Do-it-yourself copying lathe for wood. Copier for a wood lathe with a manual router Homemade copier for a wood lathe

File handles often break. A small adaptation to a wood lathe helped out the young craftsmen of school No. 1139 in the Babushkinsky district of Moscow. This is a copier for a lathe. Handles for files made on it are not inferior to ready-made ones.

The main components of a copier for a lathe are the lower and upper carriages. Both move along guides. The lower one is in the longitudinal direction, and the upper one is in the transverse direction. The carriages are firmly connected to each other. A small roller is installed on the upper carriage, which carries the main working body of the copier - the cutter.

1 - base of the device, 2 - cushion, 3 - guides of the lower carriage, 4 - squares, 5 - bushings, 6 - lower carriage, 7 - guides of the upper carriage, 8 - square, 9 - nut, 10 - square of the lower post, 11 - stand, 12 - upper stand square, 13 - copier (of two plates with a figured cutout), 14 - shaft, 15 - upper carriage, 16 - copier stand, 17 - nut, 18 - roller, 19 - nut for screw 14, 20 - flywheel, 21 - cutter nut, 22 - cutter, 23 - square, 24 - washer 60x40x5, 25 - screw M10X165x10, 26 - wing nut M10, 27 - corner of the lower carriage, 28 - lock for the nut. 29 - M6 screw (4 pcs.), 30 - M6 nuts (8 pcs.), 31 - M5 nuts (4 pcs.), 32 - M6x12 screws (4 pcs.), 33 - M5X10 screws (4 pcs.).

When the device operates, the roller moves along the copier slot as if along a guide and leads the upper carriage with the cutter. The cutter, repeating the line of movement of the roller, and therefore the line of the copier, processes the workpiece mounted on the lathe. Original and simple.
Before you start making your copier, we want to
warn you about the precision of manufacturing and assembly of both carriages. They should move easily and at the same time without play along their guides. To do this, you must maintain the tolerances indicated on the drawings.
From correct production and proper assembly depends on the success of the entire device and the quality of the finished products.
The device is installed on a wood lathe between the headstock and tailstock. It itself is attached to cushion 2, and the cushion is attached to the machine bed with a thumbscrew (parts 25 and 26).
Having square or round section the required length, pre-cut on a circular saw, you must first find the centers at their ends. The center at one end must be punched, that is, a depression must be made in it. It is needed to install the headers in the center of the tailstock. From the other end of the workpiece, use a hacksaw to make a slot in the center to a depth of 5-6 mm. With this slot you will place the workpiece on the headstock comb. The result is a permanent connection between the headstock and the workpiece.
When the workpiece is installed in the lathe, move the copier cutter by rotating the handwheel handle in right side all the way.
Turn on the machine and, tightening nut 21, feed the cutter to the workpiece. Now, when you rotate the flywheel, you will see how the cutter starts working. It will shape the pen according to the copier. And its shape can be different depending on the tool for which the handle is made. For files you need handles of one shape, for chisels - another, for awls - a third. In our device, the copier is made for a standard handle of medium files.
Once the cutter reaches the end of the headstock, push the cutter nut forward and it will cut the finished handle.
Our device, as you noticed, works from manual drive. But it is quite possible to install a reversible engine. Decide for yourself how to do this.
The processing of the handle depends on the rotation speed of the lathe spindle and on the smallest allowances on the workpiece. Therefore, depending on this, the cutter makes one, two, or even three passes over the workpiece.

S. KOKOREV
Supplement to UT 1981 No. 10

Our article is devoted to nostalgia for school labor training workshops. Many people know how to do wood turning, but not everyone can afford to buy and maintain equipment for this. Is it possible to assemble a machine with your own hands that meets technology and safety requirements? Let’s figure it out together.

What GOST says

The good news is that you don't have to reinvent the wheel. The entire assembly process and drawings of each machine module are described in TU3872-477-02077099-2002, and although this document is not publicly available, it can be obtained upon individual request. Although this is unlikely to be needed: the device of the machine is so primitive that you can easily navigate the intricacies of its manufacture even from images from school textbooks.

Another positive fact is that the STD-120M was apparently designed for on-site production, so you can either find almost all components for assembly on sale or make and modify it yourself. Naturally, if you have the opportunity to inexpensively purchase components for this machine or its younger brother TD-120, do so. Factory-produced parts are more reliable, easier to adjust, and the unified frame design allows you to assemble one machine from many donors.

Please also note that standardization of modules largely determines the safety of equipment operation. Basic principles industrial safety are announced in GOST 12.2.026.0-93, and the rules of electrical protection are set out in GOST R IEC 60204-1. Harmonize any part or machine module you manufacture with these standards.

Manufacturing of the bed

Instead of a cast iron frame, we offer a lighter welded structure. It consists of two pieces of 72-gauge angle steel, each 1250 mm long. There is a great temptation to make the bed larger to process more massive products, but remember that such changes require intervention in other components of the machine. Perhaps you should take the TT-10460 as a sample for a meter-long workpiece.

We place the corners on a flat horizontal plane with shelves facing each other. We insert calibrated inserts between them so that the frame guides are positioned strictly parallel with a distance of 45 mm. To fasten the guides, we use two corners, the same as on the frame, 190 mm each, which we place on the front and rear edges. Before welding parts, it is recommended to squeeze them with clamps so that the metal does not move when it cools.

The guides are fastened with another 190 mm jumper, in the bottom shelf of which there are cutouts for each corner. This part is installed to form a cell, the dimensions exactly corresponding to the landing pin of the headstock, in standard version this is 45x165 mm.

Such a frame can be attached in any way to a workbench or deck, but it is recommended to weld all fastening elements without compromising the integrity of the base. If a separate corner is allocated for the machine, weld pipe legs perpendicular to the corners of the frame and, for greater stability, make a small “brace” for them with a sledgehammer. Ultimately, the weight of the frame attached to the workbench should not be less than 60-70 kg.

Podruchnik

This element conditionally consists of two parts. For both, you need one type of workpiece - a 50 mm corner, inside of which another, 30 mm wide, is inserted. They are welded along the edges, in the end you should get two sections of 260 and 600 mm.

The short part is the adjustable base of the hand rest. One of the shelves is cut off, but not completely, leaving a 110 mm long section with an inclined cut. The other shelf is cut at a right angle 60 mm from the rear edge. You need to make a counter frame from a thick steel plate that will clamp the guide of the tool rest.

To make a guide with a clamp, take a regular inch pipe and make a longitudinal cut in it with a grinder. The resulting sleeve should be about 150 mm long; we insert it into a 25 mm corner, orienting the slot outward perpendicular to one of the shelves. We tighten the parts with a clamp and weld along the entire length closest to the shelf slot. Cover the workpiece with a second corner of the same length and attach it to the tube with reverse side.

The guide is welded flat to the protruding flange of the adjustment rail on its inner side. For fixation, a screw with a long handle and a nut welded to the rail are used. On the reverse side, the strike plate is fastened with a cotter pin or even a welded rod.

The hand rest is mounted on a 20 mm smooth reinforcement rod, which is located in the center with outside corner blanks. The rod fits tightly into the tube of the guide system, and when the screw is tightened, it is securely pressed on all sides. A long corner piece 600 mm long is welded to the rod with a slight inclination toward itself and a slightly “sharpened” leading edge.

Drive and transmission

The standard drive option is an asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of up to 2 kW (usually 1.2 kW), connected to the headstock shaft V-belt drive on double-strand pulleys. The bed for fastening the engine can be located between the legs of the frame, or on an additional scaffold behind the headstock, which will complicate the assembly, but will make it more convenient to transfer the belt.

It is not always possible to use the engine at the required shaft speed, so reaching the final speed is achieved by adjusting the diameter of the pulleys. For example, if you have a blood pressure at 1480 rpm, then in order to reach the coveted 1100 and 2150 rpm, the diameters of the leading and driven streams must be in a ratio of 1:1.5 and 1.3:1.

When placing the engine, it is useful to provide the frame with a plate attached to the gate canopies. An engine installed using such a system will be in a suspended state all the time and will ensure that the belt is tightly pressed by its own weight. And if you equip the platform with a pedal, the speed can be changed even on the go.

There are no problems with the electrical part either. Switching is performed by a standard three-phase starting button with reverse; for such a low-power motor there is no need to install a starter. The only thing is turning on the brakes DC while holding down the stop button, for which you will need a powerful diode bridge (on KD203D) according to standard scheme inclusions.

The frequency-controlled motor can be used as a direct drive, eliminating the need to construct the headstock. To do this, you need to fix the engine on the transition platform, in the lower part of which there is a longitudinal mounting spike 45 mm wide as a standard means of adjustment for the STD120 frame.

Headstock

Looking ahead, we note that both the front and tailstock include parts that can only be made with access to a metal lathe. Otherwise, it makes sense to think about purchasing ready-made modules, or at least their cast consoles.

At the base of the headstock there are two bearing housings of types S, V or U, permanently mounted on an angle steel frame. Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict which sizes will be available, but in general, the height of the spindle axis above the bed should be at least 120 mm. Given that the diameter of the spindle shaft is about 25 mm, the most interesting would be the standard size of the bearing unit with a total height dimension of about 70 mm.

The shaft is machined from round carbon steel with a diameter of 40 mm with a tolerance of no more than 0.05 mm. There are two main variations of the shaft. The first is the simplest: the shaft pillar remains in the center, then descents are made to the landing diameter of the bearing units, then threads are cut at the ends. For axial fixation, four grooves are machined on the shaft for retaining rings.

1 — seats for bearings; 2 — grooves for retaining rings

The second variation has an extension in the form of a skirt immediately behind the cartridge thread. It is designed to install a flanged thrust bearing mounted on the boss of the headstock base. This approach allows you to reduce bearing wear if massive parts are processed on the machine.

The base of the headstock is two pairs of corners or two channels turned towards each other. By moving the vertical shelves together, you can adjust the height of the base to the axial height of the existing bearing units. A 45 mm strip is welded to the base below, which acts as an adjustment groove. The order of assembly is important: first, bearings are pressed onto the spindle, then the shaft is mounted on a frame with a backing of adjusting steel plates.

Tailstock

Making a tailstock is much easier. It consists of four parts:

  1. The base is made from angle steel, 100mm high, using the same principle as for the headstock. Two 50 mm corners are bolted across the top; in their shelves in the center there are cutouts with squares 40 mm wide.
  2. The guide (external) thick-walled square tube is 40 mm wide, 150 mm long and has an internal clearance of 20x20 mm. In the rear part you need to install a plug 6-8 mm thick and with a hole in the center of 8 mm, it is secured with two screws through the walls of the tube.
  3. The inner tube, also known as the quill, is made from a 20 mm profile tube, preferably thick-walled and milled exactly to fit the guide clearance. An M14 nut is welded in the rear part of the quill; a metal rod, widened to 5 mm, is inserted and welded into the front part, widened to 5 mm to fit a double-row bearing.
  4. The drive screw has a thread for a nut in the quill (it is advisable to make it trapezoidal); in the rear part there is a transition to an 8 mm thread for attaching the flywheel.

The principle of operation and assembly diagram of the quill are quite obvious, but Special attention You need to pay attention to aligning the axes. The guide tube, fixed by welding in the cutouts of the corners, can rise higher or lower due to linings made of transformer steel. The headstock and tailstock must be absolutely aligned, the tolerance is only a couple of tenths.

As for the method of attachment to the bed, it is the same for both the headstocks and the tool rest. M14 or M16 studs are welded to the bottom of the headstocks, and a large plowshare bolt is inserted into the slot of the tool rest. The modules are tightened from below with nuts with rods welded to them like levers. For uniform, tight pressing from below, a 50 mm channel is placed as a counter strip.

All photos from the article

A wood turning and copying machine is a machine that is widely used in factory woodworking for replicating products of a certain configuration that corresponds to a given sample. This equipment allows you to process any parts with high accuracy and speed. However, production machines with their large dimensions will be difficult to locate in a small private workshop.

Copying equipment in woodworking

Many carpentry enthusiasts, gradually expanding their tool base and improving their skills, come to the idea of ​​assembling a wood copy lathe with their own hands. After all, with the help of this device it is possible to make an exact copy of any piece of furniture and carry out restoration work.

Note!
In most cases, of course, the main factor that encourages people to “reinvent the wheel” is the high price of a finished factory product.

The operating principle of a wood copying machine is quite simple:

  • Blank required size clamped horizontally.
  • Starting the device, forcing the workpiece to rotate around its axis.
  • In turn, the movable cutter also removes excess wood, turning the blank into a product of the desired shape.

Structurally, a copying device for a wood lathe is a whole series of parts connected to each other, so there will be a lot to work on.

Personal assembly of equipment at home

Lathe

In order to assemble a small copying machine for wood with your own hands, you will need to make some effort and patience, as well as invest financially (about 7-7.5 thousand rubles). But this is several times less than the costs that await you if you purchase a ready-made option.

A variety of equipment, including machines, can be used to work with wood. Thanks to the use of such equipment, it speeds up the process machining wooden blanks. A wood lathe with a copier is in great demand, which greatly simplifies the execution of assigned tasks: making furniture legs, door handles and balusters.

Many people decide to buy and install lathes in their own workshop because of their possible use in the manufacture of cylindrical products. There is quite a large number various models, they can be divided into several groups:

  1. Classic equipment, when the workpiece is located in a chuck or faceplate. As cutting tool a cutter is used. The workpiece can rotate at different speeds. However, the equipment is not suitable for mass production.
  2. Copying machines can be used to work from a template. By using a template, you can simplify the task of manufacturing similar products. For small-scale production, a device with manual control, as it is low cost and easy to use.
  3. Milling machines are extremely common today. This is due to the fact that they are widely used in the production of cabinet and flat parts made of wood and metal. There is also a wood turning and milling machine, which can be used to perform various operations.
  4. Models with numerical control. At mass production or in the manufacture of expensive products, equipment that has a CNC unit can be used. However, the use of a copier significantly reduces the cost of the product.

For a wood lathe, it has very attractive characteristics, due to which they began to be installed in private and other workshops.

Classic design

Industrial machines have enough complex design, especially CNC versions that can process automatically. The required product can also be obtained by using copy equipment. The classic design is represented by a combination of the following main components:

A homemade copier for a wood lathe also allows you to carry out high-quality processing blanks

DIY making

Industrial versions of machines are expensive. That is why many are considering the possibility of assembling the machine with their own hands. Recommendations for carrying out the work are as follows:

Most attention is paid to the production of the copier. This is what distinguishes a lathe from a copying machine.

Creating a copier

The copier is used to produce similar products. Due to its use, the productivity indicator is significantly increased. Among the features associated with creating a copier, the following points are noted:

The template is made of plywood and is screwed to the front surface of the beam. Upper surface previously installed timber aligned with the template axis.

Disadvantages of the device in question

Homemade copying machine There are quite a lot of significant shortcomings. An example is the following information:

That is why, in order to establish the production of complex wooden elements It is recommended to install industrial machines.

Wood cutting machine Proma DSL-1200

The model under consideration is intended for processing wooden products, which can be used as decorative elements. Distinctive feature experts call the design the presence of two incisors:

This machine model can be used to work with large workpieces. For this purpose, the structure is equipped with a structure that is mounted on rods that act as guides. The installed faceplate allows processing multi-faceted products.

Main characteristics of the model:

The disadvantage of this proposal, like many others, is the rather high cost.

Copy model CL-1201

To produce wood products, a machine model CL-1201 or CL-1500b can be used. The first version has very attractive performance characteristics:

In addition, the manufacturer paid quite a lot of attention to the degree of protection of the machine from exposure environment. For example, the engine has a protection system against overheating or overload, all electronic parts are also protected from moisture and dust.

The only but significant drawback is the high cost of the proposal. Homemade design will cost several times less.

In order to make a copier for a wood lathe, you will need the following components that will be necessary in the manufacturing process:

  • electric motor with a power of approximately 800W;
  • metal shaft with a nozzle for changing the saw blade;
  • metal profile square section, metal corners;
  • wooden sheet;
  • furniture guides;
  • metal marker;
  • fastening materials.
  • welding machine, grinder.

First you need to make metal guides.

They will allow you to move the entire copier structure in the longitudinal plane. IN in this case two metal corners are used, which are turned over with the sharp side down. The corners are welded together into pieces metal profile.

This approach allows us to provide the necessary mechanical strength and eliminate the possibility of the guides bending under the weight of the copier. In practice, any other metal profile can be suitable for the manufacture of longitudinal guides, the main thing is that its mechanical parameters allow it to carry out the assigned tasks.

In this case, to make the base of the future copier, we used wooden box and board. The board is sized to allow movement inside the box in a perpendicular plane.

For fastening and subsequent movement, ordinary furniture guides are used.

The engine is attached to the board on top. In this case the power electric motor is 800W, and the speed is 3000 rpm. Depending on your needs, you can use a motor with other parameters.

Next, the shaft should be secured to the board at such a distance that the belt drive normally connects two pulleys, one of which is located at the end of the motor shaft, and the second on the horse shafts of the saw blade. A homemade shaft with one bearing is used here.

A U-shaped structure must be made from a square metal profile. In the upper part of the U-shaped structure, a special metal holder square section. The length of the holder must be less than the length of the marker.

To secure the marker in the holder, holes are drilled on the top plate. A metal nut is welded onto each hole and a bolt is screwed into it. Two bolts will be enough for reliable fixation. The adjustable marker is very convenient when changing saw blades of different diameters.

Simply install the desired disk and use a plumb line to align the marker with the edge of the disk. The marker mount must correspond to the position of the saw blade in all planes. This allows you to simply move the marker along the prepared template to coaxially move the disk along the rotating workpiece.

The entire machine is assembled from two channels and metal corners for scabbard On which the motor is mounted, rotating wooden blank. In this case, an electric motor with a power of 1200 W is used.

Can be used as a frame old frame from some other machine. For ease of operation, it is better to place the engine on a removable metal plate, which allows you to move the structure with the workpiece, as in vertical plane, and horizontally.

The clamping head is made of four metal plates in the shape of a rectangular parallelepiped. Two nuts are welded into the end walls of the clamping head, into which a metal screw is screwed. A cone with a cartridge is installed at the end of the screw.

In cases where you need to eliminate the possibility of contamination of the surrounding space with sawdust from the operation of the machine or to minimize the percentage of contamination, you should make a hood.

The saw blade is covered with a metal casing, to which a flexible corrugated hose and a compressor unit are connected to create an air flow of a given power.

Video: making a copier for a wood lathe.

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