Cucumbers are very popular in Russia; many vegetable growers grow them. But in order to get a generous harvest of this crop, it is important to plant seeds or seedlings of cucumbers, and then care for the plants, following the necessary rules of agricultural technology. Only in this case from growing cucumbers in open ground will be able to get the maximum result. Let's look at how to do this correctly.

Although there is nothing complicated in the technology of growing cucumbers in open ground, it is necessary to take into account and follow the basic rules of agricultural technology and care of these plants.

Choosing the right variety or hybrid

Before you start growing cucumbers, you need to determine which variety or hybrid is best suited for this:

If you select a variety that is intended only for cultivation in greenhouse conditions, That good harvest will not be.
Select a zoned variety that is intended for cultivation in a specific region. In this case, it is taken into account that cucumber varieties zoned for the northern regions can be planted in the southern ones, and they will grow and bear fruit well. If you do the opposite and plant heat-loving varieties in the northern regions, then nothing good will come of it.
It is also necessary to take into account the timing of ripening: early, middle or late and whether cucumbers need pollinating insects.
When choosing a variety, it is determined for what purpose its fruits will be used. That is, will they be grown primarily for fresh food or for preservation and processing. There are also varieties whose greens can be used universally.

When choosing cucumber seeds for growing in open ground, it is necessary to take into account that hybrids, for example, have higher yields and disease resistance than varietal plants, but they have one significant drawback - seeds cannot be collected from them.

For sowing, it is advisable to choose not last year’s seed material, but one that is at least 2-3 years old. This is explained by the fact that the germination rate of cucumbers increases from 2 to 6 years, and many female flowers are formed on plants obtained from seeds that have been lying around for some time.

Choosing a place to grow and preparing the soil

Growing cucumbers in open ground beds begins with choosing suitable place, on which the bushes will grow. In order for cucumber plants to develop and bear fruit well, it must meet certain requirements.

The cucumber loves the sun, so it needs to be placed in a well-lit area, but it is better to choose a place where the plants will be protected from direct rays during the day. It is also important that the beds are not blown through by strong cold winds and drafts.

Despite the fact that cucumbers are humid tropical plants, they do not like stagnation of water in the soil: in waterlogged soil, their roots are often affected by fungal diseases, the leaves become pale green, the development of the plants themselves and the formation of the ovary slows down. Therefore, you need to choose a plot for cucumbers on a level place, not located in a low-lying area, so that water does not accumulate in the ground.

It is also important what plants grew in this area before. The best predecessors for cucumber culture are early and cauliflower, legumes, nightshades, carrots, beets, green crops and green manure. Not suitable pumpkin crops and the cucumbers themselves.

The soil in the selected area should be fertile, well-groomed, light, well absorb moisture and allow it to pass into the lower layers. It needs to be well fertilized with mineral fertilizers or organic matter. It is best to use cow manure (humus) as fertilizer. It is applied in a volume of 4-6 kg per 1 sq. m for the previous crop and before sowing - in the form of slurry (1 to 10). Chicken manure is also suitable, diluted in a ratio of 1 to 20. Acidic soil must be deoxidized: add chalk, dolomite flour or lime in the required amount.

At autumn preparation beds for growing cucumber crops, the soil is cleaned of all plant debris that may be of interest to pests and pathogens overwintering on them. The soil, cleared of plant debris, is dug deep (at least 25 cm). Clods of earth are broken up only in the spring. During the spring preparation of the site, the soil is dug up again, spilled with potassium permanganate and fertilized with ready-made mineral fertilizers.

Growing by seedlings

The seedling method of growing cucumbers is used to obtain more early harvest greens due to the fact that they are planted in the beds already grown. This ultimately allows not only to reduce the time before harvesting, but also to protect plants from possible death from spring cold snaps.

Seedlings begin to be grown approximately 1 month before they are transplanted into the ground. Seeds are sown in individual containers: disposable cups, seedling pots, cassettes, peat tablets. The substrate for cucumbers can be purchased ready-made at a vegetable growing store or made independently from a mixture made up of 2 parts of fertile garden soil, coarse sand, peat, humus, and mineral fertilizers. 1 piece is sown in each cup to a depth of 2 cm. seeds, water and sprinkle on top thin layer land. The containers are covered with film and placed in a warm and bright place. After the seeds have sprouted, the film is removed and the cups are transferred to the brightest place in the room, for example, on a windowsill, since at this time the seedlings need intense sunlight.

Caring for cucumber seedlings is simple: they are watered clean warm water(as the top layer of soil dries out), feed with mineral or organic fertilizers (after the plants have 3-4 leaves). During the growth period, cucumber seedlings need good lighting, so if they are grown in early spring, with a short daylight hours, it is illuminated with phytolamps.

A peculiarity of growing cucumbers in this way is that the seedlings need to be hardened off shortly before planting them in open ground, since a sharp change in temperature can lead to the death of the plants. In the northern regions, it is possible to arrange for this crop warm beds, on them delicate cucumber plants will be well protected from cold weather.

Seedlings should be planted in the garden after the weather completely warms up. The planting pattern will be different: it depends on the characteristics of the variety or hybrid.

Using approximately the same principle, you can grow seedlings in a greenhouse, and when 2-3 true leaves appear on it, transplant them into open ground.

Planting seeds in the ground

This method can be recommended to gardeners in the southern regions, where the heat sets in quickly, and therefore it is not necessary to plant cucumber seedlings. The advantage of this method over seedlings is that cucumber seeds can be sown several times during the season, which can increase the fruiting time of the crop.

In open ground, cucumber seeds are sown only in well-warmed soil (about 15°C). In cold soil they will take a long time to germinate or may not sprout at all. But there is no need to delay sowing seeds: this vegetable also does not like heat. The most desirable temperature for growth and optimal development of plants is 24-28°C. In this regard, the best time for planting cucumber seeds is approximately mid-to-late May.

The seed planting scheme depends on the characteristics of each variety, so it can vary within certain limits. The recommended distance is often indicated on commercial seed packages. Sowing depth - no more than 2 cm. There is no need to thicken the crops or sow seeds deeper: the plants may not germinate well, they will lack nutrition, lighting and air.

Features of outdoor care

In the process of growing cucumbers in a garden bed in open ground, it is important to provide them with the required conditions for normal growth and development. The complex of agrotechnical works includes mandatory watering, loosening (or mulching), fertilizing, forming bushes, and harvesting.

Watering

Cucumber is a humid tropical plant, it needs good development constant hydration is required. Moisture deficiency immediately affects the condition of plants: they grow poorly and wither. It is undesirable to water this crop with cold water, which impairs the ability of the plant root system to absorb moisture from the soil. It is best to pour water under the root, retreating about 5 cm from the stem, and not pour it from a watering can onto the plants themselves. You need to loosen the ground around the bushes carefully so as not to touch the roots. In order not to loosen the soil and injure the roots, the beds are covered with mulch made from plant materials or agrofibre.

Top dressing

Measures for caring for cucumbers in open ground include fertilizing, which provides the plants with all the nutrients they need during the growing season. Cucumbers are fed 3 times per season: 2 weeks after planting, just before flowering begins, and when cucumbers begin to enter the mass fruiting phase. For this purpose, organic or ready-made mineral fertilizers are used (they are diluted in accordance with the instructions for use). At an early stage of development, cucumbers must be provided with nitrogen, and then phosphorus and potassium, so saltpeter or slurry is added as the first feeding. In the next 2 feedings, they are fertilized with superphosphate, potassium salt or ash, which contains all these elements.

Formation

The formation of bushes of cucumber plants is considered an integral part of caring for this crop in the open ground. Its purpose is to stimulate the growth of side shoots on which female flowers will form. Formation is carried out by pinching the central stem of the plants above the 5th or 6th leaf.

Cucumber is a tasty and healthy product; you can easily prepare salads and wraps from it. But growing it is a more difficult task, which can be dealt with armed with knowledge and a little patience. As a culture, cucumber is tender, capricious plant, it requires close attention and dies in the absence of it.

First of all, in the fall you should choose a site for cucumbers where they will be planted. The soil you need is light, “airy” like sandy loam or loam with a neutral Ph. If the soil is more dense, sand is added to it (half a bucket per square meter) and then dug up, increasing its looseness. But the loved ones groundwater are not suitable for the culture.

When choosing a site, they are guided by high level illumination and wind protection. Cucumbers definitely need protection from air currents, and you can do it yourself by planting corn or sunflowers near future beds. By the time the cucumbers are planted, they will reach a height of up to half a meter.

Each region has its own wind rose, so newbie summer residents can ask their neighbors where the harshest winds blow from, or draw up a picture on their own.

Predecessors for cucumbers

Cucumbers do not like to grow in the same place every year. Following the basics of crop rotation, the site for them is chosen after onions or garlic, which perfectly sanitize the soil. And also after cauliflower, white cabbage and other types of cabbage, peas, greens, alfalfa, clover. An undesirable precursor is beans, which are susceptible to some diseases common to cucumbers. All pumpkins, carrots and beets are excluded.

Autumn site preparation

Preparatory earthworks involve fertilizing and digging up the soil. But first, the garden is cleared of any remaining vegetation that may contain pest larvae. As soon as this is done, organic matter is scattered over the area of the future beds and they begin digging with a full bayonet of a shovel. There is no need to break the resulting lumps - it is important that the layer is turned over.

Vegetation collected from the garden can be burned, and then the ash can be used to feed the garden plantings.

In autumn, manure is more suitable as a fertilizer - cow or horse manure, at the choice of the gardener. It will require 2-4 buckets per square, depending on the poverty of the soil.

To deoxidize the soil, you can use dolomite flour, tuff or ash. It is not advisable to combine lime and manure at the same time, as nitrogen is lost.

Many summer residents choose humus or compost that has been prepared in advance. But one way or another, organic matter should be added in the fall, so that by spring they are processed by beneficial microorganisms and the site is prepared for planting. To neutralize fungus and pests in the soil, the area is treated with a solution copper sulfate in dilution 1 tbsp. on a bucket of water.

Among mineral fertilizers, nitrophoska is ideal for cucumbers - a completely harmless preparation consisting of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. According to the norm, 50-100 grams are applied, depending on the condition of the soil.

Preparing the site for spring planting

If the work in the garden was carried out according to plan, in the spring, as soon as the thaw sets in, the area needs to be dug up again, at the same time adding humus or compost to it. All this is properly loosened with a rake so that the fertilizer is distributed throughout the entire area. The land rests until May.

By mid-to-late May, approximately 7-10 days before planting, the selected area is once again loosened and sprouted weeds are removed. Additionally, the soil can be treated with a slightly pink solution of manganese, after which it will need to be covered with a film and allowed to bask under it for several days. The earth is ready to receive seedlings.

If no work was carried out in the garden in the fall, then in early spring humus with mineral fertilizer, and then the ground is dug deep. The application of lime is not advisable; alkaline fertilizers will work instead. After all the work, the area should rest, after which beds are formed on it.

During spring preparation, many summer residents prefer mineral fertilizers. To do this, add 10-15 grams to the soil. saltpeter, 30-45 gr. superphosphate, 20-25 g. potassium salt. Complex fertilizers are taken according to the attached instructions.

The best time to plant cucumbers

Determined by the nature of the regional climate. In general, the most favorable factor for planting cucumber seedlings in open ground is a ground temperature above 15°C. This is usually mid to late May with persistent warm days and blooming dandelions.

If there is still a risk of night frosts, the plantings should be covered with a film stretched over the arcs.

To extend the harvest season, planting cucumbers can be done at intervals until mid-June. It doesn’t make sense longer, since cucumbers need a shortened daylight hours for normal development.

The same goes for seeds. The seeds “wake up” and germinate at the same soil temperature – from 15°C. To determine how much the soil has warmed up, you need to insert a thermometer 10 cm into the ground and then follow the readings.

It is impossible to say exact planting dates, as they vary from region to region and from year to year. But, definitely, planting such a delicate crop in open ground is more suitable for the south and central zone of the country. In other regions, short, cool summers will not allow vegetables to ripen, which means greenhouses and hotbeds will be indispensable.

Planting cucumber seeds in open ground

You can plant cucumbers using seedlings and seeds. The second method is more suitable for southern areas, where spring comes earlier and the soil begins to warm up already in April. And yet, planting cucumber seeds in the garden is carried out no earlier than May, after planting the seedlings, when spring weather has finally come into its own.

The choice of method is the personal preference of each farmer. But they must take into account the type of planting material to be used: will it be hybrid varieties or collected from the harvest with your own hands and adapted to the conditions of the region. The thing is that hybrids are undoubtedly more fertile, but they are much more demanding on growing conditions, and it is more convenient to provide these conditions in a greenhouse.

Although seeds of old varieties require increased protection in the soil, they are much more adaptable to external influences environment. Moreover, these are our own, local cucumbers, the seeds of which can always be used for planting in future seasons, unlike hybrid seeds.

The disadvantage of the seed method of growing cucumbers is the late harvest and its rapid yield, after which the tops turn yellow and dry out. But if you properly prepare the site and planting material, this drawback can be slightly corrected.

Seed preparation

Dry seeds can also be planted in the ground, but it is better to let them pass full preparation to disembarkation. This is done in stages:

Seed selection

An important point that allows you to detect only high-quality seed material. To do this, stir 3 tbsp. table salt in 1 l. water where cucumber seeds are placed. Healthy, full-bodied seeds will remain at the bottom.

The rest can be safely thrown away - they will not have any sprouts.

Cucumber seeds remain valid for 10 years. But this ability reaches its maximum in 2-6 years of storage. Therefore, it is recommended to use seeds of this age for planting.

Warming up

This procedure is carried out near heating pipe within a month. The temperature in the room should be up to 28°C. You can carry out express heating in the oven at 50°C or pour warm water over the seeds at 45-50°C and leave in a thermos for half an hour. Warming makes the seeds more responsive and reduces the number of empty flowers.

Hybrid seeds do not require heating.

Disinfection

Traditionally, cucumber seeds are disinfected for half an hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, but you can use iodine solution and garlic infusion (less than a tablespoon of chopped garlic per glass of water). Disinfection protects seeds well from fungal diseases.

Stratification

This is a kind of seed hardening, which is carried out after disinfection of the seed. To do this, the seeds are placed in the refrigerator (not in the freezer) for a day and a half.

Soak

Experienced gardeners soak seeds in nutrient solutions prepared using biostimulants, such as Energen or Epin. If possible, it is better to take water for the solution from melted snow - it has a more beneficial effect on the development of the first shoots.

For soaking, take gauze soaked in the solution and folded into two or three, which is used to cover the dish. Seeds are carefully placed on top of it in one layer, after which the dish is wrapped in plastic bag. Instead of a bag, you can use a second layer of moistened gauze.

The optimal temperature for seed germination is considered to be 28-30°C. The seeds should not be allowed to dry out, but they should also not float in water. You need to leave the seeds on the dish until they hatch 3-5 mm.

Planting seeds

Cucumbers are grown in two ways: horizontally, when cucumber vines spread along the ground, and vertically, with weaving along trellises. Depending on the method, seed beds are prepared.

The choice of method depends on the size of the garden plot. Trellis are used in cases where you need to save space, as well as for growing hybrid cucumbers.

For creeping cucumbers The beds are arranged in the form of holes in two rows. The distance between the rows should be up to half a meter, between the holes - 35-40 cm, and to pass between the beds, 75-80 cm is required.

Humus or compost mixed with soil is placed in each hole, half a glass of ash is added, and soil is placed on top. The hole is watered and then the seeds are planted at an angle of 45°C with the spout up to a depth of no more than 2 cm. Deeper planting will make seedlings wait longer. There are 2-3 seeds per hole.

The fertilizers placed in the hole will begin to decompose and provide the seeds with the necessary heat for development.

When the planting work is completed, the soil is carefully moistened and covered on top with a film with holes for sprouts or newspaper, which is sprayed with water for a tighter fit to the ground. Such measures are necessary to create a favorable microclimate for vegetables. During the day, the film can be removed and returned at night until the cucumbers grow.

At vertical growing cucumber seeds are placed in holes dug 20-30 cm apart with the same distance between rows. 3-4 seeds are planted in the holes. After germination, the seedlings are thinned out, but this is done carefully - they are not pulled out of the ground, but cut with scissors so as not to injure the roots of the main plant. It is believed that with vertical sowing the crop gives a rich harvest.

Planting seedlings

Most often, farmers prefer to plant cucumber seedlings in open ground. This is due to earlier and longer fruiting of the crop, and also, often, to climatic conditions.

Seedlings are grown from seeds prepared in advance, as described above. But planting is done not in an open area, but in cups where soil with fertilizers is placed. To do this, take turf, humus and sawdust in equal proportions, fill the container, water it and plant 3-4 seeds. The glass is covered with a bag and left in a warm place. After the sprouts appear, the weakest ones are removed.

Seedlings are planted on the plot according to the same principles as seeds. To do this, dig holes, pour fertilizer into them, cover them with soil, and then plant the seedlings. A day before digging holes, the garden plot can be treated with hot water and a solution of copper sulfate to destroy fungus and pests in the soil. Peat cups with seedlings are planted in the holes without fertilizing.

Another trick for summer residents: you can fertilize the holes for planting with ground potato peelings and bread leftovers. They are collected, dried and used as fertilizer.

In the first days, young plantings should be protected from direct sunlight, and care should be taken to ensure that the soil is well moistened. Protection from wind and maintaining proper temperatures - from 15°C are required, otherwise plant growth will slow down. If the weather fails, the plantings should be hidden under film.

Video instructions for planting in open ground

How to care for cucumbers

Cucumbers are capricious, so you need to follow the following principles of caring for them:

Regular watering

Cucumbers are moisture-loving plants and without watering they die very quickly. In addition, the lack of moisture also affects the taste of the vegetable - it begins to taste bitter. But it’s also not worth flooding the culture completely. It is important to adhere to the following rules:

On dry days, water the cucumbers every day, maybe every other day, depending on the ambient temperature. In spring, twice a week is enough.
The ideal time for watering is morning and cool evening. This will help avoid burns on the leaves and reduce evaporation from the soil.
If the ground is dry, you need to pour water gradually, in stages.
The water should have a temperature of approximately 20°C. If the hose is leaking cold water, it is advisable to pour it into containers in advance, where it will warm up under the sun.
When watering, water should only fall on the ground to nourish the roots.
It is ideal to use the drip irrigation method for irrigating cucumbers.

Loosening the soil

Loosening is required for better soil aeration, which is so necessary for cucumbers. This should be done when a crust appears on the soil, which can slow down the growth of the crop. You need to loosen it carefully, since cucumbers have a superficial root system, and therefore the cultivation depth is 3-4 cm. If the soil is peaty, it is pierced with a pitchfork for permeability.

Hilling up the crop

Hilling cucumbers is not necessary, but many gardeners do this to support the plant at the base and make it more stable. Hill up before watering in the morning or evening with a bucket of fresh, fertile soil. This can be done 1-2 times per season.

Mulching the soil

Very useful for retaining moisture at the roots and preventing the formation of a soil crust. It also attracts earthworms, which increase soil fertility. Mulch mainly with PVC film and newspapers.

Feeding with fertilizers

Cucumbers are fed approximately once every 10-14 days, more often is not advisable. The main microelements that cucumbers need are nitrogen, potassium, calcium, and phosphorus. They are added in hot weather, so they are better absorbed, and during rains they accumulate in the form of nitrates. The first feeding is necessary a couple of weeks after planting, then during flowering and once during fruiting.

Feed better evening, and the ideal food is mullein or bird droppings diluted in water. Up to 6 liters are required per square meter. such a solution. You can also use mineral fertilizers, such as ammonium nitrate. You will only need 5 grams of it. for 1 l. water, after which the beds are well watered. During fruiting, potassium sulfate will be indispensable, a teaspoon of which is diluted in 0.5 liters. urea. You can add 50 gr. superphosphate.

In order for the cucumber harvest to be rich, it is necessary:

Prepare the seeds

The cucumber fruit is male and female. A cucumber that is triangular in cross-section is masculine, and a cucumber that is square is feminine. We select 2-3 tetrahedral (female) plants with good fruits - these will be our seeds - we leave them until full ripening (30-35 days), you can leave them until last day until you remove all the tops from the cucumber bed. Then remove the testes and place them on cold window sill or to another cool place where you leave them until the cucumber shell cracks.

Next, take it, cut it, take out the seeds from the middle of the fruit along with the pulp and pour it into a glass. After a couple of days, you need to rinse the seeds twice in clean water and once in a solution with soda. Dry the seeds and place them in a paper bag, label the variety and date and leave for 3 years. If these seeds are sown on next year, then a barren flower will grow.

In the spring, take seeds from a 3-year-old harvest. Before sowing, the seeds need to be warmed well. In apartments, you can put the seeds in a canvas bag and hang them on the radiator, and in a private house, put them on the stove. Soak the heated seeds in warm milk overnight - this will protect the plants from powdery mildew and fungal diseases, and will also be a good strengthening.

Soil preparation

Dig up the bed in the fall. In the middle of the bed, make a deep (40 cm) ditch, into which you place leaves from trees, healthy tops of beets, carrots, beans, peas, and cover the top with a 5-6 cm layer of soil. All this rots and by spring the bed settles.

In early spring, having dug a small ditch in the middle of the ridge, add fresh manure there (for warmth), pour it with warm water and cover it again with earth, and loosen the bed shallowly.

Planting cucumber seeds

Cucumbers can be sown in the beginning - mid-May. In order for the seeds to germinate faster, the soil must be heated to a temperature of +20 degrees. Make a deep (6-7 cm) oblong hole, pour warm water with potassium permanganate and place two seeds, nose up at an angle of 45 degrees, at a distance of 9 cm from each other. If both seeds sprout, then carefully transplant one, together with a lump of earth, to another place. Cover the seeds with a 1 cm layer of soil on top and cover the bed tightly with translucent film, the edges of which are carefully covered with soil. It should remain in the hole small space before the film, so that the plants can grow and develop well for the first two weeks. At night, on top of the film, the bed can be covered with a rug so that the seeds are warm and they germinate faster. When the shoots begin to appear, the film can be removed and placed over the shoots plastic bottles– cut off the neck and make several holes in the bottom. IN good weather The bottle can be removed for the day and closed again at night.

Seedling care

Place two wooden pegs about 2 meters high along the edges of the ridge, and stretch a rope or wire between them so that it passes over the holes. If frost suddenly hits, you can easily cover the bed with film or covering material. As the plant grows, tie a rope to it (just do not overtighten), and secure the other end to the wire. As the antennae grow, they need to be twisted around the rope. At a height of one meter, pinch the main shoot and sprinkle the side shoots with earth so that they form roots and increase the yield. Side shoots need to be pinched after 6-7 true leaves. These shoots produce female flowers and eventually produce more crops.

Plant nutrition

During the growing season, cucumbers must be fed with a solution of mullein or bird droppings diluted with water in a ratio of 1:7 or ash (200 g of ash per 10 liters of water). Fertilizing should be applied at the root every 2 weeks, try not to get it on the leaves. The plants need to be fed the first time before flowering, the last time - in mid-August. When it gets colder and the roots absorb less nutrients, you can do foliar feeding– spray the leaves of the plant with a 1% solution of complex fertilizer. This procedure will provide another wave of flowering, and therefore increase the yield.

Onion peels help well for excellent fruiting. Fill a bucket of husks with cold water, leave for two days, pour into another container, add water to make a 1:1 solution and spray the cucumbers every 10 days.

Watering

In sunny weather, cucumbers should be watered regularly with warm water. You need to water abundantly, and in hot weather every day and always under the bush, the leaves of the plant should remain dry. Since cucumbers are very light-loving, do not allow the plants to thicken; if large leaves appear, they need to be cut off in the morning so that the wound dries out during the day.

Treating cucumbers against pests

Never wait for powdery mildew and aphids to start rampaging; to do this, from about the second half of June and every 20 days, spray the cucumbers with the following mixture: dilute 5 drops of iodine and 1 liter of whey in 10 liters of warm water, stir well and spray the leaves from two sides

In order to get a rich harvest, you must observe crop rotation, and also select the right varieties of cucumbers for your climate. Hybrid varieties that are resistant to stress and disease include: Zhuravlenok F, Lastochka F, Lesha F.

For better pollination by bees in June, when the cucumber vines are already tied to the supports, plant seedlings of low-growing annual flowers that attract them, such as phlox, pinnate carnation, and low varieties of marigolds, at the beginning of the cucumber ridge. Plants will not interfere with each other.

The more often you harvest, the richer it will be. Fruit growth is at its best at night, so the best time to harvest is in the morning. Such fruits are juicier and have less bitterness. Do not leave diseased or overripe cucumbers on the plants, as they will inhibit the growth of healthy fruits. When harvesting, try not to break the vines and never tear off the tendrils - all this can injure the plant, lead to stress and reduced yield.

Preparing the soil and creating holes

If the seedlings have stretched out a little, then after planting the stem up to the cotyledon leaves can be covered with a 1:1 mixture of peat and sawdust or pure peat.It seems that in the room the plants are protected from all diseases and pests, but often gardeners face problems against of which the most powerless effective drugs. In most cases, this is a violation of the rules of agricultural technology or a lack of microelements.

KakProsto.ru

How to grow cucumbers correctly

Watering with warm, settled water will help the plant absorb moisture faster.

Mazai;
Feeding is done 5 times. The first spraying should be done in the third week of growth. 10 grams of potassium, urea, superphosphate are diluted per 10 liters of water. Add a tablespoon of sodium humate and mix it all thoroughly. The mixture for foliar feeding is already ready, then simply spray it over 1-2 acres of area. The next 4 feedings are also made with the same composition - 2 before flowering, 2 after with a frequency of 5 days. The last few sprays can be done with a different solution: dilute 1 liter of mullein and 10 grams of potassium sulfate with 10 liters of water.
It is worth considering that the row spacing of corn must be made very wide so that it does not interfere with harvesting, otherwise 30-40 days after sowing you will no longer be able to reach either the first crop or the second. Optimal width row spacing - 150 cm. In this case, the row of cucumber should go almost along the row of corn, so that the entire row spacing remains for weaving the stem and for the passage of a person.
Emelya
When planting cucumber seedlings, the plants are immediately tied to a trellis.
It’s hard to imagine a garden plot without cucumber beds. Therefore, you should definitely start planting this vegetable. So that you can start harvesting a rich harvest in the summer, you should know the rules for sowing seeds.
About a week after planting, the seedlings are tied with twine to the trellis. The twine is tied in a loose loop around the plant, as the thickness of the stem will increase with age. Once every few days, the main stem is twisted around the twine, always in the same direction.
Seedlings are planted at a distance of 50–60 cm from each other. For better lighting, it is planted in a checkerboard pattern.
Before planting seedlings, prepare the soil. Cucumber grows well in loose, fertile, organic-rich soils. If organic fertilizers (compost, manure) have not been applied since the fall, then they are applied during the spring basic tillage, up to 10–15 kg/m2.

OgorodSadovod.com

Growing cucumbers - how to get record yields at minimal cost

Selecting a variety for the garden

The most common question for many beginning gardeners is: why do the leaves of cucumbers on the windowsill turn yellow? There are several reasons, but if there are no signs of powdery mildew infection, then it may be untimely watering, stagnation of moisture in the soil (appears bad smell black flies from the pot and shallows) or lack of nitrogen.

After the first true leaf appears, the seedlings can be fed with liquid nitrogen and potassium fertilizer. It is important to ensure that water and liquid with microelements do not get on the sheet in daytime. A drop of moisture can cause a burn.

Stella.

If desired, you can buy ready-made concentrates. For example, “Ideal”, “Breadwinner”, “Gardener” - they are the most popular in the Russian Federation.Experienced gardeners grow up to 25 kg from one bush and get more than one green harvest, but how do they do it? In fact, the secret lies in proper care of vegetables. To do this, you need to learn just a few rules:
. A relatively new variety that has been on the domestic market for only a few years. During this time, it has proven itself well not only as a greenhouse plant, but also when grown in the garden, as it is resistant to diseases and produces good yields of up to 17-22 kilograms per bush with ideal care. Suitable for canning, consumption at the stage of technical ripeness, pickling. It has fairly dense flesh, crunches when bitten, and is very sweet, which is why many gardeners like it. After a week, the beds with cucumbers can be sprayed with copper oxychloride.
When you decide to plant cucumbers in your garden plot, you need to approach this matter with special responsibility. Then the maximum number of seeds will sprout, and the harvest will exceed all expectations.For beginning gardeners, shaping a cucumber often causes difficulties. But if the formation is not carried out, then impenetrable thickets will form in the greenhouse, since the plants begin to grow a large number of lateral shoots of the first and second order, which sharply reduces the yield and provokes the development of diseases.
To contents Fertilizers are also applied to the beds per 1 m2:

When you do everything correctly, follow the advice of experienced colleagues, it is difficult to understand why cucumbers start growing but don’t grow. A similar situation occurs when the temperature drops below +16 or in extreme heat. Then the plant drops its fruits or slows down their growth in order to conserve strength.

Planting cucumbers in open ground and its features

To grow cucumbers on a windowsill, you need to choose the right container. Then the plant will feel comfortable all season. Cucumber roots are located shallow from the soil surface and love to be warmed by the sun and irrigated by warm rain. A five-liter plastic bucket or pot will be enough for one plant. It’s good if its width prevails over its height.

They are photophilous and require cross-pollination, but have high yields and resistance to diseases in closed spaces.

Add the roots to the vine. Impossible? It really couldn't be easier. When the stem appears from the ground and there are already 3 pairs of leaves on it, it is necessary to do hilling - cover the vine with soil up to the first leaf, maybe a little higher. Of course, fill it with water again. Additional roots will begin to appear on the vine, which increase absorption (moisture absorption) and provide vitality to the plant. It has been proven that such plants produce 40% more yield than without hilling!
Krypton
Cucumbers need to be watered once every three days.

You need to start preparing the soil for growing cucumbers in the fall. It is necessary to contribute for every 10 sq. m. 100 kg of manure or 400 g of superphosphate and 250 g of potassium salt. In the spring, ammonium nitrate is introduced in the amount of 100-200 g. It is necessary to create small holes for cucumber seeds. It is enough to dig them to a depth of 6-8 cm. At the same time, it is important to lay a small layer of humus on their bottom, which should be slightly moistened. This will create a favorable environment for seed germination.

Secrets that will help increase your harvest

The formation of plants occurs in three stages.

The amount of water consumed depends on the phase of the plant and the weather. Before flowering, water 5–6 liters, during flowering - 8–10 liters, during fruiting - 12–18 liters per 1 m2. The temperature in the greenhouse should be 22–28 °C during the day, 17–19 °C at night (the difference between day and night temperatures should be no more than 5–7 °C).
2 teaspoons of “Agricola-5” (for pumpkin crops);
Anyone can grow cucumbers on a windowsill. The main thing: do not be afraid to make mistakes and love the work you do. And the reward for your efforts will be new knowledge and crispy cucumbers for lunch.

Even inexperienced gardeners can follow the rules for caring for cucumbers on the windowsill. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and not rely on “maybe.”

Proper agricultural technology is the key to success

Parthenocarpic hybrids - the best varieties cucumbers for planting on a windowsill, since they set fruit regardless of weather, temperature fluctuations, sunlight, have a large number of female self-pollinating inflorescences, and do not require special maintenance conditions.

There is a gardener and gardener in every person. With the arrival of the first warmth of spring, everyone is drawn to the dacha, to the village, to the garden. It’s nice to dig into fresh soil, breathe in its aroma and throw the first seeds into the garden bed. But not everyone is lucky enough to welcome spring on their own piece of land. Many city dwellers do not have time to go to the garden or have their own garden bed. This can be fixed. If it is not possible to go to the garden, then you can build it at home on the balcony or windowsill. In small homemade beds you can grow radishes, green onions, tomatoes cucumbers. The last vegetable requires special attention and worries. To get a rich harvest, you need to know how to properly grow cucumbers on the windowsill and balcony and not harm the plant. Due to inexperience, its tender sprouts can be destroyed within a few hours. But if you choose the right soil mixture, container, variety, stick to temperature regime, then the green vine will thank you with tender, crispy cucumbers.

Loosening the soil. During the first 2 weeks of vine growth, it is necessary to loosen the top layer of soil so that more oxygen reaches the roots. Just don't overdo it - the roots are close to the surface and you may disturb them. It is necessary to loosen to no more than a depth of 5 cm. The vine will braid much better and grow longer. As a result, the harvest will increase by 11-13%.

. Hybrid, released in 2012. Zelentsy have a very sweet taste, juicy, and small. They are used primarily for preservation and sale, since each fruit has an excellent presentation and best characteristics. The yield reaches 35 kg per bush for the entire season, which is almost a record figure. When grown at home, this figure will decrease significantly, but, nevertheless, the yield will certainly please you! Resistance to different types rot and spotting is high; treatment with pesticides is required only in individual cases.

Foliar feeding

Already in mid-May the first wonderful cucumbers will appear!

Seeds can be sown only when the soil temperature rises above +15°C. If you do not take this condition into account, then the cucumbers may not sprout, since they do not tolerate low temperatures. In this case, sowing must be carried out in several stages with an interval of 7-9 days. The goal of this approach is to ensure high yields. After all, if the seeds planted at the first stage die, then those that were sown later will remain. Cucumber seeds need to be planted to a depth of 4-5 cm. You can also go the other way, creating a slight slope when sowing. Then the seeds will be planted at different depths: from 2 to 6 cm. As a result, the cucumbers will sprout in any case. So, if the top layer of soil is heavily moistened, then finely located seeds will sprout, and if more water is present in the lower layer, then deeply embedded seeds will sprout. After planting, cucumbers need to be watered regularly; the soil should not be allowed to dry out and the sunrises will wither. This must be done using a watering can. Then the soil will not erode.

First.

Temperatures that are too high cause stretching and weakening of plants, while temperatures below the optimum somewhat inhibit growth without, however, affecting the normal development of plants. The temperature in the greenhouse is regulated by ventilation, which can be increased and made longer as the outside temperature rises, up to the point of opening the door all day, and then at night.

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Growing cucumbers on a windowsill: rules and secrets

2 teaspoons of superphosphate;

The best varieties of cucumbers for growing on a windowsill

To contents

Cucumbers love diffused sunlight. On the southern window, their leaves will burn from the heat, and on the western window, the stems will stretch out, most of the fruits will have a characteristic, pear-shaped shape.
The key to a rich harvest is high-quality seedlings. In order for the seeds to germinate quickly, you must follow several important rules:
If you choose the right varieties of cucumbers, you can get a harvest on your windowsill that is much richer than what your neighbor will grow in his dacha. Fans of home gardening should pay attention to the F1 group hybrids:
Pinching the stem. Have you ever pinched cucumbers? But in vain, since this is precisely the main secret that makes it possible to obtain record harvests. The technology for growing cucumbers does not provide for this procedure on an industrial scale, as it is very labor-intensive. But if you pinch the stem above the fifth leaf, a large number of side shoots will form, which will ultimately give you an excellent harvest of vegetables!

These were the most popular hybrids and varieties with which you can get a record harvest of cucumbers in your dacha. But remember that only 35% of success depends on the variety, and the rest is your task.

By investing time and effort in sowing cucumbers and caring for them, every gardener wants to receive decent harvest. But what if free space under the cucumber bed - a small “patch”?

In order for cucumbers to begin to bear fruit as soon as possible, germinate the seeds before planting. To do this, place them in one layer on a rag, which needs to be moistened from time to time. Within a few days, the seeds will sprout small sprouts and be ready for planting. They need to be lowered to a depth of 4-6 cm. It is important to place the seeds with the sprouts facing up. When preparing the beds, pay attention to the distance between them. It should be at least 40 cm. And when sowing seeds, you need to maintain a gap of 7-12 cm between them. To speed up the growth of cucumbers, after planting them, you should cover the beds with a layer of plastic film. It should be left for 2-3 days. After which it is necessary to remove the film and moisten the soil. After 3-4 days, shoots will appear.
All buds and shoots are removed from the axils of the first 3–5 true leaves (the so-called “blinding”). If this is not done, then ovaries will form in the axils of the first leaves, which will hinder the development of the plant itself, and as a result, the overall yield will decrease.
Small ventilation should be carried out even on cloudy days to avoid too high air humidity, which, together with low temperatures, can provoke plant disease.

2 tbsp. spoons wood ash;

Seeds for seedlings are sown 30 days before planting in the greenhouse. Sow in pots with a diameter of 10x10 cm, placed tightly to each other, after which they are covered with plastic wrap and the temperature is maintained at 25–27 °C.

The main rules for healthy cucumber seedlings

It is better to water the plants after sunset or in cloudy weather at the root, along the edges of the pot.

The soil for sowing should always be sterilized. You should not trust store-bought mixtures: they can be contaminated with bacteria and pests. The soil should have good air permeability and absorb moisture. It is good if the soil does not contain many microelements. At this stage, the plant does not need them in large quantities. A mixture of peat and river sand is best suited for sowing cucumbers.
Natasha F1;
By doing these simple recommendations, you can increase the number of cucumbers collected by more than one and a half times. For example, you can treat 2 bushes planted at the same time differently, and you will soon see how caring for the vine can increase the number of cucumbers harvested!
First of all, you need to decide what row spacing you will have. They can be made small, about 50 cm, but then a mandatory garter and careful care of the vine are required. It is worth considering that the vegetative growth of the vine is quite fast and in just a few weeks it can grow to 5 or more meters. It is best to plant at a distance of 80-90 centimeters between rows.
The yield of cucumbers, depending on the variety and growing conditions, can reach 500-800 kg per hundred square meters. Excellent results, but not the limit. How do you like the idea of getting more than 1 harvest per year?
Delicious, aromatic, crispy cucumber - everyone loves it! Moreover, cucumber is good in any form, fresh, salted, or pickled. That is why anyone who has at least a little free land will definitely organize a garden bed with cucumbers. Perhaps this is why there are so many different tips on how to properly grow cucumbers, and each tip has its own story. Every housewife has her own favorite varieties and her own planting and care techniques. And those who want to enjoy early cucumbers, without overpaying a lot of money in the markets, and without the risk of being poisoned by pesticides, try to grow them themselves.
Second.
When growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, 5–6 fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers is carried out over the summer.

2 kg of universal ready-made soil nutrient mixture “Exo” or a special nutrient mixture for cucumbers or pumpkin crops.

Dishes for planting cucumbers

After the first shoots appear, the film is removed. Water with warm water (25–28 °C). As they grow, the seedlings are arranged so that the plants do not touch each other with leaves (about 40 pieces per 1 m2), which will prevent them from being pulled out. The night temperature is maintained at 18–20 °C, the daytime temperature at 21–23 °C, and the relative air humidity at 70–75%.

Rules of care

The soil for adult plants can be similar to that used for sowing seeds, with the addition of potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen fertilizers, wood ash. When landing on permanent place, drainage should be constructed. If you don’t have expanded clay on hand, you can use regular pebbles or break regular foam into small pieces.

You cannot plant freshly harvested cucumber seeds. In such plants, male flowers predominate and do not set fruit. Five-year-old seeds produce the largest number of female inflorescences.
Marinda F1;
Growing cucumbers in the ground is a rather labor-intensive process, especially if you want to get a yield above the average, and you won’t succeed if you don’t properly divide the soil. First of all, it’s worth noting that mulching the soil with decomposed manure, peat and organic matter allows you to get more yield, but only if you do this 1-1.5 years before planting.
The planting process is quite simple and there is no need to invent anything extra - just dig a shallow trench (10-14 cm) and put the seeds there. Fill the trench and water it abundantly so that the soil is saturated with moisture and the seeds can germinate easily. You can also apply fertilizers, but their effectiveness is extremely questionable at the stage of seed germination. It is best to use foliar fertilizers before flowering or apply compost in advance. But this must be done at least 5-6 months before planting, since cucumbers can simply burn from a high concentration of fertilizers.
Most popular varieties are intended only for greenhouse cultivation and in open ground they cannot please the gardener with good yields. What varieties and hybrids should you choose in order to ultimately get record numbers when growing cucumbers in open ground?
How to get early cucumbers
Remove side shoots on the main stem. As a rule, all side shoots are removed to a height of 0.5 m; at an interval of 0.5–1 m, leave 1 leaf on the side shoots; at an interval of 1–1.5 m - 2 sheets; further, to the trellis, leave 3 sheets.

The first feeding is carried out before flowering: dilute 2 tbsp per 10 liters of water. spoons liquid fertilizer Agricola Forward. At the beginning of flowering, the plants are fed with the following solution: 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate, urea, superphosphate and 2 tbsp are diluted per 10 liters of water. spoons of organic fertilizer "Effecton-O".

Problems during cultivation

All fertilizers are scattered evenly and embedded with an iron rake to a depth of 10–12 cm.

The rate of watering depends on the growth phase and ambient temperature. To ensure a good supply of water to plants, it is necessary to irrigate in such a way that the water reaches the depth of the roots. If the depth of the roots, for example, of cucumber seedlings is 3 cm, then water 3 liters of water per 1 m2. During fruiting, the roots penetrate 15–18 cm deep; naturally, water from 15 to 18 liters of water per 1 m2.

After the fifth leaf appears, the plant needs support. You can stretch a special mesh along the window or tie the lashes with ropes. The trellis net on the windowsill looks aesthetically pleasing and is a good support during fruiting.

Seeds covered with a special multi-colored shell germinate much later and require constant moisture. If the soil is too dry or underwatered, the plant may die while still in the soil.

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Cucumbers in the greenhouse: from seedlings to harvest. Which is correct? Growing seedlings

Masha F1;

Sowing seedlings and caring for them

The second point of agricultural technology is harvesting. You shouldn’t keep cucumbers on the vine and wait until they “ripe.” They must be collected at the first opportunity, avoiding their yellowing. The sooner you collect them, the more new ones will be formed - this is worth remembering once and for all. At the same time, you should not damage the vine, because if you step on it, it will begin to supply less organic substances and minerals to the fruits, and they will not develop properly.

Joint sowing is encouraged. Moreover, it will be very useful for the vegetable, especially if corn is adjacent to it. Let's take a closer look at all the advantages of this planting method:

Crispina

First (preferably in the fall), the soil intended for cucumber beds is fertilized: using compost, potassium chloride and superphosphate. Then she carefully digs up, no less than a shovel's bayonet.

Third.
During fruiting, cucumbers are fed 4 times. For the first feeding, dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid fertilizer "Agricola Vegeta" and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of “Agricola for cucumbers, zucchini, squash”, using 5 liters of solution per 1 m2, or 2 tbsp. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Effecton-O" and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska, spending 5 liters per 1 m2.

Then the ridges are watered with a solution of the growth stimulator “Energen”. To do this, take 1 capsule, dilute it in 10 liters of warm water (50 °C), stir well and water it over the surface of the bed, using a solution of 2-3 liters per 1 m2. Even a small dose of Energen that gets into the soil leads to the formation of a large amount of humus, thereby significantly increasing soil fertility.

Growing cucumber seedlings are fed every 8–10 days. For this purpose, the following solutions are used:

Preparing the soil and planting cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse

In the summer itself big problem When growing cucumbers on a windowsill, there is heat: the percentage of humidity indoors and outdoors decreases, the earthen mixture dries out quickly even with frequent watering. Mulching the soil in pots will help protect the root system from overheating and retain water. Chopped bark, straw, sphagnum moss, sawdust, and fresh grass are suitable for mulch.

Seedlings are best grown in small cups or peat tablets, and after the appearance of the third true leaf, transplant it into a large container.

Fontanelle F1.
Watering should be almost constant. In summer, water once in the evening, once in the early morning, or leave the spinner overnight. You can’t water it during the day - the leaves will immediately burn. Powdery mildew – main enemy cucumber if the summer turns out to be cool. To avoid becoming a “victim” of powdery mildew, you need to do drip irrigation, or just let water go right to the root so that it doesn’t get on the stem
Corn will protect the cucumbers from the wind and sun, which will immediately affect their yield and speed of development.
. An early ripening hybrid, which is not so common in Russian Federation and many neighboring countries, but is included in the register of crops that are recommended for industrial cultivation. Over the past 25 years, it has remained virtually unchanged and has not been improved; it is perfectly acclimatized in middle lane and withstands high temperatures and periods of drought well. Suitable not only for consumption raw, but also for pickling and salting. Productivity reaches 650 c/ha in one season; it is grown mainly in open ground, but is also suitable for greenhouses. Up to 4-5 greens hang on 1 node of the bush, due to which up to 25 kg of products can be collected from one square meter throughout the season.

There is a lot of debate about how to properly grow cucumber seedlings. But everyone agrees that growing cucumber seedlings in separate cups allows you to preserve the delicate root system when transplanting plants into the ground.

All side shoots of the second order are pinched onto 1 leaf.

The next feeding is carried out after 7–8 days: dilute 0.5 liters of mullein with 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water at the rate of 5–6 liters per 1 m2 or root growth stimulator “Kornerost” 2 tablets per 10 liters of water and 1 teaspoon of urea.

As soon as the ridges are ready, two rows of wire are pulled along each of them at a height of 1.5–2 m, at a distance of 20–30 cm at the top.

add 2 tbsp to 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Agricola Vegeta" or "Agricola Forward", spending from 2 to 3 liters per 1 m2 or 0.5 cups per pot;

The optimal temperature for germination is 22 degrees with high air humidity. To achieve a similar effect, you need to spray the room three times a day, or keep a damp cloth under the cups with seedlings.

The last variety can easily be called a cucumber masterpiece of Moldovan breeders. For several decades, it has successfully pleased its owners with generous fruiting and resistance to diseases.

Watering and fertilizing

The best predecessors for cucumbers are legumes, as they form a large amount of nitrogen macromolecules in the soil during their growth period. Thus, all that remains is to add ammonia and phosphorus fertilizers and you will have everything you need to expect a large harvest of cucumbers. Potatoes, corn, seeds, watermelon, melon and cucumbers themselves are bad predecessors. After them, you need to give the soil a rest or plant beans, for example.

It will serve as a kind of support and the cucumbers can curl along it. This will make caring for them much easier.

Zozulya F1

In mid-March, 1-2 seeds are planted in individual pots with nutritious soil to a depth of 1 cm.

The general rule of formation: the higher the plant, the more shoots and fruits are left on it. Over time, the main stem is thrown over the trellis and pinched, leaving 40–60 cm. As a rule, this is where the formation of the cucumber ends.

The third feeding is repeated after 8 days: dilute 2 tbsp per 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid universal fertilizer "Rossa" and 1 tbsp. spoon "Agricola-5" (for cucumbers), using 5-6 liters of solution per 1 m2.

When planting seedlings in a permanent place, the plants should have 5–6 true leaves, 1–2 tendrils, a thick stem and a well-developed root system.

The second solution is prepared from mineral organic fertilizers: add 1 capsule of Kornerost root growth stimulator and 1 tbsp to 10 liters of water. spoon full mineral fertilizer“Kemira-lux”, consuming 2 liters of solution per 1 m2. Or add 1 teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate, superphosphate, Agricola-5 to 10 liters of water. Consumption - from 3 to 4 liters per 1 m2.

Proper care and cultivation of cucumbers is not only timely watering, high-quality soil, fertilizers, but also regular harvesting. In order for the plant to bear fruit at full strength, it is necessary to collect greens every day. Then he will have the strength to abundant flowering and setting new fruits.

After the first shoots appear, it is necessary to slightly lower the room temperature, humidity, and increase the amount of sunlight.

Garter and shaping cucumbers in a greenhouse

From the usual varieties for indoor growing cucumbers are suitable:

Cucumbers in open ground need foliar feeding, which will help to significantly increase the vegetative mass and, subsequently, the yield. Do not confuse foliar feeding and soil fertilization - these are different concepts. Unlike conventional fertilizers, in this case the plants are sprayed with a solution of urea, potassium, iron and other macroelements. They fall on the leaves and are immediately absorbed by the plant, stimulating its growth and fruit formation. The effect is visible within a few days - the leaves become greener, the stem begins to grow, and the fruits begin to ripen.

The shade will retain moisture, and the earth will not crack.

- a variety of Volgograd selection, acclimatized in almost all regions of Russia, is industrial and is successfully exported abroad. Productivity reaches 400 c/ha or up to 10-15 kg per bush under conditions home grown. Its advantage is excellent resistance to weather conditions, it feels good in the heat (you still have to water it), grows in the sun and in the shade. Pinching of side shoots is not required, it is quite resistant to olive spot, insect pests and many pests characteristic of these vegetables. At the age of 20 days, you can plant cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse; you need to water the plants at the roots with warm water (about 20 degrees) .

During the weekly formation of plants, all diseased or yellowed leaves are also removed. All trimming is carried out in the first half of the day so that the wounds dry out by night. The last dressing can be prepared from green herbs (plantain, chickweed (woodlice), nettle, quinoa): chop and pour 1 kg of this mass into 12 liters hot water, stir well, leave for a day or more, then strain and water at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m2.

Before planting seedlings, moisturizing watering is carried out, holes are made with a depth corresponding to the size of the pot, and watered with a solution of organic fertilizer “Effekton-O”, 3 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of warm (30 °C) water, spending 1 liter per well. The seedlings are planted vertically, filling only the soil pot. The first fertilizing is done in the phase of 2 true leaves. The second - in phase 3–4. Feedings alternate.

To prevent young shoots from stretching, illumination with a fluorescent lamp is necessary. The help of lamps is also necessary before planting buds on cloudy days (hybrids can do without lighting).

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