The compressor can be used in a wide variety of applications - for inflation of tires, airbrushing, painting of spare parts etc. Possessing necessary tools and certain technical knowledge, it is quite possible to independently manufacture this unit based on a conventional refrigerator.
Homemade compressor gives about 7 atmospheres, which is quite enough for an ordinary garage workshop, so many are increasingly thinking about how to make such a compressor? DIY refrigerator compressor it will turn out to be quite quiet and, most importantly, cheap in terms of cost.
On average, the production of this unit will require about one thousand rubles for all components.
Which is better - a homemade option or a professional device?
Before trying to make our compressor out of an old refrigerator, it is necessary to compare these two options, i.e. a ready-made compressor sold in specialized stores, and our homemade version. Total can be identified several main differences between them:
- The design of the factory compressor contains an electric motor that transmits torque to the working chamber through a belt drive. As for the homemade compressor, it consists of a housing and the engine itself, without belts.
- The factory version already has automatic pressure relief systems, inlet and outlet filters, pressure meters, etc. installed. In a compressor from a refrigerator, you will have to install the control equipment yourself, taking into account all the features.
- Although most factory compressors are equipped automatic systems, In some budget models this feature is not implemented. In other words, these units will have to be turned off independently, noting the time on the clock. Homemade compressors are mainly equipped with a protective relay that turns off the engine if there is a risk of overheating.
- Some factory models may not have any lubrication at all. Of course, their service life is short, but they do not emit various emissions. This circumstance is very important, especially if the spray gun behaves rather capriciously, not tolerating various impurities. As for homemade compressors, there is plenty of this oil. By the way, you need to pay attention to what kind of oil you pour in - synthetic oil does not combine very well with regular oil, so you don’t need to pour in just anything.
- The main feature of a homemade compressor is that it works very quietly, especially if you put all the tubes on it correctly, maintaining a tight seal. As for factory compressors, they are noisier, so their use is only possible outside the home.
- The cost of manufacturing a homemade compressor is very low, because we take the main components from old equipment, and the control equipment will cost us one thousand rubles. As for the factory compressor, the situation is different.
- It is impossible to make any technical changes to the factory compressor. In other words, if the unit is not powerful enough, then it can only be used as a tire inflator, nothing more. Homemade options The good thing is that you can add some parts to them, for example, a large receiver, thanks to which you can significantly increase the power of the device.
- A factory compressor is a complete technical device, so any improvisation with it is impossible. With a homemade unit, you can do almost anything - take some parts outside the body, or hide everything in one box and attach a handle on top for easy transportation.
- You can install a fan on a homemade compressor to cool the device from the outside.
Read also: Review of valve control cabinets
Most refrigeration compressors have some limitations in terms of their work. There are several modes in total:
- Normal - from 16 to 32 C.
- Subnormal - from 10 to 32 C.
- Tropical - from 18 to 43 C.
- Subtropical - from 18 to 38 C.
However, combined modes are more common, having a different range.
Thus, a homemade compressor can be much more efficient than factory ones, in terms of working with air.
The video shows a version of a homemade compressor for inflating wheels
Dismantling works
To make a homemade compressor from a refrigerator, you need to make initial preparations. It consists of certain dismantling works, i.e.
We simply need to remove the compressor from the refrigerator itself. It is located at the back of the refrigerator, in the lower part.
To remove it, we need a basic set of tools: pliers, spanners and two screwdrivers (positive and negative).
On the compressor there are tubes that are connected to the cooling system. These tubes must be bitten off using pliers, but under no circumstances should they be sawed off with a hacksaw. The fact is that with this method, small chips inevitably form, which can get inside the compensator.
Then we move on to removing the start relay - it is an ordinary black box with wires sticking out of it. We unscrew the fasteners, then cut the wires that lead to the plug. We must remember to mark the top and bottom of the starting relay - this will be useful to us in the future. By the way, we also take all fastening elements along with the unit itself.
Functionality check
After we have removed the compressor, it is necessary check its functionality.
The fact is that we are removing the device from an old refrigerator, so we need to make sure that our unit is still “alive”.
So, we flatten the tubes with pliers - this is necessary so that air flow passes through them. Next, we need to put the start relay in the position in which it was in the refrigerator design.
This is very important, because if the position is incorrect, there is a risk of damage to the device, as well as failure of the compressor winding.
Read also: Review of voltage stabilizers Leader
There are wires on the relay body to which you need to screw a piece of wire with a plug. It is better to wrap the connection point with electrical tape to eliminate the risk of electric shock. We plug the device into a power outlet. If you did everything correctly, the compressor will work, and air will flow from its tubes. By the way, it is necessary to mark which tube the air flow comes out of and which one it goes into.
Step-by-step instruction
Before you start making your own, you need to make sure you have everything necessary materials and tools.
We invite you to watch a video with a detailed description of the process of one of the manufacturing options
In addition to the compressor itself, which we previously removed from the refrigerator, we will need:
- Receiver. IN in this case, you can use the body of an old fire extinguisher, or weld the body from sheet metal and pipes.
- Various hoses. In this case, the length of one hose must be at least 600 mm, and the other two - about 100 mm. In this case, you can take hoses from the car.
- Various consumables - gasoline and diesel filters, wire, clamps, pressure gauge and epoxy.
- Related tools, i.e. screwdrivers, pliers, drills, etc.
- In addition, we need the usual wooden plank, which will be the basis of the entire structure. We attach the compressor to it using ordinary self-tapping screws. The fastening should be carried out exactly in the same position that it occupied in the refrigerator design.
We take any plastic container of suitable volume (from 3 liters or more). In the upper part you need to drill a couple of holes to fit the size of the outlet tubes.
We insert the tubes, and then fill everything with epoxy resin. The inlet tube into which the air enters must be located in such a way that there is about 200 mm from its end to the bottom of the receiver.
The outlet tube should be immersed ten centimeters inside.
This is a description of a plastic receiver, but for greater tightness it is best to make the receiver in an iron case. In this case, there is no need to fill everything with resin, and the hoses are simply welded. In addition, only an iron receiver can install a pressure gauge.
To install it, you need to drill a hole for the nut on the receiver body. We insert it, and then brew it. Only then do we screw the pressure gauge into this nut, after which the work is completed. Now we attach the receiver to our base using wire. The scheme will be something like this:
Our homemade unit is almost ready.
There are quite a lot of photos and videos of its work on the Internet, for example, it is shown how it is used in airbrushing and for painting various spare parts, so the feasibility of its manufacture is quite obvious. Finally, we need to add a few additional touches to our device.
Read also: Let's do it semi-automatic welding with your own hands
You need to take one of the hoses, which is ten centimeters long, and put it on the filter. If this is difficult, you can slightly heat the end of the hose to make it easier to fit onto the fitting. We put the second end of the hose on the inlet of our device. In this case, the filter will protect against dust from entering the housing.
The second 10-centimeter hose needs to connect the inlet of the receiver and the outlet of the compressor. In this case, it is better to tighten the connection points with clamps. Our third hose needs to be put on the diesel filter, and the other end must be inserted into the outlet of the receiver.
At the same time, the free filter fitting will subsequently be connected to various equipment for airbrushing, a spray gun for painting, etc.
Another video on the topic
Some technical data and service features
It is quite difficult to say unambiguously what pressure a particular compressor will show. Much depends on the specific brand and service life of the device itself. By the way, old units show even better performance than modern ones.
Maintenance of our homemade device is a very important point in operation.
The main work will consist of replacing diesel and gasoline filters, as well as changing the oil in the device. The design of compressors usually contains three copper tubes.
We used two of them earlier, and the third remained untouched. It is the shortest and sealed at the end. So, the oil is drained through it.
To do this, it is necessary to cut off the sealed part, and then drain the treatment. Filling is done through it.
Does the compressor need to be repaired?
As for repairing the resulting device, then everyone decides for themselves here- whether it makes sense to tinker with this or not.
The repair will consist of ringing the relay, as well as changing the oil in the device.
If the manipulations carried out did not help, then there is absolutely no need to come up with something else. It is best to throw away the used device and then make a new one. Moreover, the price of the issue is no more than 1000-1500 rubles.
Conclusion
Basically, we figured out how to make a compressor from a refrigerator.
The feasibility of its manufacture can hardly be overestimated, because with the help of this device you can carry out various works on airbrushing, inflating tires, painting various components and other work that requires pressure force.
An additional advantage is that such a device can be used at home, because it makes little noise. In fact, this is the same refrigerator, only without unnecessary body parts.
DIY Compressor From a Chainsaw
Chainsaw sawmill. How to make a sawmill from chainsaws with their own hands
Wood is perhaps the most common building material today. Long gone are the days when the process of building a house was carried out using the simplest tools.
At the moment, to perform this kind of work, new technologies and the most modern equipment are used, including a sawmill, with the help of which wood is processed to suitable sizes. Unfortunately, this tool is not easily accessible to ordinary Russians, because it costs hundreds of thousands of rubles.
But there is a way out of this situation - constructing a homemade sawmill. You will find out how this happens in our current article.
Why is it more profitable to make a sawmill from a chainsaw?
In general chainsaw- this is a unique device, because on its basis you can make virtually any tool, from a homemade lawn mower to snowmobiles. In our case, the introduction of this device allows us to design a suitable element practically without the use of any additional details and units.
Judge for yourself - we already have the engine, along with the gas tank, the frame is also there, and even the chain remains in working order. We will not change or re-equip any of the above. The only thing we will need to make is an iron canopy that will be attached to the saw body.
You can see the approximate design of such a device in the following photo.
You see, homemade chainsaw sawmills are actually no different from a real saw. In other words, the effort and foreign exchange costs required to complete this operation are small. This is the whole advantage of using this tool as a sawmill.
How to make a sawmill from a chainsaw?
To create such a device, you need to have two channels measuring 150...180 x 8000 mm (height and length, respectively).
Apart from this, you will need several 50 x 100 mm corners and two rails for your work. The latter must be turned upside down.
When developing a base for a sawmill, you should drill several holes of 14-18 mm each in it. The interval between them should be approximately 1-1.2 meters.
You will also need zip ties for your work. They can be made from ordinary water pipe 250 mm long. Bolts should be used as connecting parts rather than welding. Racks are made from rectangles, onto which the sawmill base is then attached.
By the way, it is unacceptable to use deformed elements when making the base. All parts must have a strictly even shape. As for the distance between the posts, they should be placed to the end of the base with an interval of 80-100 cm.
Additionally, you can weld braces between them to make the structure seem stronger.
Super compressor 3
ICE from friendship, head from Chinese compressor, motor from Honda starter 1 kW.
Compressor| Inflating tires with a chainsaw
DIY compressor.
What to do next?
At the next stage, the chainsaw sawmill is equipped with a movable trolley. It will be based on a steel plate measuring 600 x 50 millimeters. It should be welded to it from below metal corner 40 x 40 millimeters. Then the cart needs to be placed on bearings or rollers. Also weld 2 corners to its upper part. It attaches itself to the latter chainsaw.
At the final stage, a structure is made to fix the log. What do I need to do? Here you will need a metal tube with a diameter of 35-40 millimeters.
Also during the work it is necessary to use a movable hose, which will be located and then secured to required height. In this case, the height value should not exceed the length of the pipe itself.
So, our homemade sawmill with your own hands successfully done. You can safely start using it and process wood of almost any diameter.
How to make a sawmill from a chainsaw? Method number 2
Here is another method for making a sawmill at home. In principle, this option for creating a cutting device is not much different from the previous one - the drawing and tools for work will be the same as in the first case. However, this sawmill manufacturing technology will be more refined.
How to make a sawmill from chainsaws with their own hands in this case? On the drawing you will need to indicate 4 main elements. This is a saw, its drive, a mechanism by which the thickness of the resulting board is adjusted, as well as an element that allows you to move the saw part of the structure.
You should also indicate the layout of the device for fixing the log.
How is the saw and its drive made?
There is nothing complicated here. Since the sawmill is made from a chainsaw, all these elements, including the motor, will already be ready. Therefore, all that is required of you is a working saw with cutting teeth and a working engine, which, in principle, is present in the design of this tool.
Now let's talk about how to make a mechanism for adjusting the thickness of the board.
The actual sawing of a log on a sawmill occurs by lowering or raising the base of the device, which is held on by 4 screws or welded to the plate with nuts whose edges are bent.
There is a lock nut at the top of the base. It is tightened after the chainsaw sawmill has been set up. Adjust to the appropriate thickness of the log being processed.
In this case, a distance of 50-55 centimeters must be maintained between these elements. 2 rollers are welded to each stand, the top of which rests on the guide angle, and the bottom one keeps the sawmill from lifting.
If it is not possible to use rollers, you can use 20 mm bearings.
A device that fixes a log on a sawmill
The wood on this tool is secured using two combs, one of which moves with a screw, and the second remains stationary.
After installing the log, the first movable element is secured in a stationary state using several screws.
After installing the fixing device, you can safely start operating the sawmill and process the first wooden pieces.
And finally
Let us note a few rules for operating a homemade sawmill:
DIY vacuum pump from a compressor from a refrigerator
The branded vacuum pump is, without a doubt, effective and extremely easy to use. But he has one small drawback: several numbers on the price tag and not a single comma between them.
This unpleasant circumstance prompts folk craftsmen to look for ways to independently manufacture this device from what they say is God sent.
Having learned how to make a vacuum pump from a compressor from a refrigerator, you may want to try your hand, eventually receiving a reward for your work in the form of saved money.
Materials and tools
During the work, the DIY master will need the following:
- hacksaw for metal;
- pliers;
- soldering iron;
- welding machine.
In addition to the compressor from the refrigerator, you will need to get:
- oil-resistant tubes (can be bought at the car market);
- brass foil;
- a piece of linoleum.
You will also need a steel corner 25x25 mm.
DIY vacuum pump from a refrigerator compressor
The manufacturing process is as follows:
When the compressor operates, some oil is invariably lost in the form of oil mist released into the discharge line. The easiest way to monitor its quantity is to use a tubular level gauge - a transparent tube located outside, which communicates with the container via a hose. The body of a ballpoint pen can be used as such a tube.
Refrigerator motor compressor
The top should be covered from dust with a cap, but so that air can flow freely into the closed hole. To make the level gauge more convenient to use, you need to scratch two horizontal marks on it, corresponding to the minimum and maximum levels oils
It is better to seal the place where the hose is attached to the tube using sealant.
The manufactured structure should be placed in a box, the frame of which can be made of a steel equal-flange angle with a shelf width of 25 mm. Any sheet material can be suitable for the role of cladding.
So that the vacuum pump does not have to be removed from the box to take readings from the oil level gauge, you can install a door with some simple latch in the side wall of the latter.
Further actions:
When the pump-compressor engine starts, there should be no overpressure. This requirement is due to the characteristics of the starting circuit.
When starting, the current arising in the working winding turns on the electromagnet in the starting relay, which attracts the core with contacts. The contacts close, supplying current to the starting winding.
In normal mode, the engine should spin up quickly, as a result of which the current in the working winding will drop and the electromagnet will “release” the core, opening the starting winding circuit.
If the engine, when trying to spin up, encounters resistance in the form of pressure in the discharge line, the starting winding will be under load for too long and will eventually burn out.
To prevent this phenomenon, it is recommended to install a check valve on the discharge line, and in front of it - an electro-pneumatic valve. The latter must be included in the motor circuit: when the unit is not running, it will be open, and when the engine is turned on, it will close.
Homemade vacuum pump
If the compressor will be used, for example, only for purging, such precautions are not necessary. But if a receiver or some other device that accumulates pressure is supposed to be connected to it, then a check valve with an electro-pneumatic valve must be installed.
This point should also be taken into account: when the electromagnet in the starting relay is turned off, the core falls under its own weight, so installing it upside down or on its side is not allowed.
All that remains is to connect the electricity through the fuse - and the vacuum pump is ready.
Exploitation
It is most convenient to place a homemade vacuum pump under the table, so that only the suction and discharge tubes from it lie on the table.
With this placement, it is advisable to integrate a pedal into the electrical circuit of the unit, pressing which will turn it on. It is also better to place the vacuum pressure gauge on the table.
Since, if the vacuum pump is placed under a table due to lack of light, it is not very convenient to use an oil level gauge, you can additionally equip the device with backlighting.
Using a homemade vacuum pump, you can not only pump out air from food storage containers, but also make various products from two-component silicone rubber by vacuuming. However, it should be taken into account that this unit will not cope with too thick material, for example, Viksint.
Video on the topic
Do-it-yourself compressor - with minimal costs from scrap metal
The benefits of a compressor when performing various tasks in a workshop or garage are undeniable. This unit has long ceased to be the property of construction crews and departmental vehicle fleets.
Here is a superficial list of what can be done with a compressor:
- Painting work
- Sandblasting of any materials
- Blowing debris out of hard-to-reach cavities of units
- Cleaning the area
- Tire service
- Working with pneumatic tools.
Air compressor can be purchased in the store. Moreover, kits of any power and performance are offered.
However, such equipment is not cheap: if you do not plan to make a profit from it, purchase it simply for ease manual labor, may seem impractical. Therefore, many home craftsmen try to make a compressor with their own hands.
The simplest (and relatively safe) homemade compressor can be built from a regular car accessory. We will talk about a ready-made electrical device - a compressor for inflating wheels.
It would seem, where should it be used other than for its intended purpose? Design features do not allow large volumes of air to be supplied per unit of time.
This parameter deserves a separate explanation:
The compressor has two important characteristics:
Power
The ability to create high pressure without additional load on the engine.
Automotive units are in complete order with this. You can safely build up pressure up to 5-6 atmospheres. True, pumping up a wheel to the typical 2.5-3 units takes a good ten minutes (at zero initial pressure). During this time, inexpensive devices may simply overheat, so breaks are required.
This occurs due to the low performance of automobile compressors.
Performance
The ability to produce a certain volume of air “over the mountain” per unit of time. The higher it is, the faster the container is filled, and the more intense the flow from the nozzle when using compressed air directly.
To combine these qualities, a large volume of the piston group of the unit and a powerful engine with high speeds are required. Plus, it is necessary to ensure cooling of the cylinders, otherwise the compressor will overheat and jam. Such devices exist; even turbines can be used as a working unit.
But the cost of the equipment does not allow it to be used en masse, especially in everyday life.
Simply put- either power or performance. How to get out of a vicious circle? Use a storage container - a receiver. In industrial designs, this is a steel cylinder, which is slowly filled by a powerful, but not very efficient compressor.
Homemade low-power compressor from an electric motor from a toy. A simple solution to a pressing problem. Such a compressor is quite suitable for supplying air to an aquarium. How to make it with your own hands in detail step by step in this video.
Once sufficient pressure has been created, a sufficiently large volume of air can be supplied from the receiver in a short time. Then you need to wait until the compressor restores pressure.
This is how all units work, including those installed on vehicles with air brakes.
Our “Kulibins” have long learned to create a semblance of industrial installations using an auto-compressor.
We take a spare tire, use our favorite “Berkut” to fill it with 3-4 atmospheres (the main thing is that the tire does not burst), and the high-pressure paint sprayer is ready.
The same device is used for purging when servicing the engine or suspension. Only instead of a spray gun a blow gun is used.
Automation is not required; it is enough to control the pressure manually using the built-in pressure gauge. Of course, you can’t start a pneumatic tool with such a unit, and you can’t make a sandblasting machine out of a wheel.
Air compressor from a fire extinguisher or gas cylinder
If you have a powerful auto compressor for inflating wheels(for such a case you can buy it), you can easily make a full-fledged air unit of medium power. It is enough to purchase an old carbon dioxide fire extinguisher or gas cylinder, and connect it to the finished “rocking chair”.
There are nuances that must be observed:
How to make a full-fledged compressor with your own hands
The auto accessories option is good for its accessibility. However, power, performance, and most importantly, the duration of continuous operation, leave much to be desired. There is a proven option - a compressor from the refrigerator. The cost part depends on your ability to find shareware components.
And I must say, the unit turns out no worse than the factory one.
And so, what is required for production. An exhaustive list that takes into account all the nuances. It can be shortened, with the exception of security elements:
- Compressor from household refrigerator(conditionally free)
- Receiver container: this can be a fire extinguisher, a gas cylinder, or a homemade one welded from thick wall pipe And sheet iron. The latter option is convenient from the point of view of fittings placement, but the issue of welding reliability is very important. The cost also tends to zero
- Air fittings: tubes, hoses, fittings, tees, air inlets
- Working pressure regulator (reducer)
- Pressure gauge (if there is a gearbox = 2 pcs.)
- Inlet air purification filters (to preserve the compressor piston group)
- Oil or water separator at the outlet (relevant for compressors with “wet” lubrication)
- Pressure switch (controls the operation of the compressor)
- Emergency valve (required for any configuration!)
The block diagram is shown in the illustration:
In principle, this “constructor” is not difficult to assemble. There are nuances when connecting a compressor from a refrigerator.
The so-called ones are quite rare. “dry” piston groups - with graphite seals without the use of lubricants. If you get your hands on such a copy, consider yourself lucky. In other cases, the compressor is literally flooded with oil.
This is not a problem for freon, but in clean air for work, a drop of lubricant is useless. Therefore, the receiver first acts as an oil separator, which is equipped with a drain plug, and a specialized filter. There is no need to remind you about the tightness of all connections, and everything is clear. Full-fledged silent compressor from the refrigerator with your own hands, video instructions.
Such a unit will cope well with tire fitting, painting, blowing, and even ensuring the operation of pneumatic tools. True, with intense air consumption, you will have to stop often to restore pressure. If higher power is required, there are more productive developments.
DIY high pressure compressor
If the engine crankshaft internal combustion, is driven by pressure from the combustion of the fuel mixture, why not start the process in reverse?
Using an internal combustion engine as a compressor is not just possible. You get a productive and powerful unit, and the piston group has a good margin of safety. The main question is which drive to use. Considering the total energy intensity, an electric motor with a power of at least 3 kW is suitable.
DIY high pressure compressor from a car engine
If you wish, you can find such a unit in decent condition at a reasonable price. Well, purchasing a live motor from a Zhiguli is not a problem at all. A gearbox is not needed, nor is a starter group. The ignition, intake and exhaust systems are also removed.
For a homemade compressor to work, a lubrication system, cooling system, and a sealed piston group are sufficient. The timing belt is not involved in the process; the camshaft can be removed along with the belt. We don’t touch the exhaust valves, we’ll just check the tightness. But at the inlet you need to install weaker springs.
The valves must freely supply air to the pistons.
Pressure is pumped through spark plug wells. Fittings with ball valves that operate for release are screwed into them. Four pipes are combined into a ramp, and a common pipeline supplies compressed air to the receiver. Of course, the capacity must be appropriate. Such a compressor can produce pressure of tens of atmospheres.
If you are serious and you have an old car engine, for example, from a VAZ 2108 like in this video, then after watching detailed instructions After assembly, you can assemble your own homemade compressor from an internal combustion engine.
Result:
Depending on your needs and financial capabilities, you can assemble a unit of any level of complexity and performance. Space technology are not applied, but structural safety issues come first.
Do-it-yourself compressor - with minimal costs from scrap metal Link to main publication
How to assemble a compressor with your own hands from a motor from an old refrigerator
Compressor for airbrushing from a refrigerator motor">If you do everything correctly and take care of shock absorption, then there will be almost no noise at all.
For those who like to make things with their own hands, and this usually happens at night, this moment is extremely important.
parts for modeling and other hobbies that are usually done after the main job. Therefore, noise level restrictions are very important.
The design of a refrigerator compressor is extremely simple. A container is attached to the compressor from the refrigerator to equalize the pressure, since direct airflow is not stable. This container acts as a receiver and air flow mixer.
What do you need to make a compressor with your own hands and where can you buy all this?
Many people use fire extinguisher cylinders, but there are also plastic containers that are quite resistant to stress. It is important that the container is large enough to mix the air and equalize the pressure from the refrigerator compressor. You can make a receiver from a suitable plastic container from garden sprayers.
If the container is plastic, you will need epoxy resin for fastenings.
Not mandatory, but desirable detail. Installed on a metal receiver.
You can attach a standard hose from an airbrush or a thicker hose if the equipment will be used for painting cars.
Some DIY experience preferred.
Manufacturing process
The most fuss will be with the receiver. If you use an old fire extinguisher as a receiver, be prepared for the fact that there will be quite a lot of metal work. In addition, it will be necessary to ensure tightness. If we do not have significant experience working with metal with our own hands, it is better to take a plastic receiver.
If you use heavy parts, you should be mentally prepared for the fact that the compressor will be stationary. It is better to immediately prepare a reliable base and fasteners for it.
Compressor preparation
Determine where the compressor has a tube for the incoming air flow and where the outgoing air flow is. To do this, you can briefly plug in the compressor and determine which tube the air is blowing from. Be sure to mark the tubes at the base so as not to mix them up. This can be done with colored electrical tape or a piece of medical tape.
Carefully trim the tubes to about 10cm. This is necessary for easy connection of hoses.
The vertical position is important for the compressor. The relay body has an arrow pointing up.
It will be convenient if we fix the compressor in the correct position.
Receiver
Let's consider a simplified version with a plastic canister. Let's cut two holes in the lid for the tubes. The inlet tube must be made long, almost to the bottom. The outgoing one can be made short, about 10cm.
Small sections of about 2-3 cm remain outside. The structure should be secured with epoxy resin to ensure tightness. In the case of an old fire extinguisher, the same actions will have to be done by soldering and welding the fittings.
But you can install a pressure gauge on the metal case.
Connecting parts
Attach a gasoline filter to a short piece of fuel hose. Place the other end onto the compressor inlet tube. The filter is needed to prevent dust from falling into the compressor.
Use a second piece of fuel hose to connect the compressor outlet pipe and the receiver inlet tank. The air flow will go from the compressor to the receiver. We put clamps on the hoses, since the air flows under pressure. Another short piece of fuel hose is needed to secure the diesel filter. The filter is needed to clean the air flow.
A hose and equipment can be attached to the outlet fitting.
Compressor Maintenance
Transformer or motor oil in the compressor must be changed periodically. It is advisable to change the gasoline filter approximately every six months. Replacing the filter is a routine maintenance that any car enthusiast can understand. All maintenance can be done yourself.
How to change oil
Inspect the motor. There should be a sealed tube coming out of the refrigerator compressor. Carefully cut off and drain the oil from the engine. Usually there is about a glass of it.
However, if you purchased the compressor from a workshop, the oil has most likely already been drained. Using a syringe, you need to pump in new oil and take care of how to close the hole.
It will be most convenient to glue the external thread with FUM tape and make a screw cap.
Compressor application
Mainly used for painting
- For painting with an airbrush. Airbrush allows you to draw fine details and apply artistic images.
- For painting auto parts using a spray gun
- For quick painting during repairs. To do this, you need to attach wheels to the compressor platform, like a vacuum cleaner. The accuracy of painting using a compressor is much higher and is used in luxury interior design.
How to make a compressor from a refrigerator with your own hands
A small-sized compressor is a very necessary thing for a garage or personal workshop. It is used to solve many problems.
For painting with a spray gun and applying a layer of glue to large surfaces, for artwork with an airbrush, for blowing dust from the workplace or just for inflating tires...
At the same time, the need for this unit for many is not one-time, but episodic. Therefore, if you, for example, are not an airbrush artist, buying an industrial compress is simply unprofitable.
However, having certain craftsmanship skills, it is not difficult to make such a device yourself. In this article we will tell you how to make a master compressor from a refrigerator.
Each goal has its own means
There are many examples of such artifacts of technical creativity. Just type the appropriate request and look at the photos on the Internet. To build a compressor from a refrigerator with your own hands, you must first understand what all these designs have in common.
What structural elements do they contain and why? Of course, the question of whether or not you have the necessary mastery skills is not even discussed here. Of course you have!
All these design elements can be very roughly divided into basic and additional. “Conditionally” - because everything depends on the purposes for which you will use the compressor.
If you just need to inflate your car tires, then practically only one compressor is enough. Although in this case it must be secured on some basis.
It may be better to install this base on wheels to make it easier to move the compressor around the garage. It will need to be equipped with inlet and outlet pipes and air filters on them.
You need to install a pressure gauge at the outlet and think about reliable fastening of the air hose.
Important! But if you work with an airbrush, then the most important thing for you is the stability of the air flow. Therefore, you will inevitably have to install a receiver in the system.
A receiver is, roughly speaking, a cylinder into which air is supplied from a compressor. And from this cylinder it is consumed as needed.
Here you need to clearly understand what air pressure you are going to work with. The operating pressure of a typical refrigerator compressor is 15-20 atmospheres. Although it’s better to check with the documents for the unit... To inflate tires, 3 atmospheres is enough.
Interesting! To solve most other problems, 6 - 8 atmospheres are enough.
Unless you are going to work with some particularly powerful pneumatic tools. But in this case, for example, for a jackhammer, even 20 atmospheres may not be enough.
That is, when installing a receiver into the system, you need to think about two things:
All these are the main points that you need to think about when thinking about how to make a compressor.
So that everything is not “like clockwork”...
The main difference between a refrigerator compressor and industrial compressors is that it is initially designed to operate in a closed system. That's why he literally bathes in oil!
Oil is mixed with freon, freon with oil, then separated, then mixed again... That is, the lubrication system in the refrigerator compressor is in no way isolated from the flow of the main reagent that this compressor pumps!
Therefore, when you start pumping air with this compressor, oil will inevitably splash out of the outlet pipe. The first thing to do is to make this pipe in the shape of an inverted letter “L”.
At the top, in front of the second L-shaped bend, behind which the receiver is located, an oil filter is installed.
In it, just below the middle, a conical plate directed upward is installed. Gaps are left between the plate and the walls of the chamber. The air flow from the compressor, entering the chamber from below, is slowed down by the conical plate and the drops of oil that it carries with it roll back down.
Important! Although you need to understand that microparticles of oil and moisture still remain in this air flow. Therefore, firstly, don’t even think about “filling” air into scuba tanks with this compressor!
And secondly, the receiver will gradually fill at the bottom with oil-water condensate. In order not to unscrew the entire system each time to clean it, it is better to provide a drain hole in the bottom of your presumably fire extinguisher.
Then it’s a matter of fantasy
Anyone who once rode “for power” on a moped or motorcycle without an air filter knows what deep scratches leaves this seemingly “clean air” on the piston skirts and cylinder walls.
Therefore, when thinking about how to make a compressor with your own hands, you inevitably have to think about the inlet air filter. It is enough to make the inlet pipe to match the inner diameter of the car air filter.
It must be done in the shape of the same inverted letter “G” to avoid splashing the oil outward. Of course, it is also necessary to make a seal to prevent air leaks from below. Surely there is something suitable for this in the corner of your garage?
...So, let's trace the path of air through the compressor we are creating. Through the air filter from the car and the inlet pipe, air enters the “pump”.
Coming out through another pipe under pressure, the air gets rid of oil dust in the oil separator and oil filter. Then the air enters the receiver.
It should be noted that the air must pass through the receiver in order to dampen pressure surges. Therefore, if you simply screw a tee into the neck of your fire extinguisher - at the inlet, at the outlet and at the pressure gauge - this will not give any result.
Ideally, this diagram looks like this. Air enters almost to the bottom of your fire extinguisher through one of the two, longer tubes - and exits through the second, shorter one. Between the inlet and outlet holes there is a third one, into which a pressure gauge is screwed in, showing the air pressure in your fire extinguisher.
A bypass valve or relay is connected in parallel with the pressure gauge. There are also pressure gauges that combine a relay option. Next, from the outlet pipe of the receiver, air enters a hose capable of withstanding a pressure of 6 - 8 atmospheres for use.
If you frequently change the tool connected to the compressor, it is reasonable to install a special pneumatic lock-connector at the end of the hose. It allows you to connect and disconnect the tool with one simple movement of your fingers.
Interesting! If you only work with one thing each time, then you can get by with a regular ball valve in front of the hose. In the same way - convenient, useful, but not included in the “necessary package” - is a second pressure gauge showing the pressure in the hose.
As already said, this is the required level of equipment. These are the tasks that must be solved if you decide to build a compressor for your workshop yourself. Then it’s just a matter of the master’s imagination.
You can, for example, install a cooler for cooling. It’s no secret that air heats up when compressed. Instead of a car air filter at the inlet, you can install a water filter, similar to a hookah.
You can install two in series - instead of one receiver. Or make a salt filter, dry the exhaust air... For each purpose there are different means.
What selection of compressors suitable for home use does the industry have to offer today? Frankly speaking, the range is small, and besides, the offered samples have a lot of disadvantages, ranging from size and weight to noise level.
Ready homemade compressor
It turns out that a homemade compressor will the best solution problems with home workshop equipment.
Engine selection
In my opinion, the best choice for a home compressor engine is a unit from a Soviet-era household refrigerator. Personally, I made myself two homemade compressors with such units, one unit was vertical (I don’t know the brand), and the second was from the Yuryuzan refrigerator (horizontally located).
One compressor was designed to power the airbrush, and the other worked with the staple gun. There were no problems with either unit. Many may argue that they have little productivity; in my opinion, more is not needed for a home. But during operation, such a device is practically inaudible.
Compressor equipment
In addition to the engine and the pumping unit itself for normal operation The compressor also requires other components. To make a compressor with your own hands we will need:
- Foundation for the entire structure;
- Air receiver;
- Filters and moisture separator;
- Connecting hoses or tubes;
- Reducer and pressure gauge;
- Engine starting equipment;
Homemade compressor design
The base, also known as the frame, can have any design and be made from any available material.
For example, you can use a sheet of thick plywood or chipboard of the required dimensions as a base, and mark all compressor components so that free access to all its parts is provided.
In principle, the design of the base and its materials are limited only by the imagination of the developer; for example, I had one of the compressors without a frame at all (I will describe below how to do it).
As a receiver, inventive people most often use old receivers from the KamAZ brake system, very convenient thing, there are all the necessary threads for fittings and a valve for draining condensate. As an option, you can use an old foam or carbon dioxide fire extinguisher (preferably several connected in series).
With such a receiver you will have to do a little work - weld in tubes and bushings to connect the rest of the system.
Air filters and dehumidifier are best used industrial production, the price is of course a little expensive (a good set now costs from 3000), but the quality is worth the money.
It is impossible to make an air compressor with your own hands without connecting hoses or tubes. By personal experience I can say that oxygen hoses (from welding) show very good results, the only drawback is that they are quite heavy, and, therefore, it is inconvenient to work with an airbrush; it is better to use a standard spiral hose.
Everything is clear with the starting equipment; a standard engine starting relay is used, only a switch is added. It is more convenient to use a foot switch, then your hands remain free when working.
Working on the compressor
I'll tell you how to make a compressor using my own example. It started with trying to use a small commercially available compressor for inflating wheels for the airbrush. I was dissatisfied with his performance and got to work.
Took it from my mother-in-law old refrigerator, took the unit with the wiring out of it, and threw the rest away. The engine was sanded down and re-painted with spray paint, then went to the construction market. There I picked up a piece of oxygen hose, purchased suitable clamps and a switch.
After that, I went to my friends’ unit and became the owner of a new KAMAZ receiver. I brought all this stuff home and started creating a simple design.
In order not to make a frame, I decided to use the receiver as the basis of the entire compressor. To do this, I first cut it out of whatman paper and adjusted it to the mounting location for the engine and the supports for the receiver. After everything was ready, I cut out parts from steel 1.5 millimeters thick, bent them and welded them to the receiver. Thus, it turned out to be an analogue of the factory compressor.
Then everything is simple - I installed the pump unit on the cushions and connected all the electrics. Then he took up pneumatics, attaching a fuel filter from a Zhiguli to the inlet pipe of the compressor through a piece of hose (later replacing it with a frame soldered from wire, covered with thin foam rubber).
An adapter for the supply hose was screwed into the threaded bushing of the receiver and connected to the outlet tube of the pump; a moisture separator block with a reducer and a pressure gauge was installed in the opposite bushing, to which a gas tap with a connector for connecting an airbrush hose was screwed. I tried it - everything works great, no complaints.
A little advice for those who are planning to make a compressor from a refrigerator with their own hands - turn on a check valve between the compressor and the receiver, the load on the motor will be significantly reduced.
Many people know that you can assemble a compressor from an old refrigerator, and in a home workshop, without special skills. But not everyone is familiar with the technology and secrets. If you think carefully, an air compressor can be useful in any garage, workshop or household. With its help you can paint a car, pump up tires, or start any pneumatic tool. Even blowing off dust is also useful. Let's consider the version for painting.
Installation Requirements
Painting is a responsible business. Such a compressor must meet a number of requirements. The main one is a uniform supply of air, and without foreign bodies. The most undesirable defects on paintwork are graininess, shagreen, and cavities on the surface. If the air flow is not stable, all this will occur, including dull spots and drips. Specialized branded compressors have everything necessary to eliminate the slightest defect. But the price is off the charts.
Should I buy a unit or assemble it myself?
Therefore, it makes sense to make a compressor for painting a car yourself. To do this, it is worth studying in detail the structure and operating principle of a real, factory compressor. And it is the same for all samples. High pressure is created in the cylinder. The method of air injection is not important - it can be mechanical or by hand. In the case of manual supply, we save a lot of money, but where can we find a slave capable of pumping air continuously? The automatic process will eliminate many disadvantages and problems. An exception is changing the oil in the compressor. Only the mechanism is capable of continuously supplying a stream of air into the cylinder! The theory is simple; making a personal compressor station with your own hands is quick and easy.
Compressor from a car chamber
How to make a paint application installation from a simple car camera? List of required materials:
- pump with pressure gauge for blower function,
- car camera for receiver function,
- awl,
- repair tool kit,
- nipple from a car camera.
The difficult stage is the creation of a compressor station. The camera should be checked for leaks. She's being pumped up. If there is an air leak, the problem can be solved by gluing or vulcanization raw rubber. Then a hole is pierced with an awl. We place the nipple in it for uniform air flow. The auxiliary fitting is secured by gluing. A repair kit will help you cope with this work. Then the fitting is attached to the spray gun. To control the release of the air stream, unscrew the nipple.
But it is noteworthy that the old nipple is not removed. It will act as a valve and hold excess pressure. A control check of the pressure value is carried out by spraying a dye onto the metal surface. If the paint falls even layer, which means the installation is functioning perfectly! Additional control of the pressure value can be checked with a pressure gauge. The air flow, even after turning on the aerator key, must be intermittent!
Designing a home compressor is easy. And after using it, car painting will be of better quality than using a spray can. When working at home, you should avoid the penetration of dust, foreign bodies, and water into the car chamber. These things can get into the spray gun and the painting will have to be done again. At correct operation our unit will work for a long time, and it is desirable to automate air injection.
Craftsmen often noticed that a homemade compressor can last much longer than a factory one. And regardless - domestic or imported. An item assembled with your own hands has positive energy. It is easier to repair and maintain - because you know it very well weak sides and design.
Compressor from an old refrigerator
The unit, made from components of an ancient refrigerator, will not be inferior in performance to compressors from elite manufacturers. To construct it you will need:
- pressure gauge,
- rust converter,
- compressor receiver,
- threaded adapters,
- relay for high-quality control of the flow pressure force in our compressor,
- fuel filter element for gasoline,
- oil moisture separating filter and its gearbox,
- the engine driving the installation,
- cross with 3/4 inch thread for water pipes,
- switch for 220 V voltage,
- sealant,
- motor oil grade 10W40,
- brass tubes,
- oil hose,
- simple syringe,
- thicker board
- metal paint,
- filter element of the power supply system for a diesel engine,
- furniture wheels,
- needle file,
- studs, nuts, washers,
- fum tape,
- car clamps.
A compressor unit from a rare Soviet refrigerator can be useful as a motor. In our example, a compressor from a refrigerator is the most optimal solution. It has one great benefit - a compressor start relay! Very old Soviet models have an advantage over foreign competitors. They are capable of pumping up very high pressures. During assembly, it is necessary to carefully remove rust from the actuator unit.
The rust converter will be able to perform high-quality treatment of the compressor and prevent further oxidation. This will simultaneously prepare the working engine housing for painting. Then they move on to changing the oil. It is clear that if the old refrigerator was subject to maintenance, it was a very long time ago. This also applies to changing the oil in it. But this situation also has a justification - the system is absolutely completely isolated from environment. Semi-synthetic oil is suitable. This modern lubricant has properties no worse than compressor oil. It will cope with the task remarkably well - it contains many high-quality and effective additives. On the compressor body we find 3 tubes: two of them are open, the remaining one is hermetically sealed. We supply power to the compressor unit and determine the nature and direction of the air flow. It is better to immediately write down or mark the intake and exhaust ducts.
A sealed tube is needed to change the oil. We remove it with a needle file, making a notch around the circumference of the tube. It is important to prevent metal shavings from getting inside the compressor. We break off the tube and drain the oil completely into a container that will allow us to determine its volume. Using a simple medical syringe, we pour in the semi-synthetic, and with a larger volume than what poured out!
After filling, the engine lubrication system is shut down. Select a suitable screw and seal it with tape. It should be remembered that oil in the form of droplets will sometimes penetrate from the air outlet tube. An oil/moisture separator for the compressor will save you from this. Assembly of the installation begins with strengthening the motor with the start relay on a wooden base. It should be in the same position as on the frame. The correct switching of operating modes depends on the correct installation and installation of the compressor!
Receiver
How to make a receiver? It is good to use a cylinder from simple fire extinguisher. It can withstand high pressure perfectly and has a good margin of safety. The cylinder is an excellent solution for attached technological equipment. As a basis, you can take a fire extinguisher of the OU-10 brand with a volume of 9.99 liters. It is able to withstand pressure up to 16 MPa. We unscrew the locking and trigger mechanism from our workpiece and screw in the adapter. If we find corrosion, we will mercilessly remove it. It is difficult to remove internal rust; to do this, pour the rust converter into the container of the cylinder and shake out the contents. After cleaning is completed, screw in the crosspiece for the water supply.
A wooden board will be a good base for mounting the motor and fire extinguisher body. It is advisable to place all working parts and assemblies on one line. Threaded rods will serve as fasteners; they must be threaded into the holes obtained by drilling. You will need nuts and washers. Then take the receiver and place it vertically. You will need 3 sheets of plywood. One sheet is for a through hole for the cylinder. The remaining 2 sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the main board and glued to the sheet that holds the receiver. At the base, a recess is made from wood for the bottom of the receiver. To move the unit, we attach furniture wheels.
The system should be protected from dust using a gasoline filter for rough cleaning of the fuel. It will act as an air intake. A rubber hose and an inlet tube from the supercharger will come in handy. The air pressure at the inlet is very low, clamps are not useful. An oil dehumidifier is installed at the outlet to block liquid droplets. A filter element for the power supply system (in simple terms, a filter) is suitable. You will need clamps for the car. The oil moisture separator is connected to the input of the gearbox, and the output is screwed into the crosspiece we have already prepared on the left side. A pressure gauge is screwed into the right side to monitor the pressure value. And on top of the crosspiece we screw in a relay for adjustment.
Adjusting the pressure force in the system
The adjustment relay allows you to set the desired range or limit of the receiver pressure. And at the required moment, interrupt the power supply circuit of the system supercharger. It is recommended to use RDM-5 as a performing unit. With its help, the compressor will start when the air pressure in the tank drops below the required value and will turn off if the parameters are higher than permissible. The required amount of air flow is adjusted to the relay using a pair of springs. The purpose of a large spring is to apply light pressure. A small spring allows you to adjust the upper limit and set the final limit for turning off the entire compressor installation.
RDM-5 was designed for water supply lines. In reality, this is a simple two-pin switch. In this example, one contact is needed for switching with the network zero, the other is needed for switching with the supercharger. The mains phase is carried out through a toggle switch for connection to the second input of the compressor installation. The toggle switch will help you quickly disconnect the system from the power supply. All electrical contacts are well soldered. Then the compressor unit is painted and tested. During a test run, the operation of the relay and the tightness of the system are checked. A test run will allow you to determine the optimal pressure for painting with a uniform layer. To ensure high-quality and long-term operation of the compressor, maintenance is required. An important step in this case is changing the oil.
If you decide to buy a factory-made air compressor, study its parameters and capabilities. Give preference to well-known companies.
A homemade refrigerator compressor is most often used in conjunction with an airbrush or spray gun, as it operates almost silently, takes up little space and creates sufficient air pressure. It is also suitable for inflating car wheels. Next we will tell you how to make a compressor with your own hands.
Materials and tools for a homemade refrigerator compressor
Compressor. The motor is from an old refrigerator and is called a compressor, it is - central element our product. You can see what it looks like in the photo: different models may differ in details, but in general they are similar to each other. The compressor is supplied with a start relay (a black box attached to the side), from which comes a power cord with a plug.
Receiver. A container into which air will be pumped by a compressor. Options are possible here: any tightly closing container with a volume of 3 to 10 liters made of iron or plastic is suitable. This could be an empty fire extinguisher, small tanks, various receivers from trucks, cans from construction liquids.
Hoses. You will need three pieces of hose. Two are 10 cm long and one is 30-70 cm long, depending on the shape of the receiver and the intended mounting. It is convenient to use fuel hoses in a car, as they will connect to car filters.
You will also need one hose or tube to connect a ready-made homemade compressor from a refrigerator to the air consumer itself. Here the length and material depend on the specific needs. If you will be using a compressor with an airbrush, any thin polyvinyl hose (or the one that came with the airbrush) will do. When using the compressor outdoors, it is better to look for a thicker hose.
- Clamps. 5 pieces, size 16 or 20 mm.
- Tubes. Two pieces - copper or iron, with a diameter of 6 mm or another - the main thing is that the hoses fit.
- One is 10 cm long, the second is 20-50 depending on the size of the receiver, more details below.
- Automotive fuel filters. One petrol and one diesel.
- Pressure gauge (optional).
- Epoxy resin if using a plastic receiver.
- A piece of wooden board (base). The size depends on the size of the receiver and motor. They should be placed on the board nearby.
- Steel tape or wire. Needed to secure the receiver.
- Self-tapping screws for wood.
Tools:
- Sharp knife
- Screwdriver
- Drill
- Pliers.
- Metal file (optional).
How to make a compressor with your own hands
Now directly about how to make a compressor with your own hands.
Three tubes come out of the compressor from the refrigerator: two open and one short, sealed. Plug in the compressor and run your finger near the outlets of the tubes. The one from which the air blows will be the exit, and the one that draws in will be the entrance. Remember which is which and unplug the compressor. Use a metal file to cut two tubes, leaving 10 cm or more to make it convenient to connect the hoses. You can bite it off with pliers, but you need to make sure that sawdust does not get inside the tubes. Next, we attach the compressor to the base board, screwing the legs with self-tapping screws (you can use bolts, it’s more reliable). Important: we fix the compressor in the same position in which it was fixed in the refrigerator. The fact is that the starting relay on the motor works due to the forces of gravity; there is an arrow on the relay body pointing up. Having secured the compressor, we move on to the receiver.
Let's make a receiver. Option if you have a plastic container. We drill two holes in the lid for our tubes. We insert them there, as shown in the figure, and secure them with epoxy resin. We leave ends 2-4 cm long on top. Now about the length of the tubes. A short one (10 cm) will be a day off. The second will be the entrance, we make it as large as possible so that it does not reach a few centimeters to the bottom of the receiver. This is done to space the inlet and outlet openings inside the receiver as far apart as possible for greater air mixing.
If you have an iron receiver, we do the same, but do not glue the tubes, but solder or weld them. You can also weld nuts, and then screw fittings into them for the hoses.
The pressure gauge can only be installed in a metal receiver. To do this, drill a hole in any convenient place on the receiver and solder a pressure gauge in it. A more preferable option: weld a nut onto the hole and screw the pressure gauge into the nut. This way, if the pressure gauge fails, you can easily replace it.
Now we take a piece of hose (10 cm) and put it on the gasoline filter. If you use gasoline hoses, there should be no problems; if you use polyvinyl pipes, you may have to heat it with a match or hold it in boiling water so that it fits onto the filter fitting. We put the second end of the hose on the inlet tube of the compressor. This inlet filter is needed to filter out dust. Here, the use of clamps on the connections is not necessary, since there is no pressure here.
We take the second piece of hose and connect it with the outlet tube on the compressor to the inlet tube on the receiver. We install clamps at the connection points.
Now we put the third piece of hose (10 cm) with one end on the outlet tube of the receiver, and put the other end on the diesel filter. We put on the clamps. There is an arrow on the filters (diesel and gasoline) indicating the correct direction of movement through the air filter. Connect both filters correctly. A diesel outlet filter is needed to filter water from the air.
We put our working hose on the outlet fitting of the diesel filter, which goes directly to the airbrush, spray gun, etc.
We screw rubber feet onto the underside of the base board or glue felt pads for furniture. If this is not done, the compressor may scratch the floor during operation - it vibrates. The level of vibration and noise depends on the model of refrigerator compressor you get. Motors from imported refrigerators are almost inaudible, Soviet ones are also quiet, but there are exceptions.
The pressure generated also depends on the model. Ancient motors are more powerful. Most Soviet compressors are capable of pumping up pressure to 2-2.5 bar. The compressor in the photo creates a pressure of 3.5 bar.
Maintenance of a homemade compressor from a refrigerator
Compressor maintenance involves regularly changing both filters and draining any accumulated oil in the receiver. But the main factor affecting the service life of the compressor is the frequency of oil changes. It is better to change it the first time before assembling the compressor. There is a third sealed tube on the motor. We cut off the sealed end from it and drain the oil from it, turning the engine over. About a glass of oil will spill out. Now, using a syringe through the same tube, fill in fresh motor oil, a little more than the amount that was drained.
Afterwards, in order not to solder the drain tube, we screw a bolt of a suitable size into it. The next time you change the oil, simply unscrew the bolt.
Many craftsmen know that you can make a compressor from a refrigerator with your own hands! Can . But few people know exactly how to do this! In this article we will try to provide a comprehensive answer on how to make a compressor with your own hands, so that anyone can create this equipment at home.
After all, if you look at it, the essence of the issue is that an air compressor is needed in every garage. Using a compressor, you can inflate wheels without visiting a service station or tire shop, supply air to a working pneumatic tool, or simply blow off dust from the surface being treated. So, let's consider the installation option for painting.
Factory or homemade compressor
There is a list of specific requirements for a painting station. The main condition is the need for a uniform supply of air, without any impurities. Standard defects that occur due to the presence of foreign particles include graininess, shagreen, or cavities in the enamel coating. If the paint flows unevenly, drips or matte heels may form.
Of course, if you pay attention to branded air compressors, then such installations are equipped with all the necessary functions for quality work airbrush. The only drawback of such units is their cost.
To save money and create at the same time functional model, which will not be inferior to professional equipment, you need to familiarize yourself with the theoretical information base or watch video material on the topic “compressor for painting a car with your own hands.”
The operating principle of any model, regardless of whether it is homemade or factory-made, is the same. Excessive pressure is created in the tank. The method of air injection is different (manual, mechanical). In the case of manual feeding, there is a significant saving in money, but a lot of energy is consumed. After all, the process requires constant monitoring.
Automatic inflation allows you to avoid these disadvantages, with the exception that the oil for the air compressor requires periodic replacement. Thus, there is a uniform supply of air to switchgear. In theory, this looks extremely simple, so it is possible to create an efficient compressor station in a short time.
Do it yourself
So, we choose to make a painting installation from a regular car camera. List of required materials:
- A car camera that acts as a receiver;
- A pump with a pressure gauge that acts as a supercharger;
- Chambered nipple;
- Repair kit;
- An ordinary awl.
Now you can start making the compressor station. The chamber must be checked for leaks; to do this, it must be inflated. If there are air leaks, the problem must be corrected, either by sealing or by vulcanizing with raw rubber.
After which, using an awl, you need to make a hole in the manufactured receiver. A nipple will be placed here, through which a uniform stream of compressed air will come out.
The additional fitting is secured by gluing. A repair kit will help solve this problem. Then the fitting is connected to the spray gun. To check how the air flow comes out, you need to unscrew the nipple.
In this case, the original nipple remains, it will serve as a valve and hold excess pressure. Finally, you need to determine the pressure level by spraying paint on metal surface. If the enamel lays down evenly, then the installation is working well.
In addition, the pressure value can be checked using a pressure gauge. But, its level, even after pressing the aerator key, should not be abrupt.
It is not difficult to design a compressor, but after its manufacture, anyone can make sure that repairing or painting a car will be much more effective than it was with a spray can.
The last parting words include the fact that it is necessary to avoid getting water or dust into the car camera in every possible way. So that these particles do not subsequently get into the spray gun, otherwise you will have to re-paint.
As a result of proper operation, the created installation will work for a long time, but it is still better to automate the air pumping.
Semi-professional air blower
Experts have repeatedly commented that homemade compressor units have a longer service life. Moreover, comparisons were made with domestic and foreign models.
This is natural, because the installation is being manufactured with my own hands. Therefore, we will consider the option of how to make a compressor from a refrigerator that will not be inferior even to products from famous companies. So, for its manufacture you need the following list of materials:
- Receiver for compressor;
- Pressure gauge;
- Relay for monitoring pressure in the compressor;
- Threaded adapters;
- Fuel filter (gasoline);
- Gearbox with oil and water separating filter;
- Plumbing cross with ¾ inch thread;
- Motor for compressor unit;
- Automotive clamps;
- Motor oil (10W40);
- Switch (220 V);
- Oil resistant hose;
- Brass tubes;
- Regular syringe;
- Thick board;
- Compressor rust converter;
- Power system filter (diesel);
- Metal paint;
- Nuts, washers, studs;
- Wheels for furniture;
- Sealant, fum tape;
- Needle file.
Working mechanism
To simplify the procedure, the engine can be a compressor from an old refrigeration unit Soviet model. There's one here positive point, namely the presence of a compressor start relay.
Soviet models are superior to their foreign competitors by producing higher pressure. After removing the executive unit, it is necessary to put it in order, freeing it from accumulated rust.
A rust converter will help treat the compressor to prevent further oxidation. In this way, the working motor housing will be prepared for subsequent painting.
Installation diagram
After completing the introductory part, you can start changing the oil. After all, if you don’t cheat, there are very few refrigerators that have managed to undergo regular maintenance or oil changes. However, this course of events is also completely justified, because in this case the system is completely isolated from atmospheric influences.
So, semi-synthetic oil is quite suitable for this procedure. Moreover, it is no worse than compressor oil and has a sufficient number of useful additives.
We go further and find 3 tubes on the compressor, 2 of which are open, one is sealed. In our case, open tubes will be used for air circulation (inlet and outlet). To understand how air moves, you need to apply power to the compressor for a short time. Then remember or write down which air duct draws in air and which, on the contrary, releases.
The purpose of the sealed tube is for routine oil changes. Therefore the closed end should be removed. A needle file will help us with this; we need to make a notch around the circle of the tube. In this case, you should make sure that chips do not get inside the compressor.
After that, it is necessary to break off the end of the tube and drain the oil into any container in order to determine its volume for subsequent replacement. Then we take a syringe and fill in the semi-synthetic, but in a larger volume than was drained.
When the oil is filled, you need to turn off the engine lubrication system. This can be done by selecting the required screw, after which this screw is wrapped with fum tape and screwed into a tube. This is a good time to remind you that oil droplets will sometimes leak out of the supercharger air outlet tube.
Therefore here on help will come oil/water separator for compressor.
When the indicated work is completed, it is time to begin assembling the installation. You need to start by strengthening the engine with a starting relay on wooden base, so that it is in the same position as it was on the frame.
This is necessary due to the sensitivity of the compressor relay to spatial position. To determine more precisely, an arrow should be drawn on the top cover. It is important to maintain accuracy here, because the correct switching of modes will depend on the installation of the compressor.
Air container
An excellent solution to the problem would be fire extinguisher cylinders. This depends on their ability to withstand high pressure; in addition, the cylinders have a significant margin of safety and are excellent as attachments.
So, let's take the OU-10 fire extinguisher as a basis. Its working volume is 10 liters. According to the technical characteristics, the cylinder can withstand pressure of 15 MPa. Now we need to unscrew the locking and starting device from our workpiece, and then screw in the adapter.
In this case, if traces of corrosion are detected, they must be removed with a rust converter. Of course, external removal is not difficult, but internal removal will require patience. Therefore, we pour the converter inside the cylinder and shake the contents.
After cleaning, you can screw in the plumbing cross. Thus, two working parts of our compressor installation were prepared.
Installation of parts
To make it easier to store and move working parts, it is best to place them on one base. As mentioned earlier, you need a wooden board, which will serve as the basis for securely fastening the engine, as well as the fire extinguisher body.
Therefore, we will use threaded rods to mount the engine, which must be threaded into pre-drilled holes. Of course, in addition to everything you will need nuts (washers).
Then you need to position the receiver in a vertical position; 3 sheets of plywood will come in handy here. In this case, you need to make a hole in one sheet for the cylinder. The remaining sheets are attached with self-tapping screws to the main board and glued to the sheet that holds the receiver.
But, the day before, you still need to hollow out a recess in the wooden base for the bottom of the receiver. And finally, to make the structure maneuverable, you need to screw furniture wheels to its base.
After everything has been done, you need to protect the system from possible dust. A gasoline coarse fuel filter will come to the rescue. It will serve as an air intake.
This will involve the rubber hose and the supercharger inlet tube. It should be noted that there is low pressure at the inlet of the compressor station, and, therefore, strengthening the contact using automobile clamps is not necessary.
Thus, we have created an input filter for the compressor installation. At the outlet of the station, you need to install an oil and water separator that will block the entry of water particles. The power system filter will be used here. Due to the fact that the pressure at the outlet of the compressor station is increased, automobile clamps will be used from this point.
So, the turn came to the oil-water separating filter. In this case, it must be connected to the input of the gearbox, which is needed to decouple the reservoir and the pressure output of the supercharger. This means that we screw the outlet into the previously prepared cross on the left side, and screw in a pressure gauge on the right, thanks to which we can control the balloon pressure. You need to screw in the adjusting relay on top of the cross.
The presence of an adjustment relay will make it possible to set the height range of the receiver pressure, as well as interrupt the power supply circuit in the supercharger in a timely manner. When it comes to the actuator, it is recommended to use PM5 (RDM5).
With the help of these devices, the compressor will turn on if the air pressure in the tank drops below the set level and turn off if the specified parameters are exceeded.
The required pressure is adjusted on the relay using two springs. The function of the large spring is to create a minimum pressure, while the small spring is responsible for regulating the upper limit, essentially setting the shutdown limit for the compressor unit.
PM5 (RDM5) were primarily produced for the purpose of use in the water supply network; in fact, these are ordinary two-contact switches. In our case, one contact is used for the zero connection of the 220 V network, while the second contact goes to the connection with the supercharger.
We conduct the network phase through a toggle switch to connect to the second input of the compressor station. If there is a toggle switch in the electrical circuit, we can quickly disconnect the system from the network, which will save us from running around towards the outlet.
Naturally, all connections must be soldered and carefully insulated. After this, you can paint the finished installation and carry out test tests.
Adjusting the pressure
So, after assembling the structure, it is quite natural to check it. To do this, you need to connect a spray gun, or, alternatively, a pneumatic gun. Then, without turning on the toggle switch, we connect the plug to the network.
We set the control relay to minimum pressure and supply power to the supercharger. Don't forget about the pressure gauge, which allows you to control the pressure in the tank. After we managed to make sure that the relay turns off the engine, we need to check the tightness of the connections.
A classic soap solution can help here. If the system has passed the leak test, you can bleed any remaining air from the reservoir chamber. Please note that if the pressure drops below the established limits, the relay must start the compressor. If all systems are in working order, it is possible to begin painting any part.
At the same time, you should not burden yourself with pre-processing of the metal. It is important for us to set the pressure required for painting the product.
Such experimentation will give us the opportunity to determine the atmospheric value so that any product is painted in a uniform layer. In addition, it is very important that this entire process occurs with a minimum amount of blower activation.
Thus, we can summarize the results. Making a car compressor is a lifting activity for every car enthusiast.
Of course, it’s hard to argue with the fact that the second version is more complicated and will take longer to produce, but thanks to the system automatic control pressure, as well as the presence of a supercharger start-up, working with such equipment will be a complete pleasure.
In addition, you will no longer need to control the receiver's camera. Such a station will allow you to paint a car, a fence in a village or a garage door.
For long-term operation of the created compressor, it will be necessary to carry out periodic routine maintenance . You can use a syringe to drain the oil. In this case, unscrew the filler hole, put a hose on the tube and pump out the waste. Fresh oil can also be pumped in using a syringe. Filters are changed as needed, including if the rate of filling the tank chamber decreases.
Make or buy
Today the market is filled with a variety of compressor equipment. There are piston units, vibration units, screw stations and other devices that are manufactured for different purposes. Ready installations can be purchased at auto parts stores or on specialized websites.
A large selection can make it difficult to choose the right product. But be that as it may, if you decide to buy a ready-made station, focus on studying the technical parameters, cost and reviews.
To obtain a guarantee of quality, it is better to purchase equipment from well-known brands; however, an expensive product will pay for itself in the case of professional car repair. Little-known products can let you down, so it’s better not to take risks.
Often budget options have low quality materials. There are frequent cases of installations failing due to instantaneous breakdowns of individual parts, while warranty repair will take a lot of time.
As already mentioned, hand-made assembly is often more reliable than factory assembly. A separate advantage is the technical parameters. For example, according to statistics, refrigerator compressors last for decades. Regarding the fire extinguisher, we can say that this product has a tenfold safety margin.
Therefore, it is better not to buy something that you are unsure of. In addition, having studied the current material, you know that you can make a compressor with your own hands, even at home. A well-made device will be the envy of your garage neighbors.
Another story
Let's start with drawing up the technical requirements for the fruit of our own engineering. Let's say it all started with the purchase of a new double-action airbrush. Therefore, the issue of manufacturing a compressor unit with a receiver became extremely necessary.
A dual action airbrush has the ability to control the air flow as well as lock and open the air duct. In Europe, such a device is used with a separate compressed air cylinder. So, a compressor with a reservoir serves as a container for collecting air, and the airbrush uses this air.
Of course, the main component is the compressor. Here an old refrigerator will come to the rescue, from which you can remove an excellent compressor. To do this, you can go through websites that sell refrigeration equipment.
We decide on the price and order delivery, but before that we also need to write down the name of the manufacturer and visit the website. So, in our case, the manufacturer is Danfoss. On the company's website we download the technical description of the compressor.
Next, we’ll consider an option like a do-it-yourself compressor receiver. Here, of course, you need a reservoir that was made to contain gases or can withstand high pressure. It is optimal if such a container meets the requirements of GOST. Therefore, we immediately exclude containers by type plastic canister or bottles. Let's look at the tank options:
- Carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. Withstands pressure - 10 atmospheres. Capacity – 3 l/5 l/10 l. Cons: the inlet has a metric thread.
- Hydraulic accumulator. Good capacity capacity, with low operating pressure. There is a convenient thread at the entrance. Cons - needs fine-tuning, since from the inside it is divided into a membrane that contains carbon dioxide. The membrane must be removed.
- Oxygen balloon. Withstands high pressure. Cons: Only extremely heavy models are available.
- Propane tank. In general, they are similar to a fire extinguisher, but the manufacturer does not recommend their use for compressed air.
Links
Once we have decided on the compressor and selected a suitable product for the receiver, the next step is to combine them. In addition, it is necessary to solve the problem of air supply to the airbrush.
You can start with a unit that is attached directly to the receiver and will ensure air distribution. It must be recalled that the key factor is its compatibility with the receiver connector. Next, we pay attention to the pressure switch, which will ensure that the compressor is turned off and on.
The best option for the relay would be RDM-5, which is used for plumbing systems. This model is widely available for sale, and the good thing is that it connecting element Designed for external inch threads.
Then we determine the pressure indication in the receiver. For this we need a 10 atmosphere pressure gauge; it also has a suitable connection size. And we will also need a static device.
Next we are working on the air preparation unit. Pressure must be applied to the hose that leads to the airbrush. Accordingly, there is a need for a gearbox with a pressure control limit of up to 10 atmospheres, and it is desirable that it be accompanied by a pressure gauge and an oil separator filter.
Using a pressure gauge, we will monitor the pressure, and the filter will ensure that particles of compressor oil do not enter the receiver. But it should not be confused with a lubricator filter, which performs a diametrically opposite function.
Let's continue collecting materials, and it's time to prepare fittings, turns, and tees. We take inches as the base size. To determine the quantity, you need a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit.
We will also need external and internal adapters. If you wish, you can make a plan diagram of how to make a compressor. The next stage is the placement of the finished structure. Chipboard boards may be an option.
Of course, in order not to swear while moving the station around the workshop, it is advisable to immediately resolve the issue with the roller legs. Any furniture store will gladly sell them to you. To save space, you can make a two-story structure. True, long bolts may be needed. So, let’s summarize the planning stage with a list of components:
- Compressor;
- Receiver;
- Pressure switch;
- Pressure gauge;
- Filter reducer;
- Emergency valve;
- Fittings, adapters;
- Plumbing gaskets, fum tape, sealant;
- Cables, switch, plug;
- Flexible oil-resistant hose;
- Chipboard sheet
- Roller legs, bolts, nuts, washers and tools.
Let's start assembly
The ideal would be to dismantle the fire extinguisher assembly and weld the adapter fitting. Alternative way, this is to unscrew part of the valve, leaving the internal mechanics and removing the control element, then screw an adapter with an internal inch thread to one outlet, and an adapter from 1 to 38 to the other.
Using an adjustable wrench, twist the adapters according to the diagram. Next, we install the reducer, pressure gauge, pressure switch and adapter for a flexible hose.
The next step is to screw the wheels to the chipboard sheet. Since the structure will be two-level, you need to drill holes for the studs. After that, we put the fire extinguisher in its place.
In the case of using a hydraulic accumulator, the assembly diagram is even simpler, since it has brackets at the top and bottom. Therefore, the lower fasteners are screwed to the base, and the upper ones are used to install the compressor.
In our case, the second floor needs to be built. To do this, markings are made, holes are drilled, and the upper and lower floors are bolted together. After which a compressor is installed on the second floor. Silicone gaskets are suitable to reduce vibration.
When installing the compressor, we install washers. We screw the air distribution module to the tank. Using a hose and clamps, tightly connect the compressor outlet and the inlet of the air preparation unit.
Now it's time to work with the wiring diagram. It would be appropriate to install a jumper. Protective elements will also come in handy. The connection line must pass through the relay and switch. The connection itself will proceed as follows.
From the plug the phase wire goes to the switch. Then it is connected to the desired relay terminal. If there is no ground wire, connect the neutral wire to the relay ground terminal.
Already from the relay, the phase wire and the neutral wire go to the compressor station drive starting device and are connected according to the diagram to the required terminals. Next, install a jumper on the terminal block of the starter by soldering.
It will ensure the connection of the windings to the phase. Cables can be wrapped in plastic ties. We check and start the installation. Then we paint it.
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