Growing grapes from seeds at home does not always give good result, and seedlings purchased from nurseries or markets may be of poor quality. The best option for those who want to get healthy planting material - propagation by cuttings. Plants obtained in this way take root well, but their preparation and care require certain rules. How to grow grapes from cuttings so that the plantings produce a large amount of green foliage and a rich harvest?
The first and main stage of growing grapes is the preparation of cuttings, or chubuks, as experienced winegrowers call them. It is best to do this in the fall before the first frost, when the plants have completely shed their leaves. It is better to take branches that will be used for subsequent propagation from the middle of the bush - they should be as straight as possible, without curved shapes, optimal thickness is 7-10 mm.
Particular attention should be paid to the branches that brought large fruits. It is not recommended to use diseased or barren bushes and so-called fattening branches with a thickness of more than 12 mm for harvesting. The procedure is carried out on a cloudy day or early in the morning before the sun comes out, using clean, sharp pruning shears.
- All leaves, excess shoots, tendrils and other details are removed from the shoots, leaving only 3-4 buds.
- The vine is cut into shoots up to 60 cm long, the lower cut is made at an angle a couple of centimeters above the bud.
- On the lower part of the resulting cuttings, you need to make 3 cuts about three centimeters long so that the roots of the shoots grow better.
- Mark the shoots (with a marker, using store price tags, tags, etc.), then tie them together and put them in water for a day.
- Treat shoots copper sulfate solution and (5%) to prevent mold, dry and store until spring. To prevent moisture loss, the chibouks are treated wax or paraffin on sections.
Grape tubes are stored different ways. If there are only a few shoots, you can store them in the refrigerator - make a container of two plastic bottles and put it in the bottom drawer where vegetables are usually kept. When storing in the basement, the material is poured with fresh sawdust, river sand or moss - it has good antimicrobial properties and prevents the appearance of pathogenic microorganisms and fungal spores.
Another storage method is in a trench dug on the site. The place should be dry, but at the same time protected from direct sun rays. You need to dig a trench about 50 cm deep, put the pipes there and cover it with soil, and make drainage grooves around it.
The temperature must be maintained at 5-6°C, but not higher, otherwise the shoots will germinate ahead of time. Planting material should be inspected from time to time for the appearance of mold and drying out of the cuts, and from time to time, turn them over to the other side. High-quality cuttings suitable for growing should be green when cut, without defects, rotten or dried areas.
Important! Cuttings are an inexpensive and effective way to grow grapes, but it has one significant drawback. You will have to wait quite a long time for fruiting, since the grown bushes will bear fruit only the next year.
Prices for grape cuttings
Rooting shoots
You need to start preparing grape cuttings for planting in mid or late February. They need to be carefully examined, first of all checking the sections. If liquid oozes from them, the shoots most likely will not germinate, just like completely dry branches. Only those cuttings with a green cut, without blackness and mold, on which moisture appears after pressing, are suitable for further germination.
To speed up the emergence of roots and the development of seedlings, they need to be rooted using one of the available methods, having previously been kept in warm water two days, changing the water daily. You can add to it aloe juice, honey or special growth activator drug. Some experienced winegrowers claim that without this procedure, the chubuks may not germinate at all, so it is not recommended to ignore it.
Table 1. Methods for rooting grape cuttings.
| Rooting method | Description |
|---|---|
In the water (kilching) | Place a layer of cotton wool 2 cm thick in glass jars, pour in a little light pink solution of potassium permanganate or water with a slice charcoal. Place the jugs in the container, and create a greenhouse effect on top using a plastic bag and place them so that the bottom of the jar is warm and the top, on the contrary, is cool. At home, such a microclimate is achieved using bottles filled with water of different temperatures. The advantage of this method is that it activates the development of roots, and the formation of buds, on the contrary, slows down |
| Pour drainage into the bottom of liter containers, lay on top a substrate of humus, clean river sand (you can replace it with perlite or vermiculite) and pre-steamed garden soil. Place the shoots with the bottom layer in the ground and water well |
In peat tablets | Moisten the peat tablets well, place the cuttings there with the lower part, and wrap the upper part in moistened natural fabric and wrap it in cellophane |
You can find out what peat tablets are and how to use them for growing seedlings and seedlings by reading on our website.
Grape cuttings should be placed in a place with good lighting and ensure that the lower part is constantly moistened. After about two weeks, the shoots need to be examined - growths should appear on them, from which roots will subsequently appear. If no changes occur, the cuttings should be left for another 2, maximum 3 weeks.
Attention! For growing vineyards in middle lane it is better to choose local varieties - some varieties of crops growing in the south are more capricious and require special conditions.
Planting in a temporary place
After the roots grow up to 0.5-2 cm long, they need to be transplanted to a temporary place, otherwise, when planted in open ground, the roots will become tangled and can easily be injured. To do this, you need to take large plastic bottles or buckets and make several holes at the bottom to allow moisture to drain out. The soil mixture can be composed of leaf soil, sand and humus, optimal level acidity is 6.5-8 pH. Plant the cuttings so that the top sprouted eye is above the ground, the planting depth is about 7-10 cm.
The seedlings should be watered very carefully so that the young roots do not rot. The temperature should be quite high (not less than 15°C) - in such conditions, moisture evaporates normally and does not stagnate. The average frequency of watering is once a week, pour no more than 100 ml of water onto each bush. In cool rooms, you need to water when the plants' leaves and buds droop slightly, signaling that there is not enough moisture.
Advice! If root rot does occur, you can try to save the seedlings. To do this, the damaged part is cut off to living tissue, then put it in water, and after new roots appear on the chibouk, repeat the procedure.
Video - Growing seedlings from grape cuttings
Planting in open ground
Grape cuttings should be planted in May or early summer, when the threat of late frosts is behind us. For planting, it is better to choose a well-lit place, protected from wind and drafts on the south side of the site - the more light and warmth, the sooner the clusters will appear. There should be a support nearby for the grapes to cling to with their tendrils - a fence, mesh or a special trellis.
The basic requirements for the soil are low acidity and normal air permeability. It is important that there is no stagnation of water on the site, otherwise you will have to prepare for planting raised beds. The procedure for planting cuttings is simple, but requires compliance with a number of conditions.
Table 2. Instructions for planting grape cuttings on the site.
| Sequencing | Description |
|---|---|
| Clear the area of weeds, dig a hole 50 cm deep |
| Place drainage at the bottom, pour humus on top, pour water heated in the sun room temperature |
| Carefully remove the cutting so as not to damage the root system and earthen ball, place the plant and cover it with soil 40 cm so that the top bud is above the surface of the ground |
| Water the planted cuttings well with warm water, compact and mulch the soil |
| If the weather outside is cool, you need to cover the ground around the perimeter of the holes with oilcloth, and in sunny weather provide them with shade for 2-3 weeks |
Attention! For different grape varieties, agricultural technology provides different schemes landings. For technical varieties used in the preparation of wine and juice, the distance is 80 cm, between table varieties - 1.5 m.
Video - Planting grapes from cuttings
Planting care
Young plants, especially during the rooting period, require careful care, which consists of: watering, mulching, fertilizing and other events.
- After planting the cuttings need water generously– at least three times a week, pre-heating the water in the sun. After some time, watering is reduced to twice every seven days. To prevent moisture from evaporating, the soil can be mulched with peat or sawdust. At the end of summer, to stimulate the maturation of new shoots, you can completely stop watering.
- Immediately after watering you need loosen upper layer soil, without coming close to the young roots.
- A must remove weeds so that they do not draw nutrients from the soil.
- At the beginning of summer (June), planting should be feed using a solution of 10 grams of potassium salt, 10 grams of urea, 15 grams of superphosphate, diluted in 10 liters of water. The next application of fertilizers is required in early August, for which phosphates and potassium salt are used.
- Pruning must be carried out regularly, otherwise the shoots will grow too much and the berries will be small. In the first year, the roots that have come to the surface, as well as immature shoots, are removed. Next spring you need to cut off the frozen and damaged parts, pinch the tops of the shoots and tie them to the supports. The first serious pruning is done when the lateral shoots reach a length of 15 cm, leaving no more than two shoots on each cutting.
As a rule, grape cuttings take root well and begin to grow actively, after which they bear fruit. Problems are possible if stored incorrectly planting material, violation of rooting rules, improper use of growth stimulants and fertilizers (excessive amounts of nitrogen).
Propagation by cuttings– simple and affordable way grow grapes on your own plot, and if you follow the rules of planting care, the bushes will delight you with a rich harvest.
One day of grape harvest for one bottle of wine. This is the reality in the case of Trockenbeerenauslese. For the German variety, overripe wines are selected. They should wrinkle like raisins and become covered with noble mold.
Look for those among the normal ones - difficult task. Sometimes, it takes even longer than a day to collect the berries for one bottle of wine. But, before collecting fruits from the plantations, these plantations need to be grown. The most effective method counts propagation of grapes by cuttings. Why? This is where we begin the article.
Advantages of propagating grapes from cuttings
There are more than 10,000 varieties of grapes. No other crop has so many, and they are all bred through the seed propagation method. , grown from seeds, inherit the traits of their parents only partially.
It is impossible to predict what the vine and the fruits on it will be like. This is interesting to breeders, but not to wine producers, sellers and consumers of fresh grapes. The cuttings grow into copies of the parent ones.
Grapes have excellent restorative ability. This is another argument in favor of propagation by cuttings. The vines on them can literally be torn to pieces. The wounds will heal quickly, the shoot will rush upward again and bear fruit.
The same will happen with the separated parts of the stems. They take root in a matter of days. There are no problems with survival, growth or fruiting. All that remains is to choose the type of cuttings.
They are green and flexible. These are cut in the warm season. In winter, they take woody shoots. Let's figure out the difference between using both types of cuttings.
Green cuttings are young shoots. They are cut in May-June. This is the active growing season. Behind it is flowering. You need to have time to take cuttings before the buds set. Collecting fresh shoots is beneficial when working with rare and hybrid varieties grapes
The problem of planting material arises. Green cuttings are a valuable reserve. It is “mined” by minting, pinching, and accidentally breaking off vines. Embossing refers to cutting off the 30-40 cm tops of the stems.
This helps redirect juices and energy to the formation of clusters, rather than the growth of green mass. For the same purpose, stepsoning is done. This is also a cut, but not of the tops of the shoots, but of young shoots, that is, daughter vines.
So, material for cuttings is obtained literally at little cost, using what should become garbage. However, you have to tinker with fresh shoots.
Propagation of grapes by green cuttings only possible with high humidity, both air and substrate. The temperature should also be high. 25-30 degrees are desirable. The minimum is +20 Celsius.
The tenderness of green cuttings forces gardeners to root them in greenhouses with artificial fog. In their absence, they use boxes covered with glass.
The latter can be replaced with film. Any cover is whitened with lime. This not only creates a greenhouse, but also partial shade. Green cuttings are easily burned by the sun's rays.
The depth of the boxes for cuttings should be at least 50 centimeters. 15 of them are filled with soil. Ten of them are on fertile soil, and 5 are on sand. The layers are shed abundantly with water. Afterwards, the cuttings are immersed in sand, deepening by 1 centimeter. It is forbidden to touch the humus with the vine.
Green cuttings have a high risk of rotting; moreover, only properly prepared material has a chance to take root. Cut the vine at a right angle. Working sharp knife or a straight razor.
The place where the cutting is separated is under the stem node. The cut shoot is divided into pieces with 2 leaves. The first of them is removed, and the second is reduced by 1/3 of the sheet plate. The stepson of the top sheet remains intact.
The problem of working with green seedlings is also their “ripeness”. Some of the cuts are immature. These need to be raised. Do it immediately or after winter storage in the refrigerator at a temperature of 2 to 5 degrees. Further, propagation of grapes by cuttings at home or in the nursery it continues by grafting greenery or queen cells.
Propagation of grapes by woody cuttings
A counterweight propagation of grapes by cuttings in spring woody, strong shoots are removed in the fall. The diameter of such cuttings is 6-10 millimeters. Do not need anymore.
Thick shoots are called fattening shoots. They usually develop from dormant buds with insufficient yield. The plant spends its free energy on a kind of obesity.
In order to block the process, it is customary to cut off thick shoots, but they are not suitable for cuttings. The productivity of thick and loose vines with long internodes is low.
There are signs of cuttings ripening. When bent, they crackle and have varietal bark. The core of cuttings ready for rooting occupies 1/3 of their diameter. If more, the shoot is still green. If the core is significantly smaller, this is a sign of a fattening vine.
Having selected the ripened shoots, they are prepared for wintering. The cuttings are cleaned of stepsons, foliage and tendrils. If planting material is prepared for several varieties, you need to divide the trunks in accordance with their names, wrap them with wire, and hang “labels”.
In this form, the cuttings are placed in the cold. Usually, they are demolished to a basement or dug trench. The risk of flooding must be eliminated. Otherwise, the bunches of cuttings laid in rows and sprinkled with sand will rot.
In the trench on top of the cuttings there should be 30-40 centimeters of earth and about another 5 centimeters of sawdust, leaves or peat. They will insulate the soil in cold weather. There are usually no frosts in basements. Here it is important to ensure that the temperature does not rise above +3 degrees. The cuttings are stored in the basement in sand. It is moderately moisturized.
Propagation of grapes in autumn by cuttings ends spring planting. Having taken the workpieces out of the soil, they are washed from the ground and cut. Cuttings with 3-4 eyes are considered ideal. Their approximate length is 30-40 centimeters.
The rooting cut is made under the vine node. The apex is separated 1.5 centimeters above the eye. Below it there are additional eyes. They are scraped off with a knife, its back side. Otherwise, shoots competing with the main one will develop.
The preparation of the vines follows propagation of grapes by cuttings in water in spring. Having tied the pieces of trunks in accordance with the varieties, they are lowered into the rivers. When using containers with water, it is important to change the liquid, simulating flow.
The process of soaking the cuttings is underway, increasing their humidity. If the cuttings have dried out over the winter, they need to stay in water for about a week. For well-preserved planting material, a couple of days are enough.
Cuttings can not only be saturated with moisture, but also stimulated to form roots. You need to make cuts from the bottom of the trunks. It is convenient to pull the cuttings through the teeth of the hacksaw. A saw is used to process 8 centimeters of the base of the trunk.
In order for roots to form faster you also need. This is artificial heating of the soil around the trunks. At the same time, the external temperature is kept within 0-5 degrees.
In this case, the upper part of the cutting is “frozen,” preserving the strength for root formation. In the heated earth, the process goes with a bang. Dung heating of trenches with cuttings will help create a temperature contrast.
For lovers, boxes with double bottoms are suitable. A light bulb is placed in its lower part. The cuttings are placed on the upper bottom, covered with bags. The latter protect the grapes from moisture loss. It is important to make holes in the box for ventilation and place it in a cool place.
Cuttings are transplanted into the garden when an influx forms on them from below. Gardeners call the compaction callus. The beginnings of roots should stick out from it. This is enough to move the cuttings into a shkolka, that is, a ditch half a meter wide and 60 centimeters deep. The school is located in a sunny place protected from the wind.
Part of the earth remaining after digging the shkolka is dumped to its bottom, mixed with humus. 2 buckets are used per meter of ditch. Its mixture with soil is poured with warm water.
It remains to deepen the cuttings every 12 centimeters. The vine is planted at an angle to the north side of the tree. There they make a roller from the second part of the earth left over from digging. The embankment will protect the cuttings from cold winds.
Cuttings with roots are planted in separate holes, sprinkled with soil and watered. The vines are also hilled over the level of the trench, covering the trunks by 4 centimeters.
It does not matter how the cuttings were rooted. They can grow not only in fertile soil, but also in sawdust. We will devote the final chapter to their use in germinating grapes.
Propagation of grapes by cuttings in sawdust starts with the typical preparation of the vine pieces. Instead of scratching with a saw, you can pierce the bottom of the shoots with a needle. Perforated cuttings lie untouched for a couple of days.
The next stage is soaking. It is useful to add honey to water. Then you don't have to change the fluid every couple of hours. For 10 liters of water take a teaspoon of honey.
The cuttings are kept in honey water for 2 days. Afterwards the lower node of the branches is cut off. Seeing a greenish color inside the trunks, gardeners understand that it is time to plant them in sawdust. In order to disinfect, they are treated with boiling water.
Grape cuttings remain in sawdust until spring. Wood shavings are moistened a couple of times a week. Spraying is enough. In spring, containers with sawdust are placed in a large container with water and a heating device.
This is how mulching is done. Make sure that water from the lower container does not overflow into the upper one. Roots appear in about 3 weeks. Two centimeters is enough to transfer cuttings to the garden.
If some of the branches produce leaves instead of roots, there is no chance of survival. On permanent place carry bare branches with roots. This is what a quality seedling should look like grapevine.
It is from this that a fruitful shoot will grow, the berries of which may be used for the Trockenbeerenauslese wine. For a bottle of white elixir they ask about 4,000 rubles. This is based on the 2010s harvest. It becomes clear why keeping vineyards is not only pleasant, but also profitable.
Grape cuttings are one of the most common and effective methods of propagation. There are several types of it, which will be described later in the article.
Propagation using green cuttings
This type of propagation is excellent for introducing rare grape varieties into production, because plant parts that are removed during the process of breaking off green shoots are used as planting material. This should be done in late spring, early summer in the evening. During the process, the best of them are selected for cuttings. The shoots are placed in a bucket, sprayed with water and covered damp cloth. After which they are placed in the basement overnight.
Grape cuttings
To propagate grapes from green cuttings, you should first prepare a box half a meter deep, which is covered with film or glass.
The bottom of the box is covered with a ten-centimeter layer fertile soil. About five centimeters of clean sand is poured on top. Then everything is watered big amount water. If there are a lot of seedlings, then a greenhouse is used for their propagation.
Cutting planting scheme
Cuttings used for propagation should be taken only from the lower or middle part of the vine. If you take them from the top, they will rot.
Next, these broken parts are cut into cuttings with two leaves. Moreover bottom sheet is cut off completely, and only half is cut off from the top one. Trimming the cutting should be done as follows: the lower cut should be immediately below the lower node, and above the upper one there should be a section of the vine 1 to 1.5 centimeters long.
After pruning, the cuttings are placed in water as quickly as possible, and then planted in sand to a depth of 3 centimeters and at a distance of 10 centimeters from each other. The planted cuttings are sprayed with water and the box is covered with film or glass if the planting is not carried out in a greenhouse. After this, they must be sprayed with a spray bottle or using a watering can with a fine sieve 4-5 times a day. Use water with a temperature ranging from 20°C to 25°C. After 12 days, the rudiments of the root system will appear in the lower part of the cuttings. After this, the number of sprays is reduced to three per day.
Growing cuttings in a greenhouse
A month later, when root system almost completely formed, you can begin hardening the cuttings. To do this, for several days in the evening, open the box or greenhouse for 10-15 minutes, gradually increasing the time until it can be left open throughout the day.
If in the future the cuttings are not left in the greenhouse, but are planted in a schoolhouse or in a permanent place of growth, then this should be done according to the 10x5 centimeter pattern. IN further care for cuttings is carried out as usual.
Technology for accelerated propagation of grapes from shortened cuttings
Propagation of grapes by cuttings, shortened, allows the introduction of new productive varieties sweet berries. First you need to prepare a well-ripened vine from 1 to 1.5 meters long with healthy eyes. Cut the cuttings two days before planting. A vine 1.2 meters long should produce seven shortened cuttings. The length of each of them is approximately 16 cm. The diameter for vigorous grape varieties is from 7 to 12 mm, and for medium-growing varieties it is from 5 to 9 mm.
At the stage of selection and preparation of the most suitable cuttings, stratification will be the most optimal solution. The planting material is first soaked for two days. Then they are transferred to plastic bags and placed in a cool place. dark place. Once every five days it is necessary to moisten them with water to prevent them from drying out. The stratification stage in this case will take two weeks.
Planting grapes with shortened cuttings is carried out according to the following scheme:
- Site preparation and fertilization;
- Seating breakdown. Using twine, a central strip (130 cm wide) and side strips (160 cm) are made in the greenhouse. It is necessary to leave a distance of about half a meter between the stripes. These will be the paths. Then, using a special template, markings are made. The distance between cuttings in one row is 10 cm, and between rows 30 cm;
- Planting planting material. Plant the plant vertically (a slight tilt is allowed). Immerse the cutting in the soil up to the upper eye.
- After planting, all cuttings are well watered.
Particular attention should be paid. A good water supply will help accelerate the growth of shoots and will contribute to the formation of full-fledged seedlings.
Preparation and planting of lignified cuttings
Perhaps every amateur gardener knows how to propagate grapes using lignified cuttings. You will have to take care of the procurement of material in the fall. The ideal planting material is the middle part of the fruit shoot or a shoot cut into a replacement knot. Preparation of cuttings occurs as follows:
- All stepsons, leaves, tendrils, shoots and immature tops are removed from the branch.
- The cuttings are cut, each should contain four buds.
- The blanks are sorted by grade.
- The resulting bundles are soaked for 24 hours in clean water.
- After 24 hours, the cuttings should be etched with 5% copper sulfate and dry.
- The bunches are wrapped in plastic bags and stored in the cellar.
A few weeks before planting in plastic glasses or bottles, it is necessary to check the freshness of the cuttings. At this stage, rotten and dried cuttings are eliminated.
For germinating planting material, large plastic glasses are best suited, in the bottom of which you need to make three holes with an awl. Then the glass is filled with a mixture of earth, sand and humus. It is necessary to water the seedlings once every two days with warm water.
For a more detailed understanding of this process, you can find a video of grape propagation using green cuttings on the Internet.
Video about seedlings from green cuttings
To get your own rooted seedling of the variety you like, you can carry out grape cuttings at home. To do this, you need to know how to properly prepare cuttings, what time is best to choose for this, and how to care for the resulting planting material in the future.
In the photo there are cuttings
As a rule, cuttings are harvested in the autumn months, during. The main thing is to make it before frost, even if not all the foliage has flown from the bushes yet.
For cuttings, you need to choose the best grape bushes that have shown themselves well in terms of yield and quality of berries. Cuttings are cut from the middle part of the fruit-bearing vine, the thickness of which is from 7 to 12 mm, and the length of the internodes is approximately 10 cm. The color of a healthy vine should be straw or brown, without any dark spots or other suspicious signs.
Video about propagating grapes using green cuttings
Instructions for preparing cuttings:
- cut the cuttings so that each has three or four developed buds;
- remove all leaves and tendrils if they have not fallen off yet;
- distribute the cuttings among varieties (if harvested from different grape bushes), tying them into bunches, and place them in water for a couple of days;
- after soaking, it is advisable to disinfect grape cuttings with iron sulfate;
- dry the planting material and put it in the refrigerator or basement, wrapped in plastic wrap. Suitable storage temperature is within 0+5 degrees.
Make sure that rot does not form on the cuttings in the basement due to high humidity. Rotten branches can be washed with water or discarded if they no longer look completely suitable for planting.
Photography of grape cuttings
At the end of February, or already in March, you can start growing grapes from cuttings. Cut each productive shoot into small cuttings with two eyes, one and a half centimeters away from the buds. In this case, the upper cut is beveled, and the lower one is made perpendicular.
Healthy twigs should be light green when cut and should release a clear liquid when pressed. Cuttings with darkened sections are not used for rooting.
It is recommended to make grooves on the sides of the base with a sharp nail or needle. Next, disinfect the small cuttings in a solution of potassium permanganate for 5 hours and place them entirely in water at room temperature for two days. It is also useful to hold the branches in a root formation stimulator after soaking.
Photo of soaking grape cuttings
To form a root system, prepared grape cuttings are placed in an ordinary glass jar filled with clean water by 3 cm. Place different varieties of grapes in different containers and place on sunny place. After 12-14 days, you will notice how the upper bud has swollen, and the growth of a young shoot has begun, and in a month the roots will grow. The main thing is not to forget to add fresh water as it evaporates.
Plant the cuttings with regrown roots into the ground, using one and a half liter bottles with the neck cut off, plastic cups, plastic bags and seedling pots as containers. For convenience, containers with seedlings can be placed in one box, making it easier to later transport the stronger plants to the vineyard.
Before planting grapes with cuttings, you need to prepare a suitable substrate by mixing garden soil, humus, rotted sawdust and sand (1.3: 1: 1: 0.5), or buy a ready-made soil mixture in the store. Be sure to add a drainage layer to the bottom of the container, add soil mixture and, placing the cutting so that the top eye is on the surface, fill the container to the top.
Video about how and when to root grape cuttings
As you can see, growing grapes from cuttings is not particularly difficult. It is only important not to neglect the rules of caring for seedlings:
- keep on a sunny windowsill, but at the same time shade the glass from the sun's rays to prevent burns on the delicate grape leaves;
- maintain moderate soil moisture;
- remove emerging weeds;
- periodically water the soil with a suitable pest control agent;
- feed the seedlings with complex fertilizers.
Photos of grape cuttings
By June, the cuttings will be completely ready for planting in open ground, but if the plants seem weak in appearance, move them to a greenhouse for growing. Well, you can read about which planting method is best to choose in the corresponding article on our website.
How to grow grapes from cuttings? The process is long, but not so difficult, even beginners can do it. The main thing is to choose a variety suitable for your climate, properly prepare grape cuttings and follow storage rules. In the spring, the plant is rooted and transplanted to an open area. You can plant it in the fall if the winters in your region are not too cold.
If you follow the rules at all stages, the cuttings will take root, and in a couple of years you will be able to enjoy delicious berries.
Preparing the correct grape cuttings for propagation is a very important process when growing them. It is best to take cuttings from the vine in the fall. Although some winegrowers cut and harvest chibouks in February or in early spring, until the movement of juices and buds began to bloom in the vine. With this method there is no need to worry about storage, but rooting is a little worse. You can also grow grapes from green cuttings.
Cuttings are carried out using the following method:
- choose a twig 0.7-0.8 cm thick with dark green bark;
- cut it in a straight line, 2-2.5 cm below the lower bud;
- the length of the cutting should be from 12 to 60 cm, long branches can be cut into shorter branches;
- the top is cut off at a distance of 3-4 cm from the eye along an oblique line in reverse side from the direction of bud growth;
- carefully inspect the vine, it should be healthy, without stains, damage, or signs of mold.
Chubuki need to be properly prepared so that they remain alive all winter and in the spring they can retain their properties and be planted in the ground. Harvesting and storing grape cuttings looks like this:
- immediately after cutting, the branches are soaked in water for a day;
- carry out disinfection in copper sulfate or potassium permanganate for about a quarter of an hour;
- gently dry on filter paper or regular newspaper;
- on the eve of storing the cuttings, cover the ends with wax or paraffin (then they do not dry out quickly);
- tie the stems into bundles and mark them so that the variety can be determined in the future (when there are several of them);
- sent for storage in a cool place (balcony, refrigerator, basement).
How to store grape cuttings in a cool, but not very humid cellar, in the refrigerator? Some novice winegrowers believe that they can forget about chibouks until spring. Actually this is not true. They need to be examined once every 3-4 weeks. If the cuttings are covered with mold, it must be removed and soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate. When there is too much mold, it covers the entire branch, it is better to get rid of such cuttings. If the twigs dry out, they are re-soaked in melted water, rain or boiled water, then dry, repeat waxing the ends. Normal storage of grape cuttings at home helps to increase the percentage of rooted branches.
Preparation for rooting and its basic methods
Its further rooting largely depends on how to store the grape cuttings. The stage of preparing the vine is no less important. How to properly prepare grape cuttings for further germination? They begin to do this in February or early March. First you need to remove the paraffin and renew the lower cut. Then the chibuki need to be soaked in water for 1-2 days, depending on the degree of drying. To revive the planting material and increase the likelihood of rooting, add 2-3 tbsp to the water. l. honey, aloe juice, epin, heteroauxin. It is good to soak cuttings in rootstock, humate, zircon.
Then you can carry out cuttings of grapes and their germination. You can do this different ways. They are suitable for germinating both fruit and maiden grapes. So, germination is carried out using the following methods:
- in water;
- in bottles;
- in the substrate or soil;
- on the wardrobe;
- in open ground.
With any method, kilching can be carried out in parallel. The essence of the technique is to create a warmer environment near the roots than near the top. To do this, you can place the container with the cuttings on the windowsill, the tops of the cuttings will be near the cold window, and the roots will be near the warm radiator. The keel can be made from plastic bottles or paper cups, pouring sawdust into them, which retains heat and moisture. The point of such manipulation is to slow down the development of the crown and accelerate the growth of roots. Then the grapes grow more intensively from cuttings.
Sometimes before rooting, stratification of planting material is carried out. The branches are kept in the refrigerator or cellar at a temperature of 2-5°C for about a week. This allows you to better protect them from diseases, stimulates the movement of juices and the development of roots. How to properly process the cuttings before planting, cut and root them, you can see in the photo or video. It will give a better understanding of all stages of the process.
Germinating cuttings in water
Growing grapes from cuttings with rooting in water is the most popular method. It does not require much effort or special knowledge. The main thing is to find enough space to put the jars. If there are many cuttings, this can create difficulties. Prepare the pipes as described above. The ends are trimmed, soaked in water, and not forgetting to treat them with an antiseptic. The next steps look like this:
- Place cotton wool or gauze on the bottom of a jar of water; you can also germinate it on damp foam rubber;
- pour water so that its layer is 2-3 cm;
- throw a couple of crystals of potassium permanganate (the solution should be slightly pink) or charcoal into the jar: this will prevent rotting of the roots;
- Place the cuttings so that the water reaches the first eye;
- water is added as needed.
For better rooting, you can put it on a jar plastic bag, thus creating a mini-greenhouse. If the branches have produced 2 branches and leaves, you cannot leave them all; the stronger one is removed: it takes too much energy from the roots, impairing their growth. You can get a lush crown, but very weak roots that cannot take root in the ground.
It’s a good idea to grow grapes from cuttings, rooting them in an aquarium. To do this, place a strip of foam or cardboard on its edge. They stick the stems into it so that the lower end sinks 2-3 cm into the water. With this germination, root formation proceeds faster, since the branches feed on the waste products of the fish.
How long does it take to root seedlings in water? In general, the process takes 2-3 weeks.
Planting in pots with soil
When roots about 2 cm in length appear on the branches, they are taken out and transplanted into a pot with a capacity of 500-1000 ml. The soil is prepared from a mixture of the following components:
- garden or turf soil - 1 part;
- humus or compost - 1 part;
- large sand - 2 parts.
It’s a good idea to buy ready-made universal soil in the store and mix it in equal parts with sand. It is worth putting a small drainage at the bottom of the pot, which will retain moisture. The branches are lowered into the pot by a third or three-quarters so that there is enough space below for the development of the root system. Seedlings must be handled very gently so as not to damage the young roots. You can clarify the method using the photo. Replanting into the ground will also be necessary for vines grown by other methods.
Germination in sawdust and soil
It is easy to create grape seedlings from cuttings by germinating them in a substrate. It is made from wood shavings, and sawdust is also used. Deciduous fruit trees (apple, pear, plum, cherry) are best suited for this. First, the substrate is poured with water brought to a boil; after cooling, the excess is squeezed out. Then you can use a cultivator or growing in sawdust and bottles. They do it like this:
- the necks of bottles are cut off;
- several holes are made at the bottom;
- pour a drainage layer on the bottom (sand, small pebbles, crushed brick);
- pour approximately 7 tbsp. l., prepared sawings;
- stick one or several branches at a slight angle so that the upper eye is at the level of the cut of the bottle;
- sprinkle with a second layer of substrate on top;
- are closing plastic cup or polyethylene;
- placed on a windowsill or on a closed balcony.
After 2 weeks, the seedlings are pulled out and checked to see if they have taken root in the sawdust. If there are no roots on the cutting, it is sent back to the substrate. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into a container with soil. You can grow chibuki in bottles with soil. The mixture is prepared according to the recipe given above. The soil is poured into the pot in the same way as the substrate. Germinated cuttings can be immediately transplanted into open ground. Sometimes cultivation in sawdust and soil is combined. Soil is poured underneath and woody substrate is placed on top.
Germinating cuttings on a cabinet
When there is a lot of planting material, but there is too little space in the room, it is a good idea to germinate grapes from cuttings on a cabinet. The seedlings are prepared, and their lower ends are wrapped with a wet rag and plastic film. Place the branches in stacks on the cabinet where they will not interfere. The free ends are turned towards the light source, preferably towards the window. It’s good if the roots are warm and the tops are cold. Every few days, check to see if the fabric is dry. If necessary, moisten it with water. After two weeks, leaves and pagons appear on the branches. They need to be cut off, leaving only one.
A more advanced way to grow seedlings is to use peat tablets. First, they are soaked in water, then the cuttings are inserted approximately 2/3 of the depth. The tablets are wrapped in plastic film. After this, you can put it on the cabinet, as with the first method. Advantage peat tablets the fact is that you don’t need to constantly water them, there is no need to care for the branches. If leaves appear on them, they are pinched off, leaving only one. In this way you can germinate any variety, for example, Dubovsky, Odin, Anyuta, raisin, etc.
Germination in open ground
For germination in open ground, you can use cuttings of any grape. But it is not recommended to use the technique in areas with very cold winters (in the Urals, Siberia, etc.). In Moldova, they use the germination of seedlings from long vines (about 60 cm). It is twisted into several turns and bandaged. They dig a hole, lower the vine there so that 2 buds remain on top, water it abundantly, then hill up the seedling, and pour a mound of soil on top.
You can plant cuttings directly into the ground if you managed to buy them too late and there is no time to root them at home. This should be done when the temperature outside has already risen to 15°C and the chibouks are not in danger of frost. Perfect time 1 mid-May or early June. They are planted in the same way as rooted cuttings. Only the distance between the chibouks should be less, about 20 cm. You can cover the branches for 2-3 weeks glass jars or bandage with polyethylene. Without rooting, cuttings can also be planted in the ground in the fall. This method is best suited for early grapes.
In summer, grapes can be propagated from green cuttings. The material is collected when the bush is pruned. Healthy branches with developed phloem are placed separately from the rest of the mass. After this, the vine is cut into cuttings with 2-3 eyes. The lower leaves are removed. Growing green cuttings can be done indoors or outdoors. In open ground, root formation will be better if you cover the seedlings with film. When growing grapes from green cuttings, soaking will not be necessary, although it is not so bad to soak the branches in an antiseptic for a short period of time. After planting in the substrate or soil, watering is carried out once every 5-7 days.
Transplantation into open ground
To grow good grapes from cuttings, they need to be properly transplanted into open ground. They do this in the summer, at the very beginning, when there is no risk of late frosts and it is warm outside even at night. By that time, the cuttings will have already taken strong roots and are able to take root well. Some people prefer to plant chibuki in the ground according to lunar calendar approximately at the same time. A successful process is ensured by:
- the right place to plant vines:
- well prepared soil:
- Properly dug holes for planting:
- correct transfer of seedlings to open ground.
It is not difficult to prepare everything you need for planting, you just need to follow some instructions, then the forcing of the vine will be satisfactory, after a while leaves will appear on the branches, and the roots will be firmly established in the soil.
Selecting a location
Where does the vine grow best? Grapes grown from cuttings should be replanted open place. Shouldn't be near him fruit trees and bushes that shade the vine and infect it with diseases. It is not advisable for garden crops to grow near bushes, a flower garden, or concrete paths. Grapes love space and freedom, then they grow and bear fruit well. Choose a place that is illuminated, preferably on the south side. It is good if it is protected from the northern winds by a small hill or the wall of a building.
The soil
Grapes like soil that is slightly acidified, the ideal pH is 6.8-8. Soil containing turf or garden soil, peat, sand, and humus is well suited for planting. The soil should be well aerated and the moisture in it should not stagnate. Best time To choose a place for planting - autumn, in the spring you just need to remove the weeds and loosen the ground again.
Holes and trenches for planting
Grown grape seedlings from cuttings can be planted in holes or trenches. A hole is dug about 45x45x45 cm in size. The depth of the trench is 30-40 cm. The bottom is covered with 2-3 cm of drainage, this can be small pebbles, crushed brick or coarse sand. Then add potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, 2 tbsp. ash. They fall asleep on top soil mixture from equal parts of humus and turf soil mixed with two parts of sand. To protect young seedlings from diseases, you can pour a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate into the hole.
Transplanting cuttings
The distance between the cuttings should be 30-40 cm. It is better to plant 2 branches of the vine in one hole. After the bushes take root, the weaker ones can be removed. The cuttings should be planted in the ground at an angle of 45°. They dig in the seedling so that 2 buds remain on top, then cover it with a mound of earth. At the end, water generously (one bush needs 2 buckets of water). Some winegrowers recommend making high-quality trellises at this stage so that the pagons and leaves can be attached to something.
Seedling care
How to grow good grapes from cuttings? They need to be properly prepared, stored in proper conditions and rooted. The stage of transplanting into the ground is very important, on which the establishment of the vine in the garden depends. Equally important is how to care for young seedlings in the first year. If you pay enough attention to the whole process, there is a huge chance in a couple of years to get a bountiful harvest of grapes and berries, as in the photo.
Growing grapes from young cuttings, especially in the first year, requires careful care. It provides:
- watering and weeding;
- regular loosening of the soil;
- fertilization;
- garter vine;
- treatment of seedlings against diseases.
Seedlings need to be watered once every 10 days to prevent them from drying out. For one bush you will need about a bucket of water. You can water directly under the bush or install drainage tubes. The second option is more convenient. Weed them as the weeds grow. The soil is loosened every week so that enough air reaches the roots. Fertilizers are applied only organic (humus, compost, diluted chicken droppings etc.): they contain a lot of nitrogen, and with its deficiency, grape leaves turn yellow. You can feed the plant 3-4 times a season.
You can do this when landing homemade frame for grapes. If this is not possible, the vine branches are tied to ordinary pegs. Trellis are installed already in the second year, when the cuttings send out powerful and numerous runners. Most often, grape cuttings are affected by fungal diseases. For prevention, they are treated with copper sulfate or special purchased preparations. Proper care allows you to save almost all the seedlings and get them in the future good harvest grapes
