Using a rocket stove with a stove bench for heating a house or bathhouse. Do-it-yourself jet stove. Rocket stove: diagram DIY mini rocket stove

Drawings and videos of a rocket stove required for DIY installation

Do-it-yourself jet stove: diagram, drawings, step-by-step instructions for making a rocket stove, etc. + video

The jet stove or rocket stove appeared as a result of a deviation from the traditions of manufacturing equipment for heating a room. It is considered an economical heat generator, the design of which is elementary. Therefore, many people are thinking about building a jet furnace with their own hands.

Description, advantages and disadvantages of the rocket stove

A heat generator for heating the air in a room is called a rocket stove or jet stove, since during operation, in case of excessive air supply, it makes special sounds. This noise can be mistaken for the roar of a jet engine. In normal mode, the equipment operates with a barely audible rustling sound.

A rocket stove serves as a device for heating a home and cooking food. It takes about 6 hours to burn one batch of firewood in such equipment, more than in a standard metal stove. The reason for this is the creation of a heat generator based on a top-burning furnace.

The flame from the jet furnace may burst out

The advantages of the rocket stove include:

independence from fuel energy;
simplicity of design, consisting of accessible parts, connected in a matter of minutes;
the ability to provide a lot of heat, despite the quality of the loaded fuel.

The jet furnace also has some disadvantages:

manual control, which implies constant monitoring of equipment operation;
danger of burns, because the walls of the equipment become extremely hot;
It is inappropriate to use in a bathhouse, since it cannot be warmed up.

Kinds

A unit that emits a rocket-like hum during operation can be:

portable (a unit made of metal pipes, buckets or a gas cylinder); Portable rocket stoves are mass-produced by industry
stationary (made from fireclay bricks and metal containers); Such a unit is more difficult to build than a metal furnace
equipment for heating air with a couch. The couch is equipped with back wall ovens

Portable structures are made in large quantities, because they are used for hiking. The basis of these heat generators is a pipe made up of several sections.

True, such structures, unlike units based on fireclay bricks, are not reliable. Walls made of refractory blocks increase the heat transfer of the jet furnace.

If desired, you can add a bed in the form of a sofa or bed, decorated with clay or sawdust.

Parts and operation of a jet heat generator

A basic rocket furnace is a device consisting of two pipe fragments connected by a bend at an angle of 90 degrees.

The combustion chamber in this heat generator is usually a zone in the horizontal part of the structure.

But sometimes fuel is placed in the vertical section of the apparatus, for which a rocket stove is constructed from two pipes of different lengths, mounted vertically and connected by a common horizontal channel.

Primary and secondary air passes through the furnace

The operation of a jet stove is based on two actions: the unhindered passage of wood gases through the pipe and the afterburning of gases produced during fuel combustion.

Wood chips and firewood are placed in the firebox of this heat generator after a highly flammable material such as paper ignites. A container with water or other contents is placed on the open section of the pipe.

At the same time, a small space is left between the structure and the installed container, which is necessary to create traction.

The processes occurring inside a stationary reactive furnace resemble the operation of pyrolysis heating units

Calculation of parameters (tables)

The volume of the furnace should be determined wisely, because it is it that affects the power and amount of heat generated by the heating equipment.

When calculating the dimensions of jet heating equipment, use the indicator of the internal diameter of the drum D, the value of which can range from 300–600 mm. You also need to know the cross-sectional area of the drum.

To determine this indicator of the rocket stove, use the formula: S = 3.14 * D2 /4.

The main dimensions of the jet furnace are presented in the table:

Particular importance is attached to the length of the flue with the stove bench. The maximum permissible values are shown in the table:

The volume of the secondary ash chamber is also an important indicator, depending on the volume of the drum and the primary chimney.

Construction raw materials for the construction of a non-standard furnace

The production of jet heating equipment will require:

barrels with a volume of 200 liters and a diameter of 0.6 meters, an empty liquefied gas cylinder or tin buckets to build a furnace drum;
square or round pipes made of steel 2–3 mm thick, which are needed to create a blower, combustion chamber and primary chimney;
fireclay crushed stone and oven clay as thermal insulation materials;
adobe, which serves as the outer coating layer;
fireclay bricks;
sand from the bottom of the river;
pieces of sheets of zinc-coated steel or aluminum for the manufacture of lids and doors;
asbestos or basalt cardboard, which serves as a sealant.

When constructing a rocket stove, you will need a welding machine. And if you plan to make heating equipment from bricks, then you will have to take:

Master OK;
mortar spatula;
hammer-pick;
jointing;
sharp-angled sledgehammer;
level;
plumb line;
roulette

Preparation for assembling heating equipment

When choosing a location for a rocket stove, follow some rules:

jet heating equipment is placed only in a room with an area of at least 16 m²;
Without floorboards under the stove, installation of equipment will be easier;
It is prohibited to place wooden beams above a structure that produces heat;
if it is assumed that the chimney will go through the ceilings, then the heating equipment is placed in the middle of the house;
the heat generator cannot be installed near the external contour of the house, otherwise the room will lose heated air;
The jet device must not be placed next to walls and partitions of wooden materials.

To make it convenient to add fuel to jet heating equipment, it is wiser to place it facing the entrance. It is important to leave at least a meter of unoccupied area around the rocket stove.

In a small house, builders advise setting aside a place for the stove in the corner. In this case, the firebox should be directed in one direction, and the bed (if it is made) – in the other.

The stove stands on a special platform that protects the floor from high temperatures

Having found a suitable site for the rocket stove, they begin to prepare it for construction work. If boards are laid on the floor in the house, then in the place where the equipment will be installed, they will need to be removed. A hole is dug under the exposed floor, the bottom of which is necessarily pressed.

Before construction work, a special solution should be mixed. It consists of sand and clay combined in a 1:1 ratio. You will need enough water so that the construction raw materials have the consistency of sour cream, that is, ¼ of the amount of dry ingredients.

Step-by-step instructions for making it yourself

If you plan to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder, then you don’t have to be afraid of difficulties. The steps to create equipment from such construction raw materials are quite simple:

the upper part is cut off from a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in order to build a kind of cap;
The balloon is cut off at the top and bottom
Based on the instructions in the drawing, all parts of the product are welded to each other, that is, a gas cylinder, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (future chimney), a pipe with a diameter of 7 cm (internal channel) and another pipe with a diameter of 15 cm (fuel firebox);
Dimensions in mm
the space between the two pipes is filled with a material that retains heat, for example, sand, which has been thoroughly calcined, that is, cleared of organic substances;
To give the structure stability, the legs are welded.

To build a rocket stove with a stove bench, which involves the use of bricks, you need to proceed differently:

The area for arranging the firebox is deepened by removing 10 cm of soil. The combustion chamber is formed from fireclay bricks. Formwork is created along the contour of the structure being manufactured. To ensure a strong foundation, it is recommended to lay it in reinforcing mesh or metal rods;
The platform will harden in about two days
The structure is filled with liquid concrete. Then they wait for the solution to harden and finish the work. The bricks are laid in a continuous line, creating a platform for the stove. After this, the walls of the structure are formed, placing several rows of brick blocks;
The lower channel of the structure is constructed, with one line of bricks laid across to block the combustion chamber. The blocks are placed, leaving the vertical channel and the firebox opening open;
Two sectors of the furnace at this stage of construction should be open
Find the body from the old boiler and cut off the top and bottom covers on it. A flange is installed at the bottom of the resulting pipe through which a horizontal heat exchanger will pass. The parts must be connected to each other with a continuous weld;
Work requires accuracy
An outlet pipe is inserted into the barrel, after which they take a metal brush and scrape off the rust from the walls of the container. The cleaned barrel is treated with a primer, and a little later with paint that is resistant to high temperatures;
The horizontal chimney is connected by welding to the side outlet - the future ash pit. To facilitate its cleaning, a sealed flange is installed;
The fire tube is laid out from refractory bricks. At the same time, a channel 18 cm high and wide is formed inside the structure. When doing this, they constantly use a building level, which allows you to control the verticality of the product;
The height of the pipe is determined in advance
The flame tube is covered with a protective casing, and the resulting gaps are sealed with perlite. The lower area of the vertical channel is sealed with damp clay, the function of which is to prevent spillage thermal insulation material on the floor;
From the boiler, on which the top and bottom have been cut off, a fuel tank is formed. A handle must be welded to it;
To improve the appearance, the structure is treated with adobe putty, consisting of sawdust and raw clay. The first component of the composition serves in the same way as crushed stone in concrete, that is, it prevents cracking of the furnace walls. It is recommended to apply adobe putty over perlite backfill;
They create the facade of the stove, for which the stove contour is laid out from stone, bricks, adobe and sand. The back side of the structure is filled with crushed stone, and the front side with adobe mixture, making the surface perfectly flat;
A metal barrel casing is placed on the previously created base. The lower pipe of the container is directed towards the bed. The bottom of the structure is treated with raw clay, which will ensure its tightness;
A channel made of corrugated pipe is connected to the combustion chamber. It will serve as a link between the firebox and the outside atmosphere;
At this stage the oven looks almost finished
A test firing of the stove is carried out, watching how the gases are removed from the horizontal chimney. After this, the heat exchanger pipes are connected to the lower pipe installed on a red brick platform;
The stove is equipped with a smoke exhaust pipe. The junction of the chimney and the heat generator is sealed with fire-resistant coating and asbestos cord;
Using clay and adobe, the bed is given the required form. Only the horizontal section of the structure is left unsealed, which will then be used during cooking.
The oven functions as a whole system

Design improvement

A bench with a gas duct inside is not the only option for upgrading a rocket stove. The design can be improved with a water jacket connected to heating system, in which water circulates. It is advisable to give this part of the structure the appearance of a coil created from a copper pipe twisting onto the chimney.

This design provides even more heat

Another way to improve a jet furnace is to organize the flow of heated secondary air into the flame tube. This will increase the efficiency of the heat generator, but will lead to the deposition of a large amount of soot in the primary chimney. Therefore, it is better to make sure that the drum cover can be removed if necessary.

Subtleties of operating an unconventional stove

A rocket furnace is heated in a similar way to a top combustion heat generator. It turns out that the kindling of equipment called a rocket must be carried out according to certain rules:

the main raw material for heating the unit must be added only after the structure has been well heated, for which purpose sawdust or paper is first placed in the blower sector and set on fire;
they must react to the muting of the hum emanating from the stove - they put a large batch of fuel into the combustion chamber, which will ignite on its own from the hot remains of sawdust;
the process is closely monitored, that is, after laying the firewood, the damper is fully opened, and after some time, when the equipment makes a hum, it is closed to produce a sound similar to a rustling;
as necessary, the damper is closed more and more, otherwise the firebox will be filled with an excess volume of air, which will disrupt the pyrolysis inside the fire tube and lead to the creation of a strong hum.

Since the jet stove was originally created for use in the field, its design is extremely simple. This allows an ordinary home craftsman to cope with the manufacture of the unit. But, despite its apparent lightness, the rocket stove must be assembled, taking into account the correct ratio of parameters. Otherwise, the equipment will be unproductive.

Ksenia Zubkova
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Source: //legkovmeste.ru/stroitelstvo-i-remont/otoplenie/reaktivnaya-pech-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY rocket oven - instructions!

Unfortunately, in our country almost no one knows about the rocket stove. Meanwhile, such a design is extremely useful in a number of cases due to the almost complete absence of soot during operation and the high combustion temperature.

Jet stove

Rocket stove

Today we will talk about how to make a rocket oven with your own hands.

Principle of operation

Hot gases, instead of a chimney, enter a special hood, where they burn out (hence the absence of soot). At the same time, the temperature increases even more, and the pressure, on the contrary, decreases. The cycle is constantly repeated and soon the furnace reaches the combustion mode with maximum draft (the strength of the latter depends on design features and quality of installation).

Rocket stove

The temperature in the bell can reach 1200ᵒC, as a result of which all waste burns almost without residue, and the exhaust consists mainly of carbon dioxide and water vapor.

Note! Thanks to this, the chimney can be laid under the floor or through some kind of heating structure (a couch, for example, or a bench). What's more, the hot hood can be used to heat water, cook food, dry fruits, etc.

Jet furnaces

The advantages include:

high efficiency;
no soot;
high temperature;
the possibility of using cones, damp branches, dry plant stems as fuel - almost everything burns at a temperature of 1200ᵒ;
low fuel consumption - approximately four times lower than in the standard design.

Types of rocket stoves

There are several types of rocket (or jet, as they are also called) stoves.

Portable structures made from tin containers (paint cans, buckets, etc.). Excellent helpers on a construction site or on a hike, which can be made in just a few hours.
Furnaces made of refractory bricks and metal barrels, intended for heating heat-intensive masses. They are distinguished by a horizontal chimney installed underground and an external riser to provide draft.
Fully brick structures used for air floor heating. They consist of several chimney pipes at once.

Note! Due to the complexity of implementing the third option, only the first two will be considered in this article.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

IN in this case work traditionally begins with preparing everything necessary.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, drawing

Stage 1. Materials and equipment

For construction you will need:

fireclay brick;
steel barrel 200 l;
chimney pipe;
metal brush;
old barbecue;
fire resistant paint;
bayonet shovel;
expanded clay;
fittings;
adobe;
perlite;
cement mortar;
trowel. Making a jet furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 2. Preparation

Step 1. A pit is dug in the floor (if possible) approximately 30-50 cm deep. This is necessary so that the level of the horizontal chimney does not rise too much.

Step 2. The steel barrel will serve as a hood for the furnace. First, the barrel is fired and cleaned of soot with a wire brush, after which it is painted with fire-resistant paint.

Note! Paint is applied only after the chimney outlet flange has been installed.

Stage 3. Foundation

Step 1. Preparing the formwork for the future foundation.

Step 2. In the place where the firebox will be, several bricks are driven into the ground.

Step 3. Steel reinforcement is laid at the bottom.

Step 4. Bricks are laid level around the bottom point of the combustion chamber.

Step 5. The base is filled with concrete mortar.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 4. Masonry

After the solution has dried, you can begin laying the rocket stove.

Note! To do this, you need to use only refractory clay.

Step 1. On the first tier, the masonry rises up, leaving only a hole for the combustion chamber.

Step 2. At the second level, the lower channel of the furnace is formed.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Step 3. On the third, the channel is covered with masonry so that there are two holes - for the combustion chamber and the vertical channel.

Note! The bricks do not need to be hewn after laying - they will still have to be hidden with adobe and expanded clay.

Step 4. Preparation for laying the vertical channel. In addition to the barrel itself, this will require an old water heater of approximately 150 liters.

A flange is built into the barrel to connect the chimney. It is also advisable to install a tee here for cleaning the chimney.

Step 5. The ascending part of the structure is placed using the “boot” method. The internal cross-section of this part should be approximately 18 cm.

Step 6. A piece of water heater is placed on the ascending part, and the voids between the walls are filled with perlite. The upper part of the perlite is sealed with fireclay clay.

Step 7. The base of the furnace is lined with bags filled with sand, the base of the casing is coated with clay. The voids between the bags and the body are filled with expanded clay, after which the base is finished with the same clay.

Step 8. The chimney is connected, an inverted steel barrel is placed on the ascending part.

Step 9. A test run of the furnace is carried out, after which the barrel is painted with fire-resistant paint.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, diagram

Stage 5. Chimney lining

Step 1. The chimney is lined with sandbags and filled with expanded clay.

Step 2. The structure is given the appropriate shape using fireclay clay.

Note! A rocket stove requires a large amount of oxygen during operation, so it is recommended to install an air duct from the street.

All that remains is to install the old barbecue in the neck of the firebox and close it with a lid. The seams are sealed with clay. That's it, the brick rocket oven is ready for use.

A stove-bed built on the principle of a rocket stove

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, diagram

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, foundation

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Making a camping and garden stove

In this design, as in the one described above, the operating principle is to isolate the fire and direct the thermal energy to the right place.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To prepare a portable rocket stove you will need:

two tin containers of different diameters;
a couple of corners;
steel clamps ø10 cm;
stainless steel pipe for chimney;
fine crushed stone;
Bulgarian;
metal scissors. Making a camping and garden stove Making a camping and garden stove Making a camping and garden stove In the second bucket - the lower part of the rocket stove, we cut a hole for the pipe. We cut the metal into petals and bend it inside the bucket. for dishes From wire we bend the burner for dishes We heat the rocket stove

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

Step 1. A lid for the structure is made from a smaller bucket. To do this, a hole is made in it for the chimney (the cover is not removed). In this case, it is better to bend the “petals” inward - this way the pipe will be fixed more securely.

The lower half of the bucket is cut off with a grinder.

Step 2. A hole is cut in the bottom of another container to connect the firebox. The tin is cut into “petals” with scissors and bent inward.

Step 3. The forward flow is assembled from a pipe and a couple of corners. The pipe is then inserted into the bucket and connected there to the “petals” using a steel clamp. That's it, the forward flow of the rocket furnace is ready.

Step 4. The space between the direct flow and the walls of the bucket is filled with fine crushed stone. The latter will perform two functions in the design at once - thermal insulation and thermal accumulation.

Step 5. The second bucket (lid) is placed on the jet stove.

Step 6. A hotplate is bent from steel wire.

Note! Instead of a burner, you can install three bricks.

Step 7. All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Mini jet oven

Mini jet stove, kindling

Operating rules for rocket stoves

Rocket stoves, as well as other long-burning designs, need to be launched at warm pipe. And if for the second version of the stove this is not so important, then for the first, a cold chimney will only lead to wasted burning of fuel. For this reason, the structure needs to be preheated - heated with sawdust, paper, etc.

It is also worth noting that the jet stove is unable to self-adjust, so at first the vent opens completely, and closes only after the structure begins to hum strongly. Subsequently, the availability of oxygen gradually decreases.

About the rocket stove in the bathhouse

Jet wood stove with deck chair

Many people are probably interested in the question: is it possible to use a jet stove in a bathhouse? It would seem that it is possible, because it is quite easy to equip a heater on a tire.

In reality, such a design is not suitable for a bathhouse. For light steam, you first need to warm up the walls, and only then, after some time, the air. For the latter, the oven must be a center of convection and thermal radiation (IR). This is the problem - in a rocket furnace, convection is clearly distributed, and the design does not provide for losses due to thermal radiation at all.

DIY rocket oven

conclusions

Be that as it may, today in the manufacture of rocket stoves there is more intuition than real accurate calculations, therefore, this is an almost limitless field for creativity.

We also suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video instructions for making a rocket stove.

– Do-it-yourself jet stove

Source: //svoimi-rykami.ru/stroitelstvo-doma/pechi_i_mangaly/pech-raketa-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY long-burning brick rocket stove: drawing, instructions, photo

A rocket stove made of long-burning bricks, despite its simplicity of design, can solve a number of problems for owners of dachas and private houses. These include not only heating and cooking functions, but also the creation of an original interior and comfort in the room.

Principle of operation

During the thermal decomposition of solid organic fuel, gaseous substances are released, which also decompose and turn into wood gas during combustion, which has a high level of heat transfer during combustion.

In conventional solid fuel stoves, wood gas goes into the pipe along with the gas, where it cools and settles on the walls in the form of soot. In the oven missile type Due to the horizontal channel, the gases move more slowly, do not have time to cool, but burn out, giving off a large amount of heat.

In models of reactive heating devices complex design heated air and gas pass through a series of internal channels. Then they move to the upper part of the body, under the hob, where it burns completely. For such a rocket there is no need for additional boost. The draft in them is created by the chimney, and the longer its length, the more intense the upward flow.

Principle of operation

This diagram shows the operating principle of a rocket stove with a stove bench

Advantages and disadvantages

Long combustion rocket stoves have the following advantages:

high efficiency - at least 85%;
high speed of heating the room - 50 m² will become warm in less than 1 hour;
absence of soot - the exhaust during fuel combustion does not form soot, but is formed in the form of steam and carbon;
the ability to operate on solid fuel of any type;
low consumption - the fuel consumption of a rocket stove is 4 - 5 times less than a conventional stove under equal conditions: combustion time and heating temperature;
the possibility of installing a warm bed;
Duration of heat retention in a well-heated structure without adding fuel - up to 12 hours.

This stove has many advantages, but there are also disadvantages

The disadvantages include:

manual method of controlling a heating device - fuel burns out quickly and requires regular reporting;
the high heating temperature of some structural elements threatens owners with burns in case of accidental contact;
the heating speed does not allow the use of a rocket stove for baths;
the aesthetic component of such a device is not for everyone and is not suitable for every interior;
danger of carbon monoxide entering living rooms.

Materials

Do-it-yourself building materials for the construction of a long-burning rocket stove are selected depending on the calorific value of the fuel. For laying the main part of the body, a simple red one is usually used kiln brick. The firebox and combustion bunker are lined with fireclay bricks.

If you plan to use high-calorie fuel (for example, coal), then refractory bricks are used for the construction of almost all parts of the structure. The masonry elements are fastened with an aqueous solution of a mixture of sand and clay.

Regardless of the type of design for a long-burning rocket stove, you will need to buy stove accessories:

blower;
grates;
firebox doors;
intermediate cap;
chimney pipe.

Tools

To build a rocket-type furnace with your own hands, you need to prepare in advance a set of tools for work, which should consist of:

trowels for scooping and distributing the solution. It is more convenient to work with a tool with the handle moved slightly to the side;
picks or hammers - picks for trimming individual parts of brick;
grinders with a diamond blade for sawing whole blocks into quarters and halves;
mallets with a rubber tip for leveling bricks in masonry;
twisted cord - moorings;
building level;
square and tape measure;
shovels.

You also need to stock up on two containers for preparing mortar, concrete and metal mesh for sifting ingredients.

How to do it yourself?

Before you make a rocket stove, you need to decide on the location of its installation, the dimensions of the future design, and develop a diagram. The masonry technology itself is quite simple; any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket furnace can be built from 20 bricks per summer cottage and use it to heat food brought from home.

Selecting a location

Before starting construction, the first thing is to choose a location. It is recommended to place rocket-type brick stoves closer to the front door. In this case, after cleaning, the ash will not need to be carried across the entire room, which will have a positive effect on the overall dustiness of the room.

It is also desirable that at the point where the pipe exits there are no rafters located closer to the chimney than 40 cm. Moreover, the stove should not be adjacent to the external wall of the house, so that expensive heat is not lost to heating the street.

Preparation of the solution

Cement mortar will quickly crack under the influence of high temperatures, so for laying heating devices made of bricks, only a mortar consisting of clay and sand is used.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, strained, and then sand must be added. The resulting solution should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream. You can check its viscosity level in the following way:

place a wooden stick or trowel handle into the mixture;
remove the tool and shake well;
check the thickness of the adhering layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm add sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required thickness can fill all the unevenness of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Laying a rocket furnace of 20 bricks

Ordering a rocket stove for 20 bricks

Example of a brick rocket stove

Laying a rocket stove with a stove bench

A brick rocket stove, even equipped with a stove bench, has small sizes. The order shown in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without the use of metal products. Only the doors will be made of iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it a more rounded shape.

Row No.	Number of bricks, pcs.	Description of the masonry	Drawing
1	62	Forming the base of the furnace	(click to enlarge)
2	44	Formation of the base of channels for heating the bed along the entire structure. Fastening mortgages for mounting a cast iron door
3	44	Repeating the outline of the second row
4	59	Complete channel blocking. Beginning of the formation of a vertical smoke channel and firebox
5	60	Construction of a bed	(click to enlarge)
6	17	Continuation of the laying of the smoke channel
7	18
8	14
9; 10	14	Formation of a smoke channel	(click to enlarge)
11	13
12	11	Beginning of laying the chimney pipe. This is where the channel begins, through which the air from the hob will fall down to move to the stove bench
13	10	Completion of the formation of the surface for the hob. Laying an asbestos pad, which is covered with sheet steel.	(click to enlarge)
14; 15	5	Closing the chimney channel and forming a low wall between the stove bench and the hob.

After finishing masonry work The homemade rocket stove must be dried, carefully, heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the required amount of firewood is placed in the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30 - 40 minutes.

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until its outer surface is cleared of damp stains. Depending on the size of the device, drying may take from three to eight days. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Accelerating drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Finished look

You need to launch a brick rocket stove only when the chimney is warm. For a small device, this property is not so significant, and a larger stove on a cold pipe only wastes firewood.

Therefore, to bake a rocket before loading the fuel quota after a long break in operation, you need to heat it with paper, dry shavings, straw, etc., placing them in a ash pit with the door open. When the hum in the stove decreases in pitch or subsides, then you can load all the fuel into the firebox; it should ignite by itself from the existing fire.

A rocket stove with a stove bench is not a completely self-regulating device for external conditions and fuel energy efficiency. Therefore, at the beginning of the fire with the normal amount of fuel, the ash door is left in the open position. After the stove begins to hum strongly, it is covered until the sound emitted is barely audible.

Only dry firewood can be used to heat the stove; wet wood will not allow the stove to warm up to desired temperature, which can lead to backdraft.

Conclusion

The brick jet stove is becoming an increasingly popular heating device for small buildings, both temporary and permanent residence. This is explained by the simplicity of execution, low cost of material, duration battery life and high heat transfer of this design.

Rocket stoves are highly efficient and work great in mud and straw houses. Owners of these stoves claim an 80-90% reduction in wood consumption compared to heating the same space with a conventional metal wood stove. This is achieved by burning flammable gases and soot.

Unlike laying conventional stoves, which requires special skills and knowledge, a rocket stove can be assembled by any enthusiast. The only problem with such a project is the difficulty in obtaining permission because basically, not many officials know what a rocket heater is.

The main difference between a masonry heater and a rocket heater is that a rocket stove has an insulated J- or L-shaped combustion chamber, which causes the fire to move horizontally. The flame then hits the end of the chamber at a 90-degree angle, which causes strong turbulence, raising heat, creating a strong draft that maintains the intensity of the fire. The thermal riser is located inside a barrel or large secondary chamber that extends several centimeters above the internal riser. Hot gases rise and enter the upper part of the secondary chamber, give off some of the heat, and then fall down and to the sides through the channels.

The hood then directs the gases through chimneys, usually installed in the bench, which absorbs the last of the heat.

Today, clay is often used to create rocket heaters, but you are absolutely free to lay out the bench from brick, stone or tile.

The rocket stove has high efficiency. At the exit from the furnace, due to the high combustion temperatures in the furnace itself (900-1200 C), there is practically only carbon dioxide and water vapor. Soot burns at temperatures of 900 C and above. The rocket stove can be heated with recycled materials, wood scraps, pine cones, branches, corn stalks - the high combustion temperature with a massive supply of oxygen allows you to burn almost everything that is potentially combustible...

If the cap is not coated with clay, but left as is, then it will immediately transfer heat into the room. If you line it with clay or brick, it will retain heat longer after burning. permaculturedesign.fr

This rocket stove was made during a large training session on building straw and clay houses in February 2010 in Patagonia, Argentina. www.firespeaking.com

When a jet stove burns, it draws in air and draws the flame inward. You can throw long logs into the firebox that stick out at the top while the other end burns in the firebox. The wood is consumed gradually and without escaping smoke. This jet stove is from Juured in Estonia. www.juured.ee

This rocket stove was made in a house for sale. by Ernie and Erica Wisner.
ernieanderica.info/shop

The combustion chamber runs horizontally, the flames and gases shoot out at a 90-degree angle, and then the heat is thrown out under strong turbulence and creates a rocket effect to shoot the heat upward. The heat in the riser is usually less, the pipe is installed inside a large hood. The internal heat of the riser must be insulated, it creates a thermal differential that again increases the draft. The outlets and channels at the bottom are often lined with clay to retain the heat of the stove and allow the heat to slowly radiate out to warm the room.

A stunning rocket stove design created in Brussels. The tabletop is made of refractory cement, and the inside is refractory brick. Interior work here: flickriver.com

The firebox for wood is located to the right of the sink, and the stove is located to the right of the firebox.

The rocket furnace is made of stone. Written by Ernie and Erica. ernieanderica.blogspot.com

Rocket stove in the shaman center, France. To build such a stove it will take 3-4 people and about 3-4 days. ecologie-pratique.org

Rocket stove in a wooden house. Juured, Estonia.

Rocket stove in Samman house Oregon.
canadiandirtbags.wordpress.com

A jet stove will heat more than just a bench made of clay and straw for you. This is a flight of stairs sculpted by the Danish architect, mason and reed roof maker Fleming Abrahamsson.

This stylish clay bench with stove is from Flemming Abrahamsson, a Danish architect, mason and reed roofer. She is in no less. Such ovens are very efficient, the oven temperature ranges from 1000C to 1100C (this is not a place to keep a vase of flowers).

Rocket stoves are primarily used for cooking, as they do in the mountains of Guatemala. joachim2010.blogspot.com

Rocket stove, France. terre-et-flammes.fr

Rocket stove in the interior poeles-eco-09.com

Antique rocket stove finished with clay. The firebox is on the right, and the heated bench is behind. Ernie and Erica Wisner, more photos: plus.google.com

Sophisticated rocket stove from expert Kirk Mobert “Donkey”, sundogbuilders.net, donkey32.proboards.com

Here is another diagram of the operating principle of a rocket stove, very accessible.

And this is a store-bought version of the Dragon Heater's 6 metal rocket stove. The cost of such a stove is $1,450. www.dragonheaters.com

In order for the reactive furnace to operate efficiently, the following rules must be observed when installing the structure:

The chimney must be at least twice as long as the horizontal or inclined section.
The length of the fuel compartment must coincide with the horizontal section. Typically the firebox is installed at an angle of 45°, although there are designs with an angle of 90°. But they are less convenient in terms of fuel loading.
The cross-section of the chimney should not be smaller than the fuel compartment itself.

Device

Robinson factory camping stoves are made from a profile pipe with a cross-section of 150×100 mm. Homemade designs made the same size. In this case, the bunker is made of a profile pipe, and the chimney is made of a round one. In order for there to be normal draft, the chimney pipe must have a diameter no less than the cross-section of the firebox.

For this size of the fuel compartment, a chimney no longer than 90 cm is allowed. But such dimensions make the unit inconvenient for transportation, so it is better to limit it to a minimum of 60 cm.

A steel rod is used for the legs. They are threaded, making the supports easy to install and remove. However, after using the jet stove many times, it becomes quite sooty, so the process of screwing the legs is not very pleasant. However, other options are also common, where a steel sheet is used to make the stand or non-removable legs are installed. But this makes the structure larger and more inconvenient for transportation.

In Robinson factory ovens there is no provision for air supply to the combustion zone, and they also do not have an adjustable lid that changes air access. This point can be corrected in homemade ovens. A plate is welded inside the bunker for flammable substances, at the bottom of which there is a grate. Fuel is placed on a flat element. Air enters the combustion zone through the grate, and a damper can be installed at the top of the firebox, with which the air supply will be regulated. It is made somewhat smaller than the firebox and should not completely block the hole, otherwise air will stop flowing into the compartment and the fire will go out.

This design of a reactive furnace provides a number of advantages:

a small amount of solid fuel allows you to bring water to a boil in a short time, heat up food or cook simple dishes;
Robinson is not afraid of the wind, so the fire does not go out;
the jet stove is easy to install;
the device does not smoke or smoke;
factory models are made of high-quality metal and coated with heat-resistant paint that can withstand high temperatures;
fuel does not burn out too quickly;
the device allows you to dry firewood;
the design is stable and easy to use;
the rocket stove heats up quite quickly;
maximum surface temperature reaches 900 °C;
Thick steel (3.5 mm) ensures the durability of the device.

The price of the factory model is approximately 5 thousand rubles. But you can save money by making such a unit yourself. This task is doable if you have certain skills.

Manufacturing the Robinson stove

The simple design of the device allows you to make a rocket stove at home. The whole procedure will take only a few hours. It’s not difficult to find materials for the work, and you only need a few of them. The homemade unit is compact in size and easy to use.

The camping rocket stove is equipped with an important part that greatly facilitates the maintenance of the unit. This metal plate with grate, located at the bottom of the firebox. As a rule, it is made retractable, which allows you to remove the grate, put firewood on it and install it back. A similar plate also serves as a stand for long wood chips. In addition, with the grill removed, it is easier to clean the fuel compartment.

To make a reactive furnace with your own hands, you must use the following materials :

two square pipes 150×150×3 mm: one is 45 cm long, the second is 30 cm;
4 steel strips 300×50×3 mm;
2 steel strips 140×50×3 mm;
metal grid 300×140 mm (it can be made from a rod of the same material with a diameter of 3-5 mm and a length of 2.5 m).

The Robinson camping stove manufacturing technology includes the following operations:

DIY Robinson factory model

Manufacturing a rocket stove similar to that produced in factories is not challenging task. Structural elements there is not much in this model:

As for the dish stand, its configuration is not fundamentally important for the operation of the device. Therefore, this element can be done differently. In this case, it is important to follow the rule that the stand should not block the chimney opening, so as not to disrupt the draft.

In the model under consideration, 3 rings are cut in half and welded to a metal rod.

This design is more complicated than the previous one in that the cross-section of the box is rectangular, and the chimney is round. Therefore, it is important to correctly perform the operations of connecting two parts into one device. Generally The production technology is as follows:

It all starts with making a plate with a grid that will divide the bunker into two parts. To do this, pieces of reinforcement are welded to the flat element in increments of 10 mm.
The resulting part must be welded to the rear and side walls of the bunker. The distance from the bottom edge to the plate with the grid should be 30-35 mm. The part must be attached using a welding machine parallel to the bottom edge.
Then you need to carefully weld the joints of the walls together.
The bottom is attached to the resulting structure, and nuts are attached to it.
The top plate is welded to the back and side walls.
A cut at an angle of 30° is marked on the pipe. The unnecessary part is cut off.
The end that has acquired the shape of an oval must be attached to the upper section of the hopper. In this case, the pipe is placed at the very bottom of the upper plate and equidistant from the side walls. This element is outlined with a marker, and a hole is cut according to the markings. To do this, you can use a welding machine or a metal cutting device.
Then you need to attach a pipe to the resulting hole. A stand is installed on top of it, and the legs are screwed into the nuts. Now the rocket stove can be tested. After this, it is covered with heat-resistant paint.

Manufacturing a modernized Robinson furnace

The model described in the previous section can be improved with a door that is installed on the fuel hopper. But if you make the sash on hinges, it will simply tilt upward, which will not allow you to adjust the draft. Such a part can only be in the “closed” or “open” position. It will be much more effective to use a damper that moves vertically or horizontally. To install it, you need to weld small corners measuring 10x10 mm or 15x15 mm onto the hopper.

In addition, note the following options furnace upgrades:

the fuel hopper can be made of thicker steel, for example 5 mm;
replace the round chimney pipe with a square one;
for the stand, use a different design: as an option, take corners, balls or other elements that are at hand;
change the stand for the camping rocket stove, for which a metal plate and a piece of reinforcement can be used to make a leg.

To make a modernized stove, you will need the following: materials:

Square pipe with a cross-section of 160×160 mm and a length of 400 mm. The firebox will be made from it.
Square pipe with a cross-section of 120×120 mm and a length of 600 mm. It is needed to make a chimney.
A five-millimeter sheet of steel and a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 7-8 mm. The element separating the fuel compartment and the ash duct will be made from them. The size of the part should be 300×155 mm.
Steel sheet 350×180 mm. This material is necessary for the manufacture of a stove stand.
Steel sheet measuring 160×100 mm.

Production technology for this model of camping stove is not fundamentally different from creating similar structures:

A metal plate with a grate must be welded to the walls of the bunker.
Then the back of the container is attached, and the chimney is attached on top.
When the entire structure is ready, a metal stand is welded to it from below, and an additional support is made from a piece of reinforcement. You can also use part of the vertical pipe that remains after cutting.
Pieces of corners are welded on top of the vertical pipe, which will form a stand for dishes. Its height should be 40-50 mm.
The hole in the fuel tank must be closed with a hinged door or a flap inserted into the corners.
The finished product can be tested. If everything went well, the welds are cleaned and the reaction furnace is coated with heat-resistant paint. This will not only give the product a more attractive appearance, but will also protect the metal from corrosion.

Bottom line

We can conclude that any of the proposed models can be made quite easily at home. Find necessary materials won't be difficult. The work itself is not very difficult for someone who has used a welding machine more than once and has some experience working with metal. It only takes a few hours to make a rocket stove. And the resulting product will become a useful item for lovers of outdoor activities outside the city.

In addition, such a rocket stove will allow you to heat a small country house and will be a good alternative to a full-fledged heating system. The operating principle of the Robinson jet stove allows you to significantly save on fuel.

Let's say right away: the rocket stove is a simple and convenient heating and cooking device using wood fuel with good, but not exceptional parameters. Its popularity is explained not only by its catchy name, but moreover by the fact that it can be made with one’s own hands and not by a stove maker or even a mason; if necessary - literally in 15-20 minutes.

And also because, by investing a little more work, you can get a wonderful bed in your home without resorting to building a complex, expensive and bulky Russian or bell-type stove. Moreover, the very principle of the design of the rocket stove gives greater freedom to design and the manifestation of creativity.

Rocket stove - wood fuel device

But what is perhaps more remarkable is the “jet furnace” for the huge number of, at times, completely absurd inventions associated with it. Here, for example, are a few pearls snatched at random:

“The principle of operation of the furnace is the same as that of the MIG-25 ramjet engine.” Yes, the MIG-25 and its descendant MIG-31 did not even sit down in the bushes near the ramjet engine (ramjet engine), as they say. The 25th and 31st are powered by double-circuit turbojet engines (turbojet engines), four of which later pulled the Tu-144 and still power other vehicles. And any stove with any jet engine (RE) is technical antipodes, see below.
“Reverse jet thrust furnace.” Is the stove flying tail first, or what?
“How will she blow through such a pipe?” A non-pressurized oven does not blow into the chimney. On the contrary, the chimney draws from it, using natural draft. The higher the pipe, the better the pull.
“The rocket stove is a combination of a Dutch bell stove (sic!) with a Russian stove bench.” Firstly, there is a contradiction in the definition: a Dutch oven is a channel oven, and any bell-type oven is anything but a Dutch oven. Secondly, the bed of a Russian stove warms up completely differently than a rocket stove.

Note: in fact, the rocket stove was so nicknamed because in the wrong firing mode (more on that later), it makes a loud whistling hum. A properly tuned rocket stove whispers or rustles.

These and similar inconsistencies, understandably, confuse and prevent you from making a rocket stove properly. So let's figure out what the truth is about the rocket stove, and how to use this truth correctly so that this really good stove shows all its advantages.

Furnace or rocket?

For complete clarity, we still need to figure out why a stove cannot be a rocket, and a rocket cannot be a stove. Any RD is the same as an internal combustion engine, only the escaping gases themselves act as pistons, connecting rods with a crank and transmission. In a piston internal combustion engine, already at the moment of combustion, the high temperature of the working fluid creates a lot of pressure, which pushes the piston, and it moves all the mechanics. The movement of the piston is active, the working fluid pushes it to where it itself tends to expand.

When fuel is burned in the combustion chamber of the thruster, the thermal potential energy of the working fluid is immediately converted into kinetic energy, like that of a load falling from a height: since the outlet for hot gases is open to the nozzle, they rush there. In the RD, the pressure plays a subordinate role and nowhere exceeds the first tens of atmospheres; this, for any conceivable nozzle cross-section, is not enough to accelerate the migar to 2.5 M or launch a satellite into orbit. According to the law of conservation of momentum (amount of motion), the aircraft with a taxiway receives a push in the opposite direction (recoil impulse), this is jet thrust, i.e. thrust from recoil, reaction. In a turbofan engine, the second circuit creates an invisible air shell around the jet stream. As a result, the recoil impulse is, as it were, contracted in the direction of the thrust vector, so a turbofan engine is much more economical than a simple turbofan engine.

In a stove there is no conversion of energy types into each other, therefore it is not an engine. The stove simply distributes potential thermal energy properly in space and time. From the point of view of the furnace, an ideal RD has an efficiency = 0%, because it only pulls due to fuel. From the point of view of the jet engine, the stove has an efficiency of 0%, it only dissipates heat and does not draw at all. On the contrary, if the pressure in the chimney rises to or above atmospheric pressure (and without this, where will the jet thrust or active force come from?), the stove will at least smoke, or even poison the residents or start a fire. The draft in the chimney is without pressurization, i.e. without external energy consumption, it is ensured due to the temperature difference along its height. Potential energy here, again, is not converted into any other energy.

Note: in a rocket RD, fuel and oxidizer are supplied to the combustion chamber from the tanks, or they are refueled directly into it if the RD is powered by solid fuel. In a turbojet engine (TRE), the oxidizer - atmospheric air - is pumped into the combustion chamber by a compressor driven by a turbine in the exhaust gas flow, the rotation of which consumes some of the energy of the jet stream. In a turboprop engine (TVD), the turbine is designed so that it selects 80-90% of the jet power, which is transmitted to air propeller and compressor. In a ramjet engine (ramjet), the air supply to the combustion chamber is ensured by hypersonic speed pressure. A lot of experiments have been carried out on ramjet engines, but there have been no production aircraft with them, there are none, and there are no plans to do so, as ramjet engines are too capricious and unreliable.

Kan or not Kan?

Among the myths about the rocket stove, there are some that are not entirely absurd, and even somewhat justified. One of these misconceptions is the identification of the “racket” with the Chinese kan.

The author had the opportunity to visit the Amur region in winter, in the Blagoveshchensk region, as a child. Even then there were a lot of Chinese living in the villages there, fleeing in all directions from the cultural revolution of the Great Chairman Mao and his completely frostbitten Red Guards.

Winter in those parts is not like Moscow, frost of -40 is common. And what amazed and aroused interest in stoves in general was how Chinese fanzas were heated by canals. Firewood is transported to Russian villages by carts, and smoke comes out of the chimneys in a column. And all the same, in a hut made of logs not the size of a child’s girth, by morning the corners from the inside were frozen. And the fanza is built like a country house (see picture), the windows are covered with fish bladder or even rice paper, bunches of wood chips or twigs are placed in the can, but the room is always warm.

However, there are no subtle thermal engineering wisdom in the can. This is an ordinary one, only small, kitchen stove with a lower exit into the chimney, and most of the chimney itself is a long horizontal channel, a hog, on which a stove bench is located. Chimney, fire safety for the sake of – outside the building.

The effectiveness of the can is determined primarily by the thermal curtain it creates: the couch goes around, if not the entire perimeter from the inside, except for the door, then certainly 3 walls. Which once again confirms: the design and parameters of the stove must be linked to those of the heated room.

Note: the Korean ondol stove operates on the principle of a warm floor - a very low stove occupies almost the entire area of the room.

Secondly, in the very cold, the Kans were drowned with argal - the dried droppings of ruminant animals, domestic and wild. Its calorific value is quite high, but argal burns slowly. In fact, an argal fire is already a long-burning stove.

It is not the Russian custom to keep sticking twigs into the oven, and our men disdained to cook food in cattle feces. But travelers of the past highly valued argal as a fuel; they collected it along the way and took it with them, carefully protecting it from getting wet. N. M. Przhevalsky in one of his letters stated that without argal he would not have been able to conduct his expeditions along Central Asia without loss. And the British, who disdained argal, had 1/3-1/4 of the detachments’ personnel returning to base. True, he was recruited from sepoys, Indian soldiers in English service, and pandits - spies recruited from the local population. One way or another, the highlight of the rocket stove is not at all the bed on the hog. To get to it, you will have to learn to think like an American: all the primary sources on the rocket furnace are from there, and utter speculation is generated only and only by misunderstanding.

How to deal with rockets?

With our view of things, it is necessary to study the original technical documentation of rocket stoves with caution, but not at all because of inches-millimeters, liters-gallons and the intricacies of American technical jargon. Although they also mean a lot.

Note: a textbook example is “Naked conductor runs under the carriage.” Literary translation - a naked conductor runs under the carriage. And in the original Petroleum Engineer article, this meant “Bare wire runs under the crane trolley.”

The rocket stove was invented by members of survival societies - people with a unique way of thinking, even by American standards. In addition, they were not bound by any standards and norms, but, like all Americans, they automatically always converted everything into money, taking into account their own benefit; a person with a different worldview simply will not get along in America. And instinctive self-interest inevitably gives rise to egocentrism. He by no means excludes good deeds, but not out of spiritual impulse, but with the expectation of dividends. Not in this life, so in that one.

Note: How afraid the average citizen of the greatest empire in history is of everything can only be understood by talking to them long enough. And sociopsychologists go out of their way to convince you that living in fear is normal and even cool. The rationale is clear: intimidated biomass is easily predictable and manageable.

Without heating and cooking, of course, you cannot survive. What is a stove for? For the time being, the survivors were content camping stoves. But then, according to the Americans themselves, in 1985-86. they were greatly impressed by two films that were released with a short interval and triumphantly went around all the screens of the world: the Soviet science fiction parody of the entire human race “Kin-dza-dza” and the Hollywood “The Day After”, about the global nuclear war.

The survivors realized that after the nuclear winter there would be no extreme romance, but there would be the planet Plyuk in the Kin-dza-dza galaxy. The newly-minted plukans will have to be content with “ka-tse” in small quantities, bad, expensive and difficult to obtain. Yes, in case anyone hasn’t watched “Kin-dza-dza” - ka-tse in Plyukan style, a match, a measure of wealth, prestige and power. It was necessary to come up with your own furnace; none of the existing ones are designed for post-nuclear blast.

Americans are very often endowed with a sharp mind, but a deep mind is found as a rare exception. A completely normal US citizen with an IQ above average may sincerely not understand how it is that someone else does not get what he himself has already “caught up with” and how someone else may not like what suits him.

If an American has already understood the essence of the idea, then he brings the product to its possible perfection - what if a buyer is found, you can’t sell raw iron. But technical documentation, which looks beautiful and neat, can be drawn up extremely carelessly, or even deliberately distorted. What's wrong with this, this is my know-how. Maybe I'll sell it to someone. Either there will be a trick or not, but for now know-how costs money. In America, such an attitude to business is considered quite honest and worthy, but there, a clinical alcoholic at work as a stopper would never miss a job and wouldn’t take a couple of bolts home for the farm. That, in general, is what all of America stands for.

And Russian breadth of soul is also a double-edged sword. Most often, just from the sketch, our master immediately understands how this thing works, but in the details he turns out to be careless and overly trusting of the source code: how is it for a fellow craftsman to deceive his own man. If something isn’t there, well, it’s not necessary. It seems clear how everything is spinning there - my hands are already itching. And then, perhaps, until it comes to the hammer, chisel and accompanying literature, still counting and counting. Moreover, important points can be omitted, veiled or deliberately incorrect.

Note: an American acquaintance once asked the author of this article - how did we, really stupid ones, choose the very smart Reagan as president? And you, who are really smart, tolerate a slobbering senile with dyed eyebrows in the Kremlin? True, then in America no one in a bad dream would have dreamed that in the next century a black citizen with a Muslim name would be installed in the Oval Office, and his first lady would dig up a vegetable garden near the White House and begin to grow turnips there. Times is changing, as Bob Dylan once sang for a completely different reason...

Sources of misunderstandings

There is such a thing in technology - the square-cube law. Simply, when the size of something changes, its surface area changes by the square, and its volume changes by the cube. Most often this means changing the overall dimensions of the product according to the principle of geometric similarity, i.e. You can't just keep the proportions. In relation to solid fuel stoves, the square-cube law is doubly valid, because the fuel also obeys it: it releases heat from the surface, and its reserve is contained in the volume.

Note: a consequence of the square-cube law - any specific stove design has a certain permissible range of its size and power, within which the specified parameters are ensured.

Why, for example, can’t you make a potbelly stove the size of a refrigerator and with a power of about 50-60 kilowatts? Because a potbelly stove, in order for it to provide any heat, must itself be heated inside to at least 400-450 degrees. And in order to warm up the volume of the refrigerator to such a temperature at a given heat transfer, you need as much firewood or coal as will not fit in it. A mini-potbelly stove will also be of no use: the heat will escape through the outer surface of the stove, which has grown relative to its volume, and the fuel will not release more of it than it can.

The square-cube law applies threefold to the rocket stove, because she is “polished” in an American professional way. With our kondachka it is better to stay away from her. For example, here in Fig. an American development, which, judging by its demand, many of our craftsmen take as a prototype.

Original drawing of a mobile rocket oven

The fact that the exact type of fire clay is not indicated here will be sorted out by ours. But, to be honest, who noticed that, judging by the absence of an external chimney and the presence of transportation holes (carrying pipe), this stove is mobile with an open firebox? And most importantly - the fact that her drum used a 20-gallon barrel with a diameter of 17 inches (431 mm with change)?

Judging by the designs from the RuNet - no one at all. They take this thing and adjust it according to the principle of geometric similarity to a domestic 200-liter barrel with a diameter of 590 mm on the outside. Many people think of setting up a ash pit, but the bunker is left open. The exact proportions of vermiculite and perlite for lining the riser and molding the furnace body (core) are not specified? We make the lining homogeneous, although from what follows it will be clear that it should consist of an insulating and accumulating part. As a result, the stove roars, it only eats dry fuel, and a lot of it, and before the end of the season it becomes covered in smoke inside.

How was the rocket stove born?

So, without science fiction and futurology, the survivalists needed a stove to heat the house, working with high efficiency on low-quality random wood fuel: wet wood chips, twigs, bark. Which, in addition, will need to be reloaded without stopping the furnace. And it most likely won’t be possible to dry it in a woodshed. Heat transfer after heating is needed for at least 6 hours to get enough sleep; getting burned in your sleep on Plyuk is no better than in America. Additional conditions: the design of the furnace should not contain complex metal products, non-metallic materials and components that require production equipment for manufacturing, and the furnace itself must be accessible for construction by an unskilled worker without the use of power tools and complex technologies. Of course, no supercharging, electronics or other energy dependencies.

They immediately took a bed from the kana, but what about the fuel? For a bell-type furnace, it requires high quality. Long-burning stoves even operate on sawdust, but only dry ones, and do not allow stopping with additional loading. They were nevertheless taken as a basis; the high efficiency achieved by simple methods was very attractive. But in attempts to make “long stoves” work on bad fuel, another circumstance became clear.

What is wood gas?

The high efficiency of long-burning furnaces is achieved largely due to the afterburning of pyrolysis gases. Pyrolysis is the thermal decomposition of solid fuel into volatile combustible substances. As it turned out (and the survivors have their own research centers with highly qualified specialists), the pyrolysis of wood fuel, especially wet wood, continues for quite a long time in the gas phase, i.e. The pyrolysis gases that have just been released from the wood still require quite a lot of heat to form a mixture that can burn out completely. This mixture was called wood gas.

Note: in RuNet, woodgas has created further confusion, because... in American vernacular gas can mean any fuel, cf. eg gas station - gas station, gas station. When translating primary sources without knowing American technical knowledge, it turned out that woodgas is simply wood fuel.

Before that, no one had seen wood gas: in conventional stoves it is formed immediately in the firebox, due to the excess energy of flaming combustion. The designers of long-burning furnaces came to the conclusion that the primary air needs to be heated, and the exhaust gases must be retained in a significant volume over a large mass of fuel, simply by trial and error, so they also overlooked wood gas.

This was not the case when burning bundles of twigs: here the draft immediately pulled the primary pyrolysis gases into the chimney. Wood gas could have formed in it at some distance from the firebox, but by that time the primary mixture had cooled, pyrolysis stopped, and heavy radicals from the gas settled on the walls of the chimney as soot. Which quickly tightened the channel completely; Hobbyists who build rocket stoves at random are familiar with this phenomenon. But the survival researchers eventually realized what was going on, and still made the necessary stove.

Who are you, the Rocket Stove?

There is an unspoken rule in technology: if it seems that it is impossible to create a device according to the given requirements, then, smart guy, read your school textbooks. That is, go back to basics. In this case, to the basics of thermodynamics. Survivors do not suffer from sick pride; they turned to the basics. And they found the main operating principle of their furnace, which has no analogues in others: slow adiabatic afterburning of pyrolysis gases in a weak flow. In long-burning furnaces, afterburning is equilibrium isothermal, requiring a large buffer volume subject to the square-cube law and an energy reserve in it. In pyrolysis gases in the afterburner expand almost adiabatically, but almost into the free volume. And now we are learning to think like an American.

How does a rocket stove work?

A diagram of the final fruit of the survivors' labors is shown on the left side of Fig. Fuel is loaded vertically into the bunker (Fuel Magazine) and burns, gradually settling down. Air enters the combustion zone through the ash pan (Air Intake). The blower should provide excess air so that it is enough for afterburning. But not excessively, so that the cold air does not cool the primary mixture. With vertical loading of fuel and a blind hopper lid, the flame itself acts as a regulator, although not very effective: when it gets too hot, it pushes out the air.

Construction of rocket furnaces

Then things begin to become non-trivial. We need to warm up, and with good efficiency, large oven. The square-cube law does not allow it: the meager heat will immediately dissipate so much that pyrolysis will not reach the end, and the thermal gradient from the inside to the outside will not be enough to transfer heat into the room; everything will whistle down the pipe. This law is harmful, you can’t break it in the forehead. Okay, let's look at the basics to see if there is anything there that is beyond his control.

Well, yes, there is. The same adiabatic process, i.e. thermodynamic without heat exchange with environment. There is no heat exchange - the squares rest, and the cubes can be reduced either to a thimble or to a skyscraper.

Let's imagine a volume of gas completely isolated from everything else. Let's say energy is released in it. Then the temperature and pressure will begin to increase until the energy release stops and freeze at a new level. Great, we have completely burned the fuel, hot flue gases can be released into a heat exchanger or heat accumulator. But how to do this without technical difficulties? And most importantly, how to supply air for afterburning without violating the adiabatics?

And we will make the adiabatic process nonequilibrium. How? Let the primary gases immediately from the combustion source go into a pipe covered with high-quality insulation with a low intrinsic heat capacity (Insulation). Let’s call this pipe a fire tube or a combustion tunnel (Burn Tunnel), but we won’t sign it (know-how! If you don’t catch up, give us money for drawings and consultations! Without theory, of course. Who sells fixed capital at retail.) On the diagram, so that not accused of “opacity”, let’s denote it with flame.

Along the length of the flame tube, the adiabatic index changes (this is a nonequilibrium process): the temperature first drops slightly (wood gas is formed), then increases sharply, and the gas burns out. You can release it into the accumulator, but we forgot - what gases will be pulled through the flame tube? Supercharging means energy dependence, and there will not be an exact adiabatic, but something mixed with an isobar, i.e. efficiency will drop.

Then we will lengthen the pipe by half, maintaining the insulation, so that the heat does not go away in vain. We bend the “idle” half up, making the insulation on it weaker; We’ll think about how to preserve the heat seeping through it a little later. IN vertical pipe There will be a temperature difference in height, and, therefore, draft. And a good one: the thrust force depends on the temperature difference, and with an average temperature in the flame tube of about 1000 degrees, it is not difficult to achieve a difference of 100 at a height of about 1 m. So, while we have made a small, economical stove-stove, now we need to think about how to use its heat.

Yes, it doesn’t hurt to further encrypt it. If we call the vertical part of the flame tube a primary or internal chimney, then they will guess the main idea, but we are not the smartest in the world. Well... let's call the primary chimney the most common technical term for vertical pipes with rising current - a riser. Purely American: correct and unclear.

Now let's remember about heat transfer after heating. Those. we need a cheap, always available and very capacious heat accumulator. There is nothing to invent here; adobe (Thermal Mass) was invented by the primitives. But it is not fire-resistant, it does not hold more than 250 degrees, and at the mouth of the riser we have about 900.

It is not difficult to convert high-potential heat into medium-potential heat without losses: you need to give the gas the opportunity to expand in an isolated volume. But, if you leave the expansion adiabatic, then the volume needed is too large. This means it is material and labor intensive.

I had to go back to basics again: immediately after leaving the riser, let the gases expand at constant pressure, isobarically. This requires heat removal to the outside, about 5-10% of the thermal power, but it will not be lost and will even be useful for quickly warming up the room during the morning fire. And further along the flow of gases – cooling is isochoric (in a constant volume); Thus, almost all the heat will go into the battery.

How to do this technically? Let's cover the riser with a thin-walled iron drum (Steel Drum), which will also prevent heat loss from the riser. The “drum” turns out to be a bit high (the riser sticks out a lot), but it doesn’t matter: we will coat it 2/3 of the height with the same adobe. We attach a stove bench with an airtight chimney (Airtight Duct), an external chimney (Exhaust Vent), and the stove is almost ready.

Note: the riser and the drum covering it look like a stove hood above an upward-extended heil. But the thermodynamics here, as we see, are completely different. It is useless to try to improve a bell-type stove by building on it - only extra material and work will go away, and the stove will not get any better.

It remains to solve the problem of cleaning the channel in the bed. To do this, the Chinese have to break down the kan from time to time and wall it up again, but we are not in the 1st century. BC. We live when kan was invented. We will install a secondary ash pit (Secondary Airtight Ash Pit) with a sealed cleaning door immediately after the drum. Due to the sharp expansion and cooling in it flue gases everything in them that has not burned out immediately condenses and settles. This ensures the cleanliness of the external chimney for years.

Note: the secondary cleaning will have to be opened once or twice a year, so you don’t have to bother with the valve loops. Let's just make a lid from a metal sheet with screws and a mineral cardboard gasket.

Small rocket

The next task of the designers was to create a small continuous combustion stove on the same principle for cooking food in the warm season. During the heating season, the drum cover (Optional Cooking Surface) of a large oven is suitable for cooking; it heats up to about 400 degrees. The small rocket stove had to be portable, but it was permissible to make it with an open firebox, because when it's warm, you can cook on outdoors or under a canopy.

Here the designers took revenge on the square-cube law by making it work for themselves: they combined the fuel bunker with the blower, see Fig. at the beginning of the section on the right. This cannot be done in a large furnace; precise adjustment of the furnace mode as the fuel settles (see below) will be impossible.

Here, the volume of incoming primary air (Primary Air) turns out to be small relative to the area of heat release and the air can no longer cool the primary mixture until pyrolysis stops. Its supply is regulated by a slot in the hopper lid (Cover Lid). The hopper, inclined at 45 degrees, optimizes the automatic adjustment of oven power for standard culinary procedures, but it is more difficult to make.

Secondary air for afterburning wood gas in a small stove enters through additional holes in the mouth of the riser or simply leaks under the burner if a cooking vessel is placed on it. If the small stove is close to the maximum size (about 450 mm in diameter), then for complete afterburning you may need an Optional Secondary Woodgas Frame).

Note: it is impossible to supply secondary air to the mouth of the riser of a large furnace through holes in the drum (which would increase the efficiency of the furnace). Although the pressure in the entire gas and smoke path is lower than atmospheric, as it should be in a furnace, due to strong turbulence, flue gases will be emitted into the room. This is where their kinetic energy, which is harmful to the furnace, comes into play; This is perhaps the only thing that a rocket stove has in common with a jet engine.

The small rocket stove revolutionizes the classroom camping stoves, especially tourists. A wood chip stove (Bond stove in the West) will help you cook a stew or wait out a snowstorm in a one- or two-person tent, but it won’t save a group caught in a spring hike by belated bad weather. A small rocket stove is only slightly larger; it can be quickly made out of nothing, but is capable of developing power up to 7-8 kW. However, we’ll talk about rocket stoves made from just about anything later.

Also, the small rocket stove gave rise to many improvements. For example, Gabriel Apostol provided it with a separate blower and a wide bunker. The result was a stove suitable for constructing a compact and fairly powerful water heater, see the video below. The large rocket oven was also modified, we will talk about this a little at the end, but for now we will focus on more significant things.

Video: water heater based on a rocket stove designed by Gabriel Apostol

How to sink a rocket?

A rocket stove with long-burning stoves have a common property: they need to be launched only onto a warm pipe. For a small one this is unimportant, but a large one on a cold chimney will only burn fuel in vain. Therefore, before loading standard fuel into the bunker after a long break in the firebox and kindling, a large rocket stove needs to be accelerated - fired with paper, straw, dry shavings, etc., they are placed in an open ash pit. The end of acceleration is judged by a change in the tone of the furnace hum or its subsidence. Then you can load fuel into the bunker, and it will ignite automatically from the booster fuel.

The rocket stove, unfortunately, is not one of the stoves that is completely self-adjusting to fuel quality and external conditions. At the beginning of combustion of standard fuel, the ash door or hopper lid in a small furnace is opened completely. When the stove starts to hum loudly, cover it “to the point of a whisper.” Further, during the combustion process, it is necessary to gradually cover the access of air, guided by the sound of the stove. Suddenly the air damper slammed shut for 3-5 minutes - no big deal, if you open it, the stove will light up again.

Why such difficulties? As the fuel burns, the flow of air into the combustion zone increases. When there is too much air, the furnace explodes, but do not rejoice: now the excess air cools the primary gas mixture, and the sound intensifies because the stable vortex in the riser is knocked into a chaotic lump. Pyrolysis in the gas phase is interrupted, no wood gases are formed, the furnace consumes too much fuel, and a deposit of soot cemented with bituminous particles settles in the riser. Firstly, this is a fire hazard, but most likely it won’t lead to a fire; the riser channel will quickly become completely overgrown with carbon deposits. How to clean it if you have a non-removable drum cover?

In a large furnace, a spontaneous change of mode occurs abruptly, when the top of the sticks drops to the bottom edge of the hopper, and in a small furnace - gradually, as the fuel mass settles. Since an experienced housewife does not leave it for a long time when cooking on the stove, the designers considered it possible to combine a bunker with a blower in it for the sake of compactness.

This trick will not work with a large stove: the high riser pulls very hard, and the air gap needs to be so thin (and it also needs to be adjusted) that it is impossible to achieve a stable stove mode. It’s easier with a separate blower: it’s easier for the air to flow around the sides of a mass of fuel that is round in cross-section, and a flame that gets too hot pushes it there. The stove turns out to be self-regulating to some extent; however, within very small limits, so you still have to manipulate the blower door from time to time.

Note: it is impossible to make a bunker for a large oven for the sake of simplicity without a tight lid, as is often done. Due to the unregulated additional air flow through the fuel mass, it is unlikely to be possible to achieve stable operation of the furnace.

Materials, sizes and proportions, lining

Now let's see what a homemade rocket stove should look like from the materials available to us. Here, too, we need to be careful: not everything that is at hand in America is what we have, and vice versa.

Of what?

For a large stove with a stove bench, more or less reliable experimental data is available for products with a drum from a 55-gallon drum with a diameter of 24 inches. 55 gallons is 208-odd liters, and 24 inches is almost exactly 607 mm, so our 200-liter is quite suitable without additional conversion. While maintaining the oven parameters, the diameter of the drum can be halved, to 300 mm, which makes it possible to make it from 400-450 mm tin buckets or a household gas cylinder.

The ash pit, bunker, firebox and riser will use pipes of different sizes, see below, round or profile. This way it will be possible to make an insulating lining of the firebox from a mixture of equal parts of stove clay and crushed fireclay, without resorting to brickwork; We’ll talk about the riser lining in more detail below. Combustion in a rocket furnace is weak, therefore the thermochemistry of gases is gentle and the thickness of the steel of all metal parts, except for the gas pipeline in the stove bench, is from 2 mm; the latter can be made from a thin-walled metal corrugated sheet, here the flue gases are already completely exhausted both in terms of chemistry and temperature.

For external coating, the best heat accumulator is adobe. If the dimensions indicated below are observed, the heat transfer of a rocket stove in adobe after combustion can reach 12 hours or more. The remaining parts (doors, covers) are made of galvanized metal, aluminum, etc., with sealing gaskets made of mineral cardboard. Conventional stove fittings are not suitable, it is difficult to ensure their tightness, and a cracked rocket stove will not work properly.

Note: it is advisable to equip the rocket stove with a view in the external chimney. Although the gas vent in the high riser seals the overall smoke path tightly, strong winds outside can suck the heat out of the bench prematurely.

Dimensions and proportions

The basic calculated values to which the rest are tied are the drum diameter D and its internal cross-sectional area S. Everything else, based on the size of the available iron, is determined as follows:

Drum height H – 1.5-2D.
Drum coating height – 2/3H; For the sake of design, the edge of the coating can be made oblique and curved, then 2/3H must be maintained on average.
The thickness of the drum coating is 1/3D.
Riser cross-sectional area – 4.5-6.5% of S; It's better to stay within 5-6% of S.
The height of the riser is the larger the better, but the gap between its edge and the drum tire must be at least 70 mm; its minimum value is determined by the viscosity of the flue gases.
The length of the flame tube is equal to the height of the riser.
The cross-sectional area of the flame tube (fire duct) is equal to that of the riser. It is better to make the fire duct from a square corrugated pipe, so the furnace mode will be more stable.
The cross-sectional area of the blower is 0.5 of its own firebox and riser. A more stable furnace mode and its smooth adjustment will be provided by a rectangular corrugated pipe with sides 2:1, laid flat.
The volume of the secondary ash pan is from 5% of the original volume of the drum (excluding the volume of the riser) for a stove from a barrel to 10% of the same for a stove from a cylinder. Interpolation for intermediate drum sizes is linear.
The cross-sectional area of the external chimney is 1.5-2S.
The thickness of the adobe cushion under the external chimney is 50-70 mm; if the channel is round, it is counted from its lowest point. If the bed is on wooden floors, the pillow under the chimney can be halved.
The height of the coating of the stove bench above the external chimney is from 0.25D for a 600 mm drum to 0.5D for a 300 mm drum. You can do less, but then the heat transfer after heating will be shorter.
The height of the external chimney is from 4 m.
The permissible length of the gas duct in the bed - see next. section

The maximum thermal power of a rocket stove made from a barrel is approximately 25 kW, and a stove made from a gas cylinder is about 15 kW. The power can be adjusted only by the size of the fuel load. By supplying air, the oven is put into operation, and nothing more!

Note: in the original survivalist stoves, the riser cross-section was taken at 10-15% S based on very wet fuel. Then, there, in America, rocket stoves with a bench for bungalows appeared, designed for air-dry fuel and more economical. In them, the riser cross-section is reduced to the recommended ones and here it is 5-6% S.

Riser lining

The efficiency of a rocket stove largely depends on the thermal insulation of the riser. But American lining materials, alas, are not available to us. In terms of reserves of high-quality refractories, the United States has no equal; there they are considered strategic raw materials and are sold even to trusted allies with caution.

From our available materials according to heating engineering, they can be replaced with light fireclay bricks of the ShL brand and ordinary self-excavated river sand with a large admixture of alumina, correctly laid, see below. However, these materials are porous; in the oven they will quickly become saturated with carbon deposits. Then the oven will roar with any air supply, with all that follows. Therefore, we need to surround the riser lining with a metal shell, and the end of the lining must be covered with oven clay.

Lining diagrams for 3 types of furnaces are shown in Fig. The point here is that as the size of the drum decreases, the share of its direct heat transfer through the bottom and unlined part increases according to the square-cube law. Therefore, while maintaining the desired thermal gradient in the riser, the lining power can be reduced. This makes it possible to correspondingly increase the relative cross-section of the annular lowering of the flue gases in the drum.

Schemes of riser lining in rocket furnaces

For what? Firstly, the requirements for the external chimney are reduced, because The external rod now pulls better. And since it pulls better, then the permissible length of the hog in the bed drops more slowly than the size of the stove. As a result, if a stove from a barrel heats a stove bench with a length of up to 6 m, then a stove made from a cylinder is half as long - 4 m.

How to line with sand?

If the riser lining is fireclay, then the residual cavities are simply filled with construction sand. There is no need to carefully prepare a river self-dug for lining entirely from sand; just select large debris. But they pour it in layers, in 5-7 layers. Each layer is compacted and sprayed until a crust forms. Then the entire backfill is dried for a week, the top edge is covered with clay, as already mentioned, and the construction of the furnace continues.

Balloon rocket

From the above, it is clear that it is more profitable to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder: less work, there are fewer unsightly parts in sight, and the stove warms up almost the same. A thermal curtain or a warm floor in Siberian frost will heat a room of 50 square meters with a power of 10-12 kW. m or more, so here, too, a balloon rocket turns out to be more profitable; a large barrel will rarely have to be launched at full power with maximum efficiency.

The craftsmen apparently understood this too; at least some. For example, here in Fig. – drawings of a balloon furnace-rocket. On the right is the original; the author seems to have wisely understood the initial developments and, in general, everything turned out right for him. On the left are the necessary improvements taking into account the use of air-dry fuel and heating the bed.

Drawings of a rocket stove from a gas cylinder

A fruitful idea is a separate supply of heated secondary air. The furnace will be more economical and the fire tube can be made shorter. The cross-sectional area of its air duct is about 10% of the riser cross-section. The oven always operates with the secondary completely open. First, the mode is set by the primary valve; Precisely adjust with the hopper lid. At the end of the firebox, the stove will roar, but here it’s not so scary; to clean the riser, the author of the design provides a removable drum cover. It, of course, must have a seal.

Rockets made from anything

Canning

Scheme of a rocket stove made from cans

Tourists, hunters and fishermen (many of them members of survival societies) soon adapted the small rocket stove into a camp stove made from empty tins. It was possible to reduce the influence of the square-cube to a minimum by using horizontal fuel supply, see the diagram on the right. True, at the cost of some inconvenience: the sticks need to be pushed inward as they burn out. But the furnace mode began to hold fast. How? Due to the automatic redistribution of air flows through the plenum and over/through the fuel. The power of a can rocket stove lies in the range of 0.5-5 kW depending on the size of the stove and is regulated by approximately three times the amount of fuel loading. The basic proportions are also simple:

The diameter of the combustion chamber (combustion chamber) is 60-120 mm.
The height of the combustion chamber is 3-5 times its diameter.
The cross-section of the blower is 0.5 from its own combustion chamber.
The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is not less than the diameter of the combustion chamber.

These proportions are very approximate: changing them by half does not prevent the stove from working, and efficiency on a hike is not so important. If the insulation is made of wet sandy loam, as described above, the joints of the parts can simply be coated with clay (left position in the figure below). Then, after 1-2 fires, the stove will acquire strength that allows it to be transported without special precautions. But in general, any available insulation will do non-combustible materials, next two pos. A burner of any design must provide free air flow, 3rd position. A rocket furnace welded from a steel sheet (right position) with sand insulation is twice as light and more economical than a potbelly stove the same power.

Compact rocket stoves

Brick

Rocket stove made from broken bricks

We will not talk about large stationary rocket furnaces: in them all the original thermodynamics are in tatters, and they are deprived of one of the main advantages of the original furnace - ease of construction. We'll tell you a little about rocket stoves made from brick, clay or stone fragments, which can be made in 5-20 minutes when you don't have tins at hand.

Here, for example (see the video below), is a thermodynamically complete rocket oven made of 16 bricks laid dry. The voice acting is in English, but everything is clear even without words. A similar one can be built from fragments of brick (see figure), cobblestones, or sculpted from clay. A stove made from rich earth is enough for one time. The efficiency of all of them is not so great, the height of the combustion chamber is too small, but it is enough for pilaf or to quickly warm up.

Video: rocket oven made of 16 bricks (eng)

New material

Diagram of the Shirokov-Khramtsov furnace

Among the domestic developments, the Shirokov-Khramtsov rocket stove deserves attention (see figure on the right). The authors, not caring about survival in the splash, used modern material– heat-resistant concrete, adjusting all thermodynamics to it. The components of reinforced concrete are not cheap; a concrete mixer is needed for mixing. But its thermal conductivity is much lower than that of most other refractories. The new rocket stove began to work more stable, and it became possible to release some of the heat outside in the form of infrared radiation through heat-resistant glass. The result was a rocket stove - a fireplace.

Do rockets fly in a bathhouse?

Wouldn't a rocket stove be suitable for a sauna? It seems like you can build a heater on the drum cover. Or a flow one instead of a bed.

Unfortunately, the rocket stove is not suitable for a bathhouse. To obtain light steam, the sauna stove should immediately warm up the walls with thermal (IR) radiation, and immediately, or a little later, the air, by convection. To do this, the oven must be a compact source of infrared and a convection center. Convection from a rocket furnace is distributed, and it provides little IR at all; the very principle of its design excludes significant losses due to radiation.

In conclusion: to the rocket makers

Successful designs of rocket stoves still rely more on intuition than on precise calculations. Therefore, good luck to you too! – the rocket stove is a fertile field for craftsmen with a creative streak. Published

Nowadays, many stoves have been created that use wood as fuel. A special place among them is occupied by the so-called rocket (rocket) units, which have specific features that are indispensable in certain operating conditions. Let's talk about them.

The rocket is a real miracle unit!

The rocket stove is a heating and cooking system that operates on wood, is famous for its high technical performance and has a simple design. The operating principle of such a long-burning unit is based on the fact that the gases formed during fuel combustion enter a special bell, in which they burn completely. Due to this, the temperature of the stove increases significantly, and the pressure decreases. Moreover, soot does not form in the reactive heating system.

The combustion cycles of heated gases are repeated constantly (while the stove is heating). This causes the system to enter maximum thrust mode. Its specific value is determined by the characteristics of the homemade unit. If the heating device is assembled truly correctly, the temperature in its hood can reach 1200 °C. In this case, all the fuel used is burned without any residue. It is also important that the heated cap can be used as a hob. You can dry fruits, heat water, and cook food on it.

Initially, the stove we were interested in was designed for use in difficult (for example, camping) conditions. Because of this, special requirements were put forward for its design. The result is a unique unit that:

makes it possible to cook food in areas where there is no gas or electricity;
heats the room efficiently;
retains heat for 6–8 hours (minimum) after the wood burns out;
has a high efficiency;
quite safe to use.

In addition, the rocket has a design that allows you to add a new portion of firewood to the firebox without stopping the combustion process. The operation of a unit with such capabilities, of course, appeals to any person. This determines the high popularity of the described heating systems both among lovers of outdoor activities and among ordinary summer residents who need unpretentious and efficient stoves.

Important point. If you plan to create the simplest jet unit with your own hands, it can only be heated with dry wood. Damp wood can cause backdraft. However, it is not recommended to fire more complex rockets with wet wood, since they will not be able to provide the high temperature required for burning heated gases.

The described heating devices must not be thrown away without supervision. Light the stove, wait until the fuel burns out completely. Another drawback of rocket equipment is the impossibility of heating private baths (in particular, their steam rooms) with its help. This is due to the fact that the reactive unit produces very little infrared heat, and this is exactly what is required for taking bath procedures. Missiles probably have no other disadvantages.

Types of jet heating systems – what do you need?

The simplest rockets are made from almost any tin container. A portable stove can be made from a bucket, a can in which paint was stored, and so on. Such systems are ideal for an outdoor picnic; they are often used on construction sites. Simple ovens not suitable for heating rooms. They are used exclusively for cooking and heating water. A rocket made from a bucket can be heated with a small splinter, dry cones and leaves, and bunches of branches. In such a stove, combustion products do not have time to form wood combustible gas. They immediately go down the chimney.

More complex heating structures are created from an old gas cylinder or from a metal barrel and brick. These stoves are necessarily equipped with a riser to increase draft and a horizontal smoke exhaust duct. There are also rockets made entirely of brick. They can be equipped with several chimneys at once and are used for heating large rooms and heating floors. And if you want, you can actually build even a full-fledged stove-bed.

We will tell you how to make all of the indicated types of reactive heating devices yourself. Let’s start our master class with the simplest thing - making a basic garden camping stove from two tin containers (buckets, cans). In addition to them, we will need steel clamps with a cross-section of 10 cm, metal corners, an angle grinder, a stainless steel chimney pipe, scissors for metal, crushed stone. The scheme of work will be as follows:

1. Take two buckets. From a container of smaller volume (diameter) we make a lid for our rocket. Cut a hole in the bucket. It is necessary for organizing a chimney.
2. In the larger bucket, cut another hole at the bottom. We will connect the firebox to it. We perform all operations with metal scissors, bending the resulting petals (pieces of tin) inward.
3. We construct a direct flow from pipes and corners. We insert it into the bucket, and then, using a clamp, connect it with the curved petals.
4. Fill the space between the forward flow and the housing of the heating device with crushed stone. This building material will play the role of a heat accumulator and at the same time a heat insulator.
5. We put the second bucket on the stove.
6. We bend a small burner from wire on which you can place dishes with water and food.

It is advisable to paint the portable rocket with any paint with a high level of heat resistance. After drying, we can use a basic cooking stove. Note! The rocket is ignited through a pipe extending from the forward flow.

A stove made of a barrel and bricks – both cooks and heats!

The construction of a stationary rocket launcher requires significantly more money and time. We prepare the following materials and tools: a metal chimney pipe, red (necessarily heat-resistant) brick, a shovel, an old barbecue, a metal brush, a trowel, cement and sand (it is better to immediately buy a ready-to-use mixture of these materials), reinforcing bars, a little perlite, adobe and expanded clay, heat-resistant paint, 200 liter barrel. Let's start building a stove made of bricks and a metal barrel:

1. We dig a hole 0.3–0.5 m deep in the floor. We will hide a horizontal chimney in it, without which the rocket launcher will not work.
2. We burn a 200-liter barrel and clean it thoroughly. We install a flange in the container that will connect it to the chimney. After this, apply several layers of heat-resistant paint to the container. We use the barrel prepared in this way as a hood for the heating unit.
3. We arrange the foundation. We make a simple formwork from boards, deepen 2-3 bricks into the ground at the furnace installation site. We place reinforcing bars on top. Then we lay bricks in the lower part of the combustion chamber (along the entire perimeter). Fill the structure with cement-sand mortar.

After the filling has dried, we begin laying. It is performed using . We bring the first tier of masonry up. We only need to leave a hole for the firebox. On the second line we form a channel (lower) heating structure. It should be covered on the third tier, and in such a way that we have two holes left. One of them is intended for the vertical channel, the second - directly for the combustion chamber.

Next, we install a tee in the barrel to clean the chimney. It is not necessary to install it, but it is advisable if you plan to use the stove a lot for a long time. After this we put in a vertical channel. We lay out the rising section of the structure (we take its diameter to be about 18 cm) using the “boot” technology. Then we put the old water heater on the rising part of the furnace. We fill all the voids that remain after this operation with perlite.

Now we cover the base of the rocket unit casing with clay and surround the base of our structure with sandbags. We fill all remaining free areas with expanded clay. We connect the chimney pipe to the structure, turn the barrel-casing over and pull it onto the ascending part of the stove. The final work is lining the chimney with sand in bags and filling them with expanded clay. Then we give the structure the required shape using clay (fireclay), install a barbecue grill in the neck of the homemade rocket and cover it with a lid.

The last step is to seal the existing seams on the stove. In principle, we can already do a test run of our design. But experts advise additionally connecting a separate air duct from the street to the stove. It is important. Heating rocket for normal functioning requires a lot of air. It won't be enough indoors. A street air duct is guaranteed to solve this problem.

Rocket heating from a cylinder - let's work with a welding machine

To build a rocket, we choose a heat-resistant and non-explosive cylinder. An all-metal 50-liter tank in which propane is stored is optimal for these purposes. This cylinder has standard dimensions: height – 85 cm and cross-section – 30 cm.

These settings are ideal for self-made ovens. The modest size and light weight of the cylinder do not make it difficult to work with. At the same time, it is allowed to burn any wood fuel in the finished rocket. You can also take 27 or 12 liter propane cylinders. They make compact portable stoves. But the power indicators of such devices are small. It is not practical to use them for heating rooms or country houses.

To build a furnace, in addition to the cylinder, you will need:

steel pipes with a cross section of 15, 7 and 10 cm (the first two will be used to organize a vertical internal channel, the third - to the chimney);
profile pipe product 15x15 cm (we will make a loading compartment and firebox from it);
3mm thick sheet of metal;
dense (100 or more kg/cubic m) basalt fiber (it will serve as a heat-insulating material).

Presented on the Internet various drawings to create a stove from a cylinder. We propose to be guided by this scheme.

The algorithm for manufacturing a rocket launcher is simple. First, we bleed all the gas from the container. Then we turn out the valve, fill the tank with water (to the top) and cut off its upper part along the seam. We cut out the windows on both sides of the gas cylinder, which are required for connecting the chimney and installing the fuel chamber.

After this, we insert the profile tubular product into the container and connect it to the channel (vertical). We remove the latter through the bottom of the tank. Next, we carry out all the necessary actions, focusing on the presented drawing, as well as on the video, which we offer home craftsmen for review.

At the end of the work, we weld the cut part of the container in its place and analyze all the resulting seams for permeability. Uncontrolled entry of air into the constructed structure must not be allowed. If the seams are secure, connect to homemade system chimney. We weld the legs to the bottom of the rocket cylinder. We install the stove on a steel sheet with parameters of 1.5x1 m. The unit is ready for use!

Stove-bed - for lovers of special comfort

The heating unit with a place to sleep and rest is equipped with a special heat exchanger. Its channels are interconnected. They are made from non-flammable materials. The heat exchanger is installed under the plane of the bed. The design of such a furnace is very thoughtful and relatively complex. The bed itself is a surface made of brick or stone and clay. When the stove burns, the heated gas moves through the heat exchange channels, gives off heat upward, and then is removed through the smoke exhaust duct outside the house. The height of the chimney is made within 3–3.5 m. The stove is mounted at the edge of the stove bench (on one side). In most cases, it is equipped with a surface for cooking food. Detailed drawing of this system is presented below.

Elements of the furnace in the diagram:

blower - 1a;
fuel bunker – 1b;
channel for secondary air - 1c;
flame tube – 1g;
riser (primary chimney) – 1d.

The fuel chamber is equipped with a blind cover, and the blower is equipped with a special regulator for adjusting the amount of air supplied. The flame tube has a length of 15–20 cm. The secondary air channel is necessary for complete combustion of gases. The riser cross-section is 7–10 cm. A chimney with a diameter of 10 cm is recommended for cases when we want to obtain the greatest rocket power. A riser with a cross-section of 7 cm provides an optimal indicator of the efficiency of the stove. The fire pipe and the primary chimney require high-quality thermal insulation.

We will make the rocket body from a gas cylinder, although a metal barrel can also be used. Under the housing cover (2a), the primary chimney supplies heated air, and the heated gases leaving the riser heat the cooking device (2b). Other body elements:

lower part (2d);
heat exchange channels (2g);
shell – metal chimney insulation (2c);
exit to the cleaning chamber (2e).

The smoke exhaust line must be absolutely sealed throughout. At a height of 1/3 from the upper end of the drum (housing), the gases are already at a low temperature. They have time to cool down. From approximately the specified height, the rocket-bed is lined (all the way to the floor). This process refers to the thermal insulation of the furnace special compounds. The second cleaning chamber in diagram (3a) is needed to remove carbon deposits from the hog (4) - the heat exchanger. It must be equipped with a sealed door (3b). Now that we have figured out the design of the bed, we can begin to build it.

Building a rocket with a place to sleep - the first steps are the most important!

Before starting work, mix all the necessary ingredients:

Kiln clay (designation 5b in the diagram), which is combined with crushed stone. This composition plays the role of the main heat insulator.
Saman (5a). It is a composition of straw and any clay at hand, diluted with water to a relatively thick consistency.
Seeded sand (5g).
Heat-resistant lining (5c). It is made from equal parts of fireclay sand and clay.
Medium fat clay (5d). It is used for rocket laying.

We are making a bed for our bed. Essentially, we need to knock down high-strength shields under the stove bench and directly under the stove. The frame of the buildings is made from 10x10 cm wooden blocks. The frame cells are made with dimensions of 60x120 cm (for a bed) and 60x90 cm (for a heating installation). Then we sheathe the resulting skeleton with 4 cm. And the façade of the couch can be finished later with sheets of plasterboard.

Before installation, it is advisable to treat wood products with Biocide, and then apply two layers of water emulsion to them.

We lay 4 mm thick basalt cardboard on the floor where we will place the heating rocket. In terms of shape and geometric parameters, it must be similar characteristics bed. On top of the basalt lining we install an iron roofing sheet. Before the firebox, it will extend about 25 cm from under the unit. We install the previously made bed in the place prepared for it. We punch a hole on the wall at a height of 13 cm above the level of the couch (at one of its ends). It is needed for the installation of a chimney.

The next stage is installation of formwork around the perimeter of the bed and pouring installed structure adobe. Carefully level the surface of the mixture using the rule. We wait 14–20 days until the adobe hardens. During this time, you can make the body of the heating structure from a gas cylinder according to the previously described scheme. We weld the combustion components of the rocket (blower, flame duct, chamber) into a single structure with a gas container and coat it with a heat-resistant lining. Important! Apply the composition in a continuous layer only at the bottom. We do not treat the top and sides of the structure with the solution.

Next, we install another formwork under the area where the rocket will stand. It will allow us to make heat-resistant thermal protection for the stove. The height of the formwork structure is about 10 cm. Fill it with a mixture of crushed stone and oven clay. Then we do one by one:

1. Shell. We bend it from a sheet of steel or use a ready-made pipe with a cross-section of 15–20 cm.
2. Furnace structure.
3. Cleaning chamber. This element is made from 1.5 mm galvanized steel. We cut an opening on the side with a cross-section of 16–18 cm. The chimney pipe will subsequently fit into it.

Completion of work - the warm bed will turn out great!

We put a drum from a gas cylinder on the primary chimney. We lay oven clay on the bottom of the installed housing, using a spatula to form an inclined surface (about 7°), which is directed towards the cleaning compartment window. Then we put a metal round timber on the chimney. It should be pressed into the clay composition. Then we pull the shell onto the riser and coat it with medium-fat clay. The next steps are:

1. We line the chimney from the inside. We use sand. It should be covered in separate layers. We wet and tamp each of them. The total number of layers is 7. Place 5 cm of medium-fat clay on top of the sand.
2. Place a cleaning box, coating its bottom and side surfaces with clay. We install the opening of the transition channel into the hole of the drum and press it as hard as possible. We fill all remaining gaps with clay. It is necessary to achieve complete tightness of this stove unit.
3. We install another formwork along the (external) contour of the bed. It should rise about 9 cm above the edge of the hole for the hog. Fill the formwork with adobe mixture.
4. We stretch the corrugated pipe along the entire length of the rocket-bed. We connect one end of the corrugated product to the cleaning compartment.
5. We lay the fixed corrugated pipe in a spiral and insert its second end into the chimney outlet opening, securing the joint with a clay compound.
6. We treat the entire length of the bur with adobe solution and compact this coating.
7. We fix the housing covers and cleaning chambers with bolts, under which we install rubber gaskets.
8. Coat the drum with adobe (don’t touch only the top part) with a layer of about 10 cm.

After about 17 days, the adobe will dry out. We will be able to remove the formwork and apply a special enamel to the drum that can withstand heating up to 750 °C. Then experts advise treating the adobe surface with acrylic-based varnish (preferably in two layers). This coating will protect the structure from moisture and make the stove very attractive in appearance.

The heated bed is done. We test our structure before starting its full operation. The check is carried out simply. We put some paper in the firebox, set it on fire, and monitor the behavior of the rocket. If everything is fine - there are no frightening sounds, we add firewood. After a while the unit will begin to hum. At this moment, close the oven vent. We wait. When the humming is replaced by a gentle whisper ( soft sound working stove), open the vent. Next, we use the heating installation for its intended purpose.