The East African guest - violet, or Saintpaulia, has deservedly become the favorite mistress of many of our window sills. Touching multi-colored buds appear on neat rosettes almost all year round, never tired of delighting with their beauty.
Any gardener will agree with the statement that correctly selected soil is the key to healthy development and abundant flowering violets.
To promote rapid rooting of cuttings and survival of young plants after transplantation, it is necessary to use a substrate consisting of nutrient soil, perlite, vermiculite, sphagnum moss and crushed charcoal.
The best soil for violets is considered to be a light soil mixture of leaf soil, peat and sand (4:1:1); the use of coniferous soil is acceptable.
Components of soil for violets
Nutrient soil
Leaf soil is upper layer soil collected under deciduous trees- birch, linden. It is very loose, water- and breathable with a pH of 5-6 (acidic). Leaf soil is nothing more than rotted (within 1-2 years) fallen leaves.
Turf soil is the top layer of soil with roots. Usually taken from meadows.
Nutritious soils also include vermicompost and compost.
Fillers
Coniferous soil is the lower layer of coniferous forest litter, preferably pine (the upper layer of unrotten needles is removed). It has an acidic pH of 4-5 and is friable.
Peat soil (high peat) serves to improve the looseness of the substrate and provide balanced mineral nutrition to young plants.
Leavening agents and moisture holders
Perlite is granulated white or gray, very light, is an alternative to sand and can make up about 10-20% of the soil mixture. For violets, it is more rational to use granular rather than powdered perlite, for example, Agroperlite.
Vermiculite is hydromica with a high coefficient of moisture absorption (up to 400-530%), more often used for rooting cuttings, planting material breathes and does not rot.
Sphagnum moss increases hygroscopicity soil mixture, and also has disinfecting properties. Having previously been spilled with boiling water, dried and finely ground, it is placed around the cuttings to prevent excessive drying.
Charcoal acts as a moisture regulator and has an absorbent effect. Coarse coal is placed at the bottom of the pot, and smaller coal is mixed with the ground.
Dolomite flour (crushed white limestone) is used as an additional component when it is necessary to reduce soil acidity.
Sand is used as a baking powder (rarely).
Expanded clay – is a porous clay ball, fired at high temperatures, placed on the bottom with a drainage layer of up to 1.5-2 cm.
Coconut fiber is sometimes used to improve looseness, but if the soil mixture for violets contains perlite and sphagnum, then coconut fiber is not necessary.
The composition of the soil has a great influence on the absorption of nutrients by the plant. We should not forget that Saintpaulias feel best in slightly acidic or neutral soils with a pH of 5.5 - 6.5. When soil acidity is low (pH below 4), the absorption of nitrogen and phosphorus decreases, even if fertilizing is sufficient. Violets begin to experience nitrogen-phosphorus deficiency: the buds, without fully opening, fall off, lower leaves turn yellow and look lifeless. The plant can be saved by transplanting into new land, adding 1 liter. volume of the pot, crushed shell of one egg or watering once with ash dissolved in water (1 tablespoon per 2 liters of water).
The absorption of nitrogen and phosphorus by Saintpaulia also sharply decreases with alkaline (pH more than 8.5) soil reaction. And in this case, replanting into new soil with the addition of leaf or coniferous soil is necessary.
In a city apartment it is difficult to make an earthen mixture yourself; it is easier to use one purchased in a store, and at the same time purchase a soil acidity indicator. This device will always help find and eliminate the cause " bad mood» plants.
Ready-made soils for violets
It is preferable to choose the soil mixture “For sowing seeds and planting seedlings” for planting violets ( ASP GREENWORLD), consisting of nutritional components, sand, high peat and coconut fiber.
Saintpaulia soils are based on lowland peat (“ Garden of Wonders"), to which it is recommended to add raising agents - perlite, sphagnum and fertilizers.
Firm " Terra-vita"produces an earthen mixture based on peat, but for violets the soil is somewhat sour, so it is better to use it as a peat additive rather than as an independent substrate.
« Academy of Growth» Violet soil is a nutritious, slightly acidic soil made from high-moor peat with the addition of limestone materials.
Manufacturer Fusco soil for violets "Bereginya" - for transplanting and sowing violets consists of high and low peat, sand, dolomite flour, compost and fertilizers, as well as “Flower Happiness Violet” made from peat soil, sand, dolomite flour with the addition of complex mineral fertilizers.
It should be remembered that store-bought soil must be steamed with boiling water or calcined in the oven at a temperature of 100 degrees. Naturally, such land needs to be given time to restore its microflora for about a month, and be sure to enrich it with fertilizers.
Typically, soil for violets retains its nutritional properties for a long time if the plants are fertilized in a timely manner. It is best to replant Saintpaulias once a year, between April and May, replacing the soil.
Often, ready-made soils for violets are characterized by high acidity of the soil and require the addition of fillers and disintegrants. Experienced flower growers, knowing all the whims of their green pets, prefer to make a soil mixture for violets themselves. There are several options soil mixtures, the differences mainly concern proportions, but some gardeners have their own secrets.
How to make soil for violets
There are several options for soil mixtures that you can create yourself by mixing all the components. Of course, the most successful soil is selected experimentally, but for novice gardeners it will be useful to know in what proportions to mix different components.
Below you can familiarize yourself with some options for soil mixtures that have been time-tested and are popular among many Saintpaulia owners.
Option 1
1 part nutritious soil (universal or special for violets)
2 parts peat
1 part perlite, vermiculite, moss
½ part charcoal
Option 2
6 parts nutrient soil
1 part vermiculite and perlite
1 part sphagnum moss
1 part charcoal
Option 3
3 parts peat soil
1 part nutrient soil
1 part vermiculite
½ part charcoal
Option 4
5 parts peat soil
1 part nutrient soil
½ part perlite and vermiculite
½ part of Seramis granulate
¼ part charcoal
Superphosphate (several peas)
Option 5
4 parts peat soil
1 part crushed sphagnum moss
½ part perlite and vermiculite
½ part coconut fiber
A small amount of charcoal
For children there are more fillers and leavening agents, for adults there is more nutritional content
Soil for violets: composition and preparation
You can prepare soil for violets yourself at home. Select the correct components of the composition and maintain the proportions. Flowers prefer moist soils, but do not tolerate stagnant moisture. When the soil dries out, the rhizomes become thinner, the plant withers and dries out.
Compound
Nutritious soil for young violets consists of perlite, dry sphagnum moss, crushed charcoal and garden soil. Plant weakened plants in peat soil mixed with moist soil. fertile soil. Cuttings take root faster in a substrate of chernozem and turf humus.
Source: Depositphotos
The soil for violets must contain a drainage layer
Composition of soil for adult plants:
- leaf soil mixed with dry fallen leaves;
- meadow soil;
- compost;
- vermicompost.
It is acceptable to add coniferous soil, river sand, moss, and peat to the soil. Use perlite and vermiculite as a leavening agent. If the indoor air is dry, add a natural humidity regulator to the soil - birch charcoal. Use coconut shavings to retain moisture in the soil.
How to cook it yourself
To replant plants, mix garden humus, compost and sand in equal parts, moisten with warm clean water without chemical impurities. Place the prepared soil in dark place for 12–15 hours. Add perlite, moss, and coal to the soil. Before planting the plant, loosen the substrate.
Rules for preparing a nutrient mixture for adult violets:
- Mix the peat and leaf humus in a ratio of 5:1.
- Add ½ part each of perlite, charcoal, and moss. Place in a cool, shaded place for 1–1.5 days.
- Add ½ part of the Seramis stimulant and 2-3 peas of superphosphate to the resulting substrate.
- Moisten the soil running water room temperature.
Treat all substrate components against pests. Calcine the moss and peat in the oven, soak the coconut shavings in a solution of potassium permanganate. When making charcoal, make sure that plastic, paint and varnish products, and petroleum products do not get into it.
In spring, add nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers to the soil. Mix into acidified soils eggshells, wood ash.
Nutrient soil for violets must contain microelements and substances necessary for the growth and development of the flower. High-quality substrate components increase the duration of flowering and make plants healthier.
In this topic, I will tell about the soil(soil mixture) for violets(saintpaulium).
I want to say right away that there is no specific and ideal recipe for making soil for violets. It all depends on what components are sold in your region, your financial situation, and the size of the collection. After trying many recipes, you will come to your own soil composition, of course based on the main principles: the soil mixture for violets should be light, loose, not greasy, breathable and moisture-absorbing. The earth mixture should not be heavy and dense, this can serve poor growth violets, since it will be difficult for the delicate roots of violets to develop such soil. The main components of soil for violets:
High peat or soil mixtures based on it, such as "KLASMANN", "GREENWORLD", "TERA VITA", "Seliger-Agro" and others.
Perlite- almost neutral material. Rock of volcanic origin. It is added to the soil up to 30% of the volume, making the mixture lighter, more breathable, looser, which prevents caking, clumping, and compaction. Thanks to these properties, the plant’s roots develop well and air exchange is not disturbed.
Vermiculite - natural material, refers to the types of mica. It increases the acidity of the soil. It is added to the soil in the same way as perlite, up to 30% of the volume. Vermiculite provides air exchange and oxygen delivery to the roots.
Perlite is convenient to use together with vermiculite. When used together, they compensate for each other's shortcomings. It is advisable to purchase a large fraction and be sure to rinse before use.
Sphagnum moss- has antibacterial, disinfectant and antifungal properties, thanks to the anti-putrefactive substance. It also makes the soil hygroscopic and breathable.
Charcoal - good antiseptic, it prevents rotting and acidification of the soil, and also absorbs salts and improves the structure of the soil. The use of charcoal reduces the risk of bacterial diseases of the root system of plants.
When composing the soil, you can use more or less of some components, omit some or replace them with similar ones (coconut, pine needles, bark, sand), the main thing is that the substrate is breathable, moisture-absorbing and loose.
Let me give you a few examples of composition soil mixtures for violets :
6 parts of purchased soil;
- 1 part perlite;
- 1 part vermiculite;
- 1 part sphagnum moss;
- 1 part coal
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4 parts of peat-based nutrient soil (soil for violets and begonias)
- 1/2 part perlite
-1/2 part vermiculite
- 1/2 - 1 part crushed moss
-1/2 part coconut substrate
- 2-6 tablespoons charcoal fine fraction - depends on the volume of soil made.
-----
6 parts of nutritious soil (“Seliger-Agro” universal for flowers, “Vermion”, “Zashita”, “AB5, Greenworldn”)
- 1 part perlite,
- 1 part vermiculite,
- 1/2 part of coconut substrate,
- 1 part chopped sphagnum moss,
- approximately a tablespoon of fine charcoal.
These are the recipes of our famous collectors and breeders, published by Irina Shchedrina on the Violet House forum:
Recipe by Olga Aksenkina:
Vermiculite: perlite = 1:6
Charcoal 1 pack per 10 liters
Fertilizers "Plantofol" - concentrations are 4 times less than recommended. After transplantation, the plants receive clean water, during the second watering and then with a fertilizer solution.
Recipe from Olga Artemova:
Adult violets on the wick:
White high peat "Klasmann"
Fertilizer "Etisso" for flowers 1ml/1l. with every watering,
Children (wick not used):
White high peat "Klasmann"
Fertilizer "Etisso" according to the instructions for the fertilizer
Recipe from Irina Danilina
Adult violets and children (I do not use a wick):
"Greenworld" - 1h
Vermion elite - 1h
Perlite-Vermiculite - 0.5 packs
Charcoal - 0.5 packs per 10 l
Adult violets on the wick:
"Greenworld" - 1h
Perlite - 1 hour
Charcoal
Fertilizer Schultz (Schultz) - according to instructions, every watering
Recipe from Nina Starostenko
Adult Saintpaulias and children are grown on mats:
Terra Vita (Floral or universal) - 10l
Coniferous substrate - 1 pack
Charcoal - 1 pack
Perlite + vermiculite in a ratio of 4:1 - 10-20% of the mixture volume
Fertilizer "Etisso" - not regularly
Replant as needed.
Recipe from Tamara Kopeikina
Adult violets on the wick:
Greenworld - 10 parts
Perlite - 7 parts
Fertilizer: "Etisso" for flowers 1 ml per 1 l, constantly
Kids (I don’t use a wick)
According to the same scheme (fertilizers with each watering).
Recipe from Alexey Kuznetsov
For miniature violets:
Mature violets on the wick
fine peat (from nature) - 25%
Perlite - 75%
Fertilizer:
alternating "Etisso" for flowers (1 ml per 1 l) and for decorative foliage plants (2 ml per l) every watering
Replant after each flowering.
Children without a wick:
The soil is the same
Fertilizer:
"Etisso" (for decorative foliage) 2 ml per l each watering
---
Choose, experiment and you will find your own soil composition that you and yours will like. violets. These soils can be successfully used in growing other Gesneriaceae, For example streptocarpus, decorative deciduous begonias.
I will add that never reuse any components of the earthen mixture, because... harmful microorganisms could already begin to multiply there!
Good luck and success in growing your violets and other favorite flowers.
There is a constant debate among flower growers about which soil is better to use: store-bought or home-made based on soil “taken” from nature. There are plenty of supporters of both points of view, and each gives their own arguments in favor of the choice made.
Who, after all, is closest to the truth? Let's dig in!
Pros and cons of natural earth
Even in the most provincial town there is at least one retail outlet related to the flower theme. Actually, there you can buy ready-made soil. Of course, the assortment in the outback differs significantly from that in the metropolis. The fact is that the highest quality, almost ready-to-use primers (for example, the GREENWORLD brand) are more expensive, and you are unlikely to find them in small shops. The owners of such stores simply do not want to import expensive “land” for fear of not finding buyers for it.
More budget options are not always of the proper quality. And the information indicated on the packaging sometimes does not correspond to what is inside it. This is where, in most cases, the “dog is buried” in the reluctance to use purchased soils. And, as you know, bad news spreads much faster than good news and is remembered longer. Because of such isolated cases, in a certain circle of amateur flower growers, there was an opinion that it was better not to get involved in trade, but to go into the field and dig up as much as needed. And you won’t have to pay any money at all - total savings!
Indeed, there are cases when such a position is justified. Well, there are no factory soils in rural stores - and that’s it! In fact, shouldn’t we write them out by mail? Although, some advanced violets from the “outback” do this, but this is rather an exception.
In general, let’s give natural soil a “plus” for being free. This is where the pros end and the cons begin.
The first, most important, fattest minus - pests and diseases .
What can you not get with free land! This is especially true for flower growers “gardeners” - owners summer cottages. It is with garden soil that late blight, various rots, etc. are introduced. And don’t think that you can avoid this by taking land in an “ecologically friendly” forest. ON THE PICTURE: A nematode brought with garden soil infects root system violets
You can, of course, steam/fry garden soil. It’s good if you have the opportunity to carry out this procedure on the street. But if you start “cooking” at home in the kitchen, then it is unlikely that both your household and yourself will like the aromas emitted by the “dish” being prepared. Yes and bad smell It then takes a very long time to dissipate.
It is naive to think that by steaming or frying soil brought from the fields, you will get rid of its unwanted inhabitants. Of course, moving animals will be destroyed high temperature, but pest eggs, pathogenic fungal spores and weed seeds are likely to survive.
After heat treatment for quite a long time, such soil cannot be used for planting and replanting. It is “dead”, in it, along with pathogenic flora and pests, beneficial microorganisms are also destroyed.
Why doesn't cultivating natural land solve problems?
Nature, as we know, does not tolerate a vacuum, and the first inhabitants of such soil will be the most adaptable and resilient “enemies”. Under normal conditions, their activity was suppressed due to the opposition of antagonist bacteria, i.e. a certain balance of “the forces of good and evil” was maintained. But, after such an intervention, the pathogens that occupied the territory first, in the absence of competitors, begin to actively multiply, giving virtually no chance for “good” bacteria to develop. A plant planted in such soil is doomed to death in advance.
Therefore, the land that has undergone heat treatment is forcibly populated with beneficial bacteria, treated with drugs such as Fitosporin and Baikal EM-1. "Fitosporin" will suppress the activity of pathogenic microflora, and "Baikal EM-1", containing several cultures of beneficial microorganisms, will restore the microflora in the soil.
The soil prepared in this way “stands” for at least a month - and only then is it ready for use.
It is wrong to believe that deep freezing can solve all problems with pathogenic environments. After defrosting, even earthworms that fell into this soil return to life, not just spores and pests.
ON THE PICTURE: Earthworms easily tolerate soil freezing
What is pH and why is it so important to know it?
The natural soil in different regions of our country is different: one contains more sand, the other is loamy. As a rule, it is always quite “heavy” for violets and requires the addition of additional components in significant quantities.
Saintpaulia is also important for normal growth and flowering Soil pH. This is an indicator of the concentration of hydrogen ions (H +) in the soil, i.e. its acidity. The lower its value, the more sour it is.
Saintpaulias prefer slightly acidic soil (6.3–6.8), close to neutral. How sure can you be that the soil you extract has the required acidity? This means you need to get a special device for measuring pH, or at least indicator strips (although they show only approximate values). 
ON THE PICTURE: An electronic pH meter will accurately determine the acidity of the soil, but not everyone can afford it. A budget option- indicator strips - will not give the desired measurement accuracy
Well, decide: do you need this hassle with natural soil?
Pros and cons of factory soils
Ready soil in a specialized point of sale It has, perhaps, one drawback - you have to pay money for it. And then we will celebrate the positives. There are quite a lot of them:
- The purchased soil is treated against pests and diseases and contains no weed seeds.
- It is ready to eat immediately after you bring it from the store.
- It contains essential microelements and fertilizers.
- Known pH.
- All information about the composition of the soil, additives - if any (perlite, expanded clay) added to it mineral fertilizers shown on the packaging.
- There is no need to prepare soil in the warm season, or worry about its processing and subsequent storage.
ON THE PICTURE: The packaging contains full information about the soil: its structure, chemical composition; introduced mineral or organic fertilizers, raising agents
Of course, purchased soils are most often only the basis for preparing an earthen mixture for Saintpaulias - with the exception, perhaps, of not the cheapest ones brands type "Vermion" or GREENWORL. They can be used immediately as soon as you decide to start a transplant. Most soils, when it comes to Uzambara violets, require some “rework”.
Almost all soils offered by trade are made on the basis of high-moor (red peat). The exception is special nutrient soils such as vermicompost - they are good to use as an additive to “peaty” soils.
Tip: when choosing a primer, carefully study the information about its composition indicated on the packaging. Take the one where it is clearly indicated, based on which one exactly This soil is composed of peat.
High-moor and low-lying peat: is there a fundamental difference?
The fact is that peat can be both high-moor (red) and low-lying (black). Lowland peat has a higher pH (5.5–7.0) compared to the more acidic highland peat. It would seem that with this indicator it is ideal for Saintpaulias, but...
Soil acidity is not the most important factor for plants! Watering tap water will still change it closer to neutral. But the structure of the soil is extremely important! Lowland peat consists of fine particles resembling black sand. It is free-flowing, prone to caking, and has little air. Due to this, water will stagnate in the soil based on this peat, which will entail the risk of rotting of the root system.
High-moor peat is fundamentally different in structure. The plant fibers from which it is formed are not yet fully processed, giving it a reddish color. Compared to lowland, it is more loose and fibrous, and has a relatively large particle size. Thanks to these fibers, red peat is more breathable - “airy”. In such soil, the roots have the least risk of rotting from waterlogging. 
ON THE PICTURE: Lowland and highland peat visually differ from each other in color and structure
Therefore, if possible, we choose a soil based on high-moor peat (or with a small admixture of lowland peat - if there is no particular choice) and proceed to the mystery of preparing an earthen mixture for Saintpaulias.
Making the earth mixture
Depending on the quality composition of the purchased soil, the amount of disintegrants used will vary: more of them will need to be added to denser soil. But the principle is still the same. Approximate The composition for transplanting adult Saintpaulias will be as follows:
- purchased soil - 5 liters;
- perlite - 1 cup;
- vermiculite - 1 cup;
- finely chopped sphagnum moss - 0.5 liters (about two handfuls);
- charcoal - half a glass.
ON THE PICTURE: Components for making an earthen mixture in which Saintpaulia will grow
If you are missing one of the components, you can compensate for it by increasing the amount of another. For example, replace perlite with vermiculite, and vice versa.
Different varieties of Saintpaulia prefer different acidity levels. Some grow and bloom well in almost neutral soil; others the best way will show themselves to be more sour. But this is a topic for another discussion.
It should be noted that in order to root leaf cuttings in the soil, it is necessary to add more baking powder in volume - up to 50%.
Don’t be afraid to experiment in search of your “magic” earthen mixture, but don’t overuse them either. If your violets are growing and blooming well, then everything is fine. Remember that the best is the enemy of the good. 
ON THE PICTURE: Are you still digging? ;)
- Give preference to purchased soils - do not chase “freebies”.
- Carefully read the information on the soil package, try to choose soil based on high-moor peat.
- Remember that preparing an earthen mixture requires an individual approach depending on what “age” category of Saintpaulia you are preparing it for.
The main components of soil for violets:
High-moor peat or soil mixtures based on it
, such as "KLASMANN", "GREENWORLD", "TERA VITA", "Seliger-Agro" and others.
Perlite- almost neutral material. Rock of volcanic origin. It is added to the soil up to 30% of the volume, making the mixture lighter, more breathable, looser, which prevents caking, clumping, and compaction. Thanks to these properties, the plant’s roots develop well and air exchange is not disturbed.
Vermiculite- natural material, belongs to the types of mica. It increases the acidity of the soil. It is added to the soil in the same way as perlite, up to 30% of the volume. Vermiculite provides air exchange and oxygen delivery to the roots.
Perlite is convenient to use together with vermiculite. When used together, they compensate for each other's shortcomings. It is advisable to purchase a large fraction and be sure to rinse before use.
Sphagnum moss- has antibacterial, disinfectant and antifungal properties, thanks to the anti-putrefactive substance. It also makes the soil hygroscopic and breathable.
Charcoal- a good antiseptic, it prevents rotting and acidification of the soil, and also absorbs salts and improves the structure of the soil. The use of charcoal reduces the risk of bacterial diseases of the root system of plants.
When composing the soil, you can use more or less of some components, omit some or replace them with similar ones (coconut, pine needles, bark, sand), the main thing is that the substrate is breathable, moisture-absorbing and loose.
Here are a few examples of the composition of soil mixtures for violets:
6 parts of purchased soil;
- 1 part perlite;
- 1 part vermiculite;
- 1 part sphagnum moss;
- 1 part coal
-----
4 parts of peat-based nutrient soil (soil for violets and begonias)
- 1/2 part perlite
-1/2 part vermiculite
- 1/2 - 1 part crushed moss
-1/2 part coconut substrate
- 2-6 tablespoons fine charcoal - depends on the volume of soil made.
-----
6 parts of nutritious soil (“Seliger-Agro” universal for flowers, “Vermion”, “Zashita”, “AB5, Greenworldn”)
- 1 part perlite,
- 1 part vermiculite,
- 1/2 part of coconut substrate,
- 1 part chopped sphagnum moss,
- approximately a tablespoon of fine charcoal.
These are the recipes of our famous collectors and breeders, published by Irina Shchedrina on the Violet House forum:
Recipe by Olga Aksenkina:
Vermiculite: perlite = 1:6
Charcoal 1 pack per 10 liters
Fertilizers "Plantofol" - concentrations are 4 times less than recommended. After transplantation, the plants receive clean water, with the second watering and then with a fertilizer solution.
Recipe from Olga Artemova:
Adult violets on the wick:
White high peat "Klasmann"
Fertilizer "Etisso" for flowers 1ml/1l. with every watering,
Children (wick not used):
White high peat "Klasmann"
Fertilizer "Etisso" according to the instructions for the fertilizer
Recipe from Irina Danilina
Adult violets and children (I do not use a wick):
"Greenworld" - 1h
Vermion elite - 1h
Perlite-Vermiculite - 0.5 packs
Charcoal - 0.5 packs per 10 l
Adult violets on the wick:
"Greenworld" - 1h
Perlite - 1 hour
Charcoal
Fertilizer Schultz (Schultz) - according to instructions, every watering
Recipe from Nina Starostenko
Adult Saintpaulias and children are grown on mats:
Terra Vita (Floral or universal) - 10l
Coniferous substrate - 1 pack
Charcoal - 1 pack
Perlite + vermiculite in a ratio of 4:1 - 10-20% of the mixture volume
Fertilizer "Etisso" - not regularly
Replant as needed.
Recipe from Tamara Kopeikina
Adult violets on the wick:
Greenworld - 10 parts
Perlite - 7 parts
Fertilizer: "Etisso" for flowers 1 ml per 1 l, constantly
Kids (I don’t use a wick)
According to the same scheme (fertilizers with each watering).
Recipe from Alexey Kuznetsov
For miniature violets:
Mature violets on the wick
fine peat (from nature) - 25%
Perlite - 75%
Fertilizer:
alternating "Etisso" for flowers (1 ml per 1 l) and for decorative foliage plants (2 ml per l) every watering
Replant after each flowering.
Children without a wick:
The soil is the same
Fertilizer:
"Etisso" (for decorative foliage) 2 ml per l each watering
Choose, experiment and you will find your own soil composition that you and your violets will like. These soils can be successfully used in growing other Gesneriaceae, such as streptocarpus.
I will add that never reuse any components of the earthen mixture, because... harmful microorganisms could already begin to multiply there!
Good luck and success in growing your violets and other favorite flowers.
