A true boiler repair specialist is hard to find. Therefore, it is important to understand them yourself, because a specialist is really not always required and many problems can be eliminated yourself. Let's look at the list of boiler faults, which covers all possible breakdowns as much as possible. The article is intended for non-specialists, but ordinary person, which can eliminate such problems.
To resolve this problem gas boiler there may be several ways. Simplest - check whether the boiler is plugged in or whether the machine has been knocked out . If this does not help, you need to remove the boiler casing and inspect its insides for a short circuit. Perhaps there is some smell or something has leaked. You need to check whether all wires and sensors are in their places. If everything is in order, then you need to move on to inspecting the fuses on the electronic board. Once you are sure that the fuse has blown, you just need to replace it with a new one. If the new fuse immediately burns out, then you need to call a technician, as this means some kind of serious breakdown that is unlikely to be corrected on your own. A specialist should also be called if all the fuses are normal. This indicates that the problem is not with them.
Pay attention to the varistor. It is designed to protect the boiler from voltage surges. If there was some kind of difference, then the varistor will be blown up and only a small part of it will remain. Because of this, the boiler may also not turn on. The solution to this boiler malfunction is to simply re-solder the varistor.
Such a malfunction of a gas boiler is possible if the sensor circuit in the room thermostat or boiler thermostat is broken. Need to see if it's turned off room sensor. If it is turned off, then the mechanical thermostat just needs to be turned on, but in the electronic one it is possible to replace the batteries.
The boiler has many safety systems that are included in one circuit. When one of the systems fails, no voltage is supplied. If the room thermostat or boiler thermostat fails, there will be no error on the panel, but in case of another failure, the error is displayed. Therefore, when the boiler simply does not want to turn on, first of all you need to check the thermostats and start repairing the boiler from there.
The boiler also does not turn on, but that is not the problem
This may be due to a clogged filter under the boiler. You need to find it and close both filter taps, unscrew the nut and pull out the mesh from there, which you need to rinse with water and put back. When cleaning the filter, as when performing any other actions, be sure to turn off the boiler.
Coarse filter
The reason may also be the pump, which does not supply heat for two reasons:
- due to air accumulation;
- The rotor is jammed.
To determine the cause of a pump malfunction in a gas boiler, you first need to check the operation of the rotor. To do this, you need to unscrew the nut on the pump, from which a little water should flow out, then insert a screwdriver inside; if you hear a characteristic sound, then everything is in order with the rotor. If not, then you should turn it with a screwdriver by the slots or do it with a special key.
If air accumulates in the pump, it is necessary to open the air vent and release the air. The air vent consists of a rotating or rising cap; when released, the sound of escaping air should be heard.
- The pressure gauge needle is close to the red zone.
When the cold system has pressure near the red zone, it is necessary to turn on the boiler and heat it up. If, with slight heating, the pressure rises strongly from 0.7 to 1.5 bar, this will mean that in expansion tank it is necessary to add air due to its loss. To do this, you need to reset the system pressure to zero (open the tap and drain some water) and use normal car pump or pump the compressor to 1.3 bar, then bring the system pressure to 1.5 bar.
How to repair boiler fault codes?
Boiler overheating error
Gas boiler malfunction in the form of overheating can occur due to lack of circulation. In this case, you need to check the pump and filter. The overheating thermostat may also be broken.
Low system pressure
If the pressure does not rise when the boiler warms up, then the tightness of the system may simply be broken and you need to tighten the connections, and then add a little pressure. If this problem arose almost immediately after installing the boiler, which means you just need to remove the air through an automatic air vent and add a little water.
There is no draft of the gas boiler
If the boiler is open camera combustion, just look to see if it is clogged with anything. If the combustion chamber is closed, then outer pipe condensation drips, getting into the internal and freezing, in winter time years, turns into an icicle, blocking the access of air to the boiler. To eliminate this problem, you need to water the resulting icicle hot water. Another foreign object may also get into the chimney.
The boiler does not light a flame when ignited
This indicates a malfunction of the gas valve in the boiler. To verify this, you can unscrew the hose and see if gas is supplied. If there is gas, then you should call a specialist who will replace this valve.
The boiler lights up, but the flame goes out immediately
In this case, the panel may show a malfunction of the gas boiler in the form of a lack of ionization current. You need to check this by turning on the boiler again, turning the plug over, thereby changing the phases. If nothing has changed, then the operation of the ionization current may be disrupted due to some electrical work in the house. If, then this is due to voltage surges and a stabilizer is needed.
The panel displays incorrect errors
In general, that's all. If the material was useful, do not forget to share it by clicking on the buttons social networks below this text.
Also find out how to do it correctly so that there are no problems in the future:
With the development of modern low-rise construction and gas networks, the boiler has become a common household appliance in every house or apartment. Basically, after installation, the boiler does not cause users any trouble. Modern boilers operate completely autonomously and require only regular Maintenance or inspection. In our opinion, the average operating time of units before the first breakdown is from 4 to 6 years. Some users encounter problems even after 9 years, and some, on the contrary, earlier. In this material I will tell you what can be done if the boiler simply does not turn on, and I will also consider the most common malfunctions of gas boilers. The concept of “does not turn on” can mean completely different problems:
There is no indication (the display is not lit)
The boiler does not light up
The boiler does not operate in any particular mode
Therefore, these should be considered in detail different situations separately. Please note that to eliminate some malfunctions, user intervention is sufficient, but in some cases it is necessary to call a qualified specialist.
The boiler does not turn on - there is no indication
Almost all modern gas boilers equipped with a control board and an information panel with a liquid crystal display or LED indicators. If there is no indication, first of all you need to make sure that power is supplied to the boiler. Typically, the electrical connection of the boiler is carried out through a separate “automatic machine” - check whether it is turned on or not.
Most the right way make sure that power is supplied to the boiler - check with a multimeter in voltmeter mode for the presence of 220V at the connection point to the boiler board. If there is no voltage, it is necessary to localize and eliminate the problem. IN real life It happens that one of the household members simply pulled the plug out of the socket.
Safety fuses
It is also worth paying attention to the location of the fuses. In some boilers, depending on the model (for example, Ariston, Buderus, Vaillant), the fuses are located on the board itself, and in some, before they are connected to the board. If there are no problems with the electrical connection to the boiler, you should check the integrity of the fuses (with the same multitester in the “continuity” mode).
If the fuses are intact and there is 220 volts at the control points, it is likely that the boiler does not turn on due to a malfunction of the control electronics.
If during the inspection it turns out that the fuses have blown, then there was at least a problem with the power supply. In this case, it would be correct to first conduct research on the actuators (fan, pump, priority valve) and boiler wiring for a short circuit. However, in practice, even representatives of specialized organizations simply replace the fuses with good ones and check the boiler in operation. If the fuses blow again, then turn off the high-voltage parts of the boiler in sequence to identify problem area(this is not a recommendation for action! This approach is not entirely correct).
Several spare fuses are usually supplied with the boiler.
If the fuses blow due to damage to one of the actuators, it must be replaced (or the cause of the short circuit must be eliminated). In the case where it is proven that the mechanisms (and wiring) are in good working order, the control board itself remains. Blown fuses indicate that there was an unacceptable load on the electronics (thunderstorm, pulsed power surge in the network), so the cause of the malfunction may also be a short circuit on the board itself.
Water (moisture) getting on the board
Water ingress is one of the most unpleasant situations. Although the board is in a protective case, water may get inside due to leakage or condensation. Often it gets into the box through the wires. Water ingress almost always causes damage to the board, in most cases irreparable. Characteristic stains and oxidation will be visible on the board due to water.
Varistor and power supply
Often, if the boiler board is damaged, burnt or charred elements can be visually detected on it. A varistor is a protective element of the board that is installed at the input of the circuit. In most cases this is a detail round shape of blue color(but not required). When the rated load is exceeded, the varistor is destroyed and opens the circuit. In some cases, if the varistor helped prevent damage to the electronics, biting it out is enough to eliminate the gap in the circuit. Important! Although the board circuit will work without a varistor, it should be remembered that the varistor is a protective device and the correct solution would be to replace it. The power supply is a microcircuit that is also damaged primarily by pulsed power surges or during a thunderstorm. If cracks or damage are visible on it, diagnostics will probably be required.
Display board
For some boiler models (Vaillant, Ariston, Navien), the control unit consists of a main board and an information board (display board). The boiler may also not turn on if the display board is broken. The display board, unlike the main one, is cheaper, but most often cannot be repaired. In this case, the fault can only be identified by replacing a known good part.
If the gas boiler is working, there is an indication on the display, but it does not start or produces errors, further diagnostics are required.
The boiler does not light up
If the gas boiler does not work, then in most cases there will be an error signal on the information panel indicating its number or code, by which you can approximately find out in which boiler system the malfunction occurred and how critical it is. In all double-circuit boilers switching between summer and winter operating modes is provided. In summer mode, the boiler will not turn on to heat the room (the same is true when using weather-compensated automation or thermostats).
If the boiler does not ignite and does not make any attempts to turn on (stands idle) when necessary, this may be an electronic malfunction, but such cases are rare and concern specific boiler models.
Usually, if there is a malfunction that prevents the boiler from operating normally, the user will receive an error. That is, if the boiler does not ignite, you need to determine the error code and find its meaning in the equipment operating manual. Error codes with descriptions are always indicated there.
Next, we will consider the most common boiler malfunctions that users encounter. It is worth mentioning here that mostly all modern boilers have the same basic structure and operating procedure. However, to solve a specific problem on a specific boiler, you need to at least read the instructions for that boiler.
Several unsuccessful ignition attempts
This is the very first error code for most equipment manufacturers. For BAXI E01 boilers, for Arison 501 boilers, for Vaillant F28. Ignition of the gas-air mixture in the combustion chamber will occur under two conditions: the presence of gas at the burner nozzles and the presence of a spark. Gas enters the burner through the gas valve, the spark is generated by a transformer on the control board (or remote). A separate case should be noted when ignition occurs, but the boiler cannot detect the presence of a flame and goes out (closes the gas supply valve).
The most common reasons:
Phasing error. Often, gas boiler boards require connection polarity. For the average user, this means that the position of the plug in the outlet matters. If the polarity of the connection is violated, the boiler does not see the presence of a flame, continues ignition (electrode crackling) even when there is already a flame on the burner, then turns off due to an emergency. Even if you did not touch the plug, the polarity could change at the substation!
Ignition or flame ionization electrode. It can be separate or combined. The main problems may be related to contamination (oxidation) of the electrode or its gap relative to the burner. A dirty ionization electrode prevents the board from detecting the presence of a flame and operation stops.
High voltage wire. High voltage is generated by a transformer and transmitted through a wire to the electrode, where it pierces the air gap between the burner and the electrode with a spark. If a characteristic crackling sound is heard, but a spark on the burner is not visually visible, it is possible that the breakdown is occurring somewhere else. For example, there is a microcrack in the insulation of a high-voltage wire, and a breakdown occurs at the point where the insulation on the housing is broken.
No gas on the burner. The gas valve controls the gas supply to the burner: it opens and modulates (gas dosing). The gas valves are regulated and controlled by a control board. Accordingly, the cause of the problems may be a malfunction of the valve (or the need for adjustment), its electrical part, or the control circuit on the board. This device should be checked by a specialist. The lack of gas can also be due to external factors: a faulty meter, dirty filters.
Control board. In some cases, lack of ignition or flame control is caused by a malfunction of the boiler main board. This can be considered after others have been accurately verified possible reasons which are described above.
Insufficient draft (fan does not turn on)
Also a popular problem. If there is a problem with the removal of combustion products, the boiler will not start and ignite until it is completely eliminated. Such malfunctions and their solutions are described in more detail in a separate article -.
Insufficient water pressure (refill required)
Traditional gas boilers operate in closed system heating, respectively, so that the boiler does not turn into hydrogen bomb There must be a minimum water pressure inside the heat exchanger (in fact, the presence of water and circulation there). The pressure is controlled by a special sensor - a pressure sensor. The boilers are provided with an additional mechanical pressure gauge for the user. Although the systems are closed, the pressure in them can drop over time (for example, water escapes through leaks in the connections). As soon as the water pressure in the boiler drops below the minimum level (0.5 - 0.7 bar), the boiler sensor detects a malfunction and blocks operation. In most cases, you just need to study the readings of the mechanical pressure gauge and recharge the system according to the instructions for the boiler.
The boiler does not work in DHW or heating mode
And finally, situations when the boiler does not operate in a particular mode. They happen much less frequently compared to others. In this case, it is likely that the boiler will need to be diagnosed by a specialist. The process of ignition and operation of the boiler in different modes is virtually the same, with the exception that different modes may have different power. In hot water preparation mode, the boiler power is usually full, but in heating mode it can be minimal. You can read about problems in the operation of the DHW mode in a separate article.
Summary
In this article we looked at the most common cases when the boiler does not turn on or ignite. No one anywhere on the Internet will definitely tell you why your boiler won’t turn on; this requires at least an external inspection. This material will help you get acquainted with the whole possible situations and is written based on our statistics over several years.
If there is a malfunction, you need to determine the error and read the boiler operating manual. Also, for many boiler models, error descriptions with recommendations are available on our website. Malfunctions can be simple, which the user can fix independently, or complex, requiring qualified assistance and spare parts. We strongly do not recommend performing any actions with the boiler if you do not fully understand its structure and principles of operation, disabling protective devices or changing the boiler’s operation circuit to restore its operation. If there is a malfunction, it must be eliminated! If the cause of the malfunction is not completely clear to you, it is better to call a specialist.
I have a Hydrosta-250 boiler. After a power surge, the fuses burned out, replaced them, and the boiler turned on. Opened hot water, and 2-3 seconds - and the “New pump” fuse burns out. What could it be and how can I find out?
South Korean double-circuit wall-mounted gas boilers “HYDROSTA” are designed for both heating and hot water supply of country houses and cottages. The boiler settings are monitored by a built-in microprocessor, which controls the set value of the coolant temperature, while continuously regulating the boiler power. The boiler operating modes can also be controlled manually using a room remote control. Using a digital indicator, you can control the operation of HYDROSTA wall-mounted boilers in all modes, and sound alarm room thermostat makes it possible to obtain the necessary information even at a sufficient distance from the heating unit. The operation of all boiler components is monitored by a telemetry system and, if necessary, transmits a signal about any malfunctions to the control panel. Exhaust gases are removed through a separate chimney duct by a forced ventilation system.
Thus, HYDROSTA wall-mounted gas boilers differ in their class in better side both in quality and reliability.
However, the characteristics of the Gidrosta-250 boiler, like any other heat generator, correspond to the specified parameters only when it is supplied with energy carriers and power supply, also the parameters specified by the standards. So, for example, the voltage in the network should be within 220V ± 10%, which means no less than 200V and no more than 240V. It should be noted that the service life household appliances and its electronics is determined not only by the brand of the foreign manufacturer, but also by the quality of the network power supply in its native country. Any sudden surges in network voltage or even just a power outage can and will cause equipment breakdowns.
Usually the reasons for the manifestation of a surge in mains voltage are higher permissible value power line breaks may occur, which may result in voltage imbalance. In addition, lightning strikes near power lines can also cause overvoltage. In any case, when household appliances fail, you need to file a claim against the culprit of the voltage failure to compensate for the damage incurred. To identify the culprit, the owner of a country property should apply to the local organization Energosbyt. As a rule, specialists from the specified organization carry out an inspection of the scene of the incident and draw up a corresponding report. The applicant is notified of the findings obtained as a result of the survey no later than 30 calendar days from the moment of filing the application.
As for this case, it is not possible to identify the cause of the blown fuse at a distance from the boiler. You should contact your nearest service center, whose specialists can immediately understand the cause of the malfunction and troubleshoot the boiler.
From this article you will learn what problems can arise in the automation of gas boilers, why it is impossible to ignite the igniter, which is why the boiler can turn off for no reason, and most importantly, we will figure out what actions need to be taken to diagnose and eliminate this malfunction.
Owners of non-volatile gas boilers are probably familiar with the situation when, for some reason, it is not possible to ignite the boiler, or a lot of time is spent on ignition. IN in this case The problem lies in the boiler automation.
Today, the gas valve EUROSIT 630 is most often used in domestic and imported gas equipment. It is this valve that performs the function of maintaining the set coolant temperature and, in the event of an emergency, completely shuts off the gas supply to the burners. Further starting of boilers with such automation is only possible manually. However, the cause of a boiler emergency shutdown is not always a real accident.
Let's try to understand this using the example of the Zhitomir-3 boiler. Automatically, it provides protection against loss of flame on the igniter and loss of traction.
Note: All gas-hazardous work must be carried out exclusively by representatives of specialized organizations that have the appropriate permits. Therefore, this article is provided for informational purposes only. This article will also help you monitor the work of the technician and, perhaps, save you from the need to purchase unnecessary spare parts.
Let's decide what we will call igniting the igniter. The EUROSIT 630 valve control knob allows you to switch the boiler to three main modes:
- disabled;
- ignition;
- temperature adjustment (1-7).
To ignite the pilot burner (igniter), you must move the control knob to the “ignition” (spark) position, press it and use the piezo ignition button to ignite the pilot burner. Next, the handle is held for several seconds (no more than 30) and released. The pilot light should continue to burn. This is what we will call igniting the igniter. If the pilot light goes out, you need to repeat the procedure several more times. If this does not help, you need to look for the problem.
At the moment the igniter is ignited, the flame heats the thermocouple, which in turn generates an EMF (approximately 25 mV for working SIT thermocouples), which is supplied through the automation sensor(s) circuit to the solenoid valve.
By pressing the gas valve handle, we manually open the solenoid valve, supplying gas to the igniter, which, if the equipment is operating correctly, is held by the EMF generated by the thermocouple and remains in open position after releasing the handle. The thermocouple itself performs the function of protecting against loss of flame on the igniter. The sensors located in the circuit are normally closed and, when triggered, open their contacts, ensuring complete shutdown of the boiler.
Preparing for work
To carry out work to identify and eliminate problems with igniter ignition, we will need the following tool:
- open-end wrenches No. 9, 10, 12;
- pliers;
- multimeter;
- flathead screwdriver;
- alcohol.
Let's get started
To determine the cause of the malfunction, we will check the thermocouple circuit - solenoid valve. First, let's check the traction sensor. In this boiler it is located on the gas duct. To do this, remove two terminals from the sensor.
We close the two terminals together; they should connect tightly (to do this, you can press them a little with pliers).
We are trying to ignite the igniter. If this was possible, the cause of the malfunction is in the traction sensor. However, do not rush to change it. First, let's check it.
Note: In this work, we dismantle the sensor in order to show the features of its installation on the boiler and its markings. This is not necessary for verification.
Unscrew the two screws securing the draft sensor to the boiler flue.
Please note that the sensor is not attached tightly to the flue body, but is mounted on paronite gaskets. This is necessary in order to reduce heating of the sensor through its contact with the body, and also to ensure a gap between the hole in the flue duct and the plane of the sensor.
We inspect the sensor. Its contacts must be firmly attached to the body. There should be no oxidation on them. The sensor rating (the temperature at which the sensor contact opens) in this case is 75 °C (designation on the housing L75C).
We check the traction sensor with a tester, measuring its resistance. It should be minimal (equal to the resistance of the probes) - 1-2 Ohms. If the sensor does not ring, it is clearly necessary to replace it with a similar one (with the appropriate response temperature).
If the sensor was able to ring, wipe the contacts of the sensor and the circuit terminals with alcohol, tighten them with pliers and dry them. We mount the sensor in place and connect it. We are trying to ignite.
If ignition was successful, the cause of the malfunction has been found and eliminated.
Be sure to check the draft after igniting the main burner. To do this, you can bring your hand to the place where the traction sensor is installed. No heat should come out of this hole. If this happens, it is necessary to eliminate the cause causing insufficient traction. In this case, the sensor works correctly.
Attention! Operating a boiler with a faulty chimney is strictly prohibited!
We remove the terminals from the contacts of the traction breaker and measure the resistance of the circuit. It should be no more than 3 ohms.
If this condition is met, we perform the following actions. Using wrench No. 9, unscrew the nut securing the thermocouple to the traction breaker. Using wrench No. 12, unscrew the traction breaker, which consists of two parts: a brass sleeve and a plastic insert, by half a turn.
We take out the plastic insert with contacts and unscrew the part completely.
Checking the thermocouple. We connect it directly to the solenoid valve (the place where the traction breaker was installed). We fix it with key No. 9.
We ignite the igniter. If it fails, the cause of the malfunction is most likely in the thermocouple. Solenoid valve It rarely fails.
Let's examine the thermocouple. In some cases, the thermocouple can be repaired. It happens that the thermocouple contact disappears. This is not a reason to replace it, just solder it.
It is important that the dielectric gasket is intact.
Make sure the thermocouple is positioned correctly in the pilot flame. The tip of the thermocouple should be immersed in the flame.
To adjust the position of the thermocouple relative to the igniter flame, use a No. 10 wrench to loosen the nut securing the thermocouple to the pilot burner. When moving the thermocouple, you need to install it in correct position and secure with key No. 10.
To make a final verdict on replacement, you can measure the EMF generated by the thermocouple. To do this, it is necessary to ignite the igniter, and, holding the valve handle pressed, measure the EMF between the thermocouple contact and its body. The optimal value should be at least 18 mV. If the thermocouple is working, clean the parts of the traction breaker with alcohol, and also wipe the contact of the thermocouple. Especially if it had to be soldered.
We assemble the traction breaker in the reverse order and connect a thermocouple to it. The parts should not be pressed too hard. The effort must be sufficient to ensure reliable contact. We crimp the terminals with pliers and, after wiping them with alcohol, try to ignite.
Performing all the above steps will surely help you troubleshoot your boiler.
Another cause of problems with ignition may be insufficient gas pressure on the igniter. This occurs due to a clogged nozzle. To clean it, you need to use a No. 10 wrench to loosen the fastening nut. copper tube igniter and remove the nozzle.
Advice: You can lightly tap the igniter to make it easier to remove the nozzle.
We clean the hole in the nozzle of the copper wire. Violation of the hole size is not allowed!
At moments of the most intense gas consumption, the pressure in the central main pipe may drop. Accordingly, the gas pressure at the igniter may also decrease. This may require adjusting the gas pressure at the igniter. Unscrew the fastening screw decorative overlay and remove it.
The adjustment is made by turning the screw on the valve. When turning it counterclockwise, the gas pressure on the igniter increases.
These tips will help you deal with problems with ignition of your boiler. In practice, the most common problems are with the contacts, and not with the sensors. Therefore, if each time you ignite the igniter you have to hold the valve handle longer and longer, we advise you to simply clean the contacts and tighten the automation terminals. In order to avoid real problems with the operation of the automation, we recommend cleaning the boiler in a timely manner.
