Energy efficient kitchen. Passive energy-saving house: revealing all the secrets The best energy-efficient low-rise residential building

We study the problem at real experience, with calculations from specialists and forum members

Due to the steady increase in energy prices and the high cost of gas connection, everything large quantity developers are thinking about building an energy efficient house.

We have already told the readers of our site about what technologies are used in its construction.

And FORUMHOUSE users will help us with this.

From our material you will learn:

• Which house is energy efficient and which is not.
• Is it possible to heat energy efficient house only electricity.
• How to calculate the required thickness of insulation.
• Will building an energy efficient house pay off?

What is energy efficiency

Energy efficient houses are being built in European countries for a long time, but for our country such a dwelling is still exotic.

Many developers are distrustful of the construction of such buildings, considering it an unjustified waste of money.

Let's figure out whether this is true and whether it is profitable to build an energy-efficient house in relation to the climatic conditions of most zones of Russia, including Moscow.

An energy-efficient (energy-passive) house is a building in which the costs associated with energy consumption are on average 30% less than in an ordinary house. Energy efficiency of recent times could be determined by the coefficient of seasonal thermal energy use - E.

• E<= 110 кВт*ч /м2/год – это обычный дом;
• E<= 70 кВт*ч /м2/год – энергоэффективный;
• E<= 15 кВт*ч /м2/год – пассивный.

When calculating the E coefficient, the following are taken into account: the ratio of the area of ​​​​all external surfaces to the entire cubic capacity of the house, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer in the walls, roof and ceilings, the glazing area and the number of people living in the building.

In Europe, to determine the energy efficiency class, it is customary to use the EP coefficient, which determines the amount of electricity spent on heating, hot water supply, light, ventilation and the operation of household electrical appliances.

The starting point is EP = 1 and energy class D, i.e. standard. The modern classification of houses adopted in European countries looks like this:

• EP<= 0,25 – класс А, пассивный дом;
• 0.26 < ЕР <= 0,50 – класс В, экономичный;
• 0,51 < ЕР <= 0,75 – класс С, энергосберегающий дом;
• 0,75 < ЕР <= 1 – класс D, стандартный;
• 1,01< ЕР <= 1.25 – класс Е;
• 1,26 < EP <= 1,50 – класс F;
• EP >1.51 – class G, the most energy-consuming.

In ordinary, insufficiently insulated housing with large heat losses through the building envelope, most of the energy (up to 70%) is spent on heating.

We can say that the owners of such a home heat the street.

Therefore, in European countries, no one will be surprised by the thickness of the insulation in the walls of 300-400 mm, and the outline of the building itself is made airtight.

The required level of air exchange in the house is maintained using a ventilation system, and not the mythical “breathing” of the walls.

But before you buy cubic meters of insulation, you need to understand when additional insulation and the whole range of measures associated with building an energy-efficient house are economically justified.

Energy efficiency in numbers

In our country, the heating season lasts on average 7-8 months, and the climate is more severe than in Europe. Because of this, a lot of controversy arises about whether it is profitable to build here energy saving houses. One of the most frequent statements made by opponents of energy-efficient construction is the argument that in our country the construction of such a building is very expensive, and the costs of its construction will never pay off.
But here is a comment from a member of our portal.

STASNN

In 2012, in the Nizhny Novgorod region, I built an energy-efficient house of 165 square meters. m of heated area with a specific energy consumption for heating of 33 kW*hours per sq. m per year. With an average monthly air temperature in winter of -17°C, the cost of heating with electricity amounted to 62.58 kWh per day.

You should pay attention to the technical characteristics of this house:

• thickness of insulation in the floor – 420 mm;
• insulation thickness in the walls – 365 mm;
• The thickness of the insulation in the roof is 500 mm.

The cottage was built using frame technology. The heating system of the house is electric low-temperature convectors with a total power of 3.5 kW. Also installed in the house is a supply and exhaust ventilation system with a recuperator and a ground heat exchanger for heating street air. Vacuum solar collectors are additionally installed to supply hot water.

Total bill: 3.2 thousand rubles are spent on heating per month. at a 24-hour tariff of 1.7 rubles/kWh.

Also interesting is the experience of forum member Alexander Fedortsov (forum nickname Skeptic), who independently built a frame house of 186 square meters. m on a “insulated Swedish slab” foundation, with a homemade heat accumulator of 1.7 m3 and with electric heating elements embedded in it.

Skeptic

The house is heated with electricity through a water-heated floor system. For heating, a night tariff is used - 0.97 rubles / kW. At night, the coolant in the heat accumulator heats up to the desired temperature and turns off in the morning. The cubic capacity of the house is 560m3.

Result: In winter, in December, heating cost 1.5 thousand rubles. In January, a little less - 2 thousand rubles.

As the experience of our site users shows, anyone can build an energy-efficient home. Moreover, there is no need to equip it with expensive engineering systems such as air recuperators, heat pumps, solar collectors or solar panels. According to a forum member with the nickname Toiss , the main thing is a warm closed circuit, three times superior to modern SNiPs, the absence of cold bridges, warm windows, a well-insulated roof, foundation and walls.

Toiss

Instead of paying 0.5–1 million rubles for gas connection (the price of which is constantly growing), it is better to build an energy-efficient house with an area of ​​up to 200 sq.m. Subject to construction technology and a competent approach, its construction is economically justified for any architectural and structural solutions.

Energy efficiency - basic principles

How and with what to insulate a house is one of the main issues that arise during construction.
And you need to think about this at the design stage. According to Pavel Orlov (forum nickname Smart2305), before economically calculating the justified thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to determine the following initial data, namely:

1. Area of ​​the planned house;
2. Area and type of windows;
3. Façade area;
4. Area of ​​the foundation and ground floor surfaces;
5. Ceiling height, or internal volume of the house;
6. Type of ventilation (natural, forced).

Smart2305

As a basis, we will take a house with an area of ​​170 sq.m., with a ceiling height of 3 m, and a glazing area of ​​30 sq.m. m and the area of ​​enclosing structures is 400 sq.m.

The main heat loss in the house occurs through:

1. Window;
2. Enclosing structures (roof, walls, foundation);
3. Ventilation;

When creating a project for an economically balanced house, it is necessary to strive to ensure that heat losses in all three categories are approximately the same, i.e. 33.3% each. In this case, a balance is achieved between additional insulation and the economic benefits of such insulation.

Maximum heat loss occurs through windows. Therefore, when building an energy-efficient house, it is important to “tie” it to the correct place on the site (large windows face south) for the maximum degree of solar insolation. This will reduce heat loss with a large glazing area.

Smart2305

The most difficult thing is to reduce heat loss through windows. The difference between various modern double-glazed windows is quite insignificant and ranges from 70 to 100 W/sq.m.

If the window area is 30 sq. m, and the level of heat loss is 100 W/sq. m, then the heat loss through the windows will be 3000 W.

Because reducing heat loss through windows is the most difficult thing, then when designing the thermal insulation of the building envelope and ventilation system, for balance, you need to strive for the same values ​​- 3000 W.

Hence the total heat loss of the house will be 3000x3 = 9000 W.

If you try to reduce only the heat loss of the enclosing structures, without reducing the heat loss of windows, this will lead to an unreasonable overspending on insulation.

Heat losses through the enclosing structures are equal to the sum of losses through the foundation, walls, and roof.

Smart2305

It is necessary to strive to equalize heat losses through windows with heat losses through building envelopes.

It is also necessary to reduce heat loss associated with ventilation of premises. According to modern standards, it is necessary that the entire volume of air in a living space is changed once an hour. House with an area of ​​170 sq. m with a ceiling height of 3 m, 500 m3/hour of fresh street air is required.

The volume is calculated by multiplying the area of ​​the premises by the height of the ceilings.

If you ensure the flow of only cold air into the house from the street, then the heat losses will be 16.7x500 = 8350 W. This does not fit into the balance of an energy-efficient house; we cannot say that such a house is energy-saving.

There are two options left:

1. Reduce air exchange, but this does not meet modern standards for required air exchange;
2. Reduce heat losses when supplying cold air to the house.

To heat the cold street air entering the house, the installation of forced, supply and exhaust ventilation systems with a recuperator is used. With the help of this device, the heat of the air leaving the street is transferred to the incoming flow. This improves ventilation efficiency.

The efficiency of recuperators is 70-80%. Read our article on how to build an inexpensive and

Smart2305

By installing a forced supply and exhaust ventilation system with a recuperator in the house (from the example above), it will be possible to reduce heat loss to 2500 W. Without a forced supply and exhaust ventilation system with a recuperator, it is impossible to achieve a balance of heat losses in the house.

Economic feasibility of additional insulation

The main indicator of the economic efficiency of additional insulation of a house is the payback period of the insulation system.

Interesting user experience with nickname Andrey A.A , who compared heating costs in the permanent residence mode of an insulated and non-insulated house. For the purity of the experiment, we take the following data as the initial conditions:

• heating with main gas;
• heat loss through the enclosing structures – 300 kW/h/(sq.m.*year);
• the house has a service life of 33 years.

Andrey A.A.

To begin with, I calculated the annual heating costs in permanent residence mode without additional insulation. After my calculations, the cost of heating an uninsulated house of 120 sq.m., with its heat loss of 300 kW/h/(sq.m.*year), amounted to 32 thousand rubles. per year (provided that the price for 1 m3 of gas until 2030 will be 7.5 rubles).

Now let’s calculate how much you can save if you properly insulate your house.

Andrey A.A.

According to my calculations, additional insulation will reduce the heat loss of my home by approximately 1.6 times. Hence, with heating costs equal to 1.1 million rubles for 33 years (32 thousand rubles per year x 33 years), after insulation you can save 1.1-1.1/1.6 = 400 thousand on energy costs . rub.

To get 100% economic benefit from additional insulation, it is necessary that the amount spent on additional insulation does not exceed half the amount saved on energy costs.

Those. for this example, insulation costs should not exceed 200 thousand rubles.

After a year of operation, it turned out that after additional insulation, heat loss decreased not by 1.6, but by 2 times, and all the work done (since the insulation was carried out on our own, and the money was spent only on the purchase of insulation) paid for itself many times over.

Also interesting is the approach to calculating the profitability of additional insulation from a forum member with the nickname mfcn:

– Consider the following hypothetical conditions:

• in the house +20°C, outside -5°C;
• heating period – 180 days;
• house - with a single-layer frame, costing 8,000 rubles/m3, insulated with mineral wool at 1,500 rubles/m3;
• installation cost – 1000 rubles/m3 of insulation;
• frame pitch – 600 mm, thickness – 50 mm.

Based on these data, a cubic meter of insulation costs 3,000 rubles.

A two-story house, built in just 4 months, consumes half as much energy as standard buildings, and at the same time has an affordable price.

The cottage, built in 2014 on the territory of the Emerald Valley residential complex in the Borovsky district of the Kaluga region, became the winner of the Second All-Russian competition of implemented projects in the field of energy saving, increasing energy efficiency and energy development ENES, initiated by the Ministry of Energy of the Russian Federation. A two-story house, erected in just 4 months, consumes at least half as much energy as standard buildings, while it has an affordable price. The final cost of one square meter for the customer was 22,755 rubles/sq.m. m.

The construction, which confirmed the engineers’ calculations in practice, marked the beginning of the implementation of the unique TECHNONICOL HOUSE project, which provides for the construction of affordable turnkey residential buildings of any layout throughout the Russian Federation using ready-made, comprehensively selected energy-efficient technologies. We talked about the prospects that this project opens up for future residents and contractors with the head of the TECHNONICOL HOUSE project, implemented by the largest manufacturer of roofing, waterproofing and thermal insulation materials in Russia and Europe, the TechnoNIKOL company, Andrey Bannov.

Andrey, the TECHNONICOL HOUSE project offers comprehensive solutions for the development of energy-efficient low-rise construction. How great is the demand for resource-saving technologies in the cottage construction segment today?

Over the past 10 years, the volume of cottage construction in Russia has increased significantly. Following Europe's move to the suburbs, residents of our megacities are increasingly choosing the comfort and silence of a private home instead of the bustle of high-rise buildings. Demand creates supply: a large number of contracting organizations specializing in low-rise construction have appeared on the market. However, the economic crisis that we are witnessing today has become a unique challenge. To survive in the market, small businesses will have to transform quantitative volumes into quality. In the current conditions, those contractors who are able to optimize their costs and at the same time offer a higher quality product will be able to maintain their positions. Modern business technologies and standards for energy-efficient housing construction TECHNONICOL HOUSE meet these criteria and can become a lifeline for small contracting businesses.

In developed countries, private houses have become an affordable solution to the housing problem precisely thanks to the use of the most advanced construction technologies. First of all, we are talking about the energy efficiency of such houses. After all, the cost of operating a building, according to statistics, is up to 75% of the cost of owning it. Until recently, in energy-rich Russia, building energy consumption was practically not taken into account. But rising tariffs for energy resources and housing and communal services are radically changing people’s attitudes towards the issue of energy efficiency. Working on DOM TECHNONICOL standards, we maintained a balance between the cost of construction and the effectiveness of energy-saving solutions. As a result, the cost of gas heating of a two-story cottage with an area of ​​90 square meters. m. according to current tariffs in the Moscow region will amount to no more than 500 rubles per month or 4,500 rubles per year, electric heating of such a house will cost a little more: 2,500 rubles per month or 22,500 rubles per year, and the payback period for energy-saving solutions does not exceed 7 years.

One of the factors hindering the development of energy-efficient construction is additional costs - for the same thermal insulation materials. According to official statistics, they lead to an increase in the cost of housing by at least 7%. How is the economic affordability of TECHNONICOL HOUSES achieved?

One of the goals of the TECHNONICOL HOUSE project is to make energy-efficient construction affordable. We analyzed a huge number of enclosing structures that have positive practice in the northern countries of the world, and chose the most optimal set for our country (foundation, walls, roofing, windows, engineering systems). Everything was analyzed: the cost of construction, the reliability of design solutions, durability, heat-saving properties, convenience/complexity and installation time, the possibility of equipping with materials and structures available in the Russian Federation.

In accordance with the developed standards, today the final cost of a TECHNONICOL HOUSE, ready for occupancy, for the buyer will not exceed 25 thousand rubles per sq. m. m. This is the cost per square meter of a full-fledged cottage, installed on an insulated reinforced concrete foundation slab, with external and internal finishing, internal utilities and warm windows. The external walls of the house are insulated with a 25-centimeter layer of stone wool, the roof with a 30-centimeter layer.

If we consider the minimum package without utilities and interior decoration, that is, what we are used to on the market, then the price benefit is even more noticeable. The cost of a “house box” with roofing, exterior finishing and windows will be no more than 15 thousand rubles per sq. m. m. The low financial component of house kits while maintaining high quality is based on the manufacturability of construction, the use of building materials of our own production and the absence of additional logistics costs. Most of the materials are produced at our company’s factories, which are widely represented throughout the country.

How reliable and proven technologies are used for the construction of TECHNONICOL HOUSES? What are the benefits of participating in a project for contractors, other than price?

Having studied the experience of frame house construction in the northern countries and the specifics of the Russian market, we have created unique engineering documentation, necessary and sufficient for a team of 5 people to build resource-saving houses on a turnkey wooden frame of almost any layout according to individual and standard drawings. TECHNONICOL HOUSE standards were developed by TechnoNIKOL engineers together with the Passive House Institute, taking into account the load-bearing capacity of structures, minimizing cold bridges, and ease of installation. Using ready-made solutions allows the contractor to save on design costs and minimize the risk of errors. In addition, we have developed an automated document flow system to standardize the processes of providing construction and installation services and created an infrastructure for training in DOM TECHNONICOL standards on the basis of the TechnoNIKOL Construction Academy, which includes 15 Training centers in the Russian Federation and the CIS, which makes the training process accessible to contractors throughout countries.

- What are the future prospects for the development of the project? In which regions is it planned to be implemented?

The successful implementation of a pilot project in the Kaluga region allowed us to move on to the first stage of scaling up positive experience in 6 regions of the Russian Federation. TECHNONICOL HOUSES will soon appear in the Moscow, Leningrad, Lipetsk and Ryazan regions, Krasnodar Territory and the Republic of Crimea. TECHNONICOL HOUSE standards allow you to build a 1- or 2-story house with a unique or standard layout anywhere in the Russian Federation, suitable for the construction of residential single-apartment buildings with a GSN of no higher than 7,400. In the future, we plan to develop the project throughout the entire Russian Federation.

While studying a variety of different equipment and modern developments designed to save energy, we became interested in two very interesting systems. We invite you to take a closer look at them. One - known to many as a heat pump and less known in our market - is climatic. Our calculations have shown that their interaction achieves the most rational use of energy resources necessary to achieve a comfortable microclimate and clean mountain air in the premises. We propose to make them work together, and in an emergency they can work separately, maintaining a comfortable temperature in the rooms.

A heat pump is able to extract the energy of the Earth and transfer it to a coolant fluid. The climate system, in turn, works with a gaseous coolant. The energy received from the pump is transferred to the heated floor, through a parallel branch of pipelines for hot water supply and pool heating (if available), and to the climate system, which corrects the quality, temperature and humidity of the indoor air.

I expressed my thoughts in one article in the most understandable language

SpoilerTarget">Spoiler

24.04.2014
Microclimate of an energy-efficient house. Part 1. Ventilation.
You come from work to your large house with an area of, for example, 200 m2, turn the ventilation control knob to “1” and get your required 30 cubic meters of fresh air so that the concentration of carbon dioxide does not exceed 0.12% or 1200 ppmv (by volume). Then the children come from school and you move the knob to 2nd speed so that 60 cubic meters per hour is supplied, then the husband and 3rd speed and already 120 cubic meters per hour, and so on until the morning until everyone leaves home on their own business.

A bit of a comical situation, isn't it? But this is exactly what the modern Code of Construction Norms and Rules (SNiP) requires. It requires, but does not explain, how the ventilation system should “guess” which room and how much air needs to be supplied at each moment, and why 30m3 per person or 3m3 per 1m2 of living space? After all, a person uses only 0.5 m3 (500 liters) of air per hour to breathe.

Let's try to figure out where the figure of 30 m3 per hour per person comes from? The fact is that all these requirements relate to the design of the most common mixing (or mixing) ventilation system, in which fresh air from the street is mixed with air into the room.

Is there any other way of ventilation?
-Yes, there is, but more on that below.

It is well known that a person exhales approximately 24 liters of carbon dioxide (CO2) per hour. In natural clean air, the CO2 concentration is about 400ppm, or 0.4 liters per 1 m3 of air. In cities, this figure goes far beyond 550 ppm, or 0.55 liters per 1 m3.

Winter is not summer, all the windows are closed and every hour, each resident in the house adds 24 liters of carbon dioxide, which must be removed so that the CO2 concentration does not exceed the permissible sanitary standard of 0.12%, 1200 ppm, or 1.2 liters of CO2 per 1 cubic meter of air. Thus, every 1 cubic meter thrown into the street. meter of air carries with it 1.2 liters of carbon dioxide, and in return receives 1 cubic meter. clean air with a concentration of 0.4 liters per 1 cubic meter. meter. The difference in CO2 is 0.8 liters for each cubic meter of air exchange operation.

It is necessary to throw out 24 liters of carbon dioxide per hour from one person, or 24 liters/0.8 liters = 30 cubic meters of dirty air, replacing it with clean air, just to keep the concentration inside the house at the maximum permissible level of 1200 ppm, or 0.12% of CO2 and not go beyond limits of sanitary standards.

What if you need cleaner air, for example 600ppm CO2? Then you will need to draw 24l/(0.6-0.4)=120m3 per person or 480m3 for a family of 4 people. What if the whole family gathered in the living room for tea or to watch a movie? How to supply such a gigantic volume of air into one room?
The problems do not end there; in winter, 480 m3 will carry away 6 kWh of thermal energy per hour, or 144 kWh per day, which is equivalent to the cost of heating another house with an area of ​​200 m2. In place of the used air, dry frosty air from the street will come in, which will destroy the last remnants of indoor moisture, so necessary for a healthy life. And even by increasing the air circulation almost to infinity with mixing ventilation, it is not possible to achieve external air purity; the discomfort in the house from draft, dryness and temperature imbalance will only increase.

What to do?

Partially, 70-80% of the problem of heat losses and moisture return through ventilation is solved by modern recuperators, but even the remaining 25% of heat losses remain huge and incompatible with the concepts of efficiency, comfortable living, energy saving and reasonable ventilation costs.

The presence of a recuperator in a modern ventilation system is a necessary element, but not sufficient. A much more effective and important solution, in our opinion, is the competent installation of a displacement ventilation method in the house instead of a mixing one. “The huge advantage of the displacement ventilation method is that with the same air exchange rate, it provides significantly higher air quality than mixing ventilation.” Quote from “Displacement ventilation in non-industrial premises. REHVA guidebook."

In theory the displacement ventilation method is 6 to 8 times more effective than the mixing method, especially for harmful substances with low concentrations, such as styrene, phenols, formaldehydes, and most anthropotoxins released by humans when breathing.

However, in practice, realizing such superiority is not always possible. For example, high-temperature heating (with radiators or convectors) is not compatible with the displacement ventilation method. Most of the fresh, colder air, heated by the radiators, will sharply rush upward, to the ceiling, where it will be removed through the exhaust ducts without being used for its intended purpose.

The best option for implementation displacement ventilation will be a low temperature heating system,

A control sensor is required depending on the carbon dioxide concentration. Then the ventilation system becomes “smart”, it tracks the location of the owners in the house, and always delivers clean air to them in a targeted manner. It follows that there is no need for one huge, powerful ventilation unit for the whole house. It is enough to have a “sandwich” of several small ventilation recuperators, each of which will be responsible for its own service area. In this case, energy consumption is automatically reduced and the problem of freezing of recuperators is solved in severe frosts, due to the cyclicity and sequence of operation of the recuperators.

There are other more economical and equally effective solutions for building a ventilation system, which we talk about at seminars and individual consultations.

The size of service areas matters. Any manager who sells ventilation systems will tell you that the larger the room, the more problems there are with organizing ventilation in it and will suggest you install a thick supply and exhaust system. Although in fact everything is exactly the opposite. A large room does not need ventilation at all. A living room with an area of ​​50 m2 is capable of holding about 50 cubic meters of used air under the ceiling, the total exhalation of 4 people for 25 hours! A couple of ventilations a day and the problem of clean air will be solved.

Suffice it to remember the school class and the teacher’s request: “Ivanov, open the transom!” In all Soviet schools, ventilation was organized using such an ingenious method as ventilation through a transom. Standing, the teacher was the first to feel when the dirty air began to descend to the level of breathing. Having opened the transom, cold fresh air fell down the window like a waterfall, was heated by intense mixing with warm air from the radiators and went directly into the students’ breathing zone. Dirty, under-ceiling air was quickly removed through the upper part of the open transom. Simple and effective.

Another very common mistake, which is made by “advanced” manufacturers of ventilation systems, allowing contact of fresh, living air with heating elements. The fact is that the metal surface of the heater acts as a catalyst on which an endothermic oxidation reaction develops, reducing ionization and changing the chemical composition of the air, making it “dead”, which cannot be said about the heat exchange processes occurring in the recuperator, where two gaseous media exchange heat and moisture through a special membrane with a minimum temperature difference.

The main points to pay attention to when organizing ventilation in an energy-efficient house.

• Any ventilation does not fit well with radiator or convector heating methods.
• The larger the room, the less it needs a ventilation system; periodic ventilation is sufficient.
• Only the displacement principle of ventilation is in good agreement with the principles of energy saving, air quality in the service area and living comfort.
• The most suitable option for implementation displacement ventilation is a low temperature heating system, for example, warm floors or warm walls.
• Heating fresh air with heating elements is not permitted.
• For displacement ventilation to work, it is necessary to supply air with a temperature lower than the room temperature to the lower part of the room. The hood is always under the ceiling. Back in the 19th century, the outstanding academician Vladimir Efimovich Grum-Grzhimailo pointed out that “the temperature of the supply air should be + 15°C, then the air will not immediately rise up and your feet will not get cold…”
• Ventilation must be targeted, smart and controlled based on the results of monitoring the air quality in each room.
• It is better to have a separate heat exchanger for each serviced area than one large unit for the whole house.
• The hood from the kitchen, the umbrella over the hob, must be made with a separate air duct.
• Air ducts from bathrooms should not be connected into one channel with air ducts from living rooms.
• It is advisable to use air ducts with an internal smooth surface. Not corrugated at all.
• When routing air ducts, the fewer angles and horizontal turns, the better.

Operation of displacement ventilation in a small room
GOST 30494-2011, corresponds to the category "High air quality".

In total, within one hour, displacement ventilation will work for about 20-25 minutes, maintaining an average carbon dioxide level of 850 ppm and will replace only 12-15m3 air. For comparison, stirring ventilation would require air exchange in volume 53m3 per hour to maintain air purity at the same level of 850ppm.

If there are several people in the room and the CO2 concentration exceeds 1000ppm, the controller will switch the heat exchanger to an increased 2nd ventilation speed.

I think it will be useful for those who do their own ventilation in their home.
Criticize.
Throw stones, everything will be good.

There is one room that is the heart of the house - the kitchen. There are many reasons why we love our kitchen - including the fact that food is found there, but did you know that it is also one of the easiest places in your home. If you've been looking to make your living space more energy efficient, then the kitchen is a great place to start—and you can see the results almost immediately.

One of the reasons that it is so easy to make an impressive difference to the overall energy efficiency of your kitchen is that some of your home's bulkiest appliances are located there. Here are some simple tips to get the most out of your kitchen appliances and use them in the most energy efficient way:

Dishwasher

Using a dishwasher can be more energy efficient than washing dishes by hand—if you follow a few rules. First, make sure the dishwasher is full before you run it. If you only have one plate or a few forks per sink, washing by hand will likely save more water.

Secondly, most modern dishwashers are powerful enough that they can remove food residue without first rinsing it in the sink, this step will save you a lot of water and energy. If your dishwasher is more than 10 years old, upgrading to the Energy Star model with the highest rating is likely the best option.

Fridge

One common mistake is setting the temperature too low. You can look in your owner's manual to determine the optimal temperature range (usually around 2° -3° C), but if you notice that some of your food is even too frozen, you should raise the temperature a little or move the food to other zones. . Remember that for every 2 degrees below 3°C, your unit uses 5% more power, so if you have it set at 2°C and it's too cold, consider raising it a few degrees.

Another simple tip is to use utensils that provide a better insulating barrier, keeping food and drinks cold. Finally, every year or so, unplugging the refrigerator, moving it away from the wall, and vacuuming should keep the refrigerator coil clean.

In our last tip, we noted that using a dishwasher is indeed more efficient than washing dishes in the sink, but this is only really true if you do a full dishwasher load. If you live alone or simply don’t have that many dishes to wash and prefer to wash with your hands, then an effective way to control the amount of water is to install a faucet sensor or a faucet pedal that makes it convenient to control the flow of water with your feet.

Tip 3: Make sure your cookware is safe and environmentally friendly

It is better to use safe non-stick cookware. Many professional chefs are known to use old-fashioned cast iron cookware, but this can only add iron to our diet.

There are times when you bring home a new carton of eggs only to realize there are still half left hidden in the back of the refrigerator. You can keep a notebook that will be attached to the refrigerator, where a list of products will be written, the date of purchase or bookmarks in the refrigerator and the shelf life.

Simply place all of your more perishable items close to expiring ones in sight and teach other members of your family to check the items in the sorting window first when they open the refrigerator.

Tip 5: Invest in quality glass or aluminum food storage containers

Plastic wrap and foil may seem convenient, but they are wasteful and let's face it, even annoying to use. That's why we recommend reusable glass microwave containers for storing leftovers with zero waste and no hassle.

Some families even serve meals straight from these family-style containers, so at the end of the meal, you simply pop the lid on and refrigerate. In addition, this cookware will serve you for a long time.