In the master class we will look at the most simple technique decoupage and typical mistakes newcomers.

Materials and tools

For work we will need:

• wooden tray- blank for decoupage
• napkins 2 pcs
• primer "Vintage Design" (or "Sonnet" or "TAIR")
• decoupage glue (or regular PVA glue)
• matte transparent varnish for decoupage
• acrylic paint white, brown and light green
• wide brush
• dish sponge
• candle
• sandpaper
• optional - black stamp and stamp pad
• optional - hairdryer

Master class on decoupage tray

1. Take a wooden tray and sand it sandpaper over the entire surface

2. Cover the workpiece with soil in one layer.

The primer helps protect the wood from moisture and allows you to waste less paint, which is applied on top.

The primer can be applied with a wide brush or dish sponge.

Let it dry. You can use a hairdryer to speed up drying.

3. After drying, apply a layer of brown acrylic paint.

In some places, light green paint can be applied to brown paint to create the effect of smooth color transitions in the finished work.

4. Angles and side surfaces rub with a candle.

5. Paint the entire tray with white acrylic paint. Let it dry well!

6. After drying, we go through sandpaper in those places where the candle was applied.

7. Take napkins for decoupage

8. Carefully tear out the pattern that we want to glue onto the tray. Place face down on the file (multi-fork, package).

9. Apply decoupage glue or PVA diluted with water with a brush.

10. Place it on the tray in the places where we want to place the design and gently smooth it out. We remove the file (multi-fork).

Apply the rest of the patterns in the same way.

11. On last stage You can put a text stamp on the tray.

To do this you will need a stamp and a stamp pad. "Distress Inc" stamp pads are not suitable for this, as the next layer of varnish will smudge them.

12. Apply a layer of transparent matte varnish for decoupage. Let it dry well.

Finished tray in shabby chic style:

Ready-made tray in the "shabby chic" style using decoupage technique.

Examples of errors in decoupage:

1. If you apply a napkin to dark paint, the design will not be visible. The dark layer shows through the napkin.

2. If you glue the drawing before applying the last white layer of paint, then you need to “outline” the drawing so as not to paint it over. There are no smooth transitions between layers. Drawing and upper layer the tray does not create the impression of integrity.

3. Don’t overdo it with a candle and sandpaper! The paint comes off very badly from the sandpaper in the place where the candle was applied. Too many abrasions, gives the impression of an overly old and sloppy thing. It's not "shabby chic" anymore!

To create multi-layering and smooth transitions, you can create the effect of a pattern shining through from below.
To do this, apply another layer of primer (very thin) to the varnished tray. Then, with a damp cloth, we erase the soil in the places where the design was applied.
The drawing is visible, but covered with a thin whitish layer.
Next, glue the napkin pattern next to it and apply a layer of varnish to the entire tray.
These manipulations complicate the process, but allow you to achieve an interesting effect: the flowers on the tray are both pale with a slight whitishness and clearly expressed, light abrasion and handwritten text. It's truly shabby chic!

Shabby chic(English shabby - worn, shabby)– the name of a style in interior, decor, fashion. The name itself can literally be translated as “shabby shine” or “shabby chic,” which reflects its essence. American style appeared in the late 1980s; its author is Rachel Ashwell. Rachel Ashwell). She started by decorating old furniture purchased at sales and flea markets, at first own home. Over time, the hobby moved to a new level and sales began. Furniture restored in soft, light colors has become very popular. Over time, Ashwell created a number of accessories in the corresponding style for furniture; the range expanded from tea sets to textiles.
The shabby chic style was greatly influenced by the vintage style. Vintage (from the French vintage - wine aged for many years) - a direction based on the combination of modern and old, and sometimes even antique objects in the interior. Shabby chic can be called vintage turned inside out, since the interior decor in the shabby chic style suggests a kind of protest against excessive luxury.
The essence of the style is that furniture and interior items are artificially aged. Shabby chic - shabby chic. Items can be both old and new, painted mainly in light pastel colors and worn out in places, with delicate roses or birds, or without patterns at all, a lot of delicate textiles, napkins, pillows, bedspreads, covers on chairs and armchairs.

Basic elements of the Shabby chic style:
- use of delicate pastel colors: boiling white, ivory, soft pink, light blue;
- objects used in decoration should have a worn effect - several layers of paint should be visible (as if the table or stool had been painted many times), patina;
— pastoral motifs are used as ornaments, which are similar to shabby chic and the “rococo” style - roses and angels of pastel colors;
— forget about geometric patterns! Only “classics of the genre” are acceptable - thin stripes or checkered patterns;
— hand-made is only encouraged;
- use of traditional, high-quality items made from natural materials.
Flowers are very an important part this style, especially the rosebuds. Leftover fabric, old sheets, old curtains and other fabrics can all be used to create your style. Use them for pillows upholstered furniture and woven rugs.


In decoupage, the shabby chic style is very popular. This style is used to decorate furniture, plates, boxes, mirrors, wall panels. For work, various aging techniques are used, smoky (shadow) decoupage, volumetric decoupage, less often - decopatch, gilding and leaf, but only if these elements do not overwhelm the overall meaning of shabby: light colors with an advantage of boiling white, pastel accents, a feeling of light and spaciousness , romance, a soft touch of antiquity.



Shabby chic decor items: also antique. Antique clocks, bronze, faded paintings in antique frames, old televisions, gramophones, vases, candelabra, an antique telephone, various small objects from past eras, even a rusty charcoal iron. Flowers enliven the interior, but again in aged pots or even boxes. Since the shabby chic interior does not express a specific style, the decorative items will be those whose “aging” expresses the style you have chosen. There may be aged country items, as well as various classic styles.

In any case, you should remember that the shabby chic style prefers to fashion a demonstration of quality and good taste in everything. Shabby chic in the interior is a combination of two incompatible concepts - beauty and shabbyness. The style takes inspiration from antiques, and plays with the same antique finish. The shabby chic style is not afraid to show defects as a result of the ruthlessness of time in relation to objects, but on the contrary, it openly demonstrates it. Do not confuse a shabby chic interior with a junk dealer's home. Shabby chic style uses traditional, high-quality items made from natural materials. The antiquity of such items only increases their value.

Shabby chic design can be called bold. This interior design solution is not suitable for everyone, and even then, one room or a thematic area of ​​the house is often done in this style rather than the entire apartment or house. The shabby chic style is suitable for people with an artistic streak, creators, photographers, painters, or studios.

Shabby chic decoupage is a way to update old furniture, which in the process of decoration gives it sophistication and vintage. The works made using shabby chic decoupage are distinguished by an imitation of an antique surface, a color scheme within pastel shades, and the use of details similar to the interior decoration of old England.

Historical reports

The founder of the shabby chic style is considered to be the Englishwoman Rachel Ashwell. In the 1980s, when Britain was gripped by a massive obsession with the loft industry, romantic nature the girls demanded the atmosphere of traditional old England. Rachel went for a walk around the flea market, where she managed to buy a couple of cute, but outdated, little things.

Ashwell carried out the restoration of the finds by applying various techniques decoration. Updated versions of junk and rubbish after processing by the needlewoman were distinguished by sophistication, sophistication and elegance.

Restoration using decoupage technique

The widest range of applications of decoupage techniques in the shabby chic style, restoring furniture, improving the design of individual interior items, finishing the floor - all this gives the imagination of craftswomen complete freedom. The following handcrafted examples of Old English style will serve as inspiration for future decorating decisions..

Updating a chest of drawers, a table or a chair can radically transform the atmosphere not only separate room, but also throughout the house. We present to your attention a master class on decoupage furniture in the shabby chic style.

Chair decoupage (master class)

Let's start with the list of tools and materials necessary for restoring a chair:

• acrylic paint;
• burnt acrylic umber;
• naturally produced acrylic sienna;
• acrylic lacquer;
• brushes of various sizes;
• sandpaper;
• candle;
• paper napkins.

Decorating a chair using the shabby chic decoupage technique has the following steps:

• Preparation. Before you begin the process of direct decoration, you need to carry out preliminary work to remove a layer of varnish or paint from the surface of the fittings. As a final result, the furniture area should take on a minimally rough and maximally smooth structure.

Preparing the surface for painting

• Creating abrasions . An optional item that you can safely skip if the idea you have in mind does not involve scuffs on the item being decorated. Painting the areas where supposed abrasions will be located with burnt acrylic umber helps create fake wear. These areas require waxing the candle and then removing the excess.

Painting a chair with burnt umber or other dark paint

• Painting. Acrylic paint white mix with natural sienna - this will give the painting raw material a milky-creamy shade. Divide the mass into several parts and add PVA glue. Paint all the elements of the chair using a brush. If necessary, the base layer can be secured with several thin layers acrylic

Painting a chair with white acrylic paint

• Grinding. Use sandpaper to remove the roughness of the dried paint.

Surface grinding

• Decoration . Having determined the area where the napkins will be placed, apply a layer of acrylic varnish to the painted area and secure the prepared napkins with PVA glue.

Glue the picture using PVA

• Conclusion. For complete readiness, it is necessary to treat the item with a silky matte varnish.

The finishing touch

On video: chair decor in shabby chic style

Box decor (master class)

Hand decoupage of a box in the shabby chic style turns the most inconspicuous box into a bright mini-chest for storing things for various purposes. Homemade box - best option handmade gift.

Before starting work, make sure you have work area things like:

• wooden box;
• acrylic white and umber paints;
• skins of varying coarseness;
• wax candle;
• PVA glue;
• synthetic bristle brush;
• water spray;
• water-soluble varnish coating.

1. Prepare a wooden box by removing all fasteners and handles from it.

Wooden box

2. Dilute a mixture of natural umber and water in a container. The density of the future primer-paint should be similar to the consistency of kefir. Apply a layer of the resulting mixture to those places on the box where you plan to make abrasions.

3. After the brown layer of paint has dried, the stage of rubbing the necessary areas with wax/wax candle begins. Brush off any excess with a brush.

Rub the product with a candle

4. Paint the product with white paint diluted with water.

Paint it white

5. After the coating has completely dried, use rough sandpaper to make abrasions until the primer appears.

Making abrasions

6. Cut out the pattern of the future decoration from a napkin and separate its layers, then attach the pattern to the box (on a pre-glued decorated area). Apply glue to the top of the image again.

Glue the design to the surface

7. Secure the result with acrylic varnish.

Final result

As you can see from the above MK, anyone can create a box in the shabby chic style with a little effort and patience. At the same time, the final work will pleasantly surprise you. World-famous designers use the shabby chic style to create interiors, because imbued with romance and a mood of lightness, it delights connoisseurs with its sophisticated and ancient atmosphere.

It is noteworthy that the decoupage technique is preserved regardless of the object, so you can safely use the given master classes to decorate literally every wooden object, be it a chest of drawers, a table, doors, walls or even a tray.

Decoupage of old furniture in shabby chic style (2 videos)

Decoupage ideas in shabby chic style (40 photos)

Master classes from decoupage masters

Subtle abrasions. Creating a box in the shabby chic style from the master “Chest of Wonderful Things” (Olga)

I decided to show how I did one of my works, I hope MK will be useful to someone.

1. Here is a blank made from MDF. I removed the pencil with an eraser and sanded it.
2. I also sanded the inside.
3. A napkin that I will use to decorate.
4. Sanded and prepared the brush, roller and primer.
Many people prime immediately with black primer. If there is one, then they can do it too. I don’t have black primer, only white, so I prime with it.

I applied the primer with a brush.
6. Leveled it with a roller.
7. I also primed the inside, it will be painted there, and on smooth surface mdf paint will lie unevenly (you can see it on the ground).
8 Now I’ve covered everything tightly with soil, now it needs to dry thoroughly. I primed it in 2 layers and let it dry; if it was wood, then 1 layer would be enough. Sanded with fine sandpaper 240.

9. Since I primed with white, I need to coat it with dark, shabby scuffs are usually dark, black. Personally, I don’t really like black, I think it looks a bit harsh. I love more soft colors, so I mix black and burnt umber.
10. It turns out to be a delicious dark chocolate color.
11. I cover the box with this color using a brush, level it with a roller, dry it and sand it with fine sandpaper.
12. The paint remains, it’s a shame to throw it away. You can cover it with film or put it in a jar; under the film you can use it for 24 hours, after which it will begin to dry out.

13. Now the most interesting thing - we take a candle, I rub it with a candle only where I want there to be strong abrasions and chips, and where they actually form in reality.
14. These are the most convex parts: legs, corners - what breaks and chips first. And a few strokes somewhere. I sweep away the paraffin pellets with a hard brush.
15. Now we need to cover light color. Shabby chic usually uses white and pastel colors. I don’t want completely white, so I take warm white.
You can make it yourself - you can add a drop of ocher to the white one. it will work out Ivory; if the umber is burnt, then there will be a pinkish tint, if the umber is natural, then it will have a slightly greenish tint, etc.
16. Here you can see the difference between white and warm white.

17. One layer, the bottom one is visible, it needs to be thicker.
18. Two layers
19. Here she is all.
20. I take 240 sandpaper and begin to work actively.

21.Well, that’s actually what happens.
22, 23. In other places I simply rubbed vigorously with sandpaper to create abrasions. Thanks to the fibrous structure of MDF, abrasions are interesting.
24. Work angles are more active.

And this is what happened

29. I glue the napkin using a file.
30. You can smooth it out with a rubber roller or spatula. Using a spatula with strong pressure can flatten the napkin, so I do everything carefully.
31, 32. I coat the top with glue again, focusing Special attention chamfer, you need to coat everything well and press it with a brush, because if there is a bubble or even more than one, everything will just start to come off, and the work will have a poor quality appearance. Then I dry everything well.

33. The box is dried and covered with 1 layer of varnish for protection. Firstly, I protect the napkin, and secondly, I will be working with stamps next, and if suddenly something goes wrong, then I can wash everything off.
34. For stamping, I select the paint to match the motif; I want to make lace; this is quite suitable for the shabby chic style.
I mix white, natural umber, and a little bit of sienna.
35. Silicone stamp.
36. Mixing paint.

37. I distribute the paint over the entire plate, this makes it easier to dip the sponge.
38. A piece of sponge will be needed.
39. Dip the sponge into the paint, distribute it evenly, remove the excess on a paper towel.
40. Now we rub the stamp, don’t hit it, but rather rub it, and without pressing. If you scratch, the paint will get inside the stamp and during subsequent stamping there will be a continuous stain.

You can make a kind of stamp pad: put a cotton cloth folded 2-4 times on a wide plate, piece of glass, tile, or some other material that does not absorb paint, soak it with paint, and then dip the stamp itself - like a stamp. But much more paint is wasted this way.

41. Smeared the stamp

42. You can practice on a piece of paper.

43. Pressed as evenly as possible. You can roll it with a roller, but be careful not to move it, or put a press down and press evenly, but do not press very hard and not pointwise, otherwise there will be dirt.
44. It’s imprinted, but for the box I need it to be a little paler and more delicate, so I’ll smear it even less.

45, 46. I am preparing the stamp for further work.
47 Imprinted on the surface.
48. What happened.

49. That's how it happened.
50. This is the long side of the box, and here the stencil did not completely cover the entire side, so I tried on a dry stencil, did not apply paint completely to it, but only where necessary, I printed it.
51. The transition is visible, but when the paint dries, it will not be so noticeable, but if it is still noticeable, then sandpaper will help. I went over the paint with fine sandpaper, dotted in some places, because I needed old lace.
52. Inside there are 2 layers of soil.

53. The paint did not apply very evenly, so to get a dense color, I applied 3 layers of paint with a brush, and after drying, sanded it with fine sandpaper.
54. These are the aging mediums I use, there are 3 colors.
55-56. These are the colors, I chose the middle one.

57. I will age the inside of the box, because in life it does not happen that if a box has been actively used, it is new on the inside and old on the outside, or vice versa. I will age it with a brush, because the dirt needs to be driven into the corners, which is where it gets most dirty. I put the medium on the brush, blend it on a towel and off I go.
58. I apply it to the corners.
59. Already aged, there is also a nuance here - if you apply it only in the corners, the rest of the surface will be clean, then this also does not happen. But you don’t need to be very bright either, so I just went over everything with an almost dry brush.
60. I also aged the lid and stamped it with the same paint as the outside of the lace, but diluted it a little with a glazing medium so that the imprint was more vague and delicate.

61. I decided to trim the inside with lace. But it must first be prepared. Firstly, any natural lace needs to be wetted, dried and ironed before use, because it tends to shrink, especially if glued to pva, it gets wet from the glue, dries out and becomes shorter. Secondly, I didn’t like the color, everything blends into the surface, so I’ll paint it. You can paint it with paint, you can use a medium, I decided that I would get dirty.
Important! I decorate with lace and ribbon at the last moment (after final varnishing), i.e. the box must be varnished and sanded, varnished.
62, 63. The lace is prepared, put some medium on the sponge and begin to color it lightly.
64. This is how it will look in the box.

65. I will glue it to “Moment Crystal”, there are also special features here. The moment dissolves the paint before it dries. Once dry, it can be removed quite easily. In any case, I removed it easily. But if you run a toothpick over it while it is not dry, it will damage the top layer of paint as well.
The lace seam should be on the side where it is not visible (preferably in the corner). Therefore, we open the box and look at it: the two far corners immediately disappear, so either the right or the left, but the front ones.
66.67. We do not apply glue to the entire surface at once, but gradually. They applied a piece, smeared it with a toothpick, glued it on, and so on.
68. It worked.

And then the decoration of the lid of the box with ribbon, also on the “Moment Crystal”, the joint under the bow, a bow made of lace and ribbon, everything is also glued on the “Moment Crystal”.
Well, and the actual finished result. Vintage box "Sharmel".

http://www.livemaster.ru/topic/794223-nezhnye-pote...katulochki-v-stile-shebbi-shik

Decoupage for beginners - MK from Maya Balagurova (maya125): Decoration cutting board

Materials:

plywood cutting board
three-layer colorful napkin
scissors
brushes, one bristle is flat, the second is round foam
PVA glue
white acrylic paint
acrylic varnish
scissors
so, let's begin:

take the workpiece; if not, we do it ourselves

Decoupage boards. Working with a printed picture - MK from the master Cozetta

Working with decoupage is very interesting, exciting, exciting and amazing! This type of creativity requires great care and tremendous patience! But everything will pay off a hundredfold when the work is finished! You forget about small mistakes and disappointments and proudly decorate your home with a new craft!

Stage 1. Working with a printed picture on a color printer.

We cover the reverse side of the picture with tape. To ensure that the tape adheres evenly, use a plastic card.

Stage 2. We treat the colored side with varnish.

First attach the image by the corners with tape to the board. The varnish must be applied with a soft brush in 5-6 layers. Approximate drying time for one layer is 15-20 minutes!

Stage 3. Separate the picture from the tape.

After the varnish has completely dried, carefully use a pin to pry up the corner of the picture and then slowly pull the bent edge with your fingers towards the center. It turns out thin, like a napkin, a sheet with a picture and White list with tape.

Stage 4. Let's work on the board. Sand the surface of the board with sandpaper to provide a smooth and even surface for further work.

Stage 5. We prime the board.

I needed 2 coats to cover all the gaps in the board. Each layer must be dried!

in the photo: one coat of primer.

Stage 6. We paint one side of the board and its sides with gold acrylic paint. 2-3 layers depending on the density of the paint. Approximate drying time for one layer is 20-30 minutes. ( reverse side I painted the boards with white acrylic paint).

Stage 7. We glue the prepared picture onto the white side with glue.

Apply glue to the surface of the board equal to the area of ​​the picture. Let's add a picture.

Using a roller we smooth the surface, but without fanaticism. We direct the roller from the center to the edges. Don't let the small bubbles fool you! When dry, the picture will smooth out on its own!

Stage 8. When the image is completely dry, remove excess paper using sandpaper.

9 stage. Apply craquelure varnish on the side free from the picture.

Apply varnish in one layer to one side of the board and to its sides. Drying time 30-40 minutes.

Stage 10. Applying white acrylic paint over varnish.

Carefully apply a layer of white acrylic paint in one pass with a soft brush. I moved the brush from top to bottom.

Stage 11. Do the same with the front side in areas free from the image. Keep in mind that the craquelure varnish should not get into the image!

Stage 12. We cover the product with several layers of varnish (dry each layer until completely dry as indicated on the package). And voila - finished work!

Don't forget to wipe the necks of the jars to prevent the lids from drying out!

P.S. Warm Hearts Work Miracles!