A carpenter's mark is a tool for marking wooden surface parallel lines, straight or curved, along which logs are cut or building forms are made. On one board, carefully remove the edge, then use it to apply a marking line on the next strip, which is leaned against the first.
The metal tip leaves a deep longitudinal mark along which further work is carried out.
Features of the carpenter's trait
Working with a carpenter's mark requires care, as the scratch cannot be erased like a pencil mark. Another job that do with the help carpenter's feature is the selection of a longitudinal groove for a tight connection of logs in a wall frame, a bowl of logs, before subjecting it to final processing. The line is used for beating and drawing an even line on the block when planing, processing the boards for their tight fit. The tool is used for marking joints and various marks in carpentry. At the same time, a carpenter's compass is used.
In ancient Russia, when cutting down the walls of houses and churches, carpenters used only an ax and a line. To connect the logs, unique grooves were used that did not require the use of a chisel and chisel. This demonstrated the individual methods of skillful work of ancient masters.
Subsequently in wood finishing The line is replaced by a surface planer, which translated from German means a device for drawing parallel straight or winding lines. This tool is used to copy dimensions from one shape to another part. The difference between the two devices is that instead of a wedge and a line ring, the thicknesser has a moving block with a screw lock.
Drawing principle
Process drawing crowns during the installation of walls requires special skill of a specialist, because from him precise work The quality of the constructed log house depends. Deviations vertically and horizontally when drawing lines are unacceptable; moreover, in the process of work they first make rough markings, then the final clean drawing.
For the production of high-quality logs carpenter needs a lot of time. Currently, the carpentry trait has been improved, and almost new tool, which is called a scriber. Drawing contains the following steps:
- installation of the log of the upper belt, adjustment of the horizontal level on the linings, alignment of the vertical axis of the ends;
- after this comes the drawing stage, which consists in spreading the ends of the scissors to a certain distance, taking into account the thin end of the log, this is done this way, because if you start with a thick butt, then the longitudinal groove may not reach the narrow section;
- You need to draw a line along the level, therefore, moving the needle and pencil to the lower end and the upper, respectively, looking at the bubbles in the device, move the scriber along the log. The same method is used to draw cups.
Possibility to make a tool with your own hands
Simple Trait Option made of wire thick diameter. A similar solution is to drive two long nails into a suitable wooden handle. A mechanic's compass is also used to mark wood. The accuracy of drawing increases as the distance between the teeth of the tool decreases; skill and experience play an important role.
Scriber is a compass mechanical action with built-in level. The latter is intended for precise marking of lines horizontally and vertically. If everything is done correctly, then marking with your own hands will allow you to assemble the log house in such a way that it will not be possible to push a match between the logs.
Scriber is an advanced carpentry trait that has been given two levels. This saved time for the carpenter. After all, now they don’t draw a rough line for marking, but immediately draw a finishing mark.
Carpentry Feature Improvement
Time works to improve the instrument and does not stand still. When drawing markings, the main thing is to ensure horizontal and vertical correspondence lines; for this, the ends of the carpentry line are set using level bubbles. A Canadian inventor proposed an innovation in the form of a marking tool based on a carpenter's line, which he called a scriber. The Russian skilled carpenter did not further ado and developed a different version of the scriber, which later became known as the carpenter’s compass.
Tool for making a modern carpenter's dash
To make it yourself you will need the following tool:
Make it yourself carpenter's compass can be made entirely from scrap materials located nearby. You will only have to buy the appropriate washers and nuts in the store, if they are not in the home craftsman’s storerooms.
The basis of the tool Old, out-of-use metal scissors were put in. Carefully cut off the bolt heads and attach them by welding to the handles of the scissors. To install the pencil and needle mounts, use the threads on the ends of the bolt.
They make a socket for installing the needle and the needle itself, then design it further. The device for installing a pencil is designed in such a way that in addition to it, a needle can be placed in the mount. Flasks with bubbles are taken from old building levels; you will need two of them, for the horizon and vertical.
To determine needle dilation amount and a pencil there is a bar for adjustment. It is fixed with nuts, and the compass is secured in the extended position with clamps made of bolts and washers. To secure the levels, a mounting platform is made. During operation, the pencil lead is ground down, and when the compass is pulled out again, the compass may get lost, so a special template is created, which provides for a joint design of a screwdriver and a head. Alternatively, you can use another needle instead of a pencil.
Finally It should be noted, that if carpenters have used a line for marking for so many centuries, then this tool will be popular in future years, so you can make it yourself and use it to ensure high-quality markings when working with wood.
It consists in the fact that the arrangement of the logs must correspond to the order - “butt to top”. The natural structure of logs is such that they become thinner towards the top. To the walls of the future log house were even, it is necessary to alternate the arrangement of logs, in other words, a log with a thin end should be followed by a log with a thick end.
The second principle of laying logs is that the lower log is laid with the hump up, and the top log with the hump down. After marking and selecting a longitudinal groove, you will receive a parallel arrangement of logs relative to the longitudinal axes. All rows must be laid in exactly this sequence to ensure that the wall is as even as possible.
To mark the corner bowls and the longitudinal groove, a special tool is used, which is called a “dash”. It is quite possible to make such a tool yourself using available materials. To do this, you will need to take a thick wire about 10 mm in diameter. Next, you need to bend it into a V shape, the length of each side should be about 10-15 cm.
The ends of the legs need to be sharpened so that they leave a mark on the wood, scratching it. The resulting tool can be attached to some kind of handle, for which you can use an ordinary stick or the handle of a hammer. To prevent the sides of the tool from moving apart in width, you need to install a wedge between them and wrap them with some kind of cord.
The company "Drevo" is engaged in the construction of houses from logs manual cutting professionally, and therefore our specialists use a professional carpenter’s “line” for marking. In Europe, the “line” is called a “scriber”.
You can see the image of the carpenter's "feature" on Fig.1
A professional carpentry “trick” is quite expensive, this is due to its complex structure and equipment. Levels are built into the professional carpenter's line, which enable carpenters to maintain an even vertical position when applying markings. The entire construction of the log house depends on how correctly the “line” is worked. If you only plan to build one house, then you don’t have to buy a tool at a high cost; instead, you can use a level and an ordinary carpenter’s compass. Of course, such a process will take large quantity time, but if the construction time is not critical, then this is quite acceptable.
How to use "trait" ("scriber")
To correctly apply the markings, the logs must be laid one on top of the other (not forgetting the “butt to top” rule), and then secured with staples. Taking into account the region in which the log house is being built, the width of the future groove is determined. A mark is placed at the end of the log; the distance from the bottom point of the log to this mark should correspond to the width of the longitudinal groove. Then one leg of the instrument is moved to this mark, and the second is moved back to the top of the hump. Thus, we prepared the “line” for work by setting the required interval between the legs of the tool.
Having fixed the legs of the “feature”, we place one leg at the height of our mark, and the other on the surface of the hump of another log, draw a line. Thus, the second leg of the tool creates a line that follows the line of the longitudinal groove of the first log. Subsequently, for convenience, the markings made can be additionally highlighted with a pencil. The marking must be applied on both sides of the logs without changing the “line” settings. This completes the marking of the longitudinal groove.
On Fig.2 You can see the layout of the longitudinal groove.
Now let's start creating a longitudinal groove. Having outlined the log, we can see the resulting groove; it has a rounded shape, repeating the run of the log.
The run of a log is a smooth change in the diameter of the log from the butt to the top.
Thus, all grooves will alternate the direction of inclination. This method can only be used when working with logs that have a slight slope or no slope at all, when the log has an almost cylindrical shape. Or this is applicable to working with logs that are calibrated and have approximately the same thickness at the point of cutting. In this case, the inclination of the grooves does not matter.
Logs of different thicknesses, on which there is a rung, need to be drawn to each other in a slightly different way. The lower log must be placed on special stands so that the hump is aligned as horizontally as possible, after which the log is fixed with brackets. The top log is placed so that its butt is located towards the narrow part bottom log. During the delineation process, it is necessary to maintain the vertical position of the legs of the “line”; only thanks to this can an even groove with a varying width be achieved.
If you mark the groove incorrectly, this will lead to the so-called “kiss” - the edge of one log will only slightly touch the end of the other. Of course, in this case, the conversation is neither about the thermal properties of the log house, nor about the required width of the longitudinal groove. Thus, all the logs are laid one after another and marked to the very top until all the grooves are horizontal.
After the drawing is completed, the log is removed from the brackets and turned upward with the side on which the markings are applied. Next is the sampling itself. The carpenters of the Drevo company use a chainsaw when selecting, making many cuts across the log, moving along the entire length of the trunk, deepening the saw to the depth of the future groove. Drevo specialists do not recommend cutting to the full depth of the groove, but leaving half to one centimeter and then finishing it manually. This can extend the longevity of your building.
To finish cleaning the groove, a tool called an “adze” is used. This is an ax whose sharpened surface is directed across the handle, and not along it like an ordinary ax. There are two types of adze: small and large. Working with a large adze occurs while standing, cutting off the surface with strong blows. They can immediately begin creating a groove, without using an ax.
To further refine the logs, a small adze is used. When the groove is cut, all that remains is to check how well the logs fit together. To do this, a special coloring composition, then a log with a cut groove is placed on top. After such fitting, you will see how the coloring pigment has stained the cut out groove. Those cutting areas that remain clean indicate that they were not touched by the surface of the lower hump.
This means you need to remove excess wood that interferes with the contact of the remaining sections of the groove. Thus, you need to gradually refine the groove until it is completely covered with pigment. There is another way to check how correctly the groove is made. To do this, you need to take a piece of log, about one meter in length, and tap it on the logs that are connected.
After this, remove the log in which the groove is made and look at which places in the groove are jammed. In these places there is excess wood that needs to be removed and the procedure repeated again. The block used to tap the log must be made of soft wood so as not to crush the front surface of the log.
Cutting a longitudinal groove is an operation that combines all types of corner cuts from logs and carriages. On this and subsequent pages of the site we will look at the logical elements of the work, how and what is done, but these elements have little to do with the construction of a real log house. In real construction of a log house, the groove and corner notches are interconnected and work, depending on the type of corner notch, is carried out as a complex.
The general rule for building a log house is to arrange the logs according to the “butt to top” principle. The logs become thinner from the butt to the top. Alternating thin and thick ends along the height of the wall allows you to level the walls of the log house. The lower log is leveled into the horizon with the lower hump, the upper log with the upper hump. Thus, two logs stacked on top of each other are obtained with approximately parallel longitudinal axes. After drawing and selecting a longitudinal groove, their top becomes close to horizontal. You can place and draw another log on it. This is how a wall gradually grows, the top of which tends to the horizon.
The marking of the longitudinal groove and bowls of corner notches is done with a special tool - a “dash”. This tool can be made from available materials, for example, from wire with a diameter of 8–10 mm. The wire is bent into a V shape with the legs approximately 10–15 cm long. In order for the “devil” to scratch the wood and leave a mark, the ends of the legs are sharpened. The tool is attached to a stick or hammer handle. In order to fix the size of the sliding legs of the “dash”, a wedge is inserted between them, and the legs themselves are wrapped with a cord. The real carpentry “trait” is an expensive tool, the imported version is called a scriber. IN modern instruments drawings, levels are built in to control how the legs of the line are held in a vertical position. The entire work of cutting a log house depends on the “correctness” of this tool. To make one single log frame, it is possible that there is no need to purchase an expensive tool; it can be replaced with varying success with a carpenter’s compass and a short level. Unproductive and time-consuming? Yes, this is true, but if no one pushes you with work, then it’s possible.
To attach one log to another, they are laid vertically (butt to top) on top of each other and secured with staples. Depending on the region of construction, determine the width of the longitudinal groove (Fig. 2) and apply a horizontal line on the thin end of the log with a length equal to the width of the longitudinal groove. One leg of the “line” is placed at the center of the drawn line, and the second leg is moved apart and touches the top of the hump of the log. The tool is ready for use - its legs are moved apart to the required distance
Without knocking down the extension of the legs of the “line”, starting from the end of the line of the width of the longitudinal groove, touching with one leg of the “line” the hump, the logs are led along the surface of the hump. In this case, the other leg of the line scratches the end of another log, exactly repeating the line of the hump of the first log. At the end of the log we get a profile of a transverse groove, scratched with a line (Fig. 11). To improve visualization, you can outline it with a pencil.
Next, pushing the handle of the “line” between the logs and moving the tool along the logs, scratch out two lines - this will be the boundary of the groove. Approaching the other end of the log, draw the profile of a longitudinal groove on it. Then they outline the other side of the log. That's basically the whole operation of marking the groove. When drawing logs with the “line” handle sliding between the logs, a groove of even width is obtained, but it is not horizontal, but inclined, repeating the run of the logs. The next highest groove will be inclined in the other direction and so on until the very top of the wall, the grooves will alternate inclination. It is quite obvious that the method is applicable only to logs with a very small slope or no slope at all, practically cylinders, where the inclination of the grooves will be almost unnoticeable. Or to log houses, all the logs of which are calibrated and have approximately the same thickness in cuts (regardless of the run) and in which the inclination of the grooves is not given any importance.
Logs of different sizes with a bevel are drawn slightly differently. The lower log is laid on linings, its lower hump is leveled to the horizon (as far as possible) and secured with staples. Another log is placed on it, turning the butt towards the top of the lower log. The upper hump of this log is leveled into the horizon, after which the log is secured. Marking the width of the longitudinal groove and opening the legs of the “line” are done as in the first option. But the outline of the groove along the logs is carried out horizontally, focusing on the horizontally laid hump of the lower log. Modern carpenters have a “feature” with hydraulic levels, but in extreme cases you can use ordinary chalked cord stretched between the markings on the ends of the logs. When outlining, the drawing ends of the legs of the “line” should be on the same vertical. The longitudinal groove will be horizontal, but of variable width - tapering in one direction. Incorrect outline of the groove and/or incorrect choice of opening the legs of the “line” leads to a “kiss”. This is when, as a result of drawing and cutting out a groove, the end of one of the logs only slightly touches the other. Of course, we are no longer talking about the width of the longitudinal groove and the thermal characteristics of the log house.
Next, the third log is placed, its upper hump is leveled to the horizon and a groove is drawn. Then the next one and so on until the top, all the grooves of the log house are horizontal. But another option is also possible. The third log is not leveled to the horizon, but only the hump of the fourth log is leveled. It turns out to be a kind of paired cutting of a wall, inside each pair of which you can make both an inclined and a horizontal groove.
Carpenter's trait
What to choose? The answer can only be given by the logs themselves, since horizontal grooves on logs with steep slopes can cut off up to half the thickness of the log.
After drawing, the log is freed from temporary fastening with staples and turned over with the scratches facing up. To make it easier to see, the scratches are outlined with a pencil. With strong blows, plunging the heel of the ax blade into the depth of the groove, cross-shaped notches are made along the entire length of the log. The middle of the ax blade should touch the drawn lines. Then a groove is made with the toe of the ax blade: cutting it between the notches and picking out the wood. The work can be speeded up if you use electric or chainsaws. In this case, notches are not made on the log, but many cross cuts and one long cut are made along the log with the end of the chainsaw. You should try not to cut to the full depth of the groove, but leave 0.5–1 cm for manual finishing of the groove. This will extend the life of the log structure.
The final cleaning of the groove is done with an adze, tilting the log in a direction convenient for cutting. An adze is an ax whose cutting plane is directed not along the handle, like a regular axe, but across it, like a pickaxe, but with a rounded cutting edge. There are two types of adze: large and small. The carpenter works with a large adze while standing, delivering strong blows along the log with both hands. With this tool you can immediately select a groove without using a regular ax. A small adze is used with one hand while sitting on a log. This tool is used to “finish” the groove after a larger adze or ax.
Next, the correctness of the groove is checked: the log is “placed on the firebrand.” Hump solid log coated with colored pigment (previously this was done with coal or ash, hence the name) and a log with a groove is planted on it. They remove the grooved log and watch how the colored pigment has stained the groove. A clean place means that the groove did not touch the smeared hump; a dirty place, on the contrary, shows that there is excess wood here that did not allow the log to “sit” - it needs to be removed. So gradually, the groove is refined until it is completely erased. This means that the groove is completely in contact with the hump of another log.
There is another way to check the correctness of the groove selection - with a wooden “woman”. They take a piece of log (with an impressive name - “baba”) up to one meter long and tap it on the connected logs. Then the log with the groove is removed and they look where there are jammed places, indicating excess wood in the groove. “Baba” must be made of soft wood, otherwise it will crush the front surface of the log being tapped.
Carpenter's trait
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By classic scheme When cutting a log house, the bowls are first selected in rough form. Then the log is “squatted” - thrown in a place on top below the already finished one. Then, using a line, the outlines of the laying groove and bowl are marked on the opposite side surfaces of the log. Then the log is removed, and a groove with bowls is removed on the ground. Or it is not removed when it is inconvenient or the frame is cut into a low foot. It is interesting that some constantly practicing carpenters, with a steady hand and a normal eye, are able to cut a dovetail without drawing. They say that there are modifications of the carpenter's mark that supposedly allow you to mark a log in one step. But that's not true or we're talking about about the highest skill of individual carpenters.
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The marking tool can hold both a regular lead pencil and a specialized “dot” round, oval or faceted one.
Carpenter trait.
Leaving a perfectly readable line on concrete, stone, metal surface, dry and wet wood. There is also an interesting invention - a gas refill from Fisher Space Pen, which writes boldly not only on literally everything, but also at an impressive range of temperatures, in snow and water (it makes no difference). A carpenter's line is sometimes equipped with a mirror in order to draw at arm's length or at hard to reach places it was more convenient. This ancient tool was used to mark out a lot of things. They even drew (beaten) the boards to fit them tightly before edging.
Carpenter's trait
ABOUT professional tools we tell you all the time. Why are log houses made for Tesla? How to control vertical deviations of walls with a special plumb line. One changes the shape and quantity of the tree. Others work with appearance log house There is a third measuring group of specific devices. Without each of them, you cannot ensure the quality of your home. For example, the traits of a carpenter.
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A carpenter's line (doodle) or scriber (imported analogue) is a carpenter's tool for preliminary marking. It is used when drawing on the surface of a tree the boundaries of a sample of an inter-crown laying groove and elements of a corner notch. The line looks like a large modified metal compass with a special pencil and a heavy-duty lead. Leaving a clearly visible mark on a log of natural moisture. Many of the carpentry features are equipped with a water or alcohol hydro level. Often two to control position in two dimensions. The line does not require a pencil (the smaller tool in the photo on the left) with smooth markings.
According to the classical scheme, when cutting a log house, the bowls are first selected in rough form.
How to make a carpenter's line with your own hands
Then the log is “squatted” - thrown in a place on top below the already finished one. Then, using a line, the outlines of the laying groove and bowl are marked on the opposite side surfaces of the log. Then the log is removed, and a groove with bowls is removed on the ground. Or it is not removed when it is inconvenient or the frame is cut into a low foot. It is interesting that some constantly practicing carpenters, with a steady hand and a normal eye, are able to cut a dovetail without drawing. They say that there are modifications of the carpenter's mark that supposedly allow you to mark a log in one step. But, this is not so or we are talking about the highest skill of individual carpenters.
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The marking tool can hold either a regular lead pencil or a specialized “dot” round, oval or faceted one. Leaving a perfectly readable line on concrete, stone, metal surfaces, dry and wet wood. There is also an interesting invention - a gas refill from Fisher Space Pen, which writes boldly not only on literally everything, but also at an impressive range of temperatures, in snow and water (it makes no difference). A carpenter's line is sometimes equipped with a mirror to make it more convenient to draw at arm's length or in hard-to-reach places. This ancient tool was used to mark out a lot of things. They even drew (beaten) the boards to fit them tightly before edging.
Scriber is a carpenter's marking tool that replaced the carpenter's line.
This is a tool for drawing crowns in the process of cutting log houses. Drawing logs requires skill, since the quality of the felling depends on the firmness of the hand. For the accuracy of the “landing” of the upper crown, the line must be drawn evenly and without deviations from the horizontal and vertical.
Using SCRIBER, deviation from horizontal and vertical planes can now be monitored visually. This allows, with a careful approach, to make just one drawing
Assembled weight:
450 grams
Equipped with level:
dimensions:
Works on solution:
from 24 to 360 mm Main parts: “legs” are made of aluminum alloy, which are heat-treated (increased strength) and coated with anodization - an anti-corrosion coating. The rest were made of structural steel and coated with an anti-corrosion coating - zinc. The repeat holders rotate on thermoplastic washers, which greatly reduces friction when turning. The design of the holders allows you to work with pencils and Fischer rods. Manufacturing technology using programmable machines allows us to obtain precise parts, which in turn guarantees high accuracy markings.
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Assembled weight: 450 grams Equipped with level: type 2D (cross spirit level, 1 vertical and 1 horizontal) Dimensions: length 270 mm; width 190 mm; thickness 40 mm.
Works on solution: from 24 to 360 mm Main parts: “legs” are made of aluminum alloy, which are heat-treated (increased strength) and anodized - an anti-corrosion coating. The rest were made of structural steel and coated with an anti-corrosion coating - zinc.
The repeat holders rotate on thermoplastic washers, which greatly reduces friction when turning. The design of the holders allows you to work with pencils and Fischer rods. Manufacturing technology using programmable machines allows us to obtain precise parts, which in turn guarantees high marking accuracy.
Home -> -> We build and craft -> Homemade scriber- carpenter's trait.
Scriber- a carpenter's marking tool that replaced the line.
Time does not stand still and makes its own improvements to carpentry tools. When marking with a line, the most difficult thing is to ensure that the marking ends of the line are strictly vertical. Canadian inventor, one of the authors of the technology " Canadian cutting", Robert Chambers proposed a marking tool in which verticality is ensured by bubble levels. He called it ChambersScriber.
The talented Russian carpenter Yuri Milykh developed his own version of the scriber, which he called carpenter's compass. Based on his motives, my homemade product was made.
The main reason self-made- the high cost of this instrument (300 – 500 US dollars).
To make a scriber you need the following tool:
1. Hammer
2. Hacksaw for metal,
3. Vise,
4. Grinder with cutting and grinding discs,
5. Welding transformer,
6. Drill,
7. A set of needle files - files,
8. Taps and dies with a diameter of 6, 8, 10 mm,
9. Plumb (to adjust verticality),
10. Level (to adjust the horizontal position).
The scriber is made entirely from scrap materials. It cost me $2 (the price of nuts and washers) and two days of wasted time.
Well, now, the manufacturing process in pictures.
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Photos of the finished structure. |
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During the marking process, the problem with a regular pencil is that the lead wears off. It has to be constantly sharpened and pushed out. Since the scriber was adjusted for a certain length of the pencil, in order not to make mistakes when extending it, a special template was made (at the same time a screwdriver and a 10mm head). |
