Wet soil on a site is always a problem. Unpleasant fumes, hordes of mosquitoes in summer, getting wet garden plants poison the lives of lovers countryside holiday. The swamp needs to be drained. How can I do that?
First of all, you should understand the reasons for stagnation of water in the soil. Depending on this, develop a strategy to combat this unpleasant phenomenon.
Causes of soil waterlogging
Figuring out why the swamp formed is not so easy even for a specialist. It is useful to explore the neighboring lands and get to know the surrounding area. Here are 2 main reasons excess humidity soil:
- The site is located in a lowland near a natural reservoir, groundwater comes very close to the surface;
- The natural flow of water after rains is disrupted.
The first reason is less likely to be true - people usually do not take building plots in a swamp. Problems with insufficient water drainage are much more common. The root of the problem may be as follows:
- there is a natural spring on the site that feeds the swamp, requiring clearing and drainage of water;
- your garden plot located below its neighbors, all the water flows to you after rain;
- features of the structure of layers and relief: close to the surface there is a thick layer of clay that does not allow rainwater to be absorbed;
How to get rid of a swamp?
The first advice you will receive is to fill the swamp with sand or soil. This is the simplest, cheapest and most Wrong way. This method does not bring positive results; sooner or later the swamp returns to its previous appearance. It is an unusually resilient ecological system.
It is impossible to displace water by backfilling. You won't be able to scoop it out either. The only way to completely drain a swamp is to let the water leave the area. To do this, drains are made through which water will flow. It’s good if it has somewhere to go, but it happens that the site is lower than neighboring ones or there are obstacles in the path of the flowing water (building, road). In this case, it is useful to choose a compromise option.
Here are a few good ideas, allowing to “dry” the swampy soil. Often such decisions are always the wisest.
Make a pond
As trees grow, they absorb and evaporate more and more water, acting like a constantly running pump. If the soil in the area is heavy and clayey, then the roots of the trees, penetrating it in different directions, gradually change its structure.
If the area is large enough, then planting such natural dehumidifiers along its perimeter will be effective, and the effectiveness will increase every year.
Make a catch basin and drainage
If the area is small and there is no space for a pond, then you can make a water intake well. It is a construction made of concrete rings or plastic container(this option is simpler and more practical). It is protected from clogging and silting by sprinkling and geotextiles. They lead to the well drainage pipes to collect water from the site.
The water that collects there can be used for irrigation in dry times or pumped out and discharged through pipes into a natural reservoir.
The water intake well is considered the best option for an area under which there is a layer of clay, and a layer of fertile soil on top of it is small. Rainwater in such a place does not go deep, so in the spring and during rains there is a swamp, in summer heat the soil dries out. Mosquitoes, silt, the smell of rotting mud - these are the delights of such a site. Growing anything is difficult. What doesn’t dry out in the spring will dry out in the summer, and there’s no benefit.
You can build a drainage system, including a water intake well and grooves for collecting water, yourself. The cost of such a structure is small, but the benefits can be invaluable.
If these measures do not help get rid of the swamp, then only a specialist can help solve the problem. A full-fledged drainage system with all the work is not cheap, but only this method will get rid of waterlogged soil.
"Fifteen
years ago I started mastering
inherited land on a peat bog. This turned out to be not an easy matter
(I had to study the relevant literature) and very labor-intensive. I'll tell you how
drain the swamp summer cottage. Maybe the experience I have accumulated can be useful to someone
will come in handy." This is the letter sent to our website by Gennady Veselov from
Leningrad region. Here is his story.
We rarely cultivate peat-boggy soils. Together with
However, they can bring good harvests. Naturally, when due
processed in a manner. The disadvantages of a summer cottage on a peat bog are known. This
saturation of swamp methane gas in the soil and lack of oxygen, as well as
proximity to the surface groundwater. Therefore, to the question, a plot on a peat bog - what to do, the answer is with
the right decision the problem is simple: enriching the soil with oxygen, getting rid of
methane and lowering groundwater levels.
How
to drain the swamp at the dacha, where to start? The first summer I had to dig drainage
ditches 50 cm wide and 70 to 140 cm deep. They must be dug with a slope of approximately
1 cm per one linear meter. Brushwood was laid at the bottom of the ditches. Covered the branches
old roofing felt, which I still had after re-roofing. On
roofing material laid dry grass, which
I mowed it before the seeds appeared, so that the summer cottage would not be overgrown with weeds. This grass
covered it with crushed dry peat, and laid the excavated soil on top, so that
it turned out to be a small hill. After it settled, almost no bedding was required.
The construction of such drainage ditches on a summer cottage made it possible to make the land more
loose, get rid of methane gas and lower the groundwater level.
How to drain a swamp to make garden beds
plot.
Peat is known to be a source of nitrogen necessary for plant development. But
as long as it lies in a compressed layer, there is no benefit from it. However, it was worth
dig up and grind it, just like bacteria started working after taking a breath of oxygen,
turning peat into soil suitable for planting. Of course, here too it was necessary
work hard. After all, in order to receive good harvests, on a summer cottage
draining the swamp is not enough. Necessary
It was necessary to add clay, sawdust from a cow farm and sand to the soil. The first few
years we had to feed our peat bog too mineral fertilizers with additives
microelements.
Peat
retains moisture well and is an excellent mulch. His upper layer(3-5 cm)
needs to be kept dry. This will save your garden from pests and diseases, and your vegetable garden from
tedious weeding. In addition, peat soils freeze and thaw
slowly and do not freeze deeply. Therefore, in our beds, in place of drained
The swamps of the plant never froze even during winters with little snow and frost.
Thus, having drained the swamp at my summer cottage, I was able to
create here in a few years fertile soil, which is suitable for
growing most agricultural crops. Moreover, having ennobled
plot, they planted plum trees, apple trees, cherries, pears, sea buckthorn and chokeberry trees on it
rowan, which began to produce abundant harvests. So the garden plot is
peat bog - this is quite feasible. You just need to put your hands to it.
Waterlogged soil on a site is a problem for its owners. When purchasing a plot, excess moisture can be determined by the presence of reeds, sedges, and rush grass. Subsequently, owners are faced with unpleasant fumes, mosquitoes, poor growth garden plants. Plants disappear due to insufficient oxygen access to the roots, their rotting, and exposure to toxic products (nitrates, acids, aluminum salts) formed in swampy soil.
Wetland and clay soilIt is expensive to build a house on waterlogged land. We have to build a deep pile foundation.
All these troubles can be eliminated by draining the area. There is a solution to the problem, and you can try to get rid of excess moisture yourself. The key to success in this case is understanding the nature of the swampy area.
Different situations - different solutions
Determining the cause of the formation of a swamp is sometimes difficult even for a specialist. In this situation, it is important to familiarize yourself with the surroundings and inspect the lands of your neighbors. Excessive soil moisture usually has two main reasons:
- The placement of the allotment in a low-lying reservoir, which leads to the location of groundwater quite close to the surface. This reason is rarely confirmed, since few people deliberately decide to purchase land in a swamp.
- Disruption of natural water flow as a result of heavy rains. This problem is associated with several factors - the location of the site below neighboring ones (water after rains constantly flows to it), the location of a layer of viscous clay close to the surface, or the presence of a source feeding the swamp.
Each specific case has its own solution to the problem, tested by more than one generation of farmers. An analysis of the situation on the site will allow you to decide which drainage method to use.
High groundwater level
Reeds are growing - water is nearby Drainage will allow surface groundwater to be removed (“overwater”) closed type, performed at a sufficient depth. Such drainage is installed along the perimeter of the site, as well as throughout its entire territory. In case of abundant water, when drainage into the deep layers of the soil does not lead to results, a drainage well and a pump are needed that can constantly pump out water and divert it outside the territory.
Clay soil
Organization of drainage on clay soil Soil with a high clay content does not allow moisture to pass through easily, and the soil remains damp for a long time after rain and melting snow. If the land plot is located at an angle, the inflow water is coming from the surface of the earth located above. Optimal solution in such a situation - the use of backfill and open ditches to accumulate and drain moisture deep into the ground.
The organization of closed-type drainage is not so effective, and the formation of a filtration layer to the surface of the earth is not always justified.
swampy area
The optimal, but very expensive solution is to raise the ground level and create a drainage ditch along the perimeter. Before draining a site, it is important to consider plans for the use of the area and determine the depth of drainage. If the area is seasonally swamped, you can dig a ditch in the lowest part of the site. In addition to it, it is necessary to make open drainage channels, often located throughout the entire territory. Sloping section should be protected from sliding of the earth by plants or geomats.
Drainage ditch along the site Location of the allotment in the lowland
Waterlogging can be dealt with using a pump and a drainage well. If this is appropriate and possible, the problem will be solved by a pond in the lowest part of the plot and closed drainage throughout its entire area. Drainage must be carried out to a state in which the foundations of buildings will not be destroyed, and plants will be able to develop.
Learn more about drying methods
A plot of land can be drained different ways reclamation. Before choosing the right one, you should consider the following factors:
- waterproofness of the soil, its composition;
- direction and level of groundwater;
- buildings in the garden;
- the height to which the groundwater level needs to be lowered.
Delivery of soil to raise the level of the site The delivery of fresh fertile soil will allow the surface level of the plot to be raised. If the ground is plowed, it will mix with viscous and dense swampy soil, and it will be possible to grow crops in the garden. Lands cultivated in this way do not require fertilizers for several years. However, the swamp is a stable ecosystem, so it is possible that it will return to its original form over time.
Adding sand
If you add sand in equal proportions to the soil of the site, the quality of the soil improves and air exchange increases. With additional humus, it is possible to cultivate vegetables, berries, and herbs on the ground. Adding sand to waterlogged soil creates more effective ways reclamation. The method is effective in itself if applied to clay soils ah with a little excess surface waters.
Drainage
Arrangement drainage system– most effective method drain surface water for a long time. To create it use plastic pipes with small diameter holes in the walls. It is first necessary to wrap the pipes with holes in geotextile in 1-3 layers, depending on the size of the soil particles. They are placed in pre-prepared channels to the following depth:
- for clay soils – 65-75cm;
- for loams - by 70-90cm;
- for sandy areas - up to 1 m.
Open and closed ditches
Construction of closed drainage ditches Open drainage ditches will remove excess water from the soil surface. They are made with edges beveled at an angle of 20 degrees. The disadvantage of this method is rapid shedding, contamination of the outflow with leaves, debris, and stagnation of water. Such drainage structures should be cleaned regularly with a shovel. Open drainage ditches are not used in areas with sandy soil because the sand is quickly washed away and drainage becomes ineffective. It is convenient to place an open drainage ditch in an area along the fence, where it does not disturb anyone.
Closed drainage ditches are deeply dug trenches covered with a layer of sand and disguised as garden paths. They have an aesthetic appearance, the soil in them does not collapse, and the water inside does not bloom.
For the system to function properly, the dug trenches are led into a well or dug down to a layer of sand that will absorb moisture. If the channels become clogged, it will be difficult to clean with soil.
Raised beds
When planning to cultivate herbs, vegetables, and strawberries, owners of waterlogged plots build high beds. Excess moisture collects between the beds, and areas of land with crops become drier. At the right approach It is possible to grow crops even in areas with excess water. Photos of vegetable gardens in Holland, surrounded by a network of canals, convince us of this. Such conditions allow you to grow anything you want.
Creation raised beds will not only drain excess water, but also decorate the garden Digging a pond or well
A decorative pond will collect excess moisture and allow it to gradually evaporate. At the same time, the garden area will become noticeably drier, and the pond itself will decorate the landscape. The effectiveness of this method convinces clear example– The Cross Canal, built for the same purposes in the park of Versailles.
Wells are as efficient as ditches. To create them, holes are dug at the lowest points of the site and filled with crushed stone or sand. Their diameter at the bottom is half a meter, at the top – two meters, and their length is about a meter. After rain or snow melts, excess moisture gradually drains into them.
The pond collects rainwater and decorates the area Planting moisture-loving trees
Moisture-loving trees help rid a waterlogged garden of excess water. Feel good here weeping willows, alder and birch. Such trees evaporate excess liquid through the leaves. Willows and birches dry out the wetland, but it will take several years for sufficient drainage. You can also cultivate cranberries, blueberries, and viburnum. When the area becomes drier, you should move on to growing your favorite plants.
Willows will decorate and drain the area Typically, reeds and sedges grow in wetlands. To combat them, the area should be drained. in a suitable way, for example, by lowering excess moisture into the nearest stream. These plants have a powerful root system, and only by removing it can you avoid new growth for a certain time. To do this, you will have to dig deep holes with your own hands, remove every root, and lay roofing material at the bottom of the holes. Bulrush seeds spread well and if the ground remains wet the problem will return.
Extreme measures
If none of the listed land reclamation methods gave the desired result, or you don’t want to wait, you can invite specialists. Using powerful pumps, they will quickly pump out unnecessary moisture, and the effect will be visible within 24 hours. However, this is an expensive service, and the waterlogging problem may return over time.
When you fail to win in the struggle for dry soil, you can come to terms with and overcome the excessive moisture of the soil. To do this, you can arrange a pond, surrounding it with plants that require moisture.
Blueberries, viburnum, cranberries, marsh iris, mint, buttercups, thuja, and heather grow well in humid conditions. A good addition would be maiden grapes, lush ferns, callas, and some varieties of orchid plants.
Methods to combat excess moisture there are a lot in the garden. However, when none of them helped, you will have to come to terms and create your own corner of nature. The owner of a swampy plot can successfully not only grow horticultural crops and flowers, but also to build a house. There are many proven solutions for this.
In our large country, swamps and wetlands occupy significant areas. On swampy soils, ordinary plants, which are used to feed them, cannot grow and develop. underground parts- roots and rhizomes - oxygen is needed all the time. Standing, motionless water quickly becomes deprived of oxygen, and most plants die. Only those that have managed to adapt to life in the swamp survive - swamp plants.
Meanwhile, in my own way chemical composition swamp soils are extremely fertile. You can get them high yields a wide variety of agricultural crops. But to do this, you must first drain the swamp. Then barren lands harmful to human health will turn into rich fields and pastures. Fat cornfields will begin to sprout where recently only stunted marsh grasses and low-growing shrubs grew.
In our country, a lot of work is being done to drain and develop swamps. Agriculture Socialist countries have already received millions of hectares of new fertile land.
Swamp drainage is now almost entirely mechanized. Soviet scientists and engineers have created many wonderful machines that do all the hard, tedious and monotonous work for people.
How are swamps drained?
First of all, you need to remove excess moisture from the soil, that is, let it drain. And the water should, of course, flow into the nearest river. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to deepen and widen the bed of such a river, and in some places straighten it. Here you have to remove the soil mainly from under the water.
Nowadays, soil is removed from the river by floating and land excavators, as well as dredging units.
Floating excavators are used in cases where the width of the river allows dumping of excavated soil onto the shore. This soil thrown out by an excavator is leveled with bulldozers.
Depending on their performance, floating dredgers are used on both large and small rivers. The soil they extract from the bottom of the river, mixed with water - pulp - is pumped through pipes to the shore and spread over the surface of the soil. There is no need for a bulldozer here.
But standing swamp water will not flow into the river on its own even after its channel has been deepened and widened. For drainage, more canals have to be laid across the entire area of the swamp. First they dig the main, i.e. main, canals, then the collector canals. The latter collect water flowing from the swamp through a shallow closed or open drainage network and divert it into the main canal.
An open network of small drainage ditches serves to receive and drain surface water into collector channels, as well as to lower the groundwater level in the drained area.
Along with an open network of ditches, a closed network - drainages - is used when draining swamps. They are made of planks, pottery, fascine or mole. Board drainage is made from boards that are knocked together in the form of pipes rectangular section. Pottery consists of pottery, i.e. fired, clay pipes. Fascinous drainage is made from brushwood of various tree species, cleared of leaves and small branches. And finally, the mole channel is a system of underground channels resembling mole tunnels.
Main and collector channels with a depth of 1.5 to 2.5 m are laid by excavators specially adapted for working on swampy soil.
Plow ditchers work to lay an open shallow drainage network of ditches. This is a highly productive machine: in an hour it can dig ditches up to 2 km long and up to 80-100 cm deep.
A trench for laying the drainage is dug using a multi-bucket excavator or a plow ditch digger, then the drainage is lowered into it and covered with earth on top.
To lay mole drainage, mole plows and mole drainage machines have been created. They are driven by a tractor specially equipped for working on swampy soil.
Immediately after laying the canals, their slopes are strengthened with turf or sown with grass to avoid landslides.
But time passes, and open channels and ditches are gradually filled with sand or silt, overgrown with marsh grasses, become shallow, collapse and, as a result, begin to drain water poorly, or even become clogged. They have to be cleaned and repaired periodically.
So, the swamp has been drained. All of it was covered with a network of large and small canals. Standing water that has accumulated in the soil for years flows freely through these channels into the nearest river. But this is only the first part of the work of land reclamation workers - this is the name given to people involved in radical improvement. natural conditions lands with unfavorable water regime. Now the drained swamp needs to be reclaimed and prepared for sowing crops. To repair and clean ditches and canals, special cleaning machines are used: some for cleaning ditches of a small drainage network, others for cleaning collector and main canals.
The first step is to clear the soil of small bushes, stumps, hummocks and woody debris. You can't do much here with an ax and a shovel - this is a very labor-intensive task.
A brush cutter mounted on a tractor easily cuts bushes and small trees, removes bumps.
However, it is beneficial to use brush cutters in cases where the swamp is overgrown not only with bushes, but also with small forests. If the bush does not have small forests, it is simply plowed deep into the ground. This work is performed by a unit for plowing bushes. Such a hydraulically controlled unit, driven by a tractor, consists of two parts: a hollow drum and a ski with a knife are hung in front of the tractor, and a plow body is hung behind it. The drum, rotating, tilts the bush forward and presses it to the soil surface; a knife cuts a layer with rhizomes in vertical plane, and the plow body wraps the layer and plows the bushes to a depth of 20 to 50 cm.
Uprooting stumps and removing woody debris is one of the most difficult jobs in the process of developing drained swamps. Stumps are uprooted by the direct pull of a tractor with hooks on chains or cables, or with a rooter, or with a powerful bulldozer that turns out huge stumps, or with a uprooter-collector.
After clearing the drained area of bushes, stumps, hummocks and woody debris, it begins to be prepared for agricultural use. It includes three processes: plowing, cutting and rolling.
Plowing of peat soils of a drained swamp should be deep, with complete coverage of the surface vegetation cover. For this purpose, special swamp plows with a wide grip are used, which plow the ground to a depth of 50 cm, while wrapping the layer and embedding all vegetation deep into the soil.
The layer of earth wrapped by the plow must then be loosened to the greatest possible depth so that oxygen can freely penetrate into the soil. Loosen the layer disc harrows or special milling machines.
Then the surface of the drained swamp is rolled - leveled with special swamp loading rollers.
Yes, you identified all the problems and answered my questions. Just in case, here is a link, a very old one - just a mirror of your thoughts. http://sadovod-sadovodu.ru/osushenie_uchastka.html. I just wanted to find out about the soil characteristics. What is the depth of the water well, did you get to the sand layers when digging the well? If there is aquiferous sand, prefabricated wells can also be constructed. The very first thing is about boundary grooves (simple drainage open type).. It is useless to simply clear them - deepen them by two bayonets, add crushed stone or ASG + drainage pipes or the method according to the link. Cover the top with geotextile to prevent washout drainage holes. Fill with NOT SOIL. Eat personal experience drainage of a sloped area. They are dug into three layers of bayonets. drainage pipes in the furrow area between raised ridges. There are 4 branches along the section. Across the exit of these pipes there is a drainage ditch, fenced with slate from washing out and maintaining a slope from the neighbors. Has been working for 10 years. Previously, people wore rubber boots until July. The neighbors continue to swim (they are too lazy) and in that area they continue to wear slippers even after rainfalls and spring thaw. The bias to start doing from the very high point. How much do you plan to raise the soil on the site? Or just the perimeter? P.S.I can only judge what I have in the bowels of the earth from the memory of last year’s burying of well rings. I didn’t dig myself, I hired 4 guys. This is not the first day they have been doing this. 5 rings were buried. The very first one almost completely disappeared below into something gray-black, very liquid. And first there was black fruit, about a meter, maybe a little less. Then came loam, heterogeneous, interspersed different color.. black, red, gray... After that there was loam, but not dry. Raw and sticky. The guys said it wasn't clay. Then some rabble started walking again gray, becoming damper and dirtier towards the bottom. At first, I transported around the site in a wheelbarrow what they took out in buckets from the well, and after that it was useless to transport, and what they got was half water and half mud, and the work began to boil, so I was no longer in the way for them with the wheelbarrow. After my observations of the process, I was left with a heavy feeling. The fact that I saw the composition of what was underground did not inspire me at all. Everything is very liquid, dirty and indistinct. But I still have a house here.
After the loam, there was either very fine sand, or silt, or all together. And at the very bottom it’s probably just liquid sludge. In my unprofessional opinion, this is how I would rate it. In any case, what was taken out last and dumped right next to the well looked like jellied meat for a long time. The fraction is very small.Boundary drainage grooves... I strongly doubt that it is possible and necessary to dig and bury anything in them. Because: their edges are constantly crumbling; they are constantly washed away; The water doesn't leave them anywhere. Even if I have a fortified perimeter and stop crumbling on my part, it’s not realistic to force my neighbors to do this. It washes them both as a result of shedding and when the water is still flowing poorly. In general, the ditches are swimming before our eyes. Now that the level has dropped a little, the remaining water is simply standing in the ditches. She has nowhere to go. The entire drainage/reclamation system in ST is mercilessly neglected. And in some places it is littered with garbage. I don’t have the opportunity to deal with chaos and desolation on such a scale. This requires free time and unlimited funds, etc.. I think it’s easier, better and more logical to put your efforts into finding out the capabilities of your site in terms of “recycling” water.
Sorry for the possibly amateurish questions, but if I understand correctly, the water does not actively go into the ground due to the waterproof layer. In my case it looks like loam. And under the water-resistant layer there is a water-absorbing layer, did I understand correctly? So I need to find out how deep the loam is and what is underneath it? That is, when installing “autonomous” drainage, without draining water outside the site, I will need to drill wells below the loam so that the water can fall to the water-absorbing layer, which is located below? This layer will “receive” the water flowing down the well... right?)
I plan to first sort out the perimeter of the site, secure it from erosion and spreading. I want to bury truck tires in the perimeter, laying them flat along the perimeter in a chain in several layers vertically. I will fill the tires with sand and earth. The sand is where the fence posts will later stand in the buried tires, and the earth is where there will be no posts. Last fall I put one pole like this on the corner as an experiment. I wanted to see how he would survive the winter. This is what it looks like:
.
I want to raise the area to about the height of the tires, maybe a little more. Because I want to lay tires as the base and pour earth on top. There are no other options yet. Yes, I don’t see them, to be honest. The fact is that this site is more than 40 years old. and during this time a lot of things were brought here by car. Earth, peat, manure, sand... But you can’t tell by looking at the site. Everything has gone somewhere... Just like Bermuda Triangle) This is why the measures are so radical and unconventional. I don’t know yet what will happen, but I really want to try)You can try, during the “dry” summer-autumn period, to still drill control holes from several places (in the lowest places, necessarily) - the depth - if realistic - to the sand layer. The goal is to find out the thickness of the waterproof layer. But I'm afraid it's deep. Manually - up to 3.0 m with attachments - really. Go deeper - I don’t know, then the idea can be put aside. And on the border with the upper section (if there is one) a ditch - up to 1.0 meters deep - drainage preparation of the bottom - with a slope in one direction or in two halves - you know better. And bring her together with the boundary guards. They did the same thing - it worked. The effect is not immediate - for the second season. Why is the GWL so high? Don't you have a body of water nearby? Has it always been this wet? In the area about which I wrote above, “swamping” after a significant increase in groundwater level is caused by an increase in the level of the constructed asphalt road. Which everyone was infinitely happy about. Only a year later, everyone - both to the left and to the right of her - swam.Last year I drilled with a hand drill up to 2 meters. Loam. The water rushes in before reaching a meter deep. The drill is very difficult to get out. He is literally sucked in. Alternatively, you can try drilling with drills different diameters. First drill with the larger one, then with the smaller one.
I want to clarify a little... You can’t count on the cooperation of your neighbors. Therefore, you will have to limit yourself only to the boundaries of your site. Neither the terrain nor the initiative of the neighbors is conducive to anything else. Alas. Verified.
The water stands high because there is nowhere for it to flow further. This is the lowland, so to speak.
It was almost always like this. In any case, as long as I remember myself here.
At the ends of our street in ST (my house and the plot in the middle of it), there are two ponds. One without entrances and exits, and the second is included in the drainage system. But, as I wrote above, the entire system is completely neglected. And no one is going to revive her. The grooves run along the boundaries of other people's areas. And as you understand, you can’t get there on your own.
As I understand it, based on the principle of matching vessels, the water level is now equalized everywhere. Therefore, movement in the grooves stopped. The pond, which is included in the drainage system, also has an outlet. But it seems to have been neglected to such an extent that water no longer flows out of it. And there’s really nowhere for it to flow. Then everything started again. In short, the problem of drainage on the scale of St. Fighting with her is a lost cause. And if fighting the neglect of the ditches themselves is only half the battle, then fighting with people is a completely different matter. And as practice has shown, it is useless. Nobody cares.If it's not a secret, which road are we talking about?
