Every child dreams of riding a go-kart, scooter, moped, or motorcycle, but when it comes to a real buggy, there is practically no limit to his delight. Making this type of transport is not difficult, you only need a little desire. You just need to successfully purchase a 125 cm3 scooter engine.
DIY materials and tools
engine 125 cm3;
old metal water pipes;
electric welding;
wheels 10 inches;
steering rods from VAZ 2101;
scooter shock absorbers;
brake pads.
Buggy manufacturing process
Step 1. Making the frame and steering
Using regular water pipes different sections and profiles, a frame is made for the future buggy. Metal parts must be connected using conventional electric welding.
It is optimal to take regular 10-inch wheels from a scooter. The suspension is independent pendulum, with shock absorbers in both directions. In a regular go-kart, control is done through the steering rack; in a homemade buggy there will be no steering rack. You just need to find steering rods from the Zhiguli “Kopeyka”. Driving a buggy will be more difficult than a regular go-kart.
Step 2. Differential
To have reverse gear and differential in the buggy, you need to use a gear axle from the Ant scooter; it has everything we need. To reduce engine vibration, it must be firmly bolted to the frame. The drive should be located in accordance with the center of the pendulum mounting, thus making it possible to adjust the chain tension.
Step 3: Installing the Brakes
Brakes are installed only on the rear wheels. Brake drums are located on each axle shaft, they stop the buggy very well. It is necessary to get the cables from the Zhiguli hand brakes. When you press the pedal, they activate the brake pads on each drum.
Step 4. Last stages assemblies
The fuel tank is also taken from any scooter. The seat from Zaporozhets is ideal for a mini-buggy; it can easily be adjusted to suit any height. We put everything in its place and enjoy using this homemade product.
Conclusion
Buggy in
Every child dreams of riding a go-kart, scooter, moped, or motorcycle, but when it comes to a real buggy, there is practically no limit to his delight. Making this type of transport is not difficult, you only need a little desire. You just need to successfully purchase a 125 cm3 scooter engine.
DIY materials and tools
engine 125 cm3;
old metal water pipes;
electric welding;
wheels 10 inches;
steering rods from VAZ 2101;
scooter shock absorbers;
brake pads.
Buggy manufacturing process
Step 1. Making the frame and steering
Using ordinary water pipes of different sections and profiles, a frame is made for the future buggy. Metal parts must be connected using conventional electric welding.
It is optimal to take regular 10-inch wheels from a scooter. The suspension is independent pendulum, with shock absorbers in both directions. In a regular go-kart, control is done through the steering rack; in a homemade buggy there will be no steering rack. You just need to find steering rods from the Zhiguli “Kopeyka”. Driving a buggy will be more difficult than a regular go-kart.
Step 2. Differential
To have reverse gear and differential in the buggy, you need to use a gear axle from the Ant scooter; it has everything we need. To reduce engine vibration, it must be firmly bolted to the frame. The drive should be located in accordance with the center of the pendulum mounting, thus making it possible to adjust the chain tension.
Step 3: Installing the Brakes
Brakes are installed only on the rear wheels. There are brake drums on each axle shaft and they stop the buggy very well. It is necessary to get the cables from the Zhiguli hand brakes. When you press the pedal, they activate the brake pads on each drum.
Step 4: Final assembly steps
The fuel tank is also taken from any scooter. The seat from Zaporozhets is ideal for a mini-buggy; it can easily be adjusted to suit any height. We put everything in its place and enjoy using this homemade product.
Since today is a day off, I’ll try to write an easy article; you know, I’ve had a topic for this for a long time. For example, several of my readers, after a post about “,” asked me the following question - what is a BUGGY? Others asked the question - is it possible to assemble them with your own hands? Today I decided to collect everything in one article and dot all the i’s. Here we go …
BUGGY - These are lightweight cars, often made by hand, used mainly for driving on rough terrain or off-road. Often used in autocross. They are distinguished by high cross-country ability and a durable chassis; they often have a motorcycle engine.
As you understand, these are also “spontaneous” (not assembly line) variations of cars that were made mainly for cross-country motorsports. Now there are specialized companies that produce them. However, there are also folk craftsmen who produce with their own hands.
History of appearance
The first such cars appeared in the USA around 1950. If you try to translate the word “BUGGY”, the literal translation will mean “stroller”, “convertible”, “small trolley”. However, this is not where the cars got their name!
The thing is that in 1950, the USA simply filled the “trophy” VOLKSWAGEN “BUG” (or as we now all know it, “BEETLE”). Of course, work cars were used for their intended purpose, they were simply driven. However, there were also a lot of faulty cars, for example with a damaged body, but intact “internals”. It was precisely these cars that were dismantled, and instead of a mangled body, they installed a self-made frame, into which, as you understand, they mounted the engine, chassis, seats, etc. The cars turned out to be very light, and “transparent”, it was because of this lightness that they were nicknamed “BUGGY”, this is a diminutive of the word “BUG” - meaning “BUG”.
A little later, after a couple of decades, BUGGIES evolve, they begin to install turbocharged engines that develop power up to 200 hp, special bodies are made, this makes it possible to achieve very high speeds, which involuntarily attracted many spectators, often entire auto shows unfolded. Popularity grew simply quadratically around the world.
This is how another generation of lightweight cars was born, in which autocross racers now compete; in general, this is a whole industry.
Structure
As before, BUGGIES now also have a lightweight frame body, essentially durable pipes that are welded in a certain sequence. However, in fairness, it is worth noting that now metal is being replaced by even lighter structures - made of carbon. The frame must be as strong as possible to withstand all other loads. The rest of the components are hung on the body as the main part. Namely, the engine, transmission, suspension, and of course the interior.
Now, by the way, there are options for closed cars; sides are made of carbon fiber that cover either the driver or the necessary parts (for example, the engine), so you can drive on dirty roads, and not just on dry ones.
The layout of the BUGGY is also specific and remains so almost to this day. It was the Volkswagen Beetle that, with its structure, determined the design for many years to come.
As we know, the engine is located at the rear, and there is also no cooling radiator, which turned out to be very popular for such motocross cars.
But the most important component is the suspension; it is in the BUGGY that it is considered the most passable and the most durable. Moreover, the ground clearance can reach as much as 500 mm, which is simply a lot!
As you understand, such vehicles can be made with your own hands; in principle, there is nothing difficult for a knowledgeable person.
Nowadays such cars are even assembled with motorcycle engines. Of course, you are unlikely to do it yourself without special training; specialists are required, but if you involve them, this is roughly what can happen, watch the video.
The BUGGIES are leaving...?
However, now, the era of these light SUVs is slowly fading. And the appearance of ATVs is to blame for this. They are the focus of many autocross spectators right now.
However, BUGGIES are not dead, they are now being modified, so other engines (already with water cooling) began to be used. Many suspension parts have been migrated from SUVs, and improvised cabins, bumpers and other body elements made of fiberglass are also appearing.
Competitions are also held, and now they can be divided into several types:
Beach
Rally raids
Crawlers
There is no longer the same structure; BUGGIES can be either front-wheel drive or rear-wheel drive. Nowadays there are competitions for “climbing” rocks, for example, a route is chosen in which there are a lot of large stones, the car must drive along it without falling off, and also without getting stuck. Very spectacular! A small example of competition.
It should be noted that due to their lightness of structure and high maneuverability, they have gained popularity in many armies of the world. Even in Russia there are such developments, the main task of transporting troops over long distances over rough terrain (especially deserts).
Also used to patrol the captured perimeter, sometimes a light machine gun is installed.
This is such an interesting car, I think you liked the article, read our AUTOBLOG.
The word buggy hides a wide variety of car models, which are very different from each other. When designing, it is important to adhere to certain proportions so that the parts match each other: in weight, size, maximum load withstand, etc. Let's consider different designs as power increases.
How to make a buggy with your own hands:
- From a motorcycle
- From OKI
- From a Cossack
From a motorcycle
A light small buggy can be assembled based on an IZH or Ural motorcycle engine. It will weigh 300 kilograms and reach a speed of up to 80 km/h. In this design, motorcycle parts and small cars are used as much as possible.
From OKI
An excellent budget donor for a buggy is OKA. The hubs are light in weight. The liquid-cooled engine is protected from overheating and is not as noisy as a motorcycle engine. The steering rack has a sufficient safety margin for its class. A buggy based on the OKI has greater cross-country ability than a production car.
From a Cossack
Zaporozhets, having a rear-engine layout, is essentially already ready-made option buggy. When creating frame drawings, it is advisable to provide for mounting the engine backwards for better cooling and weight distribution along the axes. In this case, it is necessary to turn over the main pair (differential), changing the right and left side in some places. And to make a special gear shift drive, since the gearbox rod rotates from the driver to the rear bumper, and this complicates the rocker system.
Video of the process of building a buggy from Zaporozhets
The shock absorbers, as well as the hubs for the buggy, can be left “original”. But you will have to make the suspension arms yourself, more on that below.
For simplicity, it is better to take a carburetor model so that there are no unnecessary problems with the electronics. Although this is a matter of personal preference, the design does not change. The engine is usually installed behind the driver. To drive the rear wheels, front axle shafts and hubs of VAZ 2108, 09, etc. are used. To increase the rigidity of the rear suspension, you can use front struts with springs from the 41st Moskvich, because each car holds more than 300 kg.
For the all-wheel drive version, all four hubs are front, from a VAZ 2108. The axle shafts are connected to a cut-off axle from a “classic”, for example, a VAZ 2106. On the rear axle, the axles are fixed without the ability to turn. And the front ones are like on a car. To ensure uniform transmission of torque to the axles, it is better to lock the differential of the power unit.
With this arrangement, it is worth considering that maximum speed will decrease by the amount of the gear ratio of the axles used, since now the engine axle shafts transmit rotation to the wheels not directly, but through another differential. This makes it possible to use large diameter wheels without overloading the motor.
Homemade cars mean homemade frame. For the supporting frame of the buggy, you can use ordinary water pipes, but it is better if they are seamless, round or square section 30 - 50 mm in diameter. The upper part of the frame is welded from thin pipes. It is important to consider that in the event of a rollover, the frame must withstand the weight of the vehicle and the force of the impact. This applies to buggies of any class.
To design you must have:
- Pipe bender
- Bulgarian
- Welding machine
- Drill
It is advisable to keep scraps of boards and bars on hand, because there is always a need to lift some elements of the frame and fix them in this position.
Begin making the frame on a level area. The pipes, bent according to the drawings, are first welded, checked, and only after that they are finally welded. It is important to be careful that the frame does not move, as metal tension occurs during welding. For the same reason, it is advisable not to join, but to use solid pipes.
Front suspension
The suspension on long wishbones in the shape of the letter A has proven itself well; it provides large wheel travel. Another plus is that it allows you to change the angle of the shock absorber with the spring, thereby adjusting the stiffness of the suspension.
The pendulum arm is subjected to heavy loads during operation, so it is important to pay attention Special attention materials and quality of welds when assembling this part.
To reduce wear on silent blocks and extend their service life, the levers need to be designed as wide as possible. That is, the bases of the letter A, into which the silent blocks are pressed, should be as far apart as possible, but so that the width of the lever does not interfere with the rotation of the wheel.
A nuance that may subsequently upset you is the limited travel of the lower ball joint pin in its socket. In other words, the pin may be limiting the suspension's upward or downward travel in a place other than expected. This needs to be checked at the design stage.
Rear suspension
If you decide to use a bridge, then the design task is simplified. But for a buggy, independent suspension is better. Levers can be longitudinal or transverse.
wishbone
You can take the front suspension as an example, which is used on many Japanese passenger cars. This is a triangular lever, one side of which is located across the car and is attached through one silent block, and the second arm goes forward to the center and serves as a jib, taking on the load when the car jerks.
Trailing arm
To successfully use the trailing arms of the suspension, lateral thrust is required, otherwise the buggy will have poor road holding. The silent blocks of the trailing arms last longer than those on the “classic” transverse rods.
If you decide to build a buggy at home, your time will not be wasted. Even if nothing happens, this is a great opportunity to get acquainted with the operation of the main components of the car. And if it works out, you will have a unique car.
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What material is suitable for use in a homemade buggy or ATV? What if you want to participate in competitions?
Thanks for the material Nitro
- Is it possible to use square pipes?
- what cross-section of pipes should be?
- Is it possible to use seam pipes from the regular building materials market?
- how to bend the frame pipes?
- Is it possible to make a frame without using a pipe bender - just weld the frame from pipe sections?
the answers are as follows:
The frame must be constructed from seamless cold-formed seamless pipes. The material must have certain strength characteristics.
In the “bible” of the buggy builder (Nazarov M.M. “Special cross-country cars - buggies”, Moscow, DOSAAF 1980) it is written - “The main safety bars are made of cold-drawn steel seamless pipes. Their minimum dimensions depend on the class and weight of the vehicle. For classes 0 and 1 with engine displacement up to 350 and 500 cm3 - 35x2 mm; for grades 2-15: with a weight of up to 700 kg - 42x2.5 mm; from 700 to 1,200 kg - 48x2.5 mm; over 1,200 - 57x3 mm.”
Taking into account the fact that the pipes are made of of this material are expensive and have limited weldability, then you can take other pipes. The most suitable ones are seamless, seamless, cold-deformed pipes made of steel 20. You can buy such pipes at large metal depots; in Moscow you can buy pipes at Metal-Service. They have almost everything there and sell it at retail.
For buggies such as Hurricane, ST2, classes such as minibuggy, go kart, the use of profile electric-welded pipes of square or rectangular cross-section is allowed. They are convenient to process in a garage, but you need to remember that a square pipe works differently in torsion, compression and bending, unlike a pipe round section(compromise material is not such a complicated thing). But, as a rule, you want to ride and not achieve any records, so such tubes are actively used for buggies - especially abroad. Oddly enough, but the buggy is DIY class - (do it yorself - do it yourself).
Regarding seam pipes, I know some people use them. In large cities it is possible to buy what you need, but outside these cities it is quite problematic - you need to buy a large batch. If there is nothing other than seam pipes, you can choose a pipe with a thicker wall. By the way, there were cases when, at off-road races, individual athletes built frames from ordinary water pipe with a thick wall - to meet minimum weight requirements. The main arches for the buggy must be solid - after all, they affect the safety of the pilot (and passengers). the remaining sections of the frame can be welded from pieces of pipes. If welded correctly, the strength will be sufficient.
On any construction market There are many Chinese pipe benders now. they are all designed for water pipes (their sizes depend on the nominal diameter). the second feature of such pipe benders is that the ovality of the pipe in the center of the bend will be greater than that required by sports regulations - if the regulations do not restrain it, you can take it and bend it.
January 14, 2018 Article
DIY buggy from NIVA
I really wanted to do it DIY buggy from the fields on all-wheel drive, moreover, according to the plan, it should be lighter than the standard and have a fully independent suspension. There are several buggies where both front suspensions from Niva are used as suspension. I consider this a half-measure, since the entire front suspension assembly weighs as much as 130 kg. My fist after weighing is 2.4 kg, Niva’s is 6! The only thing that needs to be done is to preserve the layout of the units from the donor - the most standard spare parts.
Everything else is my fantasy at someone else’s expense. The main purpose of the car is fishing and trips to the forest. UAZ tires, Cordiant Off Road on overcooked Niva wheels. 1.7 engine, 4-speed gearbox, cardan shafts, RPM - everything is standard.
After I agreed with the client on the general concept of the machine, I had to make several sketches on paper and transfer everything to the computer. I work in AutoCAD and the ultra-modern paper-pencil system:
Some hardware:
Since there was no welding table, we had to make a base from what was at hand - a rolling table and two channels, which were brought into the plane and allowed us to make an even frame. The difference in the suspension mounting points (when measuring diagonals) is 2-3 mm, although in reality you didn’t have to bother with that.
Welded base:
So, the base is ready. Now we need to cook the main arcs and pipes for the suspension:
I welded this car in the workshop of some restorers I know, so I had to drag the frame several times and re-align everything to the level. With constant measurements of all dimensions, the roof moved to the right by 5 mm, but these are minor things:
I decided to lengthen the suspension arms as much as possible to increase wheel travel. To do this, it was necessary to reduce the distance between the pipes on which the levers are attached and increase the track to 1550 mm. The CV shafts had to be made to order. To prevent the suspension mounting points from going away, I made the brackets for attaching the arms so that they at the same time act as conductors for fixing the frame pipes:
The tunnel was made with installed units, and we had to think about how to properly place the tubes so that they would not interfere with unscrewing the nuts. All units can be removed quite simply.
The total weight of the frame is 156 kg, it was made from that pipe, of which there was a lot. What does not apply to power frame it was possible to weld from a pipe of a smaller cross-section, so after welding I sat and figured out how much weight the frame could lose - it gained 51 kg:
The gas tank is classic. This will allow you to make a dashboard entirely from VAZ instruments:
Sheet body kit, extremely simple:
Mounting the RPM in a cross-country manner - as our buggies do on all-wheel drive buggies. Since nivovods have an incorrect understanding of physics and are locked into a standard body, they break the body quite often. If you make a metal housing as described, then the gearbox housing can easily withstand 400 forces!
When using spare parts cut on a CNC plasma cutter, there is no need for milling machine. This kind of fist can be made very inexpensively and with any configuration. This is the rear fist, the base is a piece of DN100 water pipe and plates from a plasma cutter:
Using two shock absorbers at different distances from the swing point of the lever itself, we get different forces on the piston, different movements and slightly different characteristics shock absorbers. It turns out that the characteristic of one shock absorber is slightly shifted relative to the other:
Suspension:
Jig for welding the front knuckle:
The fist itself:
Rear suspension assembly:
Ready chassis
Wheel alignment can also be done on the knee. All you need is a piece of rope and an elastic band from a hand truck - she pulls the rope tight:
Dashboard:
As R. Kolesnikov (a former pilot from the Gazprom team) always says, if an all-wheel drive buggy rolls easily by hand, then the wheel alignment angles are correct. We managed to get within the required limits, and even taking into account the fact that the wheel alignment is made on the knee, the chassis rolls quite easily. All that remains is to make the body kit, connect the electrics and start it.
Master: Andrey “Nitro” Anikin
Especially for jeepstroy!
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My friend suggested making a buggy, a real one in the right way smile.gif After thinking a little, I agreed to his provocation. My friend purchased 99.9% of the parts for the buggy, and I helped with welding, ideas, tools, space and, most importantly, company (I can’t do all this alone)
So here is the uprooted motor with gearbox. The heart so to speak...
Start. So, as usual, the soul demanded rational decisions, therefore, the buggy from the Soviet magazine “Modelist Constructor” was taken as a basis, it was called AB-82, and had most of the spare parts from the world’s kindest motorized vehicle, ZAZ 968, i.e. Zaporozhets.
For some time we found tools, did a mega-cleanout in the garage and looked for a donor. Tools (the most necessary) were found. You can work in the garage (cleaned up, made the lights, etc.) Purchased a ZAZ 968, red rear-engine coupe.
So we chased the ghost around the city, it drives around, it’s alive. They cut it up in the garage (there is no photo of the cut-up, apparently we were very carried away by the process)
We arrived at the garage, cleaned up, made the lights, it seemed like decent, more or less working conditions... We bought ordinary iron profiles at a metal depot, ( profile pipe) And they began to sculpt welding machine means... Art
The art grew, first the bottom was welded, then the drawings were 90% followed. The frame was made a little larger sizes than in the drawings.
Somewhere along the way, a rear suspension appeared. These are original Zaporozhye levers with hubs, and on original “ears”, carefully removed from the donor body in advance. The opportunity arose to move into my garage, which we did. We worked hard to create light, order and beauty; nothing comes for free.
As it was
How did it happen?
Pay attention to the high-tech technology of painting walls (we thought about making them lighter, like beauty and light is reflected) The technology is like this, one paints chaotically in one place, the second in another, the paint suddenly runs out (sellers are such sellers... they promised that for the whole garage 10 layers is enough for a bucket... but really...) and that’s the end of the event))
The front control arms and suspension were made.
The lever pipes are rods from the rear suspension of a classic VAZ. With silent blocks.
The ears on the frame for silents are homemade from 2mm metal.
The ball mounts on the bottom are a piece of the VAZ front arm.
Ball vase of course.
On top there is a relay tip of a vase instead of a ball one.
The bushing for adjusting the camber is welded into the upper arm (the bushing was made by a turner)
The turner also made a spacer for the upper ball joint (they have different cones)
Initially, IZHP 4 shock absorbers were installed, but this is too weak an option.
Later they changed it.
So far there are some tires to roll around.
The suspension, it must be said, was not welded from scratch. The kinematics of the levers are measured in such a way that the contact patch of the tire with the road is always maximum. Checking the suspension travel. This is already very interesting point when the structure can already be rolled somehow! Joy like 7 year old children.
Fiery heart, engine i.e. Let's try it on. The engine and gearbox mounts remain factory, with minor modifications.
A general photo with a suspension and a homemade bucket made of 0.8 metal according to drawings from our wonderful Internet (what would we do without it?!)
Again, erotic fantasies on themes with a roof... Design and engineering (from the word engineer or fig?))
Time has passed. We chose how beautiful it would be.
Space gravitsap. The shot in between is meaningless and cool.
By the way, here's a closer look at the motor mounts. Just in case)
We started making pedals, fastening tanks and cylinders. Alas high-quality photos there is no process left, either written down or in between, like here. But the main thing is there is gas)) The steering rack is also fixed offhand. This moment is adjusted for a long time so that the balls in the steering rack are in a certain place relative to the suspension mounting lines. In short, so that you steer the car, and not it steers you over the bumps. Steering rack OKA (1111) VAZ 2107 steering joints, very comfortable and for safety + VAZ classic steering ends.
The first descents from the hill, the steering wheel is on a stick with duct tape, there are no seats, there are no brakes, there is nothing... Don’t do this, it’s dangerous for everything)))) An ocean of joy, of course. The front wheels are normal, VAZ, the rear wheels are ZAZ (the VAZ is a temporary dummy for a photo, in reality only the ZAZ wheels are on the ZAZ hub)
Bottom. Because it's dangerous to ride without it. Sheet of metal, 0.8 in my opinion. Initially it was attached with self-tapping screws with a drill, but as practice has shown, they are not suitable for these purposes, they fall out from vibration, and are often cut off by the ground when jumping and so on. And then there’s the mystery of who will assemble them with wheels... Later, the bottom was welded with spots. By the way, from the start the project was cooked with electrodes. And with the move to a new home, the machine was created only with semi-automatic CO2 and 0.8mm wire. More convenient, faster, lighter, this type of welding has a lot of advantages.
After the first tests, hopes for compact, lightweight shock absorbers dissolved. We put two of these on each side, it got better, we rode them for a while, but not the same. By the way, out of the corner of your eye you can see that there is a throttle cable, clutch and brake reservoirs, brake pipes and a high-quality steering rack. These kinds of moments require a lot of thought and creativity, so we forgot about the photo. There is linoleum on the floor of the buggy)) It seems like it was temporarily cultivated.
Before you build anything, you need to make drawings. Well, at least a sketch of what should be built. No matter what level of training everyone has, there is not much to do - you need to determine the operating conditions, select the units and layout of the buggy. Only after this should you start drawing the main arcs of the frame.
Terms of Use.
We formulate operating conditions: public roads (dirt roads also include them) in the central part of Russia (any other region), meadows, forests, ravines - operating conditions are determined based on environmental conditions, the geometry of the chassis depends on this - unlike sports buggies, drive over rough terrain rather than on a prepared road.
Geometric parameters of the buggy.
1. Wheelbase
2. Front wheel track
3. Rear wheel track
4. Overall width
5. Overall height
6. Overall length
7. Approach angle
8. Departure angle
9, 10. Radius of obstacles to be overcome
11. Width according to mirrors
Ground clearance can be set to 200…250 mm. This will allow you to move on light off-road conditions, or at a fairly high speed over rough terrain. The wheelbase for a two-seater buggy is approximately 2400...2800 mm, it depends on the layout and proportions of the frame from which the proportions are taken. The track is assumed to be approximately 1400...1500 mm. When using extended drive shafts, the track can be increased to obtain greater stability. We take the dimensions of the crew part from the donor or use these dimensions:
These are the dimensions of the AZLK-2141 interior, it is larger than the masterpieces of the Volga Automobile Plant, but smaller than the Volga. The car is not built for sports, but for amateur rides, which is why comfort should be maximum. With a cabin height of 1200 mm, you can use regular seats, both driver and passenger. If your budget allows, you can purchase “sports” anatomical seats. Since the required level of safety cannot be achieved with conventional seat belts, it is necessary to purchase 4-point belts.
Buggy layout.
So, we have the following donors at our disposal:
- VAZ-2101 and its modifications
- VAZ-2108 and its modifications (VAZ-2110 is no different for us in terms of units)
- M-2141
All these donors dictate a different layout of the buggy, but cover all the layouts we need. Many people are starting to make assemblies from units. I do it a little differently - I choose the interior layout, and then I start placing the units. In principle, this does not matter, the algorithm is still the same - it makes no difference to us from which side we approach the motor shield. If you reverse the steps, nothing will change.
The algorithm for working on the drawings is as follows:
1. First you need to have a bunch of printed pictures with similar buggies on hand. This will allow you to clearly see all the cars from different angles; you need to constantly look at these cars in a new way - this will allow the eye to become less “blurred”. You can’t look at these cars all the time and try to draw something. You need to give yourself rest, you need to let your brain deal with other problems and let the idea of a buggy sit in your subconscious. This will allow the brain to better think through the concept of a buggy. If after some time you pick up the drafts, the decision will come on its own.
2. You need to have a ruler, a protractor, and two squares on hand (this will allow you to draw parallel lines - those who have studied graphics or draw know). Based on the printout, it is better to draw with gel pens or slate pencils. A regular pen quickly becomes clogged with powder applied to a sheet of paper during printing (if the printer is laser).
3. You need to find it on the Internet and write out the full technical characteristics buggy, so that using these parameters you can attach any size to your drawing.
4. It is necessary to set the starting point, the origin of the coordinate system. Since I start the layout from the interior, I took the front fastening of the driver's seat slide as the zero point. It’s so convenient for me, someone can take as a starting point the position of the engine compartment, the axis of the front wheel, or in general any other point from which it is easier to calculate everything.
5. Based on the parameters of the buggy from which the proportions are torn off, the parameters of our buggy are specified. We must take into account that when we deviate from the used units, components and parts, some parameters change. Let’s say that the buggy from which we are ripping off the proportions has 15″ rear wheels with an outer diameter of 670 mm (205/70R15). Our donor has 580 mm wheels (classic, VAZ-2108, 13″ or 14″ – different profile heights, outside diameter according to GOST 580 +/- 1%). It will change for us appearance cars, ground clearance, suspension settings. In addition to these parameters, others may change - you need to look in each case at what changes and how.
If we have a donor VAZ-2101 on our hands
If you leave the base from the donor, then the engine must be moved inside the base for better weight distribution. For the donor, the middle of the unit is located above the front axle. To avoid costly alterations, you can use a long driveshaft from the Niva VAZ-2121, or, taking into account the fact that the original shaft is a two-link one, remove one link and balance it. Accordingly, it is necessary to move both the driver and passenger with the unit. How much depends on the cardan shafts. At the rear you can install a final drive gearbox from a foreign car, preferably cast iron. It will improve the weight distribution of the car. I have a gearbox from a BMW 5 series - it weighs 40 kg, real, cast iron. I bought it only because it has the same mounting holes for CV joints from Moskvich. When choosing gearboxes from other foreign cars, you should take into account that sometimes there is a splined fit with the hinges secured with a retaining ring (as on front-wheel drive cars made by VAZ).
Photo of the gearbox
If you look at the engine compartment, you can see that the gearbox is located between the pilot and the passenger, in which case you can move the seats a little further. Or you can leave the same interior layout, but move the units and seats back.
The VAZ-2101 has an outer diameter of wheels of 580 mm. To make the buggy look better, you can install Volga wheels on it with an outer diameter of 640 mm. The excess is small, but with its width it will look a little better. The differential will not be affected, since compared to the donor, the mass of the buggy is guaranteed to be reduced by 40-50%. Once the layout is refined (once the length of the driveshaft is known), you can begin drawing the frame. Let's determine the ground clearance and draw the pipes of the bottom row. Let us indicate the position of the wheels. Let us take the axis of the front wheel as the origin. Above the pipes of the first row we place the units, seats and mannequins. According to the selected prototype, we determine the position of the main frame pipes.
You need to draw in layers - if on a computer, then programs engineering graphics They allow you to draw in layers; if on a drawing board, it is best to use drawing film. If we draw on a computer, then we need to select layers different colors– this will allow you to visually separate parts of the buggy. Another advantage of drawing in layers is that if you have several frames you like, you can place several options on different layers and see how it looks from the outside
Some of the design steps for a buggy are shown below: 
Final buggy layout:
If we are not satisfied with something in the design of the frame or in the inclination of individual pipes, we can redraw it all as many times as necessary for the final version of the buggy. The following drawing shows various options upper arches. It can be seen that the buggy can look different depending on the slopes of the main arcs.
In any case, you have to try and spoil the drafts, otherwise the result will be different from the desired one.
If we have a donor VAZ-2108 on our hands
The easiest way is to take the most common buggy as an idea - sandrail. The machine is extremely light, simple and best suited for the VAZ-2108 unit. Unlike the previous layout, the frame should be more elegant. We begin to copy the buggy and decide on the crew part. To fully imagine the ergonomics of the car, we measure the entire interior of the donor with a tape measure and write down all the data - where and how the controls are located, how the seat is placed and what positions it can occupy with various adjustments, where the radio, armrests, edges of the windows (windshield and side) and etc. We take the first bolt securing the seat slide as the zero reference point and measure all distances from it. The armrest allows you to hold your hand comfortably; the car is not a sports car and most people hold steering wheel with one hand. That is why we look at where the hand will be comfortable and it will not go numb in uncomfortable positions, we measure this height. After that, we proceed to the layout. We choose a ground clearance a little higher than that of the donor - we will sometimes have to wade through ditches, rough roads and light off-road. After this we draw the pipes of the first row. At the donor, we mark the distance from the axis of the front wheel to the skid mounting bolt - the point that is taken as the starting point. You can increase this value, since the driver of the buggy is shifted back and the front part of the buggy is narrowed; the width of the space under the pedals should be approximately 350 mm. We measure the position of the engine compartment dimensions (along the front plane of the radiator) from the wheel axis and transfer it to the drawing. After this we place the seats and mannequin. To reduce the cost, the wheels come from the donor. It also uses part of the electrics, seats, steering rack
All stages of buggy design repeat the previous layout
After this, we show the placement of controls, dashboard and other elements (at least schematically). The track of the front and rear wheels should be the same, so we safely accept the track of the donor's front wheels. The width of the engine compartment can be taken as the distance between the wings in the place where the shock absorber strut mounting cups are located. Interior height - you can take the same as the donor, or increase it a little, since the Lada is a little cramped for tall drivers. You can also move the seats back a little. We make room for the gas tank, battery, speakers, and some other components and assemblies that may be useful. Now let's determine the angles of rotation of the wheels - the inner wheel will turn by about 32 degrees, the outer wheel by about 25. Let's turn the wheels and find out how much space they need so that there is no contact with the frame in extreme positions.
After all the elements are more or less thought out on the frame, we proceed to drawing the frame pipes. The middle row pipes are located at the height at which it is comfortable for the hand to rest, while the protection will be as complete as possible from side collisions.
Printouts of frames from different angles should be in front of your eyes. This will allow you to carefully consider your frame, while you can safely copy all the angles and inclinations of the elements of the frame you like. It won't work the first time, but don't despair. To do this, you will need a ruler, a protractor, pens and a little time. Engineering experience may be minimal, since there is no need to calculate anything - the work is creative everywhere. This is roughly what it should look like.
If we have donor AZLK-2141 on our hands.
The easiest places to find as a starting point are drawings of the MPI buggy frame and drawings of the B-2908 buggy frame. The second drawings are more crude (or more precisely, less complete), so we carefully read this article and note what may be useful.
Here are the drawings of the MPI buggy from the Modelist-Konstruktor magazine 
This is how the buggy looks in metal (photo from the archive of the author of the article, V. Shcheglov) 
We transfer these drawings to the computer and start working. What's the first thing we do? We decide on the unit. There are almost no Cossacks left, so you need to choose something that is more interesting for the money and at the same time fresher. What's left? Moskvich-2141 - all rusty, but the units are in order. Consequently, we begin to experiment with the frame and install a unit from a Muscovite into it, especially considering the fact that there are three units to choose from - VAZ-2106-70 (and, in principle, any unit from a classic or from a front-wheel drive model, but with modifications, will do), UZAM331 (can be of different volumes) or a more preferable unit - Renault F3R. I chose it, especially since the donor was very inexpensive in terms of money - namely the complete power unit, electrics, spare parts for the chassis and much more. Based on the dimensions of the units, we can say the following - the length of the engine, taking into account water cooling, is the same as that of the MeMZ engine, the box has the same length, but narrower cross section than from Moskvich. The distance from the gearbox flange to the differential axis is the same.
So, let's start working on the layout. Having in hand original drawing with all the proportions, we will try to adapt it to the look that suits us.
This is what happened when replacing round pipes with profile ones. Special thanks for this drawing Sfairat
When adapting drawings to your units, the result may not be exactly what you expect. There is no need to be afraid of this; in the absence of experience, nothing will ever work out right away.
mpi_design
I've been looking at sites dedicated to cross-country cars for quite a long time. Some of the ideas are posted here. That is why I decided to make drawings of a frame that would look more modern and with a different unit. I took this Czech buggy as a prototype, especially taking into account the fact that there are wheel sizes, drawings of 1:1 units, there is a drawing of a dummy - everything should turn out almost the same.
So, the dummy, wheels, and main arcs have been drawn, now all that remains is to install the power unit and refine the layout. By going to the website http://www.raf.su, you need to clarify the technical requirements in order to know in which places of the frame which pipes are used. We install the unit. Let's see what happened. It very rarely succeeds the first time - as a rule, many nuances arise that I have not encountered before. That is why the layout has to be redone several times.
How to make a suspension yourself is described here, and this particular buggy is shown. To read this article you will need Adobe Reader.
Many steps are not shown, however, this is a clear example of what you can achieve yourself if you put in a little effort and don’t beg for drawings on the forum. The end result would be this:
Detail of drawings. The drawings do not have to be detailed - if you get confused, you can make the entire package of documents, right down to the technological maps. But we are garage DIYers, not designers with serial production. The main thing where you need to put the dimensions is the main arcs, which determine the geometry of the safety cage, suspension mounting points, and levers. In fact, more than half of the car is brewed on site.
Here are the drawings of the buggy from the classics: (clicking on the picture will open a larger picture in a new window)
Behind the wheel of this buggy is N.A. Leskov.
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