Growing grapes by cuttings in water. How to propagate grapes: techniques available to any summer resident. Video

The pruning process is carried out in the fall ( best time- end of September, beginning of October).
You need to choose the best bushes.
Cut off the middle part of the summer shoots of the fruit shoot (after the end of fruiting) or shoots on a replacement knot. In the very best case scenario cuttings should have a diameter of 7-10 mm, and the distance between nodes should be 7-10 cm.
Clean the cuttings from stepsons, tendrils, and tips (unripe).
Cut cuttings with 3-4 buds.
Soak in water for 24 hours.
Disinfect in iron sulfate.
Dry and label if necessary.
Make the necessary cuts: from below 5 mm from the lower bud, make the upper one oblique 1-2 cm above the upper bud.
Make 3-4 grooves 3 cm long from the bottom with a needle or knife. In this case, you only need to cut through the bark. This is done so that additional roots are formed.

Propagation of grapes by cuttings in spring

At the end of January - beginning of February, all cuttings will need to be taken out. They are soaked for 2 days in warm snow water (necessarily settled). The water needs to be changed daily. Then they can be kept in a special root formation stimulator for 1 day.

There are several ways to germinate grape cuttings before planting in the ground. You can choose the most convenient one for yourself. The germination rate will be approximately the same in any case.

Method 1

In a transparent glass (0.5 l), make 3-4 holes in the bottom using an awl.
Pour a 2-2.5 cm layer of a mixture of humus and soil (ratio 1:1).
Place a second glass of smaller diameter (0.2 l) in the center. The glass must be hollow.
Fill the space between the glasses with soil, compact it, and water it.
A small glass should be filled with pre-washed and calcined river sand.
Pour in the sand and remove the inner glass.
Make a hole in the sand 4 cm deep and 1 cm in diameter.
Insert the cutting into the resulting hole.
Water the sand.
Sprinkle the ground with sand and install a plastic bottle with the bottom cut off and the lid removed.

Watering should be done every day (or every other day if high humidity) in an amount of 30 ml of water. The bottle is removed after the roots grow to the very walls and about 4-5 leaves are formed.

Method 2

Cut off the neck of a plastic bottle. Make holes in its bottom.
Pour drainage and 6-8 spoons of soil mixture.
Place the handle in the bottle, and it should be slightly tilted so that its upper part coincides in height with the bottle (namely, the upper “eye”).
Pour steamed sawdust on top.
Cover with a plastic glass and turn the “eye” away from direct light.

The glass can be removed when the cutting will not fit in it, that is, in the active growth phase.

In this case, you need to water through trays. At the same time, water is poured into it to a level of 5 mm, then a bottle is placed. It is enough to keep it in water for about 15 minutes. Leaving for a longer period is not recommended.

Method 3

Place the cuttings in a plastic bag with a piece of damp foam at the bottom.
The cuttings should be rested against foam rubber.
Wrap the bag and put it in a dark place.
After 10 days, root buds should appear.
Plant the cuttings in a plastic cup as described in the first method.

How to propagate grapes from green cuttings

Grapes can also be propagated by cuttings, which are collected 10-15 days before flowering or at the very beginning. In this case, shoots from breaking off and pinching (two-bud cuttings) are used.

As soon as the cuttings begin to grow, you need to immediately return a sufficient amount of light.

After the cuttings germinated by any of the methods take root, you can plant them on permanent place. But there is a second option: to grow the seedlings throughout summer period, and in mid-September, transplant the stronger plants into a trench for grapes in a permanent place.

So, following these simple tips, you can special labor and gardening skills to expand the grape plantation. The result will be not only a beautiful “living” hedge, but also the opportunity to enjoy delicious and healthy berries. Plant and care with pleasure!

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You can use two methods: purchase ready-made seedlings in special nurseries or grow them yourself from cuttings. The latter method provides many advantages: you will grow a seedling of the grape variety you want, and you will also receive durable planting material that is much superior to the purchased one. Growing grapes from cuttings in winter (video) is the topic of this article, which will help you obtain high-quality planting material yourself.

Preparation of cuttings

Growing grapes - preparatory stage

Before you start growing grapes from cuttings, you need to prepare the cuttings themselves. Few summer residents have done this before, so they have little idea of this process. Preparation includes several important steps:

Slicing.
Storage.
Preparation for cultivation.

In order not to make mistakes and to perform all actions correctly, we propose to consider each item in more detail.

Cutting cuttings. Preparation of pipes is carried out only in autumn period time, since all weak branches die by this time. When circumcising, it is important to meet certain conditions:

It is necessary to cut cuttings only after the leaves have fallen.
You need to take only branches that produce good clusters, since it is from them that excellent seedlings grow.
It is desirable that the vine is smooth, without curved shapes.
The quality of the future seedling depends on how long the cutting is.

The cutting process cannot be carried out in frosty conditions, so if you did not have time to prepare the chibouks to sub-zero temperatures, their preparation is transferred to next year. When preparing cuttings, you should use pruning shears. Immediately after this, the cut branches should be placed in a solution of copper sulfate.

Cuttings

Storage e. Now it is important to create suitable conditions for storing cuttings. To do this, you need to tie chibouks of the same type into one bunch, put them in a plastic bag and wrap them tightly. The cuttings will have to be stored all winter, since they are planted only in early spring. The best place storage is:

Refrigerator, but only when there are a small number of cuttings.

Storing cuttings in the refrigerator

Storing cuttings in the basement

Dacha territory. Some simply bury the material in the ground, taking into account that the distance from the surface should be at least 50 cm.

Throughout the storage period, it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the cuttings. If swelling of the buds occurs, you need to further lower the temperature or move them to a colder place.

Preparation for cultivation . If you did everything correctly, then by the beginning of spring you will be able to start the growing process without any problems. First, you should check the suitability of each pipe. This is done by making a transverse cut. If water appears from the cut, it means that the cutting is perfectly preserved and ready for growing. Otherwise, the cuttings have dried out and are not suitable for further use. Also pay attention to the color of the cut. Ideally, it should be bright green, without any inclusions.

Once you accurately determine the number of suitable cuttings, it is time to wake them up. For this purpose it is used warm water, in which the chibouks must lie for at least 2 days. Immediately after, they are placed in a root formation stimulator, which can be purchased at any specialty store.

Cuttings in a root formation stimulator

Germination . The very last and most important stage. It is fashionable to germinate grape cuttings in several ways. Which one is better is up to you to decide:

Using a glass. To do this, you will need a large plastic glass, at the bottom of which there are three large holes awl Soil mixed with compost is poured into the bottom. Now take a smaller glass, cut off the bottom and insert it into a large glass. Sand is poured inside the small one and watered thoroughly. The stalk is lowered into the sand. To maintain the required temperature there, you can use plastic film.
Using a plastic bottle. Take an ordinary plastic bottle, at the bottom of which a small drainage system. A layer is placed on top fertile soil, compost or peat. The stem is lowered into the ground so that its tip is flush with the surface of the bottle. Cover with a plastic cup on top. As soon as the first shoots appear, the glass can be removed.

Two methods are good, so you can use them all at once. The main thing to remember is that grape seedlings love regular watering and a sufficient amount of sunlight. After the cuttings take root and the first leaves appear on the surface, you can begin planting seedlings on your summer cottage. Growing grapes from cuttings in winter is a simple task that even novice masters can do.

Video: Grapes from cuttings (secrets)

Working video - just click on "start"

Many beginning gardeners are interested in the question of how to grow grapes from cuttings. Why from cuttings, because this is the simplest, most effective and inexpensive way to grow grapes. In general, grapes are propagated by cuttings, seeds, layering and grafting. Sowing seeds is used when breeding new varieties. Usually, out of a thousand seedlings, 1-2 are of interest, the rest turn out to be worse than the original. Therefore, to propagate grapes, it is best to use cuttings - green summer ones or woody winter ones.

Preparation and storage of grape cuttings before planting

Now we will answer the question of how to prepare and how to store grape cuttings. Indeed, for many there is still a problem with preserving the cuttings before planting them, but all you need to do is act in the following way, which is described in this article.

In autumn, cuttings are taken from the best bushes grapes tested for yield and quality of berries. They are harvested during bush pruning, at the end of September and beginning of October. For cuttings, use the middle part of the fruit-bearing summer shoots of the fruit shoot or shoots that are cut to a replacement knot. Ideally, the diameter should be 7-10 mm, the length of internodes 7-10 cm. However, there are grape varieties with obviously thin vines. The cut vine is cleaned of leaves, tendrils, shoots, unripe tops, and cuttings with 3-4 buds are cut. The harvested grape cuttings are soaked in water for a day. They are disinfected in a solution of iron sulfate, dried and labeled. The cuttings are stored in refrigerators, cellars or basements at a temperature of 0 - +2, under plastic wrap.

On cuttings sharp knife cuts are made: the lower straight one is 5 mm from the lower kidney, the upper inclined one is 1-2 cm above the upper kidney, and the slope is made from the kidney. On the underside of the cutting, make 3-4 furrows 3 cm long with a needle or knife, cutting through the bark only to the phloem. Additional roots will grow from the furrows in the soil.

pruning cuttings for harvesting for the winter

In winter, at the end of January - beginning of February, the cuttings are taken out and soaked for two days in warm, settled or snow water, which is changed daily. Then they are kept in a root formation stimulator for one day.

Germination methods for subsequent planting of cuttings in the ground

We have correctly prepared and stored the grape cuttings; now it is time to answer the question of how to plant grapes with cuttings so that they produce a good root system and there are no problems with replanting into the ground in the future.

The first option for planting grape cuttings

For germination, use a transparent plastic glass with a capacity of 0.5 liters. 3-4 holes are made in its bottom with an awl. A mixture of leaf humus and soil is poured into the bottom of the glass in a 1:1 ratio, with a layer of 2-2.5 cm. A hollow a plastic cup 0.2 l. The space between the two glasses is covered with earth, which is compacted and watered. The inner glass is filled with washed and calcined river sand. It is watered and the inner glass is pulled out. In the center of the sand, to a depth of 4 cm, a hole is made with a stick with a diameter of 1 cm. A cutting is inserted into the hole. The sand is watered. The glass is covered with sand on top and closed with a plastic bottle with the bottom cut off and the lid not screwed on. The cuttings are watered with 30 ml of warm water every day or every other day, depending on the dryness of the air in the room. When the roots grow to the walls of the glass and 4-5 leaves form, remove the bottle.

The second option for rooting grape cuttings

In a plastic bottle without a neck, holes are made in the bottom and drainage is added. Then 6-8 spoons of soil mixture. The handle is tilted so that its upper eye is level with the bottle. After this, old, steamed sawdust is poured in. Place it on the windowsill with the peephole from the window and cover it with a plastic disposable glass. It is removed when the shoot no longer fits in it.

Watering of seedlings is carried out from below, through pallets. It is enough to pour 0.5 cm of water and keep the bottle with the seedling in the tray for no more than 15 minutes.

The third method of propagating grapes by cuttings

The cuttings are placed in a plastic bag. A piece of wet foam rubber is placed at the bottom. The cuttings rest their heels on the foam rubber, wrap them up and send them to the closet. After about 10 days, we check the appearance of root primordia. Then the cuttings are planted in a plastic glass as in the first option. This method makes it possible to select pre-sprouted cuttings and thereby make it possible to save space on the windowsill.

Roots are most actively formed at a temperature of +20-25 degrees. To do this, glasses with cuttings on a tray are placed near a sunny window under heating device. It is advisable to maintain a temperature of 12-18 degrees inside the bottle. Thereby root system The cutting grows faster than the shoot and the development of the seedling is greatly accelerated.

Propagation of grapes by green cuttings

The grapes take root easily with green cuttings. Cuttings are cut 10-15 days before flowering or at its beginning. For green cuttings, shoots obtained by breaking off and pinching are used. Cut or broken green shoots are immediately placed in a bucket of water. Then the shoots are cut into two bud cuttings and quickly placed in water. The lower cut is made obliquely under the lower node, the upper one above the node with the stump is 2-3 cm. Lower leaves removed, the top one is cut in half if it is very large. Chopped green cuttings are planted in cups or a box. After this, they put it in a greenhouse and darken it. The darkening is removed gradually after the cuttings clearly begin to grow.

planting grape cuttings in a larger container

In the fall, the plants are stored in the cellar or taken home if they do not have mature buds. In the spring, the seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place and grow in a bucket all summer. Grape seedlings grown from cuttings are planted in a trench in the fall, in mid-September.

Growing grape bushes is not so easy, especially when it comes to propagation. New bushes can be obtained in several ways: grafting, cuttings and planting seedlings. In this article we will discuss how to plant grapes from cuttings. With this method, the taste and quality characteristics varieties. To do everything right, you need to know important nuances all stages of this process.

If you want to get cuttings yourself, you need to take care of healthy planting material long before planting:

It’s worth choosing the mother bushes in advance - you can mark them so that you can easily find the right vine in the fall.
Take cuttings from bushes that have performed well during the fruiting period and do not have any signs of disease.
Chubuks with elongated internodes and mechanical damage, crooked or thin ones are absolutely not suitable for propagation.

Important! It is also worth carefully examining neighboring bushes for signs of disease.

Important! If you do not have such experience, then it is recommended to purchase cuttings of grapes that are grown in your region, because already acclimatized planting material will take root better.

Harvesting cuttings begins when the leaves fall off the grapes.

You can determine that a bush is ripe by the following signs:

Light brown color of branches.
If you pick up a green shoot, it will be much cooler than a vine ready for cuttings.
If you place ripe cuttings in a 2% iodine solution, the liquid will change color to blue.

Important! Fatty shoots are not suitable for cutting chibouks, since they cannot produce a root system.

The diameter of the cuttings must be at least 10 mm and must have 3-4 live buds. The length of the cutting should be approximately half a meter.

Grape cuttings - when is the best time to plant?

Gardeners consider autumn to be the most successful propagation period for grapes. In spring, young plants receive an impetus for development. In addition, when planting sprouts in the fall, they will not experience any stress associated with winter storage of cuttings. The grapes will strengthen faster and better over the summer; the first berries can be picked in the second year.

Preparation of cuttings can be carried out in early autumn, and planting begins in October and can be carried out until the first freezing of the soil.

Important! This method of growing is not simple or easy, but gardeners consider it the most reliable.

If you decide to plant in the spring, then the optimal time would be the second half of April - early May. Late planting is not recommended, as moisture from the soil will quickly evaporate and there is a risk of the root drying out.

Important! Not everything depends purely on the preferences of the gardener. You should definitely take into account your region of residence, because a lot depends on the climate:

Residents of northern regions (Ural, Siberia) should avoid planting cuttings in the fall, as the sprout may not survive the harsh winter.
For southern regions where the climate is mild and warm ( Krasnodar region, southern Ukraine), the method of planting grape cuttings in autumn is ideal.

Preparation of cuttings

Whether the grapes will take root depends on the cuttings and preparation of the planting vine. Therefore, at this stage gardening work needs to be taken more than seriously.

Important! Before planting grape cuttings without roots, they should be saturated with moisture by placing them in a bucket of clean water. In other cases, the cut material is placed in cellophane, first wrapped in a wet napkin.

Preparing cuttings for autumn planting:

Use pruning shears or a sharp knife to cut the stems.
Make sure that when slicing, the bark does not form creases or flattening.
The eyes on the vine should not crumble at the slightest pressure. Carefully inspect the cut - it will be white for a mature cutting.
The cut is made obliquely, the lower part of the cut should be next to the eye, and the upper part should be 2-3 cm above the remaining buds.
The thickness of the cutting should be from 0.7 to 1 cm.
Before planting grapes with cuttings, the stems are placed in water for 48 hours, after which they are lubricated with melted paraffin and placed in a solution of water and a root growth stimulator for a day.
Next, the cuttings are placed in soil or sawdust with the addition of a root growth stimulator.

Preparing cuttings for spring planting:

The mature vine is cut into stems 60-80 cm long - this length will allow the planting material to be better preserved and will produce less waste in the spring.
If for some reason it is not possible to plant the cuttings in a permanent place in the fall, then they can be stored until spring in tied bunches in a dry basement, or buried in trenches outside, covered for the winter. In this case, the pipes should be treated with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate or potassium permanganate for half an hour. Recommended storage temperature is from 0 to +2 degrees. Before placing the cuttings for storage, they are wrapped in film.
In the spring, the saved cuttings need to be sorted out, the dead ones should be thrown out, and the cuttings of the living ones should be renewed, cut a few centimeters higher than the autumn cuts.
Next, the chibouk is soaked in water for several days, after which the top is treated with paraffin, and the bottom with a special solution of honey and water or heteroauxin tablets and water.

Important! In order for the seedlings to germinate better, they are first planted in disposable glasses, plastic bags or plastic bottles. When is the best time to plant grape cuttings for seedlings? Optimal time considered to be the end of February - beginning of March:

Holes are made in any selected container, drainage is placed at the bottom and covered with soil mixture.
The chubuk is placed in the glass at an angle so that the top peephole is level with the top edge of the glass. The container is filled with pre-steamed sawdust.
The seedling is placed on a windowsill or any other well-lit place. It is covered with a plastic cup on top.
Watering is carried out through trays.
Planting of chibouks in the ground is carried out only after the buds have blossomed and several leaves have appeared.

Preparing the soil for grapes

You can plant cuttings in any soil, since in this regard the plant is not at all picky. However, some nuances should still be taken into account, because dessert and table varieties of berries love different soils:

Table grape varieties are best propagated by cuttings in humus-rich soil on a hillside. Groundwater at the landing site should be approximately three meters deep.
On dark and rocky soil, grapes feel just fine, because such soil warms up faster, as it attracts the sun's rays.

Before planting grapes from cuttings, you need to check the soil in the selected location. The vine especially loves the following types of soil:

Carbonate or weakly carbonate;
Clayey;
Light colored sandstone;
Red soil;
Chernozem;
Sandy loam soil;
Dark and light chestnut soils;
Serozems.

Important! The soil must be fertile, light and breathable.

After planting, the soil should be constantly loosened throughout the growing season.

Planting trenches or holes are fertilized and prepared in advance. The soil must settle well before planting.

Choosing a landing site

The landing site must be chosen correctly:

Plant grape cutting in a place where an old plantation has just been uprooted, in no case should it be done, since spores of viral and fungal diseases and various insects may remain in the soil. Planting in this place can begin only after 2-3 years.
Since for grapevine Ventilation is very important; there is no need to plant chibouks in the shade or between trees.
Seedlings are planted in the direction from south to north. In this way, maximum illumination and heating of the plantation by sunlight is achieved.

Preparing the seat

To ensure good rooting of plants, you must follow these rules when planting grapes from cuttings:

Planting is carried out in trenches or holes. Fertile soil with upper layers from a depth of no more than 30 cm, they are thrown to one side, and the rest of the soil is thrown to the other, which over time is simply removed from the site.
The width of the trench should be no less than 80-90 cm, the pit should have dimensions of 80x80 cm. The depth of both the trench and the pit should be no less than 80 cm.
The place for planting chibouks should be spacious enough so that the powerful root system of the growing grapes feels comfortable.
The bottom of the trench or hole is covered with drainage.
Fertilizers and humus in the amount of 2 buckets are mixed, a layer of fertile soil, which was removed from the hole earlier, is poured on top.

Important! Small crushed stone is perfect for drainage. You cannot plant cuttings directly on humus, as the root system will get burned and will not develop further.

Planting cuttings in the ground

Planting chibouks is not so simple work, it requires patience and attention from the gardener, because the harvest directly depends on this.

Important! The cutting can be planted when its root system has reached 3 cm.

How to plant grape cuttings?

It is important to maintain the distance between planted plants. It must be at least 2.5 meters.
A three-meter indentation is made between the rows of vines.
The cutting is buried in the ground at an angle of 45 degrees and buried in soil, trampling the soil around it.
Seedlings are planted facing north.
Each planted cutting is watered with warm water and a plastic bottle is placed on it.
After the water has been absorbed into the soil, it can be loosened, thereby restoring the access of oxygen to the lower layers of the soil.
If planting is carried out in the fall and the air temperature is quite low, then the cuttings are immediately covered with sawdust, pine needles or peat. The protective mound should be at least 30 cm - this is the only way the grape seedlings will be protected from frost.

Important! It is imperative to ensure that at least two buds remain on the surface.

Important! When planting, you need to pour at least 4 buckets of water into one hole.

There should be air space between the first layer of shelter and the pit. At autumn planting a powerful root system will soon form, and in the spring the rapid vegetative development of the young vine will begin.

Caring for grape seedlings

First of all, it is very important to water the planted vine on time and abundantly.
It is better to cover the ground under the seedlings with mulch. Hay is quite suitable as the latter. Mulch will retain moisture in the soil, prevent it from evaporating quickly, and also prevent the growth of weeds. Important! Before watering, the mulch is removed and then put back in place.
Beds with seedlings need to be weeded periodically - this way you will provide the lower layers of the soil with access to oxygen, which is so important for the roots of grapes.
At autumn landing in the middle of summer, the seedling needs to be deepened by 20 cm. Having dug up the plant, remove excess roots - this is necessary for better development main root.
To prevent diseases, seedlings need to be treated with fungicides.
In autumn, trellises are installed under the seedlings.
Next fall you need to start pruning the grapes. This measure is necessary to avoid growing wild grapes.
Since the root system of young grapes is fragile and not fully developed, winter period It is recommended to cover the bush. The vine is lowered from the trellis and covered with film.

To vegetative propagation grapevine was successful, you need to know how and when to plant grapes from cuttings, because this is the method considered by gardeners to be the most effective. By observing the nuances of this difficult matter, you will soon be able to get your first harvest from new bushes.

Every gardener cherishes the dream of a beautiful vineyard in his soul. But to bring this secret to life, you need the skill of growing the necessary varieties from cuttings, knowledge about caring for seedlings and protecting them from frost and pests. This is the only way to achieve your dreams and regularly harvest excellent harvests from it.

Basics of grape growing technology

Plant propagation occurs in two ways:

Ready seedlings.
Suitable for beginner gardeners who have no experience in growing grapes at home. When purchasing, you can get advice on planting and caring for a young plant.

Photos of grape cuttings

Obtaining seedlings from cuttings.
This method is preferable, as it guarantees that the seedling will take root in the same climate conditions, with the same soil composition and produce an excellent harvest. The quality of this planting material much higher. The last method will be discussed in more detail, as it contains a certain number of subtleties.

Harvesting and winter storage of seedlings

Shoots from healthy and fertile bushes are selected for cutting. The shoot must be at least 1 cm in diameter, 45-75 cm long and have from 4 to 8 healthy buds. It is recommended to cut longer shoots, about 110-135 cm, so that after winter season it was possible to cut off unsuitable pieces of the cutting, leaving only the healthy part.

Preparation of cuttings occurs in mid-autumn, before the first frost and snowfall. It is strictly forbidden to carry out workpieces when negative temperatures. Freshly cut vines are placed in a solution of copper sulfate.

Procedure for preparing for storage:

The shoots are placed in a container with water for a day.
After this, they are kept for half an hour and disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Wipe with a paper towel and dry in the open air.
The shoots are marked with labels indicating the variety and cutting date. You can use a photo for this.
At the end of all preparatory procedures, all shoots are wrapped in polyethylene, tied and stored.

You can store the bundles in the refrigerator, basement or cellar, in a special pit with a depth of 50 cm.
Optimal temperature storage - from 2 to 6 degrees. The main thing is to prevent plants from germinating ahead of time.

Stored shoots should be periodically checked for dryness, rot and mold. In case of damage to future seedlings, repeat the preparatory procedures according to the list.
If swollen buds are found on the cuttings, the bunch must be urgently transferred to a place with a lower temperature.

Preparing for planting grapes

In the spring, each individual cutting is checked for freshness using a transverse cut on the vine. A good cutting, suitable for further planting, will have juice at the site of the cut, and the cut itself will be green.

Now the fun part begins - the process of growing grapes:

Before planting cuttings in the ground, you need to prepare containers and substrate. Plastic cups, scraps of bottles and milk cartons can serve as planting containers. Several holes are punched in the bottom for drainage excess moisture. The substrate contains earth, sand, humus and sawdust in equal proportions. It is recommended to periodically moisten and loosen the mixture.

After this, small cuts are made on the cuttings with pruning shears directly under each bud and at a height of 3 cm from it. Vertical grooves are made on each cutting with a sharp nail.
The cuttings are immersed in a container of water for up to 3 days to soak in moisture. And then they are placed in a container with a root growth stimulator. After this, the cuttings are placed in jars with clean water in sunny place. The water level should not decrease; it should be kept at 4-5 cm.

After 2 weeks, the upper bud on the shoots should swell, and after 4 weeks roots will appear. When this happens, you can proceed to the next stage. Before planting seedlings in plastic container, you should prepare a drainage up to 4 cm high. After this, the substrate is poured to a height of about 7-8 cm. The cutting is installed vertically in the container, on the soil mixture and sprinkled to the top. Watering should be moderate but constant; containers with seedlings should be placed on the windowsills of the sunny side of the house. After 3-4 days, it is recommended to feed the chibouks wood ash and potassium.

When stabilizing outside temperature at around 2-5 degrees Celsius, cuttings are planted in open ground, but with protection from direct sun rays until complete rooting. To activate the growth of the root system, it is recommended to perform basting - sprinkle the cuttings to a height of 15 cm from the ground level with a layer of peat or humus. To speed up the process, you can cover the seedlings with film or glass.

Drop off at school

A school is a place where grapes are grown from cuttings. This is a well-lit and ventilated area with light and loose soil, where fertilizers have been applied in sufficient quantities.
In mid-April, the area is dug up to a depth of about 40 cm. square meter A little more than two buckets of sand, 100 g of nitroammophosphate, and a bucket of humus are added.

After this, mounds are formed from the soil in the direction from north to south. The cuttings are soaked for 24 hours, and then cuts are made on them, dividing each seedling into segments of 3 eyes. The topmost cut is covered with paraffin to prevent drying out.

The seedlings are inserted into the formed mounds and watered very actively. After this, the ground around the seedling is covered with waterproof material. The soil under the material should not be allowed to dry out.

Planting grapes in the ground

Transplantation of seedlings from shkolka into the ground is carried out at the end of May, at a temperature of about 10-15 degrees.
The distance between seedlings is approximately 2.5 meters.
The distance between rows is 2 meters.
To enhance the development of the root system, it is recommended to slightly trim the already formed roots by half a centimeter.
IN landing pit a small mound is formed on which the seedling is placed. Then, the hole is filled with soil.
After this, the soil is compacted and the seedling is covered with a cardboard cap to protect it from direct sunlight.

Growing grapes in a polycarbonate greenhouse

Special climate conditions in some regions force gardeners to establish greenhouses on their plots for growing plants at optimal conditions. Building a greenhouse for grapes takes a lot of time and resources, because the design must be carefully thought out, taking into account the needs of the plant varieties that will be grown there.

But despite the difficulties, the popularity of planting grapevines in greenhouses is growing. At the right conditions cultivation and care, this will allow you to get high yields even in regions with harsh climates and dry soil.

Advantages of growing in a greenhouse

Greenhouse bushes have a list of advantages compared to plants in open ground:
harvest for early stages and in large volumes;
convenience when working with plants, since the same microclimatic conditions are observed in the greenhouse, and the gardener himself is protected from precipitation and wind;
plants are protected from various pests, fungus, and the berries are not eaten by wasps;
in the event of diseases, the amount of necessary chemicals for treatment is reduced due to closed space premises.

Features of the greenhouse design

For construction you can use ready-made option in the form of a vegetable greenhouse made of polycarbonate, or build it yourself. In the latter case, you can give free rein to your imagination and create a building to your liking, taking into account all your personal wishes in terms of size.

Main, new building must provide:

a large number of free space for the full growth of grape bushes and ease of work indoors;
high level of thermal insulation to protect against frost;
normal ventilation and air flow to avoid air stagnation and damage to the vines from high temperatures;
reliability and strength of the frame to resist possible snow masses in bad weather.

Sheathing material

Now the most the best option for covering a greenhouse is considered cellular polycarbonate. The material is highly durable and easy to process, which greatly simplifies installation reliable design. At the same time, polycarbonate provides good preservation warmth in the room even in winter. However, in summer the temperature in the room can reach about 50 degrees, which requires ventilation in the form of opening windows and sliding panels.

The roof frame for laying polycarbonate is made in the form of a hemisphere. This will increase the insulation from moisture due to the absence of additional seams on top, and will also allow the entire structure to withstand loads in the form of snow masses. To build the frame, a solid steel profile of 20x40 mm will be sufficient.

Watch the video: Growing grapes from cuttings

Choosing a variety for planting in a greenhouse

Beginners in gardening are advised to pay attention to early and frost-resistant grape varieties, from which they are guaranteed to get high yield. If the greenhouse shows itself well, then immediately after harvesting you can move on to more heat-loving plants.

As they say experienced gardeners, the best variety grapes are considered one whose shortcomings can be tolerated. After all, it is important not just to choose the first variety you like and plant it. You need to first familiarize yourself with the characteristics and features of each type.

In the regions of the Moscow region, you can start with some types of raisins, Michurinsky grapes, and Korinka Russkaya. Muscat Tason performs well. In regions with extremely cold winters, the following unpretentious varieties are grown quite successfully: Ruslan, Negritenok, Aleshenkin and many others. But it's better not to rely on independent choice, but consult the seller when purchasing seedlings.

Rules for planting grapes with your own hands

The procedure for planting grapevines is as follows:

retreating from the wall of the building about 50 cm, a hole is dug with dimensions of 80 x 80 cm and a depth of 70 cm;
the resulting hole is spilled with water;
the bottom of the pit is filled with a mixture of 2 liters of ash and 300 grams of 2% superphosphate;
drainage is laid on top in a layer of about 20 cm;
a pipe is stuck into the drainage for subsequent watering of the root system with a diameter of 10 cm and such a length that after filling the hole, the tip of the pipe sticks out at a height of 10 cm from the ground level;
a wooden stake about 1.5 m high is stuck into the center of the hole, to which the seedling will subsequently be tied;
dry brushwood is placed on the drainage thin layer, small planks or broken slate to avoid subsequent silting;
the protective layer is filled with soil to a level of 20 cm;
a seedling is installed on top, the roots are directed downwards;
after this, the hole is filled with a mixture of sand, humus and the top layer of earth in a ratio of 1: 2: 5;
after filling the hole, the first watering is carried out through the neck of the pipe;
After the backfilled layers settle, the mixture is added to the pit until the site is completely leveled with the ground level.
The bushes are planted at intervals of 2.5 m. If a number of bushes are planted, you can dig a trench instead of a hole. Backfilling occurs in the same way as a separate pit.

Microclimate and grape care

The room temperature is adjusted using ventilation windows.
The following temperature conditions are recommended:

during bud break – 14 degrees during the day and 8 at night;
during flowering and shoot growth - 25 degrees during the day and 16 at night;
when berries ripen - 30 degrees during the day and 20 at night.

For the winter, the vine is laid on the ground, covered with agrofibre, pine needles or dry straw and sprinkled with snow, which will provide moisture as it gradually melts throughout the winter. Watering the vines is carried out with warm water heated in the sun in the first half of the day.