Construction of a stove pipe (chimney) made of brick and metal. How to properly make a chimney on a brick roof Outside a house or building

The technology for laying a brick chimney itself is quite simple and understandable, since, unlike the brick stove itself, the pipe usually does not have internal channels that are complex in configuration. However, despite the relative simplicity of the design, one cannot ignore the colossal importance of this section of the stove, since the quality of heating of the house and the safety of both the building itself and the people living in it directly depend on it. Therefore, in order for all the work to be crowned with success, it is necessary to approach it with the utmost care, relying on recommendations experienced craftsmen and on developed and tested design schemes.

When erecting a chimney, you should remember that the evenness of the internal walls of the channel is no less important than aesthetics external masonry. Not only the stability of the required draft in the stove depends on this circumstance, but also the duration of operation of the chimney without cleaning, since the smoke rising through the pipe leaves a much smaller amount of fuel combustion waste on smooth walls, without protruding mortar and deep seams, and the channel becomes overgrown much slower.

What types of brick chimneys are there?

Chimneys of brick stoves may have different types, depending on the location of their installation, the design of the furnace, and also on how many heating devices will be connected to the pipe. Thus, there are three main types of chimney brick pipes: mounted, root and wall.

Mounted chimneys . The most widely used designs are mounted pipes. They are good because they are compact and do not take up any space. additional area indoors, but are simply a vertical extension of the stove.

They are erected on top of the last one, covering the furnace brick row, around the left hole. Then the pipe is passed through the attic floor, attic, rafter system and rises above the roof.

Root chimneys . This type of pipe is installed in cases where it is planned to connect a metal stove, or several heating devices located on one or even several floors.

In addition to metal ones, such pipes can also be connected brick kilns. This type of chimney is especially convenient if it is necessary to build two stoves in the house in adjacent rooms. For example, for a kitchen you need a stove with hob, and for next room- heating only. In order not to lay out a separate pipe for each of them, a main chimney is built between the rooms, to which both heating devices are connected. Not only two, but also three or four stoves located on different floors of the house can be connected to a pipe of this type. In any case, it is necessary to very accurately calculate the size of the internal chimney channel, otherwise normal draft may not be ensured when several devices are operating simultaneously. The answer to the question why may be different.

Wall chimneys they are built near the main (external or internal) walls or built into them. They can be used, just like main ones, to connect several furnaces located on different floors of a building.

The convenience of this design lies in the fact that it is located outside the residential premises, without occupying their space. For example, on the first floor of a house a fireplace can be built and connected to a wall chimney (there the pipe will be more similar in structure to a mounted one), and on the second floor a smoke exhaust pipe can be cut in metal furnace(the same as in the version with the root requirement).

The disadvantages of this chimney option are the considerable cost of the project and the labor intensity of the work. Firstly, the construction of this structure will require much more building material. Secondly, the chimney, if it is partially on the street, requires serious insulation measures, otherwise winter period, with temperature changes, condensation will form in the internal channels, which will significantly reduce operating efficiency heating device. Therefore, if this chimney option is chosen, then it would be more prudent to sacrifice the space inside the premises and run the pipe along the internal wall of the house.

Parameters of brick chimneys

Main sections of a brick chimney

A brick chimney is divided into sections that have their own purpose and are named differently. These features must be clarified immediately so that in the future it will be easier to understand the description of the pipe construction work.

1 – Pipe head. When laying out this part of the chimney, the bricks are moved in outer side to create a kind of “visor”, as if hanging over the lower sections, partially protecting the pipe walls from precipitation.

2 – The neck of the pipe is located immediately below the head and has the same perimeter throughout its entire height, without protrusions, expansions or narrowings.

3 – “Otter” has more complex circuit masonry, since it has a protective function. Firstly, the “otter” masonry, hanging over the gap formed at the junction of the roofing material and the walls of the pipe, closes it from the penetration of precipitation and creates a space for the installation of waterproofing material. Secondly, its expanded walls become a guarantee of safety - at the point of passage through the roofing, due to the increased thickness, the necessary level of thermal insulation is created.

4 – A metal or other sheet (apron), mounted at the bottom of the otter, forms a kind of flashing that covers the joint between the brick wall of the pipe and the roofing material.

5 – “Fluff” - this is the expanded part of the pipe, located in the area where it passes through the attic floor. The walls of the “fluff”, like the “otters”, are thicker than other flat sections of the chimney - this is necessary for fire safety, since the attic floor very often consists of flammable materials, and their overheating must not be allowed.

6 – Construction roofing.

7 - The riser is a straight section of pipe that has smooth masonry throughout its entire height and is located in attic space from "fluff" to "otter".

8 – Attic floor.

9 – An umbrella cap is often attached to the top of the head, which will protect the internal channel of the chimney from water and debris getting into it.

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The main function of the chimney is effective removal combustion products from the combustion chamber into the atmosphere. To do this, the chimney pipe is connected to numerous channels located in the stove structure, with which it must interact harmoniously. If the stove and chimney are built correctly, in accordance with the developed parameters, then when operating the heating device, good draft should be created inside the ducts, which will facilitate the timely removal of smoke to the street. However, at the same time, this should not lead to the heat generated by it literally flying out of the furnace. In a word, everything needs a “golden mean”.

Chimney channel section

For selection correct parameters cross-section of the chimney channel, you need to take into account the power of the stove, as well as the size of the combustion chamber. Smoke exhaust ducts will remain clean longer if their inner walls are made smooth, without protrusions or sagging of solution.

For this reason, during brick laying, excess material protruded in the seams. masonry mortar it is necessary to clean not only from the outer, but also from the inner walls. Some owners of houses equipped with fireplaces or stoves use another way to achieve smooth channel walls - inward brick chimney install a ceramic pipe called an inlay.

The advantage of this design is not only that the insert has absolutely smooth inner walls. It is round in cross-section, that is, it has no corners, which means that smoke flows will not encounter obstacles in their path and will not create unnecessary turbulence and the “backdraft” effect.

The illustration on the right shows the “ideal” movement of the flow of hot gases that are in the pipe round section twist into the correct spiral and do not meet resistance.

In addition, you need to take into account the fact that large-width chimneys, which are still installed in old houses, often have poor draft. This occurs due to the fact that the air heated in the furnace in a large space inside the pipe quickly cools down, which leads to the formation of condensation, which contributes to a decrease in draft, as well as smoke in the premises, and rapid overgrowing of the channel with soot. To heat a stove with such a chimney pipe design, you will need to use too much fuel. Therefore, it would be most rational to correct them by dismantling the wide upper part of the chimney, then narrowing the shaft and installing a round or square with rounded corners, ceramic, metal or asbestos insert into it.

Now from the form - to the linear parameters. Size internal section the chimney channel is one of the most important characteristics, since the efficiency of the stove directly depends on it. The correct ratio of the power of the heating device and the cross-sectional dimensions of the pipe must be observed. Another guideline for determining the correct size of the channel can be the opening of the blower door - the cross-section of the pipe in any case should not be smaller than the blower hole.

The cross-section of the chimney shaft, relative to the size of the combustion chamber window, can be determined as follows. For fireplaces with an open firebox, the chimney opening size is on average 1:10. However, depending on the cross-sectional shape and height of the pipe, this indicator may vary in one direction or another. Approximate values of the channel cross-sectional area (in percent) are given in the table below.

Ratiof/F in % (f – cross-sectional area of the chimney channel;F – combustion chamber window area)

Pipe height, m	Sectional shape of the internal channel of the chimney pipe
	ROUND	SQUARE	RECTANGULAR
5	11.2	12.4	13.2
6	10.5	11.6	12.3
7	10	11	11.7
8	9.5	10.5	11.2
9	9.1	10.1	10.6
10	8.7	9.7	10.2
11	8.9	9.4	9.8

It is clear that in addition to the size of the firebox window, it is also necessary to take into account the reasonable height of the pipe - for example, a huge 10-meter pipe on the roof of a small, squat country house would look completely ridiculous.

The calculation itself is simple. Using the table, based on the height of the pipe and the shape of its internal channel, the optimal f/F ratio is determined. Then, based on the area of the combustion window, it will not be difficult to determine the area of the chimney channel. Well, then, using geometric formulas, all that remains is to reduce the resulting value to linear dimensions - the diameter for a round pipe or the length of the sides for a rectangle.

This calculation algorithm is implemented in the calculator below.

The efficiency and safety of a heating device that produces heat by burning a particular fuel largely depends on the parameters and condition of the chimney. Today, many companies have started producing insulated steel models, but not all users are ready to put up with their high cost and relatively short service life. Often, homeowners decide to build a chimney pipe using traditional technology, that is, from brick, with their own hands. To do this, you need to follow some rules and know what materials are best to use.

Strengths and weaknesses of a brick chimney

Brick chimneys can be used in any facility, be it a boiler room or a private house. With the advent of prefabricated steel sandwiches, they have become less popular, but are still widely used. This is explained by the following advantages:

a brick chimney is cheaper than a “sandwich”;
lasts longer: approximately 30 years;
is an important architectural element and is ideally combined visually with certain types of roofing, such as tiles.

But this design also has plenty of disadvantages:

In terms of complexity and duration, the construction of such a chimney is inferior to the installation of a “sandwich”, and special transport will be required to deliver the materials.
A brick chimney has significant weight, so it must be provided with a reliable foundation.
In diameter it has rectangular shape, although the most suitable is a circular cross-section. Whirls form in the corners, preventing the normal flow of gases and thus worsening traction.
The inner surface of a brick chimney, even if finished with plaster, remains rough, as a result of which it becomes covered with soot more quickly.

Unlike stainless steel, brick is quickly destroyed by acid condensation. The latter is formed if the temperature of the flue gases during their movement through the pipe manages to drop below 90 degrees. Therefore, when connecting a modern, economical boiler with a low-temperature exhaust or a stove operated in smoldering mode (heat generators of the Professor Butakov, Bullerjan, Breneran brands) to a brick chimney, it is necessary to line it, that is, install a stainless steel pipe inside.

Elements of a brick chimney

The design of the chimney is very simple.

The smoke exhaust duct is protected on top by a cone-shaped part - an umbrella or cap (1), which prevents precipitation, dust and small debris from getting inside. The upper element of the pipe - the head (2) - is wider than its main part. Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce the amount of moisture that gets into the lower area - the neck (3) during rain.

Above the roof there is another widening - an otter (5). Thanks to it, atmospheric moisture does not enter the gap between the chimney and the roofing (6). On the otter with the help cement mortar a slope (4) is formed, along which the water that gets onto the pipe runs off. To prevent the rafters (7) and sheathing (8) from catching fire from contact with the hot surface of the chimney, they are wrapped in heat-insulating material.

The section of the chimney crossing attic space, is called a riser (9). In its lower part, just at the level of the attic floor, there is another widening - fluff (10).

Note! All three widenings - head, otter and fluff - are made only due to thickening of the wall, while the cross-section of the channel always remains constant. The otter with fluff, as well as other chimney elements installed at the intersections of the roof or ceilings, are called trims.

The thick walls of the fluff protect the wooden floor elements (11) from excessive heat, which can cause them to ignite.

The chimney can be made without fluff. Then, in the area where the ceiling passes, a steel box is mounted around the pipe, which is subsequently filled with a bulk heat insulator - expanded clay, sand or vermiculite. The thickness of this layer should be 100–150 mm. But experienced users do not recommend using this cutting option: the insulating filler falls through the cracks.

The fluff is additionally lined with an effective non-flammable heat insulator (12). Previously, asbestos was used everywhere in this capacity, but after its carcinogenic properties were discovered, they are trying not to use this material. A harmless, but more expensive alternative is basalt cardboard.

The lowest section of the chimney is also called the neck (14). It has a valve (13), through which the draft can be adjusted.

Depending on the construction method, the chimney may be one of the following types:

Mounted. The stove itself serves as the basis for this design. To support the impressive weight of the chimney, its walls must be two bricks thick.
Root. Such a chimney stands on a separate foundation and is not part of any heat-generating installation. The smoke exhaust pipe of the stove or boiler is connected to it through a horizontal tunnel - a reversible sleeve.
Wall. Chimneys of this type are channels in load-bearing walls. In order to save heat, they usually use interior walls, on both sides of which there are heated rooms.

In a vertical brick chimney, draft is formed naturally, that is, due to convection. Required condition for the formation of an upward flow is the temperature difference between the ambient air and the exhaust gases: the greater it is, the stronger the draft is formed in the pipe. Therefore for normal functioning chimney, it is very important to take care of its insulation.

Calculation of basic parameters

At the design stage it is necessary to determine the height of the chimney and dimensions cross section smoke exhaust channel. The task of the calculation is to ensure optimal traction force. It must be sufficient to ensure that the required amount of air enters the firebox and all combustion products are removed in full, and at the same time not too large so that hot gases have time to give up their heat.

Height

The height of the chimney must be selected taking into account the following requirements:

The minimum height difference between the grate and the top of the head is 5 m.
If the roof is covered with flammable material, e.g. bitumen shingles, the chimney head should rise above it by at least 1.5 m.
For roofs with non-combustible coating, the minimum distance to the top is 0.5 m.

Horse pitched roof or a flat parapet in windy weather should not create support over the chimney. To do this you need to adhere to the following rules:

if the pipe is located closer than 1.5 m in relation to the ridge or parapet, then it should rise above this element by at least 0.5 m;
when removed from the ridge or parapet at a distance of 1.5 to 3 m, the head of the pipe can be at the same height as this element;
at a distance of more than 3 m, the top of the head can be placed below the ridge, at the height of an inclined line drawn through it with an angle of 10 degrees relative to the horizontal.

If there is a higher building near the house, then the chimney should be erected 0.5 m above its roof.

Section dimensions

If a stove or boiler is connected to the chimney, then the cross-sectional dimensions should be determined depending on the power of the heat generator:

up to 3.5 kW: the channel is made the size of half a brick - 140x140 mm;
from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
from 5.2 to 7 kW: 200x270 mm;
over 7 kW: in two bricks - 270x270 mm.

The power of factory-made heat generators is indicated in the passport. If the stove or boiler is homemade, you have to determine this parameter yourself. The calculation is carried out according to the formula:

W = Vt * 0.63 * * 0.8 * E / t,

W - heat generator power, kW;
Vt - volume of the firebox, m 3;
0.63 - average furnace load factor;
0.8 - average coefficient showing what part of the fuel burns completely;
E - calorific value fuel, kW*h/m3;
T is the burning time of one fuel load, hours.

Typically, T = 1 hour is taken - approximately this is the time it takes for a portion of fuel to burn during normal combustion.

The calorific value E depends on the type of wood and its moisture content. The average values are:

for poplar: at a humidity of 12% E - 1856 kWh/cubic meter. m, at a humidity of 25 and 50% - 1448 and 636 kW*h/m3, respectively;
for spruce: at humidity 12, 25 and 50%, respectively, 2088, 1629 and 715 kW*h/m3;
for pine: respectively, 2413, 1882 and 826 kW*h/m3;
for birch: respectively, 3016, 2352 and 1033 kW*h/m3;
for oak: respectively, 3758, 2932 and 1287 kW*h/m3.

For fireplaces, the calculation is slightly different. Here the cross-sectional area of the chimney depends on the size of the firebox window: F = k * A.

F - cross-sectional area of the smoke exhaust duct, cm 2;
K - proportionality coefficient, depending on the height of the chimney and the shape of its cross-section;
A is the area of the firebox window, cm 2.

The coefficient K is equal to the following values:

with a chimney height of 5 m: for a round section - 0.112, for a square section - 0.124, for a rectangular section - 0.132;
6 m: 0.105, 0.116, 0.123;
7 m: 0.1, 0.11, 0.117;
8 m: 0.095, 0.105, 0.112;
9 m: 0.091, 0.101, 0.106;
10 m: 0.087, 0.097, 0.102;
11 m: 0.089, 0.094, 0.098.

For intermediate height values, the K coefficient can be determined using a special graph.

They tend to make the actual dimensions of the smoke exhaust duct close to the calculated ones. But they are selected taking into account the standard sizes of bricks, blocks or cylindrical parts.

Materials and tools

A brick chimney is operated under conditions of significant temperature changes, so it should be built from the highest quality bricks. Compliance with this rule will determine how safe the structure will be: if the brick does not crack, it means that poisonous gases and sparks that can cause a fire will not enter the room.

Types of bricks

The pipe is erected from solid ceramic bricks with fire-resistant properties of grades from M150 to M200. Depending on the quality, this material is divided into three grades.

First grade

When making such bricks, the temperature and holding time during firing ideally correspond to the type of clay. You can recognize it by the following signs:

the blocks are bright red, with a possible yellowish tint;
the body of the brick has no pores or inclusions visible to the eye;
all edges are even and smooth, there are no crumbled areas on the edges;
tapping with a light hammer or other metal object gives a clear and clear sound.

Second grade

Such a brick is unburnt. Here are the signs that characterize it:

the blocks have a pale orange, slightly saturated color;
numerous pores are visible on the surface;
the sound when tapped is dull and short;
There may be defects on the edges and edges in the form of burrs and crumbled areas.

Brick of the 2nd grade is characterized by low heat capacity, frost resistance and density.

Third grade

the blocks have a deep dark red color, some are almost brown;
when tapped, the sound is too loud;
edges and edges contain defects in the form of chips and burrs;
the structure is porous.

Such bricks do not have frost resistance, do not retain heat and are too fragile.

The chimney should be built from first grade brick. Second-grade should not be used at all, but third-grade can be used to make foundations for free-standing pipes.

What solution is needed

The quality requirements for mortar are as high as for brick. Under any temperature, weather and mechanical influences, it must ensure the tightness of the masonry throughout its entire service life. Since individual sections of the chimney operate in different conditions, then different solutions are used when laying it.

If the pipe being erected is a root pipe, then its first two rows (zone No. 3), located under the floor, should be laid on a cement-sand mortar (3-4 parts of sand for 1 part of cement). To make the mixture more plastic, you can add 0.5 parts of lime to it.

The higher-lying sections of the chimney, up to and including the fluff, have an internal temperature of 355 to 400 degrees, so when constructing them, a clay-sand mortar is used. If the fluff ends under the ceiling (zone No. 8), and the cutting is made of bulk material(zone No. 9), then the use of this mixture also applies to cutting rows.

The riser, otter and neck of the chimney (zone No. 10), which do not get very hot, but are subject to wind loads, should be installed using lime mortar. The same composition can be used when constructing the head (zone No. 11), but a regular cement-sand mixture is also suitable for this area.

The clay for the solution should be medium fat. It should not have a strong odor, as this is a sign of the presence of organic impurities that cause cracks in the solution.

The absence of organic matter is also desirable for sand. This requirement is satisfied by mountain sand, as well as its cheaper replacement from ground brick scrap. The latter can be ceramic or fireclay. Since the chimney is built specifically from ceramic bricks, the same sand should be used.

In addition to the specified materials, you will need special purchased elements - a cleaning door, a valve and a cap. Gaps between brickwork and those installed in it metal products compacted using asbestos cord or basalt cardboard.

Tools

The most common tools will be used:

Master OK;
hammer-pick;
plumb line

You can’t do without a building level.

Preparatory work

If a main chimney is being built, then construction works you should start with the construction of a reinforced concrete foundation. Its minimum height is 30 cm, and the sole must be located below the freezing depth of the soil. The chimney foundation should not have a rigid connection with the foundation of the building, since both objects shrink differently.

Some craftsmen soak the brick before starting work. This makes sense, since when dry, the blocks will actively absorb water from the mortar and the masonry will be fragile. But you need to take into account that masonry made from brick that has been soaked takes quite a long time to dry, so choose a technique in accordance with the time of year and weather conditions - the brick should dry before the first frost.

The sand must be thoroughly cleaned of impurities by sifting through a sieve with a mesh size of 1x1 mm, and then washed. It is better to rub the clay through a sieve after soaking. The lime used must be slaked.

Solutions are prepared according to the following recipe:

Clay-sand: mix sand, fireclay and ordinary clay in a ratio of 4:1:1.
Limestone: sand, lime and M400 cement are combined in a ratio of 2.5: 1: 0.5.
Cement-sand: mix sand and cement grade M400 in a ratio of 3:1 or 4:1.

The clay is soaked for 12–14 hours, stirring from time to time and adding water if necessary. Then sand is added to it. The given recipe is designed for medium-fat clay, but it is advisable to check this parameter in advance in the following way:

Take 5 small portions of clay of the same mass.
Sand is added to 4 portions in amounts of 10, 25, 75 and 100% of the clay volume, and one is left in pure form. For obviously oily clay, the amount of sand in portions is 50, 100, 150 and 200%. Each of the test samples should be mixed until homogeneous, and then, by gradually adding water, turn into a solution with the consistency of a thick dough. A properly prepared mixture should not stick to your hands.
From each portion, make several balls with a diameter of 4–5 cm and the same number of plates with a thickness of 2 to 3 cm.
Next, they are dried for 10–12 days in a room with constant room temperature and without drafts.

The result is determined by considering the solution that satisfies two requirements as suitable for use:

products made from it do not crack after drying (this happens with high fat content);
Balls dropped from a height of 1 m do not crumble (this would indicate insufficient fat content).

The tested solution is prepared in sufficient volume (2-3 buckets are required for 100 bricks), and enough water is added so that the mixture slides off the trowel easily.

How to lay out a chimney with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

If the materials and tools are prepared, construction work can begin:

Approximately two rows to the ceiling they begin to lay out the fluff. If there are several channels in the chimney, then the bricks separating them should be partially recessed into one of the outer walls.
Lay out the first two rows especially carefully. They set the tone for the entire structure, so they must be perfectly even and strictly horizontal. If a mounted pipe is installed, then from the first rows it is built on a clay-sand mortar, which is applied in a layer 8–9 mm thick, and when the block is installed in place, it is compressed to a thickness of 6–7 mm.
Following the order, the neck of the chimney is erected. The seams must be tied so that the masonry does not crack into separate layers.
From the inside, the seams are rubbed with mortar (so that the inner surface of the chimney is as smooth as possible).
The duration of the fluffing is determined taking into account the expected settlement of the structures:

With each row, the wall thickness in the fluff increases by 30–35 mm. To do this, brick plates of different thicknesses are cut. So, for example, in the 1st row of fluff, in addition to whole blocks, the number of which has increased from 5 to 6, longitudinal and transverse halves (2 pieces each) and several quarters are used. Cut bricks must be laid so that the rough cut faces into the masonry and not into the smoke exhaust duct. The row of fluff, which will be flush with the overlap, must be isolated from wooden elements strips of asbestos or basalt cardboard. Next, they return to the original dimensions of the chimney - this will be the first row of the riser. At this stage, using a plumb line, you need to determine the projection of the chimney onto the roof and make a hole in it for it. In waterproofing and vapor barrier films They make not a hole, but a cross-shaped incision. After this, the resulting petals are bent in such a way that the functionality of this element is not impaired. The riser is laid out row by row, trying to make it absolutely vertical (controlled by a plumb line).

Formation of an otter

The riser ends in a row that extends half its height above the bottom edge of the hole in the roof. Those that are at the level of wooden rafters and sheathing must be insulated with asbestos or basalt strips.

The otter starts next. Like fluff, it gradually expands, but unevenly, taking into account the different heights of the edges of the hole in the roof. Next, the dimensions of the chimney return to their original values - the neck of the stove begins.

The last stage is the construction of a two-row head. The first row is made with a widening of 30–40 mm in all directions. Second row - by the usual scheme, while on the ledge of the bottom row it is laid out using concrete mortar inclined surface.

An umbrella is attached to the ledge of the head. The clearance between its bottom and the top of the head should be 150–200 mm.

If the roofing material is flammable and a solid fuel heat generator is connected to the chimney, a spark arrester (metal mesh) must be installed on the head.

The gap between the pipe and the roof must be sealed.

The “steps” of the otter are smoothed with a solution so that an inclined surface is formed, after which the entire outer part The chimney must be treated with a waterproofing compound.

Insulation of a brick chimney

Most cheap way insulation of a chimney - coating its surface with a solution based on lime and slag. First, a reinforcing mesh is attached to the chimney, then the solution is applied layer by layer, making the mixture thicker each time. The number of layers is from 3 to 5. As a result, the coating has a thickness of 40 mm.

After the plaster dries, cracks may appear on it that need to be covered. Next, the chimney is whitewashed with a solution of chalk or lime.

More expensive, but more effective option insulation is associated with the use basalt wool density 30–50 kg/m3. Since the walls of the chimney are flat, it is best to use this insulation in the form of hard slabs rather than soft panels (mats).

To install basalt wool on the chimney, you need to secure the metal profile frame with dowels. The insulation is placed in the frame, after which it can be fixed with a stretched nylon cord or screwed to brickwork special disc-shaped dowels with a large diameter head (to prevent pushing through the material).

A vapor-proof film is laid on top of the basalt wool (this heat insulator absorbs water well), and then plastered with ordinary cement-sand mortar over a reinforcing mesh or sheathed with tin (can be galvanized).

Installing the sleeve

Lining of the chimney is carried out in the following sequence:

In the boiler or furnace connection area, the chimney masonry is dismantled to a height sufficient to install the longest part of the steel liner. This is usually a condensate trap.
All elements of the liner (sleeve) are installed sequentially, starting from the top one. As installation progresses, the installed parts move upward, freeing up space for subsequent ones. Each element has hooks on which you can hook a rope passed through the top hole.
After installing the liner, the space between it and the walls of the chimney is filled with non-flammable heat insulator.

At the end, the opening in the chimney is bricked again.

Chimney cleaning

A layer of soot settling inside the chimney not only reduces its cross-section, but also increases the likelihood of a fire, since it can ignite. Sometimes it is even specially burned, but this method of cleaning is very dangerous. It is more correct to remove soot using a combination of two methods:

Mechanical involves the use of brushes and scrapers on long, extendable holders, as well as weights on a strong cord, which are passed into the chimney from above.
Chemical: a special product is burned in the firebox along with regular fuel, for example, “Log-chimney sweeper” (sold in hardware stores). It contains many substances - coal wax, ammonium sulfate, zinc chloride, etc. The gas released when this product burns forms a coating on the walls of the chimney that does not allow soot to subsequently stick to them.

The second method is used as a preventive measure.

Video: laying a brick pipe

At first sight, chimney seems to be an extremely simple design. However, at every stage of its construction - from the selection of materials to the installation of thermal insulation - a balanced and deliberate approach is required. By following the recommendations of experts, you can build a durable and safe structure that will last for many years.

This article will help you decide on the choice of a metal chimney for your stove. Pick up best option, for specific conditions and budget.

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Material selection

The material plays a huge role; the service life of the chimney, its ability to withstand various aggressive chemical compounds, reliability and strength depend on it. A steel chimney for a stove is made from three main materials: stainless steel, galvanized and ferrous metal. Now let's look at each material in detail.

Pipes can be made of either stainless steel or galvanized.

The first outer layer is represented by a pipe that can withstand prolonged exposure to adverse weather conditions and other destructive environmental factors.
The second layer consists of non-flammable thermal insulation, which ensures fire safety and the absence of condensation. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the quality of thermal insulation.
The inner layer is made of steel grades that are resistant to destructive smoke substances.

The choice must be made based on specific tasks, conditions and budget. To protect yourself and your property from possible fires, you should opt for a double-walled pipe; moreover, its service life is much longer than that of a regular one.

Methods for installing a metal chimney for a stove

A metal pipe for a stove can be installed in two ways: inside the smoke duct, and also along the outer wall of the house. Let's look at both options in more detail.

Inside the smoke channel

If a duct is built at home or it already exists from old heating equipment, then a single-walled steel pipe, which serves as a kind of sleeve. Having a perfectly even cross-section and smooth inner surface, it does not create resistance to exhaust flue gases.

The channel itself prevents the chimney from cooling sharply, and this helps reduce the formation of condensation and increase its service life. This installation is simpler, and the absence of long horizontal sections contributes to better traction.

Installation diagram metal pipe in the smoke channel

Outside of a house or building

Installation from the outside is more complex and costly, unlike the first option. For this method, a double-walled sandwich pipe is used, since the use of a single-walled one will still require mandatory insulation.

The assembly of such a chimney must be very reliable. Despite the light weight of such pipes, negligence in installing the chimney is unacceptable.

Installation diagrams

Installation requirements according to SNiP

Installation, design and assembly metal chimneys made in accordance with SNiP number 2.04.50-91, as well as according to the rules fire safety. Such responsible work should be carried out only by those individuals and organizations that have the appropriate permits. Work experience and knowledge of such organizations and individuals is of great importance.
The diameter must be selected and match the power of the furnace.
The height of the chimney must be at least 5 meters, regardless of the structure.
It must be mounted strictly vertically, and permissible deviations from the vertical axis should be no more than 30 degrees over a 2-meter area.
Horizontal sections longer than 1 meter should not be allowed, as this will lead to poor traction. The rise of the pipe in such areas should be at least 5 degrees.
To avoid possible leakage of condensate, pipe locks should be installed in the direction of condensate movement. The bottom of the top tube should fit inside the top of the bottom tube.
When assembling individual parts and elements, a special heat-resistant sealant rated for 1000 degrees must be used.
The joints are fastened with special ties or clamps; if such fastening is not provided, the joints should be fastened with self-tapping screws.
In order for it to be reliable, you need to carefully consider the issue of its fastening. It must be fastened in increments of at least 1.5 meters using reliable elements.
Special penetration elements should be used interfloor ceilings and roofs to ensure fire safety of buildings. Their interior must be filled with non-flammable, heat-insulating material.
When venting a metal chimney through the roof, a universal cut-out must be used.
For further inspection and cleaning, special inspection hatches and cleaning.
To prevent moisture from entering from the outside, fungi are installed. To avoid fire from sparks flying out of the pipe, spark arresters are installed.

Manufacturers

All of them have a very good reputation in the metal chimney market. Today they are the best and trusted manufacturers steel chimneys for furnaces:

Volcano,
Vesuvius,
Termofor,
Kraft,
Baltvent,
Rosinox,
Ferrum,
Elites,
Teplodar,
Sphere,
Phoenix,
Reference.

Conclusion

The use of steel chimneys for a stove, with proper calculation and installation, will ensure efficient operation for the entire period of operation of any heating device. Good technical characteristics and high safety of this type of chimney will make you feel comfortable and safe in your home.

They have a fairly affordable price, which is very pleasing. Today, they occupy one of the first places in application in construction. The main thing when purchasing is to make sure of the quality and reliability of the purchased chimney elements. Savings must be balanced and justified, because safety and health depend on it.

Homeowners, as a rule, take the organization of heating in their homes very seriously, choose the safest boiler models, and turn to experienced stove makers. However, what is sometimes overlooked is that incorrect chimney installation is often even more dangerous.

Chimney pipe – essential element heating system in a private house, the assembly of which is carried out in accordance with building codes and fire safety requirements. Installation of a chimney carried out without following these rules is fraught with irreversible consequences - a fire or carbon monoxide poisoning in the house. Today’s article will tell you about the types of chimneys, their design and installation methods.

The chimney pipe serves to transfer smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere; it starts from the inlet pipe of the heating device in the house and ends above the roof ridge with a protective umbrella. In private construction, the following types are mainly used:

The material from which the chimney is made can be selected correctly based on three factors: compliance with the material of the heating device, low thermal conductivity and tightness of the connections.

Chimney outlet methods

The main task of a chimney is to remove smoke outside the house, which can be organized in several ways. The choice of pipe insertion location depends on the location of the heating device, free space and type of chimney. Use the following options pipe placement:

External placement is well suited for the bulky design of a brick chimney, but if you lead a metal pipe through the wall, you will have to take care additional insulation or using special sandwich pipes.

Chimney requirements

The selection of elements is carried out taking into account the requirements technical characteristics heating device. In order for the system to operate smoothly, the basic principles of chimney design must be observed:

Preferred round form, since combustion products and dust accumulate in the corners of the pipe. Round chimneys require cleaning less often than rectangular and square ones.
The cross-section of the pipe should not be less than the diameter of the heating device pipe. It is calculated that for every kilowatt of power, 8 square meters are required to ensure the proper level of thrust. cm sections. Usually information about required size the chimney is contained in the instructions for the heating device.
Each heating device requires the installation of its own chimney. In some cases, you can deviate from this rule, but then the devices must be located at a different height, the distance between the connection points is 1 m or more. And the size of the pipe cross-section should take into account the total power of the heat generators.
The total length of the horizontal sections of the chimney cannot exceed 1 m; violation of this rule reduces the draft force.
The chimney ends 0.5-1.5 m above the ridge, at flat roof– 0.5 m above the surface.

The main criterion for selecting pipes is fire safety requirements and compliance with the heat-generating device, appearance, aesthetics and saving space inside the house are secondary.

Installation sequence

Installation of an internal chimney begins with drawing up a diagram and calculation required quantity pipe segments. To assemble correctly, the device is performed in the following order:

Scheme of the chimney outlet through the corrugated roof

After installation is completed, it is necessary to start the heating system, check the draft and tightness of the connections - even a small amount of smoke indicates serious problems, the solution of which is unsafe to postpone.

Installing a chimney in a house is a responsible undertaking, the quality of which determines the comfort and safety of operation of the heating system, so follow the manufacturers’ recommendations and installation technology.

Video instruction

Having decided to install (or fold) a stove in your home, you must immediately carefully consider several main points, because the pipe for the stove must be safe and fully cope with the tasks assigned to it: remove combustion products of the fuel used from the stove and generate draft.

Type of pipes

It would be advisable to take care of this problem at the stage of creating a house project. But if the idea of installing a stove in any building came to your mind later, you will have to make changes to the already erected structures. In this case, the chimney must:

be direct;
do not pass too close to flammable structures;
be made of non-flammable material.

All chimneys are usually divided into several types:

mounted - they rest on the stove itself,
wall - they are built into the walls of the house,
indigenous - have their own separate foundation.

Pipe material

There are four non-combustible options to choose from what the pipe for the furnace will be made of - brick, metal (steel), concrete or modules with ceramic cores.

Most often, stove owners still prefer to install brick pipes, which in turn consist of the following elements:

neck is the part of the pipe between the furnace body and the groove in the thickness of the ceiling;
cutting - thickening the pipe in the body of the ceiling;
a riser is a pipe located in the attic space;
cutting near the roof (also called “otter”);
pipe head.

For the pipe you will only have to use a special quality brick, intended for laying heated structures. The solution on which it will be laid must also be heat-resistant and plastic.

Note! If the stove pipe is made only of brick, then you will soon be faced with the problem of having to clean it frequently. The fact is that inside a brick pipe there will be many irregularities on which soot will stick. This can be avoided by making a double pipe for the stove - inserting it inside brick pipe a pipe made of a different material (“sleeve”).

Size

The cross-sectional size of the chimney flue depends on two factors:

depending on the type of oven,
from the heat transfer of the furnace.

For example, for a pipe with heat transfer up to 3000 kcal/hour, it is necessary to make a pipe with a cross section of ½ by ½ brick; and for a pipe with heat transfer from 3000 to 4500 kcal/hour - ½ by ¾ brick.

Brickwork

If you are laying a brick oven yourself, then you will definitely have diagrams (orders) on hand. These diagrams usually also contain information about the chimney. You will only have to in the right place make cuts that prevent heating of combustible elements located in close proximity to the pipe, thereby eliminating the occurrence of a fire for this reason.

Modular chimney option

Note! The convenience of ready-made modules is that you do not have to spend too much time building such a pipe. In addition, the finished modules already have a safe wall thickness, so all you have to do is make (or provide in advance) holes in the ceiling and roof for the pipe.

The modules are installed as follows:

Purchase a special dry mixture for fastening modules, which is recommended by module manufacturers.
Dilute 1 bucket of solution from the mixture and water, strictly following the proportions that you find on the package (stir the solution until smooth using the “mixer” attachment on a drill).
Cut the asbestos cement pad to the size of the module.
Place it on your existing stove in the place where the chimney will be located.
Apply the first layer of solution on top of it.
Install the first module. Check its verticality with a building level.
Lay the layer of mortar again and install the next module.
Repeat all operations until the pipe extends beyond the roof to the height you require.
Insulate the junction of the pipe to roofing material and install a structure on top of the pipe to protect it from rainwater.

Note! You can use ready-made modules if you purchased a factory-made stove or fireplace, since you cannot lay a brick pipe and rest it on the stove (fireplace), because its weight is not provided for by the design and can lead to destruction of the stove.

Metal pipe

Another pipe option is metal structure made of heat-resistant steel, which extends from the stove, passes through the wall and rises above the roof level outside the house. In this case, the place requiring special attention, is the passage of the pipe through the wall and its good insulation.

You should not make such a pipe yourself - it is better to buy it ready-made along with fasteners (clamps), thanks to which you will achieve its complete tightness.

Video

We invite you to watch video instructions on how to build a multi-channel chimney for a gas boiler: