What you need to know about installing a split system
Problem: The main difficulty faced by the buyer of a split system is the problem correct installation. Installation determines 90% of the quality and service life of the air conditioner. If errors are made during installation, it is very difficult to correct them later.
Solution: Installation must be carried out by specialists licensed to install air conditioners, in compliance with the instructions and using special equipment. After installation, there should be no debris, dust, or boxes left in the room. The word “air conditioning” has taken root only in our country. This is actually a piece of the phrase air-condition, which translated from English means “condition of the air.” The air conditioner serves to maintain desired temperature and indoor humidity. By ventilating the air, the air conditioner cleans it by passing the air flow through special filters.
Today we will talk about installing a more modern type of air conditioning system - a split system. What are the advantages of a split system over a “regular” air conditioner? The split system does not block natural light, like a “window” that is cut into the window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the general air conditioning system of the house, if there is one (this is when one hefty unit stands somewhere in the basement and circulates air throughout the house). And it differs from a “regular” air conditioner in that it consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two indoor units, then this is already called a “multi-split system”.
But let’s agree: for simplicity of presentation, I will talk about the split system, calling it the word “air conditioner” that is more familiar to our ears.
Communications (in the groove)
Drainage (in the groove)
Sewerage
Electrical wiring - to the panel (in the groove)
Hole in the wall, punched at an angle of 1–3°
The first stage of installing a split system: separate electrical wiring is carried out
Any, even low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner must have separate electrical wiring and a separate circuit breaker installed in the electrical panel. Because the old one may not withstand the load and, God forbid, will catch fire. If specialist installers install separate wiring for the air conditioner, the possibility of a fire is reduced to almost zero.
Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring, alas, is not designed to withstand the loads caused by the use of powerful electrical equipment. Installers remember a case when the owner of an apartment was forced to replace all the wiring because of the air conditioner: the old one simply could not stand it and constantly knocked out the plugs.
The second stage of installing a split system: installation of the outdoor unit
To do this, installers drill holes for brackets, onto which they then install the external unit.
If you place it on an open balcony, then there are no problems: you attach it with bolts, the breeze blows through it - and everything is in order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break). If you want to attach the block to the wall, then you cannot do without durable brackets. Moreover, they must withstand a weight several times greater than the weight of the block. On high floors The “outdoor” is mounted with a sliding ladder. Or they call climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such calls are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes both equipment in the form of a machine with a fire escape-boom and a climber are required.
If you live on upper floors, That outdoor unit can be placed on the roof. But keep in mind that the difference between the indoor and outdoor units in height should not exceed 3–20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).
If your apartment is located on the ground floor, I strongly recommend hanging the external unit higher than 1.8–2 meters above the ground and “hide” it in a cage. Or they might steal it. At one of the companies they told us a story. A man came and ordered only an external unit. The managers were surprised: “Why don’t you want a complete split system.” “Yes, I have an air conditioner inside, but the outer “box” was cut off yesterday. On the first floor, under the hanging." Regardless of the height at which the external unit is “screwed”, you need to make a metal canopy over it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in their path.
In general, installing an external unit is a responsible undertaking. If it is loosely secured, it might fall... on someone. During the warranty period, the company that installed the air conditioner is responsible for the consequences of this. And then you will answer for yourself.
What cannot be done with the external (outdoor) unit?
There are space restrictions for installing an external unit:
The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be strong (otherwise it may collapse under the weight of the block) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
Do not bend the tubes with refrigerant (freon) several times in a small area and unscrew their connections (this will lead to refrigerant leakage). If the tubes are twisted into a ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, then it will be more difficult for the compressor to pump freon.
The third stage of installing a split system: installing the indoor unit
Air conditioner control panel
Installers fasten special brackets with screws to the wall (if the block is wall-mounted) or the ceiling (if the block is ceiling-mounted) and install the blocks on them. After this, be sure to check the strength of the fastening (is the structure wobbly? Does it vibrate when the air conditioner is turned on?). Otherwise, sooner or later the entire structure may simply collapse on your head.
But for the floor block special fasteners not required. He, as they say, “will stand on foot.” You just need to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, make sure that the unit does not blow on the curtains or the wall and is located away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, after all communications have been laid, it can no longer be moved from place to place.
So, indoor unit cannot be installed:
...above a heat source (for example, a radiator). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work on cooling “until it loses its pulse” and will very quickly fail. Imagine that you opened the door of the refrigerator, and it will cool not only the camera, but the entire room. It will “work” and fail by the end of the day. The same thing will happen with the air conditioner. In addition, the heat emanating from the room battery can cause the plastic housing of the unit to become deformed.
...in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly operating (for example, a drill, drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can knock down the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
...directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger of constantly catching a cold or, worse, getting pneumonia.
...where air circulation will be difficult, for example, behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which maintains the set temperature automatically, will fail. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back at the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate has been set and will turn off. This is exactly what happened to my friends. Their air conditioner constantly got tangled in the curtains and turned off before it could bring the room temperature to the set temperature. I had to call specialists and reinstall the system.
...with a skew - then water (condensation) will flow out of it onto the floor, which, according to the installation rules, must be discharged through a drainage pipe into a special tank (see our certificate on drainage).
The fourth stage of installing a split system: gating walls or floors
In order to connect electrical wires and freon tubes between air conditioner units, installers punch gutters in the walls or ceiling (or, as the installers say, you need to “drill the line”). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to “drill”, for example, not the walls, but the floor of the apartment.
Don't want to dabble? Then you can hide the wires in decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the boxes are hidden under the baseboard). But before doing this, installers will need to connect two copper pipes (for the refrigerant) and the “ends” of the wiring between the outdoor and indoor units. Make sure the installers do this using the connecting fittings. And a “waterproofing cup” with a connecting hose was placed into a pre-punched hole in the outer wall. 
After this, they must carry out the so-called vacuumization of communications, and always within 50 minutes (it is during this time that “extra” air and moisture will come out of the communications). This manipulation must be done using special equipment.
Please keep in mind that, as a rule, a separate hidden line is made for the drainage pipe (in the wall or under the floor).
The fifth stage of installing a split system: checking the operation of the system using a special program
At this stage, installers must turn on the split system (air conditioner) by setting it to the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, then everything is in order. The work is almost finished. By the way, we recommend that you independently conduct such a check of the system’s operation every year (using the same test program).
The sixth stage of installing a split system: garbage collection
I must warn you: laying the main line and other installation procedures involve dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will arrive with special tools (including a metal detector to examine walls for fittings and hidden communications).
In addition, installers should have a vacuum cleaner and other cleaning equipment. With their help, after finishing the work, they must remove all the garbage themselves. If installers try to dodge “dirty” work, strictly demand that “cleaning up the area” is included in the payment for installing an air conditioner. In addition, you can enter into an agreement with a reputable company for preventive maintenance of the split system. Then you won’t have to risk your life, leaning waist-deep out of the window, to clean the outdoor unit with a vacuum cleaner or call climbers at your own expense. When concluding such an agreement (it includes warranty repair), of course, you will have to pay a certain amount, but believe me, it’s worth it. By the way, we hasten to announce a pleasant detail: the Meteomarket company, which sells Japanese Daikin air conditioners, will replace your air conditioner with a new one free of charge after the three-year term of the service contract. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit, you can not change it for 20 years. The company guarantees its uninterrupted, good operation. By the way, in the well-known building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners have been installed since the days of the “corn secretary general” Nikita Khrushchev and are still working properly.
The outdoor unit must be regularly cleaned of dust and dirt. A particularly difficult period for the outdoor unit is the time of flowering of poplars. The fluff instantly clogs the filters, and the air conditioner (if it is not cleaned right away) breaks down. Of course, you can clean it with a vacuum cleaner if you are not afraid of heights. But it’s better not to risk it and call the “air conditioner rescue service” - that is, a service company.
At temperatures below –15°C, the air conditioner may refuse to work “heat”, and then low-temperature equipment (heat pump, compressor heater and even drain tube heater) will be needed. By the way, some models already have these devices included.
How to install a split system yourself
It's about self-installation split systems with wall-mounted indoor unit.
So, you need to do separate wiring first, even if the air conditioner you are installing is low power. Plus, it is necessary to install a separate machine in the panel. At this stage, I strongly recommend using the services of professional electricians.
Next, we install the split system ourselves, or rather, we begin the installation of the outdoor unit. To do this, you first need to drill holes for the brackets on the wall of the house. Please note that when placing the external unit on the wall, you should play it safe and buy brackets designed to carry a greater weight than the unit.
Also, you should remember that when installing an external unit, you need to be especially careful with the refrigerant pipes - you must not allow them to bend, and twisting them into a ring with a diameter of less than 10 cm will lead to poor pumping of freon.
Now we install the internal unit of the split system - we attach the wall or ceiling brackets ourselves (depending on the type of unit). We follow the installation rules:
It is strictly forbidden to install the indoor unit of a split system above heat sources (for example, above a radiator)
It is unacceptable to install the unit near various objects that could become an obstacle to the air flow, disrupting its recirculation; the fact is that the air conditioner will receive unreliable information about the air temperature in the room and will begin to operate in a mode other than programmed
installing a split system near sources of electromagnetic vibrations can lead to malfunction of the air conditioner itself
Well, and the last thing - I think this is not new, but you should not install the indoor unit in close proximity to your work desk, bed and resting place - this can contribute to hypothermia of the body, which will lead you to a permanent cold.
The final stage is to test the installed air conditioner using a test program (since we install the split system ourselves, we will have to check it ourselves).
Okay, now it's clean household tips How to install a split system yourself:
if your home is located on the ground floor, then install the external unit at a height of at least 2 meters, and also try to hide it behind bars, so that lovers of easy money will not be tempted to quickly steal it
Please note that most budget split systems practically do not work “for heat” at temperatures below “-15” degrees and then you will have to retrofit your air conditioner with a compressor heater, a heat pump and a drain tube heater.
If you have any questions, please contact us, together we will try to figure it out and understand how to install a split system ourselves and remain alive and unharmed :-)
Processed
Installing an air conditioner is a rather complex undertaking that requires, if not experience in carrying out such work, then at least thorough theoretical training. In more than half of the cases, problems with air conditioning appear due to incorrect installation and errors during the system connection process. Even the most expensive and modern device will not be able to fully realize its potential if its installation is carried out in violation of technology.
A traditional split system includes an external unit, which is placed outside the window, and an internal unit. In some cases, more than 1 block is installed. Such combinations are known as multi-split systems.
Each element of the system performs its own functions. So, the outdoor unit is responsible for condensation, while the indoor unit performs the functions of an evaporator. The blocks are connected using a backbone of tubes and wires. Freon circulates through the tubes. The system also includes a drainage tube. It is connected to the outdoor unit. It is responsible for removing moisture that condenses during operation of the installation. According to the rules, this tube must be connected to the sewer system.
Air conditioning systems are available for sale to suit every taste and requirement. However, in terms of their composition and connection technology, they are practically no different from each other.
Before you begin installing the blocks, you need to decide on a number of important points.
- First, decide on the side of the world that the capacitor unit will face.
- Secondly, you need to establish the material from which the walls of the house are made. In accordance with this point, suitable fasteners will be selected. Additionally, certain changes in the system installation process are made by the weight of the blocks.
It is important to ensure normal access to the units to carry out preventive maintenance and repair activities. The outdoor unit must be protected from atmospheric precipitation, icing and other adverse effects.
When choosing the power of a future split system, take into account the operational and other important characteristics of the home. First of all, take into account the orientation of the apartment or house to the cardinal points. Also important has the number of people inhabiting the home, the total power of electrical appliances, the number of heating radiators, the presence of other ventilation systems and devices.
Before proceeding with the installation of the outdoor unit, you need to make sure that the strength of the balcony railing or wall is sufficient to support the weight of the product. The most powerful models weigh up to 60 kg or even more. On average, household outdoor units weigh 10-15 kg and usually no problems arise with their placement. The wall and all fasteners used must have a minimum of two times the strength factor.
If there is external insulation, be sure to ensure that the brackets are not attached to the thermal insulation, but directly to the wall material.
Quite often, aerated concrete is used in modern housing construction. This is an excellent material with high thermal insulation properties, however, unfortunately, it cannot boast of great strength. If the external walls of your house are built specifically from aerated concrete, you should refrain from installing the air conditioner directly on the wall.
It is not recommended to hang the block on a ventilated façade., because During its operation, quite strong vibration and noise can be created. In the situations described, the unit should be installed using a special damping seal, which is pre-fixed to the wall. The air conditioner itself rarely produces noise more than 25-30 dB, so in houses with walls made of a material denser than aerated concrete, no inconvenience usually occurs.
Any distortions when installing the external unit are unacceptable. At each stage of installation, you need to check the horizontal installation of the product using a building level. Deviations from the horizontal will lead to disruption of the circulation of freon or other refrigerant used.
If possible, the air conditioner should be installed in a place where the wind blows from all sides, but at the same time it is protected from precipitation and other negative influences. The best option is to place the unit under a pre-installed canopy or at least on the balcony. Residents of the upper floors apartment buildings can install an outdoor air conditioner unit on the roof. It is only important to ensure that the main length does not exceed 15-20 m in total. Otherwise, there will be significant losses of cold in the system, and the air conditioner will consume electricity in vain.
Take care of proper arrangement drainage of condensed moisture. Regulations require that this pipe be connected to a sewer. However, this requirement is almost never met, and the moisture simply drips onto the ground under the window. In such a situation, you need to at least make sure that water does not drip on passers-by.
The rules require that the distance between the outdoor unit and the wall surface be at least 10 cm. The problem is that the compressor must have sufficient airflow from all sides. If you install it closer than 10 cm to the wall, in summer the airflow will be insufficient, which will lead to damage to the unit.
Installing an outdoor unit is associated with a certain danger, because... it's still high-altitude work. Therefore, installation can only be carried out if you have the necessary insurance, or it is better to completely entrust it to professional installers.
Installation procedure for the indoor unit
Inside the premises, the corresponding unit is installed and the pipeline is laid. Special attention should be paid to the process of arranging electrical wiring. Household air conditioners consume about 2 kW of electricity or more. First make sure that the wiring in your apartment or house can withstand such a load. If she is not capable of this, lay an individual line from the shield with a separate fuse. This will protect the wiring from overheating and your property from fire.
Lay the line from the external unit of the air conditioning system to the location of the indoor unit. The line can be laid outside or inside. When installed externally, it is hidden in a plastic box, but in accordance with internal installation, the line must be recessed into the wall.
Be careful when choosing a place to place the indoor unit. The further the blocks are removed from each other, the less efficient the system will be and the higher the energy losses will be.
The indoor unit must be placed so that there are no objects near it that could interfere with the normal flow of cooled air. Appliances, curtains and other objects that are at the same height as the unit must be at least 3 m away from it.
The unit must not be placed directly above a heating radiator. The installation location must be such that the installation can be easily accessed for repair and maintenance work. The distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 20-25 cm. It is not recommended to install the air conditioner above appliances and furniture.
The air conditioner must be installed so that the cold air produced during operation does not blow directly on a person. Otherwise, bronchitis and sore throats will not take long to appear.
The indoor unit may have a wall or ceiling structure. The latter are extremely rare. However, regardless of the type of system, it is necessary to ensure the most correct and reliable fastening. Installation is carried out using brackets and screws. Brackets must be checked for strength.
After connecting the outdoor and indoor units, it is necessary to remove moisture and air from the line. This process is known as vacuumization. Special equipment is used to pump out air and water.
Do-it-yourself air conditioner connection sequence
Air conditioner installation is carried out in several stages. First, the electrical wiring is laid. Further the external unit of the system is installed. The technology requires that it be placed at a height of at least 180-200 cm from ground level. This requirement is relevant for owners of private houses and residents of apartments located on the ground floor.
In the outer wall holes are drilled for laying communications. The diameter of these holes should be 500-600 mm. Brackets are installed to ensure the block is secured. A special waterproofing cup is inserted into the prepared hole and the connecting lines are laid directly.
Next you need install the indoor unit. Maximum permissible distance between these two elements is 20 m. The optimal distance is considered to be 7-12 m. Specific recommendations are given in the instructions for the equipment; be sure to study it before installation. Install the brackets and secure the indoor unit of the air conditioning system.
At the end, all that remains is to lay the wires that will ensure the functioning of the system. Mount the box. It, as already noted, can be internal or external. Connect the electrical wires and freon tubes. Evacuate the system. Special equipment is used for this. The procedure itself lasts on average 45-60 minutes.
After the vacuum is completed, perform a test run of the air conditioner. Professionals at this stage use special software and hardware equipment. If it is absent, at least observe the operation of the system and the state of the electrical network for some time.
Basic connection errors and their elimination
Mistakes made during the installation of an air conditioner lead to many different troubles. However, the services of professional installers are becoming more expensive every year and everything larger number In an attempt to save money, people try to install air conditioning themselves. This, as already noted, is a rather complex and very responsible job, which has many features and requires taking into account a wide variety of nuances.
- One of the most common mistakes is laying pipes with unacceptable and/or repeated kinks. Because of this, the load on the compressor will increase, which will not have the most favorable effect on the operation of the system.
- The external unit cannot be installed on glassed balcony. Previously, recommendations were given for its installation in this room, but they are relevant only for unglazed balconies. It is important that normal air circulation is maintained and the unit is blown from all sides.
- The air conditioner should not be installed where any kind of installation that generates high-frequency electromagnetic waves is operating. Such equipment includes various welders, machines, etc.
- It is important to maintain maximum evenness of the installation of the blocks. If this rule is violated, the resulting condensation will simply drain onto the floor, which will cause a lot of inconvenience. As already noted, the air conditioner cannot be installed directly above the radiators.
If these and any other errors were made and led to undesirable consequences, appropriate measures must be taken to correct the violations. If there is a draft from the air conditioner, it is usually enough to change the direction of air flow by adjusting the dampers.
When the system is turned on in heating mode, ice is often detected on the external unit. The reason for this phenomenon is usually that the system does not have an automatic defrost function. To remove ice, it is enough to turn on the equipment for a while to cool. The air conditioner will heat up and the ice will disappear.
If your air conditioner stops cooling properly, you need to check the filters. They require regular cleaning. Detailed recommendations on this matter are usually given in the instructions.
If water begins to drip from the indoor unit, the cause of this problem in most cases is a severely clogged drainage channel. Ice plugs that form also lead to this. It is impossible to eliminate this kind of blockage on your own without the necessary skills. It is recommended to urgently call a technician who can properly warm up the system and correct the situation.
Uncharacteristic noises during system operation usually indicate an imbalance of the fan or severe wear of the bearings. This problem can also be dealt with only by a qualified technician.
If you find that the air conditioner has begun to overheat, you should call a technician to check the freon level and the tightness of the system.
Thus, installing and connecting an air conditioner yourself is a completely feasible job. But you need to be prepared in advance for the fact that this event is not easy. Follow the instructions in everything and promptly eliminate any problems that arise. Then the air conditioner will serve as long as possible, fully performing all the tasks assigned to it.
Good luck!
Video - How to install an air conditioner yourself
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Split systems provide coolness in the hot season, normalize the microclimate and purify the air. The high cost of installation work encourages you to start connecting climate control equipment yourself. Sequential installation of a powerful air conditioner, done by yourself, is possible only if you comply with step by step instructions and standards.
Selecting a location
The presence of two or more units of climate control equipment requires choosing a location for each of them. Before starting installation work, you will need accompanying documentation.
Do I need permission to install an air conditioner?
Structurally, the air conditioner is a system with an indoor and outdoor unit, which is mounted on the facade.
Multi-storey building, on the basis of Art. 246 of the Civil Code is common property with the right of disposal by all owners. Installation of equipment without approval is a violation:
- the device makes noise, buzzes, disturbing the peace of the neighbors;
- condensation can damage the façade of the building or get onto the balcony below;
- the overall block blocks the view or view and windows;
- There are risks of wall cracking, wiring shorting and fire.
Based on paragraph 1 of Art. 25 LCD installation of a split system is considered as a reconstruction or re-equipment of the premises. Clause 3.5.8 of Resolution No. 170 states that it is prohibited to install an air conditioner without permission from the management company and neighbors. Consent or refusal can only be obtained after a meeting of the residents of the house.
Important! Residents of private homes can begin installation immediately after purchasing the device.
Permission is required if:
- installation work is carried out on the front part of the high-rise building;
- the user lives in a house that is valuable from a historical and cultural point of view;
- the split system is located above the pedestrian paths;
- on window opening where the block is located, there are no special fences.
Choosing a location for the indoor unit
Installation of the internal air conditioner module is carried out with your own hands so that cold air flows do not cause discomfort. It can be placed above the head of the sofa, on the side and behind the workplace. Construction regulations define the order of location of the indoor unit:
- from the structure to the ceiling - at least 15 cm;
- from the module to the right or left wall - at least 30 cm;
- from the block to the floor - 280 cm, but for apartments on the ground floor the external block is mounted at the same level or lower than the internal one;
- from obstacles to the movement of air flows - no less than 150 cm;
Where to locate the outdoor unit?
The outdoor module is placed near a window opening or on an open loggia. If the balcony is glazed, the block is placed on a fence with good bearing capacity or on the facade. Residents of the 1-2 floors need to determine a place for the outdoor module as far as possible from passers-by. On the 3rd or more floors, it is allowed to place the device under a window or on the side.
In a private house, the outdoor unit is placed on a wall with high load-bearing capacity. On ventilated facades, a special fastening is organized or the block is placed on the plinth.
Determining the distance between blocks
The maximum length of the intermodule route is 6 m; if it is exceeded, additional freon injection will be required. If the external and internal modules are placed at a distance of 1 m, the route should not exceed 5 m. The excess of the system is formed into a ring and placed behind the block.
Interesting to know! Manufacturers indicate different maximum distances between blocks. For Daikin equipment it is 1.5-2.5 m, for Panasonic - 3 m.
What you need for installation
Consistent installation of a good split system when doing it yourself should be carried out taking into account ease of access during maintenance and ergonomic criteria - cold air should not have direct access to resting and working areas.
Approximate layout of split systems
The appropriate layout for installing a new air conditioner depends on the type of unit. The indoor module can be hung:
- to the left of the outside. The track is flat, the block is located 0.5 m from the wall. When turning the line to next wall the distance can be reduced to 0.1 m. The output and the route are masked under the cover of the equipment;
- on the left of external wall without laying cables on the facade. Communications are laid in the corner of the room and hidden in a box. They hide him under the curtain;
- to the right of the outer wall. A typical solution involves laying the route in a box from the wall or laying it in a groove.
The outdoor unit can be positioned:
- on the loggia or balcony. The module is fixed frontally or sideways for ease of maintenance;
- on the glazed balcony. The window sash should be above the air conditioner. To prevent snow, moisture or debris from getting on the block, install a visor and plastic;
- under the window. This option is suitable for rooms without a balcony;
- next to the window. The block is placed at the level of the bottom of the window.
Air conditioner installation options
Advice! Do not use hollow or metal materials for the visor - they have low noise insulation.
Equipment
At self-installation climate control equipment will be needed:
- perforator for making through holes for the output of pipes, cables, drainage pipes;
- pipe cutter with sharp blade or a hacksaw for metal;
- file and rimmer for trimming nicks;
- a pipe bender or a special spring for forming copper pipes;
- a drill with drills of different diameters to make holes for the mounting plates;
- pipe calibrator and flarer;
- wall chaser, which can be replaced with a chisel, sledgehammer and hammer;
- Vacuum pump to start the air conditioning system;
- screwdrivers, hex wrenches, level.
Materials and consumables
Use only high-quality materials, selecting them in accordance with the type of equipment:
- supply wire for power supply and connection of modules - power cable for 4 cores with a cross-section of 2 mm2 × 2.5 mm2;
- seamless copper pipes with the diameter specified in the instructions. The length of the products is equal to the length of the route, and the margin is about 30 cm;
- insulating insulation (foamed rubber) - sections along the length of the route;
- synthetic insulation;
- corrugated hose with an internal plastic spiral for drainage or propylene pipe along the length of the route plus 80 cm;
- L-shaped brackets (2 pcs.) for fixing the outdoor unit with a permissible load limit of 5 times the weight of the device;
- fastening elements - bolts, dowels and anchors, selected according to the type of brackets for the internal module.
Basic rules for installing and connecting an air conditioner
Installation and connection of a household air conditioner when doing it yourself requires compliance with a number of requirements.
Rules for installing the outdoor unit
The module is configured as follows:
- Checking a balcony or facade for strength is 2 times more equipment, which weighs from 10-15 to 40 kg.
- Inspection of brackets on external insulation - they must be hidden in the wall material.
- Laying a damping seal on a ventilated facade or aerated concrete walls.
- Consideration of equipment noise - extremely permissible level ranges from 25 to 30 dB.
- Check for distortions at each stage of installation to prevent refrigerant leakage.
- Installation in a windy area with a canopy for protection from bad weather.
- Maintain a line distance of 15-20 cm if the equipment is located on the roof.
- Connecting the condensate collection pipe to the sewer.
Rules for installing the indoor unit
A second module is installed in the room and a line is laid:
- Connection to the electrical network with the organization of an individual line - the energy consumption of the air conditioner is 2 kW.
- Laying the main line externally (hidden in a box) or internally (hidden in a wall) methods.
- Maintain a distance between blocks of a maximum of 6 m for efficient operation of the structure.
- Removing household appliances, curtains from the device by 3 m.
- The air conditioner is not located above radiators or furniture.
- Maintain a distance of 20-25 cm from the block to the ceiling.
Installing an air conditioner yourself
Correct installation of a powerful split system will be done with high quality by yourself if you follow the sequential work instructions.
Installation of the indoor unit
The internal module or hair dryer is installed immediately. Installation activities include:
- Taking measurements from the device.
- Place the steel mounting frame on the wall strictly horizontally, checking with a level.
- Marking the points where the fasteners will be.
- Making holes in the wall with a hammer drill.
- Fixing plastic dowels with a hammer.
- Application mounting panel to the wall and fixing it with self-tapping screws.
- Hanging the hair dryer on a special plate and checking that it is horizontal.
Laying a communication line
Experts advise users who do not know how to properly connect a household air conditioner without making mistakes with their own hands, to start by preparing the main channels.
Electrical connections
High energy consumption of split systems (more than 1.5 kW) requires the organization of a separate line and the installation of an RCD. For the main line, a cable with a cross-section of 1.5-2 mm2 and automatic shutdowns are used. A yellow cable with a green stripe running along it is connected to the neutral (zero) wire of the input panel. Using the indicator, zero and phase are determined. If non-standard wires are used, neutral and phase sections are marked at both ends.
Air conditioner connection diagram 
Installation diagram
Holes
It is better to carry out the work together:
- V block houses the locations for laying the reinforcement are determined so as not to harm the load-bearing walls;
- the assistant should be below and report on the installation;
- holes are drilled using a hammer drill;
- for houses without thermal insulation, the diameter is 50-60 mm, for thermally insulated buildings - at least 80 mm.
After preparing the holes, you need to install the brackets.
Pipelines
For preparation and installation you will need:
- Cut the copper pipe with a margin of 1 m for bends.
- After cutting, carefully bend the product without kinks, observing the maximum radius of 10 cm.
- Place flexible thermal insulation on the tubes - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber should not be used due to rapid wear.
- Place special flanges on the end of the pipe with threads.
- Flare the ends of the tubes.
- Connect the pipeline, cold and hot fittings one by one, checking their diameter.
- Tighten the fitting flange firmly, but not too tightly.
- Make a drainage channel from a section of reinforced plastic pipe, connecting it to the drain with a flange or heat-shrinkable pipe.
- Make a solder by working the soldering iron in a circle.
Outdoor unit installation
The external module of the split system weighs more than 20 kg due to the compressor. Work at height is carried out with the involvement of 1-2 people:
- Marking is organized using a level.
- Holes are made using a hammer drill, taking into account the thermal insulation of the house.
- Anchor bolts are screwed into the holes.
- The brackets are screwed with a nut to the bolts.
- To reduce vibrations, rubber is placed under the feet of the outdoor module.
- The quality of the fasteners is checked and the external module is hung.
Connecting system units
The blocks are connected through channels in the wall with the cable connected to terminals similar to the color of the main wiring. If the level difference between the modules is more than 5 m, a special loop is made to catch the oil. If the difference is smaller, the loop is not performed.
Drainage
Drainage channels are equipped with a discharge to the street or to the sewer. The pipes are connected as follows:
- A corrugation is pulled onto the outlet of the indoor unit (a plastic tube with a tip).
- The connection is secured with a clamp.
- A hose is attached to the outlet of the outdoor unit to remove moisture from the walls.
- When using a polymer pipe, an adapter is selected.
Drainage pipes must be laid with a slope. The maximum is 3 mm*1 m, the minimum is 1 mm*1 m.
Freon circulation system
Copper refrigerant tubes are bent using a pipe bender or a spring without sharp turns. The connection begins with the indoor unit - the nuts are unscrewed from the ports. As they weaken, the hissing of nitrogen is heard. After it stops, remove the plugs, remove the nuts, put them on the tube and begin rolling.
Rolling
After removing the plugs from the tubes:
- The evenness of the edges is checked.
- The jags are smoothed out with sandpaper.
- The cross section is adjusted using a calibrator and the edges are aligned by 5 cm.
- The extreme parts are flared for fastening at the inlet and outlet.
- During flaring, the edge of the pipe is directed downward and fixed with a 2 mm exit.
- The flaring cone is placed on the edge of the pipe and tightened with force.
- Rolling ends when the cone does not pass into the edge.
The operation is repeated for all segments.
Port connection
The flared end of the tube is connected to the outlet, and the nut is tightened. No sealants or additional gaskets are used. For a strong fixation, you will need a pressure of 50-70 kg so that the copper is flattened and the connection becomes monolithic. Work is being done for all exits.
Leak test
A solution is used for sealing. You will need 0.5 liters of distilled water, heated to boiling water. Dissolve 1 tbsp in liquid. l. laundry soap. The outlet nipple is removed and a bicycle pump is put on the pipe. When pumping, the compound is applied with a brush, and the thread is tightened until bubbles stop forming by 1/8.
Important! It is better to remove soap scum with a damp cloth.
Vacuuming
Vacuuming helps remove moisture, dust, and excess air. The system is pumped with a special pump for 60 minutes. During this time, moisture and remaining air are completely removed.
Filling and watering
The system is filled from a cylinder with refrigerant. The reservoir is connected via a pressure gauge with an adapter. The pressure is injected to the value specified in the manufacturer's documentation. Electric wires connected via terminals - zero to zero or neutral. Phase ones are connected by color.
Important! Air conditioners with refrigerant are not filled with freon and vice versa.
Testing
The check is carried out as follows:
- The circuit breaker turns on.
- The air conditioner goes into test mode automatically.
- For some models, the test is activated from the remote control.
- If air flows at the end of the test, the position of the blinds is set.
- Thermal shielding is performed with thin aluminum - this saves 2-3% more electricity.
- The harness and drainage pipe are wrapped with insulating tape that is resistant to moisture.
On last stage holes in the wall are carefully sealed.
Common mistakes during air conditioner installation
With unprofessional installation, users can make a number of mistakes:
- laying pipes with kinks - increases the load on the compressor;
- installing an external unit on a balcony with glazing - normal air circulation is lost;
- location of the air conditioner next to welding machines;
- uneven arrangement of blocks - condensation begins to flow onto the floor;
- choosing equipment that does not have an auto-defrost option - in heating mode, the external unit freezes.
For normal operation of the air conditioner, you need to regularly clean the filters and drainage channels. When overloaded, the system becomes noisy - the fan is unbalanced or the bearings wear out. These breakdowns should only be repaired by a specialist.
- Automatic switches designed for boilers and washing machines are suitable for split systems.
- If the drainage pipes sag too much, condensation accumulates.
- If you have never done flaring before, practice on an unnecessary piece of pipe.
- It is better to carry out sealing together.
- After connecting the pipeline, you need to blow out the holes polyurethane foam or fill with silicone sealant.
Watch a video on how to install an air conditioner yourself
Translated from English word split means "crack", but there are other, less common translations, namely "division". This article describes the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands, and specifically a split system, which consists of divided blocks. Since the installation of an air conditioning system itself is quite an expensive undertaking, it will be useful to find out how you can install it yourself.
Installing an air conditioning system is not an easy task. In order to connect everything correctly, you need to know how it all functions:
- through a die (a nozzle in the form of a narrow hole) a rapidly boiling liquid is poured under pressure into the evaporator chamber, used to cool the air - this is the refrigerant. In the chamber, the liquid expands, boils, evaporates and thereby consumes a large amount warm air.
— water condensate accumulates on the evaporator heater during operation. It flows into a special tank, from which it goes outside (to the street) through a drainage tube.
- the compressor, like a vacuum pump, constantly pumps out refrigerant vapor from the evaporator chamber. High pressure causes the temperature of the refrigerant to rise to such an extent that it enters a supercritical state similar to a very dense fog.
- then the refrigerant passes into the condensation chamber, in which there is a heater blown by a fan. Under the cold air, the temperature of the refrigerant again changes critically, this time it cools and turns into a liquid.
- the liquid refrigerant again enters the evaporator through the nozzle and the cycle is constantly repeated.
What helps and what hinders the operation of the air conditioner
In order for the split system to function properly and at the same time save energy during installation, it is important to fulfill the following conditions:
- do not allow warm air to penetrate inside the equipment - when cold and hot zones come into contact, electricity consumption greatly increases. In this situation, the compressor is forced to distill heat inside the system, and this is an additional cost.
- maintain the tightness of the system - due to its depressurization, quickly boiling liquids can simply evaporate. This can happen even through the smallest hole.
- the external unit must be located lower than the internal one - this will create a thermosiphon effect (warm liquid rises), which makes the compressor work easier. If this is not done, then excessive consumption of electricity will inevitably occur, since the liquid will rise, overcoming the reverse thermosiphon effect.
- the external unit must be located in a cool place, in the shade - additional heating from the outside increases the energy consumption for cooling the system.
— the drainage tube should not be allowed to bend upward, since such convolutions are instantly populated by microbes and mold, and as a result become a source of infection.
What is an air split?
A split system differs from a conventional household air conditioner in that it consists of separated blocks. One of them is external, a compressor operates in it, and condensate is collected. The second block is internal, in which the thermostatic fluid evaporates. Many modern split systems not only cool the air in the room, but also heat it to the required temperature. When the air is heated, the cycle works in reverse, and the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit, while evaporation occurs in the outdoor unit. For this reason, in general, blocks are simply referred to as external (external) and internal.
It also happens that several internal units work with one external unit. At the same time, they can work separately, both cooling and heating the air. But this occurs only in expensive models of split systems. Although such air conditioning systems are expensive, they are more economical in operation than their cheaper counterparts. This happens because in such a situation, heat exchange inside the room does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner to work.
When to install an air conditioner
It would be better to install a split system in a house during the renovation period. There is a lot of work to be done to replace and install electrical wiring. It’s good that the wall finishing is not yet completed before installation begins. Otherwise, there will be costs associated with re-finishing the interior.
Required Tools
In order for the installation of the split system to proceed without delays, and after several days the equipment does not fail, it is necessary to use high-quality tools during the work. For installation you will need:
- a hammer drill with a set of chisels - you have to make holes in the wall with a diameter of up to 10 centimeters.
- reinforcement detector (if the wall is made of reinforced concrete) - if the hammer drill hits the reinforcement, the hole will have to be punched again.
- pipe cutter - only they need to cut pipes. If you cut the refrigerant pipes with a simple hacksaw, then there will certainly be particles of metal shavings along the edges, which will lead to compressor malfunction.
- a set for flaring tubes - if you try to bend the edges of the tube with improvised tools, you will not be able to achieve complete symmetry.
— scraping is a tool that is used to strip the ends of tubes. Files are not suitable for these purposes due to the risk of small particles getting inside the compressor.
— hand pump(bicycle) - it is useful for checking the system for leaks.
- vacuum pump - used to create a vacuum in the system before filling it. Many experts advise simply flushing with refrigerant, but this does not remove residual moisture, and as a result the compressor may be damaged, similar to the situation with metal shavings.
- phase indicator and tester - these devices will be useful when replacing electrical wiring.
- pressure gauge.
— pipeline.
Selecting the required tubes
For security the best solution will purchase a whole bay of copper tube. This is justified, since small chips may remain in the cut tube, which during operation can damage the compressor. In addition, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of the tube have factory flaring, and that there are no cracks, creases or other defects on the tube. Using a long pipeline, you can lower the outdoor unit much lower than the indoor unit. IN in this case overconsumption of material will quickly pay for itself, since the resulting thermosiphon effect will reduce the energy consumption of equipment.
Trimming, cleaning and shaping tubes
Before installing the air conditioner, it is necessary to do a test flaring, scraping and cutting of the tube. A special tool is used for flaring; before work, you need to carefully inspect and study its structure, possible defects during use, and know what the end result looks like. When purchasing a whole coil, it is best to purchase a small piece of trim for trial work, since it is not recommended to cut the coil for these purposes. The pipe is cut using a circular motion of the pipe cutter. Next, you need to do a scraping, in which the tube should be with the end down so that the tube scraps do not fall into the lumen and inside.
Installation of the external unit
Independent installation of an air conditioner in an apartment on floors above the second, namely an external unit, is considered life-threatening and impractical. On the upper floors, installation can only be done if there is a balcony or loggias. The external unit is easily and conveniently installed on the balcony on small and shallow brackets. A balcony is generally a convenient place to install an air conditioner, because it has north or east sides, which are simply ideal for installation. But even in the south, installing a split system is not so scary, since a roof or canopy will protect the external unit from overheating under the scorching sun even on the hottest day. It is on such a day that the operation of the air conditioner is very important.
Before installing the brackets, it is necessary to remove the glass for the installation period and drive the holders themselves into the lower part of the frame. In order not to spoil the lining of the loggia, you can bend the “roots” of the holders in the form of the letters “P” located horizontally.
Installation of a split system
Professional installation of a split system in a house takes place in a strict sequence:
- choosing a location for the indoor unit,
- installation and replacement of electrical wiring,
— installation of the external unit,
- making a hole in the wall for the pipes,
— laying a pipeline,
— electrical installation of connections in blocks,
- checking the tightness of the air conditioner,
— vacuuming the system,
— filling the system,
- power connection,
— test run of the system sleeping,
— insulation of interblock harnesses,
— capital sealing of holes,
- pleasant to use.
Some important stages of installing a split system are discussed in more detail below.
Selecting the location of indoor units
There are a number of places where the indoor unit of a split system cannot be installed:
- above heating devices;
- where there is no air access - behind curtains, partitions, screens and other seemingly insignificant obstacles;
- in rooms where there is equipment that causes electrical interference: workshops with power tools, kitchens with induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens. If this is neglected, the radiation will damage the unit’s processor.
Attention! There is no air conditioning in the kitchen. Cooling of air and the influx of new air occurs due to the house’s own general ventilation.
Electrical wiring features
The power of the smallest air conditioner is 1.5 kW. For this reason, it is simply necessary to lay a separate cable for the air conditioning system with a cable thickness of at least 2.5 square meters. mm. In addition, it is important to install a machine that can turn off the electricity in case of overload.
When connecting wires to the power panel, you need to connect the yellow wire with a green stripe along its entire length to N (neutral wire). Using the phase indicator, you need to determine the phase and zero.
How to drill holes in a wall
It is important to correctly determine the position of the reinforcement in the wall. If the fittings are hit, nothing can be done. You'll have to drill a new hole. Damage to the fittings is unacceptable, as this contradicts building regulations. In addition to the situation described, there is one more point. For this stage, a second person will be required who will warn people passing below about the possible fall of pieces of concrete or brick. This cannot be ignored, because if a random piece of debris falls on a person, the consequences can be very serious, including imprisonment.
The hole must be made with a diameter of more than 80 mm. The advice you come across about 50-60 mm most likely does not take thermal insulation into account.
Installation of tubes
First you need to cut the tube to the required length with a margin of about one meter. Then you can start bending the pipeline. This is done very carefully so that no breaks or wrinkles occur. The bend of the tube must correspond to a radius of 100 mm or no less. If wrinkles occur, they will create unnecessary resistance to the coolant and, as a result, increase energy consumption.
The next step is the thermal insulation of the tube. To do this, a hose made of polyurethane foam (flex) is put on it. There is no point in using other insulation materials, since they are short-lived and will become unusable after a season.
After this, it is necessary to put flanges on the tubes with threads to the ends of the tube and make flaring.
Next, we connect the tubes one by one to the existing fittings. At this stage, you need to be careful and make sure that the cold fitting of the indoor unit is not connected to the hot fitting of the outdoor unit. Sometimes the cold and hot fittings have different diameters.
The nuts on the fittings must be tightened securely, but not too tightly, because the nuts will need to be tightened to a control level when sealing.
A piece of reinforced plastic tubing can be used as drainage. It is connected to the drain pipe or with a threaded nut. A piece of heat-shrinkable tubing may also help. It is easily heated by a soldering iron, slightly touching the tube with the tip.
How to properly connect an air conditioner to the electrical network
To connect the blocks you will need multi-core insulated wires with a thickness of 2.5 square meters. mm. They connect the terminals of the blocks (indoor and outdoor), most often the terminals are the same. If the names of the terminals are different, then you need to study the instructions in detail and get advice from a specialist. All wires, by analogy with tubes, are passed through previously made holes in the wall.
Sealing
To carry out sealing, a soap solution is used. To do this, you need to purchase distilled water at the pharmacy and heat it to steam. Then, stirring gently, you need to dissolve a tablespoon of chopped laundry soap in it.
Two people should work here. You need to remove the outlet nipple and attach a rubber hose from a bicycle pump to its nipple. An assistant carefully pumps air, another one applies a soap solution with a brush to all threaded connections.
Then tighten the nuts until bubbles stop completely, plus 1/8 turn from above. Soap deposits are removed with a damp cloth.
Vacuum cleaning process
The next step is the vacuum process. It is necessary for the system to be cleared of dust and moisture, which are removed along with the air. To do this, the nipple is screwed into place and a vacuum pump is connected to it. It must be tightened tightly. Then you need to pump air for an hour. As a result, all residual moisture will evaporate.
Filling the system
It's time for the refrigerant to fill the system. To do this, a cylinder with coolant is connected to the system through an adapter with a pressure gauge. It should be filled until the pressure specified in the documentation is reached.
Important! Air conditioners that run on freon are prohibited from being filled with refrigerant and vice versa.
Test activation
When you turn on the machine, the split system should enter test mode on its own. If this does not happen, then you need to run the test from the remote control remote control. If it doesn’t work this time, it means that the installation was done incorrectly and, in order not to permanently damage the equipment, you need to call a specialist.
Finishing touches
If the test activation was successful, the blinds are installed in correct position and begin to sway. The harness located between the blocks on top must be wrapped with aluminum foil. This will serve as a heat shield, saving up to 3% of electricity. The second layer is towed together with drainage tube wrapped with moisture-resistant insulating tape. The final touch is to completely seal the hole in the wall. There is no need to do this with foam. On this we can sum up the decisive conclusion that the split system was installed independently and is working properly.
Video on the topic “How to install an air conditioner yourself”
In the last few decades, household air conditioners have firmly entered our lives and turned into everyday household appliances, as previously happened with other household appliances - refrigerators, food processors, etc. An air conditioner is a complex technical device, the installation of which is usually entrusted to specialists. However, in a number of cases, when the services of specialized organizations are not available, and the owner of the home has sufficient skills, you can install this unit yourself.
Types of household air conditioners
The entire variety of air conditioning systems can be divided into two main types - monoblocks and split systems.
Main hallmark monoblocks is the assembly of all components and assemblies in a single housing. Such systems include:
- Window air conditioners, in which there is a separation of units inside the housing, while the compressor unit is located on the rear side and must extend outside the room.
Installing a window air conditioner reduces the window area
- The housings of floor-standing or mobile air conditioners are equipped with wheels to allow free movement indoors. Such systems have an air duct that is ducted outside the room.
Floor standing air conditioners can be moved indoors
The advantages of monoblocks are directly related to the features of their design:
- Low cost combined with a long service life.
- Simplicity of design and operation.
- These systems achieve the highest possible efficiency.
- Fast air cooling.
- Most modern systems are equipped remote controls management.
Such systems are not without a number of design flaws:
- The number of possible installation options is limited (either in a window opening, or in a place where it is possible to bring the air duct hose outside).
- High noise level.
- The need to change the window geometry and attach complex suspension units in the case of installing a window air conditioner, which entails additional costs.
- If installed in a window opening, the illumination of the room is reduced.
A design feature of split systems is the division of air conditioning units into two blocks, one of which, the compressor, is placed outside. Unlike monoblocks, split systems have more varieties, but only some of them are used in residential premises:
- The most widely used are wall-mounted devices, when a hair dryer or indoor unit is attached to the wall of the home, and the compressor in the outdoor unit is installed on the facade. One of the types of such systems is inverter and non-inverter models. In the first, alternating current is converted into direct current, which allows adjustment of the compressor speed.
A split system hair dryer can be installed anywhere on the wall of the house
- Floor-ceiling systems are used less frequently. Their highlight is the ability to install a hairdryer either under the ceiling or on the floor. Accordingly, the air flows in the first case will spread from top to bottom, and in the second - from the floor up.
Indoor unit of a floor-ceiling split system
- Another type is multi-split systems. Their design provides for one external unit with a compressor and several internal units that are installed in different rooms houses or apartments.
A multi-split system is optimal when it is necessary to air condition several rooms
The undeniable advantages of split systems include:
- Low noise level.
- Function of cleaning the air from bacteria and dust.
- The presence of a heating function in the cold season.
This is interesting: quite often the heating function is provided by manufacturers in modern monoblock systems, both window and mobile.
- Compact size of the indoor unit, which can be installed in a room of any size.
- In many modern systems There is a function of air dehumidification and humidification, which allows you to create a comfortable microclimate in the room.
Disadvantages of split systems:
- Their cost is higher compared to monoblock models.
- The need to carry out a large volume of specialized work, including facade work, both during installation and when the need for repairs and preventive maintenance arises.
Methods for installing air conditioners in an apartment
- Monoblock models of window air conditioners are now purchased less and less often. The reason for this is a significant increase in the percentage of installation of plastic and other windows with standard double-glazed windows in homes. Change geometry window opening It becomes difficult, because such air conditioners are installed directly in the window unit, so that the rear part with the compressor is located outside the room. Such a system can be installed either at the bottom of the window, in which case it rests on the window sill, or at the top, using brackets to the ceiling or wall.
- Mobile fastening systems do not require. The location of their installation is selected based on the possibility of removing soft materials outside the room. corrugated pipe air duct. Technical solution This problem is left to the discretion of the buyer.
- The installation options for split systems are more diverse. This is due to numerous options for the relative position of the indoor and outdoor units and depends both on the owner’s wishes regarding the mounting location of the indoor unit, and on the technical ability to fix both the outdoor and indoor units in a specific location. Of no small importance is the possibility of laying communications between blocks. At the core optimal solution Usually a scheme is used in which the distance between the external and internal blocks is minimal. This solution allows you to minimize the amount of work associated with laying communications and allows you to save energy by reducing the heating that occurs during the circulation of the refrigerant.
Photo: the most commonly used layout diagrams of the external and internal units of a split system
Preparing the tools
If the decision to install a split system yourself is finally made, first of all you should check the availability necessary tools And Supplies. To complete the work you will need:
- A hammer drill with a drill with a cross-section of 40–45 mm and a length of at least 800 mm.
- Set of Pobedit drills with a diameter of 6–12 mm.
- Screwdriver with a set of bits.
- Metal scissors and reamer.
- Ruler, pencil and building level.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Vinyl insulation, masking tape and plastic bags.
- Brackets for fastening the outdoor unit, bolts with dowels 120 mm long.
When deciding on independent installation, it is worth considering the degree of accessibility to the installation site of the external unit. If it is mounted at a significant height, you will have to include the rental of an aerial platform in your expenses.
How to install a split system with your own hands
- At the first stage, the installation of a split-system hair dryer, that is, an indoor unit, is carried out. Steel perforated panel, on which it is attached, is removed from back wall and applied to the wall at the location of future installation. It is very important to make precise leveling, after which holes for fastenings are marked. Slopes are not allowed, as this will cause condensation to pour out of the housing onto the floor of the room. Another important point is that the distance to the ceiling should be left at least 7 cm. Holes are drilled in the wall with a hammer drill, after which the plate is attached using self-tapping screws and plastic dowels. Typically, dowels with a cross-section of 8 mm and a length of at least 32 mm are used. After hanging the hair dryer block onto the latches, the horizontal accuracy of the fastening is checked again using a level.
The hair dryer is hung on a steel shaped plate
- At the next stage, communication channels are prepared. If a hidden gasket is used, you will have to make grooves using impact hammer. However, such a decision entails production cosmetic repairs in the room. Therefore, nowadays most often communications are hidden using plastic box suitable section. Using a hammer drill and a drill, a hole is made in the outer wall to lead power and control cables, PVC pipes for condensate drainage and freon circuit pipes to the outdoor unit. Marking is done using a ruler and level. An important point: in order to ensure condensate drainage, the outlet should be slightly inclined towards the street. When drilling, use a vacuum cleaner and secure it directly under the hole. plastic bag with help masking tape to avoid significant contamination on furniture and walls. If the length of the drill is not enough, drilling is done from both sides. IN modern houses The wall thickness rarely exceeds 1 m.
The hole is drilled with an inclination towards the street
- After this, the most difficult stage begins - installing the street block. Since this unit houses a compressor, it weighs more than 20 kg, and installation is often carried out at a considerable height. Therefore, do not forget about safety measures, in particular, the use of safety equipment. Most often, the outdoor unit is mounted on the wall using L-shaped brackets. First, the location of the brackets on the wall is marked and holes are drilled. Then fastening is done with bolts and nuts using washers. The external block of the split system is bolted to the brackets, while thick rubber gaskets are mounted under the legs to reduce vibration and noise.
The outdoor unit is mounted on L-shaped brackets
- A possible option is to install the external unit on the roof of the building or directly on the ground. In this case, U-shaped brackets or frame metal stands are used. This solution can significantly increase the length of communications and is used when it is impossible to mount the unit on the wall, for example, when the wall surface materials are insufficiently strong.
- The next stage is the most critical. During it, a connection is made between the external and internal units by communications. First, the plastic protective cover on the external unit is removed and, in accordance with the manufacturer’s diagram, the power and control cables coming from the internal unit are connected to the terminals using bolts. Then the length of the freon line is measured and the copper tubes are cut with a margin of 10 cm. The ends of the tubes are rolled and chamfered using a reamer. The copper pipeline is connected first to the external block, then to the hair dryer using an adjustable wrench using union nuts screwed onto the fittings in both blocks. Before as copper tubes will be passed through a hole in the wall, vinyl insulation is put on them, the ends are insulated with tape so that debris does not get inside. A drainage drain tube is also installed; it is made of corrugated plastic PVC pipes, which is attached to the block with plastic clamps.
- The last stage is introducing freon into the refrigeration circuit. First, the gas is removed from the circuit by opening the valve, followed by vacuumization. The refrigerant is located in the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. The valves through which freon is introduced into the system are located there. If the length of the contour is equal to or less than the data specified in the data sheet, the introduction of additional volume will not be required. Experienced craftsmen Before this operation, the circuit is evacuated using a special pump with pressure gauges to control pressure loss. These actions not only allow you to check the tightness of the system, but also help to maximize the removal of moisture and air from the system, which reduces the load on the compressor.
- Upon completion of work, the assembled split system is checked in all operating modes. There should be no vibrations, fans on the internal and external blocks must rotate. There should be no foreign odors, drainage should remove moisture. Of course, the air conditioner must perform both cooling and heating functions.
Before introducing freon into the system, professionals evacuate the circuit
Video: installation of a split system without using a bucket truck
It's hard to imagine an apartment that doesn't have air conditioning. As can be seen from what has been written, even this complex equipment, if necessary, can be installed independently, without the involvement of a specialist.
