Do-it-yourself universal electric saw. Do-it-yourself universal electric saw Review of possible malfunctions of electric saws

When going on a long journey, overnight fishing, hunting, or just relaxing, many fishermen, hunters and tourists load a small chainsaw into the luggage of their car. Most often, this is a small lopper to cut a log for a supply of firewood for the fire. But what should lovers of hiking do over long distances? You can’t put a chainsaw in a backpack, even a small one - it will simply displace all the other accessories needed on a hiking trip. And the prospect of dragging excess weight, even if it is a necessary thing on a hike, does not cause much optimism. Of course, there is always room in your backpack for a small hatchet, but there are times when you need a saw. For example, sawing off a piece of thick log that will burn all night. Dry, resinous trunk of a fallen tree coniferous species, is unusually hard, and with a small hatchet you can bale it all night. No fire needed! In this case, the chain from this same chainsaw will really help us out, from which we will make a pocket chainsaw. With its help, you can quite easily and quickly saw through a trunk with a diameter of up to 20 centimeters. Making such a saw takes half an hour. Among other junk in my shed, I had a broken chainsaw chain lying around, from which I made a pocket chainsaw.

Of course, you can make it from a new chain, but, in my opinion, a saw from a new chain will not be as effective; its teeth are too wide, not sharpened and it is not designed - it will be harder to operate it. On an old chain, all the teeth, as a rule, are already thin and ground, which is very convenient for a saw of this type.

Will need

A chainsaw chain (preferably an old one, already developed).
Emery machine.
File (round, thin, for sharpening teeth).
Thick metal rings (from a bunch of keys, or from a keychain) 2 pcs.
Tin and flux.
Gas torch or powerful lighter.
A couple of links from a not too thick chain (as in the photo).
Machine oil.

Making a chain pocket saw:

First, let's rid the chain of everything unnecessary and sticking out. Except for the sawing teeth, of course.

Using an emery machine, we grind or saw off all the protrusions, teeth for the sprocket and tire, and the stops that are located immediately behind the saw teeth. You will get a chain like this:

Next you need to give the required form saw teeth. Since we will work with a chain saw in both directions, and not as it worked with a chainsaw - in one direction, then the teeth, accordingly, need to be sharpened at both ends. Using an emery machine, using a thin cutting disc, we give the teeth a triangular shape.

Armed with a round needle file or a thin file, we sharpen the teeth on the chain.

Now we need two powerful iron rings, as well as a couple of links from a small chain.

We widen the links a little so that the iron ring that will be put on later fits freely into them.

We connect the metal ring and the end of the chain with an extended link. It should look like this:

Next, let's move on to the handles. Here, at first, I made a little mistake with the material for the handles; I cut 16mm metal-plastic tubes the width of my hand.

Why didn't you guess? Because I didn’t take into account that in winter, in the cold, the plastic would slip out of woolen mittens, and it would be cold to work with gloves. So it’s better to use rough branches of suitable thickness cut on the spot instead of handles. Although everyone has their own business here - I personally (as can be seen in the video) got by just fine with metal rings attached to the ends of the saw chain, when I sent the constantly slipping tubes into the fire... so, after we connected all the parts of the saw chain, we need to solder the closed ones ends of metal rings and links, just in case. For greater reliability, so to speak. It takes too long to heat up the metal rings with a soldering iron, so I soldered them with a powerful lighter - I just cleaned up the metal surface to be soldered sandpaper, lubricated it with flux, heated it with a lighter and applied tin. All that remains is to lubricate the saw chain with machine oil.

I used gun oil for this, but in the absence of one, you can use any oil. At least it’s plant-based! That's all. All that remains is to carry out the test. As you can see in the video below, the chain handled dry wood just fine, even though I didn't use the handles.

If you need to cut down something more serious, it’s never too late to cut a couple of branches for handles. With such a saw, you can easily cut firewood for future use, so that you can then maintain the fire for heating and cooking without saving.

The most important and, perhaps, biggest advantage of this product is that it is very compact and lightweight. Roll the chain into rings, put it in a bag, and put it in the pocket of your backpack or bag – it’s a matter of minutes. Don’t forget to lubricate the chain with oil and file its teeth after each trip, and it will serve you well. for a long time, as indeed, any other thing when good care and kind, caring attitude.

Tools

An electric saw is an indispensable tool for summer cottage either in personal home. She simply masters cutting thick branches, boards and different material made of wood. Even the most reliable tool has its own degree of wear, sometimes it is necessary to correct small or large damage. Electric saw repair their with hands is possible only in certain cases and in the presence of certain abilities and equipment. Often the tool has to be sent in for service. But there are some breakdowns that can simply be corrected without the help of others.

Overview of the design of an electric chain saw

In order to master the ability to repair electric saws, you need to understand their design. The main element that cuts the material is the saw chain, which is driven by a motor. The chain itself is a collection of cutting links, which are fastened together by hinges. The chain moves along a plate called a tire. Do-it-yourself electric saw from a grinder -. This part is made from steel of the highest quality, which is not susceptible to chips, scratches and corrosion - this is the main indicator of the tool’s properties. Tires are classified by design:

welded;
solid with removable tip;
solid with a tip made of carbide materials.

A welded tire is something similar to a “sandwich” that is welded from 3 components into one, with all this a driven sprocket is riveted into the structure. One-piece design with replaceable tip - product from 1 sheet, normal for instruments long length. In such a tire, the main load falls on the roller bearing of the driven sprocket. The one-piece configuration reduces friction losses by 8-10%. If a tool with a solid tire made of carbide materials, then it is normally suitable for working with the highest load, also for operation in conditions of the presence of huge amounts of sand, dust and dirt.

1. ELECTRIC CHAIN SAW FROM AN GRINDER WITH YOUR OWN HANDS. When working with an electric saw of any configuration, you need to keep in mind the possibility of a “kickback” occurring. throwing the tool towards the person performing the work. This situation occurs if the very end of the saw bar rests on the material being processed. To avoid injury in such a situation, manufacturers equip saws with an automatic chain brake.

Review of possible malfunctions of electric saws

If the saw does not cut in, need to check availability of power, integrity of wires and connections.
If everything is in order in the power supply, you need to check the chain brake, which blocks the operation of the tool. To fix this problem, you need to move the brake flap to a different position.
If the measures described above do not turn on the saw, then need to check integrity of the cable and plug.
If the power of the saw has decreased or productivity has dropped, you need to change the carbon brushes, which are apparently worn out.
Quite often the chain begins to stop not immediately, but after a certain lapse of time. The longer the saw is used, the larger this temporary clearance becomes. To get rid of this task, you need to change the saw brake band, which has worn out over time.
Often, when the saw is operating, a nasty, ear-cutting sound occurs. This sound often occurs due to a lack of oil in the mechanism or due to contamination of the grooves that conduct it. A power chain saw is a saw, How to make a bird feeder with your own hands. Fixing the problem is simple - add oil and clean the grooves.
It is important to use only unique spare parts for repairs that are recommended by the manufacturer. If you use spare parts from third-party companies, this often leads to tool failure or unsafe situations.
If there is damage to the body, then for your safety, the saw must be sent in for repair.
You cannot replace cutting parts of the tool that are not recommended by the manufacturer or are not suitable for the design.

CHAIN POWER SAW FROM BULGARIAN WITH OWN WITH YOUR HANDS

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Homemade electric chain saw

Homemade removable adapter for an angle grinder, turning it into electric chain saw.

Sharpening a power saw

One of the elements of the saw that you need to monitor yourself is the chain. Electric chain saw 2 years of operation, is it worth it to renovate an apartment with your own hands? It must be sharpened preventively, since if this process is delayed, it will no longer be possible to repair the electric chain saw with your own hands. It must be sent to a service center, where it will be sharpened on professional machines.

Some rules for working with electric saws

Electric chainsaws are designed to operate at maximum speed and should always be operated at full throttle to improve performance.
You should not cut at a right angle away from yourself; you should hold the saw slightly at an angle from the body.
It is necessary to follow the instructions for repairing the electric saw, and also purchase only those spare parts which are recommended by the manufacturer.
Before transporting the saw, you must turn off the engine; keep the bar and chain behind you when carrying it; you must pack the saw in the casing before transportation.
Do not operate the saw above shoulder level as this increases the risk of an accident.
If the saw is jammed in the material, it must be removed from there very carefully. The buoyant force acting on the saw increases when the upper part is clamped, which is quite dangerous for the operator.
When working with a log framed by thin branches, you should act very carefully, since thin material in some cases is clamped by a tire and tilted towards the person performing the work.
It is strictly forbidden to use a faulty, unadjusted or incompletely assembled tool.
Before starting work, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the saw switch.
It is necessary to constantly monitor the tension of the chain, since if it is poorly tensioned, then the risk of it jumping off the guides increases, this leads not only to injury, but also to breakdown of the device.
Repair of Partner electric saws, like any other saws, is recommended to be carried out in a specialized service center, because do-it-yourself repair leads to serious problems in the future.

What can be made from an electric saw

Since sawing logs into bars and boards always requires cutting equipment, factory sawmills use rack (band) and circular saws. Naturally, for construction small house or making several cubes of boards, it is impractical and expensive to purchase such a machine. The best alternative he might become homemade design based on a chain saw.

Its potential is quite enough to satisfy the small needs of private developers, and just ordinary home craftsmen who cannot afford ready-made lumber. The electric saw here is the main device that combines a universal mechanical feed cutting tool, electric drive. Chain sawmill the best way, Unlike circular saw, is suitable for longitudinal bucking and sawing of logs, as it has:

rough cut sufficient for efficient sawdust ejection;
capaciously arranged electromechanical feed of the cutting tool (chain);
relatively low cost.

How to make a sawmill from an electric saw with your own hands

In fact, the cost of all equipment depends on the task at hand. It is important to correctly assess the potential of existing equipment. Everything must be taken into account - from the density of the wood to the power of the electric motor of the saw itself. However, all these calculations are quite simple. In addition, in almost any forested area it is possible to buy round timber, which is significantly cheaper in cost than lumber.

For creating to make a homemade sawmill using an electric saw you will need:

1. Bed, in the amount of two pieces.
2. Fasteners both for the saw itself and for fixing the workpiece (log).
3. Electrical wire with switch and plug socket.

Advice: In most cases we are dealing with wood that has low density fibers These are pine, linden, and similar trees, which will make it easier to select a saw based on an electric motor. For efficient work A saw with a power of more than 1.5 kW will almost always do. The only limitation here will be the speed of its operation. The stronger the engine, the faster the work and the cleaner the cut.

The above list should be discussed in more detail using one design as an example, since it is not possible to describe all of their modifications in one article. This is perhaps one relatively cheap, but very popular project. And the quality of the cut is almost as good as the famous one mobile sawmill Logosol.

bed

There are two of them in the design under consideration: one for the saw, and the other for fixing the workpiece. The operating principle of this unique chain sawmill is based on manual feeding of the electric saw to the workpiece. It is easy to understand that it must move along a rigid structure, which is usually called the machine bed. In our case, it is rigid, but necessarily smooth in all two planes edged board. To make the guide rigid, you need to frame it with two tin corners. They are easy to buy at a metal building profile store.

It is attached to wooden poles. As such, you can use blanks (wood logs) or cuttings of timber with a cross-section of more than 18 cm. The frame itself will stand more stable, and it is also more convenient to fix a board of maximum width.

A second frame should be placed a little lower to secure the workpiece. Its height is selected experimentally, but it is better to use pads made of boards of the exact size. The structure of the log frame itself is located on the same blocks.

Connecting them together is a personal preference, since to work it is enough to firmly dig in or screw its posts. The distance between two parallel beds is set arbitrarily. However, given the length of the saw bar, you should not install it more than 3 cm away. It is better that it stands close to the saw guide and strictly parallel horizontally relative to it.

Fastening the saw and fixing the workpiece

To fix the electric saw on the guide frame, use metal corner. A saw is attached to one shelf using bolts. To the other cheek of the corner, which lies on the plane of the guide board, two additional aluminum, but better steel, corners are fixed.

The main angle should have a wide cross-section, preferably more than 10 by 10 cm. This way the saw itself will sit more rigidly, and it will be easier to screw the guide angles from the bottom of the second shelf of the square. The guide angles should be secured with a small gap, taking into account the width of the guide frame. This design allows the saw to be easily removed from the stand. This will be more convenient for setting up equipment and dismantling it at the end of work.

Fix the preparation can be done in several ways:

Along the ends of the log using temporarily driven nails
Using special pads (saddles curved in a semicircle)

Fastening logs using hardware is a temporary option when you need to cut several logs. However, for constant and mass sawing it is advisable to make special fasteners. Saddles that approximate the radius of the logs are usually made of rigid steel tape. As a last resort, parallel bars are used on each stand of the frame.

Electrical equipment

The electrical equipment of a homemade sawmill cannot be called complex, since most of it is already present in the saw. You will need electrical wire, a special connector and plug, as well as a switch. The entire future electrical circuit will look like a universal extension cord, similar to the cord of a floor lamp or sconce.

The presence of a switch will allow you to better control the operation of the homemade product, and a special connector for connecting the saw fork is convenient for moving, as it does not get stuck anywhere. To prevent the power supply cord from accidentally jumping out during operation, it must be secured to the saw itself with a bridle or with electrical tape. The presence of an overload and short circuit protection circuit breaker in the electrical panel will help ensure safe operation.

Conclusion

A chain sawmill based on improvised means is no worse than factory equipment. The only thing it loses in is the speed of wood processing. But considering the nature and purpose of use homemade equipment, That is unnecessary. With only a power saw on hand and some money for assembly electrical extension cord, you will get a great opportunity to have your own sawmill.

Good afternoon, comrades!

I offer you my thoughts and experiences on sawing wood.

From all the forest travels that have happened in my life, I have come away with a strong conviction that a hiker (tourist, mushroom picker, hunter) does not really need a drink in the forest. With one exception - Node gets along.

I consider all other needs for cutting a tree trunk not relevant. The traveler does not need to perform construction works, felling of forests, procurement of firewood in commercial quantities. All work on arranging the parking lot is successfully carried out with a knife and an ax (namely an ax, and not those “Hutsul sokyrs” into which many of our comrades turn their tools).

Of course, if the purpose of the trip is to perform tasks that require a certain tool, the tool will have to be dragged. But now we are talking about that same forest pedestrian (tourist/mushroom picker/hunter) who carries all his luggage on himself, and always has matches, a knife, an ax in it.

Why might he need a saw in the forest? According to my observations, a trunk with a diameter of up to 100 mm is easier to cut (an ax can be used with it anyway), but more than 100 mm is easier to saw through, faster and less energy-intensive. This remark applies to places with a predominance of coniferous and soft deciduous trees. Oak, beech, hornbeam and other acacias require a saw right away, but I don’t go there.
Poles, spruce branches, and smaller firewood are easier to chop. Of the “large firewood”, only a couple of logs for the node seem necessary to me.

I consider the optimal diameter to be up to 150-200 mm. With a length of 1.5-2 m, one such log (dry) will weigh approx. 30 kg and a heating device will not undermine the fragile health of the traveler. A 30cm/2m log will weigh about 70kg - a bit much.

So, we have the technical specifications for the “pedestrian saw”:

— possibility of malling round timber diameter 20 cm (max. 30 cm);
— minimum weight (preferably negative);
— mode of use is periodic, rare;
— there is time to prepare for use (there is no need to sharply snatch and saw);
— the placement of luggage in the stowage is arbitrary (not a knife or a weapon).

Of the types of saws known to me (chain, circular, hacksaw, band saws), I chose the band bow saw as the simplest.

The frequently used “hacksaw” has significant weight (thicker and more durable knife, massive handle) due to its design. Popular pocket saw chains are unacceptably wide for self made cut (up to 6 mm) and, compared to bow tape, more weight.

A bow saw requires a saw blade, blade fasteners, and a cord. Everything else is in place in 5 minutes.

The length of the saw blade should exceed the diameter of the log (the larger the better, it will be more convenient to saw) and in our case a blade with a length of 300 mm is suitable (similar to a common blade for metal).

Two pieces of mounting paper tape and two M5 screws with nuts, a saw blade - that’s the whole kit for the saw.

Making the frame and assembling the saw took approx. 10 minutes. I used a cord from the drawstring of my wife’s jacket as a tie. dimensions saws approx. 30x30 cm, maximum depth sawed up to 15 cm. In principle, it is possible to saw through a log up to 30 cm - in a circle.

I sawed a trunk with a diameter of 13-14 cm. Two cuts took 5 minutes each (though one saw handle broke and had to be replaced). If I had been chopping this thing for half an hour, my strength would have gone completely.

I took the saw apart, put the sticks into the fire, and the canvas into the backpack.

The first experience made changes to the performance characteristics of the tool:

1. The saw must be transverse (tooth shape - equilateral triangle, double-sided sharpening). With such a saw it is impossible to cut otherwise than across - so it’s not necessary. In addition, such a saw has both movements (both there and back) that are functional;

2. The saw length of 300 mm is clearly not enough. Maximum amplitude
sawing (comfortable arm span) no more than 60 cm. I consider the most convenient saw length to be 40-45 cm (a person who likes to work with his hands at home can check the height of the stool on which he saws off the baseboard without damaging the parquet). For packing into a backpack, 40 cm is just right. So - length 400 mm;

3. The saw tooth spread must be SUFFICIENT. And the wood is not too dry in the forest, and the trunk tends to be pinched in the cut when the trunk sag. The total spread (cut width) should be 2-3 times the thickness of the blade. More is better, but cutting will be harder - a larger volume of wood will have to be “gnawed out”;

4. At least one diagonal in the saw frame is required. For example, another cord connecting the top of the front handle to the middle (or opposite end) of the spreader bar. So that it works in tension during the main working stroke of the saw (from itself).
I prepared a new saw for the summer voyage - I bought the cheapest hacksaw, removed the handle, cut off the saw part about 30 mm wide, drilled at the ends and put it in the stack.

Assembling the saw took 10-15 minutes, a diagonal was added.

Frame dimensions approx. 45x45 cm, blade length approx. 45 cm, cutting depth 20-25 cm. The saw blade from the first experiment is nearby for comparison.

I sawed sushi with a diameter of 20-25 cm. One cut took approx. 5 minutes. It’s quite convenient to work, the main move is on yourself (you get used to it quickly)

Comments based on the results of the work:

1. The thickness of the sticks used for the frame should be 3-4 cm. The strength is sufficient and it is more convenient to hold;

2. The used punched paper tape must be replaced with a wider strip (for example, galvanized) - the canvas was twisted on a loop made of narrow punched paper tape.

I always have a folding knife with a wood saw with me in the forest.

These saws are very convenient to use during hiking trips - they take up very little space and cut perfectly. Buying a factory-made tool is not always possible, but there is an easy way to make it yourself.

What you need

The saw is made from a chainsaw chain; a piece of polymer sling 60–70 cm long and approximately 3–4 cm wide is used for the handles. The elements are fastened with M6 bolts with washers and nuts. The plastic is glued together with an iron through baking paper, the chain is disassembled using a small grinder and a punch.

Manufacturing process

Place the chain on a flat surface and find the connecting link. Using a cordless angle grinder or grinder, carefully cut off the head of the rivets connecting the chain links.

Place the chain on a vice and remove the axes of the connecting rivets with a punch, the chain will be disconnected.

Prepare two pieces of polymer sling, each about 30 cm long. Bend them in half; the size of the loops should ensure a comfortable hand position while working with the saw. Bend the ends 3-4 cm and fold them together. In this way, a reinforced unit for attaching the chain is prepared.

Place a piece of baking paper on a piece of board, one end of a folded sling on it, and again paper on top. Use an iron to heat the prepared area until the polymer melts and sticks together. Heat carefully, do not allow the plastic to completely melt - some types become brittle; when using a saw, the place where the chain is fixed cracks; the tool will have to be repaired field conditions. Using this technology, process all four ends of the pieces of tape.

Using a punch, make holes for the bolts. They should be placed approximately in the middle of the prepared area at a distance of 2–3 cm from the end.

Attach a chain to the handles. First, place a bolt and washer in the hole, put the open chain link on it, then the other end of the handle and tighten the connection with a nut.

Manual chain Saw ready to use. Press down on the branch with your foot and try to cut it. If the chain is sharp, then harvesting firewood of the required length will require a minimum of physical effort and time.