Fertilize the soil before planting. Fertilizing the land in the fall. Humus is an effective way to prepare a site for winter

Organic fertilizer such as manure is deservedly popular among gardeners. It not only contains a large amount of minerals and trace elements needed by plants, but also improves the structure of the soil, increasing its ability to absorb water. However, it is not recommended to apply manure more than once every three years, and it is not always possible to purchase it. How to fertilize the soil in autumn in this case?

Organic fertilizers used for application in the fall

Fertilizers of natural origin contain less minerals than those offered chemical industry, but they restore soil fertility. In addition to manure, the following can be used as a natural plant food: organic materials:

  1. , which is safer for plants than fresh manure. The compost mass begins to be prepared in the spring, adding all possible plant residues (excluding plants that may contain spores of fungal diseases). Treatment with a solution containing EM preparations will significantly speed up the processing process, and by autumn you will receive an excellent organic fertilizer. Compost can be used for digging up beds, or added between strawberry rows. Even if it is not fully ripe, mulching of tree trunk circles is allowed fruit trees or land around bushes. This work is carried out before the onset of frost.

    Foxgloves, tomato and potato tops, castor beans, broom, lily of the valley and aconite cannot be added to compost, as these plants kill microorganisms that contribute to the processing of organic matter.

  2. A good organic fertilizer is. In the fall, it can be applied without diluting with water in dried form at the rate of 1 - 1.5 kg/m2 for future beds with cabbage, potatoes, lettuce and onions. The droppings are added under digging or embedded in the ground with a rake.
  3. also perfect for application in the fall perennials. It is rich in phosphorus, potassium and microelements, and contains almost no nitrogen. Fertilizing can be carried out in the form of a solution (300 g of ash per 10 l hot water and leave for several hours) or dry. When using dry ash, it is introduced into shallow grooves and covered with earth. Ash fertilization can be carried out for fruit trees, berry bushes, strawberries, perennial flowers. Ash is also added when digging beds (1 kg/m2), and it can also be sprinkled on plantings of winter garlic and onions.
  4. contains up to 35% phosphorus and potassium; in the fall it is used to feed perennial flowers (roses, bulbous plants), berry bushes (150g per bush) and fruit trees (250g per trunk), but not more than once every 3 years. In the fall, it can also be applied to planting potatoes and tomatoes. Flour is added before digging the site or embedded in the soil.

Green manure

Green manure is an excellent substitute for organic fertilizers; you just need to consider what crops will be planted after them. Green manure is sown immediately after harvesting - at the end of August or September.

Table: use of green manure

Green manureThe resulting effect of applicationWhat can you plant after it?
Legumes (vetch, peas, alfalfa,).Enrich the soil with nitrogen in an easily accessible form.Solanaceous (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers), cruciferous (cabbage, radishes) and pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin) crops.
Buckwheat.Reduces soil acidity, enriches with phosphorus and potassium.All crops except rhubarb, sorrel and spinach.
Cereals (oats, rye, barley).They increase the nitrogen and potassium content, increase air and moisture permeability, and repel nematodes.Nightshade and pumpkin.
Cruciferous vegetables (mustard, rapeseed, Shrovetide radish).They increase the content of potassium and phosphorus, help get rid of nematodes, slugs and wireworms.Nightshade, pumpkin, umbelliferous (carrots, dill).

Video: green manure in autumn

Mineral fertilizers

No deposit mineral fertilizers it is difficult to completely restore the loss of nutrients during the season. When choosing autumn feeding, more attention is paid to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Nitrogen is not applied in the fall, with the exception of urea, which retains nitrogen in the soil until spring.

Table: the most common types of fertilizers applied in the fall

Mineral fertilizers.Application.
Superphosphate contains 20–50% phosphorus, and a small nitrogen content is required for better digestibility of this substance. With a lack of phosphorus, the root system dies, which can cause the death of the plant. Therefore, its application in the fall is mandatory.For watering strawberry rows, prepare a solution of 10 g per 10 liters of water.
When feeding roses and bulbous flowers, the dosage is 15 g/10 l.
Top dressing berry bushes and fruit trees is carried out by applying dry fertilizer and then incorporating it into the soil. Application rate for simple superphosphate:
  • for one bush - 20–30 g;
  • for a tree trunk circle - about 50 g.

The norms for double superphosphate are 1.5 times less.

Potassium sulfate and autumn fertilizing with this mineral promotes the health of plants and helps them better endure the winter. But this fertilizer increases the acidity of the soil, so acidic soils it is added with lime.In the fall, you can apply it dry, trying to bring it closer to the root system. Application rates:
  • for strawberries and flower crops - 15–20 g/m²;
  • for fruit trees - about 150 g per tree.
Potassium chloride, like potassium sulfate, is necessary to strengthen plants and prepare them for winter.When added under digging in the fall, chlorine dissolves in the soil, and potassium remains until spring. Application rates:
100–200 g/10 m2. For fruit trees, 120 - 180 g per tree is applied, depending on the type of soil.

In specialized stores you can purchase complex mineral fertilizers (for example, “Autumn”) containing potassium, phosphorus and other microelements. The application dosage is carried out according to the instructions.

All mineral fertilizing in the fall must be completed before mid-October, since it is not recommended to loosen the soil when the rainy season begins.

Video: what fertilizers to apply in the fall

In autumn, while the earth is at rest, the right time to improve soil fertility. It is necessary not only to enrich the soil with minerals spent during the season, but also to add organic matter to improve its structure. How exactly to do this is up to you to decide.

In spring, one of the main tasks is to fertilize the soil. What fertilizers to choose for this and how to fertilize the soil in the spring at the dacha if there is no manure? This is what this article will talk about.

Often used as fertilizer garden plots Green manure is increasingly being used. Green manures are plants that are sown and then plowed into the ground, thereby improving its composition. The following grain crops are used as green manure:

  • buckwheat;
  • wheat;
  • oats;
  • lupine;
  • mustard and some other plants.

When sowing plants for fertilizer, those with well-developed roots and a large amount of vegetative mass are selected. Such plants should have a short growth period, which is why they are planted as green manure. . What plants to plant to improve the soil depends on its condition. Cereals planted as fertilizer are equivalent in productivity to horse or cow manure.

Green manure is often used as a fertilizer in garden plots.

The root system of such plantings is well branched; it loosens the soil, enriching it with oxygen., the structure of the soil improves, the top layer of the earth becomes healthier. As such plantings grow, the soil becomes more saturated with moisture, its acidity decreases, and the soil is disinfected. And these positive traits the soil retains for several years after growing green manure on it.

Legumes planted on the site saturate the soil with nitrogen and phosphorus. These elements contribute to the rapid growth of the vegetative mass of garden crops and fruit trees. And rye is a supplier of potassium to the soil. Rye grows very quickly, so it can be used as green manure not only in autumn period, but also in the spring, immediately after the snow melts. Marigolds or marigolds should be used to disinfect the area. To more successfully fight the Colorado potato beetle on your site, you should regularly use parsnips or alfalfa as green manure.

When choosing what to plant on a site to improve the soil composition, you should remember that vegetable crops They grow better after certain plants. Rye promotes better growth potatoes, tomatoes or cucumbers.

In spring, green manure plants are usually planted in the trunks of fruit trees. These plantings will improve the soil throughout the season with minerals and nitrogen, prevent weeds from growing and multiplying, and when the fruit trees bloom, these plants will attract flying insects and thereby improve the pollination of the trees.

Organic fertilizers for the garden (video)

Fertilizing the soil with manure in spring

In spring, fresh manure is not applied to the soil because it can burn root system planted vegetable plants. Therefore, rotted soil is usually used as soil fertilizing in the spring. horse dung or mullein. Typically, manure is collected during the summer and autumn, and applied to the ground only in early spring. This organic fertilizer saturates the soil with nitrogen., which is extremely necessary for cultivated plants during the growth period - this microelement accelerates the growth of shoots and vegetative mass. In addition to nitrogen, manure also contains other macro and microelements necessary for full development cultivated plants in the garden plot.

Typically, manure should be applied to the soil immediately after the snow melts. Typically, this organic fertilizer is sprinkled over the area immediately before digging the soil, after the soil has warmed up sufficiently after winter. However, when applying organic fertilizers should be remembered that their excess is just as harmful to plants as their deficiency. 10 kg of manure is applied per 1 m2 of soil - this amount of this organic fertilizer is quite enough to saturate the soil with useful substances.

Rotted horse manure or mullein is usually used as soil fertilizing in spring.

If there is not too much manure to fertilize the entire garden, then this rotted organic fertilizer is applied directly to the planting holes.

As a top dressing in spring period You can also use slurry. It is prepared as follows: rotted manure is diluted with liquid (5 liters of water are taken per 1 kilogram of manure). Such Fruit trees and planted vegetable plants are fertilized with liquid fertilizer in the spring. Berry bushes, strawberries, apple trees, pears, and stone fruit trees are especially responsive to such feeding.

The application of rotted manure improves the composition of the soil, so it is also used as mulch. The application of this organic fertilizer helps plants absorb the applied mineral fertilizers faster and better. Therefore, experienced gardeners apply manure to the soil during the spring.

When there is no rotted manure in the spring, it can be replaced with wood ash

How to fertilize the land if there is no manure

When there is no rotted manure in the spring, it can be replaced with other organic matter. It can be:

  • chicken droppings;
  • high peat;
  • rotted compost mass;
  • sawdust from trees;
  • straw;
  • wood ash and other similar fertilizers.

When applied to the soil, these fertilizers help loosen it, enrich the depleted soil with the necessary macro and microelements, help increase the vegetative mass and develop all the cultivated plants on the site.

How to apply mineral fertilizers (video)

When and how to feed the soil in spring with mineral fertilizers

In addition to organic matter, mineral supplements should also be added in the spring. Gardeners select the composition of such fertilizers, taking into account the general condition of the soil, the crops that will be planted in specific areas and many other factors.

Payment deadline mineral supplements in spring it depends on when the snow in the garden melts. It is not worth spreading such fertilizers on unmelted snow.– most of the fertilizers can “float away” along with the melt water. IN tree trunk circles You can apply mineral fertilizers even when the ground has not completely thawed. But under the planted vegetable crops, mineral additives are poured directly into the prepared holes.

The timing of applying mineral fertilizers in the spring depends on when the snow in the garden melts

In the spring, the following mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil:

  1. Containing nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, urea, ammonium sulfate). These fertilizers accelerate the acquisition of vegetative mass by plants, stimulate the growth of the root system, and contribute to high yields.
  2. Fertilizers containing phosphorus (superphosphates and double superphosphates) are also very important for plants in spring. After all, these microelements stimulate plant growth, as well as their development. The norm for applying such fertilizers is 1 cup per 1 m2.

Using mineral fertilizers as spring fertilizing, it is necessary to strictly adhere to all instructions for the use of these additives, as well as the doses required for application to the soil. This takes into account the types of soils into which fertilizers are applied and the plants that need to be fed.

The main disadvantage when applying mineral fertilizers in the spring is their possible leaching from the soil during the spring rains.

When using mineral fertilizers as spring fertilizers, you must strictly adhere to all instructions for using these additives

Features of applying nitrogen fertilizers

When applying nitrogen fertilizers, the following features should be taken into account:

  1. Nitrogen promotes the growth of vegetative mass, rapid growth shoots and root system, therefore it is applied to any plants and trees at a certain period - in spring and early summer - when these cultivated plants are actively growing. But during the period of flowering, fruiting and subsequent preparation for winter, nitrogen should not be applied, so as not to provoke excessive growth of foliage in trees and shrubs to the detriment of the ripening crop.
  2. The amount of nitrogen in the soil should be sufficient for plants, but its excess is harmful. Therefore, you should not get carried away with applying organic fertilizers (especially mullein or other types of manure) and adhere to certain standards when applying such fertilizers.

Nitrogen promotes the growth of vegetative mass, rapid growth of shoots and root system

Universal fertilizers for garden and vegetable crops

There are a large number of complex fertilizers on sale, which contain all the necessary mineral elements and other nutrients, necessary for plants. The application of such complex fertilizers allows you to immediately add all the elements that are necessary to the soil. Moreover the composition of such fertilizers may vary– depending on the type of soil and the growth characteristics of the cultivated plants grown on the site.

When using these supplements, you must adhere to the instructions for their use and in no case reduce or increase the dosage unless necessary.

How to fertilize the soil

Sometimes, when applying fertilizers in the garden, inexperienced gardeners and gardeners make mistakes that lead to unpleasant results. For example, excessive application of organic fertilizers, with the exception of peat and humus, causes excessive and protracted growth of shoots, reducing the winter hardiness of the plant, which is why young immature shoots freeze first. Plants begin to bear fruit late, the quality of the fruit deteriorates, and their shelf life is reduced. The same consequences are caused by late-summer fertilizing with nitrogen mineral fertilizers.

Overkill with making mineral nitrogen fertilizers on light soils can lead to the death of plants, especially berries. Applying mineral nitrogen fertilizers before planting makes no sense, since by the time the plants need them, they will have time to decompose and be washed out of the soil. In addition, applying fresh manure and mineral nitrogen fertilizers in large volumes near the tree trunk can lead to the death of the plant.

Surface application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers does not make sense, since plants, especially fruit plants, are not able to use them.

Applying any fertilizers to dry soil is impractical and even dangerous, as it causes oppression of plants due to a sharp increase in the concentration of the soil solution.

Methods and timing of fertilizer application

Successfully choosing the optimal timing and methods of fertilizing the soil is a kind of art that will provide plants with useful substances throughout the entire period of their growth and development. The reward for your efforts will be high yields and quality products.

Local application of fertilizers during root feeding allows fertilizers to be applied to the required depth, which makes it possible to place them within the soil layer where the roots are located. It is best to apply fertilizers into a moist layer of soil at a depth of 15-20 cm - in the area where the root system of most plants is active. If they are embedded shallowly (1-5 cm) or scattered over the surface without any embedding, the beneficial substances will remain in the dried soil layer and will not be available to plants, and therefore will not bring the desired result.

Thanks to the local application of fertilizers, the coefficient of nitrogen consumption by plants increases by 10-15%, phosphorus - by 5-10%, potassium - by 10-12%, when compared with broadcast surface application.

When applying locally, take into account the difference in travel speed individual elements, each of which moves from the common source of fertilizers at its own speed. Nitrates are the most mobile, molybdenum, ammonium nitrogen and exchangeable potassium have a slower movement rate, phosphorus moves more slowly than others.

In many ways, the speed of movement of nutrients depends on the composition of the soil, its properties and the quality of fertilizers. Typically, on cohesive soils, most of the nutrients complete their movement from the source of fertilizers in the first 2-3 weeks. In heavy clay and loamy soils the process is much slower than in light sandy soils.

On soddy-podzolic loamy soils, ammonium nitrogen and potassium move in horizontal and vertical directions no more than 6-7 cm from the center of the fertilizer source. Nitrate nitrogen spreads throughout the treated soil layer, and phosphorus moves within a radius of only 2-3 cm from the center of the focus. On light sandy loam and sandy soils, the radius of the distribution zone of phosphorus increases to 3-4 cm, and potassium - to 10 cm. Nitrates spread with the same ease as in bound soils.

Solid and liquid forms of complex fertilizers act approximately equally when applied locally. Granular complex fertilizers are considered more effective.

❧ It happens that in some areas with clay soils it is impossible to detect microorganisms: they simply cannot live here due to too high density soil and lack of oxygen. These are the so-called dead zones that require artificial cultivation.

The rate of distribution of nutrients within the soil layers shows that solid dry fertilizers for feeding need to be applied somewhat earlier than the prescribed period so that they can be absorbed and reach the root system of the plant in a timely manner.

As dry organic feeding You can use humus, peat, leaf soil or bird droppings. To introduce fertilizer into the soil, first remove upper layer soil about 1-2 cm thick, then distribute the nutrients evenly over the area and cover the top with a thin layer of previously removed soil.

Liquid fertilizers spread in the soil at a higher speed, which is simply necessary in case of urgent feeding, because they will reach the root system area much faster. It is preferable to apply liquid fertilizers into shallow grooves (5-10 cm) laid near the plant. Moreover, it is advisable to make as many of them as possible, since then larger number the roots will come into contact with the fertilizer. Typically, grooves are made in a near-trunk circle around the plant according to the projection of the crown - this is sufficient for most berry bushes and vegetable bush crops. For fruit trees, a circular groove is made along the border of the trunk circle and several additional ones are made in the circle itself under the crown.

If the weather is humid during fertilizing, then you don’t have to make furrows; just water the soil around the plant with a fertilizer solution. Besides, high humidity allows the use of fairly strong fertilizer solutions. If the soil moisture is low, you should reduce the strength of the solution or add strong solution, without diluting, but immediately water the treated area.

After watering the soil with a fertilizer solution, you need to spray the plants with water to wash off any fertilizer that accidentally gets on them. This measure will help avoid burns of leaves and stems, since the solution for root feeding is not suitable in concentration for spraying the above-ground part of the plant.

Timing of root feeding

When determining the timing of root feeding and making a choice between dry application of the Fertilizer mixture and the use of a liquid solution, you should remember the speed of distribution of nutrients within the soil layers, since it determines when the nutrients reach the roots. At the same time, even a small change in the timing of applying a particular fertilizer can affect the entire course of biochemical processes occurring in plants. Thus, the acceleration or deceleration of the rate of plant development, the balance of the ratio of their generative and vegetative organs, as well as the chemical composition of the cultivated crops depend on the timing of fertilizer application.

Fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is usually carried out in the spring, but in the autumn they are applied very rarely and not at all. large quantities. The exception is clay and loamy (not sandy) soils, where, if necessary, nitrogen fertilizers can be applied in the fall, but using only those species that contain nitrogen in ammonia form. Nitrogen fertilizers are mainly used for fertilizing in early summer during the active growing season of plants.

Potassium fertilizers containing chlorine (potassium chloride, potassium salts) are recommended to be applied in the fall, since during the winter it will go into the lower layers of the soil. In the spring, such fertilizing can be carried out only in small doses in case of urgent need.

Phosphorus fertilizers can be applied in both autumn and spring.

❧ Rotted manure is considered the most effective organic fertilizer for the garden. At the same time, you need to purchase cow manure only from trusted places, since it can be heavily contaminated with weed seeds. Horse manure contains almost no such seeds.

With the help of fertilizing, the lack of certain nutrients in the soil is compensated. For normal development, plants need to be fed systematically, without waiting for signs of starvation to appear. Feeding carried out in different periods plant development are aimed at solving certain problems:

Fertilizing in early spring is necessary to enhance growth;

Feeding during bud formation is necessary for high-quality flowering;

Feeding at the end of summer is required for better education shoots.

Preparation of fertilizer solutions and mixtures

To prepare fertilizer solutions and mixtures, it is important to remember that one 10-liter bucket contains:

8 kg of fresh horse manure;

9 kg fresh cow dung;

5 kg of bird droppings;

5 kg of dry peat;

5 kg of wood ash;

12 kg of turf soil;

10 kg of compost soil.

Liquid fertilizer from mullein

A product for root feeding from mullein can be prepared as follows: fill a barrel (volume does not matter) halfway with cow manure, fill it to the top with water and mix the contents several times. The result will be a strong solution of mullein (mullein), which should be left to ferment for 1-2 weeks. IN warm weather the process goes faster.

Before adding to the soil, a strong solution of mullein is diluted with water, and the more water, the better. Especially this one simple rule must be followed when applying fertilizer to dry soil. By the way, you can water the soil before fertilizing.

In addition, for root feeding of plants, you can prepare a less concentrated solution by filling the barrel one third with cow manure and adding water to the top. Further, everything completely corresponds to the preparation method described above. Before applying to the soil, the finished fertilizer is diluted with water 2-3 times.

Liquid quick fertilizer from manure

For root feeding of plants, you can prepare a weakly concentrated solution with the addition of microfertilizers. To do this, put solid bedding manure into a barrel to a quarter of its volume, then add required amount microfertilizers and top up with water, preferably rainwater. Infuse this solution for 1-2 days, stirring regularly. Unpleasant smell can be reduced somewhat by adding pulverized silica. Then the resulting solution is diluted with water and watered over the plants.

Liquid fertilizer made from slurry with superphosphate

When preparing a solution for root feeding, take 1 part of slurry per 1 liter of solution, add 3-5 parts of water and mix thoroughly. To enrich the resulting composition, add 25-30 g of superphosphate. Ready-made fertilizer is applied at the rate of 1.5-2 liters per 1 m2.

Liquid feed from rabbit droppings

For root feeding in spring and summer, you can prepare liquid fertilizer from rabbit droppings. To do this, 1-2 kg of rabbit droppings are diluted in a bucket of water (10 l) and allowed to stand for a while until the droppings are completely dissolved.

Fertilizer is applied to shallow holes or grooves dug in the ground at the rate of 1.5 liters per 1 m2, which after application are covered with earth.

Liquid fertilizer made from bird droppings

From clean bird droppings you can prepare a mash for liquid root feeding. A barrel of any volume is filled by a third with bird droppings, filled with water to the very top, mixed thoroughly and left for 3-5 days, stirring occasionally.

It is not recommended to infuse the solution for too long, as this may result in large losses of nitrogen. Before use, the fertilizer is diluted with water in the following proportion: 1 part solution to 3-4 parts water. Liquid fertilizer is applied to the wells for crops, using 1.5 liters per 1 m2.

Making an Herbal Infusion Here, one type or mixture of fresh herbs (such as comfrey, nettle, dandelion, chamomile and wormwood) is roughly ground and layered in a non-metallic rainwater barrel. It is advisable to add stinging nettle to any collection, since it contains a number of valuable active substances that have bactericidal properties and increase plant resistance to diseases, stimulate growth and promote the formation of chlorophyll.

The herbs are not compacted so that there is free space for air between them. The barrel is filled with rainwater, leaving a little free space at the top, since the liquid will foam during fermentation.

Herbal infusions with rainwater have a beneficial effect on plants, and the proportion between herbs and water can be arbitrary, but the approximate ratio should be: 1 kg of fresh or 200 g of dried herbs per 10 liters of water.

The infusion must be fermented well so that the herbs completely release all the valuable substances they contain, and nitrogen is released during the decomposition process. The barrel is left open for free access of oxygen, which will improve the fermentation process. For the same purpose, the herbal infusion must be stirred daily. If this is not done, access to oxygen will be difficult and stagnant rotting processes may begin, which will cause the release of toxic substances and reduce quality liquid fertilizer. To reduce the unpleasant odor that accompanies fermentation, you can add a handful of pulverized silica.

Depending on the air temperature, the infusion will be ready in 10-14 days or a little later. When ready, the liquid no longer shows signs of fermentation, the remaining suspension settles to the bottom, and the infusion becomes transparent and dark.

Before use, the herbal infusion should be strained through a fine sieve and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. For mature, mature crops, you can prepare a slightly stronger solution.

Plants are watered with herbal infusion at the root, protecting the skin of the hands with rubber gloves. Liquid green fertilizer is suitable for watering tomatoes, cabbage, celery, cucumbers, but not suitable for beans, peas and onions.

Infusion from weeds with nitrophoska

To prepare fertilizer, you can use the cake from mowed grass from a lawn mower. To do this, the chopped grass clippings are placed in a container, filling up to half its volume. Then add water to the top and add nitrophoska at the rate of 2-3 tbsp. spoons for every 10 liters of container. Infuse this mixture for 2-3 days in hot weather or 5-6 days in normal weather, until the solution turns green.

The beds are watered with ready-made fertilizer from a watering can (10 liters of solution per 1.5-2 m2) or the plants are sprayed with foliar feeding. Herbal pomace can be strained and added to compost.

Herbal infusion with tea

The crushed stems of nettle and celandine are placed in a barrel (the volume does not matter), the dried tea leaves are added, filled with water and left to brew until fermentation begins.

The beds are watered ready-made solution from a watering can (10 liters of solution per 1.5-2 m2).

Herb tea

Herbal tea is essentially a variant of an herbal infusion that helps increase the vitality of plants. To prepare it, fresh plants (comfrey, chamomile, dandelion, nettle, wormwood, etc.) are prepared in the same way as for preparing an infusion, but then they are doused with boiling water and left in the water until it cools completely.

Herbal tea can be watered at the roots of plants and sprayed on foliage during foliar feeding.

Wood ash fertilizer

Wood or wood-bone ash is dissolved in water in a ratio of 1:20. Currants (especially red ones) or gooseberries are fed with this composition 2 times a week during the period of fruit ripening, watering the plants at the root.

Fertilizers from shells

Eggshells are very valuable fertilizer for the garden and vegetable garden.

The shells are poured into a cast iron pan and crushed with a wooden mortar to a fine fraction and mixed with ready-made compost and peat in a ratio of 1:1:1. Peat must first be dried to eliminate acidity.

The resulting mixture can be used as mulch or applied to the tree trunk using a dry method. Fertilizing helps to increase the yield of vegetables and all berry crops.

Top dressing from crushed eggshells is useful for plants grown in a greenhouse. Apply it dry, 200 g per 1 m2, sprinkling it with greenhouse soil afterwards for better absorption.

Bird droppings powder

Bird droppings are ground to a powder and applied dryly, i.e. scattered under crops at the rate of 30-50 g per 1 m2. Sprinkle the treated area with a thin layer of earth on top to prevent the appearance of an unpleasant odor.

Liquid superphosphate fertilizer

To prepare the composition, pour 5 liters of water into a container, add 300-500 g of powdered or granulated simple superphosphate, mix well and leave for some time until a precipitate forms. After this, the solution is separated from the sediment and water is poured two more times in 2.5 liter portions, again infusing the solution and separating it from the sediment.

During the infusion process, superphosphate goes into solution, and the gypsum included in its composition remains in the sediment. Double superphosphate,

The resulting solution is used to water plants during phosphorus starvation.

Liquid fertilizer from Novofert complex fertilizer

Fill the container 60-70% of the volume with soft (chlorine-free) water, add Novofert fertilizer to the right quantity(each case is individual), mix thoroughly and, if necessary, add agents if they dissolve well in water. Then add water to the full volume of the container.

To check the compatibility of all components, prepare a test solution in small quantity. In this case, the absence of sediment can be considered a sign of good compatibility.

When applied during foliar feeding, the temperature of the working solution can range from 8-10 °C to 18-20 °C, and the air temperature should not be lower than 10 °C.

Fertilizer application rates

Doses of fertilizers in top dressing are determined by the fertility of the soil and the amount of fertilizer applied in the spring.

Wood ash can be applied to raspberries, currants, strawberries, grapes, citrus fruits, potatoes and a number of other vegetable crops. When feeding fruit trees, apply 100-150 g per 1 m2, for other crops - 30-50 g per 1 m2. With the dry method of application, ash should be embedded in the soil to a depth of at least 8-10 cm.

Mineral nitrogen fertilizers for feeding are used at the rate of 3-4 g per 1 m 2 active substance: 9-12 g of ammonium nitrate or 15-20 g of ammonium sulfate per 10 liters of water. Nitrogen alone should not be applied if there are signs of fungal or bacterial infection. Foliar feeding (spraying) during nitrogen starvation gives quick effect: 0.5% urea solution (50 g per 10 l of water).

Mineral potassium fertilizers for feeding are used at the rate of 4 g per 1 m 2 of active substance: 8 g of potassium chloride per 10 liters of water. You can replace potassium with wood ash at the rate of 80 g per 1 m2. It is better to apply potash fertilizers when seeds, fruits, bulbs and tubers form. Foliar feeding of plants can be carried out with a solution of potassium salt at the rate of 50 g per 10 liters of water.

In case of phosphorus starvation, plants can be quickly fed with superphosphate or complex fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) before the flowering phase. Then mulch the soil with peat and then embed it into the soil. Foliar feeding of trees (spraying) is carried out using a superphosphate solution (50 g per 10 l of water). On acidic soils, it is better to replace superphosphate with phosphorite.

To quickly improve the health of trees or shrubs, fertilizing with potassium monophosphate (20 g per 10 liters of water) is suitable. The solution is watered around the tree trunks. Plants quickly absorb fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium. It is advisable to feed the plants with mineral complex fertilizer or semi-rotted manure after 2 weeks.

Calcium fertilizing, provided the soil acidity is normal, can be carried out with calcium sulfate, superphosphate or calcium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Magnesium foliar feeding plants are treated after flowering with a solution of magnesium sulfate (20 g per 10 liters of water) or wood ash. If plants are starved of magnesium, spraying should be repeated up to 4 times with an interval of 10 days. Foliar feeding with magnesium gives a greater effect, since magnesium fertilizers applied to the soil will begin to act only after 2 years.

❧ To feed fruit trees and shrubs with humus by filling the trunk hole, 3-4 medium bags of material are used per plant. Although gardeners often determine the dosage of natural organic fertilizers on their own, based on their personal experience.

Fertilizing plants with iron-containing fertilizers can be done in two ways. In September, add quickly decomposing organic fertilizers (humus) or any other acidifying fertilizer to the soil and at the same time stop adding substances containing calcium. Fruit trees in spring you can water it with a 1% solution of iron sulfate.

For foliar feeding, carried out 2-3 times in the spring, the following iron-containing preparations are used: a solution of complex fertilizer “Kemira Universal 2” (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) or a solution of iron sulfate (50 g per 10 liters of water). However, ferrous sulfate (ferrous sulfate) must be used with great caution, as exceeding the dose can cause leaf burns.

Top dressing fruit plants manganese helps to increase yield, increase the sugar content of fruits and berries. For foliar feeding, plants are sprayed with a solution of manganese sulfate, the concentration of which depends on the period: before bud break, 500 g per 10 l of water, after - 10 g per 10 l of water.

If it is necessary to reduce the lime content in the soil, physiologically acidic fertilizers are applied: peat, leaf or coniferous litter, potassium sulfate or ammonium sulfate, etc.

Foliar feeding (spraying) of flowering crops with boron-containing preparations helps to increase yield. During mountain fasting at the beginning of summer, plants should be sprayed with a solution of boric acid (5 g per 10 liters of water). Good source boron is also wood ash, so during the growing season you can sprinkle ash on the soil around the bush and then embed it to the required depth.

Additional copper fertilizing is not required for plants that are regularly sprayed in the spring with copper-containing preparations as part of the prevention of fungal diseases. You just need to turn Special attention for tomatoes, which are very responsive to the addition of copper and sometimes need additional amounts of this trace element. You can compensate for copper deficiency by adding copper sulfate in the form of a solution (10 g per 10 liters of water).

This perennial tuberous plant from the Solanaceae family very intensively consumes nutrients from the soil, since its roots are not very developed and the tubers grow large.

It is necessary to fertilize the soil before planting, during the growing season, and after harvesting in order to compensate the potatoes for the energy costs of growing the crop.

How and when to fertilize and with what fertilizers?

culture in different terms , pursuing specific goals with each application of fertilizers.

Before landing

Fertilizers applied when preparing a bed for potatoes improve the germination of tubers, help the development of a powerful root system, and accelerate the growth of the plant, regardless of the nutrition of the mother tuber.

Potato fertilizers are needed in larger quantities than the plant can absorb, since not all nutrients reach the bush: some of the fertilizers are taken up by weeds, some dissolve in the ground.

Fertilizers for potatoes before planting are applied in autumn and spring.:

  • In autumn - on square meter plot 6 buckets of fresh manure or humus, 30–35 g of superphosphate, 15–20 g of potassium sulfate. Fresh manure will rot over the winter, superphosphate releases nutrients quite slowly and has time to be absorbed into the soil.
  • In spring it is necessary to take away excess moisture from the potato plot (forming ridges or digging ditches to drain water along its border) and provide it with nitrogen (found in large quantities in manure).

Spring feeding options:

  • a bucket of manure, 20–30 g of ammonium nitrate, potassium sulfate and nitrophoska;
  • a bucket of manure, 50–60 g of nitrophoska and a glass of ash;
  • 10 kg of manure, 20 g of potassium sulfate and ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate and dolomite flour according to the instructions (depending on the acidity of the soil).

Organic fertilizers can be infected with pests, so when fertilizing you can only get by: in the fall - one part of double superphosphate and two parts of potassium sulfate, in the spring - 3 kg of nitroammophosphate per hundred square meters.

Upon landing

It is very important to choose the right fertilizers when planting, since the harvest depends on their quantity and quality. They need to be added into the holes, and not throughout the entire area, then the plants will receive the maximum amount of nutrients.

Necessary fertilizers (amount per hole):

  • rotted manure - 200–250 g, can be applied together with mineral fertilizers;
  • chicken manure solution (prepared at a rate of 1:15, 1 liter is added to the well);
  • plant waste - half a liter per hole, placed under the tubers and on top of them, can be applied along with mineral fertilizers;
  • wood ash 150–200 g, cannot be mixed with other fertilizers;
  • complex mineral fertilizers - Kemira potato (15–20 g per plant), nitrophoska (20 g per hole).

Adding fertilizer to the hole: step-by-step instructions

You can plant potatoes manually or using a walk-behind tractor/special planter. Tubers for planting are pre-germinated.

After germination

After the sprouts appear and reach a height of 20–30 cm, the potatoes are hilled up. So that the procedure brings more benefit, the plant needs to be fed before it.

You can use chicken manure:

  1. Pour one part of the litter into 15 parts of water.
  2. Let it brew for 24 hours.
  3. Feed in an amount of 1 liter per bush after abundant watering.

Mineral fertilizer is also suitable:

  1. Dissolve 20 g of urea in a bucket of water.
  2. Water the potatoes at the root (1 liter per plant).

Read more about how to feed potatoes during and after planting in a hole, and in you will find even more recommendations for applying fertilizers during these periods.

Before flowering

Top dressing accelerates the growth of tops, adds nutrients to the soil to replace those already consumed by the plant, and increases the potato's resistance to late blight, scab and other diseases.

During this period, you should not apply nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise you may end up with powerful tops and small tubers.

Before flowering, the plant needs potassium and phosphorus.:

  • 20 g of potassium sulfate, 60 g of ash per bucket of water;
  • 60 g of superphosphate per bucket of water.

The required amount of fertilizer is applied at the root.

Root and foliar methods

It is important to distinguish between root and foliar (by leaves) fertilizing of potatoes, since they have different purposes and different application times.

Enough was said about root fertilizer at the beginning of the article, so let’s dwell in more detail on the composition and features of applying foliar fertilizers. Fertilizer is applied during active leaf growth and flowering..

Foliar

Potato flowering is also the time of tuber formation. When the bushes fade, new tubers will no longer form.

It is important to organize feeding of the plant with the following composition:

  • a teaspoon each of ammonium nitrate and potassium chloride;
  • a tablespoon of superphosphate;
  • a quarter teaspoon of copper sulfate to prevent fungal diseases.

Apply the finished fertilizer as follows:

  1. All components are dissolved in warm water in an amount of 10 liters, leave for 3 hours.
  2. Add another 1 liter of water and pour into a spray bottle.
  3. Spray the potatoes on the leaves.

During the period of active tuber growth, potatoes are fertilized:

  • manganese (improves the taste of potatoes);
  • boron (increases the density of tubers).

It is best to use specialized granular fertilizer "Mag-Bor":

  1. Dissolve a tablespoon of granules in a bucket of water.
  2. Mix thoroughly.
  3. Spray the potato bush after the leaves are fully formed at the rate of 10 liters of solution per 3 m2 of planting.

When applying foliar fertilizing, it is important to follow certain rules:

  • You can spray only in cloudy weather to avoid burning wet leaves;
  • process only grown healthy bushes, since the area of ​​their leaf plates is larger and the leaf density is less;
  • feed more often early varieties, since they react more intensely to foliar feeding.

In August, the plant is fed with superphosphate (400 g per hundred square meters). It accelerates the delivery of nutrients to the tubers. The granules are evenly scattered around each potato bush, and then the plantings are watered (so that the fertilizer dissolves in the ground).

After harvest

Potatoes are crops that take a lot of nutrients from the soil. In addition, crop rotation in relation to it is most often impossible, so after harvesting it is necessary to restore the fertility of the field for future plantings. For this purpose, green manure is planted.

The ideal green manure for this crop would be mustard. It builds up vegetative mass in just three weeks. When frost comes, the mustard sprouts will die, and in the spring they can be planted in the ground as fertilizer.

Useful video

We invite you to watch a video about when and how to fertilize potatoes:

Conclusion

Potatoes are grown throughout our country. The soil composition and climate for planting potatoes differ in different areas. Conditions are not favorable for culture everywhere. However, both mineral and organic, will allow you to get high yield in any region where this delicious vegetable is grown.

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Planting, care, watering

​Cucumbers have weak roots; they do not penetrate deeper than 20 cm, so the properties of the soil have a special influence on them. As fertilizers, you can add manure, rotted garbage, peat, straw, or sawdust to the soil; it is advisable to enrich these additives with nitrogen. Mineral fertilizers will also not interfere with the growth of cucumbers in a greenhouse.​

For a good tasty harvest, tomatoes need to be fertilized. From the beginning of seedling picking until flowering, feed the tomatoes with mineral fertilizers, and when fruits appear, feed them with potash fertilizers. It would be correct to use granular long acting fertilizers that need to be mixed with the soil before planting seedlings, and after the berries set, use special fertilizers for tomatoes, for example: seaweed extract.​

Diseases, pests, what to do and how to fertilize tomatoes

- destroy affected tomatoes;

​At the site where the tomato is planted, the soil needs to be prepared in the fall: add garden compost, ash, eggshells. It is better to grow tomatoes through seedlings, that is, in early spring, plant the seeds at home, and then plant the grown seedlings in the ground. Before planting tomatoes, you need to warm up the beds; you should plant them when there is already an established positive temperature, and install supports.​

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​Preparing the garden in spring​

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How to fertilize cucumbers in the garden and greenhouse

- do not plant tomatoes next to potatoes;

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​phosphorus preparations – 250 grams;​

How to fertilize cucumbers in a greenhouse

​bird droppings or fresh manure can burn the roots of some plants.​

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​Spring fertilizer for the garden

​This year you can only spill the soil with phytosporin or potassium permanganate. Basically, potatoes are afraid of late blight, from which we actually try to protect potatoes, and scab is also a fungal disease.​

Mustard, phacelia, vetch-oat mixture. As soon as it gets warm (a month before planting cultivated plants), sow. So much for crop rotation. It is not necessary to sow just one thing, you can mix the seeds and each will add something different to the soil))​

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​ IMPORTANT: If the soil is sandy, then it requires nitrogen fertilizers, and if it is floodplain, then it is better to take potassium fertilizers.​

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How to fertilize cucumbers when planting

- weed the beds;

​Tomatoes are susceptible to various diseases and can be attacked various pests. The most common diseases: fungal infections, late blight, blossom end rot, brown spot, tobacco mosaic.​

Potassium preparations (can be replaced with wood ash) – 200 grams.

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How to fertilize the soil so that after potatoes you can plant nightshades (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants)?

MaryM

If warming comes after a long cold spell, be sure to add ammonium nitrate to the soil. Initially, add it to the grooves, and then pour plenty of water.​

Nellya Alpatova (Yatkevich)

​On soil well fertilized with organic matter, cucumbers grow much better and begin to bear fruit faster, since it contains large quantities of micronutrients. About twenty percent of minerals enter cucumbers during the flowering period until the first ovaries appear. The remaining seventy percent occurs during the fertile period. Therefore, even if cold weather has begun, cucumbers need to be watered often and fed through the leaves.

Serafima Arkadyevna

- you can work (pruning, pinching, shaping) only with dry plants;

Rosa Zueva

​Therefore it follows:​

Alla Lebedeva

​B summer period When plant growth is most intense, fertilizing the soil is repeated, but the dose is reduced by 3 times. It is very convenient to add nutrients through a drip irrigation system - this way you will certainly not go wrong with the dosage, and all plants will receive the same dose.​

Husky

​It is desirable that the granules are located at a depth of about 20 cm. Thus, all useful substances will be very close to the root system.​

Olga

​In addition to numerous advantages, natural fertilizers have several disadvantages:

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