Do-it-yourself technology for installing plastic windows. Removing a window in the bathroom Poor quality fastening of the PVC window to the wall

If you or someone you know has previously used the services of companies installing double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, the quality will be much higher than in the first (you can read more about the standards in GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! Manufacturers do not provide a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. At incorrect installation the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, the structure simply will not fit into the opening.

However, if you study all the intricacies of the process, then no difficulties will arise during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.

Video - Installation of PVC windows according to GOST

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ brick, hence the name) that prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be covered with special covers. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the internal and external widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.

1. First, the width of the opening is determined (the distance between the slopes). It is recommended to remove the plaster for a more accurate result.
2. Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope above and the window sill).

Note! The measurements must be repeated several times and the lowest result taken.

To determine the width of the window, subtract two from the width of the opening installation gap. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.

The symmetry and straightness of the opening are checked, for which a mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm to the existing drainage for bending. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to subsequent finishing of the facade).

The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the width of the opening is added to the size of the overhang, and the width of the frame is subtracted from the resulting figure. Regarding the offset, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.

Note! measured after installation is complete.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, where all the necessary fittings will be selected. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:

In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached as a whole. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after delivery of the ordered windows. Released first workplace, all furniture is covered plastic film(there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, the glass unit is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly pryed with a staple and pulled out. First of all, the vertical beads are removed, then the horizontal ones. They must be numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.

Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the “ventilation mode” (in the center), the window is opened slightly and removed. All that remains is the frame with imposts.

Note! Imposts are special jumpers designed to separate the sashes.

Then you need to make a marking for the anchors and make holes along it - two on the bottom/top and three on each side. To do this, you will need ø1 cm anchors and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is not dense (for example, cellular concrete), then the fastening is carried out using anchor suspensions. The latter should be fixed to the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces for each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled the day before installation. This way the element will not freeze.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out along with the fastening, and if necessary, the frame can be sawed.

Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed and the cement layer underneath is cleaned off.

Step 4. Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer material (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.

Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒC. Polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installation of a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to level the structure), only after this is it fastened to the wall. You can leave the backings - they will serve as additional fasteners.

Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install a low sill with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.

Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which a mounting level and plumb line are used. It is typical that traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.

Step 4. If the window is level, then it is secured with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled using a hammer drill through pre-prepared holes in the structure (approximately 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final inspection. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will “skew”.

Prices for mounting foams and cleaning gun cleaners

Polyurethane foams and cleaners for construction guns

Stage 6. Drainage

From the outside, the ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.

The edges of the ebb are recessed several centimeters into the walls, having previously made indentations using a hammer drill.

Note! Before installation, the bottom gap is also sealed.

Stage 7. Window assembly

After attaching the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber hammer).

Step 2. The doors are opened and their tightness is checked. IN open position arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot happen if the window is installed level.

Step 3. The assembly seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass fogging. Before and after sealing, the seams are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled to no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead.” If everything is done correctly, after drying the foam will protrude out a few centimeters.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and material with a foil surface is used underneath.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill

Step 1. The window sill is cut so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. Subsequently, the gap is hidden by plastic

Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the window sill. It needs to be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.

Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows

conclusions

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after completion of installation (then the foam will have already “set”).

The described technology is also quite applicable to, although it also has its own nuances - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.

Find out how to do it correctly from our new article.

Almost every novice master wants to know how to install plastic window yourself. The advantages of such windows include not only performance characteristics, but also ease of installation. These designs are completed with fasteners and additional parts, so even a novice craftsman can install the windows with his own hands. However, in order to do everything correctly, you should take into account the existing nuances. First of all, it is worth noting that it is very difficult to complete the work alone, so it is recommended to hire an assistant.

Elements that will be needed to install plastic windows:

• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• polyurethane foam;
• self-tapping screws;
• anchor;
• building level;
• plumb line;
• slopes;
• windowsill;
• low tides

Before purchasing windows, you will need to take measurements of the opening, taking into account the design. It can be with or without a quarter. Quarter openings are typical for foam block construction. It is worth knowing that such designs significantly reduce heat loss.

In an opening without a quarter, it will be necessary to order windows whose length is 5 cm less than the length of the window opening. The width should be 3 cm less than the corresponding opening indicator. 1.5 cm gaps should be provided along the contour, which will need to be sealed with foam in the future. You will need to leave 3.5 cm at the bottom for the window sill.

Windows with quarter and without quarter

Windows must be ordered by adding 3 cm to the width. The length remains the same. Insulating tapes will need to be applied not to the plastic frame, but to the place where the quarters contact the PVC window. The frame should be pressed against the quarters.

In an opening without a quarter as protective and decorative elements that can prevent the influence of external factors on technical properties polyurethane foam, external and internal slopes will be used.

It should be borne in mind that the larger the gap, the greater the consumption of expensive foam. If you want to save money, gaps larger than 4 cm can be partially filled with polystyrene foam or bricks. Gaps from 1 to 4 cm are filled exclusively with foam.

In most cases, windows are not placed in the middle of the opening, but retreating 1/3 deep from the outer base.

However, those who want to mount the window themselves can use options with an offset in the direction they need. This must be taken into account when purchasing a window sill and related accessories. You will need to add approximately 5 cm to the width, which will be calculated based on the placement of the windows.

Existing frame fixation methods

The technology for installing windows will depend on the material from which the walls of the structure are built, as well as on the dimensions of the windows. Based on these factors, you need to choose a method for fixing elements.

You can secure the structures as follows:

1. Fixation with dowels, which are inserted into the wall through prepared holes in the profile.
2. Plates with teeth that will need to be pressed into the profile. The elements are not mounted into the wall, but installed sideways and fixed with screws. When the installation is complete, we foam the mounting seams and install slopes under which the anchor plates can be hidden. The space between the plane of the opening and the slope must be filled with foam. To reduce the consumption of foam, part of which will be used for additional leveling, a recess can be made under the plate.

The first method is considered the most reliable. It is used in most cases for installing heavy window structures. If the fastening is through, the window will resist various impact loads that may arise, for example, when using windows with sashes that open in several directions. Anchors that pass through the frame will allow you to adjust the structure vertically and horizontally.

Fixing the frame when installing a window

People who are interested self installation For small plastic windows with fixed double-glazed windows, the method of fixing them with anchor plates is suitable.

For installation of plates in an opening made of concrete or brick, it is recommended to prepare small recesses so that there is no need to apply an extra layer for leveling before installing the slopes.

In some cases, masters use both methods. The anchors are immersed in the walls through the side parts of the frame and the base of the structure, and the upper part is fixed with plates. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Preparing the window and opening

The opening must be cleared of dust, debris and paint residues. If plastic windows are installed in an existing opening, then upper layer need to be cut down. The foam will need to adhere firmly to this layer.

The gaps between the frame and the opening can be filled exclusively with foam.

To prepare the window, you need to do the following:

1. We release the frame from the sash. To do this, you need to remove the pin, which is mounted in the upper loop. Next, you need to carefully pick it up at the bottom. The element must be lifted and removed from the lower loop. Double-glazed windows must be removed from blind windows. To do this, you will need to remove first the longitudinal and then the transverse beads. To remove glazing beads, you need to insert a knife or spatula into the gap, and then slowly move it away. It is worth noting that a small window can be installed even without dismantling the sashes.
2. The glass unit must be leaned against the wall at an angle, then placed on level base, which is covered with cardboard. It is not allowed to install the window flat, as cracks may appear due to the impact of stones.
3. The protective film must be removed from the outer base of the frame. This will be much more difficult to do in the future, so it is recommended to remove it at this stage.
4. Finally, you need to place a place for mounting fasteners. The recommended installation step for these devices is 40 cm. If you plan to use mounting plates, they will need to be attached to the frame in advance with self-tapping screws. Holes must be made for anchors or self-tapping screws, and the drill should be placed with outside frames

Window structure after installation

Sequence of actions for installing windows

The frame will need to be inserted into the opening. First you need to lay plastic corners or small bars around the perimeter. These elements will be needed to ensure technological gap. The blades need to be moved slightly so that it is possible to clearly align the frame horizontally and vertically with equal slots. It is recommended to check the location using a building level. The blades must be placed close to the fixation point with screws or anchors.

Speaking about how to install plastic windows, it is worth knowing that installation can be done in several ways. Therefore, at this stage there will be differences. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. A self-tapping screw must be screwed into the opening of a wooden house through the recesses in the frame. IN in this case There is no need to screw the fastener all the way.
2. On foam concrete or brick walls, points should be marked through the recesses in the frame, then remove the frame and drill holes with a drill that matches the material. Then we put the frame in place and install the fastening element.
3. There is no need to perform any complex actions when installing on anchor plates. They will need to be bent so that they adjoin the place that is intended for their fastening.
4. The final fixation is carried out after checking the horizontal and vertical lines with a plumb line. There is no need to tighten the elements too much, as the frame may bend. Screwing must be completed when the head is level with the frame.
5. Parts that have been removed will need to be returned to their original location. reverse order, and then check the functionality of the product.
6. The gaps need to be filled construction foam. The seams are covered with protective tape. On the outside, the insulation tape must be recessed.
7. You need to fill the gap under the drain with foam.
8. At the next stage, the window sill is installed. Plastic construction You will need to move it under the clover a few centimeters.

IN modern conditions often old wooden window blocks are replaced with plastic ones; if we compare these two types of window structures, the latter has an undeniable advantage - wooden window with similar characteristics, it will cost about twice as much. How else can you reduce the cost of updating old windows? Install the plastic window yourself.

A plastic window is not much different from its wooden counterpart in its main components. The basis of the window structure is the frame, it is made of plastic profiles with reinforced metal inserts. Elements for fixing and fastening the sashes are installed on the frame. Sami window sashes, are made from similar profiles equipped with locking mechanisms and switching opening methods.

In comparison with previous models, standard modern window units do not contain individual glasses, but assembled double-glazed units consisting of several glass sheets. Such glass packages are usually called one- or two-chamber, etc.

The gaps between the frame and the opening sash are closed by protrusions of profiles and with the help of sealing gaskets.

Installing plastic windows yourself will require compliance with safety measures, in particular during the dismantling of old window structures. Be extremely careful and attentive, do not drop heavy elements down and, of course, do not fall out of the opening yourself! It would be logical to fence off the space under the windows with a cord with red fabric alarms, or to place an assistant below on “guard” so that a part or tool that “accidentally” falls out does not cause injury to passers-by.

Tool for installing a plastic window

You will need - a hammer, a mounting tool, pliers, a hammer drill, a hacksaw, and a large slotted screwdriver. Also, a Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver, stationery knife. You absolutely need a tape measure, a building level and a gun for working with polyurethane foam, or a regular can with a plastic tube for foaming.

Installing a plastic window with your own hands. Preparation

Before installing the window, you need to perform a couple of operations, namely, determine the dimensions of the future window, and dismantle old design. General rules The definitions of the dimensions of a new window are as follows: window opening there are quarters, then the window must overlap by 10-15 mm; if there are no quarters in the window opening, then it is necessary to leave a gap of 1-1.5 cm between the edges of the opening and the window structure.

To install a new window, you must, of course, dismantle the old one. To do this, you need tools such as a pry bar, large pliers, and a slotted screwdriver. It is better to sharpen the tip of the screwdriver; it is useful for removing glazing beads, deforming the wooden sheet near the nail heads, for easier removal with a nail puller, etc. In addition, you will need a heavy hammer and chisel. Among the power tools, a hammer drill may be useful.

First you need to remove the window sashes. To do this, you need to open them and remove them from their hinges with an upward movement. However, if the sashes are stuck, it is better to first remove the glass from them for safety reasons. In order for the sash to come off its hinges, you need to move it from side to side with a small amplitude, and at the same time press it from bottom to top with a pry bar. In the worst case scenario, you will have to knock off the hinges by prying them up with a screwdriver. It is more convenient to do this with reverse side frames After removing the sashes, we remove the external window sill.

Now we begin to dismantle the frame and window sill board. As a rule, the frame is adjacent to cement slopes. If you don’t need it in the future, then it can be removed without knocking down the slopes, however, since when installing a new window structure, the slopes will still create an obstacle, it is better to cut them down right away. It’s easier to do this with a hammer drill, or tinker with a chisel and hammer. Once the slopes are cut down, removing the frame is not at all difficult. But if the frame does not budge, it is probably attached to the window sill board with nails, or sewn to the walls with metal anchors.

Window sills on old windows are often “stone”, made of concrete, or artificial stone, as well as wooden ones. During installation, they were pushed under the frame and supported by plaster and plaster. To remove them, a pry bar and a hammer are enough. Dismantling concrete ones, however, will be complicated by their large weight, so get helpers for removal.

Upon completion of dismantling the window unit, the opening must be cleared of waterproofing, pieces of mortar, insulation residues and other construction debris.

How to install a plastic window with your own hands

After preparatory work, we proceed directly to installing the plastic window. Special anchors in the form of plates are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws. More often, one on top and two on the sides. The fastening anchors look similar to a direct suspension for fastening gypsum boards. By the way, they can also be used if standard anchors are not available. The fasteners are installed so that they protrude from inside. Afterwards, install the installation profile at the bottom of the window opening.

A little information, all the elements are attached to the edges of the opening in this way: a hole is made in the wall using a hammer drill, into which a plastic dowel is inserted, for subsequent screwing in the screw. For drilling, take a drill with a diameter of 0.8 cm.

The window frame is installed on the mounting profile and secured in the opening using wooden wedges. This is one of the most important stages of work. Using a building level and wedges, we position the frame in two planes strictly vertically. The distances from the walls to the frame must be the same. When all manipulations are completed, the frame is rigidly fixed using anchors in the opening.

Half the way has been completed. Now, you need to hang the sashes on the pins fixed to the frame. If necessary, you can use the adjusting screws to adjust the windows yourself, although usually they are already set in the correct position.

How to install a plastic window with your own hands

The next step is the installation of the window sill board. We check the size and make adjustments if necessary. The board must fit well under window frame all the way into the installation profile. Plugs are placed on the edges of the window sill boards. Standard plugs usually fit well onto the profile, but for reliability, you can secure them with glue (it’s better to take instant glue in disposable tubes; one tube should be enough for two plugs).

To cut the board, use a jigsaw or a hacksaw with a small tooth. After adjusting the board, install and fix it from below using wooden wedges in increments of 300-400 mm. By knocking out the wedges, we achieve a tight fit of the board to the bottom of the window. If you have wide window sill with a projection from the wall exceeding 200 mm, then L-shaped support brackets are mounted from below for rigidity.

In places where side plugs are installed, remove protective film which serves to protect the panel from scratches, as well as where the window sill goes under window unit. The film covering the main plane does not need to be touched yet.

After installing all the elements of the window, you need to once again check its verticality, whether the sashes open, etc. If everything is in order, we close the sashes and fill the space between the window opening and the frame with polyurethane foam. To do this, it is better to take a special gun and a bottle of professional polyurethane foam, but you can also use regular foam, with a removable plastic tube. The foam is applied taking into account that its volume will increase by approximately 2 - 2.5 times.

To prevent the window sill from standing on end due to the expansion of the foam, special clamps are used, but to do without them, it is enough to place a board on the windowsill and place several containers of water on top. Then, as the foam hardens, the squeezed-out excess is removed, and the load is removed from the windowsill.

Companies that install plastic windows, during installation, also install a drip on the outside, we can also do this, but it must be taken into account that if the window opening has the required external slope on its outer side, then the mounted drip will fit perfectly on it. And if it is not there, then the ebb will hang in the air and will rattle from gusts of strong wind, as a result of which, it makes sense to prepare a seat for it and make the ebb at the same time as making the slopes. That's it, do-it-yourself installation of a plastic window is completed. Good luck with your renovation!

How to install a plastic window with your own hands video

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Company employees who do this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of “professionals”. They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky to find truly masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not, take a weekend and install it yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an understanding of window design. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the very big cell, insert visible of blue color. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, use the standard class. In economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment they are installed. Premium has a high price due to options that, in fact, are not needed.

If you want to have best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. Particular differences between products different companies No. They have long been standardized and all managers’ stories about the advantages are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Profiles for windows in standard version have White color, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - to order. Windows made from colored profiles are more expensive than similar white ones.

Window structure

To understand what we're talking about in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

• Frames. This is the base of the window.
• If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is made of two parts, there is one impost; If there are three parts, there are two, etc.
• The opening part of the window is called the sash, the stationary part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically sealed together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses to ensure tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows with inert gas pumped between the glass panes. It also reduces heat loss.
• Double-glazed windows are pressed to the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured rubber seal(it is usually black).
• Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
• To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - frame, impost and sashes.

Down on outside frame (the one facing the street) is drainage holes, which are closed with special caps. Through them, condensation that forms inside due to the difference in temperature outside and indoors is discharged outside.

The window also has a sill - a board on the outside that removes precipitation and a window sill on the inside. Side and top parts from the street and indoors. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. To measure everything correctly, you need to determine whether your window opening is made with a quarter or without.

Inspect the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Transmit the height as it is.

If the opening is smooth, the calculation proceeds differently. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides under polyurethane foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed on top, and 3.5 cm on the bottom will be used to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “recessed” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the tides is standard, so the nearest larger one is chosen. On window sills the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like them wide so they can put something, others prefer them flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether there is a capercaillie or not, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you are replacing windows, installing plastic windows yourself begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking does not build. After dismantling, it is necessary to inspect the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - using a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, all construction debris must be removed. Ideally, sweep everything away, even the dust, otherwise during installation the foam will not “grab” well on the wall.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them with cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. If the wall material is loose, they can be treated with binding compounds: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame and anchors are driven through them into the wall. This method is more complicated, but the fastening is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt installation. There are three of them on each side.

When installing without unpacking, attach to the frame from the outside metal plates, and then - to the walls. This is naturally faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: under significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are often used when installing a rafter system.

In principle, small windows installed on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building on high floor— in these cases, installation with unpacking is necessary.

Below, watch an emotional and intelligible video that explains why it is better to use anchors.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, load bearing capacity which are small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window must stand in the soft layer, then it will need to be secured with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation and unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Afterwards you can start working. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
            • Close the window (the handle is turned down).
            • Filming plastic linings on both loops. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
            • There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. They press on him until he drowns (you can take metal plate, rest it against the pin and lightly tap the plate). The pin will slide out from below. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and pull it down and pull it out.
            • Hold the door up and open the lock. To do this, place the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part towards you slightly, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.

            The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
            

         2. On the wood grouse, remove the glass unit. It is held in place by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without any problems. Remove the glazing beads like this:
            • Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you don't have a special tool, it's best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins from one of the long sides.
            • The spatula is carefully pushed into the crack with a corner and the glazing bead is gradually moved away from the frame.
            • Without removing the tool, move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead to the side.
            • This goes along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated; it is simply removed.
            • With the short side, everything is simpler: you pry up the free edge and, by turning the spatula, remove it from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.

            Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If that doesn't work, remove another one of the beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.

      1. The freed frame is covered with a special self-adhesive tape along the outer perimeter. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With it the window doesn't get so cold.

         

      2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
      3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. The position of the window is pre-fixed. This is what you can use mounting plates for.

         

      4. Take a drill and a drill bit that matches the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm retreat from the top edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. Between them in standard window install another anchor: maximum distance There should not be more than 700 mm between two fastenings.
      5. Having made a hole, check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot overtighten: the profile should not sag. Repeat this operation required amount once.

         

      6. Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first outer part Vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued onto the frame (it is self-adhesive). Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.

         

      7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is placed under the projection of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

         

      8. Along the lower edge the ebb also foams.

         

      9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
      10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the contour of the frame - it is also recommended by GOST.
      11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps to 2/3 of the volume. If the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is 2/3 filled.

          

          When installing PVC windows with your own hands, foaming can be done in several stages - depending on the size of the gap

      12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar will not “stick” to it.
      13. Assemble all parts of the window. There are only Finishing work, and they are not a hindrance.
      14. It is also installed under the window sill at the bottom vapor barrier tape(also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of hard wood treated with impregnation. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5°).

          

Watch the video to learn how to correctly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The last to be installed or sealed are the slopes. One more video on this matter.

Installation without unpacking

The main details are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal ones.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchors: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then installing plastic windows with your own hands with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is leveled in the opening. Only they attach not the frame, but the plates, and not to anchors, but to dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert a dowel, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel. Further all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: a decent amount of work is spent on disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than an anchor. For example, like in the video.

In houses old building, nostalgically called Khrushchev-era apartments, there is a window between the bathroom and the kitchen. Apartment owners compete in wits, making guesses about the purpose of this small window. But this does not make the problem any less - the window not only looks strange modern interior, but also takes up part usable area walls, interfering with the placement of cabinets and shelves on both sides. What to do with this “porthole”: seal it tightly or turn it into design detail?

The easiest way to get rid of a window is if you plan to decorate the walls plastic panels or level with drywall. With this finishing you won’t even need to fill in the opening – it will be reliably hidden from view finishing materials, and nothing will remind you of the old design.

Plastic panels will help you quickly get rid of outdated windows

Brick or foam blocks

Tired window from the bathroom to the kitchen in brick wall It’s easy to lay it with bricks or cheaper and lighter foam blocks. This method is ideal in cases where it is planned to hang heavy cabinets in place of the opening - a strong wall will withstand any load. First of all, you will need to dismantle the glass and frame, removing all wooden elements from the opening. Before laying the brick, the walls must be leveled with thick cement mortar and allowed to set. Bricks are laid on cement mortar, and for foam blocks you can use special adhesives. The remaining gaps are filled with fine scrap and rubbed down on both sides with cement. After filling the opening with building materials, the wall is plastered, leveled and covered with finishing.

Brick laying is a major option for eliminating the window between the bathroom and kitchen.

Moisture-resistant plasterboard

If you just need to improve appearance walls, and furniture fastenings will not end up in the place of the window, it can simply be sealed moisture-resistant plasterboard. To do this, a frame made of metal profiles and then screwed to the frame plasterboard sheets. To prevent noise from the bathroom from disturbing the silence in the kitchen, it is recommended to fill the void with mineral wool.

Work begins with the complete dismantling of the window frame

Cement mortar

Another method of closing the opening tightly is to seal it with cement mortar. For this method, you do not have to dismantle the frame - you just need to remove the trim and glass. A chipboard frame is attached to the remaining frame, and a plaster mesh. Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to make a thicker cement mortar than usual and add a little gypsum for quick setting. The solution is applied using the method of “throwing” small portions; to obtain the result, at least 5-6 stages will be required. Dried layer cement mortar level with a grater, then cover with a solution diluted with water, and again treat the area with a grater. The result is perfect smooth surface, which will remain hidden under the finishing material.

Practical niche on the bathroom side

To make the most of every centimeter of usable space in your bathroom, you can turn an unattractive window into a beautiful and functional niche. To do this, the window opening is sealed with plasterboard from the kitchen side, and in the bathroom the recess is leveled with cement mortar and covered with the same tiles as the entire room. If you don’t like a small niche, nothing prevents you from dismantling part of the wall and enlarging the opening, which will create a spacious niche with shelves. Oval shapes look beautiful, which can be easily created using drywall.

A practical shelf or a decorative niche – it’s up to you.

For beauty and comfort, it is recommended to supplement the niche with lighting, and to expand the space back wall the recesses can be lined with mirror tiles or tiles with a 3D pattern. If desired, it is easy to turn a new interior detail into a cabinet by adding glass doors or curtains-blinds.

Modernizing the window from the kitchen to the bathroom: new life for a boring opening

For those who do not want to part with the window opening, considering it an indispensable source of light in the bathroom, there are many options for transforming a Soviet-era window into a modern designer window that decorates the interior. The easiest way is to replace plain glass with stained glass; it will fill the bathroom with colored highlights and create a rainbow mood. The old platbands will also have to be dismantled and beautiful polyurethane baguettes installed instead.

A bright highlight for a good mood

Instead of stained glass, glass blocks can be used to seal the window opening; working with them is no different from brickwork, and the design of both rooms will only benefit. If possible, it is recommended to widen the window opening a little, for example, to make a spectacular window from glass blocks along the entire length of the wall.

Modern glass blocks do not spoil the interior and fit into any design

By enlarging the window opening, you can beautifully beat up a boring window

If the window from the kitchen to the bathroom does not bother anyone, then you can leave it in its original place, replacing it with a modern plastic double-glazed window suitable color. It is recommended to make the window openable - this will provide additional ventilation and protect against mold and mildew in the bathroom.

A plastic window does not spoil the modern interior at all

If you can’t seal the window between the bathroom and the kitchen on your own, then this problem should be entrusted to specialists. In a matter of hours they will erase an unattractive opening from the face of the wall or give it a gift new life in the form of a niche or a modern window. In some cases, the main thing is the result, and it is better to shift the boring process onto the shoulders of others.