A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at heights and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.
Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.
They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. “Goat” scaffolds are usually called low portable tables that can accommodate no more than two people.
If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for the work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.
Scaffolding design options
Despite the wide variety of species scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:
- Vertical posts (accept the work load and transfer it to the ground).
- Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
- Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
- Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders).
- Persistent slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over).
- Railings (protect workers from falling).
- Stairs (used for ascent and descent from work platforms).
The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than a steel one, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.
Scaffolding made of metal are several times more expensive than wooden ones, but have no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.
If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.
Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands
Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should make a schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.
There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of scaffolding:
- maximum height of the structure – 6 meters;
- distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
- The width of the working floor is 1 meter.
Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder’s hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This will save you from having to put together low scaffolding.
It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.
If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:
- For cutting racks and thrust braces - timber with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm.
- Spacers, ties and railings can be made from 30-gauge edged boards.
- For the flooring and the lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.
When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for making small forests We can recommend the use of nails, and for long and tall structures - self-tapping screws.
Scaffolding from boards is assembled in the following order:
- on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards, cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding;
- the racks are connected by horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid;
- the two resulting “ladder” frames are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
- a flooring made of boards is placed on the horizontal lintels and secured;
- the scaffolding is fixed on two side bevels;
- Railings are nailed to the racks, the ladder is placed and fixed for climbing.
If there is a need to install two or more sections wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide pieces of boards, stuffing them onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before nailing.
Scaffolding from profile pipe their design is similar to that of wood. The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the number of storeys of a metal structure.
A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:
- Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
- Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties).
- Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for the manufacture of adapters and bearings). To make railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
- Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
- 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties together and securing them to the frame posts.
The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:
- Scaffolding posts are rigidly fixed to the assembly panel (OSB sheet) with clamps ( high accuracy when working with metal – a very important factor);
- horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
- adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks 5 cm and fixed by welding;
- having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the board with clamps;
- ends and middle thin-walled pipes, intended for diagonal stretch marks, are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled into them;
- Having tightened two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and the places for drilling holes are marked;
- the couplers are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
- holes are drilled on the posts and railings for bolted connections;
- plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe sections;
- the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
- Flooring from “magpie” boards is laid on the side lintels.
Helpful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring, you need to screw 30x30 mm steel corners to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.
Diagonal ties must be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.
If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then in its racks it is necessary to make holes for attaching a profile pipe of a thrust bevel, which protects the structure from falling.
In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when extending the scaffolding in length).
If you need to carry out work on the facade, you will not need scaffolding.
They are temporary structures and represent metal constructions, which are used in construction, finishing and restoration work on buildings and structures. The advantage of these structures is that their installation and dismantling is carried out directly on construction sites. If necessary, the structure can be easily moved along the wall. In addition, construction scaffolding is a convenient structure for temporary use, on which you can perform work related to the facade: insulation, finishing, painting. Can be done minor work for restoration of wooden window frames, make slopes for window openings.
Not only professional builders, but also many ordinary summer residents, as well as owners of private houses and country cottages need to purchase scaffolding with removable decking (scaffolding) - after all, when there is a need to tint the roof gables or update facade finishing at home, you may need not just a ladder or stepladder, but something more serious.
Scaffolding on “envelopes” has recently become a fairly popular option that you can make yourself. As you can see in the photographs below, such construction scaffolding has a wide range of applications, from production brickwork before finishing works. Due to the simplicity and low cost of their design, you can easily organize scaffolding on required height and perform painting, whitewashing, surface restoration, window cleaning, installation of slopes and trim, etc.
Why is this option popular among builders?
The main advantage is that the scaffolding can be made independently. In this case, not a lot of building material is spent. Well, and a plus to everything: simplicity and ease of assembly/disassembly of the structure. Having completed the work, they are disassembled and stored until better times in a secluded corner of the barn.
What are scaffoldings with “envelopes” made of?
“Envelope” is a scaffold that represents a support platform in the form of a triangle. The supports are made from various lumber that are available on the construction site, for example, edged boards. The main thing is that the board is strong, with a minimum cross-section of 50x50 mm. (see figure No. 1).
Rice. 1, Supporting platform - “envelope”. 1 — L-shaped bracket; 2 - jib.
Then, it is necessary to build L-shaped brackets - the boards are knocked down, after which the sides are sheathed with wooden slats.
The dimensions of the site must be constructed based on the safe operation of the structure. The support platform is not large in size, it is quite inconvenient to work with, and you will also have to move it often. Having made the scaffolding large area, you may expose yourself to a traumatic situation, there is a possibility of envelopes being torn off the wall. Taking this into account, the size of the platform must be calculated in this way: the size of a human foot is on average 350-400 mm, taking this size of the horizontal platforms of the scaffolding, a person can stand with a full foot, without fear of falling from a height.
Now that the scaffolding is ready, the support platform is secured, all that remains is to install it at the required height so that you can reach the required level. You will also need a couple of supports, you can use them edged board 150x50 mm. Before installing them, the supports must be made sharp at the base so that they rest against the ground, and the upper ends along the contour of the “envelope” cornerslightly beveled for a tight fit, as shown in Fig. 2.
Rice. 2 Installation of scaffolding: 1 - support-slightly; 2 - “envelope”; 3 - flooring boards; 4 - supporting surface.
Then, after the “envelope” flooring is raised to the required height, it must be secured. The vertical part of the L-shaped bracket should be nailed to the wall using regular long nails. It is advisable to not drive the nails all the way in, otherwise it will be difficult to remove them when dismantling.
Now you can lift and install the flooring itself. The boards are laid at the required height and nailed to the horizontal shelf of the brackets. The nails in these places can be driven completely into the boards, this will make the structure more durable.
Advice: To make the nails easier to get out, they can be driven into the boards through thin slats-spacers; when dismantling, they are simply split with a nail puller.
!Attention Be careful when working at heights. Follow safety precautions on. Remember that when making construction scaffolds yourself, you need to check the strength of each of the structural components.
Wood is one of the simplest and most inexpensive to process. building materials. Making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is quite simple. The production of scaffolding will consist of 5 successive stages, after completing which you will receive a structure completely ready for work. Tools required for work:
Wooden scaffolding is much cheaper to make yourself than to buy in specialized stores.
- screwdriver;
- plane;
- drill;
- wood hacksaw;
- roulette.
Preparation and selection of materials
The design of scaffolding is such that several types of wood must be used for different parts. In order to prepare the load-bearing supports, you will need a beam measuring at least 10x10 cm, otherwise you will not be able to carry out heavy work with such scaffolding. The platforms themselves are made of fairly thick boards (preferably at least 50 mm thick). The stiffening ribs are made from boards from 25 mm in thickness. It should be remembered that the wood used must be treated by special means, protecting the material from rotting and mold. It is desirable that there are no cracks or knots in the material, then the scaffolding will last longer. For safety reasons, fencing slats can also be added to the structure.
Calculation of frame dimensions and start of collection
Scheme of wooden scaffolding.
In construction, there are restrictions on the minimum permissible width of scaffolding; it must be at least 50 cm. The recommended length of scaffolding is 3-4 m, and the safe height should not exceed 6 m, otherwise the scaffolding may tip over during operation. When selecting material for timber supports, preference should be given to solid rather than composite timber, as this will increase the strength of the future product. To increase the stability of the entire structure, it is better to make the end sides at a converging angle.
Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be assembled from small quantity materials. At the beginning of the first stage, two six-meter support beams are placed on a horizontal surface. The distance between them is equal to the planned length of the future structure. Two similar beams are laid side by side in the same way. In this case, the upper ends of the beam pair should converge slightly, i.e. if the distance between the lower ends of the pair is 3 m, then the distance between the upper ends should be 2.4 m. This is necessary to increase the stability of the structure. Next, the sidewalls are attached to the support beams, which will serve as support for the decking (regular self-tapping screws are used for fastening). The supports should be mounted with inside. There will be 4 timber sidewalls in total, since it is not recommended to make scaffolding higher than three “floors”. Three sidewalls will be used for flooring, and one, the bottom one, will be used to strengthen the strength.
Connection into a single structure and final installation
Next, you need to connect the side trapezoids obtained at the previous stage with side crossbars. If you nevertheless decide to assemble the scaffolding with your own hands, then in order to avoid injuries and loss of accuracy when joining, this operation should be done by two or three people. It should be remembered that stable wooden scaffolding should be pyramidal in shape, but the toe-in angle should not be large. The side cross members are fastened with self-tapping screws, this is justified by the fact that after completion construction work wooden scaffolding can be quite easily disassembled by unscrewing the screws and stored away.
All photos from the article
When carrying out various works at height - from laying walls to façade cladding or applying plaster, it is necessary to construct structures that will allow the work to be carried out comfortably and at the same time ensure safety.
Professional builders use metal scaffolding, which is a prefabricated modular systems who may have the most different size, but for private use it is easier to build a structure from boards; this is the option we will consider in the article.
What you need for work
Before you build scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you need to prepare all the required materials and tools:
| Racks | For them, either a board measuring 50x100 mm or a wooden beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm is used, these elements will bear the main load and support the entire structure, so you should use only high-quality lumber without large knots, damage from woodworms and rot, this is very important for ensuring safety |
| Flooring and lintels | For these elements, a board with a thickness of 40-50 mm is used; it is important that the flooring can easily withstand the weight of several people and a small supply of materials (if necessary) |
| Spacers | Elements that impart rigidity and preserve the geometry of the structure being built are made from boards 30-32 mm thick; it is also used to create fences, which are mandatory to ensure a safe working process, because it is never excluded that someone will slip or trip on the scaffolding |
| Fasteners | Either nails or self-tapping screws of large thickness are used to ensure maximum reliability and strength of all connections. Can also be used modern version– mounting angles and plates, with their help the structure can be made even more reliable and durable, and besides, the price of these elements is low |
Important!
Don’t forget about the tool, as you will need to cut wood, hammer in nails or tighten screws, as well as take measurements; the easiest way to do this is to use a tape measure, a square and a construction pencil.
The working process
The instructions on how to make scaffolding with your own hands from boards are quite simple, it is important to follow all the recommendations and requirements, this is where we will begin to consider the issue.
Basic design requirements
There are several generally accepted rules, the observance of which guarantees the reliability of the scaffolding you collect and ensures the highest safety:
- The distance between the posts should not exceed 2-2.5 meters, since with longer spans the wood will not be able to provide adequate rigidity, especially under high loads;
- The width of the decking to ensure comfortable work should be at least 1 meter, but making the structure wider than one and a half meters is also not recommended, since the stability of the system will suffer;
- The maximum safe height of the structure is 6 meters, this is due to the fact that the same amount is maximum length lumber, and building up elements is not recommended.
Stages of work
The whole process consists of several operations that must be performed in a certain sequence:
- First you need to connect the first 4 racks, to do this, first the long side is fastened together, this is done using diagonal struts, the second element is assembled in the same way, after which the end sides are connected using the same spacers, then the resulting structure must be installed and checked for stability, if necessary, reinforcement is made using additional jumpers and perforated corners;
- Next you need to secure the jumpers, their location depends on the level at which the work will be carried out. It is important to calculate everything correctly to ensure the convenience of the process; if two rows of flooring are used, two rows of jumpers are made accordingly; they will also serve as elements providing rigidity; to further strengthen the support, it makes sense to attach them to corners with stiffening ribs;
- The flooring is arranged along fixed lintels, for its construction, only a reliable board without cracks or damage is taken, it is necessary to cut it into pieces of the required length so that unnecessary parts do not stick out at the edges, these elements are best fastened using self-tapping screws, since they cause the wood to crack much less, and fixation is obtained much better;
- Next you need to attach the fencing elements, their location directly depends on the location of the flooring. The general rule is that the elements should not be lower than waist level, sometimes it makes sense to nail two rows of boards for even greater security. Here lumber with a thickness of at least 30 mm is used so that, if necessary, it can withstand a sufficiently large force and not break;
- The next stage is the installation of supporting elements, their number and configuration depend on the characteristics of a particular situation, the height of the scaffolding and the reliability of the soil around the house. Here it is important to learn one simple rule - install as many supports as necessary to ensure the best stability of the system you have built. The elements rest well on the soil, after which they are attached to the support posts;
Advice!
If the structure is wooden, then for additional reliability the system is attached to the walls, this will significantly strengthen the structure, everything is very simple: one end of the block is fixed on the stand, and the other on the wall.
Scaffolding is widely used for carrying out any engineering work at a certain height. Structures are classified not only by the type of material used for installation, but also by the method of fastening the component elements. Very often the need arises when finishing the facades of private houses, when you need to quickly and easily move along the walls.
Use of wood material
It is not difficult to make such a design with your own hands. Most often, stable and durable frame-type scaffolding is installed independently. This installation requires the presence of a strong frame, which is given rigidity by installing diagonals and racks. Scaffolding of this type can be manufactured:
- Made of wood.
- Made of metal.
Wooden scaffolding is easier to install, but to ensure safety precautions, it is recommended to install them yourself only if it is necessary to carry out finishing work on the site. low altitude. For example, when finishing the facade of a house on the first floor level. This is due to the fact that when installing structures of greater height, it is difficult to provide them with the necessary rigidity and stability.
Video review: Scaffolding. Assembly secrets
Scaffolding. Assembly secrets
Metal constructions
Metal scaffolding, the frame of which is made of pipes and profiles, has a number of advantages over wooden ones, namely:
- Higher strength, which guarantees safety during work.
- Good rigidity, which ensures comfort during work.
- Easy to assemble as metal components are secured using simple and reliable fastening methods.
- Durability during storage, which means the possibility of reusable scaffolding.
- Absolute fire safety.
The photo shows the finished section. It is from these elements that the design of frame scaffolding of any size is formed.
Many people are interested in whether they can trust self-assembled scaffolding. After all, working at height is always associated with danger, and, therefore, when using the structure, complete safety must be guaranteed. In this regard, the question of how to make durable scaffolding is quite relevant.
The process of installing frame scaffolding from metal components is not particularly complicated, so all installation operations can be carried out with your own hands if you have basic carpentry and metalworking skills. The main thing is to be extremely careful during installation, and perform all operations efficiently and slowly.
Frame-type scaffolding is primarily used for work on straight facades. They are considered absolutely safe when carrying out work operations at a height of up to 50 m. And this is significantly higher than what wooden structures allow.
A general diagram of the frame type design is presented below:
Installation of metal scaffolding
To build high-quality and reliable design For metal scaffolding you will need the following:
- Profile having a cross section of 30 x 30 mm. for installation of vertical racks.
- Pipes having a diameter of 15 mm. for mounting ties between posts horizontally and diagonally.
- Profile having a cross section of 25 x 25 mm. to form work platform supports and protective fencing.
- Boards about 5 cm thick to form a working platform.
- Bolts with nuts and washers for fastening metal components.
- Self-tapping screws for fixing boards.
Before installing scaffolding of this type, it is necessary to think over the construction plan and location of the sections. Material calculations are carried out according to ready-made drawings, which can be made in any form. But it is very important that they take into account the following: design features for each individual section:
- Height between tiers: 2 m.
- Width between posts: 1 m.
- Length between posts: 3 m.
The number of sections is calculated depending on the length of the wall and the height of the house.
Stages of work
Before installation, it is necessary to thoroughly compact the soil in the area where scaffolding is planned to be erected. It is also advisable to arrange a drainage system to prevent soil erosion in rainy weather.
At the first stage, pipe sections with a diameter of 15 mm are cut. the required length and required quantity according to the drawings.
On both sides, cuts are made at the ends so that they can be flattened. This will allow you to make a high-quality connection with vertical posts for which a metal profile is used.
Next on construction site The location of the vertical posts is marked. First, shoes are installed in these places, and then vertical posts are fixed in them, which are tightened with transverse crossbars and diagonal braces in the places indicated in the drawings.
Fixation is carried out using bolts, nuts and washers, which are pre-installed drilled holes. Diagonal braces are fastened in the same way at the intersection points.
After this, you should proceed to arranging the working area from boards, which are pre-cut to size. To do this, in increments of no more than half a meter, a support profile is mounted on the upper crossbars between the racks. Boards are attached to it using self-tapping screws. To ensure safety, a protective fence is installed around the work site. A ladder for climbing to the upper tier of scaffolding can be purchased, or can be formed using a profile between the side posts of the frame.
Metal scaffolding can consist of several tiers. This design is formed from required quantity separate sections that are welded together. It should be remembered that in this case, to ensure the rigidity of the product, diagonal ties must be mounted in a checkerboard pattern.
IMPORTANT! Self-made scaffolding must be reliable and the structure can support the weight of working people, tools, construction materials, and supplies.
If there is the slightest doubt about the impossibility of providing the necessary strength, preference should be given to purchased professional products.
