There is hardly any need to talk about the need for a cheap type of heating. If it is impossible to heat an apartment with alternative systems, then for premises such as a garage or workshop, this The best decision. Let's talk to you about how a Babington burner is made. The operating principle of the unit is quite simple and involves the use of a cheap type of fuel. This allows you to make the most of the drill.
General information
Babington appeared a very long time ago and it is quite easy to guess who its creator was. Currently, the scope of application of such mini-heating equipment is limited to heating small rooms. The interesting thing is that the burner can be assembled from scrap materials and does not require any investment. In addition, there is no need to organize a chimney, since no smoke is produced during the combustion process. However, it is still necessary to take care of good ventilation in the room. By the way, the patent for the Babington burner was withdrawn relatively recently, so last years drawings of the unit became available to everyone. But before moving on to the assembly process, I would like to understand in detail how the device works. First, a little history.
How did the burner come about?
Back in 1969, inventor Robert Babington was awarded a patent for this burner. True, today its term has long expired. In 1979, Babington proposed a new burner design. It was fundamentally different in that it had a double air spray. This invention was very similar to the Airtonic burner, which was also made using the technology of this inventor. It was used for military purposes. Naturally, the burner was powered by diesel fuel and was irreplaceable. The final version was proposed by John Archibald. Many people call this man the inventor of the Babington burner. But it is impossible to give a definite answer. And it is unlikely that this plays a significant role for us. The most important thing is to be able to create such a unit with your own hands and ensure its efficient operation. Fortunately, doing this is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.
Operating principle of the burner
The waste, in our case this is fuel, flows through a curved tube. As a result, due to the influence of surface tension, a thin film is formed, which is pierced by air from tiny holes, usually no more than 0.010 mm in diameter. As a result, fuel is atomized and enriched with oxygen. For this reason, no additional systems are required to organize the air supply, since the process is completely completed. This design is best suited for working with mining. This is due to the fact that regardless of the quality of the fuel composition and the presence of foreign elements in it, the burner will function. Of course, the heating efficiency in this case will change somewhat. However, the Babington burner must be equipped with a sump with oil, which will be supplied to the working part of the device. Although this is a disadvantage, it cannot be called a significant disadvantage.
Fuel used
We have already figured out a little about how the Babington burner works and what it consists of. Drawings suitable for developing the unit can be found in this article. But it is necessary to understand that, regardless of the design and what materials this heating equipment was made of, it is prohibited to use fuels such as gasoline, methanol and other evaporating types of fuel.
Thanks to efficient atomization, it is rational to use heavy fuels. These include various oils, such as biodiesel, kerosene, diesel, motor oil, etc. In any case, any of these flammable substances will do. As for heat transfer, it depends on the quality of the fuel. Of course, the amount of heat generated can be significantly increased by increasing fuel consumption. To do this, an additional hole of small diameter is drilled. But more on that later.
DIY Babington burner: drawings and something else
As noted above, fuel must flow along a curved surface, which is necessary for efficient combustion. At the same time, many use ordinary ones. First of all, the base is cut off; this can be done using a regular hacksaw. Then solder the copper adapter. Next, a gas source is supplied or Pay a little attention to cleaning the surfaces. They must be well processed and preferably low-fat. Sometimes hollow balls are used instead of a handle. various diameters, made of metal. Large diameter balls are preferable because they provide fast fuel delivery and create a thin film, which is an advantage. In addition, a larger ball has a larger hole. This is important if used oil with a large number of foreign bodies is used. Therefore, if you are faced with a choice between a large and a small ball, then give preference to the first option.
Drilling holes
In order for the air flow to atomize the fuel as efficiently as possible, the hole should be as small in diameter as possible. The priority is 0.010 inches. Although holes up to 0.020 in size are also considered acceptable. To obtain them, special thin drills. If you look at them from the side, they will seem intermittent. In any case, the drilling process should be done slowly and carefully. Compressed air will flow through these holes.
As for spraying using air, this option is more preferable than gas. This is due to the low cost of the resource. If you have to pay for gas, you don’t have to pay for air. In addition, you need very little of it, so you can use ordinary compressors, such as those used on aquariums. In principle, the Babington burner, the drawings of which you can find in this article, is almost ready for use. There are a few small parts left.
Fuel supply and barrel manufacturing
We have already figured out a little about how the Babington burner is made. The product design, despite its simplicity, has several pitfalls. For example, you need to use a suitable pump. The best option in this case is a gear one. It is optimal for working with viscous liquids. But if there is no pump, then you can use a simple scheme for organizing the supply of fuel by gravity. But such a solution only takes place if the amount of oil in the sump, and therefore the pressure, is maintained at a high level.
The trunk used is the usual 6 inches in diameter and 3 feet in length. Just one nozzle is enough. If there is a pipe with thick walls, then it is best to use it, since this option is better suited for the combustion process. Pipes of this type retain heat much longer. At the final station, do not forget to install a depulsator. The Babington burner will operate without flame pulsation.
Conclusion
If you don’t want to engage in design, then you can always buy yourself such a burner. Fortunately, there are a lot of offers, so there shouldn’t be any problems with choosing. As for prices, they depend on the power of the equipment. In addition, such burners are not manufactured by specialized companies, so they can only be purchased from private individuals. For example, an automatic burner with a power regulator from 15 to 30 kW will cost approximately 35-40 thousand rubles. Basically, now we have figured out what a Babington burner is and how it is created. The price, as you can see, depends on the seller. If you have free time and desire, then you can make such simple heating equipment with your own hands.
Used engine oil is an excellent fuel; you just need to create optimal conditions for its combustion.
It burns best in a heated or atomized state, which is implemented in some burners, including homemade ones. A self-made waste oil burner based on the drawings presented in this review will delight you with a powerful flame and a lot of heat.
Let's see how to build such a burner and what to choose for a prototype.
What is a Babington burner?
A homemade oil burner can be used for a variety of purposes, for example, to work with a universal boiler or as part of a simple liquid fuel stove. The main task is to assemble a nozzle that will produce a powerful flame. Here are the requirements:
- Low power consumption;
- Ease of manufacture;
- High efficiency;
- Impeccable operation of the homemade product even on contaminated fuel.
We have already said that in order to effectively burn used oil, you need to heat it or spray it. The easiest way is to heat it up using a heating element until high temperature, but this is fraught with high energy costs. A liquid burner should become a source of cheap heat, but in the case of electric heating (evaporation) this is impossible - tariffs for public utilities in our country are very large.
Since we cannot provide heating of the used oil with its subsequent evaporation, therefore, we need to try to spray it. This is exactly what the Babington burner, which has an extremely simple design, allows you to do. If we take a simplified drawing, we will see that the fuel flows here along a spherical surface in which a thin hole is made - air coming out of the compressor is supplied through it. The air stream, as it were, blows away particles of used oil from the surface of the sphere, resulting in the formation fuel-air mixture.
The above diagram provides, albeit a somewhat simplified, but still quite intelligible explanation of the principle of operation of the burner.
The resulting mixture is ignited, and the burner flame is used for one purpose or another. For example, nothing prevents you from installing the burner in a universal boiler that can work with any type of fuel. It's also possible self-production boilers, there is nothing complicated about it. An interesting fact is that there is virtually no evaporation here - the process takes place at almost a low temperature, due to the pressure of air from a very thin hole.
For more efficient combustion in a liquid fuel burner, a waste oil heating system is used using a low-power heating element. Here approximate diagram for the manufacture of such a burner.
The Babington burner is a fairly simple device, but its manufacture will still require some skills that are unlikely to be obtained anywhere except through experience.
The Babington burner has many advantages. First of all, she doesn't need pre-cleaning waste oil, and there are a lot of impurities in it - it’s not for nothing that it has such a black color. Secondly, it is extremely easy to manufacture. If you love and know how to work with tools, you can easily cope with its assembly and have a simple and effective source of heat at your disposal.
The evaporative burner during exhaust requires another heat source. This leads to the need to use a large amount of electricity or to a more complicated design - you need to somehow heat the fuel so that it begins to break down into flammable fractions. Babington's scheme is much simpler - it is difficult to do without a compressor, but it can do without evaporation. It involves the simplest spraying of fuel, after which it ignites without special labor.
Equipment conversion
Making a waste oil burner from scratch is much easier than doing any modifications that require investment. For example, user reviews indicate that converting a diesel burner for testing costs fantastic amounts. The design turns out to be complex, requiring fuel heating. It’s easier to order a ready-made nozzle from China or buy a product Russian production, or even better, make the burner yourself.
Burner in production blowtorch- also not the best option. Just remember how a blowtorch works. Gasoline is poured into it, which is supplied to the nozzle under air displacement pressure. The nozzle itself is preheated, since the fuel must burn in an evaporated state. Since gasoline is a highly purified fuel, it easily passes through the nozzle without clogging it with impurities.
Using a burner during mining is associated with a constant risk of fire, so having a fire extinguisher in the boiler room is strictly necessary!
In the case of used oil, everything is much more complicated - it contains the smallest particles of metal, gasoline combustion products, gasoline itself, various fractions of decomposed oil and many other contaminants. The nozzle in the blowtorch will become dirty very, very quickly. There are some ways to modernize the injector, but they are not justified. Therefore, next we will look at how to make a Babington burner with your own hands and save yourself from difficulties and high costs.
DIY assembly
A homemade burner for a heating boiler is a great chance to save money in your budget. The costs, compared to store options, will be extremely low. And if you're lucky, you can do it absolutely free. The most expensive part in our scheme is the compressor from the refrigerator, which provides air pressure of up to 2-4 atmospheres. Let's see what materials we need:
- Fuel tank with a built-in heating element - do not be alarmed, the heating element will not work constantly, but only to partially heat the fuel;
- Another tank to collect fuel that did not go to the injector;
- Thin copper tube for air supply (suitable from the same compressor);
- Pipe for draining used oil;
- Oil pump for pumping drained excess into the main fuel tank;
- Two-inch pipe for making a nozzle;
- Tee for a two-inch pipe;
- Material for making a spherical nozzle (you'll have to use your imagination here).
Preparing the injector
First, we need to prepare a spherical nozzle through which the used oil will flow. It is necessary to make a hole in it with a diameter of 0.2-0.3 mm. The larger the hole diameter, the greater the burner power. And here a small difficulty awaits us due to the fact that the air channel must be very smooth - the air must hit forward, into the nozzle tube, and not into its walls. It would be ideal to drill the hole not by hand, but on a machine, using a drill of a suitable diameter.
If you are lucky enough to find a ready-made jet with a suitable diameter, then it will be perfect option– it must be mounted in the center of the hemisphere.
If you don't find a hemisphere, use a rounded piece sheet metal, to which the nozzle is welded from the inside, as shown in the picture.
The result of our work will be the most important part of our waste oil burner - this is the spray nozzle. Heated fuel will flow through it, atomized by the incoming air. From here, the fuel-air mixture will enter the burner pipe, and a flame will rage at the outlet. By installing the burner in a universal boiler, we get an inexpensive heat source.
Assembling the main part of the burner
We continue to make a waste oil burner with our own hands. We have the main part ready, all that remains is to put it in the body. The body will be a tee with a pipe 200-400 mm long screwed to it. We weld or screw the nozzle to the air supply tube, which will go to air compressor. We insert the sprayer inside the tee and secure it with fittings. We make a hole in the tee into which the fuel supply tube is inserted - it should end directly above the nozzle.
The lower part of the tee will act as a discharge tube. Screw in an adapter for a thinner pipe here, connect a pipe to drain excess fuel into the drain tank. We recommend using thin and flexible copper tubes for fuel supply and removal. We have the burner itself ready, all that remains is to deal with its external parts - these are the tanks and the oil pump.
Final stage
Homemade waste oil burners delight consumers with a powerful flame. But in order to provide them uninterrupted operation, it is necessary to carefully consider the design of external components. In our burner, the waste oil flows down a spherical sprayer, but is not completely directed to the nozzle - most of it goes to the drain tank. From here it flows into the main tank, where there is a low-power heating element. If you do not want to transfer fuel manually, use any suitable oil pump.
The pump itself is placed between two tanks - it sucks waste oil from the drain tank and directs it to the main tank. As a result, we get a fuel cycle. Users will only have to periodically add it, since some of it gradually burns out at the outlet of the nozzle.
In order for the assembled unit to last as long as possible, all connections must be lubricated with high-temperature sealant.
As for the heating element, it must be equipped with a thermostat. It is needed for primary fuel preparation. Used oil is quite viscous, and for the injector to work it must be thinner. Therefore it needs to be warmed up. But not to a temperature of +250-300 degrees, as is done in evaporative burners, but only to +70 degrees. In this state, it will be liquid enough to fall off in the form of tiny droplets from the surface of the spherical atomizer.
In total, we have three energy-consuming nodes:
- Air compressor – used to create a fuel-air mixture;
- Heating element - transforms used oil into a more liquid state;
- Oil pump - drives unused waste oil from one tank to another.
We will not be able to make the burner non-volatile, since we cannot get rid of the compressor or heating element.
Starting the system
The crucial moment has arrived - testing a burner operating on waste oil. We fill the system with oil, turn on the heating element and the oil pump, wait until the fuel warms up to desired temperature. After this, turn on the compressor and carefully light the burner - a powerful flame will appear, the intensity of which is regulated by changing the pressure. Now you can connect the burner to the boiler and wait for the heating system to warm up.
You may object - they say, what is the point of this burner if it consumes electricity. We assure you that it is impossible to do without electricity. Even store-bought pressurized liquid burners require connection to an electrical outlet, otherwise it will be extremely difficult to achieve a powerful flame.
Video
The idea of using waste oil as an energy carrier to heat buildings is not new. Due to the large amount of waste at vehicle service stations, especially trucks, a problem arose with its disposal. It is not surprising that various units, both factory-made and home-made, have appeared that make it possible to effectively burn this substance and obtain from it thermal energy. One of such devices is the Babington waste oil burner, which we will consider in this material, and we’ll also tell you how you can do it yourself.
What is a Babington burner?
The design of the burner operating on diesel fuel, was patented by Robert Babington in 1979. However, the patent expired, after which all information about the device and operating principle of the unit became publicly available, as did the drawings of the Babington burner. As a result, many masters were able to repeat this design, only instead of diesel fuel they used used automobile oil, and later other types of liquid oils.
It is not easy to effectively burn old oils, since waste from the same car service is a mixture of oils of various viscosities with a large number of impurities. It also contains gasoline, diesel fuel and even antifreeze in small proportions. All these points are taken into account by the design of factory-made burners; filter elements are built into them.
Another thing is the Babington burner; no filtering is required for its operation, and here’s why. The fuel in it flows down the spherical surface, forming a thin film, and a small hole (0.1-0.3 mm in diameter) is made in the center of this sphere to supply air under pressure. The basic principle of operation of the burner during extraction is that the air escaping from the hole breaks off part of the oil flowing down the surface. The result is a torch of air-fuel mixture capable of ignition.
The amount of dirt in the exhaust only affects the combustion efficiency; the burner operates on exhaust and is not clogged with impurities suspended in it, since there are no narrow passages or holes with small diameters in the fuel path, as in nozzles. There is only one hole here, only air passes through it. Instead of a complex filtration system, the waste oil burner design provides for the supply of fuel to a spherical surface, and its excess that does not enter the torch flows down into the sump.
An indispensable condition for high-quality combustion is preheating of old oils. This is necessary for 2 reasons:
- Increased turnover. Thanks to this, the substance covers the surface of the sphere well and, when air is supplied, is better atomized, forming a stable aerosol plume.
- Reduced flash point. Using heated oil, it is easier to ignite the Babington burner, and during operation it makes maximum use of the fuel energy, releasing more heat.
How this burner functions is clearly shown in the video:
What is the difference between a blowtorch and a Babington burner?
The operation of a supercharged torch is often compared to the combustion of the well-known blowtorch. Indeed, their structure has certain similarities. But the principle of operation is completely different. In a blowtorch, gasoline in a closed container is exposed to excess air pressure created by hand pump. This air does not mix with the fuel, but only pushes it upward, towards the nozzle. Along the way, the gasoline warms up and evaporates in the pipe casing, after which it enters the injector nozzle. Coming out of it, the fuel mixes with air and burns, forming a powerful torch of flame.
Everything happens the other way around in a vertical Babington burner during processing. Air, not fuel, is blown through the nozzle, while the contaminated oil does not evaporate, but is only heated to a certain temperature (no more than 70 ºC). In this case, the liquid does not burn completely; part of it goes into the sump. Due to the fact that it is extremely difficult to evaporate the waste and feed it through the nozzle into the combustion zone, it is not possible to make a burner using the waste from a blowtorch. Just like filling a Babington unit with gasoline, this is not only ineffective, but also downright dangerous.
Advantages and disadvantages
The main advantage due to which the homemade burner at the Babington mine has gained wide popularity is its omnivorous nature, as mentioned above. In fact, you can pour any heated oil of a reasonable degree of contamination onto a spherical surface, and a properly made burner will still operate stably. It is not afraid of gasoline or antifreeze impurities, unless their ratio with oil is one to one, then problems will inevitably arise. And then, this is not at all a reason to get rid of such a mixture, for normal functioning burners using waste oil, it will need to be well diluted with the “correct” oil, and then put into operation.
Another advantage is the simplicity of the design, which is why craftsmen quickly mastered this product. Indeed, making the “heart” of the device from a ball or hemisphere placed in a body is quite simple. It is somewhat more difficult to organize the fuel supply and air injection, and even to configure the entire system so that the DIY Babington burner operates stably and safely. But there is wide scope for the implementation of various technical solutions.
From serious shortcomings There is only one unit that catches your eye. This is the constant presence of dirt in the room where the liquid fuel burner operates. Unfortunately, it is impossible to completely eliminate accidental spills or seepage of contaminated machine oil through leaks, even if all connections are sealed and an automatic Babington burner is installed. To one degree or another, the room will be dirty, you will have to come to terms with it.
Due to its popularity and simplicity, the burner for the waste boiler is made by craftsmen in different variations, but we will undertake to describe the simplest design, which will be available for repetition at home. First you need to select necessary materials, here is a list of them:
- Steel tee with internal threads with a diameter of 50 mm - for the body.
- Squeegee with external thread with a diameter of 50 mm - for the nozzle. Its length is optional, but not less than 100 mm for the nozzle.
- Metal elbow DN10 with external threads - for connecting the fuel line.
- Copper tube DU10 of the required length, but not less than 1 m - to the fuel line.
- A metal ball or hemisphere that fits freely into the tee is for the working part.
- A steel tube of at least DN10 is used to connect the air duct.
To make a burner for testing with your own hands, you need to perform one precise operation - make a hole in the center of the sphere. The hole diameter is from 0.1 to 0.4 mm, ideally 0.25 mm. It can be done in 2 ways: drill with a tool of the appropriate diameter or install a ready-made jet at 0.25 mm.
Important! The hole must be made strictly in the center, and its axis must be parallel to the walls of the housing (tee) in which the sphere will be installed. The deviation is allowed to be minimal, otherwise the torch will hit to the side, which will affect the stable operation and consumption of the burner.
It is not easy to accurately make such a small hole; thin drills easily break. Instructions on how to do this correctly are shown below:
Another way to make a calibrated hole in the spherical part of an autonomous burner is to insert a nozzle of the required diameter there. To do this, a hole is drilled, the diameter of which is slightly less than the outer diameter of the nozzle, and processed with a reamer. The jet is pressed inside and polished, as described in the video:
Note. If you need to make high-power burners, then the diameter of the nozzle can be increased to 0.4-0.5 mm or 2 small holes can be drilled, keeping a distance of at least 7 mm between them.
When this operation is completed, we assemble the burner based on the drawing:
A hole must be made on the side of the nozzle wide enough to ignite the unit. A large fuel heating spiral is not needed, 2-3 turns are enough. The finished product can be mounted on a mounting plate and built into any boiler, including a homemade one. At the end of the work, you need to connect the air and fuel lines, and then organize the supply of oil and air. The simplest way fuel supply - by gravity, for this purpose the container with the waste is suspended from the wall above the burner device and a tube is laid from it.
If you use a pump to pump oil, you can subsequently use control sensors and a control unit, then you will have an automatic burner that will be safer to operate. Detailed instructions for selecting materials and assembling the device are shown in the video:
If everything is done correctly and the diameter of the air hole is 0.25 mm, then the fuel consumption of the burner should not exceed 1 liter per hour. There should be no black soot during combustion; you need to achieve even burning of the torch. The adjustment is carried out by moving the sphere back and forth or changing the air pressure. Any compressor can cope with its injection, even from a refrigerator, since operating pressure never exceeds 4 Bar.
Conclusion
Making a Babington burner with your own hands is good decision for those who have the opportunity to inexpensively purchase old motor oils. With some skills, it is not difficult to integrate the device into a combustion chamber with a water jacket and a chimney, then you will get a homemade supercharged waste oil boiler for heating your home.
Many craftsmen in their practice are faced with the need for new devices, such as a waste oil burner. For owners of auto repair shops and garages, this will replace the furnace for heating the premises, especially if there are decent reserves of used oil and other fuel. Burners, if you understand the principle of their operation, can also be adapted for mixed fuel.
During the cold season, not only residential but also auxiliary premises need heating. Currently, devices based on different types fuel, including waste or used technical oil. On the Russian market you can find devices that process different fuel bases, as well as having a narrow specialization. Based on the type of fuel burned, such devices are:
- gas;
- liquid fuel;
- combined.
The simplest and most economical device for heating a room is considered to be an exhaust burner. According to functionality, burners are divided into 3 subtypes:
- welding;
- lighting;
- heating.
The operating principle of these devices was borrowed from primitive kerosene gas back in the 50s. Quite quickly, the simplest burners became popular, they began to be purchased for heating country houses and garages. In those days, any fuel was inexpensive, but over time, zealous owners, inventors and innovators began to look for a replacement for gasoline, diesel fuel and kerosene. Fuel oil and waste oil were used, which are now used as full-fledged fuel. Today the device is still relevant, and is also in a great way environmental conservation.
Important! In a room where any liquid fuel device will be used, be it a homemade gasoline burner, a working unit, or a DIY diesel fuel burner, there must be a fire extinguisher!
The design of a finished burner operating on waste oil
At the time of buying gas burners and similar equipment, people are often interested in this or that element and its purpose in general design. For example, they want to know where the oil should flow from and where, how it ignites, and so on. When they think about how to make a burner at home, looking for a model for building a homemade analogue, even more questions arise. Most often people are interested in replacing injectors and oil containers with something suitable from available means.
Having at their disposal photos, diagrams and drawings of a waste oil burner, not every master will immediately get down to business. The main reason is the large number of specific details.
Note! It doesn’t matter what the device is made of, the principle of operation of all burners is approximately the same: filtered and heated oil is supplied from the main container and burned in the combustion chamber.
The multicomponent process consists of several stages, and the success of its operation will depend on the quality of the components of the drip burner using waste oil with your own hands:
- extraction and filtration of waste;
- pumping and heating of purified oil;
- combustion process to produce heat.
Filtration as the start of burner operation during production
Enterprises producing ready-made devices, operating on liquid fuel or waste, are equipped with additional options that purify the oil. These are the so-called intake floats, which take the purest portion of the substance from the surface for heating. This principle of waste collection is currently inherent in the vast majority of manufactured products belonging to this category.
Next, through a hose made of material resistant to aggressive environments, used oil is supplied in portions. The tube is usually immersed approximately to the middle of the main container, so the solid suspension remains at the bottom, and a cleaner layer is used for heating and processing. At this stage, it is possible to filter the fuel quite efficiently without additional effort. Dirty impurities, sand and other insoluble components remain at the bottom.
Important! The duration of operation of a do-it-yourself waste oil burner nozzle largely depends on the purity of the fuel. Therefore, it is worth taking care of at least a rough cleaning of the oil fraction supplied to the firebox.
As you know, filters can be single-use or reusable. Sifting of coarse particles can be done through several layers or filter elements, like the ready-made heating pads from Smart Burner. Traditional equipment different products is approximately the same: ready-made devices are rarely produced without a filter or elements replacing it.
A small transfer pump is a standard design part responsible for the uninterrupted flow of oil. If you organize the supply for a stationary unit according to the principle of communicating vessels, then in a homemade burner it can flow to the nozzle by gravity.
Warming up used oil before burning it
An equally important stage in preparing the device for operation is heating the used oil before complete combustion to release heat. When heated, the oil becomes more liquid and plastic, resulting in an optimal consistency that burns well.
A preheating tank or heating coil is needed for any do-it-yourself waste oil burner - the drawings show an intermediate location. Usually this is a separate chamber or capsule of small volume, hidden in the middle of the body. The purpose is to warm up the fuel as efficiently as possible before the combustion process. Finished products most often have a temperature relay that monitors the heating level. As a rule, they operate in an operating range of 0-150 °C.
Attention! Burners adapted for combined suspensions usually have a container for heating. Diesel fuel in homemade diesel burners does not require heating.
Manufacturers decide differently how to organize this stage. The Gnome waste oil burner (and other similar models) has a small electric heating element inside the container, which is responsible for heating the waste oil to the required level. Just as in this case, each manufacturer decides in its own way the issue of oil supply. Often float switches and pumps are responsible for the level of its supply. The system switches off automatically when the preheating tank is full.
Compressed air supply for waste oil recycling
Compressed air is required to prepare the oil mixture for combustion by atomizing it. This transport is directed to the nozzle, which is carried out under pressure. Due to the supply of oxygen through a separate channel, it ensures the combustion process in any device, including a DIY Babington burner using waste oil. Although the device was initially patented as running on diesel fuel, it was also adapted to run on technical oil.
Successful air supply requires a mini-compressor built into ready-made liquid fuel devices. It can be transported in other ways, for example, using the pneumatic principle. With absence compressed air the injector may not work correctly.
Helpful advice! A small pressure gauge helps monitor the operating pressure, thereby maintaining the parameters necessary for full operation of the entire device.
Air flow regulation is provided by a special solenoid valve on the body. Expensive equipment also includes air filters to purify the air. They will be useful in dusty mini-workshops, boiler rooms or other rooms where the air taken for the combustion process has many impurities. To operate a burner nozzle using waste oil yourself, you need an adjustable secondary air supply. The following burner parts are responsible for the synchronous operation of all components:
- nozzle (nozzle);
- fuel compartment;
- heating tank;
- air supply valve;
- oil supply regulator;
- a pressure gauge for checking pressure (there may not be one);
- blower (fan).
In finished devices, ignition is provided by electrodes. Compressed air is supplied through the air channel, from where it enters the nozzle. After heating, the used oil also goes there. If the nozzle is clean, it produces high-quality ignition of the fuel, which implies the appearance of an even, continuous flame.
What is Babington's famous invention?
Every invention has its own author, even if his name is undeservedly forgotten by his descendants. For example, in 1969, British inventor Robert Babington received a patent for a stove running on diesel fuel, which was reminiscent of lighting kerosene gas operating on kerosene vapor. Robert Babington's design was originally designed for kerosene, then it was adapted for diesel fuel. When the number of cars increased disproportionately, the used oil had to be disposed of somehow. Therefore, innovators were looking for devices suitable for these purposes.
First, based on the patented invention of R. Babington, a diesel burner with their own hands, then it was adapted to burn oil and other types of fuel. The testing device appeared much later than the diesel design, but it surpassed its predecessor in popularity and safety.
After some time, a similar device was proposed again, since the first patent had expired, and the liquid fuel stove had not lost its relevance. Similar devices were repeated in different versions, and not only self-taught craftsmen, but also design bureaus of reputable enterprises tried to assemble the Babington burner with their own hands.
Burner by constructive solution It is a simple device, so it can be successfully made at home. It is characterized by fairly high efficiency in terms of obtaining the heat necessary for heating:
- technological installations;
- small workshops;
- workshops;
- garages;
- warehouse and utility rooms.
Helpful advice! You should not adapt a homemade burner with your own hands for heating your home, since burnt oil has a specific smell.
Do-it-yourself burner: operating principle
If you look at photos, pictures and drawings, it becomes obvious that the secondary oil forms a thin film on a curved surface. Through a groove, gas or air is supplied into the container under low pressure. After heating, the oil is atomized by this air flow, ensuring high-quality ignition.
It was this method of ignition that became the basis for inventions that have become widespread in homemade devices and drip burners using waste oil, produced in factories. Used oil is essentially free fuel, a used suspension. Therefore, it is considered more advantageous compared to other heat sources:
- solid fuel and briquettes for homemade;
- gasoline and diesel fuel;
- electricity;
- natural gas;
- kerosene;
- fuel oil.
Helpful advice! Although waste remains the cheapest basis for releasing heat during disposal through combustion, it is still recommended to prepare oil clogged with impurities - to allow the water to settle and filter it from heavy suspended matter.
The first devices using kerosene, diesel fuel and oil smoked heavily and emitted an unpleasant odor. Later they offered a do-it-yourself gasoline burner and devices using other combustible raw materials, but an active search was underway for budget fuel. Oil turned out to be a suitable source of heat, but the soot and smell negated all the benefits. Therefore, all the efforts of the inventors went into eliminating these disadvantages of the burner for waste oil boilers. This should have been facilitated by complete combustion, heating and filtration of contaminated fuel.
Related article:
Operating principle and features. Types of device. How to make it yourself. Manufacturers and popular models.
How to build your own apparatus based on the Babington burner principle: drawings
The principle of operation of a homemade burner, made based on the idea of Robert Babington, is clear from the drawings, where the components of the unit are visible:
- waste oil tank;
- waste tray;
- fuel supply pipe;
- small fuel pump for supplying portions of oil;
- hemisphere for spraying with a small hole;
- heating chamber with heating element (may be missing).
Note! The testing nozzle is not a mandatory element for organizing the smooth combustion process. It can be successfully replaced by a nozzle - a small hole for feeding air jet and fuel. To ensure that it does not become clogged, its serviceability must be monitored.
The used oil evaporates and flows down the hemisphere. These oily vapors mix with air mass, the result is a fuel mixture. The remaining oil that has not had time to be utilized flows into the pan, and from there through the tube back into the fuel tank.
This unit, based on Babington's patent, is designed to burn liquid fuel, quite simple. Therefore, it can be reproduced from scrap parts in a home workshop. Success depends on the exact compliance of the parts with their intended purpose and on the coordinated operation of all components. Therefore, before making a burner with your own hands, you should carefully calculate all the parameters.
Helpful advice! If you take one option as a basis, for example, the Gnome burner, using ready-made drawings and recommendations from craftsmen, it is difficult to make a mistake in the size and functionality of the parts.
Advantages and disadvantages of a do-it-yourself burner
Each technical device has a number of useful qualities and shortcomings. Obviously, this device has more pros than cons. The main advantage is the utilization of waste raw materials for the greatest benefit. Other advantages of oil and liquid fuel recycling equipment:
- burning waste helps preserve the environment;
- ease of operation and high energy efficiency;
- manufacturing of the device is possible under normal household conditions;
- obtaining heat at a minimum cost of raw materials;
- simple design manufacturing scheme, clear drawings;
- a homemade device can be made from available materials;
- use in workshops and enterprises where a lot of processed raw materials accumulate that require disposal;
- the small dimensions of the burner allow it to be moved if necessary;
- waste and the lowest-grade oil go into the furnace;
- device functionality;
- relative fire safety;
- reuse of used oil.
Flaws:
- It is not recommended for use in cottages and residential premises due to burning and odor;
- the need to equip the premises with a fire extinguisher;
- It is imperative to follow all recommendations for the manufacture of the burner;
- the nozzle or nozzle should be checked periodically (if the holes are clogged with solid particles);
- sensitivity of the nozzle or nozzle to contamination;
- additional power supply to the components of the device (pump, compressor).
How to make a burner with your own hands according to diagrams and drawings
The burners, based on the invention of Robert Babington, have undergone repeated refinement and modernization. Hence the discrepancies in different drawings, diagrams and illustrations. The chosen option needs careful study to eliminate design errors.
Helpful advice! You should not make an average version of the burner for recycling waste oil. It is better to use one proven device based on the proposal of an experienced innovator.
Hints and recommendations from other craftsmen may also be useful for making certain elements and units. The proposed explanations, which were taken from one of the specialized forums, concern the following details:
- metal hemisphere (can be made from anything, including a piece of brass door handle or spherical nut);
- a steel threaded tee for connecting two-inch pipes (instead you can take a cross with the same parameters);
- a 10 mm copper tube is suitable for fuel supply;
- for the nozzle you need a metal pipe bend that has external thread(up to 200 mm);
- for air supply, a metal tube with a diameter of 10 mm, connected to the nozzle, is useful;
- It’s better to connect the channels to the body threaded fittings suitable size;
- The main supply of waste will be carried out by a small pump with a simple motor (from a motorcycle or car).
Helpful advice! It is recommended to use a compressor from a refrigerator. A small pressure (2-4 bar) will be enough for the nozzle to work effectively. Ignition is easily ensured by spark plugs from the car, standing at the nozzle.
The nozzle is a small hole, its size regulates the power of the homemade product according to R. Babington’s principle. Sometimes several small holes are made in the hemisphere, since one may become clogged or it will not be enough. There is information that 1 hole measuring 0.25 mm will provide a burner power of 10-15 kW, which depends on the quality of the combusted raw materials.
In a hemisphere with a finished hole, an air supply channel is attached through an inlet through a tee. The tightness is ensured by a threaded plug in which a groove for the tube is drilled. The tee should be soldered to the fitting where the oil supply tube is connected, which requires heating before disposal. To do this, you need to solder a heating element into the tank, preferably with a thermal relay. A tube with several turns will prepare waste oil for feeding into the nozzle.
In order for air to flow in, you additionally need to drill 2 grooves about 8 mm in size in the nozzle. First, a nozzle is attached to the tee, then a copper spiral tube is attached, after which it is attached to the fitting. Some of the oil will drain into the settling tank, which, for safety, is best directed to the side through a tube. Masters who know the secrets of electronics usually provide the device with a controller and a board for organizing ignition.
The burner is a universal design that can be adapted for other types of liquid fuel. Although such devices are on sale today, their high cost encourages home craftsmen to do something similar with their own hands. In terms of efficiency, home appliances for burning waste are not inferior to branded new products designed for heating mini-workshops, greenhouses, and small farms.
Currently, several types of heating are used to organize heating of a private home. various systems. Depending on the availability and accessibility of a particular type of fuel, heat the house in cold period year is possible using electricity, gas and different kinds solid fuel. At the same time, in recent years, used motor oil has become increasingly used as fuel for small boiler houses. One of the ways to use it is to independently manufacture a waste oil burner from scrap materials. How to do this will be discussed later.
Burner structure during development
The general view of the device can be seen in the photo below.
Having studied it, it is not difficult to notice some features of the burner. The body is a used small-volume gas cylinder. Oppositely directed sections of inch thick-walled steel are welded to it in the upper and lower parts. steel pipe. The lower one is used to directly supply an oil-air suspension to the combustion zone, and the upper one plays the role of a burner bell, from which a stream of high-temperature flame bursts out. To create an air flow that forces air into the furnace and contributes to the formation of a torch escaping from the burner outlet, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner of sufficient power is used. Having met appearance unit, let's move on to its manufacture.
To assemble the above-described unit with your own hands, you need to prepare welding machine, used directly for connecting parts, a grinder, which we will use for cutting materials. In addition to the traditional tool, you will need a screw-cutting lathe.
The first component of a burner operating on waste oil is the housing. To make it, prepare a used gas cylinder. To avoid an emergency, make sure that the gas in the container is completely used. After this, remove the filler hole. Using an appropriate oval template, mark the mounting holes for both pipes and drill them along the inside of the circuit using an electric drill with a twist drill secured in the chuck. Carefully cutting the jumpers between the holes with a metal chisel, or sawing with a grinder with a metal disc installed, remove the excess. To give the mounting holes the correct shape, bore them using a round file by hand, or with a cylindrical cutter installed in an electric drill. Remember to cover your eyes with safety glasses when performing machining metal
In the resulting holes, the conformity of the shape of which must be constantly monitored using a template, install and weld pre-cut pipes.
Waste oil supply system to the burner
Please note that in the extreme half of the lower pipe there is a hole with a welded M16 nut. It is necessary for attaching the oil nozzle.
It is convenient to make it on lathe on metal. The basis of the part is a rod with a smooth shank used for attaching the oil supply hose. If a flexible liner is used, it is necessary to make a thread of the appropriate diameter on this part. On most of the rod it is necessary to perform metric thread with an outer diameter of 16 millimeters. An axial hole is made for almost the entire length of the burner nozzle, which meets a three-millimeter transverse one located at the bottom of the part. If you have access to the specified equipment and sufficient skill in metal turning, producing such a part will not be difficult. Otherwise, order it from the nearest metalworking plant or select a similar part yourself.
The principle of operation of the nozzle is based on the flow of viscous waste from a transverse hole and its capture by the air flow. In this case, the oil is broken into minimal droplets, the ignition of which occurs much more easily.
Air flow control system
Another feature of this burner design is the presence of an air flow control system, which subsequently allows you to change the strength of the fire torch. It is based on a steel cup with a semicircular bottom and a hole of sufficient diameter.
This burner part can also be conveniently made on a lathe. At the same time, to obtain the correct hemispherical shape of the bottom, special cutters and highly qualified turners will be needed. If you are not confident in your abilities, seek professional help or find ready block to regulate air flow, for example from a car carburetor.
Direct air control is carried out by a round curtain, secured to the L-shaped axis with an M4 screw.
To ensure reliable connection of the hose outlet and operation of the air valve, an adapter with a longitudinal slot is used.
Access to the chamber for igniting waste oil during burner startup is provided by a weighted lid installed on welded hinges on the neck of the gas cylinder.
When using a lighter option, the device may spontaneously open during operation.
With a correctly assembled design, the operation of the burner should be accompanied by the exit of an even violet torch from the working part, which occurs when the air-oil mixture burns in the housing.
To provide fire safety When working with this burner design during testing, it is better to additionally protect the attachment point of the nozzle and the oil supply flexible wire with a steel screen, which prevents the ignition of the oil in the event of a leak.
In addition to the device option we considered, it is quite possible to independently manufacture other oil burners. Some use preheating of waste oil to improve combustion. One way to do this is to install an oil cylinder directly on the outlet pipe.
In this particular example, unlike the one described above, the air is pumped using an electric fan.
Well, now start and warm up the burner:
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