Make a cage for keeping rabbits. Step-by-step instructions for making rabbit cages with your own hands. Family block

The most widespread in household plots is double designs of the Research Institute of Fur Farming and Rabbit Breeding named after. V. A. Afanasyeva.

Such designed to support two full-aged rabbits or two groups of young animals. The length of the cage is 220-240 cm, depth - 65 cm, height of the front wall - 50-60 cm, back - 35 cm.

Double cage for adult rabbits with a nesting compartment (dimensions in cm.)

The roof is pitched with a backward slope and a canopy protruding forward by 20 cm and on the sides by 10 cm.

In a double room On the side walls there are two nesting compartments with a solid floor, and in the middle part there are two aft compartments with a slatted or mesh floor. The length of the nesting compartment along the facade is 40 cm, and the length of the aft compartment is 65 cm.

Aft compartments in separated by mangers made of two frames covered with coarse mesh. The nesting and feeding compartments are connected by means of a hole measuring 20x17 cm. Removable feeders, drinking bowls, as well as two mesh (feeding compartments) and two solid plank doors are hung on the front side.

In the cold season, mesh doors are covered with mats, blankets and other insulating materials.

And amateur rabbit breeder A. A. Zhashkov in these cases closes the metal mesh of the doors with a glazed frame; it is hung on two nails bent in the shape of a hook. In calm, clear weather the frames are raised, and in stormy weather they are lowered. When using glazed frames, rabbits do not feel a lack of light in any weather, and the length of daylight hours for them is not artificially reduced.

They are installed on legs at a height of 70-80 cm from the surface of the ground in two, less often - in three tiers. In this case, moisture-proof layers or trays are installed between the cells of adjacent tiers.

In these rabbit cages You can keep not only full-aged rabbits, but also young animals. The length of the cage with the enclosure is 2 m, the width of the cage is 0.65 m, and the width of the enclosure is 0.60 m. The enclosure is connected to the cage by a manhole, which, if necessary, is covered with a partition.

Double cage for keeping rabbits of the Klenovo-Chagadayevo state farm system (dimensions in cm)

The floor in this rabbit cage– mesh; when it gets colder, the mesh is covered with a solid particle board. Nurseries, drinking bowls and feeders are often reinforced on the front wall, and sometimes inside the cage.

Amateur rabbit breeder E. M. Slesarev successfully uses mobile cages with mesh enclosures in the summer. When keeping rabbits in these cages There is no need to prepare green fodder, prepare it for feeding and distribution, as well as clean the paddocks.

The principle of using mobile cages for rabbits- sequential movement of them along personal plot for the purpose of clearing vegetation.

Combined cage with walking for keeping rabbits

Rabbit cages with enclosures mounted in blocks of three types: for four adult females, for two breeding males and for six litters of young animals aged from 3 to 5 months. Mobile units are mounted on small wheels.

For combined keeping, rabbit breeders use both portable rabbit cages. The cage should be light, the roof should be waterproof, pitched, with a slight slope. The first quality is necessary to facilitate the movement of portable cages indoors for the cold season and their installation in two or three tiers

Portable rabbit cage

Since ancient times, rabbit breeders on homestead farms have used a cage-cage with a triangular configuration to keep adult rabbits and young animals on the grass after transplanting; its length, width and height are 2 m each.

Cage frame- made of wooden blocks. About a third of the cage is lined with boards on all sides, which reliably shelters the animals from rain and heat. A door is installed on one side of the shelter, and the rest of the cage is surrounded with a metal mesh.

Cage - cage

The cage-cage is periodically, after the rabbits have completely eaten pasture (grass), moved to a new place.

Convenient, very practical rabbit cage developed by amateur rabbit breeders I. A. Komov and S. F. Kuzmin. It was exhibited at the Exhibition of Economic Achievements of the USSR and is now referred to as the Komov-Kuzmin cell. Its dimensions are 110x80x50 cm.

Usually these cages are for rabbits with intervals between them of 15 cm, they are placed in two tiers. The roof of the lower tier cage is covered with linoleum, in the middle of which a gutter is made with a slope. Peat chips are usually poured onto linoleum, which weakens the pungent odor of excrement and absorbs moisture.

The cages are equipped with original folding feeders with a wire canopy over them. When the rabbit lowers its head into the feeder, the visor rests on it, preventing the animal from scooping out the food with its front paws.

Beginning rabbit breeders, in the absence of the necessary building material, often make rabbit cages from planks of various boxes, sometimes the boxes themselves, as well as old barrels, are adapted for keeping rabbits.

Using container boxes for keeping rabbits

The latter are placed under a light canopy or simply under open air in the “sideways” position. The barrels are laid in a row on beams raised to a height of 70-80 cm from the surface of the ground.

Sometimes they are placed in two tiers, placing one upper barrel in the “depression” between the two lower ones. It is enough to install a mesh door with a latch in the front wall of the barrel - and the rabbit cage is ready.

Using barrels to keep rabbits

2. Cages for breeding young animals:

As already noted, baby rabbits can be kept in cages for full-aged rabbits.

On small farms, young animals of 3-4 heads are kept in cages for adult livestock, or 10-15 rabbits are kept in cages for group cages for rabbits with walks. The walk consists of a wooden or metal frame, surrounded by galvanized metal mesh.

The floor is mesh with a cell measuring 16x16 mm. The frame has a length of 200, a width of 100, and a height of 60 cm. The paddock is in contact with the shelter, which has 2-4 manholes. The shelter floor is removable; if necessary, it can be replaced with wooden boards or on the grid.

The wooden roof is hinged. Group cage for rabbits installed on beams at a height of 70-80 cm from the soil level.

Group cage for keeping young rabbits (projection)

Feeling good baby rabbits in a group cage consisting of a wooden frame. The roof, as well as the back and side walls of the cage are made of wood material, and the floor and front wall are made of galvanized metal mesh.

Drinkers, feeders, mangers are attached to the front wall, and two doors are hung. The roof of the cage is single-pitched, wooden, with a canopy 30 cm wide.

Group cage for keeping young rabbits (general view)

When keeping cages outside, especially year-round, some difficulties arise. In winter, individual parts of the cells have to be covered with plastic film, roofing felt or linoleum.

IN summer period installed in the shaded part of the site or create artificial shadow over batteries of cells. The accumulation of blocks of cells, multi-tiered cells worsen the aesthetic appearance of the site, which causes certain criticism from others.

In this regard, the experience of amateur rabbit breeder A. A. Shirikalov, who keeps rabbits outdoors in cages all year round, is instructive.

Cell batteries made of metal mesh are raised to a height of 0.5 m from the ground surface. The rabbit breeder covers three sides and the roof of the cages with linoleum waste.

In summer, to reduce adverse effects high temperature(rabbits refuse food, their growth slows down, and their live weight decreases), a “protective tent” is erected over two batteries of cages.

To do this, install poles along the batteries at a distance of 2 m from each other, 1.5 and 2 m high. The poles at the top are connected by poles that form a frame above the batteries of cells. On poles and roof poles, aluminum wire is stretched on both sides at intervals of 20 cm.

In the spring, legenaria seedlings are planted on both sides of the battery next to each pole. The plant, having rapid growth, forms a green tent over the rabbitry, creating the necessary coolness. White inflorescences of lagenaria appear in June.

In addition, the plant produces juicy fruits weighing up to 5 kg, which are used in feed mash. From one lagenaria bush in favorable years you can get up to 60-80 kg of fruit.

Some rabbit breeders use vegetable peas, climbing beans, and perennials to create a “green tent” or “green wall.” flowering plants: climbing roses, clematis, etc.

In the southern treeless zones of the country for building cages for rabbits They use ordinary brick, clay wattle, and adobe brick. Rabbit cages These materials are used to build like wooden ones, except that their lower part, 10-15 cm wide, is lined with mesh or carving on the inside.

To build a roof, first a flooring is made of poles, then a sheathing, usually made of thin brushwood, is placed on them. The top of the lathing is covered with a 25 cm layer of reeds or straw, which are secured with straps. After this, the roof is filled with liquid clay, and then coated with greasy clay. Adobe cages with a clay-straw or reed roof provide good protection for rabbits. southern zones from overheating.

IN last years for individual household plots, the industry began to produce mesh cages for rabbits, which can be purchased through the retail chain. These cages are used under a light canopy in the summer, and in insulated rabbit sheds in the winter.

The Zvenigorod production association manufactured the KSK-1 cage, intended for keeping rabbits in rabbitries. It consists of two paddocks separated by nurseries.

The doors are located at the top. The floor is made of mesh with 16x48 mm cells, and all other parts of the cage are made of 24x48 mm cells. On the front wall, a collector pipe is secured with special clamps, which is connected to the automatic drinkers through a fitting using rubber hoses.

Mesh cages for rabbits

(a – with two paddocks, b – for young animals, c – three-tier cage)

(1 - nursery, 2 - door, 3 - collector pipe, 4 - hopper feeder, 5 - hose, 6 - stand, 7 - drinking bowl, 8 - tray, 9 - paddocks, 10 - feeder for mixers, 11 - feeder for grain and granules)

When installing cages in one row, the collector pipe can be connected by a coupling to the same tube of the next cage. The cage itself is secured with clamps to 4 metal posts.

Under the rabbit cage At a distance of 13 cm from the floor there is a solid metal tray intended for collecting rabbit excrement.

The KSK-1 cage can be installed in 2 and 3 tiers. For this purpose, its lower part is equipped with special sockets. Depending on the complete set, the cage was supplied in 4 versions: KSK-1-1 (with drinkers, feeders, collector and tray); KSK-1-2 (without drinkers and collector); KSK-1-3 (without drinkers, collector and feeders); KSK-1-4 (without pallet).

The main disadvantage of such cages for rabbits- the upper location of the door, which makes it difficult to service animals, especially with multi-tiered placement of cages.

3. Transport cages for rabbits

When purchasing breeding rabbits, selling them from breeding farms, sending them to procurement points and meat processing plants, they use special transport cages for rabbits dimensions 160x48x35 cm.

Transport cage for rabbits

The length of the cage is divided into equal sections by light partitions. Their front wall also serves as a door.

In the back of a car transport cages for rabbits usually placed in 4-5 tiers with the doors facing outwards. For stability, they are fastened with ropes and, if necessary, covered with tarpaulin. Sometimes rabbit breeders have to (for mating, exchange of producers, delivery to shows, exhibitions, etc.) use individual portable cage for rabbits.

Transport box for rabbits

The cage as a whole is light, with a dense, moisture-proof bottom, above which a grate is placed at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from it, which serves as the floor of the cage.

Even in our global and technocratic society, where everything can be purchased in a store, natural economy does not lose its relevance to this day. The most profitable and low-cost method of domestic animal husbandry is rabbit breeding. But, like any living creature, a rabbit must have its own comfortable place to live. These animals are kept in special cages located in the barn. Every novice rabbit breeder should know how to make a rabbit cage.

Such a process will not seem laborious if all the conditions for rabbit breeding premises are met. One of the main requirements is compliance with the scale of such buildings. Therefore, you first need to determine the size of the cages for rabbits. Even with a small number of animals, one cage for all will not be enough. You need to plan at least three pieces. First you need to prepare drawings of cages for rabbits.

Required space for 1 head

Detailed drawing indicating even the smallest details designs will provide you with reliable construction.

There are many known design methods for how to build a rabbitry. Some provide comfort to animals, others are convenient for the owner due to financial costs. Each rabbit breeder chooses himself best option, based on your capabilities. But, nevertheless, more often they make cages for rabbits with their own hands. According to reviews, simple rabbit mesh cages are popular. Such material can be found in any construction supermarket, or you can rummage through your old supplies. Let's look at the process of creating a cage for rabbits from a mesh with your own hands.

Mesh rabbitry

There are many varieties of such cages; the following structures have proven themselves best:

a cage without a supporting structure with supporting supports;
frame cells.

Homemade galvanized checkered weaving with strong wire will serve for the production of such structures. For the tops and side sections of the cells, a mesh with links of 25x50 mm will be sufficient. The lower part involves the use of small cells to prevent the paws of furry animals from slipping. Once you have determined the dimensions, construction can begin.

In our case, the cage will be an externally mesh structure surrounded by a base with legs.

Step-by-step production

The construction of such a structure consists of several stages. Before you make a rabbit cage with your own hands, you need to cut out certain parts of the sides based on the size.

A template made in advance will help create the front and back parts of the same size, which are carefully cut out from the mesh roll fabric. Then the side parts are cut, completely matching their perimeter.

The constructed rectangle is covered with a roof, and a fine-mesh mesh will serve as the base of the floor.
Initially, fastening elements form the walls.
Next, the base of the cage is installed. At the same time, the mesh weaves of the front part of the very first cell are removed. A tray for animal waste will be located here.
Having outlined the doorway, we form a slot. There may be several of them.
The doors are also made using mesh and secured with fasteners.
A mesh ceiling is laid on top of the resulting box.
The frame is made separately using wooden blocks. If the drawings with dimensions are drawn out accurately and exceed the cage itself, our structure will easily fit into its supporting base.

Step-by-step photo instructions

The main work is done, now you need to attach the finished structures to the wall metal parts and install limiters to prevent the cage from swaying when the animals move. The sides and back are covered with plywood sheets, which are cut relative to the dimensions of the frame, and not the size of the mesh formations. Now all that remains is to fill the holding area with the accessories necessary for the life of rabbits: feeders, drinking bowls, a tray, and you can populate the rabbitry with animals. This is the most common way to build a rabbit cage using the mesh method.

Mikhailova's rabbitry

The production of cages for rabbits must be thoughtful and serve as a guarantee that the animals will actively develop and gain weight. A popular scheme for such development belongs to I. N. Mikhailov, a famous rabbit breeder. Mikhailov's rabbit cages have accessible and understandable instructions for the stages of construction yourself at home.

Mikhailov's cage is manufactured according to already developed drawing projects.

The essence of his technique is to divide the cell into three parts: top, bottom and support section, each of which has its own functional affiliation. So, the upper part has one or two tiers, the lower base contains a tray for collecting feces, as well as a compartment where they are stored and stored until removal. The stand frame also serves as a fixing base. And the compartments of the Mikhailov cage for rabbits, intended for drinking and feeding, move out slightly.

Thanks to this layout of housing, Mikhailov’s rabbitry requires minimal care - about an hour a week, and the animals are kept outside all year round.

The housings are mainly made of metal, and wood is used for insulation. There are simplified versions of similar premises for rabbits, differing in appearance, therefore, let us highlight the main features of the cell size ratio according to the Mikhailovsky method:

the total area of one section accommodating a pair of animals ranges from 1.4 square meters. m.;
the height of the cage is 2.1 m, width 2.4 m;
each section of the cage is constructed with a width of 0.6 m and a height of 0.7 m;
The queen cells are 0.4 m long and 0.35 m wide; the cone for collecting waste products can have any size.

The base in the form of legs on a frame stand reaches a height of 1.4 m. It is necessary to secure the supporting structure with fixing elements. This ensures the necessary stability of even the most simplified design.

Rabbit farm Zolotukhina

One of the most popular cages today are cages for rabbits by N.I. Zolotukhin, a man who put forward a number of necessary transformations that bring the conditions for keeping animals at home closer to the natural features of their life. This is how Zolotukhin’s cell, economical and quite simple to create, appeared.

This design saves space and does not require daily cleaning, making it easier for rabbit breeders to maintain.

Let us highlight the main features of N. Zolotukhin’s design option:

By using flat slate or a sheet of plywood is used to make the floor. The mesh is attached only to the floor of the rear covering. There is no tray provided at all. The developer states that rabbits almost always urinate from the back of the cage. This is where most of the feces are collected. The rest of the feces are scattered by the rabbits on the floor.
The building has a complex structure, including six compartments located on floors. Each higher floor is shifted relative to the floor next to it, equal to the width of the grid in the floor. And the front side, connecting the floors, represents a kind of slope.
The queen cell is completely absent. In cold weather, there is additionally a special shelter for the mother rabbit and baby rabbits.

Cleaning is carried out using a goose fan as a sweeping device.

Cage for rabbits in 2 tiers

The use of multi-storey structures for rabbits at home to this day is the most compact and convenient option rabbit breeding. There is nothing easier than building rabbit cages with your own hands in 2 tiers.

Assembly diagram

Experienced owners have developed special instructions, the manual of which contains the following provisions:

wooden blocks are connected to form four rectangular bases;
using a mesh with small cells, they make the floor, then install the side walls;
since the first floor contains trays for feces, the floor is made pitched for ease of removal;
Trays for domestic rabbits are prepared using timber. The second floor under its base must have a solid plywood sheet to prevent contamination from entering the first floor;
the ceiling is made at the last moment using waterproof materials.

To support two floors, a reliable frame is designed. To correctly carry out such a cage design for rabbits, the drawings must always be kept at hand. Two-tier cages for rabbits have a structure layout in the shape of the letter “U”, represented by standard blocks attached to each other with self-tapping screws.

With these simple techniques you can make cages for rabbits with your own hands, which in terms of reliability and comfort will not be inferior to factory designs.

Depending on the age and size of the pet, the cage parameters may vary. For example, for rabbits of the "" breed, special cages will be required. Certain breeds will also need their own special cages.

The length of the cage for females with hatching should be 175-185cm, width – 1m, height – 60-70cm. During the hatching period, it is important that the female feels comfortable. Rabbits are incredibly afraid of dampness and drafts. Place the cages so that they are not constantly exposed to the sun. The façade of the cage should be placed to the east or west. Dig the pillar into the ground (to a depth of 0.6-0.8m), place stationary cells. Portable cages can be placed on stands or wooden trestles. Single-tier cages can be installed at a level of 70-80cm from the ground. In order for rabbits to move easily in cages, the structures must be free. For rabbits weighing over five kilograms, cages with a length of 130-150 cm, a depth of 70 cm, and a height of back wall– 40-45cm, front wall height – 55-60cm.

Group cages are used for transplanted young animals. In such cages you can simultaneously keep from eight to twenty rabbits.

From three to five animals under three months of age or two to three rabbits over 3 months of age are kept in individual cages.

For one rabbit, the cage area should be at least 0.5 square meters. m, at least 35cm – wall height.

When making group cages, take into account the number of individuals, because each animal will need at least 0.15-0.20 square meters. m.

External cages for keeping rabbits can be one-, two-, or three-tiered. There should be 35 cm from the surface of the ground to the cells of the lower tier.

In winter, when you need to care for suckling rabbits, you should cover the floor in the nesting compartment with straw. The layer of straw is up to twenty centimeters.

Choose non-artificial materials for making the cage. Synthetic materials have a bad effect on the development of rabbits - this rule is important for all breeds of rabbits.

Cage for adult rabbits

Since large cages are needed for a female with a hatch, a cage with the following parameters will be sufficient for an ordinary rabbit: width 60-70cm, height - 60cm, length -100cm. These are the minimum cage sizes for one adult.

The rabbits are growing, and they will need larger cages. For adult rabbits, cages with the following parameters are suitable: width – 60-80cm, height – 50cm, length – 120-150cm. Farmers say that in such a cage an adult will feel free and have personal space. Experts agreed that the floor of the cage should be made of mesh or slats. In appearance, the cage should resemble a block consisting of two cells, each of which can contain an adult.

You can fence off the feeding and nesting compartments of the cage with a wall, although the pet will not get lost and will find food.

When choosing cells, you need to take into account gender. A cage for a female rabbit will not suit a rabbit, although they will be of the same type. Consider the cage size and external conditions when creating the cage.

A two-tier shed is a row of cages placed in one or several tiers. Details about. A two-tier shed would be a suitable choice - it reduces the working area and does not complicate the control and care of pets. This design is used in the southern regions or on the street. But such an enclosure can be organized in a barn or for the use of summer keeping rabbits. The shad should not stand on the ground. It is preferable to place it at a height of 50-60cm. Considering the size of the pet, the width of the shad should be up to 2m, depth – up to 1m. You can also make a two-tier shed yourself. You will need boards, slate and a durable steel mesh. The shed is built on a one-sided principle. A concrete foundation will increase the stability of the structure. Improved design includes manure channel and drip trays. Sheds – The best way for keeping rabbits. Arranging a shed allows you to keep several pets and makes caring for rabbits easier.

It is important to make a drawing of the cage and in the future add additional houses or even rows of houses for new pets. In the sheds, all the cells are the same in size, the houses are covered with a canopy, placed close to adjacent structures and placed one above the other. The convenience of this design is that the rabbits will spend spring and summer outside.

In winter, rabbits in sheds are given specially heated water. Typically, a nursery for grass or hay is set up between two houses. The cages have waste-free bin feeders - they need to be loaded for 3 - 8 days. A bunker feeder can be made from steel sheets. In spring and summer, shads use automatic water supply for rabbits to drink. The passage in the shed is located at a slight slope from the center to the exit. The rear walls of the cage form the walls of the shad. The sheds have small windows with bars. In winter, the windows with bars are closed with folding doors. The doors are made from the inside of the cells. Be sure to hang drinking bowls and feeders. An overhead road for trolleys (for transporting feed) is equipped along the middle passage.

You will need a double cage with a queen cell. The queen cell is a removable compartment where babies up to a month old will be kept. It is also called the aft compartment. The largest part of such a cell is called the feed cell. There should be a hole between the cells, measuring 17x20cm. A similar design is suitable for a male and a female, two rabbits with babies. Solid wooden partition or mesh will separate the compartments. It is best to make the floor from wooden slats (1.5 cm increments), then the manure will fall into the lower pan.

Rabbits do not live long and should be comfortable in the house. You should not save too much on materials, because healthy pets will fully pay for the costs. A double cage with a queen cell includes a nursery, a door to the nesting compartment, a mesh door, a folding drinker and feeder, a stand post, and a feeder axis.

The designs should be such that there is no need to constantly open the doors to fill them. Sawdust or small shavings are not suitable for bedding - the dust from them will cause the rabbit to sneeze.

Double cages with mesh aviary

To build a double, single-tier cage with a mesh enclosure, you will need 0.6 sq. m mesh (cells 35x35mm); lumber - 0.2 cubic meters. m, 1.3 sq. m metal mesh(cells 18x18mm) - if this is not available, then an all-welded mesh (cells 16x48mm) will do. Similar designs are needed for non-pregnant rabbits of reproductive age. They can also house adult rabbits and young animals separated from their queens.

Cages for rabbits with devices for storing food for 1-2 weeks

These are advanced cages, they are made from various building materials. Features: in the center there are structures for breeding stock, and along the walls there are enclosures for young individuals. The structures can be two- or three-tiered. But make it so that feces and urine do not fall from the upper cells.

For the uterine compartment: 40x70x60cm, for the light compartment: 60x70x60cm. Auto-drinkers, feeders, nurseries for grass and hay are located in a bright compartment. Install a mesh or slatted grille at a height of 5-10cm in the uterine compartment and at a height of 10-15cm from the floor in the light compartment. In summer you need to clean the cages more often because worms form in the manure.

Cage sizes for Zolotukhin rabbits

Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin, a famous rabbit breeder, developed his own concept for keeping rabbits.

In such cages there are no pallets, the floor is made of boards or slate, the rear walls are mounted at an angle, there are no special queen cells, grain feeders are fixed to the doors, only there is a narrow strip of mesh floor along the rear walls of the structure. Cell dimensions: 70x100cm, cells are placed one above the other in several tiers, queen cells are also placed. To prevent baby rabbits from falling out open door– place a board in front of the queen cell. Queen cells are placed one above the other. A separate opaque door, common to all structures, is installed. The queen cell is located in the cage itself, only part of the removable board is fenced off.

Dimensions of cages for giant rabbits

The breed of large meat-and-skin rabbits is called the “gray giant.” Required dimensions of the structure: width 35cm, length – 60cm, height – 40cm. You can make a more spacious cage: height – 61cm, length – 96cm, width – 68cm. The “gray giant” rabbit lives in areas with different climatic conditions.

Dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits

The following design is suitable: width 50cm, length 70cm, height 30cm. To make a rabbitry, you will need a soldered mesh, the cells must be square. You will need rolled wire, diameter 6mm. Thinner wire should be wrapped around the joints on the structure. In such designs, water is supplied through nipple drinkers, and there are also small feeders with a supply of food. The animals are fed for about a week. During this period they should be carefully looked after.

Cage sizes for California rabbits

California rabbits are easy to care for. This is a hybrid of Russian ermine, Soviet chinchilla and New Zealand breed. The dimensions of the structure can be 1.5 times smaller than for “gray giant” rabbits. These rabbits can tolerate the cold well even without bedding. For a cell with a queen cell, 0.4 square meters will be enough. m, for one individual – 0.3 sq. m. They are easy to maintain. California rabbits have coarse fur on their feet. When placing individuals in mesh blocks, place pets of the same age - this will make it easier to care for, feed, and conduct veterinary examinations.

To raise California rabbits solely for meat, keep them in a pit. Setting up a pit is very easy, and the living conditions of these rabbits in the pit will be as close as possible to natural conditions their habitat.

To set up a rabbit pit, you need to dig a hole with approximate dimensions of 2x2x1 m, strengthen the walls with slate or concrete, lay a mesh or plank floor, enclose the hole with a fence, and make a roof. California rabbits will burrow, mate, breed, and raise young.

To avoid degeneration of rabbits, do not allow inbreeding. The rabbit breeder is obliged to supply water, feed, and periodically carry out selective selection. To avoid inbreeding, the first generation to reach sexual maturity, obtained from a particular male, must be captured and replaced with other rabbits.

California rabbits eat dairy products, fish or meat meal, various protein supplements. In winter, pets should have warm liquid to drink. Constant access to water is required for rabbits.

In recent years, it has become very popular among farmers to breed California rabbits. This breed is easy to breed on specialized farms. European rabbits are the ancestors of this individual. Initially, breeders set themselves the task of developing a meat breed of rabbits with good skins. This breed is one of the most famous meat rabbit breeds. 7-8 rabbits is the average fertility of rabbits. When breeding, female rabbits can produce 11-12 rabbits. Rabbits are white (grayish) at birth, and by 3.5-4 months of age they become similar in color to adult rabbits. In two months, newborn rabbits gain two kilograms of weight. Adult female rabbits weigh 4.7-5.2 kg, rabbits - 4.5-5 kg. If you cross New Zealand white rabbits with California rabbits, you can achieve excellent results breeding. Rabbits of this breed have drooping legs. California rabbits have been successfully bred on slatted floors. The tail of Californian rabbits lies close to the body, the chin is symmetrical, the head is set on a short neck, a wide back and shoulders, and a cylindrical body of medium length.

This breed may also be called the “California White Rabbit” because it is pure white. However, the tips of the ears, tail and paws may be brown or black. Usually such a rabbit weighs no more than 5 kg. If you weigh more, you are obese. The rabbit's legs are thick and short, its eyes are pink, its skeleton is strong and light. The length of the ears does not exceed 10cm. Experienced breeders advise novice rabbit breeders to pay attention to breeding California rabbits, because they are easy to keep.

The length of the fur is approximately 3cm, the length of the body is 50cm. The head is round, medium-sized. The rabbit's fur is shiny and thick. California rabbits can also be bought for entertainment, because they have a peaceful disposition and cheerful character. With proper care, California rabbits can live up to ten years. However, due to their large size, such individuals will be difficult to keep as ornamentals. Rooms with moderate, constant air temperature and lighting are suitable for their maintenance. You can feed them hay, grass, cereals, flour, vegetables, and cereals.

Optimal cage sizes for rabbits

Suitable cages will have the following dimensions: length - 120-150cm, width - 60-80cm, front wall height - 45-50cm, the door should be mesh, dimensions 65x70x50cm, slatted or mesh floor.

Dimensions of industrial cages for rabbits

Constructions industrial cells are modular, which, taking into account the stages of the process cycle, allows you to add new designs to existing ones. Dimensions: 2x2x1x7m, there are ten uterine compartments, measuring 40x92cm. To facilitate access to the boxes, there are spring-loaded lids. The operator, using the lifting covers of the partitions, can clean the rabbit uterus sections without any obstacles, perform weaning, individual therapy, palpation, and insemination. To remove litter, all cages have removable corner panels.

Today, rabbits are bred in almost every corner of the world. If you also decide to get into this profitable business, then we recommend starting with organizing optimal conditions keeping animals, namely from rabbit cages.

A rabbitry and all the equipment necessary for it (feeders and drinkers) can be purchased or built independently. In this article we will talk about what kind of housing these animals should have, and what materials will be needed to make cages for rabbits with your own hands.

Necessary materials

First of all, you should decide on the size of future cells. The most common option is a double design, which has two separate sections.

There are other types of housing:

single-section;
group (for young animals);
with three sections;
with mother liquor.

Creating any structure for keeping rabbits involves step by step production frame, floor, walls, ceiling and door with subsequent assembly. In most cases, wood and metal mesh are used in construction. Therefore, for work you will need the following tools and materials:

The wood should first be sanded and thoroughly sanded, and the ends of the mesh should be securely fastened. All sharp edges must be removed, otherwise the animal may be injured. It makes sense to cover wooden surfaces inside the home with tin to make the enclosure more durable, since rabbits love to gnaw on everything that catches their eye. Thick wooden beams are usually used for the main frame, and the walls and ceiling are made of plywood sheets and mesh. Note that if the rabbits’ home is located outdoors, then the length of the legs of the frame should not be less than 80 cm. For cages placed indoors, 30-centimeter legs will be enough.

If the enclosure will be located in the open air, then it is important to pay special attention to the construction of the roof of the home. Direct Sun rays, precipitation and drafts negatively affect the well-being and health of animals. It is not recommended to make a roof out of metal - it gets very hot in the sun, which can lead to heatstroke in a rabbit. It is better to cover the top of the structure with slate.

Types of cells and their sizes

On a farm to maintain a population of rabbits, various cages are required, intended for certain categories of animals:

adults;
young animals;
representatives of giant breeds;
females with offspring.

When planning the construction of a home for animals, as well as their resettlement, we start from the following figures: 0.7 m 2 of space is usually allocated for an adult rabbit, and 0.25 m 2 for young animals per individual.

For adults

Optimal cages for medium-sized rabbits should have a depth of 55-75 cm, a height of 45-60 cm and a length of at least 100 cm. Dimensions standard version: 120×75×45 cm (DHA). When keeping adult animals, it is advisable to use block structures divided into two compartments using a mesh. If mating is necessary, the partition is removed, combining the sections together.

In order to save space, cells are often arranged in blocks of 2-3 tiers.

Each room should have a designated area for sleeping, eating and walking. A small place for rest is required: approximately 30x60x50 cm. To zone the space, plywood partitions with holes located at a height of about 15 cm from the floor are usually used.

For young animals

Rabbits are separated from their mother at the age of 6-7 weeks and kept together in groups of 10-20 animals. When designing a home, the following dimensions are adhered to: 300 × 100 × 50 cm. The floor can be made either solid, mesh or slatted. The first option is safer from the point of view of the health of rabbits, because some individuals are susceptible to the development of pododermatitis, and the coating of slats or mesh contributes to the occurrence of the disease. However, houses with such a bottom are easier to keep clean, as they become dirty more slowly.

In winter, the floor is insulated with a bedding of straw and hay.

In some farms, special cages for young animals are not provided, and cubs weaned from their mother are immediately placed in housing for adult animals. With this option, it is necessary to calculate how many heads can be placed in one room to make the animals comfortable.

For giant rabbits

The giants' owners will need significantly more building materials, after all adults can reach 70 cm in length and weigh more than 10 kg. The optimal cage dimensions for rabbits of giant varieties are: height of at least 65 cm, length - 150 cm, depth - 75 cm. If possible, it is better to increase the above parameters.

Young animals can be kept in group cages with an area of at least 1.2 m2. When constructing the structure, you should take into account the considerable weight of the giants and pay special attention to strengthening the floor, for example, making it from thicker galvanized mesh. To prevent sagging, a sheathing is made of bars under the floor, which are placed at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Experienced rabbit breeders recommend keeping giants in dwellings with a solid floor. However, cleaning in such rooms will have to be done much more often.

For a female with cubs

Some farmers believe that a special queen cell for a female with offspring is necessary exclusively in the cold season, while in the summer a regular cage is sufficient. However, this opinion is wrong. In an open room, partitioned only with a mesh, the female rabbit feels unprotected, which can negatively affect the feeding process and the health of her offspring. Therefore, it is imperative to equip your home with a closed, insulated place for the nest, and also leave enough space for walking.

The frame is made of strong beams, the back and side walls are made of plywood. The space is immediately divided into two parts - a large one intended for walking and a small one for a nest. Each of them is closed with a separate door: mesh (large compartment) or solid wood (nesting part). All walls, floors and ceilings must be double, with a layer of foam or straw for additional heat and sound insulation. The roof is made of slate.

You can learn more about the design and construction of a queen cell from the article on our website.

The most common design options

There are many various options, from which each farmer chooses the most suitable one depending on available resources, free space and other parameters. The following designs are very popular among breeders:

solid wire;
Mikhailova;
Zolotukhina;
Tsvetkova.

Solid wire

This is the most budget-friendly housing option that can be placed in any convenient location. Such cages are lightweight and durable, they take up little space and are easy to care for on a daily basis.

For production you need two types of galvanized mesh with cells different sizes. The coarse mesh (2.5-5x5 cm) is attached to the walls and ceiling, and the fine mesh (1.5-2.5 cm) is attached to the floor. The frame is made of durable timber, with legs 50-70 cm high. In the warm season, the structure is installed outside (under a canopy); in cold weather, it is brought into an insulated shed.

You can see step-by-step instructions on how to quickly make a simple all-wire dwelling for rabbits in the following story:

Mikhailova

A distinctive feature of the design, made according to Mikhailov’s drawings, is the heating of the queen cell and drinkers, and the presence of a container for collecting waste. Cells of this type can be one- or two-level. House dimensions: width 240 cm, height 70 or 210 cm (depending on number of floors). The distance from the ground to the structure is 140 cm - this space is necessary to place a special inclined chute and waste collector.

An additional queen cell (size 35×40 cm) is sometimes attached to the back wall, and feeders (30×15 cm) are attached to the side walls.

The floor is made of slats, which are laid at small intervals. This allows waste to flow down the gutters into a special container. The walls are made of wood, the doors are made of mesh. For better air flow, the home is equipped with a ventilation pipe covered with a canopy.

Thanks to the waste collection system, Mikhailov’s design ensures constant cleanliness in the cages, which greatly facilitates the work of farmers.

Automatic heating technologies are most often used when breeding ornamental breeds, since the cost of such equipment for the house and its maintenance is too high.

Zolotukhina

N.I. Zolotukhin is known in rabbit breeding circles as the creator of a simple and inexpensive design for placing eared ears. The original layout of the home allows for less frequent cleaning, and the animals feel more comfortable.

Such houses are multi-storey buildings with an inclined plywood ceiling. The floor is made of mesh, which is laid in a thin strip against the back wall. The second tier is shifted relative to the lower one by the width of the mesh strip. The third floor is located similarly. The front wall, common to all three tiers, is attached at an angle.

In the process of creating such a home, you need to follow step-by-step instructions. First of all, you should purchase wooden beams and boards, slate sheets, metal mesh, polycarbonate and metal sheets. The frame, partitions and doors of the queen cell are constructed from wood. The mesh is used for doors and the back of the floor. The rest of the bottom is made of slate. The back wall is made of polycarbonate. The wooden surfaces inside are sheathed with tin.

Standard dimensions of a cage for rabbits according to Zolotukhin’s drawings:

You can learn about the advantages of a home of this design from the following video:

Tsvetkova

Experienced rabbit breeder A. A. Tsvetkov proposed a new original idea cells, the main valuable features of which are:

gravity feeders;
mounted queen cells;
forced ventilation;
feces removal system.

The frame is constructed from coniferous timber, which is usually painted with white paint. The sennik is made of moisture-resistant plywood, at least 8 mm thick, and the inside is lined with metal mesh. All wooden parts are sheathed with sheet metal, the cone-shaped compartment for drainage and waste collection is covered with slate mastic. The roof is covered with slate or roofing felt.

To heat water in the cold season, the house is equipped with a special boiler.

General manufacturing rules

When creating a rabbit cage with your own hands, you must follow the following rules:

the frame is made of wooden beams with a thickness of at least 5x5 cm, the walls and partitions are made of durable sheet plywood;
All wooden surfaces those inside should be covered with tin;
It is best to use slate to cover the roof;
when processing parts, do not use antiseptics, varnishes and impregnations with a strong odor;
To construct a floor with a mesh covering, use a mesh with cells measuring no more than 2.5x2.5 cm.

Experienced rabbit breeders often cover part of the mesh floor with a sheet of plywood, which helps the animals avoid pododermatitis.

Depending on the individual needs of the animals, the design of the building may vary. For example, a female with offspring needs a queen cell and a nesting compartment, and when keeping young animals in groups, one cannot do without insulated nesting rooms and covered spacious enclosures for walking.

After graduation construction work Each dwelling must be equipped properly: install a feeder and drinker, prepare a hay barn and a bunker to provide the animals with the most favorable conditions.

Oklahoma farmer Carl Burns developed an unusual variety of multi-colored corn called Rainbow Corn. The grains on each cob are of different colors and shades: brown, pink, purple, blue, green, etc. This result was achieved through many years of selecting the most colored ordinary varieties and crossing them.

In Australia, scientists have begun experiments in cloning several varieties of grapes grown in cold regions. Climate warming, which is predicted for the next 50 years, will lead to their disappearance. Australian varieties have excellent characteristics for winemaking and are not susceptible to diseases common in Europe and America.

“Frost-resistant” varieties of garden strawberries (more often simply “strawberries”) need shelter just as much as ordinary varieties (especially in those regions where there are snowless winters or frosts alternating with thaws). All strawberries have superficial roots. This means that without shelter they freeze to death. Sellers’ assurances that strawberries are “frost-resistant,” “winter-hardy,” “tolerates frosts down to −35 ℃,” etc. are deception. Gardeners should remember that root system No one has ever managed to change the strawberries.

It is believed that some vegetables and fruits (cucumbers, stem celery, all varieties of cabbage, peppers, apples) have “negative calorie content,” that is, more calories are consumed during digestion than they contain. In fact, only 10-20% of the calories received from food are consumed in the digestive process.

Humus is rotted manure or bird droppings. It is prepared like this: the manure is piled up in a heap or pile, layered with sawdust, peat and garden soil. The pile is covered with film to stabilize temperature and humidity (this is necessary to increase the activity of microorganisms). The fertilizer “ripens” within 2-5 years, depending on external conditions and the composition of the feedstock. The output is a loose, homogeneous mass with a pleasant smell of fresh earth.

A new product from American developers is the Tertill robot, which weeds weeds in the garden. The device was invented under the leadership of John Downes (creator of the robot vacuum cleaner) and works in any weather conditions autonomously, moving around uneven surface on wheels. At the same time, it cuts off all plants below 3 cm with the built-in trimmer.

You need to collect medicinal flowers and inflorescences at the very beginning of the flowering period, when the content of nutrients in them is highest. Flowers are supposed to be picked by hand, tearing off the rough stalks. Dry the collected flowers and herbs, scattering thin layer, in a cool room at natural temperature without access to direct sunlight.

No natural protection Tomatoes do not suffer from late blight. If late blight attacks, any tomatoes (and potatoes too) die, no matter what is said in the description of the varieties (“variety resistant to late blight” is just a marketing ploy).

Building cages for rabbits with your own hands is a feasible task for any rabbit breeder. It can be easily solved if you have step-by-step instructions detailing all the stages, including choosing a design, drawing up a drawing, preparing materials, installing and landscaping the houses.

Beginning rabbit breeders need to know that pets can be kept in two ways: indoors and outdoors. Not only the structure of the rabbits, but also the rules for caring for them depend on the chosen farming method.

There is no consensus among rabbit breeders about what conditions are most favorable for animals. In your choice, you can focus on the point of view of Professor V.N. Mikhailova. He was a strong proponent of keeping rabbits outdoors.

This method has many advantages:

No dampness.
Sufficient amount of sunlight.
Lack of hydrogen sulfide and ammonia vapors.

The listed problems can also be solved with internal maintenance: install lamps and a powerful hood. But this will entail an increase in costs and, as a result, a decrease in business profitability.

Design Features

Simple cages are boxes, one side of which is lined with metal mesh. It’s not difficult to make such houses, but the animals will be uncomfortable in them. The owner can expect difficulties in caring for their pets.

The basis of the cage is a frame, which can be made of wooden blocks or metal rods ( optimal choice- reinforcement with a cross-section of 6-8 mm). The next problem that needs to be solved is what the frame will be made of. This is an important choice on which the durability of the structure and the ease of its maintenance depend.

Criteria for selecting material for cell construction:

Double cages with mesh aviary

You can make a double cage for rabbits from a mesh with your own hands from available materials:

metal mesh;
reinforcement bars;
sheets of plywood;
planed or unplaned boards;
slate.

The floor of this structure should be mesh, which will prevent it from rotting. Both adults and young animals can be placed in such cages. The double design consists of two parts:

cages (length 200 cm, width 65 cm, height 75 cm);
enclosure (length 200 cm, width 100 cm, height 60 cm).

When maintained outdoors, the structure should be raised above the ground level by 70 cm. This is the most comfortable height for pet care. A hole must be made from the cage into the enclosure through which the animals will go out for a walk. It is recommended to make drinking bowls and feeders from galvanized steel. Cages with enclosures cannot be placed on top of each other.

To build one structure of the specified dimensions, the following amount of materials will be required:

reinforcement with a cross section of 8 mm - 22 kg;
metal mesh for an enclosure with a mesh size of 25x25 mm or 16x48 mm (all walls, floor, ceiling) - 9.5 m2;
lumber for the cage - 0.25 m3.

Two-tier shed

A two-tier shed is a structure of two cages installed above each other at a distance of 50-60 cm, the lower of which is raised above the floor level by 70-80 cm. Shed maintenance is beneficial in terms of saving space and servicing pets. Industrial-type two-tier cages for rabbits have the following dimensions:

width - 200 cm;
depth - 100 cm;
height - 60 cm.

Based on the given parameters, it is easy to make a drawing and calculate the required amount of materials for constructing a two-tier cage. Will be required wooden blocks, slate sheets, metal mesh, plywood or OSB. Important characteristics of the shad:

all cells in it are the same size;
the upper one has a roof made of slate or other material suitable for this purpose.

It is necessary to consider in detail how to make cells.

Three-tier cage in a minimal area

Shed in 3 tiers - optimal solution for a minimum area. These designs eliminate several problems at once:

competently organize the farm, minimizing the time for its maintenance;
provide pets with comfortable conditions;
use space efficiently.
When designing a multi-tier structure, you need to take into account the dimensions of the area recommended by experts for keeping one rabbit:
for non-tribal - 0.17-0.23 m3;
for breeding - 0.1 m3.

All cages must be equipped with retractable trays, preferably a manure channel. Between the houses of the same tier, a manger is installed, in which grass or hay is placed. Feeders are hopper type, made of galvanized steel sheets. The sheds must contain devices for lighting and heating: lamps and air heaters.

Winter cages

The design of outdoor cages for winter maintenance should provide for the possibility of insulation. Mesh windows must be closed with folding caps. The house in the cage should have a hole not with a folding door, but with a door that fits into the grooves. This will prevent animals from running out into the enclosure without permission. If all insulation elements are removable, the constructed structure is called all-season.

Rabbits tolerate frosts well down to -45 degrees. The most important thing when keeping outdoors in winter is to reliably protect animal houses from drafts and lay a thick layer of hay on the floor.

Materials and tools

Making a cage for rabbits with your own hands involves right choice materials. First of all, you need to decide what the floor will be made of. Exactly this important place in the rabbitry, because it contains the animal and its waste products. Experts consider 2 flooring options to be the best:
from wooden slats with a cross section of 25x30 mm, laid at a distance of 15-20 mm from each other;
made of galvanized metal mesh with a mesh size of 18x18 mm.

Cleaning a metal floor is much easier. It is not subject to rotting, does not absorb animal urine and, unlike wood, does not emit an unpleasant odor.

You can build a house for pets from scrap materials. Ready-made products are suitable for this purpose: mezzanines, wide and deep drawers from chests of drawers and sofas. In order to build a cage, you will need tools for working with wood and metal:

screwdriver or drill;
wood hacksaw;
metal scissors or a grinder with a metal disc;
screwdrivers;
pliers;
roulette;
construction bubble level;
hammer.

Materials you will need:

OSB sheets with a thickness of 6 mm;
metal mesh (for the floor - with a mesh of 18x18 mm, for walls and enclosure - 25x25 mm);
flat slate for roofing;
galvanized steel for the installation of feeders and drinkers;
wooden blocks with a cross section of 30x30 mm for mounting the frame.

Cell sizes

When planning your farm, it is important to make drawings of each structure. These diagrams and calculations will be required if there is a need to increase the number of shad and add cages to them. When performing calculations, take into account the recommended space for a rabbit (indicated above). The size of the cages should be such as to avoid crowding of animals and provide them with free access to feeders and drinkers.

Rabbit sheds, regardless of their location (indoors or outdoors), must have a manure channel that can be easily washed with water pressure from a hose. With proper management, it is necessary to provide a container for Wastewater or their discharge into an autonomous sewage system.

For young animals

For young animals, single or double cages with enclosures are most convenient. If it is not possible to allocate a place for walking, the pets will not move much. Such conditions are optimal for fattening rabbits. For young animals, houses are often made from plywood boxes with the following dimensions:

length - 60 cm;
width - 50 cm;
height - 35-40 cm.

The nest is made plug-in. A folding door is installed in one wall, consisting of wooden frame, upholstered with metal mesh. The manger is also made from mesh, but with a wider mesh: 35x35 mm. The house is installed at a height of 70 cm from the floor on legs or trestles.

Cage for adult rabbits

Optimal sizes:

length - 240 cm;
width - 65 cm;
rear wall height - 45-50 cm;
the height of the front wall is 60-65 cm.

Paul has slight slope in the direction from the back to the front wall of the house.

Nest for a female rabbit with offspring

A cage for breeding rabbits consists of two parts - a queen cell and a feeding compartment - connected by a manhole. The nest for small rabbits is located in the queen cell. This is also a place for a rabbit. Dimensions of the queen cell:

depth - 65 cm;
length (facade) - 40 cm;
height - 40-50 cm.

Dimensions of the hole: width 17 cm, height 17-22 cm. This hole should be raised above the floor level of the queen cell by 10-15 cm. Young rabbits will not be able to climb over a partition of such a height and will always be within the nest.

For large rabbits

Giant rabbits require larger cages and enclosures. Optimal sizes:

length - 90-95 cm;
width - 60-65 cm;
height - 60-65 cm.

How to make a rabbit cage with your own hands

Do-it-yourself rabbit cage, step-by-step construction instructions take into account all the important points, intended for outdoor keeping of non-breeding adult animals. There is no aviary. Drinkers and feeders are not built-in, but are installed directly into the interior of the animal house.

The instructions tell you how to properly make a cage measuring 240x65x60 cm. It provides the following:

Step 1. Making the legs. Since the cage will be raised 70 cm above ground level, 2 bars with a cross-section of 30x30 mm and a length of 130 cm and 2 bars with a cross-section of 30x30 mm and a length of 120 mm are prepared. The difference in length is due to the difference in the height of the front (50 cm) and rear (60 cm) walls of the house.

Step 2. Making the upper and lower trim. Prepare 4 bars 240 cm long and 4 bars 65 cm long.

Step 3. Assembling the frame. The bars are connected to each other using nails, screws, and metal corners.

Step 4. Making the walls. From OSB or moisture-resistant plywood, 2 sheets for the side walls are cut out, 65 cm wide, the height of one side is 60 cm, the second is 50 cm. The sheet for the back wall is prepared 240 cm long and 60 cm wide.

Step 5. Cover the frame on three sides with OSB sheets.

Step 6. Make a floor from metal mesh. The length of the canvas is 240 cm, width is 65 cm.

Step 7. Install the slate roof. It must be removable.

Step 8. Sheathe the front wall with a metal mesh.

The feeder and drinker are installed in the cage, removing the roof. In a similar way, the bedding is replaced and the house is cleaned. If you follow the suggested instructions, you can quickly make high-quality cages for your pets.