Choosing a roof covering for a bathhouse is both a simple and complex question. Even the large number of roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone without exception; each bathhouse owner tries to find his own solution. And our goal is not to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their own opinion - no perfect roof, like no and very bad, each has strong and weak sides, very large fluctuations in price and installation complexity.
Piece roofing tiles are considered the most prestigious and complex; they can be natural ceramic, concrete, with additives of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although among these types of coverings the price difference by brand may vary factor of. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Options for covering with metal and flexible tiles are found most often in bathhouse coverings, and we will focus on them for now.
To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little brief characteristics coverings.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tiles
Advantages
Low cost, quick installation, wide choose colors and geometric shapes. Durability can also be mentioned, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are manufactured with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6–7 years the coating will have to be repaired or replaced. Conscientious licensed manufacturers provide a guarantee of 25 years or more for elite brands of products.
Flaws
It makes noise during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical; no one is going to sleep lightly in a bathhouse. And if there is an attic on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - metal tiles are an excellent roofing covering for baths.
Metal tiles must be transported only in a horizontal position; the length of the body must be greater than the length of the material. Unload the roofing carefully, carry the sheets only in a vertical position, do not allow sharp bends.
We will describe the most complex method of installing metal tiles - with warm roof. Depending on specific use attic spaces you can simplify the installation process and skip some operations.
Step-by-step installation instructions
Step 1. Check the correct construction and dimensions of the rafter system. Most baths have the simplest gable roof types; checking their dimensions does not take much time.
How to do it? First you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system; the difference in values should not exceed two centimeters; such a spread can be easily hidden by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the outer rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted; corrections of deflections are done while nailing the sheathing.
Step 2. If possible, treat all wooden elements of the rafter system with complex antiseptic agents. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase fire safety indicators. For a bathhouse this is an important factor.
Step 3. Laying waterproofing.
It will protect the insulating layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles; droplets of water can fall on mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-protective properties. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures may cause their premature deterioration. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected by a vapor barrier layer.
Waterproofing is sold in rolls; during installation you need to follow the markings; there are lines on the front surface. Simple bathhouse roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Start doing waterproofing right around the chimneys, stretch the material along the entire perimeter and secure with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of condensate drainage; it is advisable to glue the membrane joints with special tape or ordinary tape.
The chimney has been processed - proceed to waterproofing the slopes. Place the rolls from bottom to top and secure them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow the material to sag significantly; under no circumstances should it touch the mineral wool. The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50x50 mm counter-lattice slats.
This device increases the efficiency of natural ventilation between the roofing and the sheathing. Some builders skip this operation; they believe that the gaps between the sheathing and the covering sheets are sufficient for ventilation. Both methods have a right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing coverings.
Step 4.
Nail wind boards along the eaves, and wrap the waterproofing over the boards.
For lathing, you can use boards 30 mm thick and 100 mm wide or slats 30x50 mm. The first board or batten from the eaves should be a centimeter thicker than the others to increase the strength of fixation of the sheets and prevent them from being undermined by strong gusts of wind. The pitch of the sheathing should be equal to the pitch of the wave of metal tiles.
Lathing for metal tiles - photo
Nail the first batten at the eaves and check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a defect. In order to speed up the process of nailing the sheathing, you need to cut several slats along the length of the wave pitch; they will be used as a template. There is a second method to speed up the work - use a rope with blue to beat off parallel lines along the counter-lattice at the required distance. When nailing the slats, be guided by these lines. The skate must have slats; the distance of the slats from the skate cannot exceed ten centimeters. The slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element of the roofing.
The wavelength of metal tiles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet; select tiles taking into account the individual characteristics of the roof. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing the optimal performance of the roof and climate zone. Along the perimeter of the chimney you need to make a continuous sheathing approximately 20÷25 centimeters wide.
Step 5. Installation of a chimney apron.
All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing, and their list also includes metal flashings for chimneys. They look like flat plates; you need to cut the technological bends yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.
Measure the width of the bottom of the chimney, mark this value on the bar symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line about 10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, and bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The entire part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the exit angle of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake; when fixing the element, the angle will be adjusted to the existing dimensions.
Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney
Start installing the apron from the bottom wall brick pipe. A flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanges on the sides should be placed under the lower element of the apron; water will flow along it into the catch basins. Finished in the same way side walls pipes, the top part is sealed last.
In order to prevent water from getting through the chimney stacks under the roofing, it is recommended to recess the side strips into the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact with the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. Bulgarian with diamond blade a line (groove) is cut along the marked location. The cut needs to be cleaned of dust and washed. The curved edge of the strip is inserted into the groove and sealed along the entire length with silicone. This should be done around the entire perimeter of the brick chimney. The planks are screwed with countersunk screws to the roof sheathing. The junction points are the most dangerous in terms of leaks; be very careful when performing all operations to seal them.
The external chimney sealing apron is installed after laying the metal tiles. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron; we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. In terms of time, the complete installation of one apron will not take more than two to three hours; this is not the time, by saving which one can expose the entire roof of the bathhouse to additional risk.
Step 5. Installation of hooks for the drainage system.
The hooks should be fixed before installing the metal tile drip, this is very important. Immediately after the hooks, you can install cornice strips.
Important. The bottom of the eaves strip should fall slightly into the gutter. Otherwise, during strong gusts of wind, rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be installed after installing the metal tiles.
The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The overall slope of the gutter should be at least three millimeters per meter of length; mark a line on each holder for bending in the desired location.
Let's look at how to do this with an example. Let’s say the length of the bathhouse roof slope is 6 meters, the slope between the outer holders should be approximately 6×3 = 18 millimeters. Place all the hooks in a row and align their ends. On the first, mark the bend point, and on the last, mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the dots with a line; each hook will have a mark for its bend. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during fastening they do not change places. Don’t be upset if you fail to maintain millimeter precision during bending; the gutter itself will fall into place over time.
Step 6. A hole for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter; the width of the hole depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a hacksaw for metal. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters; the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Secure the gutter with metal tabs to the holders. To improve the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is installed under the hole and fixed by bending the metal tongue.
Step 7 On top of the installed cornice strip, you need to bring out the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it with double-sided tape. In this position, condensation will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.
Step 8 Sheets of metal tiles are lifted onto the roof one at a time; you can use wooden logs installed from the ground with emphasis on the beginning of the slope.
If the bathhouse is two-story, then you should use canvas straps to lift it.
The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the eaves and the end of the roof.
If rafter system was done according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, place the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1÷2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end additional element will cover the unevenness of the sheets.
Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.
Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, how many are needed for 1 sq. m.
Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the sheathing by at least two centimeters.
At the bottom of the sheet, fastenings are made in each deflection of a wave; subsequently, the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it overlaps the first. This should be kept in mind and do not tighten the screws on the outer waves of the metal tiles before laying two sheets.
You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, your feet should be placed only in places where the waves bend.
Self-tapping screws must be tightened without under-tightening or over-tightening. The rubber washer should be pressed tightly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.
Step 9 Installation of ridge strips.
They can be flat or semicircular, and are equipped with end caps of the appropriate profile. Place the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters and secure them to the metal tiles with ridge screws.
Step 10 Installation of end strips.
Align the ends, all the sheathing slats should be on the same line. The planks are fixed to the wind boards on one side, and to the roofing on the other.
If the bathhouse uses a metal sandwich pipe for the chimney, then in order to reach the roof, you need to install a special additional device for engineering equipment - a rubber outlet. The diameter of its outlet changes due to cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.
How to seal the outlet of a metal pipe
| Step, No. | Description | illustration |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1 | Mark the location of the chimney outlet on the roof and cut a hole with metal scissors |
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| Step 2 | Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant to the waterproofing seal, glue it and secure it to the slats or sheathing boards with metal strips |
|
| Step 3 | Place the base of the exit to the metal tile profile and bend it to size |
|
| Step 4 | Apply a layer of sealant on the bottom side of the outlet, install the outlet in place and secure it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the device should be approximately 20% less than the diameter of the chimney pipe |
|
If you wish, you can install ventilation holes on the roof. The technology is no different from that described above, only the appearance and engineering design of the ventilation cap differs.
The final touch is the snow guards. It is recommended to install them in areas with heavy snow cover; they protect drainage systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave just above the sheathing. Mark the locations and thin drill drill holes in the tiles and battens. They are needed for bolts and screws of increased strength; snow retainers must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to fasten the brackets on rubber pads; the snow retention tubes are inserted into the holes of the brackets.
Prices for snow guards
snow guards
Video - Installation of metal tiles
Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing flexible tiles
Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles occupy a worthy place; they are a coating of universal use; they can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloping roofs.
In terms of price value, the material belongs to the average category. Of course, the price range among different brands and manufacturers of flexible tiles can be significant, but based on the average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All manufacturers' advertising brochures attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only a variety of colors, but also the shape of the “petals” of the tiles.
But none of the manufacturers provide photographs of roofs with soft tiles after 5–6 years of operation. Do you know why? But because during this time enough dust accumulates between the crumb particles for the growth of mosses and lichens.
We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating; some people may like it - a real “retro roof”. Let them like it, but mosses and lichens “don’t like” the roof itself, root system plants at an accelerated pace destroys the base of soft tiles. No “modified” bitumens and nonwovens cannot withstand the effects of living nature. This means it's time to save money for a complete replacement of the roofing material. Moreover, do not put off work; in a few years the plywood will begin to deteriorate, top veneer will peel off. You will also have to replace expensive plywood. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the sheathing, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are options for removing moss, but they simultaneously “clean” the surface of crumbs and part of the bitumen.
The base for the tiles is solid; most often, sheets of plywood or OSB are used; sometimes there is a more expensive option made from thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.
| Material thickness, mm | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Distance between sheathing rafters, mm | OSB | Sheet plywood | Natural edged board |
| 300 | 9 | 9 | - |
| 600 | 12 | 12 | 20 |
| 900 | 18 | 18 | 23 |
| 1200 | 21 | 21 | 30 |
| 1500 | 27 | 27 | 37 |
The table shows the approximate parameters of the sheathing materials depending on the distances between the rafter legs. The most profitable is the use of thinner slabs laid on a step lathing made of unedged boards. So, the strength can be adjusted independently, and the cost of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will focus on this option.
Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its components. Flexible roofing structures are much heavier than metal ones; the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, which means additional loads. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters using a stretched rope. If there are any deflections, make marks in these places and remove them while laying the step sheathing. The distance between the sheathing boards is 20÷30 centimeters.
Step 2. Start nailing the OSB boards.
The base for flexible tiles is a continuous sheathing
Baths, as a rule, have small sizes and simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of times you cut material, which reduces time and quality. You can fasten the slabs with ordinary nails 40÷50 mm long; if you want to suffer and pay extra money for this pain, fix the slabs with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy surrounding the need to leave a gap between the plates, which supposedly will compensate for thermal expansion.
You shouldn't believe this. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the slab if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is, firstly. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter by which the slab can actually expand are easily crushed at the edges. Try to ensure that the slabs lie as evenly as possible in one plane. But a difference of a few millimeters should not upset you; flexible tiles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.
Step 3. Secure the drainage system hooks.
How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph No. 5 of the “Rules and step-by-step instruction installation of metal tiles." And the general algorithm for installing a drainage system, including snow retainers, is no different.
Step 4. Install metal droppers on the eaves overhang, secure them in increments of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to hammer nails into metal with a special hammer; it has a sharp tooth, which is used to first punch holes in the sheet and only after that the nail is driven in. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.
Step 5. Installation of flexible tiles must begin with the chimney; lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is supplied as a kit. We strongly recommend placing the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the eaves overhangs. It's inexpensive, but will bring a lot of benefits. Width approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and glue it carefully, do not allow bending, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm; if the barrier does not adhere well, use special liquid bitumen mastic.
Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cut line, cut it, remove the board and glue a piece prepared to size. You can additionally fix the underlay carpet with nails with wide heads, the length of the nails is within 20 mm, pitch 25÷30 cm.
Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15°, then it is better to lay the lining carpet along all slopes. The material is laid from bottom to top, overlapping areas are sealed with bitumen mastic. On a skate, a barrier must be installed in all cases.
One more thing. If the profile of the flexible tiles has deep cuts, for example, jazz, tail, trio varieties, then the underlay should be applied over the entire roof.
Step 6. To protect the ends from wind loads, pediment strips are nailed to the gable board.
Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the nails is approximately twenty centimeters; do not forget to overlap the planks. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, place the nails in a checkerboard pattern.
Step 7 Marking the roof slope. Along the underlay carpet, you need to beat off parallel horizontal lines with a rope with blue, the distance between them is equal to approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. This mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing flexible tiles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of distortions in the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to hold the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to maintain it in difficult areas of the roof and correct incorrect dimensions of the slope.
Step 8 Place a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney; be sure to coat the joints with bitumen mastic.
Step 9 Setting up the starting line.
This is a very important step, so pay the utmost attention to its implementation. Carry out the work from the center of the cornice, trimming off the excess along the edges. This method will make the entire roof symmetrical, and this is very important for the appearance of the bathhouse. The starting strip has its own profile and increased thickness of the adhesive layer. Remove the protective film from the back, carefully lay the material and secure it in a checkerboard pattern with wide-headed nails. You should retreat 1.5 cm from the drip edge.
Step 10. Before you begin laying the shingles, you need to mix them in random order; do not take them in a row from one pile.
The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades will form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. The protective film on the back side of each shingle is removed, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally secured with nails.
Important. When driving nails into the lower part of the tiles, you should pay attention to ensure that their heads are covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.
There are varieties of tiles that do not have the protection of an adhesive layer; they are a little easier to work with. Drive nails only at right angles; the heads should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; the head should be located at least two centimeters away from the visible part of the shingle. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.
Step 11 Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, the tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints must be additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to cut through the groove, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The junction areas are carefully coated with mastic.
Pass-through element - fixation
Step 12 Decoration of pediments. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. Excess parts are cut off along a straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.
Step 13 The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then covered with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bitumen mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is covered with soft tiles. It can be cut out from an ordinary one or torn along the perforation lines of a cornice. Secure the tile sheets with four nails, two on each side. Lay the ridge towards the prevailing wind direction.
If the ridge has an acute angle or the work on laying tiles is carried out in the cold season, then before bending ridge tiles the line should be warmed up construction hairdryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be laid at temperatures of -5°C. Do not believe or experiment; work should be performed only in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top and a little wider at the bottom. The wide, smooth part of the factory cutting will hide all the handmade irregularities.
At this point the roofing work is completed, you can begin to insulate the roof.
Prices for flexible tiles
flexible tiles
Video - Installation of flexible tiles
The question of how to properly lay metal tiles is asked by most developers who decide to choose this practical, modern and durable material when building a house. This article will tell you how to install metal tiles - the instructions will tell you about all the subtleties and nuances of performing this work.
The article also talks about the device roofing pie materials, tools and much more necessary for roof construction.
The “metal tile – installation – instructions” diagram used in the article can be useful both for developers and for the builders themselves, both when building a house and when performing work such as erecting a canopy from metal tiles.
Installation technology
Before you begin installing metal tiles, you can watch or download a video on the Internet about installing metal tiles, but first of all, let’s look at the diagram and basic principles of constructing the so-called roofing pie for metal tiles.
This name is associated with big amount layers, each of which performs a specific function.
Subject to the correct selection of materials, as well as calculations and installation, it is this design that makes it possible to make a metal tile roof the most reliable and durable.
Regardless of how the instructions are applied - the installation of metal tiles is planned to be carried out with your own hands or with the invitation of hired workers, you should be aware that the roof is a rather complex structure, during the construction of which it is important to strictly follow the manufacturers' recommendations for installing metal tile coverings, as well as all construction materials. rules and regulations.
Let us remind you once again that it is recommended to watch the video - installation of metal tiles, and the entire process of installation itself should be constantly kept under control, since poor quality work may not be revealed immediately, but during operation.
For example, poor-quality installation of hydro- and vapor barriers can lead to the accumulation of condensation, a decrease in the quality of thermal insulation and rotting of wooden structural elements.
Important: a reliable and durable roof can only be built in full compliance with all the rules that the instructions include: installation of metal tiles.
- Rafter system;
- Counter rails;
- Waterproofing film;
- Vertical sheathing bars;
- Starting beam for horizontal sheathing;
- Horizontal sheathing bars;
- Additional lathing;
- Wind board;
- Bracket for gutter;
- Cornice strip;
- Metal tiles;
- Roof ridge;
- Ridge seal;
- Dormer window;
- Thermal insulation material;
- Vapor barrier material;
- Attic filing.
The figure shows a diagram of the installation of metal tiles, in accordance with which the work described below is carried out.
But first you need to figure out what tools will be used to install the coating.
Tools and equipment
This instruction: metal tiles - installation describes the process of installing metal tiles using the example of the Monterrey brand and similar ones; installation of other brands is generally carried out according to the same principle, distinctive features will be discussed at the end of the article.
To complete the work you will need the following tools and materials:
- Tool for cutting sheets of metal tiles;
- Screwdriver, preferably battery-powered;
- Medium sized hammer;
- Rule or even long strip;
- Marker.
In order to cut sheets, manufacturers advise using the following tools:
- Manual or electric scissors for metal;
- Hacksaw or electric reciprocating saw with the necessary blades;
- Electric cutting shears;
- Electric jigsaw;
- Circular saw with teeth made of pobedit.
After cutting the sheets is completed, you should remove various sawdust, which, when rusting, can lead to damage to the polymer coating of metal tiles.
Important: when cutting sheets of metal tiles, you should not use a tool with abrasive cutting wheels, such as a grinder.
In this case, exposure to high temperatures will lead to the destruction of the zinc and polymer coating of the material, which will subsequently cause a corrosion process, as a result of which rusty stains will appear on the roof.
Installation instructions
Useful: Although laying long sheets reduces the number of joints, the installation process itself is much more complicated than laying shorter sheets with overlap.
- Roof freezing;
- Ice formation on metal tiles;
- Rotting of sheathing and rafters;
- Destruction of finishing interior spaces.
To avoid these unpleasant consequences, the rules for installing metal tiles recommend using heat-insulating material of the required thickness.
In addition, when installing metal tiles, it is imperative to protect the insulation material on the metal tile side with a waterproofing film, and on the interior side with a vapor barrier film.
The removal of wet vapors from the space under the roof is ensured by the creation of natural ventilation, which is the free movement of air masses from the eaves to the roof ridge.
To do this, a gap of approximately 40 mm should be left between the waterproofing film and the metal tile using lathing. When hemming the eaves overhangs, you should leave gaps on them, and also clear special holes in rubber seal on a skate.
Useful: in the case of Yutavek and Tyvek films, the thermal insulation can be installed without a gap.
- On the rafters, beams are nailed on top of the waterproofing film, falling from the ridge to the eaves. Sheathing boards are attached to these beams;
- The first sheathing board from the eaves should be approximately 10-15 mm thicker than the others. Next, you need to maintain the correct distance between the boards;
- In the case of Monterrey metal tiles, the installation instructions: metal tiles require installing a second board with a distance of 300 mm from the bottom edge of the first (measurement is taken from the middle of the second nailed board), for Maxi metal tiles this distance is 350 mm;
- The distances between the axes of the sheathing boards, nailed later, are for different brands metal tiles: for “Monterrey” and “Supermonterrey” - 350 mm, for “Maxi” - 400 mm.
- Continuous sheathing is performed in places such as valleys, chimneys, the perimeter of dormer and dormer windows. On both sides of the ridge, two additional edged boards, while the end strips rise to the height of the metal tile profile above the ordinary sheathing.
The hermetically sealed connection of the metal tile roof to the walls on the slopes and chimneys is carried out using an internal apron made using the lower connection strips:
- The strip is applied to the pipe wall, after which its upper edge is marked on the brick;
- Using a grinder, a groove is made along the drawn line, after which the dust should be removed and the area should be washed with water;
- Installation of the internal apron begins on the pipe wall that is located at the bottom of the slope, that is, on the eaves side. The plank is cut in place, installed and secured using self-tapping screws;
- The apron is installed in the same way on all remaining sides of the pipe;
- If it is necessary to join the planks, an overlap of approximately 150 mm is made. The edge of the apron, inserted into the groove, should be processed silicone sealant, preferably colorless;
- Next, a tie is inserted into the space under the lower edge of the inner apron - a flat sheet that allows water to drain. The tie can be directed either into the valley or down to the eaves. A bead is made along the edges of the tie using a hammer and pliers;
- Sheets of metal tiles are mounted on top of the tie and apron;
- After laying the roofing around the chimney pipe, the production and installation of the outer apron, made using upper slats adjacencies;
- The upper strips are installed in the same way as the lower ones, but the upper edge is not inserted into the groove, but is attached directly to the wall.
Important: when moving on a metal tile roof, all necessary safety precautions should be observed.
Metal tiles: installation instructions prescribes wearing comfortable and soft non-slip shoes and stepping only into wave troughs. In addition, you should use an installer's belt and a safety cord.
- The first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and secured at the top using one self-tapping screw.
In this case, a projection (metal tile canopy) of about 40 mm should be made near the cornice. The second sheet is laid with an overlap of the first when installed from right to left, or its edge is placed under the first sheet in the case of installation from left to right. - The sheets are fastened to each other using self-tapping screws at the top point of the overlap; however, they should not be screwed to the sheathing under the metal tiles - it should be possible to freely move the sheets relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the ridge part.
- Laying the third sheet is carried out similarly to the second, after which the sheets fastened together are aligned parallel to the cornice.
If it is necessary to join the sheets along the length, you should follow the order of their laying shown in Figure B.
Important: if available protective film on metal tiles, it must be removed before installation.
Important: when purchasing metal tiles, you need to find out the warranty conditions for the material.
Many manufacturers provide a guarantee for metal tiles only if they use a specific brand of screws, so it is recommended to purchase screws from the supplier along with the material itself.
When installing ventilation elements, the first step is to draw a hole in the metal tile and cut it according to the template.
Next, silicone is applied to the passage element, after which the structure is attached to the metal tile using self-tapping screws.
The ventilation outlet is inserted into the passage element, leveled vertically using a level and also secured with self-tapping screws.
To connect the hood and the indoor air duct it is used corrugated pipe, passed through the roof pie, after which the passage is sealed with adhesive tape.- To install stairs, brackets are used in the amount of 4 pieces per section.
They are placed on the staircase posts and secured with M8x40 bolts.
The brackets are fastened to the roof surface in wave deflections using Ш8x60 bolts, and their junction points are sealed.
Along the length of the roof slope, the staircase is assembled in sections, the topmost of which is attached to the ridge beam with special brackets.
The vertical fencing grid, which ensures safety when performing roof maintenance, is installed on a continuous sheathing at the level of the eaves.
The fence supports are installed in the deflections of the metal tile waves, the brackets are attached to the support beam using galvanized M8x60 screws using a rubber gasket.
The distance between supports should be approximately 900 mm. The supports are adjusted relative to the slope of the roof and fixed, after which the fence itself is hung on them.
At the junction points of the supports and sections of the fence, holes are drilled (12 mm in the lower crossbar, 12 mm in the upper).
Through these holes, the supports are connected to the sections using appropriate bolts. After installation is complete, all connection points should be sealed.
To service antennas, chimneys and other elements, transition bridges are installed on the roof, for the installation of which a continuous sheathing is also carried out in advance.
The fastening of the bridge support brackets is carried out in the same way as the roof fencing; the inclination is adjusted by selecting the holes in the fastening brackets.
Fixation is carried out using M8x20 bolts, located two on each side of the platform.
Tubular snow retainers are installed to protect against avalanches of snow cover from the roof; the sheathing is also continuous.
The brackets are attached in increments of about 100 cm; the end brackets are installed approximately 50 cm from the end of the snow guard.
The snow guard should also be removed 35 cm from the roof eaves. If the length of the slope exceeds 8 m, an intermediate row of snow retainers is installed.Important: if there are skylights, snow guards must also be installed above them.
The sheathing is made from beams or edged boards treated with antiseptic preparations. The recommended cross-section of beams is 50x50 mm, boards - 100x32 mm.
Installation of the sheathing is carried out in several stages:
Important: if the rafter pitch exceeds 1000 mm, thicker boards should be used for lathing.
Installation of metal tiles. Endova
Before the metal tiles are laid, the instructions provide for attaching the bottom valley strip using self-tapping screws to the continuous sheathing along the internal joint of the slopes.
If it is necessary to join the planks, an overlap of 100-150 mm is made. Next, marking and, if necessary, cutting of metal tile sheets is carried out.
Installation of metal tiles is carried out from the bottom up (see figure). The upper joint of the sheets rarely has an attractive appearance, so a decorative element is installed on top of it, for example, the upper valley strip.
Important: the weakest point of the roof is the joints. In order to avoid subsequent roof repairs, their installation instructions: metal tiles require special care.
Installation of other types of metal tiles
The general procedure for constructing a metal tile roof was discussed above; we will consider the main nuances when installing certain types of material.
The figure shows that the pitch of the sheathing when installing metal tiles of the “Cascade” brand differs from the pitch for the “Elite” and “Monterrey” brands. These differences are due to differences in the dimensions of the material profile.
When installing metal tiles of the Andalusia brand, which has a Z-shaped lock, you should also take into account its nuances. The locking part of this brand has perforations, which simplifies the positioning of the sheet on the roof and its fastening.
In this case, the fasteners are hidden, which allows you to make the joints of the sheets almost invisible.
When purchasing metal tiles, you should find out various details about a specific type of material, and when performing installation, it is important to follow the rules and requirements described in this manual. This will allow you to build a reliable and durable metal tile roof.
Metal tiles are extremely popular because they have significant advantages over other roofing materials. Using metal tiles to cover the roof, you will provide your home with reliable protection from aggressive influences environment. Let's considerhow to cover a roof with metal tilesand what it will take.
The advantages of this material include:
- low cost;
- pleasant appearance;
- reliability;
- light weight;
- long service life.
What will be required at work?
Before starting work, you need not only to carefully study the instructions, but also take care of all the necessary materials and tools. First of all this:
- metal scissors;
- roulette;
- hammer;
- hacksaw;
- marker;
- stapler with galvanized staples;
- wooden slats of suitable length;
- screwdriver;
- drill.
Note! It will be quite difficult to cut metal tiles with hand scissors. complex profile, so it is better to use a power tool for this (if possible).
It is also worth noting that the material is coated with a special polymer coating, which must not be damaged under any circumstances - it performs an anti-corrosion function. For this reason, you should exclude all cutting options that involve heating the area being cut. The optimal tool a grinder can be used for cutting, but onlywith abrasive wheel.
Regarding necessary materials, then for work you will need:
- metal tiles;
- board for constructing sheathing, 2.5x10cm;
- wooden beam, 2.5x5 cm;
- mineral wool for insulation;
- waterproofing (any except bitumen).
Let us immediately make a reservation that this material is not suitable for all types of roofing. The fact is that the roof must meet certain requirements, namely:
- to be pitched;
- have a slope of more than 14°;
- have simple geometry.
If the roof has complex design, albeit straight, then during installation it will be necessary to make more than a dozen trimmings, which will increase material consumption(after all, most of it will simply go to waste). Consequently, this will greatly increase the cost of building materials and installation itself.
Preliminary roof measurement
You need to start work with a competent measurement of the roof, its length and width - this will allow you to calculate the required amount of materials. If the width of the slope is no more than six meters, the length of one sheet should be equal to this width (with a small margin for the cornice). But if the width of the building exceeds six meters, then the sheet is divided into two parts, which are installed with an overlap of approximately 10 cm.
The sheet of tile itself must be at least 4 cm longer than the slope. The fact is that the sheet is attached to the slope, slightly overlapping the cornice. This allows for good ventilation under the roof ridge.
After this, the roof needs to be measured diagonally. It is also worth making sure that the roof has the correct geometric shape. Moreover, at this stage all defects and distortions will be revealed that need to be corrected immediately.
Before you begin installing the sheathing and laying the tiles, you need to ensure that the roof has good waterproofing. This will prevent condensation on the inside of the roof, and even after leakage, moisture will be retained by a special substance - absorber
Vapor barrier film is considered the most affordable and therefore popular insulating material. Treated with a special absorbent substance, it is installed directly above the room.
The insulation must be laid on the rafter system so that the initial overhang layer does not exceed 2 cm. The following layers are overlapped by approximately 15 cm. A small sag can be left between the rafters, but not more than 2 cm. To fix the film, galvanized nails or a mounting stapler are used.
In parallel with waterproofing, the roof should also be insulated. Insulation boards are placed between the rafters. If the material is made in the form of mats, then it must be secured with the same mounting stapler (in in this case it all depends on the chosen material; this issue has already been discussed in one of the previous articles).
Assembling the sheathing
To assemble the sheathing, it is necessary to secure wooden beams along the slope to the waterproofing layer. Then boards 2.5 cm thick and 10 cm wide are attached to the beams.
Note! Installation of boards must begin from the bottom! The first board should be approximately 1–2 cm thicker than the others, because it is on it that the edges of the metal tile sheets will be installed.
The pitch between the boards can be different, from 30 to 45 cm, depending on the transverse profile of the roofing material. It is typical that the step between the first and second boards should be approximately 4 cm smaller than between other battens. Before starting work, all wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic and (if possible) a fire retardant.
When installing the sheathing, special attention should be paid to the auxiliary elements.
- On both sides of the roof you need to install additional bars on the rafters - this will increase the reliability of fixing the ridge.
- When installing waterproofing, you need to extend it a couple of centimeters onto the chimney pipe and seal it with reinforced tape - this will help hide the gaps that have formed. On the chimney itself, it is necessary to make grooves (small grooves) 2 cm deep. Upon completion installation work You need to install adjacent strips into these grooves and insulate the joints with silicone sealant.
- Valleys should be installed in the gaps formed between the slopes. To do this, a continuous sheathing with an additional layer of waterproofing is mounted from boards. Each of the valleys should be installed above the cornice strip and secured with self-tapping screws every 25 cm.
- You need to install a cornice strip on the front board with self-tapping screws and secure it every 25 cm. Such a strip must withstand strong winds, so it is installed with an overlap of 12 cm.
Work on laying tiles is carried out in the following order.
First stage. Actually, we have already discussed it above - it consists of installing a cornice strip to the frontal board of the sheathing. We remind you once again about the mandatory 12-centimeter overlap.
- When gable roofyou need to start work from the end of the ramp. If it was decided to cover from the right slope, then each subsequent sheet is installed on the extreme wave of the previous one. But if the material lies on the left end, then the new sheet is installed under the extreme wave of the one in front of it.
- Hip roof you need to cover from the highest point, gradually lowering (here it’s all about the peculiarities of the geometric shape of the hipped roof).
All sheets must be laid parallel to the cornice, with a mandatory 4-centimeter plumb line.
Third stage . If the sheets are installed in one row , then the first of them needs to be aligned with the cornice and temporarily fixed with a self-tapping screw in the area of the ridge. The second sheet needs to be aligned with the first and temporarily connected. So it is necessary to install two more sheets, then align the formed block along the cornice and secure it to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.
When multi-row layingmetal tiles, the first sheet must be installed at the bottom, secured with a self-tapping screw and aligned with the end and cornice. A second sheet of tile is installed on top, and a third one on the side. All of them are temporarily attached with self-tapping screws. Then you need to level the formed block and finally fix it on the sheathing.
Finally, if the slope hastriangular shape, then first you need to determine and mark the center line on it. The same line should be drawn on a sheet of tiles. Then both lines are combined, the sheet is fixed with self-tapping screws. Subsequent installation is carried out on both sides of the first sheet.
Fourth stage . Self-tapping screws should be screwed into the recesses of the sheetsin one wave. Each new row of screws should be staggered relative to the previous one. For each square meter 7–8 screws should come out of the material.
Overlaps need to be strengthened in each wave.
When covering a roof with metal tiles, special attention should be paid to the reliability of fastening the sheets and the accuracy of their joining.
As a conclusion
All work must be carried out in accordance with the instructions given, ensuring that the wooden elements are thoroughly dried and there are no signs of rotting on them. This is the only way to achieve durability and reliability of the structure, as well as an attractive appearance of the roof.
Video - Installation instructions for metal tiles
Metal tiles are a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, bitumen shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent technical characteristics make it an excellent option for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, let’s look at how to install metal tiles yourself: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations from specialists.
A tile roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of the best options for decorating a home. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:
- light weight (4-6 kg/m²), which ensures very little load on the roof;
It is distinguished by an affordable price, long service life and expressive appearance.
- simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
- wide range of color solutions;
- the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
- the coating is equipped with stiffening ribs, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface can withstand a load of 200 kg/m², even if 0.5 mm thick sheets were used;
- the material is extremely temperature resistant. It is not afraid of any changes, and the rate of thermal expansion is minimal.
There is practically no need to talk about the disadvantages of metal tiles, with the possible exception of increased noise levels on days when it rains. But this can also be dealt with if you first lay a layer of glass wool.
Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples
Before you begin considering the installation process of this roofing material, you need to decide exactly how the material should be used.
Viewing photos of roofs on which metal tiles look attractive is far from best method in this case, since during the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Let's look at what the buyer needs to know.
First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:
- different types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
- special passage units for installing pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
- elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - walking bridges, ladders, snow guards;
- internal and external valleys;
- other necessary elements are wall profiles, pediments, metal tile eaves, the installation of which is an obligatory part of the roofing arrangement.
Important! The presence of all of the listed elements among the seller’s offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.
In addition, it is worth paying attention to studying the markings, which must be present on each certified material. Typically, production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the level of quality of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied on top of the sheet.
So, here is what information you can glean by reading the information provided on back side metal tile sheet:
- presence of polymers;
- how much zinc is per 1 m² of sheet;
- production date and warranty period for the use of the material;
- manufacturer's name;
- sheet thickness.
During the visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both on the front and back sides of the sheet, as well as the presence of all required markings.
Important! If we're talking about about the material purchased from a large manufacturer, the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.
Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work
Considering the fact that the price of installing metal tiles has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything they need on their own. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much professional installation of metal tiles costs. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and can increase depending on the complexity.
The process of installing a metal tile roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.
Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations
The first thing that needs to be done if a decision has been made to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is to carry out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of what materials will be required and, accordingly, avoid unnecessary costs.
Let's start by clarifying some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly a metal tile roof is constructed does not arise. If you look at a roof that has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.
There is such a thing as a “model”. This name refers to sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. Sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10 can be found on sale.
Helpful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets standard sizes, you can consider the option of individually manufacturing metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost noticeably more, but this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.
In the process of choosing the appropriate sheet size, you need to be guided by the fact that after installation the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. It is quite easy to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.
When purchasing metal tiles, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements, which are included in the kit and allow for correct installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which must have the same color as the tiles.
In the process of purchasing metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available in sufficient quantity and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.
Important! 11 degrees is the minimum slope at which metal tiles can be installed.
Materials and tools for laying metal tiles with your own hands
In order to install metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care in advance of having some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:
- screwdriver;
- electric drill;
- scissors for cutting metal;
- yardstick;
- hammer;
- marker;
- mounting tape.
It is also worth taking care of the presence of a stepladder and means intended for personal protection face and hands (glasses, gloves).
As for Supplies, which will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tiles, then this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as an aeroroller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and 2.5x10 cm boards. Of course, fasteners will also be required elements - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.
Helpful advice! To give the coating an attractive appearance, you should use decorative overlays.
How to attach metal tiles: stages of preparatory work
The low weight of metal tiles allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work to be carried out before proceeding to installation. Nevertheless, it is still necessary to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made from slats is quite suitable.
The procedure is extremely simple - based on the pitch of the selected metal tile, slats are placed on the surface. It is important to maintain a uniform distance so that during the process of attaching the roofing material you do not have to screw screws into the void. Another important factor to consider when installing the sheathing is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place rafters directly above the windows.
Related article:
Thermal insulation during installation of a metal roof
When it comes to installing a roof made of metal tiles, the thermal insulation material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss and also to reduce the noise level produced by raindrops hitting the surface. To do this, first lay on the rafters vapor barrier material, and then a layer of thermal insulation. It is important that the thickness of the layer does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached to the top, fixing it with wooden blocks directly to the rafters.
Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sagging there will be no problems with water drainage.
This “pie” is the most effective roof thermal insulation system that metal tile installation technology allows. As for the choice of thermal insulation material, there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.
Installation of a metal tile roof: basic operating rules
Before you begin work directly related to laying metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will allow you to avoid common mistakes and do everything necessary with the highest possible quality:
- There are two ways to lay sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each subsequent sheet must be laid overlapping the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet must be overlapped.
- There is no need to attach each sheet completely at once. Before screwing the metal tiles, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure that they are located as needed and, if necessary, trim them. For final fastening, use one self-tapping screw, which passes through all the sheets.
- The service life of the entire roof greatly depends on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, due attention should be paid to the choice of self-tapping screws. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads that can hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
- In those places where several sheets were fastened with one fastener at once, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.
Scheme of fastening metal tiles and other necessary elements
Certain rules also exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:
- the end strips must be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave must be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the ridge will fit onto the pediment;
- for the cornice strip it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the bottom bar of the sheathing, to which it is attached with nails;
- It is imperative to lay an additional layer of sealing material between the metal tile sheet and the roofing strip;
- for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Typically, 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
- if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aerial roller between the ridge strip and the material itself. This will prevent precipitation from penetrating under the ridge;
- The ridge must be fixed to the planks, which are located at the end of the entire structure. In this case, calculations must be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is done with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
- It is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a drip line under metal tiles, and strictly follow all instructions.
Helpful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose inclination angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worth carrying out calculations in advance that will allow you to determine whether it is possible to install a specific model of ridge strip in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, you may even need to completely replace the entire roofing covering.
It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge strip can be slightly adjusted. That is, it can not be bent or straightened in order to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.
Installation of a valley when roofing with metal tiles
Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected - valley. For each such element, an additional board must be attached. In this case, fastening must begin from the bottom, gradually moving upward and not forgetting about the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the eaves must be cut bottom bar. Then follows the flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.
There remains a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the fastening should be located 25 cm from the valley axis. If you follow this technology, then eventually the sheet, at the fastening point, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.
As for the installation of the valley below, it must begin before laying the roofing material. This is important to ensure that water flows directly into the additional element in the future.
Important! All errors in the process of calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation, most likely the roof will leak.
In order to cover those places where the cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:
- installation must be done from the bottom up;
- a sealant between the lining and the tile is not needed;
- the overlays must be overlapped by at least 10 cm;
- fastening elements (in this case self-tapping screws) should not cause damage to the valley.
Very often you have to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, consider the case when installing dormer window. In such a situation, it is necessary to lay a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the metal tile sheet. The cornice cut is covered with a plank. And sealing material must be laid along the walls.
How to lay metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope
If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with metal tiles, then the installation of two additional bars will be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the “ridge”. After this they mount cornice board and begin assembling the sheathing. The sheathing pitch for metal tiles in this case is calculated in the same way as with the standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tiles only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and aligning the first sheet along the eaves strip.
Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the “ridge” should not exceed 10 cm.
In order to install the ridge assemblies, you need to align the ridge strips relative to the angle of the “ridge”. If you use a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the existing corners, and for a semicircular ridge special plugs are provided. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.
The ridge strip must be located strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. It's not too much difficult task, if the slope angles are the same. If they have different sizes, then the task becomes significantly more complicated. As auxiliary material use bright polyurethane foam, which allows you to determine the quality of the connection to the slopes.
Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"
A separate type of metal tile that is undoubtedly worthy of attention is Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:
- extremely high level resistance of the material to both ultraviolet radiation and other external factors, such as moisture and temperature;
- due to the layer of polymer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout its entire service life;
- the material is extremely durable and hard, so it can withstand heavy loads;
- multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
- due to its low weight (one square meter of material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the rafter system is significantly reduced;
- using this option is a great savings, since there is no need to take a large step between fasteners. Initially, the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles provide for 35-centimeter steps.
This material has only two disadvantages - a large amount of residue after installation, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.
As for the features that you need to know about before laying Montrerey metal tiles, the following aspects play a role here:
- For various models of this material, it is necessary to prepare various lathing. So, for Standard or Super metal tiles, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for Lux or Maxi, the step should be 40 cm;
- in the most difficult places on the roof (usually internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous sheathing;
- on the junction strips, for the chimney exit, you need to install internal aprons;
- the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
- Before installing the material must be removed protective covering, since this may not be possible in the future.
It is strictly forbidden to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the profile becoming wrinkled. Also, under no circumstances should you use a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels for this purpose.
Interesting! Cascade metal tiles also look great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.
How to properly care for a metal roof covering
After studying the step-by-step instructions for installing metal siding, you can carry out its high-quality installation. But in order for the material to last for many years, you need to know how to care for it.
The top layer of metal tiles is polymer material, which is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure to external factors: precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to deteriorate, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the service life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:
- remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
- If we are talking about eliminating more complex stains, then it is permissible to use cleaning agents, but only those intended for polymer surfaces. The use of aggressive chemicals is strictly prohibited, as they destroy the protective layer and render the material unusable;
- cleaning of gutters is carried out using a stream of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the eaves;
- It is possible and necessary to clear snow, but this should only be done using tools that are not capable of causing damage to the delicate coating.
Subject to these simple but extremely important rules, metal roofing can serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.
Common mistakes when installing a metal tile roof with your own hands
Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes, which can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such carelessness can lead to additional expenses for the purchase of materials and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:
- installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
- It is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of a wave, as this may cause deformation;
- Moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
- when moving along the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
- You can only handle the material while wearing gloves.
Taking these simple rules into account, as well as acting in accordance with the technology for laying metal tiles, you can make a beautiful and reliable roof yourself.
Installation of snow guards on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties
A high level of safety is one of the main requirements for roofing made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special structures are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure safe snow removal from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they help maintain the original shape of the structure and prevent it from deforming under the weight of icy snow. And considering that its weight in some cases can exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.
Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow puts on the roof surface should be thought out at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.
It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. This depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:
Q = G×s
In this case, Q is the load exerted by the snow, G is the mass of snow on the flat surface of the roof, which can be found from a special table, and S is the correction factor, which depends on the angle of the roof: > 25° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is more than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation will definitely not linger on the surface.
In order to determine the G index, you need to refer to a special table that provides information regarding snow cover for each region of the country.
Installation of tubular snow guards on metal tiles: installation rules
As a rule, a pipe is used as a basis for snow retention, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixation is made in the places where the roof and load-bearing wall connect.
It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the eaves strip for metal tiles, as this may lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a slope whose length is quite large, then the installation of snow retainers on metal tiles must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.
The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to installing such a system if the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow guard is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.
Lattice snow guards for metal roofing: how to attach correctly
Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems preferentially choose this option. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and “royal”, although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the lattice.
The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainer is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter when it comes to retaining snow, but also in summer. After all, it is during the warm season that all kinds of repair work are most often carried out.
Corner snow retainers for metal tiles
Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets, which are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget options, which at the same time allows you to effectively prevent snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will suit your existing metal tiles, since the range of color options is extremely large.
To fix the corner snow guards on the roof of a metal roof, screws and ordinary metal corners are used. Fastening is carried out on the upper wave of the sheet.
These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. Metal tiles are perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with selection and fixation.
Installation of a roof window in metal tiles
It is believed that installing roof windows is not a task for beginners, and it is best to contact specialists who have adequate experience in this field. But this does not mean that it is impossible to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well proceed without any problems.
First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where rafter step very small, they install two small windows in adjacent niches.
The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing “pie” is completely made, then you need to install the mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are installed. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation entering the house.
Of course, you have to make some changes to the process of installing the sheathing under the metal tiles, and pay special attention to the issue of installing the ridge of the metal tiles if a roof window is planned. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.
Installation of metal tiles: video instructions for beginners
For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to attach metal tiles to a roof. A visual demonstration, as well as recommendations from specialists, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve well for many years.
Metal tiles are a modern roofing material that successfully combines an attractive appearance ceramic tiles with light weight and inexpensive price metal coatings. Good people consider its merits performance characteristics, corrosion resistance and long service life. It is important that, knowing the features of this material and having basic construction skills, you can easily cover the roof with metal tiles on your own. Installing metal tiles with your own hands is reminiscent of the process of creating a multi-layer cake, the components of which improve and complement each other. In this article, we will step by step describe a proven “recipe” that creates a reliable, high-quality roof made of metal profiles.
Laying metal tiles with your own hands is a proven way to quickly and inexpensively cover the roof of a garage, garden or small residential building. This roofing covering is one of the varieties metal profile, which has a wavy relief that resembles the shape of traditional tiles. Metal tiles are made of galvanized steel, which is coated during the production process. polymer coating from pural, plastisol or polyester. A roof made from this material has the following advantages:
- A light weight. One square meter of metal roofing weighs 3.5-4.5 kg, which allows you to increase the pitch between the elements of the rafter frame, reducing the cost of constructing the roof.
- Mechanical strength. A roof made of this material has high strength and load-bearing capacity, so it can easily withstand snow and wind loads, even if the pitch between the rafters is quite large.
- Corrosion resistance. A roof made of metal profiles is not subject to the destructive effects of corrosion, because it is reliably protected by a layer of zinc and a polymer coating.
- Long service life. A do-it-yourself metal tile roof lasts more than 20 years, thanks to high quality metal and strength of polymer protection.
Important! Knowing how to cover a roof with metal tiles yourself, you can save a lot of money, because installing a roof covering costs 50-70% of the cost of purchasing materials.
Roofing pie composition
Do-it-yourself installation of metal tiles involves creating a multi-layer roofing cake, which consists of a vapor barrier, insulation, waterproofing and the actual coating itself. In order for a roof made of metal profiles to last a long time, it is worth choosing the right structural components that match each other and following the rules prescribed by the installation instructions. The roofing pie for metal tiles consists of the following parts:
- Vapor barrier. This is the name for a film that allows steam to pass through, but blocks water and condensation, protecting the insulation from getting wet. The vapor barrier must be laid on the lower surface of the rafters and secured with a construction stapler.
- Rafter legs. To cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate the pitch between the rafters and install them evenly on the ridge girder and mauerlat. The strength and load-bearing capacity of the roof depends on how many rafters the roofing material supports.
- Thermal insulation. Thermal insulation is installed between the rafters of the frame, so the step between them must correspond to the width of the insulation.
- Waterproofing. Waterproofing must be laid over the rafters so that it protects the wooden frame elements from condensation or atmospheric moisture.
- Lathing. This element of the rafter frame is used to distribute the weight of the roofing material. Roofing material must be laid on the sheathing. The pitch between its slats is chosen in accordance with the weight of the coating and the angle of inclination of the slope.
- Roofing material. Do-it-yourself metal tiles are laid on the sheathing. For fixation, special roofing screws are used.
Please note that there are 2 types of metal roofing – warm and cold. Cold roof differs from warm in the absence of a thermal insulation layer and vapor barrier in the roofing cake. This design is cheaper, but can only be used in cases where the attic or second floor is not heated.
Rafter frame and sheathing
Before covering the roof with metal tiles, it is necessary to assemble the rafter frame. The frame is a kind of supporting skeleton of a structure that supports its geometry, and also distributes and transfers the weight of the roof to the foundation of the structure. It is made from coniferous wood impregnated with antiseptic and fire retardant, or metal. A metal rafter system is more expensive, but can withstand greater loads, so you can increase the spacing between elements. The roof frame is assembled in the following sequence:
- First of all, the Mauerlat is installed. The support beam is laid on the top frame of the house, secured with metal studs embedded in concrete or anchor bolts. The Mauerlat is made of timber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm and is mounted on the walls on which it will rest roofing slopes. How many slopes a roof has - so many support beams are needed.
- Then, tightening ties are installed to connect the Mauerlat in increments of 1-1.2 meters. The puffs are made from timber 100x100 mm or 100x150 mm.
- Vertical posts are installed in the middle of each puff in increments of 1-1.2 m. To ensure that they stand vertically, they are supported with temporary slopes.
- A ridge run needs to be placed on top of the posts. This is the name of the beam that forms, the rafter legs will rest on it.
- Next, it is necessary to install the rafter legs of the frame in increments of 0.6-1.2 m. The spacing between the rafters depends on how much the roof covering weighs, the cross-section of the element and the width of the insulation.
- The rafters must be covered with waterproofing to protect against condensation and atmospheric moisture. The film should be laid “slack” so that it does not tear under water pressure.
- Lastly, you need to install a sheathing made of slats with a cross-section of 30x30 mm or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. The pitch between the sheathing elements is chosen in accordance with the weight of the roofing material and how many degrees the angle is between the surface of the slope and the base of the roof. The flatter the roof, the denser the sheathing should be, and the smaller the step between the rivers.
Important! It is possible to cover a roof with metal tiles, regardless of its design. The minimum recommended slope for this type of roofing material is 12-15 degrees. If the roof is flatter, then the installation is carried out with the obligatory treatment of the joints with sealant to prevent leaks.
Insulation
Before laying metal tiles, you should take care to protect the wooden frame elements from steam, condensation and moisture. Metal roofing coverings have high thermal conductivity, so they heat up quickly, but they also give off heat easily, so they need to be insulated. During the construction of a metal roof, 3 types of insulation are installed:
- Vapor barrier. The instructions for laying metal profiles require the mandatory installation of a vapor barrier on the bottom surface rafter legs. This role is played by special membranes that allow air to pass through, but block water, preventing the insulation from getting wet. Indeed, with increasing humidity thermal insulation material by just 5% its effectiveness is reduced by half and is not restored after drying.
- Thermal insulation. Insulation is laid between the rafters to maintain the temperature in the house. It protects against cold air in winter and prevents heating of the under-roof space from the hot roof in summer. Mineral wool, ecowool, glass wool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam are used as insulation. How many layers of insulation are needed to protect a house from freezing is calculated in accordance with climatic conditions.
- Waterproofing. Waterproofing material, protecting the rafter frame and insulation from moisture, is laid on top of the rafter legs. Strips of film or diffuse membrane are mounted in overlapping strips to prevent water from flowing between them.
Experienced craftsmen claim that it is impossible to properly cover a roof with metal tiles without using all three types of insulation in a comprehensive manner. Only by working together do insulation, vapor barrier, and waterproofing become effective.
Covering flooring
Instructions on how to properly lay metal tiles are popular among inexperienced craftsmen. To work with this unpretentious roofing material No special skills or complex tools are required. Laying the covering will be done using roofing screws, a screwdriver, a building level and sealant, and a circular saw with a metal disc. The process of laying a metal profile is as follows:
- Before laying metal tiles, the sheets are first cut. To simplify this task, you can purchase metal tiles whose sheet length corresponds to the size of the slope, then there will be no horizontal joints during installation and you won’t have to cut the material. In other cases, a circular saw or jigsaw is used to cut the coating to size.
- Then the metal tiles are laid. The bottom row is laid out first, starting from the edge of the slope. An overlap of 10-23 cm or 1-2 waves is made between the sheets. The flatter the roof, the greater the overlap.
- The joints between the sheets can be treated with silicone-based sealant to prevent leaks.
- Each sheet of metal tile is fixed using galvanized self-tapping screws equipped with a wide press washer, which closes the mounting hole from water penetration.
- After laying the covering, the ridge, ends, and eaves of the slope are decorated using additional elements, and drainage elements are installed.
Important! Knowing how to lay metal tiles correctly, without resorting to the services of a professional team of builders, you can significantly reduce construction costs. Handle your roof decking with this practical and lightweight material You can do it together in 3-5 days.
Video instruction
