For a comfortable atmosphere in the house, it is necessary that the plumbing work properly. At the same time, I would like to note that the sewerage system and toilet, which are its components, play an important role. In turn, for the toilet to work well, you need to pay attention to it technological features, its design, as well as the condition of the reinforcement.
What types can there be?
Before deciding how to choose fittings for a toilet, let’s try to understand what should be understood by the word “fittings”. This word should be understood as all the constituent elements that are aimed at ensuring the operation of plumbing, which includes, among other things, the toilet.
According to the functions performed, the following types can be distinguished:
- fittings that block the flow of water after the tank is filled;
- fittings that provide drainage of liquid.
Each type constitutes separate mechanisms, which, nevertheless, are closely related to each other. The latter circumstance leads to the fact that if one of them breaks down, the second one stops working too.
How is the tank filled?
The function of filling the tank, as described earlier, is assigned to the mechanism in question. Let's highlight its main details. Thus, the shut-off system is a set of shut-off valves, levers, float and supply fittings.
Several levers usually form a single set of metal or plastic parts, connected to the float. To make the latter, foam or a hollow plastic balloon is usually used; it is designed to regulate the water level in the drain tank and determine when the tank is full.
In this case, all shut-off valves operate as follows. First, the liquid fills the drain tank. In this case, the float rises to a certain limit.
As described earlier, the float and levers are connected, therefore, when the float reaches a certain limit, the lever acts on a valve specially installed for locking, and the flow of water is blocked.
You can also highlight different types fittings according to the location of the liquid supply. Thus, water, if there are fittings for a toilet with a side connection, can flow from the side, while the water supply is usually located on top.
With this arrangement, water is usually drawn in with great noise. The least noise is created by water supply from below. Water can also be supplied from above, but this is a rather rare design.
Thus, fittings for a toilet with a bottom connection seem to be the most preferable.
How to drain
Let's consider the principle of operation of the fittings that ensure the drainage of water. Components such fittings will be:
- release hole having a certain angle of inclination;
- an overflow tube is required;
- The system is not complete without a valve cover and rubber band
- An important part should also be considered the drain button and the system of mechanisms that ensure its operation.
At the same time, there are several systems that differ in design. So, there is a full flush system with a button; a system that has two modes of water drainage, provided with a special function - you can interrupt the drainage of liquid.
In the latter case, an analogue of a key is used that releases either the water completely or partially. I would like to make a separate point about the rod fittings used for the toilet, which operate on the basis of the rod.
There are three types of float valves. These are piston-operated valves equipped with a special lever. “Croydon” - this mechanism was used previously, in modern toilets, as a rule, it is replaced by another. A valve based on a silicone or rubber membrane that replaces a gasket.
It should be added that if the float fails, the entire locking system will have to be replaced completely.
When choosing fittings for a toilet, pay attention to the selection of high-quality, durable plastic parts so that the fittings are resistant to overheating and cooling, and can withstand mechanical loads.
The membrane valve must be selected taking into account the fact that salt-rich water with impurities quickly damages the membrane. It is also recommended to choose products of a good brand to exclude defects. It is also useful to familiarize yourself with photos of toilet fittings before purchasing.
What to do if it breaks down
If problems arise during the operation of plumbing, then to eliminate them it is worth following a certain algorithm. First, find out the causes of the breakdown, adjust the water flow level, and replace worn parts.
Then you should clean the channels, as well as system parts, from plaque and dirt. In case of serious damage, you should contact a specialist.
Photo of toilet fittings
The water connection to the toilet cistern can be made from below or from the side - this depends both on the design of the toilet itself and on the features of the water supply system. The fittings for a flush tank with a side connection are easy to maintain and reliable, and its price is at an affordable level. At the same time, it performs its functions fully, so when arranging an inexpensive bathroom, it is appropriate to choose it.
Functions of tank fittings:
- automatic dialing required quantity water;
- flushing a certain amount of water into the toilet;
- overflow protection.
The side supply is easier to connect to the water supply system, especially when we're talking about about houses old buildings, in which water sockets are designed for just such a connection. In modern universal fittings with lateral supply, the role of a drain element can be played by either a rod or a button.
Our offer
In Moscow, you can buy high-quality fittings with side connections in the Santekhkomplekt online store. We work with Russian brands “ANI Plast”, “Inkoer”, “RBM” and “Uklad”, whose products are highly valued for their stable high quality and affordable prices.
There are rod and push-button fittings on sale, including dual-mode ones. If you need help choosing or a hint on the characteristics of the model you like, call our managers and they will help you figure it out and place an order. You can find the number for your city at the top of the page.
The internal filling of the tank is not a very complicated device, but its breakdown can significantly reduce the comfortable feeling for the residents of the house. It happens that everything looks normal, but the operation of the drain mechanism leaves much to be desired.
To eliminate problems, you will need to properly configure the toilet fittings. This procedure must be performed when installing plumbing fixtures, and later the drain operation must be periodically adjusted.
If you encounter such a problem, our material will help you quickly solve it, without even resorting to the help of specialists. We'll tell you how to get it working drain device toilet. For clarity, the material contains thematic photos and videos.
The principle of operation of a regular tank is not complicated: it has a hole through which water flows and a place where water is discharged into the toilet. The first is closed with a special valve, the second with a flap. When you press a lever or button, the flap rises and the water, in whole or in part, flows into the toilet, and then into the sewer.
After this, the valve returns to its place and closes the drain point. Immediately after this, it is triggered, which opens a hole for water to enter. The tank is filled to a certain level, after which the inlet is closed. The water supply and shut-off are adjusted using.
The fittings for the cistern are simple mechanical device, ensuring water is drawn into a sanitary container and drained when a lever or button is pressed
There are separate and combined designs of fittings that collect the volume of water required for flushing and drain it after activating the flushing device.
Separate and combined options
Separate option has been used for many decades. It is considered cheaper and easier to repair and configure. With this design, the fill valve and damper are installed separately, they are not connected to each other.
To control the flow and shutdown of water they use, in the role of which even a piece of ordinary foam is sometimes used. In addition to a mechanical damper, an air valve can be used for the drain hole.
A rope or chain can be used as a lever to lift the damper or open the valve. This is a typical option for retro-style models, when the tank is placed quite high.
In compact toilet models, control is most often carried out using a button that needs to be pressed. For those with special needs, a foot pedal may be installed, but this is a rare option.
IN last years Models with a double button are very popular, which allow you to empty the tank not only completely, but also halfway, in order to save some of the water.
Separate option fittings is convenient in that you can repair and configure individual parts of the system separately.
Combined type fittings are used in high-class plumbing, here the drain and water supply are connected in common system. This option is considered more reliable, convenient and expensive. If this mechanism breaks down, repairs will require completely dismantling the system. Setup can also be a bit tricky.
Materials for making devices
There is a rubber gasket at the lower end of the shut-off valve, the wear of which causes water to constantly leak into the toilet.
Sometimes the following unpleasant situation is observed: the tank is either only partially filled or remains practically empty. Most likely, the culprit is a locking mechanism that is installed incorrectly or worn out.
We replace the water drainage mechanism as follows:
Image gallery
Constantly gurgling water in the tank and, as a result, money paid for water supply flowing into the sewer system is a typical picture of a broken toilet. To solve this problem, you need to change the fittings for the flush tank. How to do this and how to choose the right one will be discussed in this article.
Everyone is familiar with the sound of water running in the toilet. This sound indicates that it is time to repair the toilet. At first glance, the problem is very serious and insoluble without the appropriate knowledge and skills. However, this is only at first glance. In fact, toilet repair most often means repairing or replacing broken cistern fittings. This procedure is simple and will not take you much time.
How is the flush cistern constructed? In fact, it contains two devices independent from each other - a fill valve (through which water enters the tank) and a drain column (it ensures the flow of water from the tank into the toilet and, accordingly, flushing). The combination of these two devices forms the fittings for the toilet flush cistern. Various manufacturers offer their models with some unique designs, in different forms and colors. Despite such diversity, it is important to understand that almost all of them are universal (the probability that a universal fitting purchased in a store will suit you is about 95%). That is, knowing your type, you can easily buy the fittings you need at any plumbing store. This article does not cover fittings for built-in tanks at all. The fact is that they just do not fall into the above 95% of universal options.
And so, all that remains is to find out what types of fittings there are and how you can independently determine which one is needed in your case.
Types of fittings for flush cistern
Since the fittings, as mentioned above, consist of two independent devices, the classification can be carried out according to:
- Fill valve type:
- with side supply - the valve is mounted on the side wall of the tank. Accordingly, the inlet connection (flexible hose from water pipe to the tank) fits from the side;
- with bottom supply - the valve is mounted on the bottom wall of the tank. In this case, the liner is connected from below.
- Type of drain column:
- with a button - to flush, you need to press the button on the tank lid;
- with a rod - to flush, the rod with the decorative element at the end.
It should be noted that push-button speakers, in turn, are also divided into two subtypes:
- With single flush - one button. When pressed, all the water contained in the tank is drained.
- With dual flush - this type of speaker has a button divided into two parts. Pressing one flushes using only half of the water contained in the tank, while pressing the other causes a full flush.
Fittings for a dual-flush tank are considered more economical - you can choose the desired mode yourself. Columns with single and double flush are interchangeable, that is, nothing prevents you from buying and installing the one that suits you most, but it should be noted that the tanks have different capacities. For small volumes, a half flush may not be enough.
A hole of a larger diameter was made in the tank lid for the push-button fittings than for the rod fittings. Therefore, in most cases, replacing a column of one type with a column of another will not work.
So, taking into account all the above, we get six types of valves: with a stem with a side connection, with a stem with a bottom connection, with a single button with a side connection, with a single button with a bottom connection, with a double button with a side connection and with a double button with a bottom connection .
Separately, it is worth dwelling on the old-style fittings. Nowadays there are still many cisterns installed on a toilet with such fittings, or cisterns mounted on the wall and connected to the toilet by a pipe, in which old-style fittings are also mounted. It consists of a column with a rod (vertical or lateral) and a side fill valve. By virtue of design features and more relaxed requirements for efficiency, the drain column from such fittings cannot be replaced with a modern one. All that remains is to either repair and adjust the fittings for the tank so that it does not allow water to pass through, and this is very difficult to achieve, or simply buy a toilet with a modern tank, which is more preferable, especially if you have a water meter installed.
To summarize, we illustrate all types of fittings:
Fill valves. From left to right: bottom supply, side supply, old style
Drain columns. From left to right: push-button, with a rod, old style
How to choose fittings for a tank
Now let's move from theory to practice. When the question arises about purchasing new fittings for a flush cistern, a completely natural desire arises to save some money. It often leads to some typical errors:
- Despite the fact that fittings are universal, their designs from different manufacturers can differ greatly. Therefore, it is wrong to try to look for only one broken part. Chances are you won't succeed and you'll just be wasting your time. Conclusion - buy only the whole thing. As a last resort, bring the entire fitting element (column or valve) with you to the store. There is a small chance that such a spare part will be found, for example, from defective fittings.
- It is wrong to look for fittings specifically for your tank, that is, exactly as it was. This is where it is important to remember that they are universal, which means that knowing your type, with a high probability any universal the right type will suit you.
This raises the question, how to determine the type of your fittings?
To determine the type of fill valve, just look at your tank, namely, where the flexible water supply hose is connected to it. If it’s on the side, then you have a valve with a side inlet. If there is no hose on the side, then the valve has a bottom supply. Look under the tank and see for yourself.
To determine the type of drain column, pay attention to what action is performed when flushing. If you press a button, then it’s a push-button one, if you pull the rod, then it’s a column with a rod.
Determine the type of your fittings and choose the name that corresponds to yours (one of those listed above) - this is what you will need to tell the seller when purchasing.
Most likely, the store will offer you a choice of several options from different manufacturers and, accordingly, with at different prices. What to choose?
The price range is quite wide - from 150 rubles. up to several thousand. To choose a quality one without overpaying, you should pay attention to several nuances:
- All connections of parts to each other must be strong. Detachable ones, as a rule, snap into place, should fit tightly into each other with a characteristic click. One-piece ones should not have any backlash.
- The gaskets must be good quality. Feel them. Soft, plastic and at the same time elastic, speak about the quality of both the gaskets themselves and, accordingly, the fittings as a whole.
- Equipment - fittings of acceptable quality include all the parts necessary for installation, including bolts securing the tank to the toilet. In some cases, the fittings are equipped with spare parts (usually gaskets). Pay attention to the quality of small items. Unscrupulous manufacturers do not pay due attention to it. The result is low quality components. This should alert you.
Generally speaking, you need to know that the price of rod fittings of acceptable quality starts from 10 USD. e., for push-button ones - from 15 USD. e. At a price of 30 USD. That is, you can buy very good fittings with an increased service life (as a rule, this is reflected in an increased warranty period).
So, the fittings have been purchased, all that remains is to install them.
Replacement of fittings
Replacement of fittings begins with dismantling the old one. In some cases, there is no need to completely change the fittings. It is enough, for example, to change only the drain column or fill valve. If you change the column, you will have to completely remove the tank. Replacing the fill valve will not require this. In any case, you must first dismantle the old elements. Let's look at this process in in full gradually by specific example. Let's take this toilet as an experimental sample:
It can be seen that it has a one-button fitting with a bottom supply. The procedure for replacing any other one, including a rod one, for example, with a side supply, will differ little from that described. Differences in operations will be noted.
All work begins with shutting off the water at the inlet to the tank or the entire water supply branch. After this, you need to flush the water in the tank into the toilet.
1. Remove the button. In our case, it turns counterclockwise. It happens that the button is attached to the tank lid. The cover will then be removed without dismantling it. Then just move on to the second step. For rod fittings - unscrew the decorative knob on the rod and unscrew the cover that covers the hole in the tank through which the rod passes (of course, if it was screwed on).
2. Remove the cover and see this picture. In the center is a drain column. On the side there is a fill valve. If the length of the supply hose is sufficient to remove the tank and place it on top of the toilet, then move on to the next point. Otherwise, turn off the eyeliner.
3. The drain column is collapsible - consists of two parts. To make it easier to carry out work, we dismantle the upper part. To do this, turn it 90° (it will detach from the bottom part with a snap):
and take out:
The bottom of the column will remain inside. On the sides of it you can see the heads of the bolts securing the tank to the toilet.
4. Unscrew the fastening nuts under the tank. As a rule, this can be done simply by hand.
After draining there will be a small amount of water. When the nuts are unscrewed, this water will flow out. So put a rag on it.
5. Now nothing prevents you from lifting the tank up and placing it on the toilet for the convenience of subsequent work.
There is a sealing gasket left at the landing site:
6. In our case, dismantling the tank could be done without first disconnecting the liner. If it is necessary to change the filling valve, then we perform this operation now.
Flexible hoses can be twisted and unscrewed by hand. The key is used only when absolutely necessary.
7. Unscrew the column mounting nut:
and valve mounting nut:
8. Take everything out of the tank. Here, in fact, this is the dismantled fittings:
Now you can begin installing the new fittings. All operations are carried out in reverse order, the only caveat is that for convenience, it makes sense to put the gasket between the tank and the toilet on the fastening nut before installation.
The entire operation takes five to ten minutes. Threaded connections, as stated, are tightened by hand and only if necessary are tightened with a wrench.
You can endlessly try to repair old leaking fittings, being surprised every month by the huge bills for consumed water, or you can spend 10 minutes and radically solve the problem for a long time by simply replacing the fittings completely. Now you know how to do this.
Regardless of the model and brand of toilet cistern, the fundamental purpose of the cistern shut-off valve remains the same:
- open the water supply if it is empty;
- turn off the water when filling it.
The cistern fittings kit consists of the following elements:
- drain mechanism (it includes a siphon with a lid and a sealed gasket between drain pipe and tank);
- jet adjustment lever (connected to the water pipe via a ball valve);
- float (adjusts the filling level of the tank). Connected to the drain mechanism with a spoke.
The design of the tank draining and filling mechanisms depends on the type of installation.
Type 1- a cistern suspended high above the toilet. This type is familiar to almost every resident of our country. Not too pretentious in appearance, it nevertheless has undeniable advantages:
- simplicity of design (which makes it easy to repair it yourself);
- the high speed with which the flow of water rushes from a height into the toilet bowl.
Type 2– a flush cistern installed on the toilet shelf. In the majority modern apartments and public institutions this type of device is used.
Type 3– a tank built into the wall. It looks more like a thick-walled polyethylene canister.
All manipulations to replace the fittings of such a tank are carried out through the drain button hole.
In order to successfully install a toilet or bidet, you need to know what it should be like, this is necessary so that the pipes do not become clogged and wear out ahead of time. The most important and up-to-date information.
If the toilet “does not leak”, then the water consumption is minimal. However, in addition to paying for water, it is necessary to regularly check water meters. There is a lot here about the cost, conditions and frequency of this procedure. useful tips, how to save on checking meters!
Drain mechanism ^
It is hardly worth considering in our time the installation of drain fittings for suspended structures: They have long lost their relevance.
Therefore, in the future we will only talk about shut-off valves of the most common types - cisterns installed directly on toilets.
According to the method of activating the drain device, the mechanisms are divided into two groups:
- exhaust (rod). In order to activate the device of this group, you need to use the handle to lift the top of the rod that locks the drain hole.
IN modern models Such a mechanism practically never occurs in tanks. It is preserved only in fairly old models;
- push-button (push-button). The mechanisms of this group are divided, in turn, into two subgroups:
- Croydon valve. It consists of a body, a float lever axis, a piston and a seat. The float lever drives the piston.
The piston movement in Croydon valves is vertical. This design is installed in old-style tanks.
- Piston valve. In this design, the axis of the float lever is secured in a cotter pin, split in two.
By moving, the lever forces the piston to move in a horizontal direction. The piston, periodically in contact with the seat, regulates the flow of water into the tank.
A gasket is mounted at the end of the piston, which blocks the water flow when the piston presses on the seat. Tanks with piston valves are found in many Russian apartments.
- Diaphragm valve. In this type of design, a membrane (rubber or silicone) is installed instead of a piston gasket.
The plastic piston, moving under the action of the lever, also moves the membrane. It blocks the water inlet. The diaphragm valve is the latest advancement in the production of cisterns.
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Summer water outages are not a problem if you have a water heater. One of the most popular companies in Russia is the Termex company, read about its water heaters with a capacity of 80 liters or more, let your home always be comfortable.
Method of filling the tank ^
The tank can be filled in two ways:
- through a side water supply;
- through the lower water supply.
A tank with a side inlet fills with water noisily, while with a bottom supply, water fills the container almost silently.
But many manufacturers began to supplement the tank fittings with a side inlet with an outlet pipe. It is made of soft plastic and directs a stream of water to the lower zone of the container.
Thanks to this addition, The flush tanks with side inlet stopped making noise.
In what cases does the question of replacing fittings arise?
Drain cisterns supplied to retail chains are, as a rule, equipped with the necessary set of fittings.
And the majority of users are not interested in what mechanisms provide normal functioning devices.
But time passes, and the tank ceases to cope with its task. It is at this moment that the user has to get acquainted with his device and solve the problem of purchasing spare parts.
Moreover, the problem is not that they are difficult to buy, but how to buy a quality product.
Quality of cistern fittings plays a huge role in its normal functioning.
It is faulty mechanisms that cause various problems. For example, water begins to seep into the toilet bowl, causing the snow-white surface of the toilet bowl to become covered with red streaks.
Read more about the types, costs, sizes of toilets and bidets, what is typical, installation methods and selection tips only on our website.
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Or the flushing mechanism ceases to control the volume of water released. Such troubles can happen for various reasons, but the most common ones are the following:
- low quality of plastic elements of mechanisms leads to their curvature. The same effect can be produced by too sharp a change in water temperature, even if high-quality fittings are installed in the tank;
- many imported production mechanisms(they use diaphragm float valves) cannot withstand the quality of our water: hard, containing a large amount of impurities (for example, chlorine). For guard imported equipment sometimes has to be installed coarse and fine filters at the entrance of the water pipe to the apartment;
- when using low quality materials for the manufacture of fittings for flush tanks, it is subjected to premature aging and abrasion.
So, in what cases does it become necessary to replace fittings:
- continuous flow of water into the tank. Such an “accident” can happen due to a misalignment of the float lever.
But if after adjusting it nothing has changed, it means the float is damaged: it lets water in, becomes heavier and sinks to the bottom. In this case, you will have to purchase a new float.
It's very inexpensive - just about 4 rubles. But in practice, if the float malfunctions replace the entire float valve. This node costs on average 200 – 300 rubles.
- Continuous flow of water into the toilet. There is only one reason for this - the siphon membrane of the drain tank is damaged. In this case, there is only one way out: replacing the membrane.
The cost of this element depends on the method of its manufacture:
- stamped membranes cost 6 rubles;
- molded with vulcanization – 30 rubles.
Many users often wonder: is it worth replacing? individual elements tank fittings?
After all, if the mechanism begins to wear out, then one breakdown will be followed by others. It is safer to replace the entire set of fittings.
In addition, it is very difficult to find, say, a membrane or a float for an imported flush tank. A Replacing a part with a non-original one often does not lead to the expected result.
If you decide to replace a set of fittings in the drain tank. Issue price ^
The cost of a set of fittings for a Polish-made Cersanit tank with a bottom water supply is 650 rubles. The kit includes:
- exhaust valve;
- filling valve;
- ring sealing;
- plastic fitting BAS 24;
- metallized button and sleeve.
The fittings for the Vidima tank are 1250 rubles. But for products of this brand You can order the membrane separately. It will cost 300 rubles.
Hybner cistern drain with stop function 1800 rubles.
The tank drain valve made in Spain by Jika costs 2800 rubles. The product is available in two versions:
- button height is short;
- The button height has been increased.
The Jika flush valve can be used in the ROCA and JIKA collection cisterns:
- dama senso;
- victoria;
- vega, etc.
Armature domestic production costs much less. For example, fittings "Way of life"(produced in Pskov) will cost the buyer from 250 to 340 rubles.
Moreover, the manufacturer states that all plastic elements are made from virgin polypropylene, and shut-off valves are produced with the addition of natural rubber.
Interesting options are offered by the Ryazan company “Center for Heating Equipment and Plumbing.” They produce brand fittings "RBM" with three types of valves:
- direct action;
- membrane;
- back pressure.
They can be used in tanks with both side and bottom water supply. They have models with rod and push-button start mechanisms.
Universal design:
- with rod mechanism from 99 rubles;
- with back pressure diaphragm valve (push button) from 205 rubles.
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11 reviews per article“ What you need to know about the fittings for the toilet cistern: characteristics, companies, prices”
- Oksana
It’s even strange that now a cistern suspended high above the toilet is not in fashion, yet it seems that it really is the most efficient, after all, the speed of water flow is quite important factor. I even wanted to make one like this at home, I’ll have to find out if it’s possible to do this now, otherwise I was recently in a plumbing store, but I didn’t see anything like it.
- Anna
I really like the hidden toilet flush barrels that are built into the hay. There is only one button visible on the face. Unfortunately, such a system is very expensive, and not everyone can afford it. Lately I've been thinking about saving money. drain barrel toilet. Today this is a very pressing question for everyone. Are there systems that allow you to save water?
