The genus of carnation today includes more than 300 species, and some of them are quite suitable for indoor growing. Good decision for potting there are several compact ones hybrid species, and the total number of varieties today is several hundred. This one is modest and unpretentious flower has always attracted the attention of gardeners, it is no coincidence that Latin name Dianthus can be translated as "divine".
Cloves came to Europe from Northern China; they also grow in Japan and the Primorsky Territory. Since the plant is unpretentious, several types of cloves are widely used in European countries. Various varieties may differ greatly from each other, so you can choose a flower to suit your taste.
The following varieties have become the most popular for pot breeding:
- Chinese carnation. This is a very beautiful plant with a wonderful variety of petal colors. They can be red, pink, white, bicolor. The petals have a corrugated edge, which gives them a special charm. The stem is creeping, the plant is classified as an annual.
- . This species differs from others in that its buds are collected in thyroid inflorescences, the diameter of which can be up to 12 cm. The flowers also have a corrugated edge; they can be either double or simple. This species attracts flower growers with its variety of colors: the buds can be white, pink, lilac, and are often decorated with a border. One of the features of this species is its undemandingness to light.
- Hybrid carnation is one of the most beautiful and favorite species of gardeners. This annual plant no more than 20 cm high. During the entire flowering period, it is completely covered with bright large buds.
- Carnation grenadine is a variety of garden carnation, specially bred for growing in room conditions. It is distinguished by large terry buds with a corrugated edge of the petals.
All these types are very often combined into one - indoor carnation, since they have approximately the same growing requirements and take up little space.
All are characterized by a pleasant aroma and long flowering, but, unfortunately, all these plants are only annuals.
All types of indoor carnations can have several characteristic features: They are light-loving plants and require long daylight hours. At the same time, it is important to observe the correct temperature regime: carnations do not tolerate extreme heat, the ideal temperature for it is 13-15 degrees.
Lack of light or, on the contrary, too hot Sun rays lead to a slowdown in growth, and the plant will bloom much worse.
Other mandatory rules when growing cloves on a windowsill:
- The plant and the soil in the pot should never dry out completely. At the same time, moisture should not stagnate in the soil, so you need to take care of the drainage layer. For irrigation, it is better to choose soft, settled water; it should not be cold. Carnation really likes evening spraying, especially after a hot day.
- For cloves, it is recommended to select neutral soils. Ideal proportion: leaf soil, peat and turf soil in a ratio of 1:1:2. Cloves are afraid of microorganisms, so the soil must first be shed with antiseptic solutions.
- Feeding is necessary for lush flowering, therefore, complex compounds are bred for cloves mineral fertilizers and spray the soil. The amount of fertilizer should not be excessive; 1 spraying of the soil every 10 days is sufficient. Fertilizers begin to be added to the soil after the first month from the moment of transplantation.
To make the bush lush, young shoots need to be pinched, forming a crown.
The plant does not suffer from this procedure, as it quickly produces lateral shoots. In general, the rules. If you don’t forget to water it and provide it with enough light, there is no doubt that it will soon bloom and will delight the owner for a very long time with magnificent buds with a subtle pleasant aroma.
At home, the easiest way to propagate cloves is by seeds, and if you experiment with crossing several varieties, you can achieve interesting results. color combinations buds. Sowing is carried out in early spring, in March-April, and carnation seeds usually have very good germination. Seed material should not be stored for long: seeds obtained from last year's plant germinate best.
Growing tricks:
- The seeds do not need to be pre-soaked; it is enough to place them in a container with soil to a depth of 2-3 mm and moisten them generously with water.
- The containers need to be placed in a bright place; the first shoots may appear after a week.
- When the seedlings sprout and have at least 5 true leaves, you can begin to form the future bush. To do this, the top is pinched, the same will need to be done with the side shoots.
- Proper pinching will allow you to form a beautiful crown and achieve abundant flowering.
Carnations begin to bloom approximately 3-4 months after planting. This way, bushes planted in spring will delight you with flowering all summer long. Seeds can also be planted before winter, but in this case the carnation will bloom only in next year.
For two year olds and perennial species Other propagation methods are also used: this includes transplanting cuttings.
In any case, it is important not to bury an excessively young plant in the soil. Plantings need to be watered in a timely manner; sand is often added to the soil so that moisture does not stagnate and lead to rotting of the roots.
However, there are still a few common problems that you need to be aware of before planting. Although the plant is not too demanding on conditions, it is afraid of pests.
Carnation pests:
- The carnation is striking spider mite- in this case back side the leaves will be covered with a white coating, and the plant will bloom much worse.
- Aphids, powdery mildew and other common pests are also a threat.
Carnations need to be protected from threats: if any plant on the windowsill is damaged, it is better to immediately remove the pot with carnations to another place. If signs of disease appear, the leaves are washed with soapy water. In this case, you need to make sure that the soap does not get on the roots - this can only damage the plant. The foam is left on the leaves for several hours (but not overnight) and then washed off.
You can also use folk remedies: Spider mites can be successfully combated using an infusion of tansy and yarrow.
If these measures do not produce results, it is better to purchase special fungicides at a herbal pharmacy. One effective remedy is Actellik - this drug kills most pests, but is toxic, so it is used only in extreme cases. Other effective remedy– Fitoverm, it is safer, but you still need to carefully follow the instructions.
Carnations often get sick if poor-quality soil is used. Soil purchased in a store, and even more so collected in the garden, must be shed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate in order to kill microorganisms.
Since this plant has been grown indoors for a long time, you can use several tricks developed by gardeners:
- When growing two-year-old and perennial varieties the plant needs to be renewed from the petiole every time. Old carnations bloom much worse, and after replanting the petiole will again produce large buds.
- If the cuttings were planted at the end of summer, flowering can be achieved even in winter time. To do this, you need to organize a long daylight hours: when the sun sets, the plant is additionally illuminated with a special lamp.
- When the bud begins to fade, it is advisable to immediately remove it from the bush. the same should be done with the side flowers if there are too many of them. and the plant may not have enough strength for full flowering.
- In summer, it is advisable to ventilate the room with cloves more often. She needs fresh air and does not like too high temperatures.
At proper care indoor carnations can be turned into an excellent decoration.
There is a place for it on a balcony or loggia; it can be easily placed on a windowsill, since the bushes do not take up extra space. You can plant several plants with different colors buds into one container, organizing a mini-flower bed on the windowsill.
A modest and at the same time very beautiful flower will lift your spirits and will delight all family members for a very long time. Indoor carnations are the easiest way to diversify your home interior.
More information can be found in the video.
Carnation Shabo: wintering in the garden and cuttings
Carnation Shabo: wintering in the garden and cuttings
Carnations (Dianthus) are wonderful plants to decorate the garden. The advantage of various carnations is their abundant and long-lasting flowering, which is very bright and attractive. Besides, showy flowers Many carnations emit a pleasant aroma.
I love carnations very much, I buy seeds different types and varieties. And not a single carnation has ever disappointed me, and some literally stunned me with their charm!
Wintering carnations in the middle zone
Most gardeners prefer to plant cold-resistant perennial carnations, with no hassle in growing and wintering them.
Annual carnations that need to be sown at home (in winter or in early spring) for seedlings, are found much less frequently in flower beds. This is understandable: not every gardener will agree to long and difficult...
A pleasant surprise is this: carnation bushes of those species that middle lane Usually grown as an annual, in snowy and mild winters they can quite successfully overwinter in open ground. This has happened more than once in my garden, and the experience of other gardeners confirms the successful wintering of “annual” carnations.
Winters in the middle zone are very different. Including very severe ones (with frosts down to -35...-40 degrees) at small quantity snow - then many plants die in the garden, even those considered winter-hardy. Low-frost winters without frequent and long thaws, with thick snow cover, allow garden plants winter successfully.
For example, the last rather mild winter (2010-2011) spared many carnations, which are considered annuals. In my garden, bushes of Chinese carnation (D. chinensis) and its variety Heddewig (D. chinensis var. Heddewigii) overwintered well.
And also the hybrid carnation (D. hybridus) of two colors and carnation survived the winter garden forms Chabot (D. caryophyllus var schabaud) with flowers of various colors, with a red border.
I’ll tell gardenia.ru gardeners about my experience in organizing the wintering of Shabo carnations in the garden and about its vegetative propagation.
Storing cut shoots of Shabot cloves in the ground
Counting on a safe winter for my Shabot carnation in the garden, in the fall I cover it with plant debris. I rake the carnation bushes with the pear growing next to them closer to the base, and put the cut shoots on top.
This was the case last year as well. Before covering the part of the flower garden where the Shabot carnation grew for the winter, I was annoyed at the abnormally hot summer, which did not allow these plants to show themselves in all their glory in July-August. And in the fall, when the coolness set in, the carnation bushes began to grow sharply and formed many large buds, trying to make up for the time lost in the summer...
Having cut off the faded flower stalks with lateral vegetative shoots from the Shabot carnation bushes before the coming autumn cold, I felt sorry to throw them away. I tied the cut shoots into a bundle with synthetic thread and buried them in the ground, making a trench of a suitable size. She poured a small mound of earth on top, covering it with tops, and placed beacon pegs.
As a result, the layer of soil above the buried shoots of cloves turned out to be about 20 cm, and there were plant remains on top as well.
In the spring, when the snow melted in the garden and the soil dried out, I dug up carnation shoots.
Surprisingly, they overwintered well and turned out to be completely fresh and elastic - as if they had been buried not a few months ago, but quite recently...
Cutting and planting carnation cuttings
Rejoicing at the excellent preservation of the carnation shoots that had overwintered in the ground, I got to work.
First, I broke off all the lateral vegetative shoots from the flower stalks of the carnations. Having thrown out very small shoots, I selected those suitable for rooting (about 5 cm long and slightly larger), removing 1-2 rows of lower leaves from them.
I wish all plant lovers successful experiments!
Propagation of carnations by cuttings from a bouquet
Turkish cloves are grown as biennials. In the first year, a rosette of leaves is formed; in the second year, Turkish carnation blooms profusely for more than a month. Fragrant flowers of various colors are collected in shields.
Growing Turkish Carnation
These flowers can be grown through seedlings or direct sowing in the ground. To avoid plant diseases, it is advisable to spill the soil with a hot, dark pink solution of potassium permanganate before sowing. Seeds for seedlings are sown in March - early April, in open ground- in May or June according to the 5x5 cm pattern. Good results provides mulching of crops with a mixture of sand and wood ash in equal parts.
The seedlings sprout, and at the end of summer, young plants can be planted in prepared areas at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. Thus, in the first year a bush is formed, which next year reaches a height of 40-50 cm and from mid-June pleases with large inflorescences. In the first year, it is recommended to cover the resulting leaves with spruce branches for the winter.
Vegetative methods of propagation of Turkish cloves
There is also a vegetative method of propagation. If you like a particular variety, then at the end of July - beginning of August, the carnation can be propagated by layering. To do this, the shoots of the plant are bent to the ground, secured with pins and sprinkled with soil. The upper end of the stem is tied to a peg so that it is always in an upright position. After two to three weeks, roots form in the nodes, and after some time, leaves and shoots form. In autumn, rooted shoots are cut off from the mother plant and planted.
Turkish cloves can also be propagated by cuttings taken from stems that have not formed inflorescences. Good bushes 5-10 cm high grow from last year's self-sowing, which can be planted in the fall. These flowers grow well in both sun and partial shade. Almost any soil is suitable for them, but plants develop best on light loams with a slightly acidic and neutral soil reaction. Carnations are planted in separate groups, in the form of ridges, clumps next to plants that bloom later.
Turkish cloves, pest protection
The most common pests found on these flowers are aphids and spider mites. To combat these insects, a freshly prepared infusion of potato tops is effective (for 10 liters of water, take 1.2 kg of green or 0.6-0.8 kg of dry tops with leaves, infuse for 1.5 days, then add 1 tablespoon liquid soap). It is better to spray cloves in the morning or evening.
If your pets are bothered by mice, place poisoned baits in their passages near the plantings of perennials and biennials. And in winter, to combat rodents, be sure to trample and compact the snow near the trunks of trees and shrubs (especially during thaws).
Maria Dolzhenko, Vereya
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Shabot carnation cuttings, planting and care
All summer from the end of June until late autumn, until the low temperatures, the flowering of the Shabot carnation continues. Grown for floral decoration of flower beds, edgings, mixborders, landscaping balconies and loggias, as well as for potting, it gives a very good cut.
Caring for Shabot carnations is simple, and after cutting, the flowers remain in water for up to 1-2 weeks. You can propagate this valuable type of carnation using cuttings from last year’s bushes.
In autumn, the best Shabot carnation bushes are dug up with a clod of earth and transplanted into pots. Then flowering will continue until mid-November or longer. Keep them until spring in a cool place with good lighting. The shoots are shortened and “food and drink” are limited throughout the winter.
At the beginning of spring, they begin to feed and water, which stimulates the active regrowth of cuttings. In order to get flowering carnations in July, axillary shoots 5-7 cm long are cut already in February - early March. It is better to take new shoots from the middle part of last year's stem. Some gardeners consider it necessary to “grab” one last year’s leaf.
An oblique cut is made on the cutting at the internode and the cutting is deepened into wet sand. The percentage of rooted cuttings increases if you use a drug that stimulates root formation.
The top of the landing container is covered plastic bag or glass jar. During the first week, carnation cuttings are often sprayed and shaded. Roots are formed already on days 15-18.
According to the observations of amateur flower growers, the Shabot carnation grown from cuttings is not as strong as from seeds; the quality of the cut is quite normal. This method Cuttings are often practiced in order to preserve the variety you like, especially terry.
Planting shabot carnations in open ground.
In general, Shabot carnation is cold-resistant and not afraid of frost; seedlings are first planted in open ground - from the beginning of May (late April). If the weather does not allow, planting can be postponed to a later date - in the second half of May. Rooted cuttings are planted in May-June.
The landing site is chosen to be bright, protected from the north and northeast from the icy wind. The soil is fertile, neutral. The distance between young plants (cuttings) is 20 cm. If the shabot carnation is used for cutting, the distance between plants should be increased to 30-40 cm.
You can adhere to this scheme for planting seedlings: 25 x 25 cm or 30 x 20 cm - 14-16 plants per 1 square. m, when planting, without destroying the clod of earth with roots. You should not bury the plants, since even with a slight deepening the carnation takes root noticeably worse.
Strong gusts of wind easily break fragile stems, therefore, it is worth choosing a place for it more carefully. If necessary, carnation bushes are tied to pegs. During frosts and strong gusts of wind, it is advisable to cover the plantings with lutrasil.
What is the care for Shabot carnations?
Like many cultivated plants, plantings where colorful carnation flowers grow should be freed from weeds, watered, and also fertilized during growth and flowering.
They feed the cloves in the standard way... First, the emphasis is on nitrogen-containing fertilizers, and during the budding period and at the beginning of flowering, more potassium is required. If the Shabot carnation has a lighter color at the base of the leaves, then this is a signal that it is necessary to increase fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers.
For good flowering Shabot cloves are fed in small “portions”, but often, every 2 weeks. This plant is afraid of fresh organic matter.
Carnation Shabo - flowering and cutting.
If Shabot carnation flowers are grown for cutting, then all stepsons (up to the sixth node) and side buds must be removed. In this case, you can get quite large flower- up to 7 cm in diameter. The peduncle is cut in the morning or evening under the sixth node.
If Shabot carnations are grown for sale or for some official event, then the flowers are cut in the half-open bud phase. Cut flowers tolerate transportation well and are stored in water for 5-10 days.
Carnation Shabot tolerates light autumn frosts. However, after this, some of the leaves may turn white; this does not affect the development of plants. In some snowy mild winters Shabo carnation overwinters even in open ground. But this option in the middle zone can only be considered as a successful experiment.
How to root carnations from a bouquet
Carnations can be sown in open ground either in early spring or before winter. In winter, rooted cuttings are stored in the cool conditions of a greenhouse at a temperature of 0. And in the spring they are transplanted into the ground.
It is extremely convenient to plant cuttings in pots dug between bushes, while on light soil it is necessary to dig them in deep, and on heavy soil - slightly on one side, turning the surface of the earth towards the light. They can be made from ordinary wire. In a not very dense flowerbed, when there is no danger of destroying the adjacent plants, part of the bush is planted.
The location must be sunny, although varieties with drooping shoots need protection from the midday sun. Cover the top of the planting container with a plastic bag or glass jar. For this method of propagating carnations, it is important to use only a few shoots. At the same time, I planted each subsequent cut cutting next to the mother plant and did not even cover it with a bag, and they also took root perfectly.
How to plant cloves. Leaving the soil lump without moisture for several days, the leaves begin to lose turgor, and the flower shoots bend. And it doesn’t matter that plants in rotated pots will not grow vertically relative to the pot; all this can be easily adjusted when planted in the same place. In the same way, in pots, you can also root cuttings by placing containers or, even better, small bags of soil under the shoots.
At the same time, the soil is pressed tightly around them and watered. Cut the shoots deliberately for propagation at the end of May, when it is already possible to distinguish the flower tops. In a not very dense flowerbed, when there is no danger of destroying the adjacent plants, part of the bush is planted.
From time to time, some of the garden carnation bushes fall out, so it is better to renew them once a year. It is better to take the newest shoots from the middle part of last year's stem.
In autumn, select specimens that have not yet bloomed, transplant them into pots and bring them into the house. They will have to be looked after until they take root. But with watering, the turgor is restored and the shoots rise. If this is real then how to root it. And later, when planting in a permanent place, it will not be necessary to pay much attention to the plant - just transfer it and water it.
Indoor carnations are not phlegmatic about watering. If the weather does not permit, the landing can be postponed to the latest date - in the 2nd half of May. Do this in the spring, when you prune shoots on aged bushes in order to rejuvenate them at least for the current season. While replanting the bushes I decided to conduct an experiment. Traditionally, one or two fans, cm long, are cut off. During the first week, carnation cuttings are often sprayed and shaded.
Specifically, the deep planting makes the bush small-sized. Where this needs to be done is extremely clear. Another option is to separate young rosettes from an adult bush in July-August and root them. I had one flower in my bouquet, Carnation, but it’s so beautiful, so I wanted to root it. Rooting takes place in two to three weeks with high humidity and temperature +15 °C.
Over time, the cuttings take root and can be separated and transplanted to a new location. It is better to do this in rainy weather. If climatic conditions do not allow leaving the plant in the garden, you can simply store it in the house during the winter. It took me 9 months from the moment of cutting to the moment of flowering. I water with melted snow water in winter, and with rain water in spring, autumn and summer. Having thrown out extremely small shoots, I selected those suitable for rooting, about 5 cm long, and a little larger ones, removing the lower leaves from their row. Chinese carnations are traditionally pruned after the first flowering, and at the end of the season they bloom again.
At the same time, I did not use any additional rooting agents. In the end, I achieved what I wanted.
Roots form within a day. or When the heads fade. Naturally, if I had not grown the cuttings, but pinched them as they should above the third internode, my carnations would have bloomed much earlier. An oblique cut is made on the cutting at the internode and the cutting is deepened into wet sand. Established cuttings are planted in May-June. But I tried to carry out the transplantation process itself extremely carefully, without damaging the young roots. But I wanted to have a lot of cuttings and see if the time of cutting affects the process itself.
The water is kept at room temperature. But for a bush with an extremely shallow planting, I had to come up with various tricks so that its branches would not fall. CLOVE planting feeding care reproduction. Since I have both queen cells and cuttings in one pot for rooting, I did not feed them.
In the first case, irrigation moisture will collect in the hole and remain longer, and in the second, on the contrary, it will drain. By pressing the branch to the ground and inserting the bracket, the cutting holds quite firmly and does not fall under the weight of the flower head. Plant in partial shade; it is better to mulch the soil to conserve water.
In general, Shabot carnation is cold-resistant and is not afraid of frost; seedlings are first planted in open ground - from the beginning of May to the end of April. A sprinkled large bunch, as a rule, becomes moldy and dies. I would like to note that it is best to plant several bushes in one pot, then when they bloom they will create a beautiful bouquet, and one bush looks lonely. The soil is fertile, neutral.
Can you grow carnations in a pot at home?
At first, the plants may wilt a little, but with constant, abundant watering they simply recover. Its shoots do not fall, do not fall apart, and hold on without the help of others. For this I made small brackets. In the first case, irrigation moisture will collect in the hole and remain longer, and in the second, on the contrary, it will drain. According to the observations of amateur flower growers, the Shabot carnation grown from cuttings is not as powerful as from seeds; the cut quality is completely ordinary.
At the moment, when the carnation fades, I carefully trim the flower. I planted the plants in different pots in the same substrate as I carried out the cuttings. Amazingly, they overwintered unsurpassedly and turned out to be completely fresh and elastic - as if they had been buried not a few months ago, but quite recently... Cutting and planting carnation cuttings Having been pleased with the good preservation of the carnation shoots that had overwintered in the ground, I got down to business. The percentage of rooted cuttings increases if you use a product that stimulates root formation.
You can also root fans left over from pruning after flowering - some survive! Or, in the spring, after flowering, you can tear off greenish young shoots and plant them, stacking several of them together. If Shabot carnation flowers are grown for cutting, then all the stepsons up to the sixth node and the side buds must be removed. If this is not possible, move aside several lashes from each bush and sprinkle them with earth. Sowing cloves - Duration: Tatyana has 22 views.
I make the cut above the place where the shoot is growing again. This cutting method is often practiced in order to preserve the variety you like, especially terry. The distance between young plants cuttings is 20 cm. If the shabot carnation will be used for cutting, the distance between the plants should be increased to cm. I planted it in one pot at the same level at which the carnation grew, and deepened it in another. In the spring, when the sun on the southern window began to burn most intensely, I slightly moved the pots away so that direct sunlight did not reach the plant itself.
Leaving the soil lump without moisture for several days, the leaves begin to lose turgor, and the flower shoots bend. As a result, I became the owner of unique knowledge. How to root roses from a bouquet.
The landing site is chosen to be bright, protected from the north and northeast from the icy wind.
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How to grow carnations at home
Watering the plants should be careful, not abundant. For greater stability, they can be covered with soil. This is especially true when the seedlings are stretched. It is necessary to plant seedlings after 2-3 true leaves appear. In the future, you need to take care of hardening the seedlings. It is usually planted in open ground in late May - early June. The distance between plants is kept about 20 cm. This is what concerns planting cloves with seeds .
Now let's talk about the propagation of this flower. Cloves can be propagated by cuttings, layering, or vegetative methods. At the same time, the option of dividing the bush will not be suitable for all types of carnations. In cloves, the root system consists of a main root, from which many lateral roots grow. There are cases when side shoots take root. The result is a new plant. If we talk about hybrid and varietal varieties of carnations, then in this case resort to special propagation using cuttings. Since we are talking about cuttings, it would be worth talking about timing. The best period for cuttings is the end of May - beginning of June.
The process itself propagation of carnations by cuttings represents the following: you need to make a cut directly under the node. The cutting should be about 10 cm long and contain 3-4 nodes. The lower leaves are removed. Next, you need to make a cut to a third of the thickness of the stem. For this you can use sharp knife. The incision is made along the length of the lower internode. After the operations, the cuttings are placed in a prepared moistened substrate and then in a cool greenhouse. Root formation occurs within 2-3 weeks.
As for propagation by layering, this method is used for carnations that have long vegetative shoots. These carnations include bearded and Turkish. The method also involves cutting the shoot and securing it to the soil. After which it should be covered with sand and watered periodically. The main thing is to ensure that the cut section of the stem is constantly in wet ground. When roots are formed, shoots begin to grow from the node located above. After this, you can begin to separate the new plant and plant it.
At growing cloves at home care consists of using fertilizers throughout the summer, which are complex fertilizers. The frequency of feeding is once every 2-3 weeks. The only thing that should not be used is fresh manure. As mentioned above, carnations need good lighting. If the plant feels a lack of light, the foliage becomes small and flowering is sparse. There are varieties of garden carnations that are very sensitive to above-zero temperatures in winter. This especially applies to those plants that have reached the flowering stage. This is said to mean that since the fall garden carnation need to be covered with spruce branches. It should be removed only after regular frosts have passed.
Clove diseases
Simple ways to propagate roses from cuttings
Roses are a noble flower grown on the site.
Propagation of roses by cuttings - simple way“cloning” plants that satisfy gardeners either with decorative qualities, or resistance to weather tests of the local climate, or both of these parameters at once.
In order for the cuttings to take root and delight you with beautiful buds in the future, you need to know and follow a few simple recommendations regarding the choice planting material and ways to prepare it for planting in the ground and care.
Read here the features of planting clematis in the spring.
What roses can become donors for cuttings?
All. Even from a presented bouquet. Given that, that the flowers are domestic, not Dutch. fed with preservatives to the point of being “able to last in all its glory for a record number of days, but forever lost the ability to “reincarnate.”
Although, if the gardener has a very “light” hand, then why not try to grow a rose from a foreign guest, without particularly hoping for a positive result of the undertaking?
How suitable is a single stem for cuttings? Break off one of the spikes located on it.
Did the thorn come off easily? This means that the rose can be cut into cuttings.
A stem that has not yet become woody has a better chance of taking root. When making preliminary markings on a branch, try to ensure that the cuttings have areas with greenish, juicy bark, and not cracked light brown.
Some flower growers claim that the survival rate of cuttings taken in June is higher than those cut and planted in the ground later.
If the climate of your region is characterized by moderate temperatures throughout the warm season and regular rainfall, then yes, it is better to carry out the procedure in early summer.
Other fans of experimenting with propagating flowers by cuttings should “look” at the wind rose and seasonal temperature characteristics of a particular climate zone.
Owners of greenhouses or large window sills engage in cuttings of roses at any time of the year.
You need to take into account the climate when deciding whether to leave rooted “seedlings” on the ground in winter, or move them under the roof and transplant them into flowerpots. In severe frosts, below 20 degrees, even half-year-old sheltered “seedlings” may not survive the cold.
How to cut a rose stem from the ground?
Using donors from the ground, select stems with buds that have not yet been fully formed. Having carefully examined the “patient”, immediately, if present, discard the area with the skin resembling the surface of a tree.
The long stem is divided into several pieces up to 7-8 cm long, making sure that the segment contains at least two or three buds and a pair of leaves.
If the donor branch is short, then only one seedling is formed from it.
Separating the body of the cutting from the stem, the first cut is made strictly perpendicular to the stem, the second - the bottom of the “baby” - at an angle of 45 degrees, using a sharpened knife as much as possible.
The lower cut is made immediately under the bud, which serves as an accumulator of nutrients that will help the cutting quickly acquire roots.
When to cut roses from a bouquet?
Especially desperate flower growers, who do not have the strength to raise their hand to the gifted beauty right away, cut bouquets after the petals begin to fall.
Until this moment, the flowers are immersed every day overnight in a container with clean water, making sure that the lower edges of the buds do not come into contact with the liquid.
However, if you really want to get into your collection the same rose as in the bouquet, then it’s better not to risk it and disassemble a couple of copies from it right away.
What to do with rose cuttings after cutting?
The chopped stems are cleared of all the buds, and at the same time almost all the leaves, leaving only a couple of branches to allow photosynthesis to take place.
To prevent them from intensively releasing moisture, they are “milled” by cutting off half of each leaf.
The prepared cuttings are placed for a day in an aqueous solution of some fertilizer that stimulates root formation (for example, heteroauxin, root). The next day, the “seedlings” are placed for rooting in:
How to properly root rose cuttings into the ground?
Having chosen a secluded place where on a summer afternoon the flowers will not feel like they are in a frying pan, they dig several ridge trenches 15 cm deep.
They are filled three-quarters full with a nutrient mixture of turf, leaf soil and sand - one part at a time.
Chernozem, humus or aged bottom peat - two parts. The top backfill, two centimeters thick, should be made of sand, previously sifted and washed.
A removable wooden or metal carcass– for stretching the film, which will provide the “seedlings” with greenhouse conditions.
If there are few cuttings, they will be planted separately, then the role of a greenhouse for each can be performed by the cut plastic bottle or glass jar.
The cuttings are planted in prepared beds with a slope to one side so that the lower edge of the stem does not come into contact with the nutrient component of the trench.
The roots develop better in a sandy environment that allows moisture to pass through well. This will prevent putrefactive processes from developing around the emerging root system.
After planting in the ground, the cuttings are isolated from the world by film stretched over the frame. To ensure that the temperature inside the greenhouse remains at a given level - within 25 degrees, the structure is shaded when it is too hot outside. Three times a day, lightly spray the ridge with clean water, lifting the cover.
This allows you to maintain a humidity favorable for the “seedlings”. If there is excessive moisture, ventilate the greenhouse by briefly lifting one of the edges of the film.
After three weeks, the cuttings begin to sprout roots. The buds of the “seedlings” also begin to activate, which is determined by the growth of the shoots.
After this, the humidity inside the greenhouses should be gradually reduced through longer ventilation periods in the morning.
Active growth of shoots and the first leaves will indicate that the plants no longer need greenhouse conditions. However, it is still necessary to shade the roses from the burning midday sun.
How to root cuttings into potato tubers?
Potato queens provide rose “seedlings” not only with moisture, but also with starch, which is very useful for cuttings that do not yet have their own root system or sufficient leaf cover involved in photosynthesis processes.
Cuttings are prepared according to the usual scheme. Sorted potatoes, free of rotting spots and other sores, cleared of dirt and eyes, are pierced with a cutting, deepening the lower edge of the “seedling” by two centimeters.
Having “planted” all the available “seedlings” into the mats, the latter are placed in trench-ridges filled with clean sand. The top barrels of the tubers should stick out a little from the ground.
The ridge is covered entirely with a frame with film, or each of the “seedlings” is covered with a plastic/glass jar.
Watering is carried out as the soil dries out. Once a week, irrigation water is enriched with sugar by adding a couple of teaspoons of granulated sugar to a glass of liquid.
For 14 days, the “seedlings” are regularly ventilated. After another 14 days, the shelter is removed - subject to favorable weather conditions.
How to root cuttings into flowerpots?
Rose cuttings are planted in flowerpots using the same method as in the ground.
The only difference is that the bottom layer of soil in the pot should consist of pebbles and expanded clay for drainage.
They pour it on top fertile soil from cultivated garden soil. Last layer– sandy.
Placing the cuttings in a flowerpot is carried out according to the same scheme as in the bed soil.
How is the root system of rose “seedlings” grown in water?
The cuttings, cleared of leaves, are placed in a jar of clean water and the container is placed in a warm room with diffused light.
The liquid is changed every two days, simultaneously inspecting the cuttings for the appearance of mold (cuttings that have begun to deteriorate should be disposed of immediately).
After 21-23 days, a whitish cloud - callus - begins to form around the lower edge of the stems. You should not clear the “seedlings” of it, as this is a harbinger of the development of the root system.
The real roots that have appeared will tell you that it is time to plant future roses in the ground, where they should first be placed under film or jars.
Carnation bearded ( Dianthus barbatus) - herbaceous plant family Carnation.
Stems: non-flowering, creeping along the ground.
Peduncles: straight, strong, knotty, 20-60 cm high.
Leaves: sessile, lanceolate, located opposite. Depending on the variety, they can be light green, dark green or reddish.
Flower color: white, cream, pink, red, burgundy, variegated, often with an eye and a border. Velvety flowers, emitting a light aroma, consist of 5 petals, the size of an individual flower is 1.5-2.5 cm. Simple or double flowers collected in apical dense thyroid inflorescences with a diameter of 8-12 cm.
Bloom: begins in late May-early June and lasts 1-1.5 months.
Fetus: cylindrical box. Seeds remain viable for 3-5 years.
Where is the best place to plant barbatus?
Barbatus prefers light, non-acidic soils rich in nutrients. It is cold and frost resistant.
Requires good drainage and does not tolerate stagnant water.
Unlike other types of carnations, it is undemanding to light and can bloom in partial shade, but in shade the flowering is less abundant.
The plant is perennial; in cultivation it is bred as a biennial - in the first year it forms a rosette of leaves, in the second - flowers.
Methods for propagating Turkish cloves
Turkish cloves are propagated by seeds, green cuttings, layering, and dividing the bush.
Seed method
Seeds are sown at the end of May, seedlings appear in two weeks. At the beginning of August, the developed rosettes are transplanted to permanent place at a distance of 20-30 cm.
You can sow the seeds immediately in a permanent place in July, thin out the seedlings, and cover the young plants with spruce branches for the winter.
Our advice:
When propagated by seed in double varieties, some plants turn out to be non-double, and low-growing varieties produce some tall plants.
Propagation by green cuttings
Therefore, it is better to propagate especially valuable varieties of Turkish cloves using green cuttings.
They are cut in June, rooted in the garden bed, sprayed periodically.
The cuttings take root after 3 weeks and can be transplanted to a permanent location in the fall.
How to propagate by layering?
It is even easier to propagate barbatus by layering. At the end of July and beginning of August, the creeping stems are sprinkled with earth (shallow cuts can be made on the stem for better rooting).
The top of the stem is tied to a peg to keep it vertical. After 5 weeks, the rooted cuttings are cut off from the mother plant and planted in place.
Our advice:
In order for this carnation to develop as a perennial, you need to sprinkle all young shoots with long bare stems with nutritious soil.
With this method of propagation, carnations can live and bloom well in one place for up to 10 years.
Easy to care for
In order for the carnation to bloom profusely and for a long time, the soil is fertilized with rotted manure or compost. Fresh manure can be applied in the fall.
Turkish cloves are responsive to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.
Lack of nitrogen causes yellowing of leaves and stunted growth. With potassium deficiency, the stems become weak and flexible, and the leaves die. With a lack of phosphorus, seed ripening slows down.
Decorative use
Barbatus is planted in garden beds, in flower beds, and used as a border plant. This carnation looks good in separate bright groups on the lawn and in containers.
Low-growing varieties add charm to rocky gardens.
Variety of varieties and types
At the bearded carnation ( Dianthus barbatus) there are many varieties of different colors and heights. The most famous:
- Schneeball - bushes up to 40 cm tall, double flowers, white, with a jagged edge, inflorescences up to 11 cm in diameter;
- Diadem - bushes up to 45 cm tall, dark crimson flowers with a large white eye, inflorescences up to 10 cm in diameter;
- Heimatland - 45-50 cm high, shoots and leaves are dark green with a red tint, flowers up to 2 cm in diameter, dark red with a pronounced eye, inflorescences up to 12 cm in diameter;
- Kupferrot - 45-50 cm high, copper-red flowers with a jagged edge, inflorescences 9-10 cm in diameter.
Old varieties are also popular:
- Mazurka - with white single flowers with a pinkish ring;
- Fiery heart - with bright red flowers;
- Midget - dwarf variety with dark red flowers;
- Ember - with black-raspberry-violet flowers with white stamens.
Among the new products of foreign selection, it is worth noting the English variety mixtures Wee Willy, Rondo, Roundabout, they are distinguished by their dwarf growth (15-20 cm).
Tall, up to 60 cm, the Holland variety is notable for its two-color flowers with rings or colored edges. Dutch breeders also bred Turkish cloves Noverna series, which blooms in the first year, can be grown as an annual plant.
Tina Simkovich
© Ogorodnik magazine
Photo: depositphotos.com
Last fall, while visiting a friend, I acquired a poor cutting of a potted carnation. 
Taking the cutting, I noticed that the carnation itself is very beautiful, but the bush is not compact, spreading and seemingly disheveled. Even then I realized that most likely the planting was not done correctly, but a friend began to assure me that she had had a carnation for several years and always looked like that, supposedly it was ampelous, which really surprised me.
I made several from one cutting. 
Having torn off lower leaves planted cuttings in soil mixture. I made a combined soil. I placed about 1-2 cm of drainage at the bottom of the pot. My drainage is made from fine gravel and coarse sand. Next, I poured a soil mixture prepared from sifted turf soil, humus and peat taken in equal proportions. The literature, as a rule, recommends pouring a layer of sand for cuttings, but I don’t see the point in this. When there is soil on top, I can visually determine the moisture content of the soil under the cuttings, but when there is sand, it is not clear to me how wet the soil is. Therefore, when rooting anything, I never pour sand.
To propagate carnations, it is recommended to take the lower axillary shoots for cuttings, but since I found something that just happened to me, I had no choice, so I made cuttings from this.
Given the fact that best time for cuttings from February to April and from September to October, and it was already November for me, I slightly doubted the need for such cuttings, but I so wanted to have such a carnation that I took a risk.
I tore off the lower leaves of the cuttings, but did not remove the top. I first placed the cuttings in water because the leaves and stem seemed slightly wilted to me. When the cuttings had completely gained turgor, after about 20-30 minutes I started planting. On each cutting I found 3-4 internodes. When planting, I buried 2 internodes, and left 2 on top.
Of course, I don’t have a steam generating unit. Therefore, having planted the cuttings in a pot, I put it in a bag and tied the bag on top. A primitive mini greenhouse was formed. Since by that time the cold weather had already begun, and warm room I happened to have a room with north windows, so I installed my greenhouse on the north window.
During the rooting period, which lasted about a month, I literally opened the package once and watered the soil. Irrigation was carried out with warm, stagnant rainwater, so much so that the water collected in the pan. I did not remove the water from the pan, so it remained in the greenhouse, creating additional humidity.
When the tops of the cuttings began to grow, according to all the rules of agricultural technology, they had to be pinched. I didn't do this. The point of this was that I needed cuttings. 
Therefore, I grew the plant until it was possible to pinch it and plant the pinch itself as a cutting. This is what I did with all the cuttings.
After cutting off the tops, the cutting began to send out side shoots, which I was also in no hurry to pinch, but waited for the moment when the pinching went to the cutting.
Considering that it was winter, and the north window was not illuminated at all, I had to move my “plantings” to a colder but brighter room, and here I noticed that 16-18ᵒC is quite enough for cuttings, but with increasing light intensity the cuttings began to look healthier.
I would like to note the fact that I carried out cuttings all winter and early spring, and every single cutting I had was alive. At the same time, I did not use any additional rooters.
In the spring, when the sun on the south window became more intense, I moved the pots slightly away so that direct sunlight did not reach the plant itself.
I planted the plants in different pots in the same substrate as I carried out the cuttings. At the same time, I planted each subsequent cut cutting next to the mother plant and did not even cover it with a bag, and they also took root perfectly. But I tried to carry out the transplantation process very carefully, without damaging the young roots.
While replanting the bushes I decided to conduct an experiment. I planted it in one pot at the same level at which the carnation grew, and deepened it in the other. As a result, I became the owner of unique knowledge. The cloves need to be deepened. It is the deep planting that makes the bush compact. Its shoots do not fall, do not fall apart and stand on their own.
But for a bush with a very shallow planting, I had to come up with various tricks so that its branches do not fall. 
For this I made small brackets. They can be made from ordinary wire.
By pressing the branch to the ground and inserting the bracket, the cutting holds firmly enough and does not fall under the weight of the flower head.
It took me 9 months from the moment of cutting to the moment of flowering. Of course, if I had not grown cuttings, but pinched them as they should above the third internode, my carnations would have bloomed much earlier. But I wanted to have a lot of cuttings and see if the time of cutting affects the process itself. In the end, I achieved what I wanted.
Now that the carnation is fading, I carefully trim the flower. 
Where this needs to be done is very clear. I make the cut above the place where the shoot is growing again.
I would like to note that it is best to plant several bushes in one pot, then when they bloom they will create beautiful bouquet, and one bush looks lonely.
Indoor carnations are not indifferent to watering. Leaving the earthen lump without moisture for several days, the leaves begin to lose turgor, and the flower shoots bend. But with watering, the turgor is restored and the shoots rise. I water with melted snow water in winter, and with rain water in spring, autumn and summer. The water is kept at room conditions.
Since I have both queen cells and cuttings in one pot for rooting, I did not feed them. Judging by the state of my bushes, they don’t need them yet. 
The photo shows everything that I was able to draw and grow over the winter. Now I will enjoy the beauty and incomparable aroma.
