Stop for longitudinal sawing.
Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.
In general, any circular table is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast material may crack.
There is another popular way to attach a circular table to a table without drilling holes in the base - attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only this method did not seem to me to be correct enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of installation, and I did not use it.
Another important parameter manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.
The disc sawed through to the top side of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular saw itself. It’s convenient that the disc can be completely hidden in the table.
UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circular saws, it may turn out that the disk is at an imperceptible angle. And all the cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disk is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the original platform. If the disk is not at a right angle and it is not possible to set the ideal angle of the platform, you can place several strips of tin on one side under the platform, achieving perfect angle(you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)
Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now be turned on by the start button.
This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).
Of course, it is possible to saw without equipment, using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.
This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligning itself with them, can move along saw blade. By pressing the sled against the rail, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 degrees. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.
You can even cut the strip like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.
Sleds solve only part of the problem. For longitudinal sawing you also need a side stop.
I glued together brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.
It grabs the edges with a death grip.
A circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made it from waste furniture board a simple pusher.
I have already managed to work with this table, sawing slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to do all this work than I did when sawing off with a hand-held circular saw.
In the future I will further improve this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing so that, when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will install a removable riving knife to which the disk protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I saw, the blade throws wood dust right in my face)
- I’ll finish the improved pusher. I have already started making a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.
I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.
The rip fence is an important tool when working with a circular saw. This device is used to make cuts parallel to the plane of the cutting saw blade and the edge of the material being processed. Usually, the manufacturer supplies one of the options for this device with a circular saw. However, the manufacturer’s option is not always convenient to use and in most cases does not satisfy the consumer’s needs. Therefore, in practice, you have to make one of the versions of this device with your own hands according to simple drawings.
There are several options for a constructive solution to this seemingly simple problem. All options have their advantages and disadvantages. Selecting a suitable design should be based on the needs that arise during processing various materials on a circular saw. Therefore, choosing the right solution must be taken seriously, responsibly and creatively.
This article discusses two of the simplest design solutions for creating an angular rip fence for circular saw with my own hands according to available drawings.
Peculiarities
What these design solutions have in common is a rack that moves relative to the cutting blade along the plane of the saw table. When creating this rail, it is proposed to use a standard extruded profile of a rectangular unequal flange angular section of aluminum or magnesium alloys. When assembling a parallel miter gauge with your own hands, other profiles of a similar cross-section can be used in accordance with the length and width of the working plane of the table, as well as the type of circular saw.
The proposed drawing options use a corner with the following dimensions (mm):
- wide – 70x6;
- narrow – 41x10.
First execution
A rail is taken from the above-mentioned corner with a length of 450 mm. For correct marking This workpiece is placed on the working table of the circular saw so that the wide bar is parallel to the cutting blade of the saw. The narrow bar should be on the desktop on the side opposite the disk, as shown in the figure. IN narrow shelf(41 mm wide) of the corner at a distance of 20 mm from the end, the centers of three through holes with a diameter of 8 mm, the distances between them should be the same. From the line of location of the marked centers, at a distance of 268 mm, the line of location of the centers of three more through holes with a diameter of 8 mm (with the same distance between them) is marked. This completes the marking.
After this, you can proceed directly to assembly.
- Drill 6 marked holes with a diameter of 8 mm using a needle file or sandpaper burrs that are inevitably created during drilling are processed.
- Two 8x18 mm pins are pressed into the outer holes of each triple.
- The resulting structure is placed on the work table in such a way that the pins fit into the grooves provided by the design of the circular saw table, on both sides of the saw blade perpendicular to its plane, the narrow angle bar is located on the plane of the work table. The entire device moves freely on the table surface parallel to the plane of the saw blade; the pins act as guides, preventing the stop from skewing and the violation of the parallelism of the planes of the circular disk and the vertical surface of the stop.
- From the bottom of the work table, M8 bolts are inserted into the grooves and middle holes between the stop pins so that their threaded part fits into the slot of the table and the holes of the rack, and the heads of the bolts rest against the lower surface of the table and are between the pins.
- On each side, over the rail, which is a parallel stop, an M8 wing nut or regular M8 nut is screwed onto an M8 bolt. In this way, rigid fastening of the entire structure to the desktop is achieved.
Operating procedure:
- both wing nuts are released;
- the rack moves to the required distance from the disk;
- fix the rail with nuts.
The rack moves parallel to the working disk, since the pins, acting as guides, prevent distortions of the rip fence relative to the saw blade.
This design can only be used if there are grooves (slots) on the work table of the circular saw on both sides of the disk perpendicular to its plane.
Second design solution
Suggested below constructive solution This DIY rip fence for a circular saw fits any workbench, with or without slots. The dimensions proposed in the drawings refer to a specific type of circular saw; they can be proportionally changed depending on the parameters of the table and the brand of the circular saw.
A 700 mm long strip is prepared from the corner indicated at the beginning of the article. At both ends of the angle, at the ends, two holes are drilled for M5 threads. A thread is cut in each hole with a special tool (tap).
In accordance with the drawing below, two guides are made of metal. To do this, take a steel equal angle corner measuring 20x20 mm. They are turned and cut according to the dimensions of the drawing. On the larger strip of each guide, two holes with a diameter of 5 mm are marked and drilled: in the upper part of the guides and one more in the middle of the bottom for an M5 thread. The threads are cut into the threaded holes using a tap.
The guides are ready, and they are attached to both ends with M5x25 bolts with a cylindrical hex head or standard M5x25 bolts with a hex head. M5x25 screws with any head are screwed into the threaded holes of the guides.
When working with a hand-held circular saw, the issue of straightness of the cut arises. There are two concepts for ensuring a straight line:
Pin on sawing machine(workbench) actual circulars.
In this design, the hand tool is permanently attached to the table, and the workpiece moves along a guide. The cutting quality is excellent, but there are serious limitations on the size of the material being processed.
The workpiece is fixed permanently, and a guide ruler is installed for the hand-held circular saw.
In this design, the size of the workpiece to be cut can be any; the main thing is to ensure strong fastening of the device for the circular saw. Manufacturers hand tools take care of the users and offer various ready-made devices for sale.
Industrially manufactured guides are convenient and safe. As a rule, they are equipped with an accurate marking ruler; some allow you to set the cutting angle. The material is selected in such a way as to eliminate wedging and play during tool movement.
The pair, consisting of a groove and a runner, is protected from the penetration of sawing products and does not require lubrication.
However, all these kits have a high cost, and many home craftsmen make a rail for.
Let's consider options independently invented and created by home-grown “Kulibins”.
IMPORTANT! Manual Circular Saw is a source of increased injury, therefore, during manufacturing homemade devices Based on this, safety precautions should be followed.
The simplest option is a cutting stop
The device is actively used when cutting with a jigsaw.
It works quite effectively, but is limited in its suitability for a hand-held circular saw. The tire is pressed against the workpiece using a clamp. The bracket protrudes above work surface both below and above.
As a result, we get restrictions on the length of the cut. The circular motor rests against the clamp, and you have to make the cut in two steps. In this case, the quality of the edge deteriorates and a step may form.
It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is precisely longitudinal sawing blanks How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.
Introduction
The machine consists of three main structural elements:
- base;
- sawing table;
- parallel stop.
The base and the sawing table itself are not very complicated structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.
So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.
In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.
Exist various designs parallel stops depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.
| Rip fence design | Advantages and disadvantages |
| Two-point mounting (front and rear) | Advantages:· Quite rigid design · Allows you to place the stop anywhere circular table(to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· To fasten it, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and secure the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and with frequent readjustment it is a significant drawback. |
| Single point mounting (front) | Advantages:· Less rigid design than when attaching the stop at two points, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure. |
| Fastening in the groove of a circular table | Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· Complexity of the design, · Weakening of the circular table structure, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-made, especially made of wood (made only of metal). |
In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.
Preparing for work
Before you begin, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.
The following tools will be used for work:
- Circular saw or you can use.
- Screwdriver.
- Grinder (Angle grinder).
- Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.
During the work you will also need the following materials:
- Plywood.
- Solid pine.
- Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Wood glue.
Design of a circular saw stop
The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is complex design, which includes a set of parts.
The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.
From a different angle.
The general composition of all parts is as follows:
- The base of the transverse part;
- Longitudinal part
- , 2 pcs.);
- The base of the longitudinal part;
- Clamp
- Eccentric handle
Making a circular saw
Preparation of blanks
A couple of points to note:
- planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.
We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.
It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.
The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage from (or alternatively, you can make it “on a quick fix» false table), which you don’t really mind deforming or ruining. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.
As a result, we get a smooth cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.
We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.
Transverse part of the guide
Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:
- The base of the transverse part;
- Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
- Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
- End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.
Upper transverse clamping bar
Both clamping bars– the upper and lower ones have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.
The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.
Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.
With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.
Assembling the entire transverse part
Longitudinal part of the guide
The entire longitudinal part consists of:
- , 2 pcs.);
- The base of the longitudinal part.
This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.
At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.
The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.
The base of the longitudinal part
We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.
Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.
Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.
Installation of the eccentric
Installing the guide
It's time to secure our entire structure to circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.
... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.
Video
Video on which this material was made.
The circular fence and rip fence are perhaps the most important devices on the circular table. Therefore, I decided to take this project seriously. I don't spend a lot of time sanding and shaping without the need for fillets on jigs, I figure cut, glue, screw and it's done. In my opinion, extra beauty is not always appropriate, but strength is always needed. When working with complex projects, I break them down into smaller components and work on them individually. Having at my disposal a thin aluminum parallel stop (photo on the right), I had a number of inconveniences. The trouble is that for each new cut it is necessary to change the size of the stop installation; to do this, by moving the stop, we take into account the dimensions at the point where the cut begins to cut the workpiece and at the point where the cut exits in relation to the saw blade, then we fix it with two handles. It's inconvenient and takes a lot of time.
Circular and rip fence step by step manufacturing:
Step 1: Making the stop.
Cut three strips from laminated chipboard 1.1 m long and 8 cm wide, and then assemble them together making a U-shaped profile. By internal dimensions profile, make five blank inserts for rigidity and insert them inside the profile, they will create square section, necessary for the stop. The advantage of this stop is that it can be used on both sides of the saw blade (photo on the left).
Step 2: Making a guide channel for the stop.
The channel guide for the stop is made of two slats, has the shape of a U-shaped profile and is bolted to the end of the circular table, perpendicular to the saw blade.
Step 3: Assembling the Stop - Part 1
So, the circular saw and the rip fence now have a guide channel. Putting everything together, using a small piece of MDF in the shape of an inverted "T", this will be screwed to the back of the stop and inserted into the guide channel. The width of the channel directly depends on the thickness of the T-shaped MDF blank, which will ensure tight placement of the T-shaped piece in the channel.
Step 4: Assembling the Stop - Part 2
Align the fence positions using a metal straight edge to ensure the fence is parallel to the saw blade. Connect the stop and the T-shaped mounting piece firmly together. Working hard, I realized that hardwood is better than MDF; replacing the T-piece from MDF took almost one day. Any discrepancy in the finished settings will lead to changes in the general settings, be prepared for this.
Step 5: Stop locking mechanism.
The stop fixation uses slots for original stop. The locking mechanism is simple: a threaded bolt and nut, a hole in bottom band rip fence, wooden washer. By tightening the bolt, the block pulls the stop down towards the tabletop and clamps it very tightly.
