Known since the times of the Egyptian pharaohs, the plum fruit tree today is still loved by gardeners for its excellent tasty fruits and amazing decorativeness, which can not only decorate the garden space, but also qualitatively improve it, giving a special flavor and elegant sophistication.
This heat-loving crop, long grown in the southern regions of Russia, is currently successfully developing the temperate and northern regions of the country. This became possible thanks to the efforts of domestic and foreign breeders. New winter-hardy varieties, which can withstand the harsh climate of temperate latitudes, are in great demand on the market. Plum, planting and caring for it, as well as cultivation features are the topic of this article.
Description and specific characteristics
Today, more than 300 varieties are cultivated, and this variety includes not only the usual plants with drupe fruits in yellow, burgundy and purple shades. The plum genera includes many species, and all of them are spreading trees or shrubs that are highly decorative. In spring they surprise with simultaneous and early flowering, when the branches are completely covered with snow-white or slightly pinkish flowers, later with a blizzard of small petals, and at the end of summer they droop under the weight of the ripening harvest. And the fruits - juicy drupes of various colors and shapes - do not leave anyone indifferent. These are the main characteristics of the plum fruit crop. Planting and care (photos of the main operations are presented in the article), their stages will be discussed further.
Common varieties
The most popular varieties of plums in the Russian garden are:
Renclod is a group that unites varieties of domestic plums, bred from green Renclod and having distinctive features in the name. There is Renklod collective farm, Tambov, Altana, Bave, etc. All of them are characterized by large juicy sweet fruits with juicy and dense pulp and an easily separated stone. These varieties are difficult to transport and are not stored for long. Being a unique basis for the selection of many species, Renklod green is valuable because when propagated by seed it retains all the features inherent in the mother culture.
Egg plum with a pronounced egg-shaped fruit is an excellent variety suitable for culinary processing and fresh consumption.
Varieties are distinguished by the color of ripened fruits: Egg plum yellow, red or blue. The yellow plum is particularly decorative. Planting and caring for it is not burdensome; fulfilling the basic requirements of the crop will not keep you waiting long for the harvest.
Hungarian with red-bur or blue-violet oval-shaped fruits, which are characterized by a dense bluish coating and excellent sugary pulp. The high sugar content makes it possible to obtain good quality prunes from Hungarian plums. The variety is perfectly stored and transported. Varieties: Hungarian domestic, purple, Italian, Azhan, early Bulskaya, Wangenheim, etc.
Mirabelle is a very sweet plum with a well-separable pit. Its small fruits, pointed at both ends, resemble cherry plums. The most famous varieties: Mirabelle Nancia, September, small.
Plum fruits are decorative and brightly colored. Gardeners are usually impressed sunny color fruits produced by the yellow plum. Planting and caring for it is no different from trees with burgundy and blue fruits.
Frost-resistant varieties
Damson plum is one of the hardiest crops of the plum genus, capable of bearing fruit well in the most difficult conditions. It is a shrub or tree with small dark bluish-blue fruits of a specific tart and moderately sweet taste, excellent for harvesting and canning.
Canadian plum ( the best varieties- Terry, De Soto, Tecumsech) is characterized by high frost resistance (up to -45-50˚С). Blooming later than all other varieties, this crop safely avoids the consequences of spring frosts. But all representatives of the Canadian plum are self-sterile, therefore, when planting them on the site, you need to take care of several varieties with identical flowering periods. Cross pollination will ensure fruit set and good yield.
Choosing a variety
The basic rule when choosing plums is that the variety must be adapted to local weather conditions. Their diversity today makes it possible to most accurately select a zoned variety of crop, the seedling of which will take root well and quickly develop into strong tree, which yields crops in summer and does not freeze in winter period. Let's move on to the features of growing a crop such as plum. Planting and subsequent care are very important, and it is correct actions during the rooting period of the seedling, they are necessary in order for the tree to grow stronger faster. To get a good harvest, experienced gardeners recommend planting several different varieties to allow cross-pollination.
In this case, it is necessary to take into account the varieties of pollinators. Ideally, fruiting of plums planted on the site will occur in different terms. Since plum is a spreading tree, the minimum distance between plants in plantings should not be less than 3 m.
Requirements for the site for planting
The place for the culture is chosen on the south or south-west side of the site. This is an immutable rule for all representatives of the plum genus. The heat-loving nature of these crops is very high, so it develops better on gentle slopes facing southern directions in warm soil with good aeration. You can plant the plum along the fence on the sunny side or use it as a hedge. If the site is located in a lowland, then it is recommended to plant on raised mounds up to half a meter with a base diameter of up to two meters. Very sensitive to soil characteristics, draining, planting and caring for which are simple but necessary, prefers chernozem or gray forest soils with a light loam structure, breathable and quite moisture-absorbing.
Soil preparation
Prepare the soil for planting in advance: a plot of 1.5-2 m2 is dug up on the bayonet of a shovel, while simultaneously introducing high-quality organic matter and mineral fertilizers. Since it is better to plant plums in early autumn, ideal option There will be spring digging followed by keeping the area under clean fallow until planting. If you plan to plant the crop in the spring, then the area should be processed two weeks before this moment. In temperate climates, plums are planted exclusively in the spring, and the soil is prepared in the fall.
Planting holes are dug based on the size of the root system: the roots should be comfortably located, without bending upward or being constrained by the walls of the hole. The usual parameters are: width - 0.7 m, depth - 0.5 m.
Planting work
One-year-old seedlings are considered the best. Experienced gardeners claim that this type of plum takes root faster and is less susceptible to diseases. Planting and care in the fall is carried out as follows: immediately before planting, a bucket of humus and half a glass of wood ash are placed in the hole. The lack of organic matter can be compensated by adding mineral fertilizers- 200 g of superphosphate and 100 g of potassium, which are mixed with the fertile layer of soil. The seedling is positioned so that the root collar remains 3-5 cm above the soil layer. The soil is poured evenly, periodically shaking the plant so that the soil lies more densely and envelops the roots, without leaving air pockets that can provoke the occurrence of rot. Then the soil around the seedling is compacted, watered and mulched. After 10-12 days, with established dry weather, they are watered again, giving each young tree 20-30 liters. Watering is important for a crop such as plum.
Planting and care in spring differ from autumn operations. A spring seedling begins to actively develop and requires care, while a plant planted in the fall has time to take root and go into a dormant state.
Plum: planting and care. Pruning and its features
For the first few years, young trees form a neat bush-like crown on a low trunk of 4-6 skeletal branches. Subsequently, they are thinned out and truncated. Upon reaching 6-8 years of age, the central conductor is usually shortened, stopping upward growth and transferring it to a side branch.
Siberian plum varieties, the hardiest, age faster than their southern counterparts and sharply lose productivity. Therefore, after 7-8 years of active fruiting, rejuvenating pruning is done, removing shoots that have grown over the past three years. Carry out this work in early spring before the start of sap flow.
What you need to know about anti-aging pruning
This type of pruning has different effects on different varieties of crops such as plums. Planting and caring for the plant are almost the same for all varieties, and pruning should be approached with caution. If for Ussuri plum varieties it does not cause a noticeable reduction in yield due to enlargement of the fruits, then for Karzinsky plum varieties this is a radical operation that can lead to the loss of a significant part of the harvest. To avoid this and rejuvenate the tree in time, do this: in the first year, weakened and diseased branches are cut off, and the rest are shortened by next year. This procedure can last 2-3 years, and after several years it is repeated.
Feeding
Since plum is a fruit-bearing crop, it must receive high-quality nutrition to restore strength. A lack of nitrogen and potassium has a serious impact on the health of the tree: a brown edge appears along the edges of the leaves and a weakly expressed mosaic appears, and yields drop sharply.
A lack of lime leads to cracking of the fruit, and its excess leads to chlorosis. In other words, feeding is necessary. They begin from the 3rd year of the plant’s life. In the spring, 7-8 kg of humus or compost and 100 grams are distributed in the trunk circle of each tree. ash. During the growing season, the crop is supported with complex mineral fertilizers applied in two stages: before flowering and after it.
In the fall, after harvesting, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are needed, which are most conveniently added during digging or embedded in the top layer of soil (120 g/1 m2). Lime is added once every 2-3 years (50 g/1 m2). This is the nutritional pattern of a crop like plum. Planting and care, propagation and watering - all operations are simple, but important for her. But it is important to remember about preventive treatments of trees.
Plum: planting and care. Diseases
Unfortunately, plums are not spared from various misfortunes: diseases and pests. The most common of them are considered different types aphids (brown, gray or green), plum moth. Slimy sawfly also often uninvited guest settles on the plant.
Plum trees are also susceptible to diseases such as hole spot and fire blight. Control or prevention measures are publicly available and are carried out using biological or chemical fungicides. Spraying of trees is carried out in the spring before buds open and before winter.
These are the main aspects of growing a crop such as plum. Planting and care, pests, diseases and the fight against them naturally require a certain amount of effort and time, but this fruit tree is a grateful plant that will respond to care bountiful harvest excellent healthy fruits.
Growing a plum tree requires knowledge and attention at all stages. Each is important for the result - obtaining tasty fruits that are pleasing to the gardener’s eye.
The survival rate, growth of the seedling and the yield of an adult tree depend on how skillfully the plum tree is planted.
Therefore, it is necessary to adhere to a number of rules.
Landing rules
Represents the genus of stone fruits. This family loves warmth, like all the plum’s closest relatives:
- Apricot;
- Cherry plum;
- Cherries;
- Peach;
- Cherry.
Based on this list of representatives of the plum family, it is clear that the plants are southern. Mild southern winters make it possible to plant plums not only in the spring.
Autumn planting is also successful; the tree withstands the cold and wakes up safely in the spring.
Planting seedlings in different seasons has differences and features.
You also need to know how to grow plums in different regions.
Autumn and spring planting of plums: choosing the timing
Plum trees tolerate planting differently; when to plant it, the gardener decides after carefully weighing the pros and cons.
The timing depends greatly on the growing region.
Pros and cons of autumn planting
Autumn is fertile for planting in the south, especially its second half. The seedlings go into a dormant period and “fall asleep” for the winter.
Advantages of autumn planting of planting material:
- Minimal trauma: the buds are at rest, the movement of moisture and nutrient media in the roots is suspended. A young tree is less sensitive to manipulation.
- Planted before winter, a month to a month and a half before severe cold, the tree has time to settle in the ground. At the required depth, the soil tightly fits the skeletal roots and lateral roots. Autumn rain moisture and almost no evaporation eliminate the presence of voids around the roots.
- Southern winter often feels like an extension of autumn. The seedlings manage to overwinter without any problems; they wake up in the spring like “natives”, without feeling any changes.
- By the time of hot weather, which is usual for the southern spring, the seedling will adapt and will not perceive temperature changes as stress.
For climatic zones located to the north autumn planting possible, but difficult and risky:
- Frail seedlings may freeze and even die.
- The superficial location of the feeding roots will require insulation - mulching, covering the tree trunk circles. We'll have to cover them with snow. The trunks must be whitened to prevent cracking of the thin surface layer of the trunk in the cold. Otherwise, the temperature difference - the heating of the seedling by the sun during the day, alternating with frosty nights - “beats” the bark - it bursts.
- Option: tying the stems with thick paper, this increases labor costs. If the garden is not at home, at the dacha, you have to continue the season of work on it in winter.
- Spring floods can destroy even a successfully overwintered plum tree. Flooding disrupts air exchange in the waking plant. The roots are rotting.
Therefore, it is advisable to plant plums here - in the spring.
Spring planting of plum
“Prepare your sleigh in the summer...” - the proverb is universal and true for preparing the “place of residence” of garden trees. It is better to select and prepare a site in any planting season - in the fall.
Provide the tree with:
- Protection from winds - plant under cover tall trees, pergolas, walls;
- Sunny place;
- Convenient location for watering. If the climate is dry, plum planting is carried out taking into account the possibility of irrigation, closer to the water source;
- Prepare food in advance. In the fall, when digging the area, add humus. It’s better to dig the planting hole before winter and fill it then.
The planting hole is dug taking into account the structure of the root system of the seedlings and soil fertility.
Good, nutritious soil will allow you to plant plums in a shallow – 60 cm – hole with a diameter of up to 80 cm.
If the soil is poor, the hole will be deeper and wider. Sufficient size: meter per meter.
Make sure the walls are vertical, otherwise there may be uneven settlement of the ground and skewing of the trunk.
There is no need to bury the tree a meter; half the depth will be occupied by soil mixed with humus.
The plum root system contains many lateral roots. They are located shallow and provide nutrition to the tree. Distributed within the crown projection.
This area is fertilized with organic matter (compost, humus, manured soil). This food will be enough for the first years.
Skeletal roots go deep, they support the tree and can supply moisture.
But the plant is nourished by the superficial root system. In its zone, the soil is loosened, fertilized, and mulched on top to retain moisture.
The depth of the skeletal roots is close to the height of the tree itself.
Planting a plum and following technology will determine the health and development of the tree to a large extent.
In the spring, the seedling is inspected and the upper third is removed with pruning shears. This stimulates the growth of lateral branches well.
The kidneys should be swollen and alive. But not yet blooming. This makes it easier for the plant to take root: it will awaken in new conditions.
Varietal seedlings are obtained by grafting varietal material onto a more hardy root - the rootstock.
The grafting site is easy to notice: it is thickened. Below the graft is the transition of the root to the trunk - the root collar.
Its location during landing is not arbitrary. The neck should be above the surface of the ground; deepening can destroy the tree.
The bark of the neck, located in the ground, gradually rots and collapses, and the tree withers.
Landing algorithm
In both spring and autumn, plum seedlings are planted according to the same algorithm:
- A tall stake is driven deep into the center of the hole to support the seedling. Check the strength of the fastening: the stake should not swing.
- Pour into a prepared hole filled with fertilized soil. fertile soil. The slide is made higher than the edges of the pit - then it will settle. If you pour it lower, a depression will form after planting and watering. This would be a mistake: stagnation of irrigation and rainwater near the stem will lead to its rotting.
- Visually evaluate the planting material. Damaged roots, if present, are pruned to healthy areas. This improves survival rate.
- A seedling is placed on a hill; the roots should be freely located on the soil and not pressed against the edges of the hole. There should be no voids left between the central lower part of the root adjacent to the trunk and the ground.
- It is more convenient to plant together: one person holds the plant by the stem, and the other person pours soil on top of the roots. This way it is possible to give the plum trunk a vertical position and carefully fill the space between the roots with soil.
- After sprinkling the roots with a small layer of soil, shake the seedling slightly. This way the earth is distributed more densely between the roots.
- Pour a layer of soil above ground level; after watering, the sediment will level the surface.
- Watering is carried out carefully so as not to expose the roots. It is better to water around the perimeter of the hole, the water will be absorbed evenly.
- It is good to mulch the tree trunk area with last year's leaves, straw, and improvised material. This will retain moisture, reducing evaporation, and protect the roots from possible frost.
If it was not possible to dig and fill a planting hole in the fall, prepare it in the spring two weeks before the planned planting.
Planting scheme
When planting several trees or starting a garden, the planting scheme is chosen according to the characteristics of the variety.
Tall plums are placed four meters in a row. You can reduce the distance to three, focusing on the size of the area and the number of trees.
Between rows of tall plums, the standard distance is 5 meters. Possible - 4 meters, depending on the conditions.
Modern varieties of short plums are placed more compactly: a meter closer than tall ones, both in a row of trees and in the aisles.
Seedling care
The adaptation period of the tree will require special attention. You need to observe and note:
- Are the buds starting to grow in time? This is monitored regardless of the planting season.
- Is the tree trunk circle dry?
- The appearance of pests - young trees are the first to suffer from them.
Otherwise, growing plums does not require any special care at first.
If the planting pit is properly filled with organic matter, four feedings are not needed a year.
You will need watering, pruning, and loosening the soil. Possibly mulching.
Watering and fertilizing
Everyone knows that the main thing in care is watering, and it is also necessary for plums.
High-quality humidification up to 40 cm depth will be optimal.
In the first half of summer, 5 buckets per tree will become the norm; the amount of water is increased during the fruiting period of the plum, but not excessively, otherwise there is a risk of fungal infection.
Mineral fertilizers will come in handy in the third or fourth year from the moment of planting, so potassium and phosphorus are added to the soil during autumn digging.
Use in spring and after flowering nitrogen fertilizers, and by mid-June an infusion of cow manure is added (in the trunk circles - for young trees, for adults - throughout the planting area).
Nitrogen, potassium, and magnesium help ensure good fruiting and stable growth, so they should be used for both root and foliar feeding.
For example, nitrogen in the form of nitrate or urea can be sprayed onto leaves if they turn pale.
For brown and curling leaves, granulated potassium and magnesium can be added to the soil.
Crown formation
Pruning plum trees is not difficult. The conductor - the central trunk - is always in the lead; it is left above other branches.
It is better to remove competing branches or greatly shorten them. Remove the completely cut branch “to zero”, without a stump.
Stone fruits are prone to fungal diseases. Fungal spores enter through wounds on tree stumps.
Side branches are shortened at the end of the first or beginning of the second season. Plum is prone to rapid growth, trimming the end parts will force it to branch.
Without pruning, most plums “drive” vertical branches to greater heights.
After a couple of years, without care (pruning), no ladder will help you reach fruits that have ripened at many meters in height.
By cutting out unnecessary branches that thicken the crown, free the tree from inconvenient ones.
Inconvenient:
- Growing vertically (tops) - they are barren or sterile;
- Extending at an excessively acute angle from the central trunk;
- Growing horizontally or at a large (more than 50°) angle;
- Crowns directed inward;
- Growing towards the paths, they will interfere with walking through the garden.
It is advisable to direct the skeletal branches along the rows; this will make caring for the plum easier.
Every year, during the growing season, “hold back” the vigorous growth in height.
Avoid severe pruning: the longer the cut fragment of the branch, the stronger the branching on the remaining part.
More thinning work means more injuries to the tree and loss of time for the gardener.
Overgrowth
Stone fruit crops, having taken root, quickly develop new territory. The lateral roots actively expel the shoots.
If this is not contained, a few years will turn the garden into impenetrable plum thickets.
Gardeners are struggling with this undesirable phenomenon. If the variety is self-rooted (without grafting), the plum can be safely propagated by the vegetative method.
The shoots are dug up, the roots are cut, and planting is carried out. Valuable varieties are being sold.
Varieties obtained in nurseries through grafting cannot be propagated this way. Everything that comes from the root is not a varietal.
Therefore, it is cut down or dug up.
To make labor-intensive work easier, the shoots are not allowed to grow. Along the perimeter of the trunk circle in the projection of the crown, root-impermeable material is dug in:
- Plastic;
- Metal;
- Slate;
- Rubber.
They select what is available and use their imagination. The roots lie shallow and can block the road.
Take the trouble once and you will avoid the need to dig up the growth every year throughout the entire area.
Bury the material by thirty centimeters: the roots are superficial. Leave a small edge at the top.
Weeding
Weeding is minimal. The first year is manual. Using tools can accidentally damage the delicate roots.
In subsequent periods, weed the surface layer, preferably with a flat cutter. At the same time, the soil is loosened and moisture is “closed.”
The term means destruction of the crust, a network of cracks on it. This prevents moisture from actively evaporating and keeps it at the roots.
You can even walk between the rows with a walk-behind tractor (cultivator). Plum will tolerate this kind of care without problems.
Harvesting
Plum is a juicy fruit. It should be picked slightly unripe. Otherwise, it will wrinkle and the skin will burst.
Low trees are much easier to maintain. Special devices no need: buckets, baskets, fruit boxes, and gardener's hands.
Add a ladder to this set if the varieties are tall.
The fruits should be picked carefully, trying not to damage the skin or even the protective whitish coating on it.
Then the plum will last longer. You will have time to process it or transport it without loss.
Plum propagation methods
First of all, let us immediately say that the propagation of this tree, regardless of the variety, occurs vegetatively, that is, through cuttings, root shoots and plum seedlings.
Seeds can only be used to obtain a rootstock - a tree, onto which grafting is then carried out.
How and why to grow a rootstock?
If you need a rootstock, start preparing the seeds:
- you need to select the best fruits, remove the pulp, rinse under running water and soak for 4 days, changing the water and mixing the “seeds”;
- thoroughly dry future seeds;
- store them in a glass container until planting time;
- for a sufficient period of time before planting (it will be 180 days), stratify the seeds - keep them in a moist environment, this can be sand or wood shavings in temperature conditions from -10 to +1 0 C;
- plant in the ground either in the fall or with the onset of stable spring weather (this is usually done at the end of April);
- maintain when landing correct distances– between seedlings they should be 10 cm, between rows – 70 cm, with a planting depth of 70 cm.
In order for the grafting to be successful, it would be better for you to take winter-hardy varieties of sloe or plum as a rootstock.
The rootstock must grow for 1 year; after this period, grafting can be done.
Graft
Grafting is performed during the period when the movement of juice is actively occurring, this is:
- Spring: mid-April - mid-May;
- Summer: mid-July - mid-August.
Spring is more suitable for grafting cuttings, and buds are grafted in summer.
Root growth
We have already talked about copulation reproduction. It is suitable only as a clonal, vegetative plant.
Horizontal roots with many small lateral roots (or even without them) take root almost one hundred percent.
Verified good variety can be propagated quickly and successfully. Make money by selling or providing your favorite plums to all your relatives, neighbors, and acquaintances.
The method is economical, inexpensive, and fast. Well suited for yellow plums: they do not disappoint in taste, size and beauty of the fruit. Transportable if harvested on time.
Late pink plums produce less shoots, but they also reproduce successfully.
For the upcoming transportation of seedlings for sale and possible storage of them until sale, dip the roots, protecting them from evaporation and drying out, in a clay mash.
But even “bare” roots, free from soil, wrapped in damp cloth will remain viable.
You can transport seedlings to any region suitable for their climate.
There are known cases of successful rooting and growing of the southern yellow plum in the Moscow region.
Experiment, go for it. Fortune favors the brave.
If the variety is grafted, the shoots will not convey the characteristics of the variety, and the gardener will be disappointed with the result.
Root cuttings
You can also take root cuttings for propagation.
The cutting is obtained as follows: the root is dug up at a distance of a meter from the trunk of a young plum, or one and a half meters from the trunk of an adult; The root thickness should be approximately 1.5 cm and the length should be 15.
It is cut off and stored in a trench covered with peat and river sand mixed in equal proportions.
Its depth should be at least 0.5 m, but you can also use a basement, where you will have to create suitable conditions for the cuttings using moss and wet sawdust.
These measures will be useful if the cutting is cut off in the fall, and if in the spring, then you can place it in the ground, under a film, adding peat to the soil in a ratio of 1:3.
The cutting should be placed vertically or obliquely.
Plum cuttings will require careful care - when planting, it is important to maintain intervals of 5 cm between units, and keep the rows 10 cm apart from each other.
The depth of the soil covering will be 5 cm, but it is better to deepen the upper ends a couple of centimeters and mulch them, that is, sprinkle them (peat or sawdust will do).
You need to keep them in the shade and not let them dry out until shoots appear.
If there are several shoots on one cutting, then the strongest one should be left.
Organic fertilizers (slurry, for example) will be useful if fertilized several times a season.
The time to replant the cutting that has sprung will come next winter, and it can go to the garden when it reaches a height of 1.5 m.
But not all gardeners can and like to grow their seedlings and, therefore, sometimes it’s easier to visit a nursery and choose the right variety. Get what you want, brush up on your knowledge.
And then planting a plum and cultivating it will not require excessive labor. And the result will be expected and will definitely please you.
Blooms but doesn't bear fruit
And sometimes it happens like this: plum trees bloom profusely, then ovaries appear, which fall off en masse without bearing fruit. For this reason, gardeners even uproot healthy trees. What to do in this case?
Let's consider all the reasons for the failure of the plum harvest: from the choice of variety to agricultural technology and climatic conditions.
- Most varieties require pollination, as they are self-sterile. Each variety has its own “fellow traveler”: they must grow close to each other. The symbiosis of two varieties - “Annushka” and “Skoroplodnaya” - will give high yield. When a “pair” is not identified by breeders, you will have to plant a “clump” of several varieties fruit trees. You can cooperate with neighboring trees by planting your plums near the fence. Cross-pollination by insects decreases in cold or rainy weather - you won't get a harvest.
- A phenomenon known to biologists as physiological carrion: the tree does not have enough nutrition for all the fruits that have set. Common cause defects of the root system are considered. Alas, this cannot be corrected, but due to correct formation crowns amateur gardeners still increase the yield.
- Bacterial trees can often be observed in plums - this is the result of gardeners’ careless attitude towards them. Carrion from under the crown and fallen leaves must not only be removed, but also taken outside the garden. The crown of trees must be regularly treated from gray rot and pathogenic fungi. One percent Bordeaux mixture, applied three times, with an interval of two weeks, successfully copes with infectious diseases stone fruits
- -insects can significantly reduce the yield. The most common are plum sawfly, codling moth and centipede caterpillar. Use agricultural techniques (loosening, hilling), install catching belts. This way you will protect your garden without chemicals.
- Weather and climatic conditions determine the future harvest. On young shoots after winter you can see traces of frost damage. Clean these places and treat them garden varnish. But amateurs are unable to combat pollen sterilization. It is caused by strong cold winds during flowering. In northern latitudes, the tree lacks warmth; in the south, seedlings are threatened by drought; the middle zone is recognized as the best for plum growth.
- Failure to comply with the conditions and landing site. Seedlings love neutral soils, sunny, unshaded big trees areas of the garden where there are no “alien” roots.
Now that you know the reasons for plum harvest failure, you can weigh your options and desires to select several plum trees for a new garden, knowing their features.
To conclude this article, I would like to offer you videos about planting plums and pruning them to watch.
See you soon, dear readers!
It's no secret that plums began to be grown on their plots even before the beginning of our era. It is difficult to find a person who does not like these tasty and attractive berries. Plums can be used anywhere, they make simply excellent compotes, preserves, jams and sauces, and they can also be dried. And those who have own plot, and who grow plums on it, because growing a plum will not take a lot of effort. But nowadays there are a lot of varieties and you can choose any of them. Exactly the one that is suitable for your region. And if you decide to plant on your summer cottage plum, then you should take a closer look at our publication, which will allow you to do the correct process of planting plums.
Variety of plum types
Plum is a popular berry in our country. And therefore, they were developed specifically for central Russia delicious varieties, which are worth mentioning in our publication.
So, thanks to the efforts of breeders, new varieties appear almost every year. Of course, we won’t be able to talk about everyone, because the list is quite large. Currently, approximately 300 of the most popular varieties of plums are planted on their plots. The planting process for regions such as the Urals, Siberia, and central Russia is the same. But the main difference is the choice of the most suitable variety for a particular region. Plum varieties can be grouped according to similar indicators:
Egg plum. Appearance fully corresponds to its name. The berries are quite large, oval in shape, and the indentation characteristic of plums is almost invisible. Varieties of this species are classified according to color: blue, yellow, red. Perfect for twisting and eating fresh.
Hungarian. Did you know that Hungarian has united a large group of plums. But they are similar to each other in the dark color of the fruit, their flesh is dense and has a noticeable seam. The tree itself grows large, and the crown is semi-spreading. The very first variety of Hungarian is considered to be Italian. The fruits are dark in color and have egg-shaped. The pulp itself is yellow-green in color and not very aromatic. This variety tolerates transportation well, which is why it is known almost all over the world. Also very popular are varieties such as Hungarian vulgaris, Azhanskaya, Moscow and Zimnitsa.
Greengage. This variety is considered a subspecies of domestic plum. The trees reach a height of almost seven meters and have a non-standard crown shape. The plum itself is approximately five centimeters in diameter, and the fruits of the tree are round or ovoid. Varieties differ from each other color scheme. There are greenish, red-yellow, or a little blue. The plum pulp is juicy and soft. But you won’t be able to transport and store these plums, and if you still need to transport them somewhere, then pick them a little unripe. Some of the popular varieties are the Karbysheva, Altana, and collective farm varieties.
Varieties Mirabelle. The berries of this variety are not large in size, the color is closer to golden and have a spherical shape. This variety comes from Asia Minor, but currently it is also found in Europe, and more of it in France. This type feels just as good in middle lane Russia. The most famous varieties are Bolshaya, Malaya, Bona, Nancy, September.
Damsons. This small sizes bush or tree. Ternosliv is a subspecies of domestic plum. He is resistant to change weather conditions and to unfavorable environment. Very easy to care for.
Canadian plum. Truly an amazing variety. This variety can withstand frosts up to 50 degrees. And thanks to this, this variety also grows in Siberia. But, as always, there is one drawback - these are cross-pollinated trees, which means that several trees need to be planted. From one tree you can harvest up to 70 kilograms of plums. Famous varieties: De Soto, Terry, Tecumsech, Nansa.
Choosing the right landing site
In order for the plum to bear fruit well every year, special planting and high-quality care will be required. First of all, you need to find a comfortable place for the plum to grow further. Gentle slopes on the south, southwest and west sides are ideal for planting plums. Experts advise planting plum seedlings in very warm places, and where the soil breathes well. If you want to plant a tree in a lowland or near a fence, then you still need to make at least some kind of elevation. The dimensions of the hill are up to 50 centimeters high and up to two meters wide. Plum loves gray forest, loamy and black soil. The presence of moisture and air is required. When planting several trees, you should pay attention to the subtleties of each variety. Approximately they need to be planted according to this example: four trees by two meters.
When to plant plums in spring or autumn
If you cannot decide on planting a plum, if you do not know whether to choose autumn or spring for this case, then when answering these questions you will not hear a definite answer. Some amateur gardeners claim that they need to plant in the spring, while others say that any time of the year is suitable. You can buy seedlings in the fall (again, depending on the region of the country), but it is preferable to plant them in the spring. Just in time for spring, the seedlings will have time to grow stronger and form a root system (this applies to the Moscow region and southern regions of Russia). The most favorable month for planting plums is April. But again, keep an eye on the soil to ensure it warms up and thaws after winter. In Siberia this is the third ten days of April.
Preparing the landing hole
Plum is unpretentious plant. But here it is important to know how to plant and how to care for it in order to pick delicious fruits from the branches of this tree. Preparation process landing pit You can start in the fall or spring a few weeks before planting. Dimensions of the planting hole: depth 60 centimeters and circumference 60-70 centimeters. Mix the soil from the pit with humus in a 2:1 ratio. It is also possible to add mineral fertilizers. If you plant plums in the spring, you need to dig, only shallowly, after the soil has dried out. During the growth period of the seedling, it is worth tying it up for about a year and a half. This is done to strengthen the root system.
Main nuances
Regardless of whether you plant plums in spring or autumn, you need to do this wisely and correctly. We plant the seedling so that its root collar is six centimeters above the soil surface. Over time, the earth will settle and it will be in its place. If you do not follow this rule, the bark may rot, which in turn will negatively affect the fruiting and growth of the plum. And one more thing, don’t overdo it with fertilizers. Follow this rule: better less than more. Do not fertilize with manure, only compost and humus. If you overdo it, then in the worst case the plant will get a root burn.
Watering process
Whether you plant in spring or fall, be sure to water well. You will need two buckets per seedling. After which you mulch the soil. Plum loves water very much, so when there is little rain, water it more often. The very first watering is carried out in mid-May, then when flowering has passed, the third watering is in July, when the fruits begin to fill, and the fourth falls on autumn period, for the month of October. The number of buckets of water depends on the age of the plum (minimum three, maximum eight). And be sure to loosen the soil after watering.
Fertilizer process
During the life of the plum, it should be fertilized. The very first fertilization process is carried out in the third year from the moment of planting. Humus and compost are suitable as fertilizers, wood ash at the rate of 200 grams per 1 sq.m. When the active growing season begins, mineral complex fertilizers are added. Due to this, the growth of new shoots and leaves accelerates at the beginning of spring. And if you apply fertilizer at the beginning of summer, it has a beneficial effect on the development of fruits. Nitrogen quality fertilizers are applied liquid formulations. Phosphorus or potassium are added directly to the soil in the fall. Lime is quite useful - fluff lime (at the rate of 1 sq.m. per 50-100 grams).
The process of pruning home plum
We talked above about how plum trees should be planted and cared for. But it is worth saying that pruning is also required here. Indeed, a plum requires not only watering and fertilizing, it must be periodically pruned, thereby forming a beautiful crown. It is preferable to carry out this process in the spring before sap flow begins. And the air temperature should be at the same level, without any sharp fluctuations. In the case of spruce, you do the process of pruning the plum in the summer, then choose the first half so that the wounds on the plum heal before the onset of winter. But you shouldn’t prune in the fall, because cold weather is just around the corner. So that you can succeed beautiful tree it is worth shaping it when you planted the seedlings, because young trees grow very quickly. Older trees are pruned to rejuvenate the tree, and unnecessary dried branches are removed. If the plum is a fast-growing variety, then it is better to cut the branches by 1/3. We recommend that, before starting the process of pruning plums, you read the relevant literature and consult with experts in this field.
Root removal process
This procedure also needs to be carried out during the growth process of the plum. Feel free to cut and remove unwanted shoots coming from the measles system. They simply prevent the tree from developing further. If you notice growth from the roots, this is already a small signal that there are problems. You can destroy it and chemical method. But we recommend a simple method - the pruning method. Don't cut them at soil level; this will allow them to grow even more. Find the root system of these shoots and cut them there. And simply fill the resulting holes with earth.
Plum cultivation - fruitsIt's hard to imagine Orchard without plum. It is a heat-loving tree and does not grow well in wetlands. Also, the plum should grow at sunny place in order for the fruits to be sweet, so the planting site must be chosen carefully. With proper care, it begins to bear fruit after 4-5 years.
Plum, planting and caring for which requires special attention, is the most capricious tree of all. fruit crops. Even if it blooms and grows well, this does not mean that there will be a bountiful harvest.
Choosing a landing site
Plum does not like stagnant water, so you need to choose an elevated place for planting, especially when the site is in a low-lying and swampy area. Usually it is planted on the south side, as it loves the sun very much and is not shade-loving.
Soil preparation
Light loamy soil or black soil is suitable for planting plums. If nothing has grown in the chosen location for a long time, then it is recommended to dig up the area within a radius of two meters from the center and 30 cm in depth or use a device for aerating the soil.
Standard sizes pits: 1 m in diameter and 0.5 m deep. The excavated soil is mixed with manure. It is not recommended to apply any mineral fertilizers to the soil. If desired, you can add a little sand and gravel (they warm up in a short time and help the root system develop faster). The resulting mixture is returned to the pit, leaving a small part for backfilling.
Planting seedlings
Planting of plums in spring occurs during the period of swelling of the buds on the seedling (early April). A peg is installed in the prepared hole, which is necessary to support the young plant.
The seedling is lowered and sprinkled with the top layer of soil so that the root collar is 5 cm above the ground. The soil is lightly compacted by hand, and the young trunk is tied to a peg. It is important that it is located strictly perpendicular to the surface of the earth.
Under no circumstances should young plum plants be planted in the shade of other trees. Otherwise, their development will be slow and the leaves will lose color. The required distance between pits is approximately 3 m. If planting occurs in rows, then there should be the same gap between them.
Features of care
Caring for a plum in the spring involves proper pruning, necessary fertilizing and regular watering.
Trimming
It is an integral part of care. In the first few years, the plum grows very quickly, so during this period it is important to correctly form its crown. The tree has a straight stem and long side shoots.
When active growth begins, you need to select a dozen main branches. They should be at an even distance from each other and at an angle of 45º from the trunk. They are shortened by 1/3 of their own length. Branches with a lower slope are more prone to brittleness, so they are pruned along with the rest of the shoots to prevent the tree from thickening.
Fertilizer and watering
Caring for plum trees in the first two years after planting does not require fertilization if the soil is rich in minerals. But it is very sensitive to a lack of potassium and nitrogen, which is reflected in the appearance of a brown color on the leaves. If such signs are present, it is recommended to add ammonium nitrate (30 g/m²) to the soil, after diluting it in a bucket of water (10 l).
Plums (starting from the 3rd year) are best suited for feeding organic fertilizers. For 1 m² of soil, use up to 1 kg of manure or compost and 200 g of ash (after application, water generously).
The feeding procedure is carried out 2 times a year: in early spring to stimulate tree growth, and in early summer, when the ovaries are formed.
Care also includes watering the plum. Young trees require frequent but less irrigation. They are moistened 4-6 times per summer season 5-6 buckets of water. Mature fruit-bearing trees - from 3 to 5 times 10 buckets.
If the plum tree is already producing a harvest, then it is best to put supports under the branches to avoid breaking them. For better care gardeners advise wrapping the trunk with burlap for the winter and periodically shoveling snow under it, forming protection from wind and cold.
Plum propagation
Plum cultivation is carried out in several ways:
- root shoots;
- shoots;
- seeds.
Growing from root shoots
To do this, you need to step back from the trunk about 1 m and dig out a root 1.5-2 cm thick. It is cut into pieces 15 cm long. The procedure is best done in the fall. The resulting material is covered with sand and kept in the refrigerator throughout the winter.
In early May, you can plant them in the ground, covering the planting site with film to create greenhouse conditions. It is necessary to ensure constant soil moisture. When sprouts appear in a month, the film can be removed. Growing a plum from shoots to seedlings takes about 2 years, so it is rarely used.
Reproduction by shoots
The most effective and proven method. Around the plum trunk, young vertical shoots begin to sprout from the roots, which are shoots. It is better to choose those that are located further from the trunk; they form a good root system.
They are cut off, leaving a shoot height of 20 cm, and the cut site is treated with garden varnish so as not to introduce infection into the sprout. Afterwards, they are planted in the ground to build up the root system, then transplanted to the main place.
Growing from seed
Having selected good and ripe fruits, the bones are cleared of pulp, washed and soaked in clean water for 4-5 days. Then dried and stored in a jar. Germination can begin in October.
A stratification procedure should be carried out (cold treatment, which helps soften the hard shell of the bone). To do this, planting material is wrapped in a damp cloth with sand and placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator (a basement, cellar or any other cool and damp place is also suitable).
Under no circumstances should the fabric be allowed to dry out, as this can lead to the death of the sprouts. In the spring, they are planted in the ground under a film, like root shoots.
Bottom line
Growing plums requires a lot of effort and special care. But if you follow the proven advice of experienced gardeners, the result will not be long in coming. Collect good harvest You will be able to enjoy tasty and healthy fruits within 4-5 years after planting.
