In addition to the traditional Christmas tree, your home can also be decorated with miniature versions of the New Year's beauty. To make them look no worse and also please the eye, you can use LED garlands to make them.
The traditional large Christmas tree has been replaced by its miniature versions, made from the most different materials. A Christmas tree made of LEDs looks the most festive. There are several ways to make an LED Christmas tree with your own hands. The Christmas trees look different and original.
LED Christmas tree on the wall
The simplest and easiest option for making an LED Christmas tree does not require special effort. To make such a Christmas tree you will need an LED garland, push pins and photographs or small plastic toys. The Christmas tree will decorate the wall.
The buttons must be secured at the top of the spruce tree, at the ends of its legs and at their base. Mark the middle of the LED string and secure it to the top button. Next, pass both ends of the garland through the buttons, depicting a Christmas tree. You can decorate such a Christmas tree with light balls, toys or photographs. Turn on the LED garland and admire the new Christmas tree.
LED Christmas tree from a bottle
An original Christmas tree with LEDs can be created using an empty champagne bottle. In addition to the bottle, you will need a drill, drill bit, plasticine, glue, LED garland and parchment paper.
The bottle must be removed from the label and rinsed. Attach the prepared bottle to work surface using plasticine. Cover the drilling area with plasticine at the bottom of the bottle. Start drilling the hole. Once a small indentation is formed, place a few drops of water into the hole. This is necessary so that the drill does not heat up too much. Drill the hole all the way through. Remove all plasticine, rinse the bottle and wipe it dry.
Pass the garland through the drilled hole and fill the bottle with it. To make the product more reminiscent of a Christmas tree, roll the white parchment paper into a cone and secure the edges with glue. Turn on the garland. Now your Christmas tree is ready.
LED Christmas tree made of floral mesh
This Christmas tree appearance will resemble a champagne bottle Christmas tree, but will look more aesthetically pleasing. To make a Christmas tree you will need floral mesh, thick cardboard, cling film, scissors, PVA glue, brush, sewing needles, LED garland and decorations for the Christmas tree.
From cardboard you need to twist a cone of the desired height. Cut the floral mesh into strips. Dilute PVA glue with a small amount of water in a container. Wrap a cardboard cone with cling film and cut off the excess. Soak pieces of floral mesh in a glue solution and apply them to the cone, fastening them with sewing needles. After the first layer of mesh has dried, lay out the second in the same way. Leave the cone to dry completely.
After this, remove the mesh cone from the cardboard structure and carefully remove the film. Place an LED garland inside the cone and decorate the entire Christmas tree with toys.
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Perhaps one of the few DIY soldering kits, the result of which is useful product(we do not take into account kits for assembling full-fledged devices), which after assembly will not go to lie in a dark corner, but will be used for its intended purpose, especially if a child is involved in the assembly.
The review contains a description of a DIY 3D Christmas tree and assembly instructions.
After assembling the constructor, you should get a 3D Christmas tree, flashing LEDs in 3 colors, which can run on 3 AA batteries or be powered by USB.
The set is packaged in a bubble wrap bag and additionally wrapped in foam film. I ordered from this seller () several times, everything arrived without damage in the same packaging, the package was in order. At the time of ordering he had best price on AliExpress for this tree, and there were about 200 sales, now there are already more than 1,700.
The kit for soldering a 3D Christmas tree includes:
3 boards (CTR-30C base and 2 tree trunk parts CTR-30A and CTR-30B)
LEDs (12 green, 12 yellow, 13 red)
6 capacitors at 47uF 16V
6 transistors S9014
7 resistors 10 KOm
2 resistors 330 Ohm
2 resistors 1 KOm
2 resistors 2 KOm
1 button
1 power connector (length 1 m)
1 x USB power cord
2 bolts and 2 nuts
Box for 3*AA batteries
Here's what was included.
Main details close-up. The EQKIT logo is on the boards. 
Boards with reverse side:
Larger: 
All components were available, there was even an extra LED left. Before soldering, I checked all the elements with a transistor tester, they all turned out to be in good order. Unfortunately, there are no assembly instructions included.
The seller attached assembly instructions in the form of photographs, but did not sign the resistor values, and the attached photos make it very difficult to see the resistor values. But the seller is responsive, quickly sent a diagram, albeit in Chinese, but most importantly from a completely different tree. After pointing out this fact, he said that he only had such a diagram, but still promised to answer any questions if something could not be assembled. At this point, it was decided to finish torturing the seller and try to collect them from the pictures he had, with the assumption that they were from this particular set. In the end, everything worked out, all resistor values and other information on the assembly will be indicated below.
The contact pads on the boards are perfectly tinned. When soldering, I didn’t even have to use flux; what was contained in the solder was enough. He soldered half of the tree with primitive Chinese, although with some purchased separately for him. Actually, I started this to test new tips; it turned out that the “unusable” Chinese soldering iron is quite suitable for such simple work, because... the native stings didn’t even want to take the solder. The other half was soldered with a soldering iron at a station with T12 tips. Now I couldn’t determine where and what it was soldered with, i.e. You can assemble this construction set using any tool, as long as your hands are in the right place :)
I checked the resistors with a multimeter for compliance with the markings and signed them for convenience. Perhaps it will be useful to someone. 
First, I soldered all the resistors to boards A and B. Everything is clear with the 10K resistors, they are labeled on the board. The remaining denominations should be placed in the following places:
CTR-30A board
R1, R3, R5, R7 - 10K
R2 - 2K
R4 - 1K
R6 - 330
CTR-30B board
R1, R3, R5 - 10K
R2 - pictured - 330
R4 - pictured - 2K
R6 - pictured - 1K
The following happened. You can see where the resistors should be. 
Next you need to solder the transistors and capacitors. On the board the capacitors are labeled as 22uF, but in the kit they come with 47uF, for some reason the Chinese didn’t save money here. We bend the legs of capacitors and resistors 90 degrees so that after soldering they lie horizontally on the board and do not stick out in different sides on the finished product. The negative contact of electrolytic capacitors (C1, C2, C3) is indicated on the board by a shaded area, and on the capacitor itself by a light stripe. The orientation of the transistors (Q1, Q2, Q3) is also indicated on the board in a semicircle; accordingly, the contour of the transistor body must coincide during installation (before bending the legs) with the pattern on the board. IN in this case It turned out that all the transistors are lying “face down”, and oriented in the opposite direction from the semicircle on the board.
All resistors, transistors and capacitors are soldered in. 
Next we solder in the LEDs. LEDs have polarity, everything is marked on the board. All LEDs are oriented the same way, so it’s enough to remember how to solder one, the rest are similar. For those who are not in the know, in this case the LED is soldered with a short lead (cathode, “-”) closer to the top, respectively, with a long lead (anode, “+”) to the bottom of the tree. During the final assembly of the tree, you will need to solder the last red LED on the top, the polarity is already indicated there, solder the long lead of the LED to the “+”.
Before soldering, bend the legs of the LEDs at a right angle so that the body of the LED extends beyond the tree. 
The distribution of LEDs by color is as follows:
Fee A:
D1-D6 - red,
D7-D12 - yellow,
D13-D18 - green.
Board B:
D1-D6 - green,
D7-D12 - red,
D13-D18 – yellow,
All parts on the main boards are soldered. 
Another photo from a different angle. 
I recommend testing the boards before assembly by applying a voltage of 4.5-5V to them. Each board can operate independently, i.e., in principle, you can get two 2D trees. If the trees work separately, you can proceed to further assembly.
I think there is no point in describing the assembly process further, because... everything is obvious. Boards A and B are secured together with solder. The main thing is not to confuse the polarity when installing the Christmas tree on board C (the polarity is marked everywhere, you need to try to confuse it).
The battery holder has a rather long wire, which is not needed here; it is better to cut it to the required length. Just in case, let me remind you that the red wire needs to be soldered to the “+” terminal, the black wire to the “-” terminal (labeled BAT 4.5V).
We solder the power button, a connector for power via USB, screw on the battery holder - the whole set is ready. 
For more reliable fastening of the DC 5V power connector, the kit does not include a metal bracket, although holes are provided for it. Instead, you can use the rest of the leg from a resistor or capacitor, which is what I did.
Here you can see how the boards are soldered together. Everything is held very confidently, it will fall apart only if you specifically set this goal. 
The tree works quite well on Ni-MH 1.2V batteries, I tested it on . But when working from USB (5V), the light is still brighter. I tried to measure the power consumption when connected via USB, it shows 0.00A, while the tree flashes with all its might and works as it should, therefore the current consumption is very small, below minimum threshold tester response, so the batteries should last a very long time.
3D Christmas tree assembled: 
We turn on the power - the LEDs glow and blink smoothly, pleasing to the eye. 
I liked the toy, it was interesting to assemble, and so did the children. This is one of those soldering kits that, after assembly, is not thrown into a distant drawer, but can be used, for example, as a night light for children.
Those who saw this Christmas tree and know what a soldering iron is also wanted to assemble it. Apparently there is something in it... I bought it in the summer, so I managed to assemble it for the New Year. But now the prices for such sets have decreased.
On the eve of the New Year holidays, the soul demands that everything around be beautiful, magical and reminiscent of the upcoming celebration. People actively decorate not only indoors, but also outdoor spaces. In this article we will tell you how with my own hands make a bright glowing Christmas tree. It will complement well the area near a house or a small store.
You will need:
- plastic hooks;
- the LED garland itself (for a 2.5 meter Christmas tree, approximately 30-50 meters of garland are required);
- pegs;
- vertical support ( metal pipe, wooden block and so on.).
A little secret: a garland with closely spaced bulbs will help create a brighter and “fluffier” Christmas tree. It is also important that the threads are located as closely as possible to each other. The standard length of a garland does not exceed 10-20 meters. To lengthen it, you can choose models with a special connecting connector at the end or fasten the products with improvised means (for example, tie them with threads). Once the garland is ready, start creating the decoration. What need to do:
- prepare free place on the site (for safety reasons, it is better to choose an area away from buildings and trees);
- install and securely fasten a vertical support, you can dig it into the ground;
- Place pegs at equal distances around the stand;
- take the garland and arrange it in this way: starting from the first peg, lift it to the top, fix it on a plastic hook, lower it down to the second peg, wrap it around, bring it along the ground to the third, lift it again to the top, etc.
As you can see, making an LED Christmas tree is very simple. It will take a minimum of time and will not require special preparation. The recommendations given can be used to create decorations not only outdoors, but also for the home. The principle is the same, you just need to adjust the height and cut out a round base with symmetrically located attachment points. Don't forget to disguise the vertical stand and bottom: you can cover them with green wrapping paper or wrap them with threads, ribbons, and tinsel.
Borisova Tatyana
I am an ardent fan of everything natural and environmentally friendly, so the question of which tree to buy for the New Year holidays - live or artificial - is not even worth it. I bought a Danish spruce 200/225 cm. The smell in the house is simply divine - fresh pine, and the festive atmosphere and the corresponding mood appeared on their own. I'm very pleased with the purchase.
Krasko Svetlana
I work as a secretary at a private children's development center. We purchased a live spruce 300/350 for installation in the hall. The tree is simply gorgeous - fluffy and thick, and also has a very beautiful and rich emerald shade. And after decorating with toys and garlands, it looks like it is in the best traditions of American cinema. Both children and parents are delighted.
Zhukova Larisa
Every year I promise that this year we will not put up a Christmas tree and will limit ourselves to a small artificial one, but from the eyes of my husband and children I understand that I am not going anywhere. I have been ordering green beauties from Denmark from this store for several years now. Although their price is slightly higher than domestic ones, they also look more presentable and last much longer. Last year our tree stood until Epiphany and looked the same as the day it was purchased.
Somehow before the New Year I was left without a Christmas tree and without Christmas tree decorations (since it was in the middle of the ocean). But my soul demanded a holiday... I somehow imitated the Christmas tree, but I had to think about the toys. It was then that the remains of multi-colored LED strips came to hand.
Next, I’ll start by chewing and then briefly describe how to make original LED Christmas tree decorations. And at the same time we will consider connection options.
For this we take LED strips different colors, not in silicone.
The first one will be round, let's chew it
| White ribbons, in the sense painted white, look festive | |
 |
Cut the tape with scissors in the right places three LEDs per correct segments |
 |
For this decoration we will need three pieces |
 |
Glue them together using adhesive backing |
 |
We fasten the first two segments in the form of the letter “L”. Please note that you need to maintain polarity and place the tape pieces with their poles facing each other, i.e. so that the plus of one tape is directed towards the plus of the other. |
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We glue the third one across, getting something like the letter “A” |
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We tin the pads at the ends of the tapes to make it easier to solder later. |
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And we connect them in pairs with wires, here I connected two “pluses” |
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Having soldered all the wiring we get this Christmas tree toy. Here I have short wires without insulation - this is wrong, everything needs to be insulated. By the way, short ones are a “plus”, and long ones are a “minus”. |
Further it would be correct to describe how and what to connect this joy to, but this will be later, but now I want to consider what other options there are.
Other options with a larger number of segments
Square
Then, in increasing numbers of segments, there is a square of four segments. I won’t chew it anymore, I think you can understand the principle from the photo. Just wanted to pay attention to the top two wires, they are both needed for a complete circuit. It’s not visible in the photo, but I made the top wire in the form of a loop.
Star
The star, naturally, already consists of five segments. The peculiarity here is that there are practically no wires, and the pieces of tape are attached to each other by soldering two contact pads to each other (do not forget to observe polarity!).
six pointed star
Consists of six segments. Or rather, these are two intertwined triangles, and I made them from different ribbons (different colors).
Ball
I also tried to make something three-dimensional and it turned out to be a ball like this. But I didn’t really like it and I stopped there.
More segments
You can go further by extending sections of ribbon, but, IMHO, this is already too much, then just glue it onto some kind of base and make snowflake appliqués.In progress
This is what it looks like when lit:
Connection
Option 1: simply 12V
The easiest way is to simply turn everything on to 12 volts and the multi-colored toys will shine steadily. We simply solder the connector that hangs on each reel with 5-meter tapes and plug in a regular 12-volt power supply, which is sold in the same place where the tapes are sold.
We solder the toys sequentially one after another. 
Option 2: RGB controller
More interesting option, this is to connect to an RGB controller, which are currently more than affordable, with a large selection of both functions and powers.If you connect toys of the same color in rows to the corresponding controller pin (a row of red ones to pin R, green to G, blue to B), we’ll get a MoodLamp-style Christmas tree - with a customizable color as desired.
Please note that on such controllers control is carried out via “ground” (as a rule), i.e. Common to all channels is the “plus” wire.
Option 3: Microcontroller
This is the most fun option, although it is also the most difficult and time-consuming. Those. It’s optimal to take some Arduino and a shield with a TLC5940, connect LED toys for 16 channels, connect a sound sensor and get a disco tree.This is exactly what I did last year:
Here's a short New Year's video report:
Threat. Who needs the sketch from this video?
Thank you
I hope mine small idea will be useful and someone can do it with its help New Year even more fun and colorful. Thank you to everyone who took the time to review my article. I look forward to your feedback and comments.LED Christmas tree do it yourself, no programming required!
This project shows how to do Christmas decoration in the form of a Christmas tree without much effort and knowledge. The Christmas tree has a size of 120 x 80 cm and is made of ordinary LEDs, but their operation does not require a microcontroller and its programming at all. This means that everyone can do it.
The project doesn't take that long to make, even though it contains almost 1,500 individual LEDs. It is assembled quite quickly and simply, but this is taking into account that you will follow the instructions given below, which will contain warnings against various errors. Before starting assembly, it is recommended to watch the video presented above.
Step 1: Materials and Tools
To make this project, you really don’t need as many materials and tools as you might initially think. This makes the project cheap and easy to make. So, you will need:
Materials:
- LEDs 5 mm. This project used almost 1100 green, 300 yellow and 100 blue LEDs. Moreover, the yellow and blue LEDs should be blinking.
- MDF or fiberboard sheet
- Soldering materials
- Electrical wires, about 30 meters, preferably made of thin, solid copper conductor. In this case, a split telephone cable was used.
- An old laptop charger as a power source, in this case we used an 18.5 Volt power supply with a power of 4 Amps.
Most main secret in this project is to have individual colors of LEDs flashing. In this project, these are yellow and blue LEDs. When designing, it was assumed that they would flash at different intervals, causing a random pattern over time, and this theory turned out to be correct. The moment power is applied, they start blinking at regular intervals, but after 10 - 15 seconds, they start blinking randomly. If we take into account this feature of non-uniform operation, it turns out that to create beautiful effect no microcontroller required, no programming required, no resistors, no capacitors, nothing but LEDs!
You will also need very few tools:
- Drill bit diameter 1mm and 5mm, drill
- Soldering iron
- Wooden model - matrix
- Insulating tape
- A tool for stripping wires (as it turns out, the most important one, since it greatly simplifies the work).
- Ruler, pencil and other small things.
Step 2: Preparing the design
Prep takes about half the time to make this project, and trust me, it's worth it.
First, you need to draw an image on graph paper (you can use graph paper), using only the colors of the LEDs that you can find. Be careful with red because... in this case, 100 red flashing LEDs were ordered, and it turned out that when they are combined into a series, they turn off the entire series at the same time and do not light up again (it looks ugly and is not recommended for you). By combining red LEDs in a series of 9 pcs. they practically did not catch fire. Blue and yellow LEDs are not affected by this problem, so we had to exclude red LEDs from the entire project.
In this project, the image was initially created in Photoshop, but it turned out to be sufficient difficult moment. After searching for similar programs on the Internet, many software products were found that decompose images into square pixels. There are a lot of them, and it’s up to you to choose which is more convenient. The essence of this step is to divide the image by color into squares of a certain size. Then print it on paper.
The next step is to properly orient the LEDs to reduce physical coupling. It would be possible to simply orient all the cathodes in one direction and the anodes in the other, creating a kind of square mask by connecting the power to only two poles, but in practice this turned out to be very inconvenient. Therefore, the connection diagram in this project looks like a connection of rectangular areas, since this does not require the presence of a large number of additional resistors to reduce the voltage supplied to the LEDs, and at the same time reduces the current consumption.
From technical description LEDs, it was found that each LED has a voltage drop of about 2.5 Volts. In order to completely eliminate the use of resistors, it was decided to combine LEDs in a series at the rate of 18.5 Volts / 7 pcs. = 2.6 Volts (LED voltage drop). Thus, one series of LEDs should contain 7 LEDs and at the same time they will glow at maximum brightness.
In our case, we used a template with squares, in the center of which there was a point a certain color. Then, on paper, each color was combined into a series of seven LEDs. It was a very tedious task, but fun in its own way, almost like solving a puzzle. As it turned out in the end, a series of 7 LEDs was not enough to withstand a voltage of 18.5 Volts, so in the end the series had to be increased to 9 LEDs. We strongly recommend that you find out and accurately calculate the permissible voltages for one series. This will save you from redoing the entire circuit again.
Step 3: Jig Soldering (LED Series)
To make life easier, a small matrix was made. Using the same dimensions as for final assembly, a small wooden board was made with a pitch of 5 mm between points. When applying this matrix to a sheet of MDF or fiberboard, it must exactly correspond to the drilling holes. After marking the holes, it is recommended to mark the row and column numbers, this will further simplify your further assembly. Also, on this matrix, in the next step, separate series of LEDs will be assembled, which will then be inserted into the main template.
Step 4: Create Custom LED Series
Now, if you have a convenient template for creating series of LEDs, you can proceed to the next step. We must start from the very beginning, i.e. from the first episode. Place the LEDs of the first series in the required order. Some of the LED legs must be shortened, otherwise they may cause a short circuit. Then straighten the legs of the LEDs so that you get serial connection(i.e. plus the previous one with the minus of the next one, etc.). To mark the series, small pieces of adhesive tape were glued with the series number on the anode of the last LED, and the minus was not indicated in any way. After assembling the series, it is checked for functionality, if everything is fine, then you can move on to the next series. This project produced 150 series of LEDs, the work is very tedious and requires attention. Don't forget to check connections after soldering.
Step 5: Preparing the fiberboard
The MDF sheet that was purchased for this project was the perfect size so there was no need to trim it. If you have such a need, then cut the sheet to the required size.
Draw a square grid across the entire sheet, but first make sure that it matches the grid you used to create the LED sections, i.e. corresponds to the preliminary matrix. Be careful if you break the square matrix a bit, i.e. Draw lines that are not perpendicular, it can ruin your entire project!
Then, using the square template drawn on the paper, identify the circular areas in which you need to drill holes. These are not exact areas, they are only needed to understand the outline of the figure. Then mark the exact points for drilling holes.
After this, to make the holes easier to drill, drill all the holes with a drill with a diameter of 1 mm, and then go through all the holes with a 5 mm drill. This step is quite time-consuming, it took approximately 7 hours to drill 1500 holes!
Another extra hour was spent sanding various irregularities and removing burrs.
Step 6: Installing LEDs into MDF Board
This step is quite simple, but again, if you have exactly the same dimensions of the preliminary matrix and the holes drilled in the MDF sheet. If everything is accurate, then simply insert the LED sections from the back of the MDF sheet into drilled holes, according to the paper map. Ideally, you won't need any LED fixing.
Be careful when inserting LEDs into the holes; if the distance is slightly off, there is a chance of damaging the LED lens or pin soldering. Also, don’t rush to remove the tape with section numbers, it will come in handy later!
Step 7: Create Positive and Negative Power Rails
To create power buses, you need to take a regular wire that is used for a voltage of 230 Volts (for example, the cores of a PVA wire), strip it of insulation, and twist it well to avoid delamination of small wires. Each side will require approximately 150 cm of wire. Then secure each of the cores on the back side of the MDF sheet, for example, with plastic staples, on both sides of the sheet vertically. Where the lines of the squares intersect, the wire must be tinned for further soldering (in this case, there were about 60 points on each side).
Step 8: LED Connection
At this step, when all the LEDs are in place, clearly determine where the series is plus and where it is minus. The order in which the sections are connected does not matter.
Start from the bottom row. Solder all sections one by one to the positive and negative power bus. In order to save time, wires and the number of soldering points, consider the possibility of parallel connection of sections - this will significantly save your time and effort. Remember that the wires for connecting to the power buses must be insulated, otherwise a short circuit will occur!
It is recommended to connect line by line, this will greatly help you if you make a mistake. Also, if you wish, you can add a regular power switch to the circuit between charger and an LED Christmas tree, in our case the project works simply by connecting the power supply to an outlet.
This concludes the production of the project, but remember that this idea is suitable not only for depicting a Christmas tree, you can also implement your own, completely different, ideas.
