Upholstery of entrance doors yourself. How to sheathe a door made of wood or metal. Upholstery on the inside of a wooden door

Leatherette– a leather substitute, is one of the most popular materials. The material is most widely used in construction and decoration.

The high demand for leatherette is justified by the following characteristics:

• Frost resistance. The material performs its functions well even at sub-zero temperatures. It also helps retain heat in the house, so it can be used on entrance doors;
• Durability. The material retains its properties from 7 to 10 years;
• Water resistance. The material has moisture-resistant properties, which prevents damage to the product or insulation;
• Soundproofing. The material can be used for the entrance door, since noise will not penetrate into the room through the canvas;
• Easy to care for. To maintain the appearance of leatherette, wiping is enough damp cloth. You can use a special cream that will add shine to the leatherette;
• Antiseptic properties. Resistant to bacterial rot, mold and other pests;
• Resistance to aggressive chemical environments. The material can be washed with any household chemicals;
• Low cost. Upholstery with leatherette is affordable for the average family;
• Wide range of textures and colors.

Instructions - trim with dermantine

In the process of upholstering a product, you need to adhere to a certain technology. It will allow you to make the most of beneficial properties material and will ensure a long service life. The procedure includes the following steps:

1. surface preparation;
2. upholstery with insulation;
3. leatherette upholstery;
4. decor with accessories.

Each stage has its own nuances, so you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the specifics of performing the listed points.

Preparation

If the casing is being replaced, you need to stock up on a knife, pliers and, if necessary, a screwdriver. The procedure is as follows:

1. Remove from hinges.
2. Dismantling of fittings.
3. Using pliers, all decorative nails are removed.
4. Leatherette and insulation are removed. Removing the insulation may take some time if it was attached to the metal door with glue.
5. The surface is prepared for covering.

If the door was not previously chipped, then all the fittings are simply removed. It is necessary to remove all elements that stick out on the surface. There should be a flat surface underneath the leatherette, so you can level the relief using a slab of plywood. It can be secured with ordinary nails. It is important not to forget to treat the wood with special products.

Insulation

First you need to decide on the insulation material. The most suitable for leatherette are:

• Foam rubber. Low price, a wide range of densities and thicknesses. Has a service life equal to leatherette. Has average insulating properties;
• Batting. Inexpensive material, with a service life of up to 30 years. However, over time it dents and can absorb moisture. It is toxic when burned;
• Izolon (a subtype of polyethylene foam). The most modern option. Has good insulating properties. The most expensive of all materials, but the final cost will not be too high.

On wooden surface The insulation is secured using a stapler. WITH outside You need to retreat up to 8 cm from the edges. Insulation is applied to the entire area, without indentation. Markings are applied for working with a stapler or driving nails. The step between staples or nails should be 10–15 cm. Treatment is carried out along the entire perimeter.

For a metal surface you need glue, which is also applied around the perimeter, up to 8 cm from the edges. Don't forget to cut off the insulation on the handle, lock and peephole.

Preparation of tools and accessories

To use your time efficiently, before upholstery you need to acquire a set of necessary tools. The set includes:

• hammer;
• stationery knife and, if necessary, scissors;
• stapler (if not, use a hammer);
• roulette;
• marker;
• brushes (for metal surfaces).

List of tools and materials for wooden and metal doors slightly different. Therefore, each material has its own cladding technology. It is also important to acquire all the materials at once:

• leatherette;
• insulation;
• staples or nails (wooden surface);
• glue (metal);
• decorative nails;
• braid (in case you need to additionally fix the leatherette and decorate the door).

Reference! Choosing decorative nails according to design is not difficult, since the market is overflowing with products of different shapes, sizes and colors.

Upholstery technology

Working together will go much faster. A second person will help stretch the fabric for comfort and evenness of the relief. The edges of the fabric are always bent inward, which will make the upholstery durable and aesthetically pleasing. The folds should be a few centimeters wide. The wooden door is covered with nails with a decorative cap. Step from 10 to 15 cm.

Important! You need to make sure that the insulating rollers do not peek out from the gates.

Leatherette should not cover the door to the very edges. A few millimeters need to be retreated to ensure free movement.

Curly decoration using decorative nails is often used. Soft insulation allows you to create a relief on the surface, which will completely transform the door. Be sure to use a marker to mark the locations for installing accessories. Next, nails are hammered into the designated places, which usually have a removable decorative cap so as not to damage it during installation.

There are a large number of patterns that can be created on the surface: from simple dots to geometric shapes such as rhombuses and squares. On the Internet you can find many patterns for decorating with furniture nails. You can stretch a decorative thread between the nails, which will change the pattern and relief.

For a metal door, you need to come up with a design at the preparation stage in order to secure the bases of the screw buttons with glue. Small holes for screw buttons are made in advance in the insulation and leatherette.

Upholstery of a wooden door: video

Upholstery has its own nuances. Wood needs care and protection. Therefore, wooden doors often have an unpresentable appearance. A good option restoration is upholstery with leatherette.

The tree must be treated with an antiseptic. When working with a wooden panel, the lining must be secured using a stapler. Since the iron surface requires glue, it is much easier to staple wood.

Furniture nails are used on the edges.

To be able to decorate the doors correctly, you must follow the instructions given in the video.

How to cover a metal door with leatherette?

A metal door is usually placed at the entrance, so it is extremely it is important to use high-quality insulation. Often only the inner side is insulated, but a range of decorative accessories allows you to decorate outside using insulation.

A metal door does not require insulation beads on the outside. The size of the insulation should be 1–2 cm smaller at the edges of the surface area. You need to take a piece of leatherette that is 5–6 cm larger at the edges than the area of ​​the door. This is necessary for bending. The upholstery process consists of the following steps:

1. Glue is applied around the perimeter, retreating up to 2 cm, and in thin strips over the area.
2. Insulation is applied and pressed for a while. The drying time for the glue is indicated on the packaging.
3. Starting from the top, glue is applied to the back of the product at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Press the leatherette until the glue sets.
4. The same procedure is carried out on the lateral edges. It is important to stretch the fabric to a uniform relief. Sometimes you have to cut off extra pieces that will prevent the door from closing.

Upholstery on the inside

The inside of the front door can be insulated with polystyrene foam. Thus, it will also be possible to simplify the procedure for upholstery with leatherette. The insulation process is as follows:

1. A frame under the foam is fixed over the area of ​​the door. For this purpose, planks having the thickness of polystyrene foam boards are used. The slats are fixed using metal screws, which are fixed into pre-drilled holes.
2. All large seams and joints are sealed with polyurethane foam.
3. Foam boards are installed in the frame, which are fixed with special glue. The gaps between the plates and slats are also sealed with polyurethane foam.
4. A sheet of plywood, equal to the area of ​​the door, is nailed to the slats.
5. The further procedure is similar to upholstery of wooden products. It is only important to ensure that the decorative nails are nailed to the location of the slats.

On the inside, insulating rollers are attached to door frame. They should be placed flush with leatherette on the hinge side. WITH reverse side and on top the protrusion should be up to 5 mm. From below, the roller is located at a height of 1.5–2 cm from the floor.

When choosing a material for upholstery, it is important to remember the disadvantages of leatherette:

• Low fire safety. A highly flammable material that emits acrid smoke when burned;
• Not the most durable material, which is easily scratched and cut;
• In case of mechanical damage, it will not be possible to return to its previous appearance.

There is also important points things to consider when choosing leatherette:

• The material must be elastic. The hardness of leatherette indicates a fake;
• Choose a coarser fabric;
• A pungent odor indicates poor quality of the fabric.

When upholstering with leatherette, it is important to maintain the consistency of the process and take into account the characteristics of the materials used. If the technology is not broken, then such upholstery will last up to 10 years.

Source: https://tkaner.com/materialy/dermantin/kak-obshit-dver/

Step-by-step guide to upholstering doors with dermantine

Upholstering doors with dermantine is an easy and inexpensive way to decorate and insulate a home, which begins with the entrance to a house or apartment.

To perform this work you will need knowledge of some of the features of door trim.

Namely: the properties and characteristics of dermantine, the lining material used, tools for working with wood or metal, decorative, fastening elements and more.

Dermantin (from the ancient Greek leather) is a type of artificial leather made from cotton fabric and a layer of nitrocellulose covering the fabric on one or both sides.

Dermantin for door upholstery is positioned on the market as a substitute for expensive natural leather, not inferior to it in some characteristics. It is also used for furniture upholstery, book elements, bags, wallets and car interiors.

Dermantin is a finishing material that has the following advantages:

• Not subject to rotting and decomposition, resistant to various microorganisms;
• Moisture-resistant, does not allow moisture to penetrate into the layer of lining material, protecting it from the appearance of mold and unpleasant odors;
• Relatively durable material, capable of lasting ten years with proper care;
• Resistant to abrasion and chemical agents (acids and alkalis);
• Easy to wash and clean with conventional detergents: soap and powder;
• Frost-resistant, able to withstand temperatures down to minus 35 degrees (depending on the type of dermantine).

Despite all positive properties dermantine, many are not satisfied with its shortcomings, namely: when the slightest damage(cut or rupture), leatherette cannot be repaired and a separate part cannot be replaced, so full door upholstery with dermantine is required.

When burned, leatherette releases harmful substances that are unsafe for human health and contributes to the rapid spread of fire, as it is flammable and fire hazardous.

These disadvantages are not so important if you consider that dermantine has a lot of useful consumer qualities, some of which are described above.

The distinctive properties of dermantine include the fact that the leatherette can be easily and simply cut, it does not crumple, does not wrinkle and does not shrink. In addition, there are enough on the market wide choose types of material colors from gray to red. So you can choose what will most harmoniously fit into the interior of the apartment.

What characteristics should you consider when buying leatherette? When purchasing dermantine for upholstery, you should pay attention to how the material stretches and whether it forms cracks when stretched. Also look at such a parameter as wear resistance, it should be at least 30,000, and better yet 50,000 cycles. The greater the number of cycles, the stronger fabric to abrasion.

Dermantin must be resistant to kinks from bending the material and scratches. Also consider the UV resistance characteristics of dermantine if your door is exposed to direct sunlight most of the time.

The surface of leatherette can be smooth or matte, imitate aged leather, etc. Pay attention to the color scheme of the artificial covering, which color and texture will best harmonize with the design of handles and hinges, peepholes and other fittings.

Plain and decorative upholstery

When choosing upholstery material in a store, take into account the type of door upholstery. There are two types of screeds: regular and decorative.

Regular upholstery includes simple finishing door leaf a smooth sheet of leatherette, which is attached to the base only at the edges. A decorative tape is also attached around the perimeter, attached to the door every 10 cm.

Decorative or carriage door upholstery with dermantine is a kind of finishing performed on a base made of wood or MDF panels nailed to the door leaf.

First, the fabric is stretched over the entire door leaf, and then fixed in certain places with buttons or nails with leather heads.

In this case, the pattern on the button cloth can be diamond-shaped or square, depending on the preferences of the owner of the room.

Schemes and drawings of decorative upholstery.

Trimming elements for a wooden door: rollers, backing material, nails

When preparing for reupholstery, it is important to know about the main materials and elements that make up the process of covering the door.

Rollers

When upholstering doors with dermantine, rollers are used. A roller is a special element that serves to protect the house from drafts and cold. It forms a tube of lining and dermantine, nailed along the entire perimeter of the entrance to the door leaf or to the door frame.

The placement method depends on the type of door opening. If it opens into the room, then the roller is placed on the back side of the entrance to the house. The roller should extend a few millimeters beyond the box. In this case, the distance between the canvas and the roller should be such that the roller “slows down” the opening of the door and it slams with little force.

With the method of opening the structure outwards, the roller is nailed to the door leaf itself. In this case, they fix it first, and then add the lining.

Door upholstery with dermantin is carried out without a roller only in one case: if the metal structure is installed without special bars that allow the rollers to be attached to them.

Lining material

The lining for upholstery is most often foam rubber or isolon with the addition of batting. It is possible to use one batting or padding polyester. When using the latter, a more rigid and ribbed structure is obtained.

Foam rubber allows you to achieve softer and smoother surface changes. It has better sound insulation properties than batting and synthetic winterizer, and isolon boasts the most outstanding thermal insulation.

Izolon is a new lining material made of polyethylene, more expensive, but also more advanced. It does not allow cold air to pass through and absorbs noise, being an environmentally friendly material.

Nails

Door upholstery with dermantine is done using special nails with wide heads. Nails for sheathing can be either metal or leather (leatherette). Steel nails come in silver and gold.

Leather nails are made manually, so their cost may be slightly higher than regular ones. In addition, there are special decorative nails that serve as decoration for doors.

To give the door leaf a beautiful and modern look, you don’t need to spend huge sums on paying reupholstery specialists. Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine is easy and simple, you only need proper preparation doors to the banner and tools with materials.

Preparing the door for reupholstery

How to determine the size of the material required for door upholstery with dermantine, taking into account the size of the door leaf?

The leatherette should be equal to the area of ​​the door plus 15 cm on each side. For rollers, you need one cut 14-15 cm wide and a length equal to the height of the door and two cuts cut to fit the width of the door leaf.

The number of rollers is increased if the door opens outward (all four sides are upholstered). Foam rubber or isolon is cut out the size of the door leaf, the thickness of the insulation should be no more than 2 cm.

Let's also count the number of nails. It depends on the pattern and the distance between the nails. For a standard door, you may need somewhere around 50-60 pieces, excluding the design.

Tools for work: hammer, stapler, knife, pliers, scissors, nails. For metal doors, upholstery is carried out without nails, on an adhesive basis. You will need at least 100 ml of glue.

Door trim technology

We free the door from everything unnecessary: ​​handles, hinges, old upholstery, etc. At the first stage, they will only get in the way. The methods of attaching leatherette to the door leaf differ depending on the material of the door.

Tree

We make rollers: we fix strips of leatherette face down directly on the door using a stapler. We lay the insulation tubes and tuck them in, covering the foam rubber. We hammer it in with a stapler or nails. In the lower part of the door leaf, the material must be hammered so that the distance between the roller and the floor is 1-2 cm, otherwise the roller will simply rub out where it touches the floor.

We strengthen the lining: we fasten the foam rubber with a stapler starting from the middle of the door leaf (so the likelihood that the material will warp will be reduced to zero). We attach the lining so that the distance to the edge of the door is 1-2 cm. We attach batting to the layer of foam rubber (it protects the foam rubber from damage).

We fasten the dermantine: first we turn the top by 6-8 cm and fix it with nails, making sure that no folds or creases form. Then, straightening it, we stretch it along the sides and hammer it with nails around the perimeter of the door. Properly stretched material does not wrinkle or form folds. The distances between nails are maximum 10 cm, minimum 5 cm.

For a metal door the process is a little faster and easier; fastening occurs using glue.

Metal

The door is removed and placed on a flat base, for example, on four stools. Apply glue around the perimeter of the canvas and in the center, fix the insulation. Press the foam to the surface and leave to dry slightly.

Then they glue the main piece of leatherette starting from the top, just like with a wooden structure, moving to the sides and ending at the bottom.

We hope our article will help you complete all stages of the work easily and without errors.

Source: http://o-dveryah.ru/remont/obivka-dermantinom/

How to upholster a door

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(detailed video instructions For DIY door trim, see bottom of page)

In this instruction we will tell you how to sheathe the front door yourself. To do this you will need: 1. Vinyl leather (dermantine, artificial leather, artificial leather, PVC film, vinyl leather, leatherette). Vinyl leather is sold by the cut, the width, as a rule, ranges from 110 centimeters to 140 centimeters.

If you have a standard metal door, then a piece of fabric 10-15 centimeters larger in size will be enough to cover it. If your door is wooden, then you need to take into account that in addition to covering the main door leaf, you will need to make rollers, for which strips of dermantine 12-15 centimeters wide are used.

In total, we will need three strips of length equal to the height of the door.

2. Lining material. For these purposes, you can use foam rubber with a thickness of 10-20 mm. If you need enhanced thermal insulation and sound insulation, then turn your attention to a material such as isolon.

Foam rubber is sold in sheets measuring one meter by two, which is just suitable for high-quality door upholstery.

3. Upholstery decorative nails. Usually special furniture nails with a wide head are used. The color range consists of shades of gold, silver, bronze and copper. We recommend choosing a nail color that matches the color of the locks and handles. This way your door will look quite harmonious. Also on construction markets You can find nails whose heads are covered with vinyl leather. You can choose nails that match the texture and color of the selected material, or you can do the opposite - play with contrast.
4. Glue. You will need it if you have an iron door that does not have holes for nails. “Universal Moment” is well suited for our purposes. To paste one side of the upholstery, a tube with a capacity of 100 ml is enough.5. Tools.1) Construction stapler and staples with a leg length of 8-10 mm.2) Hammer.3) Scissors.4) Knife (you can use a regular stationery knife with replaceable blades).5) Screwdrivers.6) Pliers.7) Brush ( for covering a metal door).

Once you have made sure that all of the above items are in stock, we proceed directly to the process of upholstering the front door. First of all, you need to dismantle all the locks, the door peephole and get rid of the old trim (if you need to reupholster the door). Here we will not describe this action, but will immediately begin the story about the main thing.

It is not at all necessary to remove the door from its hinges, as is advised in many similar instructions. So, we will divide our guide into three parts: upholstery on the inside, upholstery on the outside, and covering a metal door. But remember: the instructions for door upholstery give only general recommendations and do not take into account the features of a particular door.

At some points, you may have to use your wits.

How to upholster a wooden door with your own hands

Let's consider a situation when the door opens into the apartment. In order to beautifully upholster a wooden door yourself, it is advisable to start work by making a roller that will visually close the gap between the door frame and the door itself, and in some cases, fit tightly to the frame itself (this depends on the design and profile of the platbands).

First, we take one strip of dermantine and, using a stapler, nail it face down to the door surface so that it extends onto the door by about 3-4 cm. If your door has a padlock installed, then it is better to start nailing the roller from there. If all the locks are mortise, then start upholstering the door from the upper corner of the hinge side.

Having thus covered the entire perimeter of the door with strips of leatherette, we proceed to laying the foam rubber. First, it needs to be cut into strips 8-10 cm wide. We fix them on the door leaf with a stapler, tuck and nail the material so that the resulting roller protrudes by 1-3 cm, depending on the relative location of the door and trim.

The roller is ready.

Next, measure the resulting distance between the inner edges of the roller and cut out the foam rubber, subtracting one centimeter from these dimensions on each side. Use a stapler to secure it to the door leaf. The final part remains - upholstering the main surface wooden door.

We take a piece of dermantin by the corner, turn the edges in by 5-6 cm, place it in the corner of the door so that the material slightly overlaps the roller and hammer in a decorative nail, retreating about 5-7 mm from the edges. Then we take the second upper corner of the material, also turn it in and, pulling it a little, hammer in the second nail.

Next, you need to check whether the piece of leatherette lies evenly relative to the surface of the door leaf. To do this, in the middle of the door, pressing slightly, we run our hand from the top to the very bottom and, holding it with one hand, with the other we apply the lower corners of the material to the edges of the door, smoothing them from the center.

Accordingly, both on the left and on the right the distance to the edges of the dermantine should be the same. Having made sure that the beginning has been made correctly, we continue to trim the door. We nail the top edge, making the distance between the nails 10-12 cm.

Then we begin to do the same with any side, tucking the artificial leather an equal distance along the entire length and slightly, but not strongly, pulling it. Here it is important not to overtighten the dermantine, otherwise you will end up with something like a pleated skirt.

Fixing this will not be easy, since you will have to rip out already hammered nails, and there is a high probability that you will accidentally damage the upholstery material, and in any case, nail marks will remain on it. Having reached the bottom, we proceed to the second side.

Lastly, we secure the bottom edge of the upholstery material, having previously calculated the future distance between the nails so that it is the same along the entire bottom side of the door. All! The door is upholstered. All that remains is to install the locks and the peephole. Upholstering a wooden door with your own hands is quite difficult for an untrained person, which is why many companies offer their door upholstery services.

How to sheathe the outside of a wooden door yourself

The outer side of a wooden door should be covered with dermantine in a slightly different way. The first thing you need to do is close the door tightly and use a pencil to draw a projection of the door frame onto the door leaf itself. In other words, draw lines with a pencil along the entire perimeter.

You will get the outline of the future door trim, and the remaining indentation is needed for the so-called “quarter” of the door. If the door is installed professionally and the locks are adjusted correctly, then the door leaf should fit snugly against the frame, and if, when upholstering, we move the dermantine beyond the line, then in the end the door simply will not close.

Now we nail the bottom part of the insulating roller. We attach it to the door so that when it is closed it fits snugly against the threshold. For this we already have an outlined border at the bottom. If the bottom roller is nailed to the threshold itself, then over time it will wear out from constant foot contact. Next, we fix the lining material with an indentation of 1 cm from the line.

and similarly to the previous paragraph, we nail the main piece of vinyl artificial leather. Now you need to make an insulating roller on the right, left and top. In this case, it will be mounted on the door frame. It is made almost similarly to the internal roller, only it is advisable to fill it big amount foam rubber.

On the hinge side we place it flush with the jamb, and on the top and lock sides we push it out by about 3-5 mm, depending on the size of the gaps between the door leaf and the frame. If the roller is made too large, the door will close with difficulty and force.

If the roller turns out to be small, it will not perform its main function - sealing the opening. Therefore, it is important to catch the “golden mean” here. Finally, we nail the remaining bottom edge of the trim and install the peephole, handle and locks. Don't rush at this stage. As they say, measure twice, cut once.

Make cuts in the upholstery for locks and handles with care, do not cut off excess. It would be a shame to screw up all the work done at the very end of the process. Now you know how to sheathe the outside of a wooden door yourself. This will significantly increase its insulating properties, and also increase the sound insulation of the front door.

How to upholster a metal door with dermantine yourself

We take a tube of glue and a brush and coat the entire perimeter of the metal door. Then we apply a sheet of foam rubber and, pressing lightly on it, glue it. Further, stationery knife We cut the foam rubber exactly along the profile of the metal sheet. If the blade is sharp, this procedure will be quite easy and pleasant.

Now we apply glue to the upper end of the door (if it is the inner side) or on the back side of the top strip (if it is the outer side). When using glue, be sure to follow the instructions for use! Next we glue the dermantine and, similar to the method above, check the uniformity of its distribution.

Then we glue the leatherette on the hinge side. And then - from the lock side, pulling right hand with a slight effort, and with the left - driving away excess dermantine. So, all that's left is the bottom edge. This side of the metal door is the most difficult to apply glue to.

There are situations when the gap between the bottom edge iron door and the floor is only two to three millimeters. If you are unable to glue the leatherette underneath, you will have to remove the door from its hinges. This way you can make your task much easier.

When the fabric is glued on all four sides, use a utility knife to carefully cut off the excess at the corner at the junction of the end and the flap (narthex), install a peephole, door handles and locks. As you can see, it is quite possible to upholster a metal door yourself. Try it - and sooner or later you will succeed!

Source: http://profobivka.ru/obittdver.html

How to sheathe a door made of wood or metal

The simplest and most popular way to give a door an attractive appearance is to upholster it with some material. This can be done both indoors and outdoors, you just have to use different materials and various technologies. But in any case, the process is called “door trim”. About all the subtleties and nuances - below.

What can you use to beat doors?

There are two types of door upholstery - soft and hard. The soft one is made from two materials - dermantine (leatherette) and vinyl leatherette. Dermantin is a woven cotton base coated with a film of nitrocellulose. This material was popular in the 40-60s of the last century, as it was practical and inexpensive.

A little later, vinyl leather appeared. This material is made on different substrates - woven and non-woven, stretchy and not. Accordingly, artificial leather has different properties. A layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC or PVC) is applied to the base. It is more durable and chemically neutral.

It has only one significant drawback - it reacts poorly to ultraviolet rays - it loses elasticity, changes color, and can crack. Therefore, upholstery of doors facing directly onto the street with vinyl leather is undesirable.

There is, however, a material with increased resistance to UV rays, but this is a special material and you need to pay attention to this when purchasing.

Leatherette door upholstery: several options

Now about a little confusion in terminology. Dermantin in its pure form, as it was in the last century, has not been produced for quite some time. Instead there is different types vinyl faux leather.

There are also materials coated with other polymers, but there are not many of them. So, from old memory, they are all called dermantine or leatherette (although it is correct, by the way, to say “dermatine” without the “n”).

So when you see this name, you need to clarify what kind of material is meant, since the properties and prices differ significantly.

Despite the fact that the material is essentially the same, it has different characteristics and appearance. There are elastic types that stretch well, and there are hard ones that are difficult to stretch. In addition, modern artificial leather has many colors and shades and can have different surface structures:

• smooth - shiny and matte, there is even a metallic effect;
• porous;
• structured, imitating different types of leather (snake, crocodile, etc.).

  Crocodile skin

So the choice of soft upholstery materials for doors is extensive. Apparently, this is the determining factor in the popularity of this type of door upholstery.

There are more rigid upholstery materials for doors, although they are used less often:

• MDF panels with thickness from 8 mm to 18 mm;
• natural wood - fragments, solid wood;
• veneer;
• laminate;
• plastic;
• postforming.

From this entire list, doors are most often finished with MDF overlays/panels. This type of upholstery is especially popular for decorating metal doors, including homemade ones. The panels are made according to the dimensions of a specific door leaf, after which they are installed with glue or foam into fixed starting strips. In this case, it makes sense to make the slopes from MDF.

From the catalog - options for MDF overlays, and all this in different colors...

Door trim is practically the same with other materials - laminate, plastic, postforming. Starting profiles are installed around the perimeter of the door, into which fragments of trim cut “to size” are inserted. Everything is simple, if you have basic skills in working with a drill, saw and hammer, you can do it yourself in a few hours.

Door upholstery with dermantine

The most popular way to cover a door is with artificial leather. This section allows, at the same time as improving the appearance, to increase the thermal and sound insulation performance. But this type of door trim also has its disadvantages - this is the most complex technological process, requiring at least a general understanding of the procedure.

Upholstery methods

We will talk about the technology of door upholstery with dermantine. You can attach it in two ways: with a roller around the perimeter of the door leaf and without it. Depending on this, the order of actions changes (more on this later).

Door upholstery with dermantine - with and without a roller

Examples of patterns for door upholstery with dermantine

For banners, you can use the same material that was used to trim the doors. It is cut into strips 2.5-3 cm wide, attached to the top nails, and then pulled and fixed by the next nails to form a pattern.

To secure the strip, you can wrap it around a nail that is not completely driven in, which is then driven in. But this option is suitable if decorative nails have large heads.

If the caps are small, the strips are nailed.

The pattern can also be formed using a thin metal flexible cable, but it is more difficult to attach - it bends less easily.

How and with what to attach leatherette to the door leaf

If you need upholstery on a wooden door, usually no questions arise - they are secured with staples from a stapler, then nailed along the contour with decorative nails. Only here there are nuances: the staples must have a wide back (at least 1 mm), and the nails must be wallpaper nails with a wide head. The fastener installation step is from 2.5 to 7 cm, as desired.

The most commonly used wallpaper nails

More questions arise when it is necessary to cover an iron door with dermantine. There is only one way out - to plant it on glue. “Moment” glue is usually used, but you can use any other universal glue that can be used to glue both metal and leatherette.

It is used to lubricate the strip from the inside (the strip that runs along the perimeter of the door and covers the junction of the leaf with the door frame). When attaching vinyl artificial leather, it is cut out with a margin of 15 cm, just for the hem on both sides to the wrong side.

Materials for heat and noise insulation

Foam rubber is most often used to insulate doors. It is inexpensive and, if desired, allows you to create a voluminous convex pattern. The most common case is two layers of foam rubber 1 cm each.

This option is not the best - foam rubber has almost no effect on the soundproofing properties of the door, and this is what is sometimes very important.

In addition, after 3-4 years it loses its elasticity, begins to stick together, and you have to reupholster the door, although the appearance of the leatherette is still quite decent.

All this is true, but there are no worthy competitors for foam rubber yet. There are materials with certain properties that can be laid instead of one of the layers, and the second will still be foam rubber. For example, to improve sound insulation properties, you can use Isoton.

It is used for heat, sound and insulation of cars. Sold in small sheets, an adhesive composition is applied to the back side, protected by plastic film. So there will be no problems with installation. The disadvantages are the price and the rather large weight of the material.

To avoid problems, it is worth replacing the hinges with more powerful ones.

Materials for noise, heat and door insulation

There are two other materials used in the automotive industry with similar properties. These are “Splen” and “Vibrofilter”. All of them are made on an adhesive base and can be used to improve the characteristics of the door.

How to beat a wooden door

It is more convenient to work on removed door, but if this is a problem, you can beat it right on the spot. First you need to remove all the fittings from the door leaf - locks, latches, door peephole.

If there is old upholstery, it is carefully removed. If part of the door requires repair, the damaged fragments are removed and replaced with wooden ones cut to size.

The cracks can be covered with putty or foamed with polyurethane foam with a low expansion coefficient.

Options

If there was a pattern on the upholstery, and you are generally satisfied with it, we drive regular nails into the places where the nails forming the pattern were driven. We do not hammer them in completely; the caps should stick out 1-1.5 cm.

With their help, we will then break through the foam rubber and upholstery in the right places (just press with your fingers, all layers will be pressed through). We will take out ordinary nails, install decorative ones in their place, and use tape to form a pattern.

The procedure is simple.

To make the end of the door look no worse than the rest of the plane, we start with it. If you are not going to finish one of the sides, skip this step, just paint the end with paint to match the finish on one side or the other.

If we are going to upholster the doors on both sides, we cut out a strip of material about 10 cm wide. Look at your door more precisely, since the thickness of the sheet varies. The strip should cover the end and extend onto one and the other side by 3-4 cm.

Lay the strip, fasten it along the edge with staples (faster and easier) or nails with a large flat head.

We attach the strip to the end

To form a roller, you also need a strip of material. Width - 10-15 cm depending on how wide you want the roller. Then there are two options:

• Immediately form a roller. To do this, a rope of foam rubber or batting is placed in the middle of the strip and crimped in the middle. In this form it is fixed around the perimeter of the door. Afterwards, foam rubber and material are laid on top. To form a neat edge, the material is folded inward.

  The roller is formed immediately and is attached ready-made around the perimeter of the canvas.

• The roller is formed later, after the vinyl is laid on the canvas. Here the technology is different - the strip is attached around the perimeter, face down. Then the foam rubber and upholstery material are attached. The edges are not rolled up, just cut to size. After finishing, the strip is folded onto the front side (a strip of foam rubber can be placed in it), folded and secured with wallpaper nails.

  The strip for the roller is fixed in advance; the roller itself is formed after the upholstery material is fixed

The difference between these two methods is only in appearance: in the first case, the nails are nailed along the edge of the upholstery (pictured on the right), in the second - along the edge of the bolster (pictured on the left). They choose who they like best. For example, it seems to me that the first option (on the right) looks better - more neat. But this is just a personal opinion.

Two options for forming a roller

What is this roller for? In order to cover possible gaps between the canvas and the jamb. This way we avoid drafts and reduce heat loss.

But you can make a roller only if the doors are upholstered on the opening side (the doors open into the apartment, so we upholster them from the inside). If, on the other hand, this trick does not work, it will not close.

Then you have to do without a roller.

Without roller

In this case, everything is simple: the canvas is folded evenly, fixed with nails or staples - whichever suits you best.

Without roller

The door upholstery process in photo format

To reduce noise levels, the doors are covered with one layer of sound insulation and one layer of foam rubber. The option with preliminary production of the roller was chosen. First, we removed the old fittings and installed a new lock. The trim and handle were removed, but the internal parts remained in place. Let's start upholstering the doors.

We immediately form a roller - we lay narrow foam rubber in a strip of dermantine and fasten it along the perimeter of the door. It is more convenient to do this with staples from a stapler.

We nail the roller around the perimeter

The next step is to install sound insulation. It is on an adhesive basis, so there are no problems - they cut it to size, carefully removing the film and glued it on. When gluing, we try to squeeze out all the air; to do this, we tear off the film gradually, ironing the material from edge to edge.

We glue sound insulation

Now we attach foam rubber 1 cm thick. In this option, the most convenient way is staples made of construction stapler. First we fasten it around the perimeter, then often along the surface of the door so that the foam fits tightly.

We lay and fasten the foam rubber

The foam rubber is cut out with a small margin, and after installation the excess is cut off.

We turn the top edge 2-3 cm, start fastening from the upper left corner. There we hammer in the first nail, then we straighten the material and nail the second one at the top right. Then, in increments of 3-4 cm, we nail the upholstery with finishing nails from one edge to the other.

Folding the top edge, fasten it

We fasten from the hinge side, turning the edge inward. Straighten it evenly so that there are no creases at the top.

We nail from the hinge side

Afterwards the same operation is repeated from the side of the lock, then below. Actually, the door upholstery is almost finished, you just need to put the fittings in place.

We install lock linings and fittings

-lessons on the topic

Vinyl leather for door upholstery is sold both by the meter and in sets. In some sets the mounting method may be different: they have plastic profiles, which are attached around the perimeter of the door leaf. These profiles have a fixation system similar to that used in suspended ceilings. How to beat the doors in this case, watch the video.

The following video shows the process using roll material.

How to insulate and upholster the front door. The second type of roller formation technique is that it is nailed last.

How to upholster metal doors

The front part of metal doors is rarely upholstered - it already has a quite attractive appearance. Most often the internal part suffers. That's what we'll talk about.

There is a frame on the inside of the iron door. In some models it is metal, in others it is wooden. Thermal insulation material is placed between the frame slats. It can be polystyrene foam or slabs mineral wool. They are attached to polyurethane foam, which has a very small coefficient of expansion (required!). From above everything is covered with a sheet of plywood or OSB.

This standard option. If the slats are wooden, everything is fine, there are no problems - the doors will not freeze. But if the frame inside the door is metal, in good frosts everything will freeze through and through - through cold bridges, which are metal ribs.

To prevent this from happening, a layer of “Isoton” or “Spleen” is laid again on top of the foam/mineral wool, and then plywood is placed on top of them.

The remaining processes when upholstering a metal door are very similar to those described above. The only difference is in the method of fixation: the upholstery is glued to a suitable high-quality glue. The excess is immediately cut off at the joint using a sharp wallpaper knife.

This is where the classic mistake was made - there is no layer that cuts off the cold bridges. Otherwise, everything is shown well.

In order for the front door to always have an attractive appearance, it must be constantly looked after: painted, puttied, etc. To protect yourself from unnecessary hassle, you can do it differently - buy dermantine and cover the door leaf with it. In this case, all door care will be reduced to wiping its surface with a damp cloth. Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine will also increase its heat and sound insulation, making your apartment more secure and comfortable.

Types of materials for front door upholstery.

Preparatory work

To cover a door with dermantine yourself, you need to prepare the following tools:

• construction stapler;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• scissors;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• brush.

The following materials should be prepared:

Door trim diagram.

1. Dermantin. It is a rolled material 1.1-1.4 m wide. To carry out the work, you will need a piece of dermantine, the dimensions of which will exceed the dimensions of the door leaf by approximately 10-15 cm on each side for allowances.
2. Lining. Sintepon, foam rubber or isolon are perfect as a substrate. The choice of one option or another will depend on your financial capabilities.
3. Decorative cord for pulling dermantine.
4. Decorative nails. They are made in different colors, so you can easily choose the option that suits you best.
5. Glue. You need to purchase it if you plan to sheath a metal structure.
6. Antiseptic. Will be needed for processing wooden canvas.

Once everything necessary is prepared, you can begin to remove the old coating from the door leaf, and also determine whether you will remove the door from its hinges or not. If this is your first time encountering such finishing work, then it is best to remove the canvas and place it on a flat surface. After this, it is recommended to treat the wooden door with an antiseptic, which can protect it from mold and mildew.

It should be noted that the door is sheathed only on one side, so you need to pay attention to which way it opens. This is due to the fact that a roller is formed along the edges of the skin. In some cases, an additional roller is used, with which the door structure can be made more airtight.

Do-it-yourself cladding of a wooden door with dermantine

We nail the dermantine along the upper edge of the door in several places.

After the preparation is completed, you can proceed directly to the finishing work. The first step is to make rollers from the cut out dermantine strips, which are nailed along the edges of the fabric on the front side. They can be hollow or filled with cotton wool.

Then a layer of heat-insulating material is laid on the surface of the door, on top of which the dermantine itself is laid. In this case, a margin of about 8-9 cm should be left on the hinge side. The edges of the material are folded up and nailed with decorative nails along the entire edge.

Nails should be nailed in increments of no more than 10 cm, otherwise the dermantine will protrude.

Near the hinges, the finishing material is nailed last. In this part door design a hollow bead is created and nailed to the jamb.

To ensure that the insulation does not move out during the operation of the door, the dermantin is tied in several places with a decorative cord, which is fixed with decorative nails. To give the door a unique look, the cord can be laid in certain patterns. You can use a grid pattern, or you can create a beautiful vignette in the center. There are a lot of options for laying decorative cord. The most popular of them are presented in Fig. 1.

Metal door trim

Figure 1. Options for laying decorative cord.

The process of finishing a metal structure with dermantine differs somewhat from the instructions above. In many ways, metal door trim is even easier and faster, because there is no need to secure the finishing material with decorative nails. In the process of decorating a door with your own hands, this procedure takes the most time.

First, the metal door, removed from its hinges and prepared, is placed on a flat surface and its edges are smeared with glue, after which heat-insulating material is applied, trying to ensure that it immediately fits as it should. Then the insulation is pressed against the base of the door and the glue is allowed to set, after which the excess material on the sides should be trimmed with scissors.

Next, the ends of the door are treated with an adhesive composition and the finishing material is laid. This is done in this order: first the top is fixed, then they move to the side with loops, then the opposite side is glued, and at the very end the bottom is fixed. When installing dermantine, you need to carefully ensure that it is not warped and folds do not form on it.

After the glue has completely dried, the excess dermantine is trimmed off and the door is hung in its place. The surface of the door can also be decorated with cord. Only in this case, instead of nails, the same glue is used to fix it.

Properly executed door upholstery will serve you for many years, not only giving the entire structure an attractive appearance, but also protecting your apartment from outside noise and heat loss during the cold season.

Leatherette is a finishing material with special qualities. It does not wrinkle, does not fade from exposure sun rays, has a structural pattern, looks elegant and beautiful. The characteristics of the material include the following strengths:

• Durability. Leatherette is able to retain its properties for 7-10 years.
• Easy to care for. To give the upholstery a pleasing appearance, you can simply wash it with water and lubricate it with cream from time to time.
• Moisture resistance. The material has water-repellent properties. This reduces the risk of damage to the insulation and waterproofing of the door structure.
• Frost resistance. Its technical qualities and decorative properties leatherette retains even at low winter temperatures.
• Diversity color range. The material goes on sale in a large number of shade options. Therefore, buyers have access to a fairly wide selection of colors for future door upholstery, ranging from black to light shades of material.
• Antiseptic properties. Leatherette does not rot, does not mold and does not promote the reproduction of insects.
• Chemical resistance. Leatherette is resistant to chemicals. Therefore, it can be washed using various household products.
• Reasonable price. The cost of dermantine upholstery does not exceed affordable limits. This circumstance makes the material popular for most owners of apartments, cottages and private houses.

When decorating wooden and metal doors with dermantine yourself, another important problem is solved: heat and sound insulation of the room. Leatherette upholstery delays the penetration of street noise and cold outside air into the home.

This material has much fewer disadvantages:

• Flammability. Door upholstery with dermantine is susceptible to fire. Exposure to an open flame is especially dangerous for her.
• Inconvenient to repair. Cuts on leatherette are almost impossible to disguise so that they do not spoil the appearance of the upholstery. The best solution in this case it will be completely replaced.
• Strength of the material. To tear or cut leatherette upholstery, special effort not required. Therefore, you need to handle it carefully and not make enemies for yourself in order to avoid sabotage on their part.

What you need for work

To do the upholstery of the front door with dermantine yourself, you need to stock up on the necessary materials and simple tool. Their list includes:

• screwdrivers;
• hammer;
• construction knife and scissors;
• brush for applying glue;
• roulette;
• construction stapler;
• leatherette;
• lining material (foam rubber or batting);
• polymer glue;
• Decorative braid (it beautifully fixes the upholstery on the area of ​​the door leaf).

In addition to the above materials and tools, decorative nails will be required to cover the door. They need to be selected in accordance with the design of the upholstery and in harmony with the fittings of the front door. The caps of such nails look beautiful and have different colors or plastic coating. Fasteners are sold loose or in packages of 100 or 200 pieces each.

Leatherette door upholstery technology

The door can be finished with dermantine on both sides, from the inside or the outside. Working instructions includes several stages.

Preparatory work

Preparing the door for upholstery with dermantine is done as follows:

Roller arrangement

Leatherette rollers are necessary for high-quality insulation of the doorway. Before making them yourself, you need to take into account the direction of opening the door. If it opens outward, you will need four rollers for each side of the door leaf; if it opens inward, three will be enough.

To make one roller with your own hands, you need a strip of leatherette 10-15cm wide and a piece of lining material. One of the edges of the strip is attached along the side of the door, facing down. Then the lining is rolled up and wrapped with the other edge of the leatherette strip. Fixing the rollers on the door leaf is done with a stapler, nails or glue when finishing it metal surface.

Installation of lining material

When covering a door, the lining material plays the role of thermal insulation and absorption of noise from the street or staircase. The use of foam rubber as a lining is not as effective as the use of batting or isolon - more modern insulation materials. Therefore, it is recommended to use these materials for insulation. The lining material must completely cover the entire leaf of an iron or wooden door. When it is opened externally near door hinges you need to leave a small gap.

When working with your own hands on a wooden door leaf, the lining is secured with a stapler. Its staples are placed around the perimeter of the door at a distance of 15-20cm from each other. If you need to properly sheathe an iron door, its leaf is coated with glue, and the lining material is laid evenly on top and pressed lightly.

Covering the door with leatherette

To carefully cover a metal door with your own hands, you need to tuck the edges of the leatherette and use staples to secure them from the inside. Then you should coat the edge of the lining material, the hem with glue and press the upholstery. The work is performed with gradual movement in one direction.

Upholstering a wooden door leaf with dermantine is easier. The edges of the material need to be tucked in and nailed with furniture nails in increments of 10-15cm.

When doing the covering with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the fact that the places where the rollers are attached do not peek out from under the edge of the leatherette. In addition, when upholstering, you should leave a few millimeters from the edge of the door so that the new covering does not interfere with the movement of the door leaf.

Installation of fittings

At the last stage of work, covered door equipped with the necessary fittings. To do this, in the locations of the technical holes in the door leaf, you need to make small cuts in the upholstery yourself. The holes can be felt through the lining and leatherette. Then the lock, door handle and peephole need to be installed in their original places. Using decorative nails, you can make some nice design on the door upholstery. After this, all that remains is to hang the door on its hinges and enjoy the work done.

Sooner or later, any apartment owner comes to the conclusion that insulating the front door is a necessity. Covering a door with leatherette with your own hands will help solve several important problems - its thermal and sound insulation and decorative design.

The conclusion that the door should be insulated is usually realized in the cold season, when a draft begins to blow through seemingly very small cracks. But is it worth waiting for winter? Isn't it better to carry out such work in advance?

When solving the issue of transforming the door leaf, you can contact the simple way sheathing - even stretch leatherette, but you can use more complex options when multiple pieces of material are used.

In any case, all the nuances need to be thought out in advance and the necessary tools and materials for the work must be prepared.

Preparing for door trim

To ensure that nothing distracts the master directly during the work process, you need to do the following in advance:

1. Prepare a sketch of the future cladding, if it has any pattern. This may be a carefully verified drawing or, in case of emergency, even an ordinary pencil sketch.

2. Based on the drawing, you can make a list necessary materials that will be needed for work:

• Leatherette or artificial leather can be purchased in specialized stores, where a large selection of this material is available. There you can choose it not only by thickness, but also by color and textured pattern on the surface. The standard width of leatherette is 1100 ÷ 1400 mm - it is just suitable for a door leaf in an apartment. Add 200 ÷ 250 mm to the length of the door leaf.

If a door is being sheathed in a private house, which has two leaves, then to the dimensions obtained when measuring, you need to add 100 ÷ 150 mm, both in length and in width of the material.

Leatherette will also be needed to make the rollers framing the door leaf. They are strips of material that have a length equal to the height of the door and a width of 130 ÷ 170 mm. You will need three of these elements.

If the door leaf is sheathed with separate elements of leatherette, then more of it will be needed. When calculating the material in this case, it is necessary to take into account its inward bending on each individual element by 50 ÷ 100 mm on all sides.

Another option for covering with a pattern would be to remove it with separate strips of leatherette. Their number is calculated depending on the selected decorative design.

• Insulation material will help achieve thermal and sound insulation.

Sheet foam rubber is well suited for insulation and sound insulation.

For these purposes, use thick padding polyester, felt or foam rubber. The material must have a thickness of at least 10 ÷ 25 mm, depending on its density and the expected volume (relief) of the pattern, which will be created using constrictions or decorative nails.

If it will be insulated, then you need to purchase foam sheets of the required thickness.

• In the case where you plan to use nails covered with leatherette or artificial leather for decoration, you should choose the color of their heads so that the whole composition looks harmonious.

The sheathing will look more presentable if the nail heads are large enough and the same color as the entire sheathing fabric.

Another option would be nails with metal heads that match the color and texture of the material of the handles and locks.

• To finish a metal door you will need glue, since leatherette and thin layer insulation will be glued to its front side. Universal “Moment” or “88” glue is well suited for this purpose.
• To make sealing rollers, it is best to purchase ready-made round insulation with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm. It is sold by the meter in hardware stores. This material will give the roller a neat, uniform, round shape.

3. To work, you also need to prepare some tools:

• A small hammer for driving nails.
• A stapler with staples for fixing material to the surface before driving decorative nails. The optimal size of staples is 8 ÷ 10 mm.
• Scissors and a construction knife for cutting out and trimming materials.
• To dismantle locks and handles and then install them back in their original place, you will need a screwdriver or screwdriver with different attachments (bits).
• It would be a good idea to have pliers and a nail puller on hand; they can be useful for removing old trim and removing nails that have not entered the door leaf incorrectly.

4. Having purchased all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin preparatory work.

• First, you need to remove from the door everything installed on it. elements - locks, handles and viewing eye.
• If you are going to trim a door that already has old finishing material, it must be removed. The nailed material can be bent using a nail puller, separating the leatherette from the surface, and then, using the tool to hook the nails, carefully remove the canvas completely.

If the insulation is not glued to the door, the old trim will come off easily. The thin layer of material remaining on the surface does not accommodate the new finish.

• Next, some craftsmen remove the door from its hinges and, for the convenience of further work, lay it on several chairs or on enough big table. Before removing the door from its hinges, you must make lines on the door leaf along the contour of the door frame.
• In most cases, the sheathing is carried out in a vertical position, without removing it from its hinges.

The process of covering a door with leatherette

As you know, a door is usually sheathed on both sides - external and internal; there are some differences in these processes that you need to know about when starting work. In addition, there is a significant difference in the finishing technology of wooden and metal doors.

And, of course, there are different ones that also need to be considered before starting work.

Lining the inside of a wooden door

When starting work, you need to immediately pay attention to where the door opens - towards the entrance or into the apartment, since the location and size of the rollers will depend on this.

This publication will consider the option when the door opens inside the apartment.

• The first step is to install the sealing rollers. They are made from prepared leatherette strips and ready-made foam rollers or strips of other insulating material.

Leatherette is folded in half and a strip of insulation is placed inside. Then, place the roller around the perimeter of the door, so that it protrudes beyond the door leaf by 4 ÷ 7 mm, since it should cover the gap between the jamb of the door frame and the door, which is formed after it is closed. On the side where the hinges are located, the roller should completely close doorjamb. The roller is secured using stapler and staples, starting from the top right corner. From there they go to the upper left corner, then frame the sides with it. It is attached to the lower part last.

• The next step is cutting out the insulation. The size of the cut strip should be 8 ÷ 10 mm smaller than the door leaf.

It is also secured with staples to the door plane, leaving 20 ÷ 30 mm free at the edges so that decorative material can be wrapped between the insulation and the door material - leatherette.

• Next, you need to correctly place the main leatherette fabric. The main thing is to avoid distortions, otherwise the work will look sloppy.

When installing the main upholstery, it is very important not to make a mistake with the exact direction of the leatherette strip and its even tension

First, the top of the canvas is secured. It is folded under the insulation and nailed with decorative nails, placing them at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from each other.

After the top edge is secured and the correct direction is checked again, it is nailed left-hand side, and then the right one. As fastening progresses, the material is stretched. The bottom edge of the material is nailed last.

• Next, it is very important to accurately mark and cut out the holes for the locks and peephole.
• If you want to make a drawing on the surface, you first need to mark it, and then fill in decorative nails along the markings, starting from the center of the canvas. In this case, you need to try not to stretch the leatherette too much so that sagging does not appear.

Video: lesson on lining a wooden door from the inside

Wooden door - external cladding

The door trim that opens into the apartment from the entrance side is done as follows:

• Before starting work, you need to close the door and outline the door frame opening on the door leaf. This line will determine the location of the trim on the door leaf. If leatherette is nailed to the entire surface, then both the door and the lock will not close.
• The insulation is cut out 10 mm smaller than the outlined area and secured with staples.

• Next, tucking it behind the insulation, leatherette is stuffed along the marked line, in the same order as on the inside of the door - first on top, then on the sides. The bottom edge remains free for now - it will be attached later.

• In this case, the insulation bead is attached to the outside of the door frame on three sides, but it is not installed on the threshold. This element, when fixed, should cover the cracks, extending 20 ÷ 25 mm onto the door leaf. But the keyhole must be free, and this must be provided for in advance.
• The bottom roller should not be made bulky, as it will simply wear off over time and look sloppy.

It is fixed to the bottom of the door itself, and its edge should not extend beyond the marked line by a single millimeter, since the door in this case will not be able to close. When closing the door, this element should fit tightly to the threshold from above, that is, as if located on it.

• The lower part of the main leatherette sheet is pulled and nailed onto the roller nailed to the door, or, as shown in the photo, you can hide the bottom edge in the roller being secured.
• Next, holes are made in the leatherette covering for door accessories - locks, peepholes and handles. They need to be cut very carefully, without expanding more than necessary.

Video: how to sheathe the outside of a wooden door with leatherette

Metal door - leatherette finish

In recent years, apartments in high-rise buildings are increasingly installing a second metal door in addition to the wooden one. It’s good if you have the opportunity to immediately purchase an insulated one, but very often it consists only of a metal sheet and a frame made of an angle or profile pipe. In this case, the apartment owner picks up the tools and independently brings the door into proper shape.

The inner and outer sides of the metal door leaf also have their own characteristics in their lining.

Inner side of a metal door

If an unsightly metal frame without insulating and decorative materials extends into the room, this can easily be corrected by installing sheets of foam plastic of suitable thickness and covering it all with a decorative panel. The work will require materials slightly different from the lining of a wooden door.

• Foam plastic with a thickness equal to the depth of the frame frame.
• Polyurethane foam will be needed to seal the seams between the installed foam and the metal frame.
• Wooden slats for fastening to the inner sides of the frame - they will be needed as a basis for attaching the decorative panel.
• Self-tapping screws and drills for metal - they will be used to drill holes in the corners (profile pipe) for screwing wooden slats to the metal frame.
• Decorative nails for fixing leatherette to the surface of plywood.
• Wood screws for screwing plywood sheets to wooden slats.
• A sheet of plywood, in shape and area equal to the door frame, with a thickness of no more than 10 mm.
• Decorative leatherette and a thin sheet of foam rubber, 10 ÷ 15 mm thick.
• Glue or double-sided tape to secure the insulation to the plywood.

Finishing work inner surface the door goes as follows:

• Wooden slats are screwed to the inner ribs of the metal frame. Pre-drilling is required through holes through slats and metal frame elements.

• After fixing the slats, gaps may form between them and the metal sheet, which will become cold bridges, so they are sealed with polyurethane foam. It will also contribute to the rigidity of the slats.

• Next, polystyrene foam is installed between the fixed and insulated slats, around which polyurethane foam is also passed. This treatment will also help securely secure the foam in the cells and close the last paths of possible penetration of cold.

• On plywood sheet you need to mark the location of the wooden slats in the frame, since it will have to be screwed to them.
• If you need to hide the heads of the screws under the cladding, then the plywood needs to be screwed to its cladding.
• First, the sheet is screwed to the middle slats, so that all edges remain free for inserting leatherette behind them.
• Foam rubber is attached to the installed plywood with glue, or better yet, with double-sided masking tape.
• The leatherette is stretched from above, tucked over the edges of the plywood, and at the corners and along the edges in the middle of the sheet it is screwed through with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recessed into the plywood. The resulting holes can be carefully sealed with a piece of material, and a nail with a decorative head can be driven in nearby.
• Next, the leatherette is stretched and nailed along the entire perimeter. Since nails are quite difficult to drive into plywood, you need to choose durable ones made of high-quality metal that will not bend.
• Thus, decorative panel will be well attached to the frame.
• Then, you need to mark it location lock, cut the leatherette and insulation, and then carefully drill holes in the plywood.

It must be said that instead of plywood and leatherette, you can use laminated lining to decorate the inner surface of the door. It is installed from the bottom and gradually rises to the top, and the sides of the lining are covered with a special corner.

External side of a metal door

When decorating the outside of a metal door, you can use not too thick felt for laying under leatherette, which is glued to the metal surface.

• The insulation is cut smaller than the size of the door leaf by 7 ÷ 10 mm, and leatherette is larger than this size by 60 ÷ 80 mm. This extra section will be used to fold the edge to the other side of the sheet.
• Polymer glue is applied in strips to the surface of the metal sheet.
• Next, insulation is applied to it and pressed. It is necessary to give time for the glue to set and dry.
• Leatherette is stretched on top of the insulation, bent over the edges of the metal door panel and glued to the other side. It is best to use quick-drying universal glue for this purpose.

First, the top edge of the material is glued. Next, it is stretched and secured to the side parts of the door. If excess material forms on the folds, it is best to cut it off, otherwise it may interfere with the free closing of the door leaf.

If the finishing material is very dense, and the folds at the corners are too thick, then it is better to cut off some of the leatherette in these places.

• If you do all the work slowly, the door will turn out neat and respectable.

• Finally, the door frames are installed and screwed onto the door. accessories - locks with handles and a peephole, if provided for installation.

Video: finishing a metal door with leatherette

"Carriage" trim

“Carriage” lining or screed is quite popular, as the door after it looks aesthetically pleasing and respectable. However, not every apartment owner can afford this, since the work to complete it is quite painstaking and requires skill.

The “carriage” trim looks very impressive

This covering is made in two different ways - from solid material or from pre-cut pieces of leatherette. Both methods are risky, since in both the first and second options the material may be damaged and the door may not be sheathed if there is no experience in performing such “filigree” work.

...however, not everyone can do such complex work.

Therefore, for starters, you can practice and sheathe the surface of a stool in this way, for example. Any fabric can be used for training.

In order for all the work to be successful, a number of preparatory measures need to be carried out. It is very important not to neglect careful marking - only in this case will geometrically even shapes of squares or rhombuses be obtained.

• To mark, you need to take a sheet of thin plywood, the same size as the door leaf. It needs to be drawn into even squares or rectangles.
• At the intersections of straight lines, round holes are marked and then drilled so that their corners form rhombuses or squares.
• The plywood is placed on a foam mat and through the holes on it the places where decorative nails will be driven are marked.

Preliminary marking for “carriage” upholstery

• Next, the marked foam rubber is transferred to wooden base. If it is too thick, round holes may be cut into it for driving nails.
• They go around the holes or drawn circles with a stapler, nailing the insulation to the base and marking the recesses.
• The leatherette is drawn from the wrong side into even squares, which should be 8 ÷ 10 mm larger on each side than the figures drawn on the foam rubber. These extra millimeters are needed to bend the edges of the material when nailing it.
• Then, the material is cut into marked fragments, and you can begin to attach it to the door leaf.
• The pieces are placed on the foam rubber according to the markings and nailed. You can first mark them with a stapler and then nail them with decorative nails.

Each fragment is laid and fastened separately - extreme care is required

• You need to make sure that the pieces of leatherette overlap each other in one direction, otherwise the harmony of the pattern will be disrupted.
• Without the proper experience, the work will seem quite complicated and long, however, if you are patient, you can gradually complete it successfully.

It is much more difficult to remove a carriage pattern from a solid canvas, since it is very difficult to accurately measure and grab identical strips that will serve as a foam tie between the nails.

Prices for different types of door trim kits

Door trim kit

Video: one of the options for “carriage” door trim with leatherette

There are other ways of upholstering a door using thin strips of leatherette or fishing line, but in order to achieve the desired success, first in all cases it is necessary to carefully mark the door leaf.

If this work is done independently, then not only will you gain experience and skill in performing it, but you will also save a significant amount. Therefore, if you want to try yourself in this unique art of wallpaper, then it’s worth taking a risk by training first on small surfaces.

TOP 12 best manufacturers of entrance doors

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
The best budget entrance doors
#1		Became	⭐ 100 / 100
#2		Neman	⭐ 99 / 100
#3		Outpost	⭐ 98 / 100
#4		Bravo	⭐ 97 / 100
#5		Groff	⭐ 96 / 100
The best luxury entrance doors
#1		Torex	⭐ 99 / 100
#2		Elbor	⭐ 98 / 100
#3		Dierre	⭐ 97 / 100
#4		Fortus	⭐ 96 / 100
#5		Legrand	⭐ 95 / 100
#6		Bastion	⭐ 94 / 100
#7		Guardian	⭐ 93 / 100

Became

Entrance doors under the Steel brand perfectly combine affordability and excellent quality. The manufacturer managed to achieve balance in different parameters due to a complex design that ensures high strength. Reinforced doors with armored inserts are made to order. To prevent unauthorized opening, system protection is provided. The Stal model range is constantly updated. The buyer can choose powder-coated doors with wood, veneer or laminated panels. The catalog contains both classic design models and exclusive design developments.

• a wide range of;
• value for money.

budget doors are weak.

Outpost

In order to successfully compete in the domestic market, the Russian company Forpost had to launch door production in China. Since 2009, products have become in great demand among Russians, and sales volumes have reached 500,000 doors per year. In general, ordinary users are also satisfied with the product. They celebrate good quality assemblies, a rich model range, a developed service network. The doors are not without some shortcomings. The most unpleasant of them is the appearance of low-quality fakes on the market.

• affordable price for prestigious models;
• wide service network;
• rich model range.

• counterfeit products appeared;
• poor sound insulation in budget models;
• Only original fittings are suitable.

Bravo

Today the manufacturer boasts a model range of 350 units. Here the buyer has plenty to choose from. The catalog contains the most modern views doors, starting with veneered models and ending with 3D-Graf finishing. The doors also differ in design; the range includes sliding, folding and special models. Door leaves under brands such as Bravo, Bravo Lux, Groff and Belarusian Doors are also widely represented on the market. All products are made from environmentally friendly materials, it meets the stringent requirements of international standards.

• wide range of products;
• affordable price;
• a wide variety of designs and finishes.

• thin metal;
• poor sound insulation.

Entrance door Bravo

Groff

Groff entrance doors are produced domestic manufacturer"Bravo". They are a premium line. To make the canvases, thick steel and fire-resistant Knauf mineral wool are used as insulation. Structurally, the doors are reinforced with stiffening ribs and equipped with reliable locks. As a result, the product corresponds to the fourth class of burglary resistance. Entrance doors in this series are not only strong and durable. They have exceptionally high aesthetic properties. For finishing, the manufacturer used a wide range of decorative panels.

• massiveness and good quality;
• good heat and sound insulation;
• anti-removal pins.

• become warped after six months of use;
• high price.

Entrance door Groff

Torex

Torex entrance doors are manufactured in accordance with the most advanced practices. Today the company boasts a wide distribution network throughout the CIS. Production facilities are currently fully loaded, and the annual production of doors has reached 10 thousand units. The manufacturer does not stop there; new developments appear on the market with enviable consistency. It is possible to ensure maximum strength and reliability of the products through the use of two steel sheets. The role of the base is played by a one-piece bent profile 2 mm thick. Designers from Italy often take part in the design of doors.

no models available.

Dierre

The Italian door manufacturer Dierre does not need any special introduction. The products of this company are known in different countries world, as evidenced by annual sales of 200 thousand products. Production facilities have been created in Russia to supply the domestic market with products bearing the Dierre trademark. The company independently develops new designs, introducing the latest advances in the field of locking. Thus, “smart” entrance doors are equipped with a system remote control, the role of the key is played by a chip with 128-bit encryption. The distinguishing feature of the Italians is their solid design. Unique fittings are also made to match the chosen style.

• innovative approach;
• unique design;
• a large assortment.

• no choice of fittings;
• high price.

Fortus

Fortus door blocks compare favorably with their competitors in their design. They resemble the famous Lego toy, allowing the buyer to assemble it themselves suitable model. You can choose from the type of door (single or double leaf, combined), fittings, and locking mechanism. The consumer determines the number of locks, the degree of secrecy, the color of the canvas, the shape of the handles, and the method of finishing. Thanks to Fortus' extensive catalogue, the total number of variants reaches four figures. The manufacturer meets its customers halfway by producing entrance doors of non-standard sizes in accordance with the proposed project. When creating door blocks, only high-quality materials are used, as well as reliable locks from Cisa, Esety, Mul-T-Lock and Mottura.

• high-quality assembly;
• Any idea can be realized;
• smooth ride.

• no choice of fittings.

Legrand

The original quality of finishing of Legrand entrance doors was to the taste of domestic consumers. As finishing material The manufacturer used MDF panels, which are processed on modern CNC machines. To increase service life it is used polymer coating, protecting the canvas from atmospheric influences. A wide range of colors adds variety to the model range. Some collections get off natural wood, which gives the doors aristocracy and exclusivity. Buyers are given a wide choice, from basic equipment to modified equipment. For easy movement, the door hinges are equipped with bearings.

• original finish;
• diverse model range;
• hinges on bearings.

• unreliable corrosion protection;
• poor sound insulation.

Bastion

One of the flagships in the field of entrance door production is the Bastion brand. The product is made according to a standard scheme, first a frame is formed from a metal profile square section. Then steel sheets are welded to it. The emptiness is filled basalt wool, which, in addition to good insulating properties, has fire resistance. When choosing a model, the buyer is given the opportunity to independently determine the type of anti-burglary system and anti-removal hinges. The finish can also be changed according to client requests. Glass or wooden elements, as well as forged inserts, can decorate the door.

• high build quality;
• wide range in different price segments;
• beautiful finish.

• unreliable fittings;
• not the most efficient service.

Even in ancient times, people came up with a device that blocked their homes. Initially, the front door was needed to protect against cold, rain and wild animals. But over time, the function of the door has expanded a little, and today a good entrance door not only performs a security function, but also combines with the interior of an apartment or house.

Tidying up the front door with your own hands using dermantine is not such a difficult task, especially since it is a very affordable material.

Peculiarities

Any door, even a very old one, can be transformed by upholstering it with dermantine. This material has its own characteristics and advantages.

The word "dermantin" has foreign origin. The literal translation means “material imitating skin”, since the root of this word is “derma”, which means “skin” in Latin. The letter “n” crept into it by accident to make the pronunciation more harmonious. But this phonetic distortion does not change its properties at all, and most people know this material precisely in this sound.

The basis of leatherette is cotton fabric with nitrocellulose coating, applied to one or both sides of the material. Leatherette has many features due to which it is most often chosen as an upholstery material.

First of all, it has a fairly long service life. The presentable appearance and properties of this upholstery material remain unchanged for 10 years.

Leatherette is a very moisture-resistant material. Due to its composition, it does not absorb moisture at all, so insulation and other waterproofing materials used together with leatherette as upholstery do not change their properties.

Leatherette is not subject to rotting processes. Its composition prevents the proliferation of various microorganisms. It also does not fade in the sun, as it is resistant to ultraviolet rays. This quality allows the upholstery of doors located not only in indoors, but also installed on open areas without fear of changing appearance.

This material is also resistant to temperature changes. At sub-zero temperature Neither its properties nor its appearance change. Cleaning the surface of this material does not require any specialized means, regular soap and water is enough. But it is worth noting that it is quite stable when exposed to many cleansers. Do not also forget that covering doors with dermantine solves the problems of heat and sound insulation of a room.

Pattern options

Various designs are often made on the surface of a door covered with leatherette. To do this, use special decorative nails and cords made from the same material as the upholstery itself. In order to make any drawing, You must first put marks on the surface in the right places, and only then nail the nails. Thanks to point pressing, contours will appear on the surface of the upholstered door, which form a pattern. In addition to decorative nails, cords are often used; they are clamped with nails and pulled between them, resulting in a textured pattern.

Most often, designs can be made in the form of rhombuses, which can have different sizes and location. Diamonds same size can be concentrated in the center or distributed over the entire surface of the door. Sometimes the design combines rhombuses of different sizes.

On a door upholstered in leatherette, you can apply a pattern not only in the form of rhombuses, but also in the form of other geometric shapes: circles, rectangles, squares.

You can decorate the door without using cords. To do this, nails are stuffed onto the surface of the canvas in the intended order. There can be a small number or a lot of them, they can be located both around the perimeter of the door and in the center of the structure.

Decoration of an iron door is carried out before the door upholstery. Leatherette and insulation are connected with special buttons in the right places. Today you can purchase a ready-made set of special devices for decorating a door in the store. With its help, you can create an unusual and beautiful design on the door leaf, however, the cost of such a set is slightly higher than ordinary nails and cord from leftover material.

How to sheathe it yourself?

In order to properly upholster a door with your own hands, you first need to purchase the necessary material and tools. There are two types of doors - either metal or wooden structures. Depending on their type, the required amount of material is selected. In order not to make a mistake with the footage, you need to first measure the length and width of the door leaf and based on the obtained values, purchase material. Wooden structures are upholstered with a piece of leatherette not exceeding the area of ​​the door leaf by more than 15 cm on each side. And for metal doors, a margin of 10 cm is enough.

To upholster a wooden door, in addition to covering the main surface, additional elements such as rollers are usually used. They are nailed around the perimeter of the door leaf and serve not only as an additional decorative element, but also cover the gaps between the door leaf and the frame. As a rule, these strips are prepared in advance from leatherette and insulating material. The width of leatherette strips varies between 10-15 cm, and the length depends on the size of the door. Strips of insulating material should be slightly smaller in width (8-10 cm).

When selecting insulation, you need to take into account not only the price, but also the service life of the material. The most common material is foam rubber. It is affordable, and its service life varies between 13-15 years. You can also choose batting, which has a slightly higher cost compared to foam rubber. Its service life does not exceed 30 years and, in addition, it has significant weight, so it can significantly burden the structure of the door leaf.

The most modern insulation is insulation tape. The service life of this material is within 60-75 years. Very often, insulation tape is used together with foam rubber. Thanks to this combination, the entrance door even better protects the room from the penetration of noise and cold, and also when decorating it, a beautiful relief surface is formed.

In addition to materials, you need to prepare tools. Scissors are needed to cut the material. Sharp knife will be needed to remove excess insulating materials. Screwdrivers and pliers will be needed in the process of dismantling locks and other work.

Nails will be required to attach the material to wooden structure. Using a stapler, the door is sheathed with insulating material. Glue will be required to bond the metal surface with insulation and leatherette. Using decorative nails, a design will be applied to the surface.

Step by step guide

If you have the necessary materials and tools, you can begin the process itself. Regardless of the type of door, some additional measures need to be taken. As a rule, for convenience, the door leaf is removed from its hinges, but if you experienced master, then the door can be reconstructed without removing it. Then the lock and peephole are dismantled. Next, the door is cleaned of the old coating (if it was present there). Now you can begin to reconstruct the canvas.

Algorithm for covering the inner side:

• First you need to attach the prepared strips for rollers to the door leaf. To do this, they are placed face down and secured on all sides of the canvas with a stapler. If the door has a padlock, then you need to nail it from its location.
• If the design provides a mortise version, then you need to start from the top corner (from the hinge side). The protrusion of the strips should be no more than 4 cm.

• Prepared strips of foam rubber are fixed to the surface of the canvas. Now you need to tuck the edges of the leatherette and secure it to the surface. The roller should not protrude beyond the edge of the door by more than 3 cm.
• Then you need to cut out foam rubber or other insulating material. It should fit well between the rollers, the space on each side is 1 cm.
• Now, using a stapler, we attach the insulating material to the front door.

• We nail the prepared piece of leatherette. To do this, you need to tuck its edges by about 5-6 cm and attach it to the surface of the door. The folded edges should overlap the roller slightly. The decorative nail must be nailed no more than 7 mm from the edge. Similarly, we nail the second nail in the other upper corner, having previously stretched the canvas.
• Next, we nail the nails in the upper part of the canvas in increments of 10-12 cm, gradually going down one side. We proceed in the same way with the second side and the bottom of the door leaf.
• After securing the last nail around the perimeter, you can begin decorating the surface.
• The final step is to install the locks and handles.

Exterior finishing steps:

• First, we close the door tightly and, depending on the location of the door frame, draw a projection on the door surface. This must be done so that when covering the surface you do not go beyond the drawn line.
• Now you can attach the roller to the bottom of the door leaf. It should fit snugly against the threshold when the door is closed.
• Then you should make rollers for the left, right and top parts, but they need to be secured to the door frame. On the side where the hinges are located, it is installed flush with the jamb, and in the opposite and upper part it needs to be pulled out a few mm (depending on the cracks).
• Now you can install and secure the main canvases.

Metal door upholstery method:

• First you need to apply glue to the door leaf.
• Then you need to attach a piece of insulating material to the prepared surface and press it. We cut off the excess material with a knife, not forgetting to cut out the holes for the lock, handle and eye.
• Now we apply glue to the foam rubber and glue the leatherette, not forgetting to tuck the edges of the material.

Upholstering the front door yourself is not such a difficult task; the main thing is to take into account all the nuances associated with the design of the door.

What to paint with?

Over time, a door covered with leatherette may lose its attractive appearance. If the resulting abrasions are local in nature and there are not many of them, then there is no point in changing the leatherette; it can be restored using special paints.

Dyeing leatherette is a completely inexpensive and affordable method., with which you can tidy up a door upholstered with it. The main thing is to choose the appropriate option.

You can paint over damaged areas using acrylic paints. They adhere perfectly to a wide variety of surfaces, including leatherette. You can use special paints for leather. Due to their composition, these paints remain on the surface for quite a long time, do not fade or peel off over time.

In order to more accurately select a color that is closest to the original material, it is better to purchase a set of paints. Mixing colors will allow you to choose the closest possible shade.

To properly paint a leatherette door, you must first prepare the surface. First, clean it of dirt and dust, and then treat the area to be painted with alcohol. Now we prepare the desired shade. You can mix shades on a special palette, or you can take a sheet of foil and apply paints to it. To make working with paints easier, you need to add a little acetone.

Now you can start painting. The paint is applied either with a brush or with a foam sponge. 15-20 minutes after applying the paint, when the first layer is completely dry, you can apply the second.