Do-it-yourself boat, motorboat, yacht, tips and drawings. Wooden boat DIY boat step by step instructions

Fiberglass is the only material that allows you to create a shape of any complexity yourself. Independent design of the bottom makes it possible to equip it with steppers of any configuration. Can be achieved maximum efficiency performance of the vessel, placing the redans in the most suitable places. In addition, the design of a homemade boat will reflect the character of its owner.

There is a manufacturing method homemade boat made of plywood and fiberglass, when plastic is used only for the outer covering of the boat. But this technology does not justify itself. The layer of plywood lying under the plastic quickly picks up moisture, which increases the weight of the vessel. Plywood quickly degrades due to the influence of microorganisms and the delamination process, because plywood is significantly inferior in strength to plastic.

How to make a boat? By carefully following all the rules, even a beginner can complete this task. Technological process simple and budget friendly. The ship's hull is created by impregnated polymer composition reinforcing filler.

Materials and drawing

Raw materials used as reinforcing filler in the manufacture of the frame:

• body base, sides – roving fiberglass fabrics TP-07, TP-03, TP-056;
• local strengthening of individual sections - structural fiberglass fabrics T-11, T-13.

Fiberglass can be different types by type of weaving, thread size. Mostly they choose “oblique” or satin weaving. The threads must be twisted. The material is sold in the form of sheets, rolls, tape.

Fiberglass fabric is sold impregnated with a greasy composition. In order for the fabric to be better saturated with the binder, the sizing should be removed using gasoline, white spirit or acetone. The fat-free fabric is dried in air for about 2-4 hours.

To glue the reinforcing material, you will need resin. There are three types of resins used in the shipbuilding industry: epoxy, vinyl ester, and polyester. The most important characteristics of resins when building a fiberglass boat from any type of fiber are adhesion and impregnation.

A cheap option is to use polyester resin, which allows you to create a single piece of fiberglass in one operation. You can use TM Ashland resin. To create a decorative body coating with protective properties, you will need a gelcoat. You will also need plywood at least 1.2 cm thick that is moisture resistant.

Making a boat is impossible without a competent drawing. The design of a future watercraft can be done using the AutoCAD program. First, a 3D model is created, then diagrams of frames and patterns are created. Ready-made drawings are taken from specialized sites on the Internet. Now you can start making a fiberglass boat with your own hands.

Matrix

Directly manufacturing process Making a fiberglass boat with your own hands begins with building a matrix. First, a frame is made on which the frames are attached. Next, they should be covered with twelve-millimeter plywood, trying to achieve as smooth a surface as possible. The edges of the boat are made more rigid; a double layer of plywood is used for the sides.

Now you need to take a long time and carefully level the sides using polyester putty. It is necessary to eliminate all errors so that the design of the boat is stable. You can work with special template spatulas.

At the stage of matrix alignment, it is possible to provide such an important part of the boat as the keel. It ensures smooth movement of a rowing or motor boat, eliminating agility. A homemade keel made of wood is filled with polyester resin.

By marking, all errors in the constructed matrix are identified. Using sandpaper, the edges are smoothed and smoothed, giving the future vessel symmetry. The finished form, free of dirt, is degreased, and an anti-adhesive compound is applied to it in 4 layers. It is necessary as a separator to prevent the resin from sticking to the surface of the mold.

Gel coat coating

After the wax layer has dried, a gelcoat is applied, which is the outer surface of the boat. This is a crucial moment on which depends appearance vessel. Gelcoat provides protection against scratches, ultraviolet radiation, and abrasions. It must be applied, achieving uniform coverage, avoiding bubbles and drips. Now you can begin laying the cut parts on a completely dry layer of gelcoat.

Case manufacturing

Fabric cutting is carried out by cutting off sheets corresponding to the length of the body. Sheets for laying along the waterline and keel should not have joints. If there is an impact on an obstacle, the material in this place can lift up and then peel off. Allowances should be left when cutting along the edges for overlaying. To sew pieces of fiberglass to obtain the required length, you can use glass threads pulled from the edge of the material, or linen threads soaked in drying oil.

The fiberglass layer is evenly coated with a binder polymer resin. To do this, it is recommended to use a stitching roller. Air bubbles must be avoided, since voids remaining in some places weaken the structure. Next, the next layer of fiberglass is laid according to a similar pattern. Up to five layers of fiberglass can be applied. To obtain a more beautiful top layer, it is recommended to use a special “top” fiberglass.

Power frame and floor

To strengthen the body it is necessary to lay three wooden bars along the mold, which is then covered with two layers of fiberglass. The frames are installed every 30 cm, also applying fiberglass to them.

It is necessary to create a double sealed bottom, making the boat unsinkable even if it capsizes. The floor is sheathed plywood sheets with moisture-resistant properties. The finished floor is covered with a couple of layers of reinforcing fabric, necessarily impregnated with polymer resin. The composition is allowed to dry completely.

Final stage

All that remains is to remove the finished boat from the mold, trim the allowances, sand the surface, mount the roof and timber to protect the sides. You can also do additional elements: seats, oar mounts, drawers. Using fiberglass, you can make any necessary accessories for the vessel with your own hands. After this, they begin painting.

Using a similar method, you can make your own fiberglass boats. Of course, the drawing and design of a boat is more complex than a boat, and more effort will be required. But the cost of a homemade product will cost half as much as the same finished vessel.

Repair

Repairing a fiberglass boat or boat is required when typical damage occurs:

• defects in the decorative layer;
• cracks in the body;
• holes and half-holes;
• divergence of angles;
• shells.

Basic materials for repair: fiberglass, epoxy resins. When starting repairs, it is recommended to place the damaged area closer to the horizontal level. The surface must be clean, dry, and free of grease. A hairdryer, technical or household, may be required. Before starting to seal defects, the fiberglass fabric must be degreased, rinsed in a solvent, and dried thoroughly.

During emergency repairs, do not dry it over a fire, as soot will form. Before laying on the damaged area, the fiberglass fabric is soaked in a diluted compound (polyester or epoxy resin), and then pressed out by pulling it between two sticks. The repair area must be cleaned with coarse sandpaper down to the fiberglass layer, making it slightly terry.

Repairing damage

Minor damage in the form of scratches is repaired with epoxy resin without filler or primer. A through-type scratch is removed by puttying with a compound with filler, after which the treated area remains to be sanded and painted over.

Small cracks can be simply covered with epoxy resin. If the body is cracked, the decorative layer down to the fiberglass is removed from both sides of the damage. After drying, it is filled with epoxy resin. To do this, press on each side of the crack, allowing it to open, and coat it. After this, the edges are combined and fixed. A strip of fiberglass fabric impregnated with the compound is placed on top, on both sides. After hardening, the repair area is sanded, covered with a layer of resin, sanded again and painted.

A half-hole is characterized by a break with a remaining piece of plastic. If the break is small, then you need to set the protruding piece back. To do this, it is necessary to treat all surfaces with the compound. Using a stop and a mallet, the piece is placed in place, with a bulge formed on one side and a dent on the other. Impregnated fiberglass fabric is placed on the convex area and secured with a weight. After polymerization, the half-hole is puttied with resin and filler. Further actions, grinding - laying the impregnated sheet, are repeated twice. Then sanding and painting are carried out.

The hole is sealed using a foam punch, preferably along the outer contours. Several patches are made from thick fiberglass fabric with tolerances of 3 to 5 mm, so that the thickness of the package corresponds to the thickness of the body. After installing the punch, the patches are glued. The algorithm for further actions is the same as in previous cases.

The discrepancy between the corners is eliminated in the same way as sealing cracks, but fiberglass is used in the form of a tape. The sink is the most unpleasant type of damage. Sometimes this is a manufacturing defect. It can form between the layers due to the ingress of water, which pushes the layers apart winter time. To repair, you will need to open the sink by drilling a hole until it enters the cavity.

Then a wide incision (up to 5 mm) is made at the site of its largest size. The opened cavity is dried with a hairdryer and filled with compound using a syringe. The processed shell is clamped into a press. Then the usual algorithm of puttying, sanding and painting is performed.

Fiberglass is an excellent material for the manufacture of boats and boats, available for use. Self-made fiberglass boats are durable and strong, easy to repair. It should be taken into account that the components of the materials used in the work are not safe for health. It is necessary to work in rubber gloves, protective masks, goggles, and in a well-ventilated place.

One of the most common materials for building a boat with your own hands is fiberglass. Using such raw materials, you can independently construct a boat quite large sizes: from 7.5 to 18 m in length.

General information

One of the most common models of boats made from fiberglass material is the WaveRunner-285 boat. It is considered a full-fledged planing vessel, which is quite suitable for walking on the sea or tourism. The ship, which is characterized by the fact that it has an increased freeboard, as well as a fairly large width, is also convenient in that its bow can accommodate a comfortable salon with an adjacent toilet and galley. In the stern of the boat, you can make a double cabin with your own hands, the location of which will be located strictly under the cockpit. The unit control department will be located above the engine compartment, and it will also be protected from wind and water splashes by inclined glass.

Boat power

When equipping a boat with your own hands, you need to consider which engine will be installed on it later. This particular model is designed to install either one or two motors. However, it is important to consider here that the total power for normal functioning the object should be in the range from 250 to 500 l. With. They must also have a direct reverse gearbox, which will allow them to reach a speed of 15-30 knots, which in km/h ranges from 28 to 56. In addition, the vessel may also have propulsion systems or additional outboard motors.

It is worth noting that building a boat with your own hands saves from 50 to 75% of material resources from the amount that would have been spent if the unit had been purchased at a shipyard and not built independently. It is also worth noting that the given technology for building a small vessel is not the last word in shipbuilding. This is just a practice-tested, established method that will allow you to construct an acceptable fiberglass boat with your own hands.

Beginning of work

Starting the construction of a small fiberglass boat is no different from building from any other material. The first step is to lay out the theoretical frames, as well as the contour of the stem, on a plywood panel or on a sheet of cardboard. The breakdown should be carried out in the actual size of these parts.

It is also important to note that the board or plaza on which the layout is made must have a width corresponding to the width of the boat, plus 300 mm. The height of this object must be 400 mm higher than the expected height of the housing. Experts recommend first creating boat drawings on which all necessary details with dimensions indicated. This is done in order to avoid mistakes during the manufacturing process.

Another one important detail- the upper ends of all frames must be extended to the height that is shown as a horizontal line on the plaza. It is perpendicular to the DP line and is called the Shergel line.

Assembling patterns

When carrying out work on plasma marking of patterns, it is very important to take into account such factors as the thickness of the slats and the thickness sheet metal, which will be used as cladding inner surface matrices. In other words, when drawing up a drawing of a boat and subsequent assembly, it is necessary to set aside from the theoretical line of each of the frames the distance inward that will correspond to the total thickness of the slats and sheet metal. It is this marking option that should be used when cutting out patterns and their further assembly.

The individual parts of the transverse patterns must be connected using materials such as linings and brackets made from pieces of plywood with a thickness of 8 to 10 mm. This indicator is suitable for a boat whose length will be around 10 m. It is best to glue the linings to the patterns, and then additionally screw them with screws or nail them.

How to make a boat: plating and matrix

Next, before assembling the existing patterns into a matrix, it is necessary to attend to the creation of the outer cladding of the structure. In order to create the most comfortable conditions when working with external cladding boats, it is necessary to provide a part that ensures the tilt of the matrix on both sides of the ship.

If you do everything correctly, you will be able to work while standing on the floor next to the workpieces. The matrix itself, in any case, must have a very strong and rigid structure. This is necessary so that during the construction of the unit the shape of its body is not distorted.

How to make a boat with a strong matrix? Large structures are assembled from longitudinal beams, which will represent the horizontal base of the boat. Inside the resulting frame, it is necessary to install walkways that will facilitate the work of gluing the body. After the longitudinal beams, which are the base of the matrix, have been installed, the future position of all the patterns is marked on them, and a steel wire is stretched along the beams, which will be a string indicating the vessel’s DP.

Installation of patterns

It is recommended to start the process of installing blanks from the midship frame. Before securely fastening this element, it is very important to make sure that the pattern is strictly vertical and perpendicular to the DP. It is attached to the beams that serve as the base. After all the other workpieces have been mounted, the stand located in the transom DP has been installed, and all the elements have been braced with braces to avoid any movement, you can proceed to the stage of covering the inner surface of the matrix using longitudinal slats.

To perform this task, material with a thickness of 12 to 15 mm and a width of 50 mm is most often used. To equip the bottom of the boat, it is better to use slats with the same thickness, but greater width - up to 100 mm.

Aluminum water boat

The low cost of raw materials, as well as lathes, has led to the fact that many owners have decided to independently manufacture certain parts and elements from metal. It is believed that the production of aluminum boats is one of the the most complex tasks, which is practically impossible, but at the factory they are created without difficulty, since they have special tools for this. However, this is not so.

The most difficult thing in making this type of boat yourself is making its pattern from metal. This term refers to the marking of exactly how to cut necessary details made of aluminum.

When making such a unit from metal, the whole process comes down to assembling a kind of construction set. This is true if the blanks are not cut out yourself, since this still requires a lot of skill and high-precision equipment, but a computerized model of the boat is purchased. Yes, the cost of such a model will also be quite high, but if you compare it with buying a ready-made vessel, you will see significant savings.

High-speed small craft

Another option for a vessel that you can make yourself is a speedboat. Enough an important part in the construction of this type of unit is the choice of engine and its location. This part can be placed in the cockpit of the vessel, and the part that will protrude can be covered with a hood.

This definition of the place was not chosen by chance. It will expand the range of devices suitable for installation. You can use engines from cars such as Zhiguli or Volga. In addition to these models, it is quite possible to install a diesel engine from a tractor. However, this is only possible if additional hot air removal is provided. You can use a fake chimney for this.

It is also possible to install motors with air cooled. Since a high-speed boat must have good stability when moving quickly through the water, it is recommended to place this part closer to the center of gravity of the entire vessel. The greater weight of the engine will give greater stability to the entire structure.

Do you want to assemble a boat with your own hands? This is a tourist boat () simple in design, but to build it you need some experience.

The dimensions of the boat allow you to accommodate 6 people in three cabins, one of them is located in the stern of the boat, since the length of the boat hull is 8.5 m. To place a double berth in the aft cabin, it is necessary to make an “inset” into the cockpit. And the partition above the legs lying in the berth serves as a seat in the cockpit. You can also place the berth across the boat right at the transom; the width of the boat allows this to be done But due to the pitching and roll of the ship, this arrangement is not very convenient for passengers. The engine can be placed in the cockpit by covering the protruding part with the hood. This engine arrangement will give you freedom in engine choice. You can install an engine from a Volga or Moskvich car with its original gearbox. You can also install a diesel engine from a tractor if you install a hot air outlet - as an option, install a fake one

The best option is a diesel engine; of course, it is not easy to find a marine diesel engine, and they have a considerable weight. But they have a reverse gearbox and can be cooled with sea water. A diesel engine from a tractor is easier to find, but you will have to install a reverse gearbox on it and change the cooling system.

More affordable car engines, but they are less economical. If you modify the gearbox and cooling system, you can easily install them on a boat that you build with your own hands. 50 - 60% of the engine power is more than enough, while the speed will be 15 -17 km/h and the fuel consumption will be approximately 0.5-0.6 kg/km. The contours of the boat are sharp-cheeked and they are pinched for swimming at a relative speed - Froude number Fr = v: vgL = 0.40 - 0.57. The transom is partially immersed in the water, which gives a smooth flow around the boat's hull without strong turbulence at low speeds and stalling at maximum speed when the boat enters planing mode. If you have a diesel engine with a power of approximately 20 hp and with a gearbox that provides a propeller shaft speed of approximately 1000 rpm. It will be

the best option

And it protects the steering wheel from damage if you run aground. If you want to simplify the design of the steering wheel, then place it on the transom. Then you will not need a helmport device with an oil seal, and direct cable wiring will become easier.

Good stability and high freeboard allow the boat to withstand waves of up to 3 points. Do you want to make your boat flood-proof? Make the cockpit platform watertight, and provide 150mm high coamings in the engine hatch opening and cutouts in the door bulkheads.

Since the cockpit platform is higher than the waterline, install drain scuppers to remove water that enters the cockpit overboard.

The engine installed in the cockpit is very easy to service, just open the hood. Separate the fuel tanks from the engine using longitudinal bulkheads. The compartments where the tanks are located must have good ventilation.

Option number two is diagonal double cladding with planks 7-8 mm thick. You can use short planks, unlike the first option. Select short boards without knots or other defects. Fit and secure at a 45 degree angle from the keel and bilge stringers to the bottom and from the bilge stringers and fender to the sides. After laying the first layer of sheathing, plan it from the outside and lay thin layer fabric on paint for sealing. And cover it with a second layer of planks, but at an angle of 90 degrees to the planks of the first covering. Rivet the strips of both layers together. Careful protection of the ends of the keel strips and stringers from moisture is necessary. And installation is very labor-intensive. To ensure the rigidity of the skin, install bottom and side stringers, which divide the skin panels into sections of equal width.

Important! Before you start making frame frames and other parts, work out the installation of exactly the engine you will install. To do this, you can draw a longitudinal section of the boat’s stern on a scale of 1:5 or in full size and put a tracing paper there with the dimensions of the engine and reverse device, also on a scale of 1:5 or in full size. Make sure the propeller shaft line is acceptable. The position of the aft end of the shaft is the starting point. Its location is where the propeller shaft disk is located. Vins have a diameter of 400 – 420 mm.

The engine tilt angle is no more than 12 degrees, which ensures normal work carburetor and lubrication system. Then, on the same scale, draw 2-3 cross sections housings. This is necessary to clarify the location of the engine relative to the housing and clarify the desired height longitudinal foundation beams and how they are spaced from the DP (indicated “A” on the drawings of the frames). Typically, the engine is secured to the foundation using traverses - these are transverse steel beams. This installs the engine as low as possible and allows you to maintain the required height of the longitudinal engine support bars. Engine support bars must be securely attached to

longitudinal connections boats Sivuch 1 – outboard ladder: 2 – mooring cleat: 3 – tubular handrail for fencing: 4 – flashlight for distinctive light: 5 – wooden handrail: 6 – porthole on the starboard side: 7 – stack for the masthead light: 8 – porthole for the toilet : 9 – ventilation head: 10 – emergency hatch: 11 – bow railing: 12 – anchor rope roller: 13 – bale strap: 14 round porthole: 15 – porthole for the front wall of the wheelhouse: 16 – neck for filling fuel tanks; 17 – engine casing: 18 – locker – seat: 19 – cockpit: 20 – enclosure from the sleeping cabin; 21 – sliding hatch cover 22 – life ring: 23 – platform for mooring and swimming

Boat layout: 1 – steering device: 2 – tiller compartment: 3 – sleeping cabin: 4 – sliding hatch: 5 – berth enclosure in the cockpit: 6 – cockpit: 7 – engine hood: 8 – salon: 9 – dish shelf: 10 – folding seat for the driver: 11 – handle for driving the throttle: 12 – reverse control handle: 13 – cabinet door: 14 – bow cockpit: 15 – folding hatch: 16 – shelf: 17 – forepeak: 18 – locker: 19 - payol board 20 mm: 20 - driver's footrest: 21 - cupboard for provisions: 22 - space for a trash can: 23 - cupboard for provisions and dishes: 24 - engine: 25 - stern tube: 26 - seat: 27 - double berth: 28 – fuel tank: 29 – gas stove: 30 – sink: 31 – shelf for navigation: 32 – table for maps: 33 – net for personal belongings: 34 – bunk: 35 – shelf in the forepeak: 36 – toilet pumped with sea water: 37 – sofa: 38 – table: 39 – battery: 40 – chest of drawers: 41 – locker: 42 – painting: 43 – door to the cabin: 44 – for dishes: 45 – ladder: 46 – niche under mooring lines and fenders: 47 – door to the salon: 48 – porthole: 49 – folding seat: 50 – removable flooring over the tank: 51 – engine compartment; 52 – porthole: 53 – forepeak door: 54 – door: 55 – driver’s seat, partition: 56 – helm: 57 – porthole: 58 – porthole: 59 – back of the sofa: 60 – niche for dishes: 61 – shelf for clothes: 62 – wardrobe: 63 – door to the toilet: 64 – porthole: 65 – washbasin: 66 – porthole: 67 – additional portholes.

Longitudinal section of the boat Sivuch 1 - deckhouse coaming made of 8 mm thick plywood: 2 - deckhouse roof 6 mm thick plywood: 3 - internal lining for the cockpit 4 mm thick plywood: 4 - seat on the enclosure from the sleeping cabin 6 mm thick plywood: 5 - layouts for oak coaming 25 x 12: 6 – strapping for coaming 15 x 25: 7 – stand for coaming 25 x30: 8 – Carling tube 25 x 50: 9 – beam for cutting 22 x 30: 10 – plexiglass 6-8 mm thick : 11 – post 25 x 30: 12 – rib to increase rigidity 25 x 60: 13 – carlengs 25 mm thick: 14 – oak coaming lining 8 x 90: 15 – DP post 50 x 35: 16 – side stringer 20 x 60: 17 – side sheathing made of plywood 8 mm thick: 18 – fender: 19 – shelf made of plywood 6 mm thick: 20 – stem: 21 – glued from slats 6 x 80 buttons: 22 – bilge stringer 20 x 60: 23 – keel 40 x 180 : 24 - bottom plating made of plywood 8-10 mm thick: 25 - foundation for the engine stringer 50 mm thick: 26 - beam for the foundation 50 mm thick: 27 - fin assembled from beams 75 x75: 28 - deadwood pipe: 29 - berth wall made of plywood 6 mm thick: 30 – bracket mounting pad 6 mm thick: 31 – starknitsa-helmport: 32 – filler – cushion for various things: 33 – deckhouse bimps 25 x 30: 34 – deckhouse coaming, 25X60: 35 – fender beam 30 x60: 36 – deck stringer 24x40: 37 – beams 22X50: 38 – midships, 180X28: 39 – bottom stringer 20x60: 41 – platform decking made of plywood 8 mm thick: 42 – plywood floor on both sides 6 mm thick: 43 – sheathing bottoms made of grooved slats 14 mm thick: 44 - grooved slats 12x35: 45 - floortimbers 22x70: 46 - plywood bracket 6mm thick: 47 - bookcase filler: 48 - toptimbers 22x70: 49 - side cladding made of boards: 50 - collar made of oak or ash: 51 – decking made of plywood 9 mm thick: 52 – decorative strip 25x30: 53 – shelf 25 mm thick: 54 – glazing bead 20x20:55 – handrail made of blank 28x65: 56 – oak trim 16x35: 57 – strip made of of stainless steel 2.5x25: 58 - fiberglass on epoxy resin: 59 - oak bead 20x20: 60 - coaming trim 25x30: 61 - layout 8x40: 62 - bulkhead sp. - block 30x30: 70 – hatch coaming for the engine compartment: 71 – bulkhead for the engine compartment: 72 – rack 20x25 for the bulkhead: 73 – block 35x69 for the door frame: 74 – floor 20 mm thick: 75 – support rail: 76 – panel for Bloons: 77 - Reika for bulkhead: 78 - stagnation 12x12: 79 - Reika 12x12: 80 - BIMS 20x80: 81 - Migotor Δ = 20: 82 - Topimbers and Flortimers 20x70: 83 - Flortimbers Space 1, 3 20x80: 84 - Stracks of Disruption in the closet 30x30: 85 – bulkhead decorator 20x70: 86 – frame bulkhead beam 3 20x180: 87 – rack for the latrine bulkhead: 88 – oak layout 8x28: 89 – support rail for the bunk: 90 – bracket for tying the bunks δ=4: 91 - bracket of the end wall of the shelf δ = 6: 9 2 - beam frame 1 25x80: 93 - transom floor 28x150: 94 - stand 28x30: 95 - berth support shelf: 96 - bracket δ = 6: 97 - stand for transom 40x150: 98 - transom lining made of plywood 9 mm thick: 99 – stand 30x50: 100 – parts for transom trim δ = 25

Sections of frames and bulkhead structures

Bulkheads and transom

The stem and keel assembly: 1 - upper part of the stem: 2 - button: 3 - boat keel: 4 - oak trim 150x15: 5 - lath and oak 50x15

Instructions

First, decide on the construction technology. There are two main methods: in the first, a body kit is first made and covered with thin plywood. Then the finished body is covered with several layers of fiberglass. When using the second option, a matrix is ​​made, in which the body is then glued.

The first option is suitable for those who build in a single copy. The disadvantage of this method is that the finished body requires quite labor-intensive processing. The second option requires the expenditure of material and time, but at the same time allows you to obtain a body with an ideal surface that only needs painting. This method is advisable to use for small-scale production, since the matrix remains unharmed and ready for the construction of the next boat.

Having chosen the first method, create, according to the drawings, a set of hulls for the future boat. If this is your first self-build, choose a set of ready-made drawings - this will save you from many problems. It’s worth building a boat according to your own drawings only after gaining some experience.

When building a boat, use only stainless fasteners - brass or bronze screws and nails. The fiberglass fabric used must be annealed blowtorch(but don’t overcook!) until slightly brown. Without such treatment, the fiberglass fabric will be poorly impregnated with the polyester or epoxy resins and the body will turn out to be very fragile.

When choosing a resin, remember that polyester resins are easier to work with than epoxy resins, but the strength of polyester resins is less. To glue the first layers of sheathing you will need glass matting - that is, coarsely woven fiberglass. For the outer layers of the body, use satin-weave fiberglass fabric. At the very top there is fiberglass mesh - a thin, sparsely woven fabric that is well impregnated with resin.

Sand and polish the finished body. This work should begin before the resin has completely hardened. Be sure to wear a respirator, use electric tools– it is very difficult to process a large body by hand.

If you choose the second option, first make a matrix. To do this, you will need to create a set that is the reverse of the hull of the future boat. Use polyester resins, the thickness of the matrix walls should not be less than 8 millimeters. The matrix must have stiffening ribs so that it does not “lead”. Remember that the quality of the future boat hull depends on the quality of the matrix surface.

When gluing the body in the matrix, start by applying a separating layer - without it, the body will stick tightly to the matrix. Use floor polish, Vaseline, or wax as a separating layer. After its application, the formation of the boat hull begins. The decorative (painted) layer is applied first; its thickness is 0.4-0.6 mm. Then layers of fiberglass mesh, fiberglass and fiberglass mats are laid in succession. All layers are carefully rolled with a roller to the surface of the matrix.

After forming the body, it is necessary to install (glue in) the internal kit. Do this directly in the matrix, this method will avoid deformations. Make the deck in a separate matrix and connect it to the hull or glue it in place. A body correctly made in the matrix does not require additional finishing or painting.