Before you do scaffolding with your own hands, evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of this structure. Although such homemade auxiliary structures at a construction site help save money, their safety and practicality remain in question. In our article we will tell you how to make wooden scaffolding and carry out comparative analysis traditional inventory forests and these structures.
In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding
Construction methods
By making temporary structures yourself, you can build several types of auxiliary products, which will differ both in purpose and in the materials used for production. Depending on the area of use, homemade scaffolding is divided into:
- structures for repair and finishing work with a small load on the flooring;
- products to perform masonry work with high load capacity.
Depending on the materials, handmade woods are:
- metal;
- wooden.
We will consider the manufacturing process of each type of scaffolding separately. But in any case, the greatest attention must be paid to the safety of auxiliary structures. If the scaffolding manufacturing process was carried out according to all the rules, then there is no doubt about the reliability and functionality of the scaffolding. Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, you need to study regulatory documentation, because this type of temporary structures must necessarily comply with GOSTs and SNiPs.
Of course, you can buy homemade scaffolding, but this way you cannot be 100% sure of the quality of the materials used to assemble the scaffolding, their reliability and compliance with the requirements of current regulatory documents.
DIY scaffolding made of wood
The most important thing when making wooden scaffolding- this is maintaining verticality rack elements or desired angle tilt in the manufacture of low structures from boards. In any case, when making scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you must adhere to this rule. This is the only way you can be sure of the stability and safety of the structure.
In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards
To make vertical load-bearing elements of such structures, it is better to take boards 4 cm thick. But when using 100x100 mm timber, the structure will be much stronger and more reliable. To ensure that the product is stable and cannot accidentally fold during operation, it is better to use double diagonal braces in each span. It is better to mount diagonals so that they are fixed to several racks and to the walls of the object at once.
Homemade wooden scaffolding has one undeniable advantage - the scaffolding material can be used for other purposes after dismantling the structure. But do not forget that renting scaffolding will allow you to save your money and time, and also get the most durable, stable and safe structure that fully complies with all the requirements of regulatory documentation.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding
The attached drawings for DIY wooden scaffolding will help you better understand the process. We carry out the work in this order:
We have already figured out how to make scaffolding with our own hands from wood, all that remains is to calculate the consumption of materials. Of course, in each specific case, the calculation must be carried out taking into account the dimensions of the temporary structure. To give you an idea of the amount of materials, we will provide a calculation for a structure measuring 300x200x40 cm. So, you will need 6 meters edged boards with a cross-section of 20x4 cm for assembling the working flooring, as well as 36 m of timber with a cross-section of 150x100 mm for manufacturing support posts. Then we can calculate the total cost homemade scaffolding, based on the price of one cubic meter of wood.
A video on how to build scaffolding with your own hands will help you better understand the assembly process.
In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood
DIY scaffolding made from pipes
To execute this type auxiliary structures with your own hands, you must use steel pipes 4-6 cm in diameter with a large wall thickness. To connect tubular elements into one structure, you can use clamp fasteners. Detailed drawings for do-it-yourself scaffolding made from pipes can be found on the Internet.
Typically, homemade temporary steel structures are no more than 6-8 m high, since difficulties arise in purchasing and delivering a long pipe to the installation site. Insignificant height is, perhaps, the main disadvantage of self-made metal scaffolding. If you need to do work at height, it is much easier to buy or rent ready-made factory scaffolding.
DIY scaffolding drawings
Making scaffolding with your own hands is justified only when constructing a small country house, dacha or cottage. For professional developers and large construction companies It is most advisable to purchase ready-made sets of auxiliary equipment, which will be durable, reliable and safe, and most importantly, can be reused.
You can also weld metal scaffolding with your own hands rather than fasten it with clamps. However, in this case you lose. Firstly, the structure cannot be disassembled for storage or for transportation to a new location. Secondly, the resulting rigid scaffolding structure cannot be adjusted to the characteristics of the object under construction: it is impossible to change the height of the flooring or change the pitch of the posts.
But if you are going to make frame scaffolding with your own hands, then welding may be needed to make frame structural elements. You can also find drawings online that explain how to make your own pin scaffolding.
What to choose?
To understand what is better, do-it-yourself scaffolding or ready-made traditional temporary structures, you need to know the features of the object under construction and the purpose of the scaffolding. If it is necessary to erect a large structure, a large team of workers will work, and significant loads on the flooring are expected, then it is much better and safer to use a factory set of auxiliary structures. Moreover, scaffolding for rent also allows you to save money, just like structures made by yourself.
DIY scaffolding from pallets
Do-it-yourself scaffolding: advantages
- Saving. A set of ready-made scaffolding costs at least 150 rubles. behind square meter equipment. Homemade scaffolding will cost much less, especially if you have the materials to make it.
- If you require temporary structures for one-time use during construction own home, then hand-made scaffolding for a dacha will be the best option.
- You can make stronger scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe. However, this is only justified if you have the materials. It is not profitable to specifically buy a pipe and make scaffolding out of it, especially since you can always rent such equipment.
- Another opportunity to save money could be the purchase of ready-made homemade scaffolding. For example, there are reviews that do-it-yourself Armenian scaffolding is distinguished by its reasonable price and excellent quality.
Disadvantages of homemade scaffolding:
From the proposed photos you can understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands. But let's list all the disadvantages of such auxiliary structures:
- Factory scaffolding can be assembled and dismantled in a couple of hours. The homemade scaffolding can take a whole day to assemble.
- Difficulties in constructing scaffolding with your own hands are not in their favor. In traditional steel structures, all components are calculated and thought out to the smallest detail. In addition, attached detailed instructions assemblies.
- The weight of wooden homemade scaffolding is much greater than that of prefabricated steel structures.
How to make scaffolding with your own hands (video):
All photos from the article
Are there any regulatory requirements to scaffolding used for laying walls and finishing facades? In this article we will get acquainted with the documents regulating their construction, and also find out how to properly assemble homemade wooden scaffolding.
Regulations
Scaffolding requirements are mentioned in passing in countless occupational safety manuals; however, any serious attention to their design is given in only two documents:
- GOST 24258-88 describes the use of scaffolding during construction;
- SNiP 12-03-99 is dedicated to labor safety in construction; Scaffolding means are mentioned in section 7.4 of this document.
Let us clarify: the section is devoted not only to scaffolding, but also to safety when using small-scale mechanization equipment and auxiliary devices in general.
Let's dive deeper into the requirements.
GOST 24258-88
First of all, GOST standardizes the design load on scaffolding depending on its type and the height of the site above ground level.
During the construction or finishing of a house, you cannot do without scaffolding. To build them, you don’t have to turn to professionals; you can easily do everything yourself. The structure can be erected either from wood or from a profile pipe. The first structures will be disposable, but the second ones can be used a large number of times. Next, we’ll look at how to properly build both types of scaffolding with your own hands.
What does the structure consist of?
Before proceeding to the construction of scaffolding, it is necessary to clearly determine what elements they consist of. So, the design includes:
various braces that give rigidity to the structure;
floor crossbars;
boards that will serve as the floor of each floor;
supports that will give stability;
fencing;
staircase for ascending to the floors of a structure.
A homemade structure – isn’t it dangerous?
It’s very easy to make scaffolding yourself, but is it worth it? First of all, I would like to note that this is not a small portable structure, but a rather voluminous structure, which then needs to be stored somewhere. Even if it is disassembled, the existing boards and pipes will need to be attached somewhere. It’s good if the house can be heated with wood, then it can be useful, but if not, the wood will simply deteriorate over time. With metal scaffolding, everything is somewhat simpler - they can be rented out, but again, if there is a demand for them.
It is also worth noting that the use of hand-made structures is possible no higher than the second floor. The construction of scaffolding, especially of wood, at a higher height can be hazardous to health. In addition, you need to understand that if the structure will no longer be used, is it worth spending a lot of time on its construction? It might be easier to rent. Having assessed all of the above, you can decide whether homemade scaffolding is needed during the construction or renovation of a house. If the answer is yes, it will be necessary to create drawings where not only appearance design, but also indicates the amount of material required.
Installation of a wooden structure
In order to create a structure made of wood, you will need to prepare the following materials:
wooden boards for racks approximately 5x10 centimeters thick;
boards for the floor and crossbars 5 centimeters thick;
wooden boards for fencing and braces with a thickness of at least 3 centimeters;
In this case, the step between the posts should be approximately 2.3 meters, the width of the floor, in order for it to be safe to walk on, should be at least 1 meter, and the height of the structure should be no more than 5 meters. So, in order to create scaffolding from boards with your own hands you need:
use braces to fasten four posts together;
secure the crossbars at the required height;
fasten the boards that serve as the floor to the crossbars;
attach boards that will act as a fence;
install supports;
secure in in the right place stairs;
check the drawings.
All work on creating a structure made of wood is carried out only with the help of nails and a hammer (see video).
Metal structure
A structure made from a profile pipe is more reliable than a structure made from boards. When building a structure, it is necessary to take into account that the dimensions of one section should be approximately 1.5x1x1.6 meters (see photo). You also need to prepare materials such as:
pipe for supports cross section 3x3 centimeters and 1.5 meters long;
pipe for braces with a diameter of 1.5 centimeters;
pipe for connections with a cross section of 2.5x2.5 centimeters;
the floor is made of boards about 5 centimeters thick and approximately 2 meters long;
So, in order to create a structure from a profile pipe you need:
cut pipes for braces for horizontal elements of 1 meter each and for vertical elements 2 meters each;
cut two-meter braces at each end, which will greatly simplify their fastening;
connect two supports to each other with horizontal braces, the distance between which should be approximately 30 centimeters;
secure connecting elements;
drill holes for bolts on the braces and supports;
assemble the structure from a profile pipe to the end;
clean the structure and paint it;
check the available drawings.
How to do without forests?
It is worth thinking about scaffolding even at the stage of creating house drawings, but if this does not happen, what is the right thing to do? If the construction or finishing work of the building is carried out by professionals, then there is no need to think about them, because every team should have such structures. If they have a chance self-construction lost or no more work is planned where they might be needed, the structure can easily be rented.
But in order for scaffolding to really no longer be needed, everything Finishing work immediately need to be carried out with the highest quality possible. For example, it is better to use as finishing materials facing brick or other similar ones, because, for example, plaster and siding will require additional attention.
From this article you will learn how to properly collect wooden scaffolding with your own hands - prepared for you step-by-step instruction. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional accessories for working at height.
Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders that is used for lifting and working at heights. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is hazardous.
Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on scaffolding:
- Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
- Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
- Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
- Utility. For inventory scaffolding, it is possible to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.
Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. Buy them for home use unprofitable, only rent is possible for a large amount of work (for example, on the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.
Standard wooden scaffolding
The design of these scaffoldings came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have improved. They deserve special attention.
Basic elements of wooden scaffolding
1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes
Racks. Vertical supports made of edged boards good quality. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:
- Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
- The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
- Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
- The board should not be affected by insects.
Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.
Cross members. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for racks. One additional requirement: It is unacceptable to use spliced cross members without additional support.
Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. Can be made from edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.
Braces. Diagonal links connecting racks of different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces maximum length to connect the largest number of racks.
Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.
Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding
There is a set general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude masters:
- The foundation must be reliable. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
- The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
- Each node has at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
- Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
- Always install handrails with inside racks.
- Apply front board(fencing near the deck).
- The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
- The pitch of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.
Scaffolding assembly
For creating wooden structure scaffolding you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.
Operating procedure:
- The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal pitch (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
- We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.
Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.
- We sew the frame with a brace.
- We prepare required amount"envelopes".
- Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them diagonally maximum height so that they stand without support.
- Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
- Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
- Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
- Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.
Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!
- Install the handrail and front board.
- If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
- If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.
Scaffolding is carried out in reverse order— dismantling of flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.
Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding
Steel cross member - bracket
This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.
Triangular bracket
Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To construct a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. Most dangerous look high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.
Bricklayer's express scaffolding
They are created from pallets on which bricks are delivered. As a rule, rafter boards are used for flooring. It does not require sawing of the material, and is quite reliable if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.
Bricklayer's scaffolding on video
Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can result in unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.
When building a residential building, many processes must be performed at height, and therefore it is impossible to do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution– make scaffolding with your own hands, then you won’t have to pay rent and waste time on transporting the structure. They come in wood and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.
Construction and types of scaffolding
Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:
- support posts;
- stairs;
- floorings and lintels for it;
- fencing railings;
- stops;
- horizontal and diagonal struts.
Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all parts are nailed together. At the same time, such scaffolding is not designed for heavy loads; dismantling it takes time, and reassembly will be less durable, since nail holes remain in the beams. Forests from metal pipes much stronger, they can be easily expanded if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.
Wedge forests Depending on the methods of fastening, there are 4 main types of scaffolding.
Table. Types of forests
| Types of forests | Description |
|---|---|
| frame | metal structures made of vertical frames fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffoldings are lightweight and easy to install |
| wedge | very reliable and durable structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders |
| pin | Rarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, can withstand very heavy loads, but is too expensive and puts a lot of pressure on the ground |
| clamp | These are universal scaffolds, excellent for complex buildings. geometric shape. The assembly process is quite labor-intensive, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically |
How to assemble wooden scaffolding
To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there should be a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters between the posts, the width of the flooring should be at least 1 m, and overall height scaffolding - maximum 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is drawn up.
To work you will need:
- timber 100x100 mm;
- boards 30 mm thick;
- boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
- nails;
- hammer;
- level;
- roulette;
- Circular Saw.
The wood must be dense and dry, without cracks. Damp wood will make the structure heavier and may become deformed after drying. Since scaffolding is required only for the duration of construction or finishing of the house, there is no need to treat it with antiseptic compounds or sand it.
Step 1. Making the frame
4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m each and 2 of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: the smaller ones along the upper edge, 4 meter ones along the lower edge. You should end up with two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal struts.
Step 2. Assembling the frame
The frames are lifted, installed vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper edges about 1 m. Check the horizontal position of the sidewalls with a building level, and if everything is correct, nail the frame tightly. The finished structure should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls made of timber.
Step 3. Installation of flooring
Flooring boards must be nailed to the upper cross beams. It is best to stuff them along the width of the frame; The boards are laid closely, without gaps at the joints. Additional crossbars are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.
Prices for various types of construction boards
Construction boards
Assembly of metal scaffolding
In private construction, it is most convenient to use frame metal scaffolding with wooden flooring. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. Steel and aluminum racks are suitable for the manufacture of sections; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section has a height of 1.5 m, a width of 1 m and a length of 1.65 to 2 m.
To work you will need:
Step 1. Preparing the spacers
Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of horizontal ones is 96 cm, diagonal - 2 m. After this, cuts 6 cm long are made at the ends of two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the spacers to the supporting posts.
Step 2. Making adapters
To build up scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from profile pipes: 25x25 mm pipes are cut into pieces 30 cm long, and from 30x30 mm pipes, blanks 8 cm long are cut. Short blanks are put on long ones and welded in the middle to prevent shifts.
Step 3. Frame assembly
Two vertical posts are connected to each other by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. The result is a frame in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. From sheet metal cut out square plates 70x70 mm and weld them flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the section racks will not fall into the ground, although on soft soils under metal plates Additionally, dense wooden planks are laid.
Step 4. Section installation
Two frames are installed vertically, one opposite the other, and diagonal struts are tried on. Mark the fastening points with a marker, then drill holes for the bolts in the posts and spacers. Connect all the parts together and check the level of the horizontality of the upper crossbars. If the structure is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to stand on the scaffolding.
Step 5. Making the flooring
Flooring boards can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse flooring, the sides of the structure are bolted horizontal pipes at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, take boards at least 2 m long, knock them down along the width of the sections, and reinforce them from below with transverse bars to prevent deflection.
To prevent the flooring from moving during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be secured to its ends to match the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark the line from below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. Markings are made in the same way at the other end of the shield. Next, take a profile 17-20 mm wide, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it with self-tapping screws to the boards on the marked lines. Now, when the flooring is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will not allow the boards to move.
Step 5. Painting the scaffolding
Metal scaffolding is intended for repeated use, which means it requires protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, moisture causes the frame to become corroded, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolding, each element should be sanded, wiped off dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring also treated and painted to protect against moisture and rot.
Prices for poles, profile pipes
Pillars, profile pipes
Video - DIY scaffolding
