DIY Chinese kan oven. DIY rocket stove, drawings and manufacturing process - from simple to complex. Continuous combustion furnace diagram

Drawings and videos of a rocket stove required for DIY installation

Do-it-yourself jet stove: diagram, drawings, step-by-step instructions for making a rocket stove, etc. + video

The jet stove or rocket stove appeared as a result of a deviation from the traditions of manufacturing equipment for heating a room. It is considered an economical heat generator, the design of which is elementary. Therefore, many people are thinking about building a jet furnace with their own hands.

Description, advantages and disadvantages of the rocket stove

A heat generator for heating the air in a room is called a rocket stove or jet stove, since during operation, in case of excessive air supply, it makes special sounds. This noise can be mistaken for the roar of a jet engine. In normal mode, the equipment operates with a barely audible rustling sound.

A rocket stove serves as a device for heating a home and cooking food. It takes about 6 hours to burn one batch of firewood in such equipment, more than in a standard metal stove. The reason for this is the creation of a heat generator based on a top-burning furnace.

The flame from the jet furnace may burst out

The advantages of the rocket stove include:

• independence from fuel energy;
• simplicity of design, consisting of accessible parts, connected in a matter of minutes;
• the ability to provide a lot of heat, despite the quality of the loaded fuel.

The jet furnace also has some disadvantages:

• manual control, which implies constant monitoring of equipment operation;
• danger of burns, because the walls of the equipment become extremely hot;
• It is inappropriate to use in a bathhouse, since it cannot be warmed up.

Kinds

A unit that emits a rocket-like hum during operation can be:

• portable (a unit made of metal pipes, buckets or a gas cylinder); Portable rocket stoves are mass-produced by industry
• stationary (made from fireclay bricks and metal containers); Such a unit is more difficult to build than a metal furnace
• equipment for heating air with a stove bench. The stove bench is equipped behind the back wall of the stove

Portable structures are made in large quantities, because they are used for hiking. The basis of these heat generators is a pipe made up of several sections.

True, such structures, unlike units based on fireclay bricks, are not reliable. Walls made of refractory blocks increase the heat transfer of the jet furnace.

If desired, you can add a bed in the form of a sofa or bed, decorated with clay or sawdust.

Parts and operation of a jet heat generator

A basic rocket furnace is a device consisting of two pipe fragments connected by a bend at an angle of 90 degrees.

The combustion chamber in this heat generator is usually a zone in the horizontal part of the structure.

But sometimes fuel is placed in the vertical section of the apparatus, for which a rocket stove is constructed from two pipes of different lengths, mounted vertically and connected by a common horizontal channel.

Primary and secondary air passes through the furnace

The operation of a jet stove is based on two actions: the unhindered passage of wood gases through the pipe and the afterburning of gases produced during fuel combustion.

Wood chips and firewood are placed in the firebox of this heat generator after a highly flammable material such as paper ignites. A container with water or other contents is placed on the open section of the pipe.

At the same time, a small space is left between the structure and the installed container, which is necessary to create traction.

The processes occurring inside a stationary reactive furnace resemble the operation of pyrolysis heating units

Calculation of parameters (tables)

The volume of the furnace should be determined wisely, because it is it that affects the power and amount of heat generated by the heating equipment.

When calculating the dimensions of jet heating equipment, use the indicator of the internal diameter of the drum D, the value of which can range from 300–600 mm. You also need to know the area cross section drum

To determine this indicator of the rocket stove, use the formula: S = 3.14 * D2 /4.

The main dimensions of the jet furnace are presented in the table:

Particular importance is attached to the length of the flue with the stove bench. The maximum permissible values ​​are shown in the table:

The volume of the secondary ash chamber is also an important indicator, depending on the volume of the drum and the primary chimney.

Construction raw materials for the construction of a non-standard furnace

The production of jet heating equipment will require:

• barrels with a volume of 200 liters and a diameter of 0.6 meters, an empty liquefied gas cylinder or tin buckets to build a furnace drum;
• square or round steel pipes 2–3 mm thick, which are needed to create a blower, combustion chamber and primary chimney;
• fireclay crushed stone and oven clay as thermal insulation materials;
• adobe, which serves as the outer coating layer;
• fireclay bricks;
• sand from the bottom of the river;
• pieces of sheets of zinc-coated steel or aluminum for the manufacture of lids and doors;
• asbestos or basalt cardboard, which serves as a sealant.

When constructing a rocket stove, you will need a welding machine. And if you plan to make heating equipment from bricks, then you will have to take:

• Master OK;
• mortar spatula;
• hammer-pick;
• jointing;
• sharp-angled sledgehammer;
• level;
• plumb line;
• roulette

Preparation for assembling heating equipment

When choosing a location for a rocket stove, follow some rules:

• jet heating equipment is placed only in a room with an area of ​​at least 16 m²;
• Without floorboards under the stove, installation of equipment will be easier;
• It is prohibited to place wooden beams above a structure that produces heat;
• if it is intended that the chimney will go through ceilings, then the heating equipment is placed in the middle of the house;
• the heat generator cannot be installed near the external contour of the house, otherwise the room will lose heated air;
• The jet device must not be placed next to walls and partitions of wooden materials.

To make it convenient to add fuel to jet heating equipment, it is wiser to place it facing the entrance. It is important to leave at least a meter of unoccupied area around the rocket stove.

IN small house builders advise setting aside a place for the stove in the corner. In this case, the firebox should be directed in one direction, and the bed (if it is made) – in the other.

The stove stands on a special platform that protects the floor from high temperatures

Having found a suitable site for the rocket stove, they begin to prepare it for construction work. If boards are laid on the floor in the house, then in the place where the equipment will be installed, they will need to be removed. A hole is dug under the exposed floor, the bottom of which is necessarily pressed.

Before construction work a special solution should be mixed. It consists of sand and clay combined in a 1:1 ratio. You will need enough water so that the construction raw materials have the consistency of sour cream, that is, ¼ of the amount of dry ingredients.

Step-by-step instructions for making it yourself

If you plan to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder, then you don’t have to be afraid of difficulties. The steps to create equipment from such construction raw materials are quite simple:

1. the upper part is cut off from a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in order to build a kind of cap;

   The balloon is cut off at the top and bottom

2. Based on the instructions in the drawing, all parts of the product are welded to each other, that is gas cylinder, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (future chimney), a pipe with a diameter of 7 cm (internal channel) and another pipe with a diameter of 15 cm (firebox);

   Dimensions in mm

3. the space between the two pipes is filled with a material that retains heat, for example, sand, which has been thoroughly calcined, that is, cleared of organic substances;
4. To give the structure stability, the legs are welded.

To build a rocket stove with a stove bench, which involves the use of bricks, you need to proceed differently:

1. The area for arranging the firebox is deepened by removing 10 cm of soil. The combustion chamber is formed from fireclay bricks. Formwork is created along the contour of the structure being manufactured. To make the base strong, it is recommended to lay reinforcement mesh or metal rods in it;

   The platform will harden in about two days

2. The structure is filled with liquid concrete. Then they wait for the solution to harden and finish the work. The bricks are laid in a continuous line, creating a platform for the stove. After this, the walls of the structure are formed, placing several rows of brick blocks;
3. The lower channel of the structure is constructed, with one line of bricks laid across to block the combustion chamber. The blocks are placed, leaving the vertical channel and the firebox opening open;

   Two sectors of the furnace at this stage of construction should be open

4. Find the body from the old boiler and cut off the top and bottom covers on it. A flange is installed at the bottom of the resulting pipe through which a horizontal heat exchanger will pass. The parts must be connected to each other with a continuous weld;

   Work requires accuracy

5. An outlet pipe is inserted into the barrel, after which they take a metal brush and scrape off the rust from the walls of the container. The cleaned barrel is treated with a primer, and a little later with paint that is resistant to high temperatures;
6. The horizontal chimney is connected by welding to the side outlet - the future ash pit. To facilitate its cleaning, a sealed flange is installed;
7. The fire tube is laid out from refractory bricks. At the same time, a channel 18 cm high and wide is formed inside the structure. When doing this, they constantly use a building level, which allows you to control the verticality of the product;

   The height of the pipe is determined in advance

8. The flame tube is covered protective casing, and the resulting gaps are sealed with perlite. The lower area of ​​the vertical channel is sealed with raw clay, the function of which is to prevent the thermal insulation material from spilling onto the floor;
9. From the boiler, on which the top and bottom have been cut off, a fuel tank is formed. A handle must be welded to it;
10. To improve the appearance, the structure is treated with adobe putty, consisting of sawdust and raw clay. The first component of the composition serves in the same way as crushed stone in concrete, that is, it prevents cracking of the furnace walls. It is recommended to apply adobe putty over perlite backfill;
11. They create the facade of the stove, for which the stove contour is laid out from stone, bricks, adobe and sand. The back side of the structure is filled with crushed stone, and the front side with adobe mixture, making the surface perfectly flat;
12. A casing made of metal barrel. The lower pipe of the container is directed towards the bed. The bottom of the structure is treated with raw clay, which will ensure its tightness;
13. A channel made of corrugated pipe is connected to the combustion chamber. It will serve as a link between the firebox and the outside atmosphere;

    At this stage the oven looks almost finished

14. A test firing of the stove is carried out, watching how the gases are removed from the horizontal chimney. After this, the heat exchanger pipes are connected to the lower pipe installed on a red brick platform;
15. The stove is equipped with a smoke exhaust pipe. The junction of the chimney and the heat generator is sealed with fire-resistant coating and asbestos cord;
16. Using clay and adobe, the bed is given the desired shape. Only the horizontal section of the structure is left unsealed, which will then be used during cooking.

    The oven functions as a whole system

Design improvement

A bench with a gas duct inside is not the only option for upgrading a rocket stove. The design can be improved with a water jacket connected to the heating system in which water circulates. It is advisable to give this part of the structure the appearance of a coil created from a copper pipe twisting onto the chimney.

This design provides even more heat

Another way to improve a jet furnace is to organize the flow of heated secondary air into the flame tube. This will increase the efficiency of the heat generator, but will lead to deposits in the primary chimney a large amount of soot. Therefore, it is better to make sure that the drum cover can be removed if necessary.

Subtleties of operating an unconventional stove

A rocket furnace is heated in a similar way to a top combustion heat generator. It turns out that the kindling of equipment called a rocket must be carried out according to certain rules:

• the main raw material for heating the unit must be added only after the structure has been well heated, for which purpose sawdust or paper is first placed in the blower sector and set on fire;
• they must react to the muting of the hum emanating from the stove - they put a large batch of fuel into the combustion chamber, which will ignite on its own from the hot remains of sawdust;
• the process is closely monitored, that is, after laying the firewood, the damper is fully opened, and after some time, when the equipment makes a hum, it is closed to produce a sound similar to a rustling;
• as necessary, the damper is closed more and more, otherwise the firebox will be filled with an excess volume of air, which will disrupt the pyrolysis inside the fire tube and lead to the creation of a strong hum.

Since the jet furnace was originally created for use in field conditions, its design is extremely simple. This allows the production of the unit to be carried out by ordinary home handyman. But, despite its apparent lightness, the rocket stove must be assembled, taking into account the correct ratio of parameters. Otherwise, the equipment will be unproductive.

• Ksenia Zubkova
• Print

Source: //legkovmeste.ru/stroitelstvo-i-remont/otoplenie/reaktivnaya-pech-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY rocket oven - instructions!

Unfortunately, in our country almost no one knows about the rocket stove. Meanwhile, such a design is extremely useful in a number of cases due to the almost complete absence of soot during operation and the high combustion temperature.

Jet stove

Rocket stove

Today we will talk about how to make a rocket oven with your own hands.

Principle of operation

Hot gases, instead of a chimney, enter a special hood, where they burn out (hence the absence of soot). At the same time, the temperature increases even more, and the pressure, on the contrary, decreases. The cycle is constantly repeated and soon the stove reaches the combustion mode with maximum draft (the strength of the latter depends on the design features and quality of installation).

Rocket stove

The temperature in the bell can reach 1200ᵒC, as a result of which all waste burns almost without residue, and the exhaust consists mainly of carbon dioxide and water vapor.

Note! Thanks to this, the chimney can be laid under the floor or through some kind of heating structure (a couch, for example, or a bench). What's more, the hot hood can be used to heat water, cook food, dry fruits, etc.

Jet furnaces

The advantages include:

• high efficiency;
• no soot;
• high temperature;
• the possibility of using cones, damp branches, dry plant stems as fuel - almost everything burns at a temperature of 1200ᵒ;
• low fuel consumption - approximately four times lower than in the standard design.

Types of rocket stoves

There are several types of rocket (or jet, as they are also called) stoves.

1. Portable structures made from tin containers (paint cans, buckets, etc.). Excellent helpers on a construction site or on a hike, which can be made in just a few hours.
2. Furnaces made of refractory bricks and metal barrels, intended for heating heat-intensive masses. They are distinguished by a horizontal chimney installed underground and an external riser to provide draft.
3. Completely brick structures are used for air-heated floors. They consist of several chimney pipes at once.

Note! Due to the complexity of implementing the third option, only the first two will be considered in this article.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

In this case, the work traditionally begins with preparing everything necessary.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, drawing

Stage 1. Materials and equipment

For construction you will need:

• fireclay brick;
• steel barrel 200 l;
• chimney pipe;
• metal brush;
• old barbecue;
• fire resistant paint;
• bayonet shovel;
• expanded clay;
• fittings;
• adobe;
• perlite;
• cement mortar;
• trowel. Making a jet furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 2. Preparation

Step 1. A pit is dug in the floor (if possible) approximately 30-50 cm deep. This is necessary so that the level of the horizontal chimney does not rise too much.

Step 2. The steel barrel will serve as a hood for the furnace. First, the barrel is fired and cleaned of soot with a wire brush, after which it is painted with fire-resistant paint.

Note! Paint is applied only after the chimney outlet flange has been installed.

Stage 3. Foundation

Step 1. Preparing the formwork for the future foundation.

Step 2. In the place where the firebox will be, several bricks are driven into the ground.

Step 3. Steel reinforcement is laid at the bottom.

Step 4. Bricks are laid level around the bottom point of the combustion chamber.

Step 5. The base is filled with concrete mortar.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 4. Masonry

After the solution has dried, you can begin laying the rocket stove.

Note! To do this, you need to use only refractory clay.

Step 1. On the first tier, the masonry rises up, leaving only a hole for the combustion chamber.

Step 2. At the second level, the lower channel of the furnace is formed.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Step 3. On the third, the channel is covered with masonry so that there are two holes - for the combustion chamber and the vertical channel.

Note! The bricks do not need to be hewn after laying - they will still have to be hidden with adobe and expanded clay.

Step 4. Preparation for laying the vertical channel. In addition to the barrel itself, this will require an old water heater of approximately 150 liters.

A flange is built into the barrel to connect the chimney. It is also advisable to install a tee here for cleaning the chimney.

Step 5. The ascending part of the structure is placed using the “boot” method. Internal section this part should be approximately 18 cm.

Step 6. A piece of water heater is placed on the ascending part, and the voids between the walls are filled with perlite. The upper part of the perlite is sealed with fireclay clay.

Step 7. The base of the furnace is lined with bags filled with sand, the base of the casing is coated with clay. The voids between the bags and the body are filled with expanded clay, after which the base is finished with the same clay.

Step 8. The chimney is connected, an inverted steel barrel is placed on the ascending part.

Step 9. A test run of the furnace is carried out, after which the barrel is painted with fire-resistant paint.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, diagram

Stage 5. Chimney lining

Step 1. The chimney is lined with sandbags and filled with expanded clay.

Step 2. The structure is given the appropriate shape using fireclay clay.

Note! A rocket stove requires a large amount of oxygen during operation, so it is recommended to install an air duct from the street.

All that remains is to install the old barbecue in the neck of the firebox and close it with a lid. The seams are sealed with clay. That's it, the brick rocket oven is ready for use.

A stove-bed built on the principle of a rocket stove

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, diagram

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, foundation

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Making a camping and garden stove

In this design, as in the one described above, the operating principle is to isolate the fire and direct the thermal energy to the right place.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To prepare a portable rocket stove you will need:

• two tin containers of different diameters;
• a couple of corners;
• steel clamps ø10 cm;
• stainless steel pipe for chimney;
• fine crushed stone;
• Bulgarian;
• metal scissors. Making a camping and garden stove Making a camping and garden stove Making a camping and garden stove In the second bucket - the lower part of the rocket stove, we cut a hole for the pipe. We cut the metal into petals and bend it inside the bucket. for dishes From wire we bend the burner for dishes We heat the rocket stove

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

Step 1. A lid for the structure is made from a smaller bucket. To do this, a hole is made in it for the chimney (the cover is not removed). In this case, it is better to bend the “petals” inward - this way the pipe will be fixed more securely.

The lower half of the bucket is cut off with a grinder.

Step 2. A hole is cut in the bottom of another container to connect the firebox. The tin is cut into “petals” with scissors and bent inward.

Step 3. The forward flow is assembled from a pipe and a couple of corners. The pipe is then inserted into the bucket and connected there to the “petals” using a steel clamp. That's it, the forward flow of the rocket furnace is ready.

Step 4. The space between the direct flow and the walls of the bucket is filled with fine crushed stone. The latter will perform two functions in the design at once - thermal insulation and thermal accumulation.

Step 5. The second bucket (lid) is placed on the jet stove.

Step 6. A hotplate is bent from steel wire.

Note! Instead of a burner, you can install three bricks.

Step 7. All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet stove, kindling

Operating rules for rocket stoves

Rocket stoves, as well as other long-burning designs, need to be launched onto a warm pipe. And if for the second version of the stove this is not so important, then for the first, a cold chimney will only lead to wasted burning of fuel. For this reason, the structure needs to be preheated - heated with sawdust, paper, etc.

It is also worth noting that the jet stove is unable to self-adjust, so at first the vent opens completely, and closes only after the structure begins to hum strongly. Subsequently, the availability of oxygen gradually decreases.

About the rocket stove in the bathhouse

Jet wood stove with deck chair

Many people are probably interested in the question: is it possible to use a jet stove in a bathhouse? It would seem that it is possible, because it is quite easy to equip a heater on a tire.

In reality, such a design is not suitable for a bathhouse. For light steam, you first need to warm up the walls, and only then, after some time, the air. For the latter, the oven must be a center of convection and thermal radiation (IR). This is the problem - in a rocket furnace, convection is clearly distributed, and losses are thermal radiation are not provided for by the design at all.

DIY rocket oven

conclusions

Be that as it may, today in the manufacture of rocket stoves there is more intuition than real accurate calculations, therefore, this is an almost limitless field for creativity.

We also suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video instructions for making a rocket stove.

– Do-it-yourself jet stove

Source: //svoimi-rykami.ru/stroitelstvo-doma/pechi_i_mangaly/pech-raketa-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY long-burning brick rocket stove: drawing, instructions, photo

A rocket stove made of long-burning bricks, despite its simplicity of design, can solve a number of problems for owners of dachas and private houses. These include not only heating and cooking functions, but also the creation original interior and comfort in the room.

Principle of operation

During the thermal decomposition of solid organic fuel, the release of gaseous substances, also decomposing and turning into wood gas in the process, which has, upon combustion, high level heat transfer.

In conventional solid fuel stoves, wood gas goes into the pipe along with the gas, where it cools and settles on the walls in the form of soot. In the oven missile type Due to the horizontal channel, the gases move more slowly, do not have time to cool, but burn out, giving off a large amount of heat.

In models of jet heating devices of complex design, heated air and gas pass through a number of internal channels. Then they move to the upper part of the body, under the hob, where it burns completely. For such a rocket there is no need for additional boost. The draft in them is created by the chimney, and the longer its length, the more intense the upward flow.

Principle of operation

This diagram shows the operating principle of a rocket stove with a stove bench

Advantages and disadvantages

Rocket stoves long combustion have the following advantages:

• high efficiency - at least 85%;
• high speed of heating the room - 50 m² will become warm in less than 1 hour;
• absence of soot - the exhaust during fuel combustion does not form soot, but is formed in the form of steam and carbon;
• possibility of functioning on solid fuel any kind;
• low consumption - the fuel consumption of a rocket stove is 4 - 5 times less than a conventional stove under equal conditions: combustion time and heating temperature;
• the possibility of installing a warm bed;
• Duration of heat retention in a well-heated structure without adding fuel - up to 12 hours.

This stove has many advantages, but there are also disadvantages

The disadvantages include:

• manual method of controlling a heating device - fuel burns out quickly and requires regular reporting;
• the high heating temperature of some structural elements threatens owners with burns in case of accidental contact;
• the heating speed does not allow the use of a rocket stove for baths;
• the aesthetic component of such a device is not for everyone and is not suitable for every interior;
• danger of carbon monoxide entering living rooms.

Materials

Do-it-yourself building materials for the construction of a long-burning rocket stove are selected depending on the calorific value of the fuel. For laying the main part of the body, a simple red one is usually used kiln brick. The firebox and combustion bunker are lined with fireclay bricks.

If you plan to use high-calorie fuel (for example, coal), then refractory bricks are used for the construction of almost all parts of the structure. The masonry elements are fastened with an aqueous solution of a mixture of sand and clay.

Regardless of the type of design for a long-burning rocket stove, you will need to buy stove accessories:

• blower;
• grates;
• firebox doors;
• intermediate cap;
• chimney pipe.

Tools

To build a rocket-type furnace with your own hands, you need to prepare in advance a set of tools for work, which should consist of:

• trowels for scooping and distributing the solution. It is more convenient to work with a tool with the handle moved slightly to the side;
• picks or hammers - picks for trimming individual parts of brick;
• Bulgarian women with diamond blade for sawing whole blocks into quarters and halves;
• mallets with a rubber tip for leveling bricks in masonry;
• twisted cord - moorings;
• building level;
• square and tape measure;
• shovels.

You also need to stock up on two containers for preparing the solution, concrete and a metal mesh for sifting the ingredients.

How to do it yourself?

Before you make a rocket stove, you need to decide on the location of its installation, the dimensions of the future design, and develop a diagram. The masonry technology itself is quite simple; any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket stove can be built from 20 bricks at a summer cottage and used to heat food brought from home.

Selecting a location

Before starting construction, the first thing is to choose a location. Brick kilns rocket type is recommended to be placed closer to the front door. In this case, after cleaning, the ash will not need to be carried across the entire room, which will have a positive effect on the overall dustiness of the room.

It is also desirable that at the point where the pipe exits there are no rafters located closer to the chimney than 40 cm. And yet, the stove should not be adjacent to the external wall of the house, so that expensive heat is not lost to heating the street.

Preparation of the solution

Cement mortar will quickly crack under the influence of high temperatures, so for laying heating devices made of bricks, only a mortar consisting of clay and sand is used.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, strained, and then sand must be added. The resulting solution should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream. You can check its viscosity level in the following way:

• place a wooden stick or trowel handle into the mixture;
• remove the tool and shake well;
• check the thickness of the adhering layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm add sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required thickness can fill all the unevenness of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Laying a rocket furnace of 20 bricks

Ordering a rocket stove for 20 bricks

Example of a brick rocket stove

Laying a rocket stove with a stove bench

A brick rocket stove, even equipped with a stove bench, is small in size. The order shown in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without using metal products. Only the doors will be made of iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it a more rounded shape.

Row No.	Number of bricks, pcs.	Description of the masonry	Drawing
1	62	Forming the base of the furnace	(click to enlarge)
2	44	Formation of the base of channels for heating the bed along the entire structure. Fastening mortgages for mounting a cast iron door
3	44	Repeating the outline of the second row
4	59	Complete channel blocking. Beginning of the formation of a vertical smoke channel and firebox
5	60	Construction of a bed	(click to enlarge)
6	17	Continuation of the laying of the smoke channel
7	18
8	14
9; 10	14	Formation of a smoke channel	(click to enlarge)
11	13
12	11	Beginning of laying the chimney pipe. This is where the channel begins, through which the air from the hob will fall down to move to the stove bench
13	10	Completion of the formation of the surface for the hob. Laying an asbestos pad, which is covered with sheet steel.	(click to enlarge)
14; 15	5	Closing the chimney channel and forming a low wall between the stove bench and the hob.

After finishing masonry work The homemade rocket stove must be dried, carefully, heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the required amount of firewood is placed in the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30 - 40 minutes.

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until its outer surface is cleared of damp stains. Depending on the size of the device, drying may take from three to eight days. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Accelerating drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Finished look

You need to launch a brick rocket stove only when the chimney is warm. For a small device, this property is not so significant, and a larger stove on a cold pipe only wastes firewood.

Therefore, to bake a rocket before loading the fuel quota after a long break in operation, you need to heat it with paper, dry shavings, straw, etc., placing them in a ash pit with the door open. When the hum in the stove decreases in pitch or subsides, then you can load all the fuel into the firebox; it should ignite by itself from the existing fire.

A rocket stove with a stove bench is not a completely self-regulating device for external conditions and fuel energy efficiency. Therefore, at the beginning of the fire with the normal amount of fuel, the ash door is left in the open position. After the stove begins to hum strongly, it is covered until the sound emitted is barely audible.

Only dry wood can be used to heat the stove; wet wood will not allow the stove to warm up to the required temperature, which can lead to reverse draft.

Conclusion

The brick jet stove is becoming an increasingly popular heating device for small buildings, both temporary and permanent residence. This is explained by the simplicity of execution, low cost of material, long battery life and high heat transfer of this design.

Among autonomous heating systems In private homes, the rocket stove (also called a jet stove) stands out especially well. The device can be invented independently from scrap materials, so in terms of cost, such a stove always beats purchased models. About other advantages, operating principle and step by step instructions on how to make a rocket stove with your own hands - in this article.

Operating principle and design advantages

The name of the device speaks for itself. Indeed, the operating principle of such a furnace is reminiscent of the functioning of a rocket engine running on solid fuel. Briefly it can be described as follows:

1. Firewood and coal are placed in a vertical bunker, after which the hot gases rise upward.
2. The gases enter the so-called afterburning zone - here they undergo secondary combustion due to the highly heated space.
3. Afterburning is facilitated not by primary, but by secondary air entering through an additional supply channel.
4. The gases then follow complex system chimneys, which are installed in permanent structures in order to completely warm up all rooms.

This design provides quite a lot of tangible advantages compared to a conventional oven:

Of course, this design has certain disadvantages, but they are few:

• First of all, a flared rocket should not be left unattended - but strictly speaking, this rule applies to all stoves. If the gases create too much pressure, the heat can increase rapidly, potentially causing a fire.
• You should not put even barely damp wood into a jet stove. Due to water vapor, intermediate combustion products will not be able to burn out to the end, as a result, backdraft will occur and the flame will weaken.
• Finally, in the case of a bathhouse, a rocket will not work. This means that the design is not suitable for a steam room, which is heated by infrared radiation. But the rocket produces clearly not enough radiation of this kind.

THIS IS INTERESTING. The name "rocket" may have another explanation. If it is not working properly, the oven begins to hum inside like a rocket. This is due to the fact that too much fuel is supplied and the gas pressure increases sharply. The optimal fuel supply mode ensures quiet crackling of firewood, as in a conventional stove.

A visual description of the rocket furnace structure can be seen here.

Rocket firing rules

Due to the design features, such a stove requires compliance with special combustion rules. However, they are all quite simple:

• First of all, only dry wood is placed in such a device - in any form: branches, logs, twigs, etc.
• Before laying wood, the stove should be well heated. This is done in the traditional way - paper, cardboard, splinters, and birch bark are burned. At the same time, it is important to listen to the sound - it should clearly change (or even subside) when the structure warms up enough to start laying logs.
• The door is kept closed throughout the warm-up period. Therefore, it is important to put in enough material so that you no longer have to look into the oven.
• As usual, the traction force is regulated by the blower. However, you should again determine whether the damper needs to be opened or gradually closed by the sound. If the system quiets down, new portions of air must be supplied. If it hums too loudly, the damper needs to be closed.

Types of designs: simple and complex

Strictly speaking, rockets have the same device. The classification of structures is based on the complexity of a particular system - primarily on the following characteristics:

• the presence/absence of a complex, branched chimney system that allows heating large rooms;
• presence/absence of additional equipment, for example, a warm sleeping place (bed).

Basic option

You can construct such a system in literally an hour, because all you need is a barrel, a pipe that plays the role of a combustion chamber, and insulation material (slag, ash, etc.). The operating principle is very simple:

• Firewood is placed in the lower part of the combustion chamber.
• The upward air flow comes from the same side.
• The fuel ignites, and a layer of thermal insulation traps most of the energy, directing it upward.
• The heated air moves through the pipe and heats objects standing on it.

Obviously, such a rocket is perfect for a field kitchen, but such a stove is not suitable for heating a room - the vapors exit directly into the chimney.

Design with chimney

This design is an improved basic version that is perfect for small spaces. Thanks to the chimney, all gases leave the combustion chamber and are discharged outside. Essentially, this is the same potbelly stove, but providing more heat.

In order for the efficiency to be as high as possible, several features must be taken into account when creating such a system:

1. The most important thing is to insulate the pipe itself. Usually it is made double, and between the internal surfaces, in the cavity, they fall asleep thermal insulation material– You can also use ash.
2. The fundamental difference is the presence of a channel for the entry of so-called secondary air. It is thanks to this technique that complete combustion occurs in the chamber, and accordingly, fuel is consumed to the maximum. The reaction products consist almost entirely of safe substances: carbon dioxide and water vapor.
3. And one more important point– the smoke exhaust pipe is located in the lower third of the structure. Thus, hot vapors first fall upward, hit hard surfaces there, burn out, release maximum heat, cool down, and only after that they enter the outlet, and then leave the room.

Such an improved design can be made from scrap materials. Used empty gas cylinders are especially popular. They have strong walls and heat up well. It is only important to completely drain all remaining gas before starting work.

Design with a bed

Finally, the most perfect, truly permanent structure that needs to be built for a house. The principle of operation of such a rocket stove does not change, but the chimney system becomes more complicated so that the heated energy is enough not only for the house itself, but also for a sleeping place - a couch.

Chimneys are made of heat-resistant plastics and other temperature-resistant materials. Pipes, as a rule, are installed in the form of a complex zigzag system, which allows the fuel to burn completely.

The design features are as follows:

1. Oven, i.e. The combustion chamber itself is located at the head or at the feet. The chimney is on the opposite side.
2. Usually, a heating surface is made large enough to provide the possibility of cooking food along with the sleeping place.
3. Sometimes 1-2 steps are installed next to the bed, on which you can sit and warm up your back. This is especially characteristic of the traditional Asian approach to interior design - as you know, in many cultures, food is eaten at low tables, sitting on the floor.
4. In our domestic version, you can create something like a corner sofa and style it as a sleeping place. It turns out quite interesting from a design point of view and at the same time practical.

NOTE. Making a couch requires especially careful calculations - it is necessary that the thickness of the structure is optimal: the surface should warm up well, but not burn. However, the system is based on a conventional oven, for example, from a gas cylinder.

Making a rocket stove with a stove bench: drawings, instructions, video

The following describes in detail the instructions on how you can construct a stove of this type with a stove bench at home. This is the most complex design, so all other options are already included in it. Thus, the operating algorithm given below can be considered universal.

Construction drawing

You can take the following drawing as a basis (on the left is a stove, below is a sectional view of a stove bench, above is a diagram of the insulating lining).

Number 1 indicates:

• a – the blower is the main regulator of traction force; by moving the damper, you can increase or decrease the fire;
• b – chamber where fuel burns; the lid must close tightly so that the entire system is sealed;
• c – auxiliary blower, which is also called the secondary air supply channel; It is thanks to fresh portions of oxygen that all firewood and coal give off maximum energy, burning out almost completely;
• g – pipe standard diameter 15-20 cm;
• d – primary chimney with a standard diameter of 7-10 cm.

It is important to consider the following design features:

• The pipe should be of medium size - just determine it intuitively: not too long and not too short.
• The pipe is separated by a large layer of thermal insulation, because it is in this case that heat is supplied to the target surfaces - the stove bench. Expensive heat-resistant materials or adobe - clay with crushed straw - are used.
• The diameter of the pipe is determined by the main function of the system. If the main goal is to make a warm bed, the diameter is made quite small: 7-8 cm. If the main goal is to heat the room, the diameter is increased to 9-10 cm.

Number 2 indicates:

• a – a cover that closes the body;
• b – heating flat surface for cooking food using the energy of heated gases;
• c – insulating metal layer;
• d – channels into which heated gas enters and releases heat into the room;
• d – lower part of the body;
• e – gas release.

The most important thing to consider when designing and manufacturing this structural element is tightness. On the one hand, the reliability of all joints ensures fire safety. On the other hand, complete heating of all chimneys, without significant energy losses.

Numbers 3 and 4 indicate:

• a – an additional cleaning chamber for removing waste from chimneys located directly under the berth;
• b – the door of this chamber, ensuring the tightness of the entire system;
• 4 – a fragment of the chimney lying under the sleeping area (sometimes called a “hog”).

Finally, the number 5 indicates:

• a – a mixture of clay and straw, which plays the role of a heat insulator;
• b – a mixture of clay and crushed stone – this is the main thermal insulation layer; prepare a mixture of the same consistency as for laying a brick wall;
• c – heat-resistant lining (it can be made from sand and refractory clay, taken in equal mass quantities);
• g – sand;
• d – clay for laying stoves.

Installation of a bed

The sleeping area layout looks like this.

You can choose the dimensions yourself based on your needs. The technology is simple:

1. First, a frame is made from 10*10 cm square beams. The cell parameters are standard 60*90 cm under the stove itself and 60*120 cm under the sleeping area.
2. The frame is laid with tongue and groove wooden slats(width 4 cm).
3. Next, roundings are made if the design provides for such an option.
4. Cardboard made of special heat-resistant materials - made from basalt fibers - should be placed on the floor surface. In size, it completely follows the contours of the lounger, and its height should reach at least 0.5 cm.

NOTE. Under the surface of the oven, the cardboard is reinforced with a sheet of galvanized iron. Along the entire bed, pour adobe (clay with straw) and carefully level it along the sides. It should be understood that the solution takes 3-4 weeks to dry, so it is from this stage that the installation of the entire system begins.

Installation of the furnace body

Now - about the design of the rocket furnace itself. First of all, you need to make a body from a metal pipe, ideally a gas cylinder. The process diagram is shown below.

The technology is as follows:

1. Cut off the top of the cylinder. The hole is closed with a round timber made of hardened steel. Going down 5 cm to the bottom, an additional cut should be made to construct the lid.
2. A “skirt” made of a steel sheet of small thickness (2-3 mm) is welded along the edge of this cover.
3. Holes are installed in the skirt at equal intervals (for bolts).
4. The lower fragment of the balloon is cut off (indented by 7 cm).
5. A round hole is made at the bottom with parameters corresponding to the chimney, which will then go into the cylinder.
6. Then an asbestos cord should be glued to the inner surface of the lid and kept under pressure for several hours. It is this cord that will make the system completely sealed.
7. A thread is created in the cylinder body.
8. Next, remove the lid so that the asbestos retains its elasticity.

Installation of a fuel bunker

This is a fairly simple step that requires good welding skills. Welding of all fragments is carried out in accordance with the drawing. Moreover, the angle for supplying firewood is chosen to be quite sharp: 50-60 degrees. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. First, the main blower is mounted, and a secondary air supply channel is created in its lower quarter - to do this, just insert a heat-resistant steel plate (4-5 mm thick).
2. At the end of the pipe, a hole is created - the size of the continuation of the chimney (taking into account that the continuing pipe will go at an angle of 90°).
3. Next, install a door, with which you can increase or decrease the draft due to the air supply.
4. Next, you need to make a continuous lining, but the layer is applied only to the lower part, while the side surfaces and the top panel remain without lining.

NOTE. Applying the lining is a very important stage, since heating largely depends on the layer. If the solution drains, you need to reduce the portion and apply a new layer, and after it dries, the next one.

Pipe thermal insulation

The next stage is filling the formwork with a mixture of thermal insulation (along the height of the sides). As a result, the height of the formwork, taking into account the mixture, should be about 10-11 cm.

Drum and cleaning chamber

1. The shell is mounted using a pipe or steel sheet.
2. The bottom of the drum can also be made from metal sheet, in this case, a hole should be constructed in the middle with a diameter that is 4 mm smaller than the cylinder parameter.
3. The structure itself with the firebox is installed strictly straight, controlling the work using a building level.
4. The cleaning chamber must be made of galvanized steel sheet, which is resistant to thermal corrosion. You can take this drawing as a basis.

NOTE. The door leading to the chamber is made square shape 16*16 cm. In this case, first you need to install a gasket on the inner surface of the opening to ensure the tightness of the system.

Drum installation

The drum, which is made from a gas cylinder, is installed only after the mixture has completely dried in the formwork. It is removed, and the balloon is placed on top of the frozen mixture, which has formed a solid layer. The relative position of all elements is presented in the diagram.

Final stage

At the last stages you need to perform the following work:

1. Installation of a cleaning chamber.
2. Installation of a thermal insulation layer.
3. Filling the formwork with adobe (clay and straw).
4. Installation of corrugated pipe.

It is this kind of pipe that allows you to take into account any design features and make a turn anywhere at almost any angle. The specific direction and length depends on the design of the structure. The most common options are shown in the photo.

NOTE. Immediately before starting operation, the rocket stove must be checked. After the solution has dried, you need to light the paper or birch bark without adding firewood, much less coal. The oven should warm up well, and the humming sound should change to a rustling sound. Only after this can firewood be added.

And finally, a visual description of the process of making a rocket stove with a stove bench and a hob in the video.

A do-it-yourself rocket stove, the drawings of which most home craftsmen would probably like to have in their archives, can, in principle, be made even within one day, since its design is not at all complicated. If you have skills in working with tools, reading drawings, necessary materials, then making a simple stove of this type will not be special labor. It should be noted that it can be made from a variety of materials that are at hand, but much will depend on where the stove is planned to be installed. The rocket stove has a slightly different operating principle from other heating devices, and can be either stationary or portable.

Stationary rocket stoves are installed inside the house along the walls or on a designated area for cooking in the courtyard of the house. If the stove is installed indoors, it can heat a room up to 50 square meters. m.

Portable versions of the rocket stove usually have no small size and easily fits in the trunk of a car. Therefore, when going out, for example, to a picnic or to the dacha, such a stove will help you boil water and cook lunch. Moreover, the fuel consumption in the rocket stove is quite small; even dry branches, splinters or tufts of grass can be used as fuel.

The principle of operation of a rocket-type stove

Despite the simplicity of the design of the rocket stove, its design uses two operating principles, which the developers borrowed from other types of stoves operating on. So, for its effective operation, the following principles are taken:

• The principle of free circulation of gases released from fuel through the created stove channels, without the forced creation of chimney draft.
• The principle of afterburning pyrolysis gases released during fuel combustion in the mode of insufficient oxygen supply.

In the simplest designs of rocket stoves, which are used only for cooking, only the first principle of operation can operate, since in them it is quite difficult to create the necessary conditions for the flow of pyrolysis and the organization of afterburning of gases.

To understand the designs and understand how they work, you need to consider some of them one by one.

The simplest design of a rocket stove

To begin with, it is worth considering the simplest design of a direct combustion rocket stove. As a rule, such devices are used only for heating water or for cooking, and exclusively outdoors. As can be seen from the figure below, these are two sections of pipe connected by a bend at a right angle.

The firebox for this furnace design is the horizontal part of the pipe, and fuel is placed in it. Often the firebox has a vertical loading - in this case, for the production the simplest stove three elements are used - these are two pipes of different heights, installed vertically and connected from below by a common horizontal channel. The lower pipe will serve as a firebox. To manufacture a stationary version of the simplest design scheme, it is often used, installed on a heat-resistant solution.

To achieve higher efficiency, the furnace was improved, and additional elements appeared, for example, the pipe began to be installed in a housing, which increases the heating of the structure.

1 – outer metal body of the furnace.

2 – pipe – combustion chamber.

3 – a channel formed by a jumper under the fuel chamber and intended for the free passage of air into the combustion area.

4 – the space between the pipe (riser) and the body, densely filled with a heat-insulating composition, for example, ash.

The furnace is heated as follows. A light combustible material, such as paper, is first placed in the firebox, and when it flares up, wood chips or other main fuel are thrown into the fire. As a result of the intense combustion process, hot gases are formed, rising through the vertical channel of the pipe and escaping outside. A container for boiling water or cooking food is installed on the open section of the pipe.

An important condition for the intensity of fuel combustion is the creation of a gap between the pipe and the installed container. If its hole is completely blocked, then combustion inside the structure will stop, since there will be no draft that supplies air to the combustion area and lifts the heated gases upward. To avoid problems with this, a removable or stationary stand for the container is installed on the upper edge of the pipe.

This diagram shows a simple design with a door installed on the loading opening. And to create draft, a special channel is provided, which is formed by the lower wall of the combustion chamber and a plate welded at a distance of 7÷10 mm from it. Even if the firebox door is completely closed, the air supply will not stop. In this scheme, the second principle is already beginning to work - without active access of oxygen to the burning, the process of pyrolysis can begin, and the continuous supply of “secondary” air will contribute to the afterburning of the released gases. But for a full-fledged process, one more important condition is still missing - high-quality thermal insulation of the secondary combustion chamber, since the combustion process of gases requires certain temperature conditions.

1 – air channel in the combustion chamber, through which air is blown when the firebox door is closed;

2 - zone of the most active heat exchange;

3 – upward flow of hot gases.

Video: a version of the simplest rocket stove from an old cylinder

Improved rocket furnace design

The design, intended for both cooking and heating the room, is equipped not only with a combustion door and a second body, which serves as a good external heat exchanger, but also with an upper hob. Such a rocket stove can already be installed inside the house, and the chimney pipe from it is led outside. After such a modernization of the furnace, its efficiency increases significantly, since the device acquires many useful properties:

• Due to the second outer casing and insulating heat-resistant materials that thermally insulate the main pipe of the furnace (riser), hermetically sealing the upper part of the structure, the heated air maintains a high temperature for much longer.

• A channel for supplying secondary air was installed in the lower part of the body, successfully providing the necessary air supply, for which an open firebox was used in the simplest design.
• The flue pipe in a closed design is not located at the top, as in a simple rocket stove, but at the lower rear part of the body. Thanks to this, the heated air does not go directly into the chimney, but is able to circulate through the internal channels of the device, heating, first of all, the hob, and then diverging inside the housing, ensuring its heating. In turn, the outer casing gives off heat to the air around it.

This diagram clearly shows the entire process of operation of the stove: in the fuel bunker (item 1), preliminary combustion of fuel (item 2) occurs in the insufficient air supply mode “A” - this is regulated by a damper (item 3). The resulting hot pyrolysis gases enter the end of the horizontal fire channel (item 5), where they are burned. This process takes place thanks to good thermal insulation and the continuous supply of “secondary” air “B” through a specially designed channel (item 4).

Next, hot air rushes into inner tube structure, called a riser (item 7), rises along it to the “ceiling” of the housing, which is the hob (item 10), providing its high-temperature heating. Then the gas flow passes through the space between the riser and the outer drum housing (item 6), heating the housing for further heat exchange with the air in the room. Then the gases go down and only after that they go into the chimney pipe (pos. 11).

To achieve maximum heat transfer from fuel and provide the necessary conditions for complete combustion of pyrolysis gases, important has the ability to maintain the highest and most stable temperature in the riser channel (item 7). To do this, the riser pipe is enclosed in another pipe of larger diameter - the shell (item 8), and the space between them is tightly packed with a heat-resistant mineral composition (item 9), which will serve as thermal insulation (a kind of lining). For these purposes, for example, a mixture of kiln masonry clay with fireclay sand (in a 1:1 ratio) can be used. Some craftsmen prefer to simply fill this space very tightly with sifted sand.

The design of this version of the rocket stove consists of the following components and elements:

• A lid-closable firebox with vertical fuel loading with a secondary air intake chamber located in its lower part.
• The furnace goes into a horizontally located fire channel, at the end of which the pyrolysis gas is burned.
• The hot gas flow rises through a vertical channel (riser) to the hermetically sealed “ceiling” of the housing, where it transfers part of the thermal energy to the horizontal plate - the hob. Then, under the pressure of hotter gases following, it diverges into heat exchange channels, giving off heat to the surfaces of the drum, and falls down.
• At the bottom of the stove there is an entrance to horizontal pipe channels that run under the entire surface of the stove bench. Moreover, in this space one, two or more turns of corrugated pipe can be laid in the form of a coil, through which hot air circulates, heating the stove bench. This heat exchange pipeline is connected at the end to a chimney pipe led outside through the wall of the house.

• It should be noted that if the bench is made of brick, the channels can also be laid out of this material, without the use of metal corrugated pipes.
• The heated stove and bench, releasing heat into the room, will themselves serve as a kind of “battery”, capable of heating an area of ​​up to 50 m².

The metal drum of the furnace can be made of a barrel, gas cylinder or other durable containers, and also made of brick. Usually the material is chosen by the craftsmen themselves according to their financial capabilities and ease of work.

A rocket stove with a brick bench looks neater and is somewhat easier to install than a clay version, but the cost of materials will be about the same.

Video: another original solution to increase the heating efficiency of a rocket furnace

We foldmade of brickrocket stovewith a bed

What is needed for the job?

The brick heating structure proposed for execution is designed on the principle of a rocket stove. The size of the structure with standard brick parameters (250 × 120 × 65 mm) will be 2540 × 1030 × 1620 mm.

Our task is to build such an original rocket stove with a warm bed out of brick

It should be noted that the design is divided into three parts:

• The oven itself – its size is 505×1620×580 mm;
• Firebox – 390×250×400 mm;
• Bed 1905×755×620 mm + 120 mm headrest.

To lay the stove you will need the following materials:

• Red brick – 435 pcs.;
• Blower door 140×140 mm – 1 pc.;
• Cleaning door 140×140 mm – 1 pc.;
• A fire door is desirable (250×120 mm - 1 piece), otherwise there is a risk of smoke in the room.
• Hob 505×580 mm – 1 pc.;
• Rear metal shelf panel 370×365 mm – 1 pc.;
• Asbestos sheet 2.5÷3 mm thick to create a gasket between metal elements and brick.
• Chimney pipe, 150 mm in diameter, with a 90˚ outlet.
• Clay and sand for mortar or a ready-made heat-resistant mixture. It should be noted here that for 100 bricks laid flat, with a joint width of 5 mm, 20 liters of mortar will be required.

The design of this rocket stove with vertical loading is quite simple, trouble-free and efficient in operation, but only if its masonry is done with high quality, in full accordance with the order.

If you have no experience as a mason or stove maker, but have a strong desire to install such a heating device yourself, you should play it safe and first lay the structure “dry”, without mortar. This process will help you figure out the location of the bricks in each row.

In addition, to ensure that the seams are the same width, it is recommended to prepare gauge wooden or plastic slats for masonry, which will be laid on the previous row before laying the next one. Once the solution has set, it will be easy to remove them.

Under the laying of such a stove it is necessary to have a flat and solid foundation. Despite the fact that the design is quite compact and its weight is not as great as, for example, a Russian stove, a floor laid with thin boards will not be suitable for its installation. In the case where the floor, although wooden, is very durable, before starting laying under the future stove, it is necessary to lay and secure a heat-resistant material, for example, asbestos 5 mm thick.

Order of a brick rocket stove with a stove bench:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row is laid out solid, and the brick must lie in exact accordance with the pattern shown in the diagram - this will give strength to the entire base. For masonry you will need 62 red bricks. The diagram clearly shows the connection of all three sections of the furnace. The corners on the side bricks of the firebox facade are cut off or rounded - this way the structure will look neat.
	Second row. At this stage of the work, internal smoke exhaust channels are laid through which gases heated in the firebox will pass, giving off heat to the bricks of the stove bench. The channels connect to the combustion chamber, which also begins to form in this row. The first brick of the wall separating the two channels under the stove bench is cut diagonally - this “nook” will collect unburnt combustion products, and the cleaning door installed opposite the bevel will allow you to easily clean it. To lay a row you will need 44 bricks.
	On the second row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are mounted, which are necessary for periodically tidying up the ash chamber and internal horizontal channels. The doors are secured with wire, which is twisted onto the ears of the cast iron elements and then inserted into the masonry seams.
	Third row. It almost completely repeats the configuration of the second row, but, of course, taking into account the laying in a bandage, and therefore it will also require 44 bricks.
	Fourth row. At this stage, the channels running inside the couch are blocked with a continuous layer of brick. A firebox opening is left, and a channel is formed that will heat the hob and discharge combustion products into the chimney pipe. In addition, a rotating horizontal channel is blocked from above, which removes heated air under the stove bench. To lay a row you need to prepare 59 bricks.
	Fifth row. The next stage is covering the bed with a second cross layer of brick. The smoke exhaust ducts and firebox also continue to be removed. 60 bricks are prepared for a row.
	Sixth row. The first row of the headrest of the couch is laid out, and the part of the stove on which the hob will be installed begins to rise. It still has smoke exhaust ducts. A row requires 17 bricks.
	Seventh row. The laying of the headrest is completed, for which bricks cut diagonally are used. The second row of the base under the hob rises. Laying will require 18 bricks.
	Eighth row. The furnace structure with three channels is being laid. You will need 14 bricks.
	The ninth and tenth rows are similar to the previous, eighth, they are laid out according to the same pattern, alternately, intertwined. 14 bricks are used for each row.
	11th row. Continuation of masonry according to the scheme. This row will take 13 bricks.
	12th row. At this stage, a hole is formed for installing the chimney pipe. The hole supplied under the stove is equipped with a brick cut obliquely for a smoother flow of heated air into the adjacent channel leading to the lower horizontal channels located in the stove bench. 11 bricks were used per row.
	13th row. A base for the slab is formed, and the central and side channels are combined. It is through this that hot air will flow under the stove, and then flow into the vertical channel leading under the stove bench. 10 bricks are laid.
	13th row. On the same row, the base for laying the hob is prepared. To do this, a heat-resistant material - asbestos - is laid around the perimeter of the space in which two vertical channels were combined.
	13th row. Then, a solid metal plate is laid on the asbestos pad. In this case, it is not recommended to install a hob with opening burners, since when they open, smoke may enter the room.
	14th row. The opening for the chimney pipe is closed and the wall is raised, separating the hob from the stove bench area. Only 5 bricks are used for a row.
	15th row. This row raising the wall will also require 5 bricks.
	15th row. On the same row, in continuation of the back wall, next to the hob, a metal shelf, which can be used as a cutting board. It is attached to brackets.
	15th row. The picture diagram shows well how a hob can be used. In this case, the pan is placed exactly on that section of the stove that will warm up first, since a hot air flow will pass under it.
	After completing all the work described in the order, a chimney pipe is built into the hole at the back of the stove, which is led out to the street.
	From the back, the design also looks quite neat, so it can be installed either near the wall or in the middle of the room. This stove is perfect for heating a country house. If you decorate the stove and chimney finishing materials, then the structure can become an original addition, and a very functional one, for any private home. As you can see, the corner formed under the cutting shelf is very convenient for drying and storing firewood.
	To fully examine the structure, you need to see its projection from the end side.
	And the last picture clearly shows what should happen as a result of the work done, if you look at the stove from the side of the stove bench.

In conclusion, I would like to especially note that the design of a rocket stove can be called one of the simplest and most accessible for self-production, compared to other heating devices. Therefore, if a similar goal has been set - to acquire a stove in the house, but there is clearly not enough experience in such work, then it is best to choose this option, since when building it, it is difficult to make a mistake in the configuration of its internal channels.

Today, quite a lot of varieties and models of wood-burning stoves have been developed and implemented. In this series, the do-it-yourself rocket stove, the drawings of which will be presented below, fully meets all expectations. Such a heating structure certainly deserves close attention, as it has some specific advantages that are indispensable in certain conditions.

This version of a wood-burning stove is simple and original in design and does not require a large number of expensive components and materials for production. Probably anyone can install such a stove by making it on their own, even if they do not have experience in constructing such structures, but can read the provided drawings and work with some tools.

It is interesting to note that, if necessary, a rocket stove can be made even in 20–30 minutes, for example, from an iron can. However, if you make every effort, it is possible to get a comfortable stationary structure for your home with a heated couch that can even replace an ordinary sofa. At the same time, a rocket stove will not require complex arrangements, like bell-type or Russian stoves, which are massive structures.

Operating principle of the rocket stove

The rocket stove was originally conceived as one of the functional survival items in difficult conditions. Therefore, its design had to meet certain criteria:

• Efficient room heating.
• Possibility of cooking.
• High efficiency of the device when used for heating of various wood fuels of any quality.
• The ability to add fuel without stopping the combustion process.
• In addition, the stove had to retain heat for at least 6-7 hours to allow the owners to spend the night in comfortable conditions.
• Maximum safety of the design, in terms of eliminating the possibility of carbon monoxide leaking into the room.
• Another condition that had to be met was the simplicity and accessibility of the design for its manufacture by any non-professional.

Therefore, we took as a basis basic principles several types of heating devices using wood solid fuel:

• Free circulation of heated air and gases through all channels. The stove operates without forced air, and the draft is created by a chimney that draws out combustion products. The higher the pipe is raised, the more intense the draft.
• The principle of afterburning gases released during combustion from fuel (pyrolysis), which is used in long-burning devices. This operating principle is extremely important due to the high efficiency of the device, which is achieved by creating special conditions for the afterburning of pyrolysis gases for the most complete use of the energy potential contained in the fuel.

The term “pyrolysis” means the decomposition of solid fuel into volatile substances under the influence of high temperatures and simultaneous “oxygen starvation”. Under certain conditions, they are capable of burning, also releasing a large amount of thermal energy. It is important to know that the pyrolysis of insufficiently dried wood takes quite a long time in the gas phase, that is, the released pyrolysis gas will require a lot of heat to create a mixture (wood gas) that can burn completely. Therefore, it is not recommended to use wet fuel for a rocket stove.

Variety of rocket stoves - from simple to complex

The simplest design of a rocket stove

In a simple design of a rocket stove, heated by bunches of branches or splinters, combustion products are almost immediately sent into the chimney, without having time to form flammable wood gas in the stove body, so it will not be possible to heat the room with it. Such ovens can only be used for cooking. This model is manufactured in stationary and mobile versions; it only operates on the principle of free circulation of heated air, since the required conditions are not created in it for a full-fledged pyrolysis process.

In such furnaces, a small section of pipe is used as a fuel chamber. It can have a horizontal position, as shown in the diagram, or be turned upward. In the latter case, fuel is loaded vertically.

After igniting the fuel placed in the pipe, the heated gases released from it rush up the vertical section of the pipe to the outside.

Containers for cooking or heating water are installed on top of the vertical pipe. To ensure that gases escape freely and the bottom of the container does not completely block the draft in the pipe, a special metal stand is installed on top of the stove. She creates gap the right size, which Helps maintain cravings.

From above - very original stand under a container with heated water

By the way, this simplest type of furnace device was the first to be invented, and because of the upward opening of the firebox and the flame escaping from it, the furnace most likely received the name rocket. In addition, when wrong mode firebox, the design emits a whistling “rocket” hum, but if the stove is configured correctly, it rustles quietly.

Advanced Rocket Stove

Since it is impossible to heat the room using the simplest rocket stove with a free exit of gases, the design was later supplemented with a heat exchanger and smoke exhaust ducts.

After the improvements, the entire operating principle of the rocket stove has changed somewhat.

• To maintain the high temperature of heated air in a vertical pipe, it was insulated with fire-resistant material, and then covered on top with another metal casing made from a larger diameter pipe or a metal barrel with a closed top.
• A door was installed on the opening of the firebox, and a separate channel for secondary air appeared in the lower part of the furnace. Through it, blowing began to take place (necessary for afterburning pyrolysis gases), which previously occurred through an open firebox.
• In addition, the chimney pipe was moved to the lower part of the body, which forced the heated air to circulate throughout the body, going around all the internal channels, rather than going directly into the atmosphere.

• The combustion products, which have a high temperature, first began to rise to the ceiling of the outer casing, accumulate there and heat it, which made it possible to use the outer horizontal surface as a hob. Then, the flow of gases cools down and goes down, turns into an elbow and only from there goes into the chimney pipe.
• Thanks to the intake of secondary air, gases are burned at the end of the lower horizontal channel, which significantly increases the efficiency of the furnace. The free circulation of gases creates a self-regulating system that limits the flow of air into the combustion chamber, since it is supplied only as the hot gases cool under the “ceiling” of the housing.

A very popular scheme is from metal profile and an old gas cylinder

The stove model shown in the figure operates like a “stove stove” and has a chimney leading outside. However, it is unsuitable for use in residential premises, since, due to changes in external pressure, reverse draft may occur, which will contribute to the entry of carbon monoxide into the room. Therefore, such a stove should always be supervised, and it is most often used for heating utility rooms or a garage.

Rocket stove with a warm bed

A rocket stove with a stove bench is also constructed on the principle of afterburning pyrolysis gases, but in this version the heat exchanger is a structure of combined long channels coming from the stove and laid or formed from non-flammable plastic materials under the surface of the stove bench.

It should be noted that such a heating system is by no means new, and, in fact, such a rocket stove has quite rich history. It was invented a long time ago, presumably in Manchuria, called “kan”, and is still traditional for peasant houses in China and Korea.

Similar stoves called “kan” have long been used to heat homes in East Asia.

The system is a wide bed made of stone, brick and clay, inside which The air heated in the stove passes through the arranged channels, which are essentially an elongated chimney. Passing through this labyrinth and gradually giving off heat, the gas flow, cooling, exits into a chimney with a height of 3000 ÷ 3500 mm, located on the street, next to the house.

The stove itself is located at one end of the stove bench and, as a rule, is equipped with a hob, which allows it to be used for cooking.

On top of the stone-clay structure “kan” is covered with straw or bamboo mats, or it is arranged there wood flooring. At night, the couches were used as beds, and during the day - in the form of a seat, on which, traditionally for Asian peoples, a special low table 300 mm high was installed - meals were taken behind it.

This heating system is quite economical in terms of fuel consumption, since to heat it it is enough to use a medium-thick branch. This rocket stove can retain heat for a long time, creating comfortable conditions for sleeping throughout the night.

And Korean “ondol” stoves probably became the prototypes of modern “warm floors”

Korean homes use a heating system similar to “kan”, which is called “ondol”. This heating option, unlike the Chinese one, is installed not inside the couch, but under the entire floor of the house. In principle, it can be argued that this method of transferring and distributing heat into living spaces seems to form the basis for the design of the modern “warm floor” system.

Furnace design with connected the pipes to it can be clearly seen in the diagram presented.

Nowadays, with the modern rich variety of materials, the channels in this furnace design can be made of metal pipes laid in the form of a coil and well insulated with non-flammable materials. Therefore, the last section of the chimney system can exit from the structure of the stove next to the stove itself or at the end of the stove, and then go through the wall into a chimney installed on the street.

In the presented diagram you can see the results of the design work, which made it possible to achieve a relative simplicity of the scheme, which has high efficiency, and also meets all the requirements for a speech rocket.

Fuel is loaded vertically into the combustion hole. Then it is set on fire, and, burning out, gradually settles down. The air that supports combustion enters the bottom of the combustion chamber through an opening that acts as a blower. It must provide sufficient air flow for afterburning of the released products of thermal decomposition of wood. But, at the same time, there should not be too much air, since it can cool the initially released gases, and in this case, the process of afterburning the pyrolysis gases will not be able to take place, and the combustion products will settle on the walls of the housing.

In this version, the vertical loading furnace has the chamber has a blind cover, which will eliminate the risk of gases entering the room when creating reverse draft.

In a completely isolated volume of released gas, thermal energy is generated, temperature and pressure rise, and thrust increases. As the fuel burns, the burning gases escape through the channels of the furnace body into the heat exchanger, heating the internal surfaces along the way. Since the channels have a complex configuration, gases are retained inside the furnace for a longer time, giving off heat to the body and surfaces of the channels, which, in turn, they heat the surface of the couch and, accordingly, the room itself.

Over time, any furnace and its ducts require cleaning of soot deposits. In this design, the problem area is the heat exchanger pipes located inside the bench. In order to carry out these without problems preventive actions, at the level of rotation of the heat exchanger from the furnace body into the pipes under the stove bench, a hermetically sealed cleaning door is installed (indicated “Secondary Airtight Ash Pit” in the diagram). It is in this place that all unburnt products of thermal decomposition of wood concentrate and settle. The door is periodically opened and the passages are cleared of soot - this process guarantees long-term operation of the chimney. In order for the door to close tightly, asbestos gaskets must be secured to its inner edges.

How to properly heat a rocket stove?

To get the maximum heating effect, it is recommended to preheat the stove before adding the bulk of the fuel. This process is carried out using paper, dry shavings or sawdust, which are set on fire in the firebox. When the system warms up, it will change the sound it makes - it may fade out or change its tone. The main fuel is placed into the heated unit, which will ignite from the heat already created by heating.

Any firewood and even thin branches are suitable for the rocket stove, but the main thing is that they be dry.

Until the fuel burns well, the combustion chamber or ash door must be kept open . But only when the fire becomes intense and the stove begins to hum, the door is closed. Then, during the combustion process, the access of air from the ashpit is gradually blocked - here you need to focus on the tonality of the sound of the stove. If the air damper accidentally closes and the intensity of the flame decreases, it must be opened slightly again and the stove will flare up with renewed vigor.

Advantages and disadvantages of the rocket stove

Before moving on to a description of the manufacturing process of a rocket stove, it is advisable to summarize information about its advantages and disadvantages.

Rocket stoves are quite popular due to their positive qualities , which include:

• Simplicity of design and small amount of materials.
• Even a novice master can make any of the furnace designs, if desired.
• The construction of a rocket stove does not require the purchase of expensive building materials.
• Undemanding requirement for forced chimney draft, self-regulation of stove operation.
• High efficiency rocket furnace with a pyrolysis gas afterburning system.
• Possibility of adding fuel while firing the stove.

Despite the large number of advantages of this design, its operation also has a number of shortcomings :

• When using the simplest design of a rocket stove, you can use only dry branches and splinters, since excess moisture can cause backdraft. In a more complex device system, the use of damp wood is also not recommended, because it will not provide the required temperature for pyrolysis to occur.
• The rocket stove cannot be left unattended during combustion, as this is very unsafe.
• This type of device is unsuitable for heating a bathhouse, since it does not give off enough heat in the infrared range, which is especially important for a steam room. A rocket stove with a stove bench can only be suitable for the recreation room of a sauna building.

Video: special opinion on rocket stoves

Making a rocket stove with a stove bench

Rocket stoves can have different size, and a variety of materials are used for their manufacture - these are metal pipes, barrels and gas cylinders, bricks and clay. A combined option consisting of pipes, stones, clay and sand is also quite acceptable. It is he who deserves special attention.

From a gas cylinder you can make a stove that is simple in design, including using it for a version with a stove bench.

How to make a simple stove itself is more or less clear from the drawings presented above and the description of its operation, so it is worth considering the manufacture of a heating unit, specifically equipped with a stove bench.

Video: homemade rocket stove from a gas cylinder

You might be interested in information on how to do it with step-by-step instructions

To make it completely clear what and where is located in the design of the rocket furnace, this diagram will be used to describe the work.

So, the rocket stove in question consists of the following elements:

• 1a– a blower with an air supply regulator, with the help of which the oven is adjusted to the desired mode;
• 1b– fuel chamber (hopper) with a blind lid;
• 1c– a channel for supplying secondary air, ensuring complete combustion of pyrolysis gases released by wood;
• 1g– flame tube 150÷200 mm long;
• 1d– primary chimney (riser), with a diameter of 70÷100 mm.

The flame tube should not be made too long or short. If this element is too long, then the secondary air in it will quickly cool down and the process of afterburning the pyrolysis gases will not reach completion.

The entire structure of the flame pipe and riser must be thermally insulated as efficiently as possible. The task of this unit is to ensure complete combustion of pyrolysis gases and supply hot masses from the riser to other channels, which will already transfer heat to the room and to the bench.

It should be noted here that in order to obtain optimal efficiency from the furnace, the diameter R The azer should be made with a size of 70 mm, and if the goal is to achieve maximum furnace power, then it should be made with a diameter of 100 mm. In this case, the length of the flame tube should be 150÷200 mm. Further, when describing the installation of the furnace, dimensions will be given for both cases.

It is impossible to immediately pass heated air from the riser into the heat accumulator, since its temperature reaches 900÷1000 degrees. High-quality heat-resistant heat-accumulating materials have a fairly high price, therefore, most often, adobe (clay mixed with chopped straw) is used for these purposes. This material has a high heat capacity potential, but is not heat resistant, so the design of the secondary furnace (cylinder body) begins with an air temperature converter, which must be heated to only 300 degrees. Part of the generated heat is immediately released into the room and replenishes current heat loss.

The described functions are performed by the furnace body, made from a standard 50 liter gas cylinder.

• 2a– furnace body cover. Heated air enters under it from the riser;
• 2b– a cooking surface that is heated from the inside by heated gases escaping from the riser;
• 2v– metal insulation of the riser (shell);
• 2g– heat exchange channels. Heated gas enters them, diverging under the ceiling of the housing;
• 2d– lower metal part of the body;
• 2e– exit from the housing to the cleaning chamber.

The main task when arranging these parts of the furnace is to ensure complete tightness of the smoke exhaust line.

In the housing (drum), at a height ⅓ from its “ceiling”, the gases cool down and already have normal temperature to enter them into storage. From approximately this height to the floor of the room, the oven thermally insulated several layers of different compositions - this process is called lining.

• 3a– the second cleaning chamber, through which the heat exchanger (“hog”) located under the stove bench is cleaned of carbon deposits;
• 3b– sealed door of the second cleaning chamber;
• 4 - “hog”, a long horizontal section of the chimney located under the stove bench.

Having passed through the “hog” pipes and almost completely transferred the heat to the adobe bench, the gases escape through the main chimney channel into the atmosphere.

Having understood the structure of the rocket furnace in detail, you can proceed to its construction.

Construction of a rocket stove with a stove bench - step by step

First of all, you need to prepare lining compounds. Their components will cost very little, since they can often be found completely free, literally right under your feet:

• 5a– adobe. As mentioned above, this is clay mixed with chopped straw and mixed with water until thick masonry mortar. Any clay for making adobe is suitable, since it will not be influenced by external atmospheric influences;
• 5 B– oven clay mixed with crushed stone. This will be the main heat insulator. The mortar should have the consistency of a bricklaying mixture;
• 5v– heat-resistant lining made of oven clay and fireclay sand in proportions 1:1 and having the consistency of plasticine;
• 5g– ordinary sifted sand;
• 5d – medium-fat clay for stove masonry.

Step-by-step work on the design is carried out in the following sequence:

Bed for the couch

Having prepared all the necessary compositions, a bed is made - a durable wooden shield of the required configuration. Its frame is made of timber with a cross-section of 100×100 mm. Frame - with cells measuring 600x900 mm under the stove and 600x1200 mm under the stove bench. If a curvilinear shape of the bed is planned, then it is brought to the desired configuration with the help of boards and scraps of timber.

The bed is a frame base for the further construction of the furnace structure

The frame is sheathed with a tongue and groove board 40 mm thick - it is fixed across the long sides of the frame. Later, after the installation of the stove is completed, the side façade of the bed will be covered with plasterboard. All details wooden structure beds must be impregnated with biocide and then painted twice with a water-based emulsion.

Next, on the floor, in the place of the room where the stove will be installed, mineral cardboard (cardboard made of basalt fibers) 4 mm thick, the size and shape completely corresponding to the parameters of the bed, is laid. Directly under the stove, a sheet of roofing iron is fixed on top of the cardboard, which will extend 200–300 mm from under the stove in front of the firebox.

Then, the bed is transferred and firmly installed on the selected and covered location oven, so that the frame stands stable, without play. At the end of the future bed, at a height of 120–140 mm above the bed level, a hole for the chimney is made in the wall.

Formwork and pouring the first level of adobe mixture

A durable formwork is installed along the entire contour of the bed, having a height (A -40÷50 mm) and a smooth upper edge.

The adobe mixture (5a) is poured into the formwork and its surface is leveled using the rule. The sides of the formwork serve as beacons for leveling.

Manufacturing of the furnace body

• While the adobe filling dries, and this process will take 2-3 weeks, you can start making the stove body from a cylinder. It should be noted that a rocket stove is made from a barrel in exactly the same way.

Cutting a gas cylinder and making a lid with a “skirt”

• The first step is to cut off the top of the empty cylinder to obtain a hole with a diameter of 200÷220 mm. Next, this hole is closed with a pre-prepared steel round timber 4 mm thick - this surface will play a role hob. After this, another cut is made 50÷60 mm below the hob to form a lid.
• It is welded along the outer perimeter of the resulting cover, so-called“skirt” made of thin sheet steel. The width of the skirt should be 50÷60 mm, the seam of this strip is welded. If you have no experience in welding, then it is better to entrust this process to a professional.
• After this, along the entire circumference of the skirt, stepping back from the bottom edge of 20÷25 mm, holes are evenly drilled into which the bolts will be screwed.
• Next, the lower empty part of the cylinder is cut off at a height of approximately 70 mm from the bottom. Then, a hole is cut in the bottom of the cylinder to allow the riser to enter the body.
• After this, it is necessary to attach a well-woven asbestos cord to the inner edge of the lid using Moment glue, and then immediately put it on the body of the cylinder and press it on top with a load of 2.5–3 kg. The cord will serve as a sealing gasket. Next, through the holes in the metal “skirt”, through holes are drilled in the cylinder body, in which threads are cut for the bolts.
• After this, you need to measure the depth of the case, since it is necessary to determine the height of the riser.
• Then the cap is removed from the cylinder to protect the gasket from being completely saturated with glue, otherwise the asbestos will lose its elasticity.

Manufacturing of the furnace combustion part

The next step from square pipe(or channel) with a cross-section of 150×150 mm, the following elements are made: 1a - blower, 1b - combustion chamber; 1g - heat channel.

The riser (1d) is made from a round pipe with a diameter of 70÷100 mm.

The angle of insertion of the combustion chamber (hopper) into the blower and flame pipe can vary within 45÷60 degrees from the horizontal. Its upper edge is placed flush with the blower element protruding forward, as shown in the diagram.

At the bottom of the blower and flame pipes, you need to separate the secondary air channel (1c). It is separated by a metal plate 3÷4 mm thick. Its rear edge should end exactly at the level of the front wall of the riser, and the front edge should extend forward of the blower by 25÷30 mm. The plate is pinched in four places by welding inside the pipe.

Then, at the end of the flame tube, a hole is cut out from above, into which the riser is welded at a right angle, and the end of this channel is closed with a metal square, also secured by welding.

Must be installed on the blower door - latch, which will help regulate the air supply. The combustion chamber lid is made of galvanized metal. The bunker does not require a hermetically sealed closure - the main thing is that the lid fits tightly to the inlet.

After this, the finished structure is coated with a 5B solution. A continuous lining is made only at the bottom, and the sides and top of the blower are left free of lining. To make the coating mixture dry faster, the structure is placed on the pole with a blower chamber. It is necessary to ensure that the mixture does not slide off the surfaces or disgrace, since the lining plays a big role in retaining heat. If this happens, then the coating must be done again, using thicker clay.

Insulation for rocket stove

After the adobe layer has dried, formwork is installed to provide heat-resistant thermal insulation for the furnace. It is done only under the location of the stove. The height of the formwork together with the adobe layer will be 100÷110 mm.

The installed formwork is filled with composition 5b and leveled along the beacons, which will serve as the sides of the formwork. In the main diagram this layer is designated by the letter B.

Manufacturing of the drum bottom and shell

The shell is made of a round pipe with a diameter of 150÷200 mm or it is rolled up from a steel sheet.

The bottom round timber, which will be placed inside the drum, is cut from sheet metal 1.5÷2 mm thick, and a round hole is cut in the middle of it. The diameter of the circle of this element should be 4 mm less than the internal size of the cylinder, and the diameter of the middle cutout for the shell should be 3 mm larger than its outer diameter.

Installation of the combustion structure

After the thermal insulation layer has dried in the formwork, the combustion structure is mounted on it. It is installed by controlling the level vertically and horizontally, and then fixed to the heat-insulating layer using pegs. Then, formwork with a height of 350÷370 mm from the floor is installed around the furnace. Here you need to take into account that the cleaning chamber (3a) and its door (3b) must be installed next to the frozen mixture (5b) with which the formwork will be filled. The connection (2e) of the cleaning chamber with the heat exchange channel (2d) will pass over the lining composition poured into the formwork. The mixture is also leveled to perfection, level with formwork, using rules.

Cleaning chamber

While the mixture dries in the formwork, you can start making a cleaning chamber with a door and a transition to the heat exchanger. It is made of galvanized steel, 1.5÷2 mm thick, and its front part is made of metal 4÷6 mm thick. A hole with a diameter of 150÷180 mm is cut in the side of the cleaning chamber to install the end of the chimney pipe, which will pass under the bed.

The cleaning chamber door is made with dimensions of 160×160 mm, also from steel 4÷6 mm. Before installing it, a sealing gasket made of mineral cardboard is installed around the perimeter of the inner surface. The door itself is screwed to the camera box with fastening bolts, for which threads are cut in the drilled holes.

This diagram shows the dimensions of all elements and the location of installation and connection of the chamber with the drum (cylinder). Next, after trying on the elements, a window 70 mm in size is cut out in the lower part of the furnace drum, into which the connecting channel (2e) will be installed by welding.

The corrugated pipes under the bed can be located arbitrarily, depending on the configuration of the bed; it is only important to adhere to the dimensions indicated on the drawing for the manufacture of the cleaning chamber, indicated under the letters A, B and C. How to correctly attach the “hog” pipe will be discussed below.

Drum installation

When the solution in the formwork dries, it is removed. A combustion system drum made from a gas cylinder is placed on the riser, on top of the hardened thermal insulation. The drum is currently installed without a cover - its installation is shown in the diagram presented.

Solution 5b is laid out on the bottom of the installed drum, and with the help of a spatula, an inclined surface of 6-8 degrees is formed from it, towards the exit window of the cleaning chamber. Then, a round piece of metal sheet is put on the riser and lowered to the bottom of the drum and pressed against the laid mortar. The solution is removed from the middle hole around the riser, otherwise it will be impossible to install the shell pipe. After this, the pipe itself is put on the riser into the freed space and lightly screwed into the solution. All gaps formed in the external and inner contour, coated with clay (5d).

Lining the fuel structure from the inside

After installing the shell and hearth, there is no need to wait for the thermal insulation solution to dry; you can immediately proceed to lining the riser. The composition (5 g) is poured into the shell, around the riser, in 6–7 layers. Each layer must be compacted as much as possible, while wetting the dry mixture with water from a spray bottle. From above, this space filled with sand is covered with a clay layer (cork) 50÷60 mm thick, using a 5d solution.

Installation of the cleaning chamber

After installing the drum, you need to install a cleaning chamber. Installing the box is not difficult - to do this, a layer of 5d solution, which has a thickness of 3÷4 mm, is applied to the transition channel and the hole in the drum, as well as to the side and bottom of the box. The box is installed in place, and the window of the transition channel (2e) is inserted into the prepared hole of the drum and pressed well and pressed down. The solution that appears on the sides is immediately smeared. The entrance of the cleaning chamber to the drum must be well sealed, therefore, if there are gaps left, they must be sealed well.

Laying the thermal insulation layer

Formwork for level D

Next, formwork is installed along the outer contour of the bed, just as in the manufacture of level A. The height of this level D must be determined, focusing on the hole for connecting the “hog”. Above the upper edge of the hole, the level should be raised by approximately 80÷100 mm.

Filling the formwork

The next step is to fill the formwork with adobe solution (5a) to the lower edge of the hole prepared for installing a “hog” in the cleaning chamber On the one side, and at the end of the bench - to the lower edge of the outlet for the chimney.

The mixture is laid out and leveled manually, while ensuring that the mixture adheres as closely as possible to the previous layer. Thus, from the cleaning chamber to the chimney outlet a rise is formed for “hog” pipes, the height difference of which should be 15÷30 mm. This design is necessary to ensure that the bed warms up evenly.

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Corrugated pipe installation

The next step is to stretch the corrugated pipe over the entire length of the bed. One end of it is connected to the cleaning chamber, inserted into the hole to a depth of 20÷25 mm and flaring inside the chamber with a flathead screwdriver through the cleaning door. Then the entrance of the pipe to the ash pan is coated with 5d solution, and the beginning of the pipe 150÷200 mm is coated with adobe. This will secure the pipe well in the desired position and prevent it from slipping out of the hole during further work.

After this, the pipe in the formwork is laid in the form of a coil, but it should always be at a distance of about 100 mm from the edges of the formwork and the wall. During the installation process, the pipe is pressed into the adobe layer laid underneath. Having laid the pipe along its entire length, its second end is fixed with clay mortar into the chimney outlet.

After this, the entire “hog” is covered with adobe mortar, which must be compacted well, especially between the bends of the pipe, so that no voids form in it. After the space is filled with adobe mass flush with the top of the corrugated pipe, a more liquid adobe solution is poured into the formwork, and at the end the surface is smoothed using a rule that is carried out along the walls of the formwork, which act as beacons.

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Installing covers

After this, the covers of the cleaning chamber and drum are secured with bolts. They need to be tightened tightly so that they press the gaskets installed inside.

Furnace drum coating

Next, the furnace drum is coated with adobe ⅔, from the bottom of the body. The upper part of the drum is left free from the adobe layer. Thermal insulation is applied with a thickness of at least 100÷120 mm, and the coating configuration is chosen by the master himself.

Furnace finishing

After two or two and a half weeks, the adobe layer should dry out and the installed formwork can be removed. Then, if necessary, the right corners of the structure are rounded. In addition, the drum is covered with heat-resistant enamel that can withstand temperatures up to 450÷750 degrees. The adobe surface of the couch is coated with acrylic varnish in two layers, each of which must dry well. The varnish will hold the surface material together, preventing it from collecting dust, protect the adobe from moisture and give the aesthetics of glazed clay.

If desired, a wooden flooring made of thin boards can be laid on the surface of the bed - it is often made removable. The side parts of the bed are sometimes finished with plasterboard or covered with stone. Decorative finishing is carried out to the taste of the home owner.

You may be interested in information about how to build

Carrying out a furnace test

A dry oven must be tested. To do this, you should warm up the structure by placing light fuel in the form of paper in the ash pan and replenishing it during the combustion process. When you feel warmth on the surface of the stove, you can add the main fuel to the combustion chamber. When the stove begins to hum, the vent closes until the sound changes to a “whisper.”

In conclusion, it must be said that the rocket stove can also be made of brick or stone - it all depends on the financial capabilities and creative abilities of the master. The main thing that can attract you in this design is Save so as not to lose!

The jet furnace is gaining significant popularity today. Every day more and more people learn about the features of this heating system. This oven is very energy efficient. You can do it yourself. She will from a gas cylinder, brick or other materials – it’s up to you.

How does it work. Materials for work

Before you do DIY design, you need to understand exactly how it works. Air enters along with oxygen through the duct for further combustion. Thermal energy enters the firebox in sufficient quantities. You can have a stove. Combustion temperature may exceed +1200 degrees.

The design is intended. In this mode, it does not need any special regulation of the air supply.

To make such a stove with your own hands, you can use simple materials at hand. But it is still recommended to find and apply the following:

• metal barrel – 200 liters;
• drum for a stove with a stove bench;
• profile pipes of various diameters;
• for external treatment - a mixture based on straw and clay soil;
• galvanized sheet metal.

How to heat this stove

All long-burning stoves can be easily lit if the pipe is warm. The reaction furnace is not any particular exception. When the downtime was quite long, it will definitely be necessary pre-overclocking. To do this you can use:

• straw;
• paper;
• dry shavings.

There are many versions explaining why the jet stove they called it that way. One of them produces a rather characteristic hum during operation. When its tone decreases significantly, the acceleration can be considered complete. Therefore, you can start adding main fuel. When combustion just begins, the ash door must be opened. Her close a little, when the hum starts to increase.

We build a long-burning stove for the garage with our own hands

First of all, let's see how to make a jet jet for your garage with your own hands. This option is the simplest, especially if you follow the drawings and all the necessary dimensions on them. For example, let's take a propane-based gas cylinder with a diameter of 300 millimeters. The loading hopper and firebox will be steel pipe measuring 150 millimeters.

Read also: Making a stove for the garage

We cut off the required length from the pipe and remove the upper part from the cylinder. We take the drawings and weld all the parts according to them. Do not forget to put insulating material between all vertical pipes. material. Sand is quite suitable for this.

This design weighs relatively little and is suitable for heating a garage great fit. When you place the entire structure on the floor in the garage, you will need to weld the legs to it. In the garage you can make your own jet stove from bricks.

Building such a structure is a little more difficult. Fire channels must be made of fireclay bricks. A barrel is suitable as a cap.

The future structure falls slightly below floor level. To do this, you need to dig a small hole with your own hands. Compact the bottom and along the formwork, fill in. Its thickness should be 100 millimeters. When the foundation hardens, you can begin laying. The basis of the solution is usually refractory clay. After you complete the laying, you will need to fill the hole and put an iron barrel, which has no bottom, onto the fire channel. Next, take the insulation and pour it between the brick and the barrel.