Frame house construction has a solid list of advantages. Thanks to the features of the walls frame houses, the construction of the facility requires 2 times less wood than timber or log structures. To ensure the same thermal characteristics, the required frame house is significantly less compared to walls made using any other technology.
Having a smaller wall thickness, with the same built-up area, at the exit of the house there is additional usable area.
The lightness of frame walls allows you to significantly reduce costs. The modern materials used provide high thermal insulation properties of the house. With the same wall thickness, the thermal insulation of a frame house is two times better than that of a brick house, and more than 3 times better than that of walls made of.
All of the above advantages, as well as the speed of construction and the affordable price of a frame house, make it in demand among consumers. But when developing a project, you need to remember the main functions of any home: to be warm and. It doesn’t matter whether the house is built with your own hands or with the help of specialists, know what it looks like right at home, built using frame technology, will not be superfluous.
What is the wall of a frame house made of?
Wall structure frame structure includes several required nodes:
- rigidly connected frame made of horizontal frames (lower and upper), additional elements and vertical posts;
- internal filler of frame cells, performing the functions of heat and;
- along internal and external areas, fixing the frame contour.
- imitation timber
- membrane
- Wood board or
- Wall frame - or
- slabs
- Soundproofing
- Internal lathing
- Soundproofing material
- or wood board
- or exterior finishing
This frame wall design wooden house received the name "" from experts. Let's look at which pie is correct, “delicious”.
According to technology, the construction of the walls of a wooden house should be made of high-quality dry wood. The result of using undried wood will certainly be cracks, since due to natural drying over time, the width decreases edged boards.
If you take a raw board 150 mm wide, then in the process natural exit moisture, its width will become 145-147 mm.
This will not only lead to the formation of cracks in the walls, drafts, and blow-ins, but also to a decrease in fastening characteristics. Therefore, in order not to resort to insulating the corners in a year or two, it is necessary to follow the technology during the construction process and use dried lumber for the frame. Most often, the construction of the walls of a wooden house is made from the most common sizes of edged boards - 50 * 150 mm or 50 * 200 mm. The width size is selected taking into account the expected thickness of the thermal insulation layer required for a given climatic region.
Insulation of a frame wall
Various materials are used as insulation in the pie. thermal insulation materials: foam insulation, ecowool and others. Selecting them on modern market big enough. The main thing is that the material in the wall is stable in vertical plane- did not settle and did not gather like an accordion in the lower part of the structure, leading to the appearance of uncovered upper sections (cold bridges). To do this, use slab insulation or foam fixation.
When used as a heat insulator, it is necessary to seal the gaps along the contour to ensure tightness around the perimeter of the junction. Considering the cost polyurethane foam, the use of cheap insulation does not always help save money.
So that the insulation inside the walls does not accumulate moisture (which not only reduces its thermal insulation properties, but can also lead to unpleasant smell indoors) a vapor barrier film is used. They are installed along the inner surface of the wall, always from bottom to top with an overlap. The overlap line is usually marked on the film roll. To ensure tightness, the joints are sealed with self-adhesive tape.
Important! application vapor barrier film leads to the formation of closed air in the interior of the house. Therefore, in frame houses, a correctly calculated effective ventilation system is very important.
The outer side of the frame is sewn up depending on preference: oriented particle board (OSB), cement-bonded particle board (OSB), moisture-resistant plywood or other similar ones. These materials not only perform a tightening role, ensure structural strength, but also protect thermal insulation from external influences.
The design of the walls of a private house in variants of engineering solutions
Technologically, the frame structure of the walls of a private house can be performed in two different ways:
- Assembly of the frame structure at the construction site. Directly at the construction site, lumber is cut and walls are installed.
- Assembling a house from boards or panels prepared in production. They are delivered to the construction site, made to size according to the design documentation. The construction team is not engaged in sawing piece parts, but only performs installation work. This method, on the one hand, reduces the time required to complete the work; the outline of the house is assembled in a very short time. On the other hand, the mass of the elements of the house can be quite significant and to carry out the work it is necessary to use either a large team or lifting mechanisms (truck crane).
Wall structure produced panel house in several versions. 
- Shields sewn on one side.
With this technology, wall insulation is carried out only after the assembly of the power kit (box) is completed. Then you can start covering the second side.
- Double-sided shields (). The panel includes a dense layer of expanded polystyrene, with oriented particle boards. This type The shield is significantly stronger than a conventional frame one.
Installation of frame walls
Structurally, a frame house has the following components: top and bottom trim, height posts, fastening slopes, ceilings, door opening trim, etc. The installation order of these units is determined by the selected technical and technological solutions. 
- Most often, installation of a frame structure along the base is used. This method is called platform. At this method Assembling the house, parts of the walls in the form of connected frames are mounted on the surface of the platform and attached to the basement floor along the subfloors. The walls of the second, attic or one and a half floors are assembled in the same way. That is, first they arrange the floors between the floors, after which the walls are installed.
The advantages of this engineering solution in more simple production works A flat laying area ensures more accurate cutting, facilitates the work of builders, and ultimately increases the speed and quality of work.
The disadvantage is that it is necessary to have a considerable amount of covering material in case of rainy weather in order to prevent the subfloor materials from getting wet (usually the material used for such floors is DSP).
But the main disadvantage of installation work using this method is that the frame structure for repairing the walls of the house or ceilings will serve as a hindrance during operation. After all, the main wall is located directly on the beams. If beams need to be replaced over time, this will result in significant labor costs.
Of course, if the floor beams are properly treated with antiseptic and protective agents, and the operating conditions exclude the effects of high humidity, then this disadvantage will not be significant. But in the basement, where the aggressive influence of the environment is usually higher, it is preferable to provide the possibility periodic inspection ceiling elements.
- You can, of course, lay the beams and subfloors of the basement after installing the frame blocks of the first floor. However this option complicates the process of assembling frame frames due to the lack of a flat surface. In addition, it becomes difficult to adjust the subfloor and thermal insulation at the junction of the ceilings and the surface of the walls.
- Another solution is to cover the base in the form of an independent box inside the wall perimeter. True, to apply such an engineering solution, you need a width that allows you to place on it frame wall and floor beams. This solution allows you to first build a basement platform, then assemble frame wall frames on it. On the one hand, this option increases the cost of the foundation, on the other hand, the construction time and, as a consequence, the cost are reduced.
For frame houses, it is possible to use virtually any type of foundation. The most cost-effective one is point-based and without a grillage. To tie a point foundation, use a thick
Our step by step instructions We will divide the construction of a frame house into several stages:
It is worth noting that each stage of building a frame house deserves a separate article, in addition to everything, if we describe everything possible options foundations, roofs, etc., it could be a whole book. In this regard, to improve readability, some steps in construction are described in detail in separate articles, but here - only what concerns the features specifically frame house.
Step No. 1: Preparatory work for the construction of a frame house
Preparatory work for the construction of any house are the same and include:
- Site preparation
- House marking
Site preparation
First, you need to clear the area of vegetation, if not all, then at least the place where the house will be built. This will greatly facilitate the marking and allow you to make it more accurately.
If construction site has a large slope, then, depending on the type of foundation and desire, it can be pre-leveled horizontally using special equipment.
Attention! Do not neglect this procedure, spending 1-2 hours on clearing, in the future you will make your work much easier, and measurements in the grass may be subject to a large error.
House marking
Marking is a very important stage, because the layout and evenness of the corners of the walls depends on it. If the marking is inaccurate, it will be very difficult to correct this error in the next stages.
Marking the foundation of a frame house, as well as any other, as a rule, includes preliminary placement of pegs (all external walls are marked), as well as marking of all interior walls.
If you want to learn how to correctly mark the foundation for a house with your own hands, and so that all the walls and corners are level and correspond to the project, I advise you to read my article about this. Given the large amount of information, it had to be submitted separately.
Step No. 2: Do-it-yourself foundation for a frame house
The great advantage of a frame house is that almost any type of foundation is suitable for its construction. The only limitation is the type of soil on the site and your capabilities.
It is worth saying that laying the foundation for a frame house with your own hands deserves separate topics of discussion and is included in separate articles. Moreover, there are several types of suitable foundations, and it’s up to you to decide which one to choose.
Here I will tell you in a nutshell about suitable foundations for a frame house, and in what cases each of them is used, and also give links to their detailed description.
The most common type of foundation for a frame house is a pile-screw foundation. This is practically the simplest and cheap option for such a house, especially since it is not difficult to install a pile-screw foundation with your own hands.
Such a foundation is suitable for almost any soil, except rocky ones. Particularly suitable for swampy soils, where compact soils are located deep and other types require huge costs.
In general, all the pros and cons of pile-screw foundations are discussed in another topic that will help you decide on the choice of support for your home.
Shallow strip foundation
Shallow strip foundation, is also used for construction quite often. This is due to the relatively low cost of laying it, as well as the possibility of using concrete floors in the house.
Such a foundation, due to its relative fragility, requires strict adherence to laying technology.
As a rule, shallow strip foundations are used in good soils, and is strictly contraindicated on the basis of very high level groundwater and marshy soils.
Slab foundation for a frame house
Recently, slab foundations have become increasingly popular for building a frame house with your own hands. Despite its considerable cost, it has obvious advantages, such as versatility, reliability, durability, and it can also be used as a subfloor in the house and not spend money on it separately.
Often, instead of the classical monolithic slab use a slab foundation with stiffeners. This allows you to save a little on laying, and also strengthens the entire structure as a whole.
Step No. 3: Installing the floor of a frame house with your own hands
The floors in a frame house are not much different from the floors of other types of houses and can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends entirely on the type of foundation, capabilities and desires. 
In this step-by-step instructions, we will look in detail only at the wooden floor, concrete - in a nutshell, since it is used less often, and it is not possible to fit everything into one article.
Concrete floor installation
It is worth noting that a concrete floor in a frame house is installed in cases of a slab foundation or a strip foundation. With a slab, everything is clear - the slab itself will be the floor of the first floor.
But if the foundation is strip, the concrete floor is made of lightweight concrete, such as expanded clay concrete, for example.
Wooden floor installation
Let's look at the construction of a wooden floor using the example of a pile-screw foundation. For the tape, in principle, everything is done in exactly the same way, with the exception of the lower trim, which can be made of thinner timber. But first things first.
Tying the foundation of a frame house
The installation of a wooden floor begins with tying the foundation. As a rule, the piping is made from timber 150x150 or 150x200, depending on the thickness of the wall and the distance between the piles. The greater the distance, the thicker the timber should be to avoid sagging. 
The strapping is necessary, firstly, in order to give rigidity to the foundation, secondly, to evenly distribute the load on the foundation, and thirdly, it will serve as a support for the future floor of the frame house.
In order to easily carry out the tying process with your own hands, we will divide it into several stages:
- The timber is laid out along the perimeter of the foundation, the length of the walls and diagonals are checked. At this stage, the final and accurate marking of the walls is carried out, according to the project. By the way, don’t forget about waterproofing, which we put under the harness in the form of roofing felt.
- The next step is to outline the joining points of the timber; they should be located on the pile, since these will be the weakest points that should not “hang”. This applies to houses whose walls are longer than the length of the purchased beams.
- The timber is joined with an overlap of 20-30cm, as shown in the photo. To do this, so-called “locks” are cut out from the end.
- The corners fit almost exactly the same way. This is clearly visible in the photo.
- The beam is attached to the foundation using bolts or studs. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes both in the head of the foundation and in the beam itself. For ease of further installation, protruding parts - bolt heads or nuts with studs - must be deepened. The joints are additionally punched with nails measuring 150 mm or 200 mm, depending on the size of the timber.
- Once the perimeter is ready, we move on to the final step - tying the foundation under the internal walls of the frame house. This beam, to the already installed external one, is attached in the same way. For reinforcement, you can additionally use fastening metal corners.
When the piping of the foundation of the frame house is ready, we proceed to the next stage of our instructions - the construction of the floor frame.
Floor frame in the house
It is worth noting that already at this stage it is advisable to provide for all communications entering the house, such as water and sewerage. Electricity and gas can be supplied later, but if you plan everything in advance, there will be much fewer problems later.
The next step is to install the joists on top of the trim. If the distance between the supports is about 4 meters, then it would be better to use timber measuring 100x200mm or 100x150mm. You can use a 50x200mm or 50x150mm board, sewing them together in twos. 
If the distance is less than 3 meters, you can use a board measuring 50x150mm or better 50x200mm.
Installation of logs is a simple stage in assembling a frame house, but there are some nuances that must be covered in these instructions:
Do-it-yourself waterproofing and insulation of the floor of a frame house
It is worth noting that waterproofing, as well as vapor barrier, must be installed with an overlap, according to the instructions for the material, while preventing moisture from entering the insulation, both from the outside and from the inside. And the insulation itself is laid tightly, without gaps.
So we have looked at the instructions for installing the floor of a frame house, now it’s time to start working on the walls.
Step No. 4: Construction of the walls of a frame house
Our next step instructions I will be installing the walls myself. Just like with the floor, we will fasten all the boards and beams with nails and (or) mounting metal corners; some fastenings can be made with studs.
It is worth noting that almost the entire frame is assembled from boards measuring 50x150mm or 50x200mm, depending on the required wall thickness and the required insulation thickness. 
Some people think that it would be better to install timber in the corners of a frame house, but this is not entirely correct, and I’ll tell you why a little later, during the installation process.
So, let's start assembling the frame of the walls of the future house.
For better understanding and assimilation, we will divide our instructions for installing the walls of a frame house into several stages:
- Assembling the walls of a frame house. Windows and doors
- Installation and fastening of walls vertically on site
Assembling the walls of a frame house with your own hands. Windows and doors
We will assemble the walls already finished floor frame house, this is the most convenient option. But we must take into account that in this case, it is necessary that all dimensions be accurate so that the walls do not turn out to be longer or shorter than the already installed floor.
To make it clear what I'm talking about, first look at sectional wall of a frame house , and then I will tell you everything in order.
Now let’s look at step by step how to assemble all the walls of a frame house with your own hands:
- First of all, we need to decide on the ceiling height in the house. Let's assume that the height draft ceiling will be 280cm. This means that the vertical posts of the frame walls should be 280-15 = 265cm. The diagram shows where the 15 cm came from.
- The distance between the racks, as a rule, is selected based on the width of the insulation sheet, as a rule, its width is 60 cm. If the insulation is on a cotton basis, then the distance is made less by 2 cm, for a tighter contact.
- The top and bottom boards of the wall are laid out on the floor and the places where the vertical posts will be nailed are marked. Then the racks themselves are laid out and pierced with 120-150mm nails. You can additionally fasten them with corners.
- It is worth noting that each wall will be smaller in wall thickness than the length of the floor. This is clearly visible in the diagram.
- If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the board, then the wall is assembled from several parts. This is also done in cases where there are few helpers, because the entire assembled wall will have a lot of weight.
- As a rule, to add rigidity to the entire structure, jumpers are mounted between the racks. There are no strict rules on the number and frequency of installation, it all depends on the length and height of the walls, but usually they are installed one or two per space between the racks. The second option is better and is visible in the photo; in the case when they are made one at a time, they are mounted in a checkerboard pattern (one at the bottom, the next at the top). This can be done later, when the walls are installed. Most often, jumpers are made with the expectation that they will serve as a joint for plywood or osb boards, depending on further work.
- Window and door openings in the wall of a frame house are arranged as shown in the diagram.
- This is what it looks like “live”.
The most common mistake when assembling the walls of a frame house is that many people forget to take into account the thickness of the board when calculating, thus the wall is not as long as we would like.
Putting the walls in place
It is worth noting that when assembling walls, it is necessary to use a cord, pulling it from one corner to another, otherwise the corners will be even, but the walls will not.
Top trim and structural reinforcement
So, the frame of the walls has been assembled, now you need to make the top frame from the same board as the walls.
The top trim is necessary, first of all, for stronger adhesion of the corners, and will also give unity to all parts of the frame walls and distribute the load between them. 
To do this, it is necessary to pierce the board with 120-150mm nails over the walls, along the entire perimeter, including the internal load-bearing ones, so that all joints are covered with an overlap of at least 25-30 cm. Except for the corners, where the overlap will be equal to the thickness of the wall. 
The next step in our instructions will be to strengthen the entire structure as a whole. There are several options, the most common is reinforcement using plywood or OSB board. 
As a rule, having pierced one side along the entire perimeter (internal or external) with sheets of OSB boards, the frame of the house already becomes very rigid.
Internal partitions of a frame house
The design of internal partitions is almost no different from the design external walls, except that they have softer requirements in terms of thickness and insulation. 
- Internal partitions, unlike external walls, can be made thinner. Everything will depend on preferences and comfort in terms of sound insulation.
- The insulation inside the partitions will serve primarily as a sound-absorbing material rather than as thermal insulation.
- Internal partitions can be insulated without waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.
These are all the main differences between internal walls and external ones, otherwise they are arranged in exactly the same way.
Step No. 5: Roof of a frame house
The roof of a frame house is practically no different from the roof of other houses, be it concrete, brick or any other. I’ll even say more that installing a roof for a frame house will be less labor-intensive than, for example, for a block or brick house, because its fastening to the walls will be much simpler. 
It is worth noting that building a roof is a very responsible process, but if you do not have a complex house layout, then you can easily do it yourself.
Building the roof of any house, including a frame one, is a very large topic with many nuances. Firstly, there are many types of roofs, and it is not possible to describe everything in detail in one article. Well, secondly, in order not to confuse you, I will probably move this topic to a separate article.
Step No. 6: Insulating the frame house
Now we have come to the final stage of building a frame house - its insulation. Everything needs to be insulated - floor, walls and ceiling.
You can read more about insulating a frame house with your own hands in another step-by-step instruction; here we will discuss only general points.
When choosing insulation for the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the insulation itself, but also the characteristics of wood, with which not all types of insulation will interact well.
Here is a short instruction on how to insulate a frame house with your own hands:
- Outside, over the OSB sheets, a special waterproofing membrane is stretched. Which side should be in the instructions for it.
- From the inside of the house, between the studs, insulation is laid in several layers, depending on the requirements for the house and the thickness of the wall. Each layer is laid overlapping the joint of the previous one to avoid cold bridges.
- Floor insulation occurs in the same way.
- It is better to insulate the ceiling from the attic, having previously filled the vapor barrier film from below onto ceiling beams and hemming them with board or plywood.
- After laying the insulation, it is necessary to fill a vapor barrier film over it; it will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside.
- Depending on needs and further finishing works, on top of the film, sheathing material is placed on the walls - boards or slats, but most often - OSB sheets, on top of which, in the future, finishing is carried out.
As you have already seen, there was a lot of text. But, I believe, all stages of construction were described in detail here DIY frame house, despite the fact that some points were included in separate topics, but this is only for your convenience.
I hope that by following these step-by-step instructions, you will be able to special labor and with minimal costs get a warm, cozy and reliable home.
Building a frame house is similar to assembling a construction set. The wooden frame house is assembled in accordance with the diagram. At the same time, the strength and reliability of the future structure depends on the quality of the assembly components. What are the features of the main components and connections of a frame house? And how to properly fix the lower and upper trims, racks, jibs, and crossbars?
Bottom trim connection nodes
The lower one is a frame made of wooden beams or several boards knocked together, which is laid on top. So-called planks - boards - are placed on the concrete foundation under the bottom frame. They perform main function– level the foundation and hide those flaws that could have been made during its pouring.
The beds are attached to the concrete foundation using anchors. The installation sites are located at a distance of no more than 0.5 mm. In this case, at least the ends of the beams are secured with anchors.
Connection of the beam to the concrete foundation.
To install anchors, holes of a certain depth are drilled. They pass through the board and go deep into the thickness of the concrete foundation. The depth of drilling and driving in the anchor is determined by the height of the house wall and the design of the foundation. For a traditional 2.5-3 m frame wall on a concrete base, the depth of lowering the anchor into the concrete is 15-20 cm.
The second option for installing anchors is to concrete the anchor studs during the process of pouring the foundation. When casting concrete slab or tapes in specified places, hollow cones with internal threads are inserted into the thickness of unhardened concrete. After the concrete has hardened, anchors are screwed into these elongated cone-shaped studs.
Features of the anchor connection
- The holes in the beam are drilled 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the anchor pin.
- Wide washers can be placed under the heads of the anchor bolts to increase the area of their contact with the wooden surface, and increase the strength of the fastening connection.
Anchor fastening of the lower trim. Before fixing, mandatory waterproofing is carried out - roofing material is placed on the concrete or its surface is covered with a special waterproof compound, mastic. After installation, check the horizon. Deviations from the horizontal level are allowed in dimensions of no more than 0.5° per 3 m.
Bottom trim assembly on a columnar foundation
The fastening of structural units of a frame house described above is used on strip and slab foundations. For columnar bases, a different scheme is used:
- For ease of fastening, the upper part of the columnar supports should have a flat horizontal head with holes.
- Place on top of the headrest wooden beams, which perform the function of a grillage.
- Recesses of the required depth are drilled in the beams. They are drilled under the holes in the headband.
- Fix the beam with bolts or screws.
Trimmed plank strapping on pile foundation. On a note
It is necessary to attach the timber to the foundation. Shallowly buried strips and slabs are subject to significant movement when freezing. A reliable connection of the floor and bottom trim ensures the reliability and durability of the entire structure.
Design of frame house components
Vertical frame posts are installed on top of the lower frame and secured with nails. Fastening with metal corners is used for T-shaped connection of beams without cutting. It's easier to do. Fixing beams with metal nails is used at the junction with partial cutting of the lower beam. This is a more difficult connection to make with your own hands.
A joint without cutting is used for corner frame supports. Butt joints with fixation with plates or corners are used in the main components of a frame house, if the construction is carried out with your own hands, without the involvement of professionals. If experienced builders work, they use a connection with a partial insertion. It prevents strong movements of the timber and frame boards when drying out.
On a note
Size of cutting for vertical frame rack is 30-50% of the thickness of the bottom trim beam.
The corner joint without cutting is fixed with metal plates using wood screws. In this case, reinforced steel corners with several perforations are used. As well as durable self-tapping screws in light golden and silver colors.
Strengthening the corners for fastening the corners of the house is carried out due to technological processing - metal plates hardened during the manufacturing process. Or through the use of metal with a large section thickness, up to 2-3 mm.
Methods of fastening racks. A notch joint is often used to attach studs in the middle of a wall. The supports are inserted into the prepared recesses and additionally secured with nails. Then they are secured in a vertical position with jibs - diagonally inclined slats that rest against a vertical post on one side and a horizontal frame on the other. For ease of support, the ends of the jib are made beveled - part of the end is cut off.
Temporary jib
During the assembly of the frame, temporary jibs are also installed, which fix several vertical posts. Temporary jibs are placed between the upper and lower trim at an angle. They connect several vertical posts and are fixed with nails.
Temporary jibs are placed with outside frame. To attach them, you do not need to cut down, but they need to be fixed in such a way that upon completion of construction, the temporary auxiliary beams can be easily dismantled. Therefore, nails are used to fix them.
Temporary jibs for racks. Temporary jibs hold the posts upright until they are installed permanent jib in the lower and upper parts of each rack. Once the permanent jibs are in place, the temporary fixing beams can be removed.
On a note
The construction project contains a description of the components of a frame wooden house in the drawings. They often do not describe in detail the method of attaching temporary jibs, since they do not bear the main load and support the frame temporarily.
Upper harness knots
The top frame of the frame house is laid on vertical frame supports after installing the corner posts. If the perimeter of the house is large enough (more than 6 m), then in addition to the corner pillars, intermediate ones are also placed - in the middle of the wall. And only after that the top harness is placed.
After laying the top row, temporary jibs are attached - across the entire wall. Next, attach the remaining vertical posts and jibs to them. After which the temporary jibs between the upper and lower trim are removed.
It is most convenient to assemble the walls of a frame house in a lying position, knocking together the lower frame, vertical posts, crossbar, jibs and top frame. And only after that, raise the walls to a vertical position, where all that remains is to fasten all the walls of the house together. To firmly connect the walls of a frame house, a second top frame is used, which is overlapped with the first top harness.
Double top knots. When using a double top trim, you can do without the use of steel corners. In this case, there is no need to partially cut off the ends of the boards, making a “claw” connection. Because such connections with cutting out part of the end violate the integrity of the board and, accordingly, weaken it.
Interfloor beams are placed on top of the second top frame. The beams are laid on the end, the distance between the beams is set depending on the size of the spans and fastened with nails.
Wall corner
The corner of a frame house is the place of maximum heat loss. As a rule, it is in the corners that condensation accumulates and it is them that need to be insulated first. Therefore, even at the stage of assembling the frame, it is necessary to ensure that the corners of the future frame house are warm. How to do it?
Smooth fixing plates are placed on the outside of the vertical beam. They connect adjacent single-level surfaces of the vertical post and horizontal beams. The fixing corners are located on the side. They connect mutually perpendicular surfaces. What else is important to know about angles?
During construction in regions with cold climates, non-solid material is used as vertical posts. wooden beam, and assemble a corner post from separate boards. The resulting structure resembles a well. Insulation is installed in this internal space, which retains heat and limits possible heat loss.
Installation of corners in the frame of the house. It must also be warm; for this, single racks are used, but the load on window and door openings is removed using a crossbar. The crossbar is fastened along the entire length of the frame wall by cutting into all vertical posts. It is important to take into account that under each window opening There should be at least 1-2 vertical support boards.
Knots of the rafter system
To nodes rafter system include all connections between its elements, namely:
- Fastening floor beams to the top frame.
- Attaching the rafter beam to the top trim.
- Fastening the racks on the gables to the top trim and to the outer rafters.
- Attaching the internal posts to the rafter beam and to the ridge.
- Fastening struts - inclined beams that support the rafters and rest on the beam.
- Attaching the crossbar to inclined rafters.
- Fastening the sheathing.
Knots of the rafter system. The fastenings listed above can be done using corners or using nails if the elements of the rafter system are connected overlapping each other.
Fasteners
The following elements are used as fasteners for the components of a frame wooden house:
- Fastening plates (angles or flat plates with or without holes). Plates and angles are attached to beams or supports using wood screws.
- Staples (straight and angular) are wire fasteners of a certain diameter. Their edges are folded and inserted into the ends or side surfaces beams
- Bolts - used to tighten adjacent beams and rafters, inserted into through holes and secure them with nuts.
- Nails.
All connecting fixing and fasteners for frame buildings they are made of metal. For fastening load-bearing elements use reinforced corners made of hardened steel or increased thickness, 3-4 mm. To fasten the supporting elements, angles made of ordinary steel with a thickness of 2-3 mm are used.
Variety of fastening elements. In order to protect against corrosion, galvanized steel is used for the manufacture of corners and plates. Rust protection is especially important in outdoor construction, when metal fasteners in walls can become a point of moisture condensation, causing a section of the wall to become wet. Therefore, galvanized fasteners are in great demand in various components of a frame house.
Node connection errors
A drawing of components requires the presence of sketches and descriptions. However, despite this, novice builders often make offensive mistakes. Let's list the main and most frequently repeated erroneous actions that novice individual builders make when assembling a frame:
Not all jibs are installed. This is not true. The jibs ensure the wall's resistance to wind loads. In addition to the jibs, to withstand the wind it is necessary to use rigid slabs in the outer cladding.
- Use as corner posts solid timber or boards placed tightly next to each other. This corner will be cold. Moisture will condense and mold will develop.
- Use “black” screws for fastening. They are not strong enough, especially if the wood purchased for construction is not dry enough. When drying and warping, the “black” screws can be simply “torn off”. A more durable option is golden and silver-colored self-tapping screws, galvanized or coated with a layer of chromating and phosphating.
- They use wood that is not dry enough, which causes severe shrinkage and “breaks” existing nodes and connections.
- And another mistake is not to use nails. These proven fasteners are often stronger than any self-tapping screws.
Frame construction – new technology, in which, despite its apparent simplicity, there are many nuances and features.
Construction wooden houses frame construction has gained popularity in our area relatively recently, only in recent decades. And such a rapid growth in the number of supporters of such buildings is due to the very fast process of their construction and the possibility of using environmentally friendly materials.
The first frame buildings appeared during the development of the territories of America and Canada, then they became widespread in European countries. This type of building is good not only because the house rises quickly, but also because it requires much less costs and physical effort. In addition, if the facade of the house is decorated with one of modern materials imitating brick, wood or stone, then its walls will be impossible to distinguish from capital ones.
Interestingly, building with your own hands is quite possible even alone. Of course, the process will take much longer, but you won’t have to pay for the work of an entire team. If you decide to carry out construction yourself and complete it during a warm and dry period summer period, then you still need to start in early spring. In case the house is not completely finished until late autumn, you need to try to bring the construction to at least the rafter structure and flooring roofing material, since the building cannot be allowed to stand uncovered until next spring.
What is frame construction?
If we consider in general, then the frame structure of the house consists of a lower and upper frame, which fastens the vertically installed posts that form the frame of the external and internal walls. The base for the floors and attic ceiling consists of load-bearing beams made from timber. The rafter system is also erected from beams, and roof covering. It is desirable that it does not have too much mass.
Insulation is installed and laid between the frame elements. Its thickness is chosen depending on the region and climatic conditions. In any case, the thickness of the frame posts must correspond to this value. Most often, one of the varieties of mineral wool, ecowool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam is chosen as thermal insulation materials. Expanded clay is also used to insulate floors and attic floors.
How to insulate a frame house?
When choosing, you need to take into account not only the thermal insulation qualities of the material, but also a number of other factors - hygroscopicity, chemical and biological resistance, density, environmental friendliness, etc. And for a frame house, the flammability of the material and its stability are of great importance .
On the pages of our portal there are many materials that tell in detail.
After installing the insulation, the structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant materials - this can be OSB board, moisture-resistant plywood or cement-bonded particle board (CSP).
Compared to solid wood, block or brick buildings, the frame structure is lightweight and does not require a massive foundation. A columnar or pile-screw foundation is suitable for it, and if you plan to arrange basements in the house, then in this case it is best to choose a strip foundation. The frame structure must be raised high enough above the ground, so the base part must have a height of at least 500 mm. This is necessary so that moisture from soil, from rain water or snowdrifts affected the wooden elements of the frame house as little as possible.
Foundation for a frame structure
Any construction begins with a foundation, and as stated above, you can choose any type of it (except, perhaps, a monolithic “floating” slab - there is no need for it).
Marking of future construction and earthworks
Before you start digging trenches for the foundation or screwing in piles, it is necessary to carefully mark the area. This work should not be considered secondary, since the straightness of future walls, and the overall volume of work, will depend on it. So How Not have to make unnecessary efforts to remake the foundation if its exact coordinates and dimensions are initially determined.
- Marking is carried out using a tape measure, a square, and other simple geodetic instruments. Usually it consists of installing wooden stakes with stretched cords that visually show the size of the building and its location on the ground.
This kind of “blueprint” defines everything load-bearing walls structure if a strip foundation is chosen. If you are planning a columnar or pile-screw version, then you need to mark the exact location of each of the pillars (supports).
- Trenches can be dug manually or, if this process needs to be carried out quickly, special construction equipment can be used, with the help of which this entire operation will be completed in one day.
- To dig holes for a columnar foundation, in addition to shovels, use a regular hand drill or a motor drill, which will allow you to drill holes of the required diameter to the required depth much faster.
These methods are the most affordable, since if you invite large-sized equipment, then it is necessary, firstly, to have it on site additional area and free travel to the place of work, and secondly, the cost of such drilling will cost many times more.
- At the stage of digging a pit, sewerage is carried out. To lay pipes, trenches are dug to a depth below the soil freezing level in a given region. Then pipes are laid to the place inside the pit where, according to the plan, a bathroom or a ventilated sewer riser should be located.
If a columnar foundation is being installed, then the section of pipe running from the ground level to the exit in the house must be carefully insulated. It is recommended to build brick walls around it, and fill the space between the pipe and them with insulation.
Of course, this work can be carried out after construction is completed, but in this case it will be inconvenient - you will have to cut holes in the floor or cut through the foundation wall.
Construction of the foundation
In order to specifically focus on one type of foundation, you need to understand what they are.
Strip foundation
This type of foundation is a concrete monolithic strip with a reinforcement grid in its design. The height of the basement can be different, but if the house construction plan includes basement, then the foundation walls are raised by 600 ÷ 800 mm, and in this case they will require insulation. When preparing the formwork, we must not forget about ventilation holes, which will not allow moisture to accumulate under the building.
"Classic" strip foundation If you immediately take measures to combat rodents, of which there are always a lot outside the city, then it is recommended to make a backfill of fine-grained expanded clay around the foundation and inside it.
Columnar foundation
1 – foundation pillar;
2 – strapping beams;
3 – floor beams;
4 – subfloor joists.
A columnar foundation is a set of concrete, brick or combined pillars located in in the right order, according to the markings carried out. The supports are buried depending on the types and location of soil layers in the area and the massiveness of the future structure.
Are you choosing a columnar foundation?
For a frame house on stable ground this is a very good solution. All installation details can be found in a special article.
Pile-screw foundation
A screw foundation consists of metal piles screwed to the required depth at points, according to the markings carried out in accordance with the project. The upper part of the piles, protruding above the ground surface, is tied with a metal grillage or metal jumpers, and then with a powerful beam. This will become the basis for the lower trim of the frame structure itself.
The good thing about the pile-screw design is that the supports can be screwed in so that they protrude to different heights. This allows you to install the house not only on a flat area, but also on a rough area, with a difference in height - then bringing the piles to one horizontal level will not be difficult. to the same height.
It will not be possible to screw in screw piles on your own - you will have to either invite several assistants, or use the services of a team of craftsmen “armed” with special equipment.
Prices for cement and basic mixtures
Cement and base mixtures
Construction of the frame
Whatever foundation is chosen, it must be on top waterproof– the platform (grillage, mounting plates or the upper edge of the pillars or tape) on which the lower frame beam will be installed is covered with roofing felt, which will create a moisture-proof seal.
The roofing material is spread in several layers, preferably using a “hot” method on tar mastic, and it must be 150 ÷ 200 mm larger than the width of the foundation, since it must protrude from both sides.
Bottom harness
The harness is made of timber measuring 150×150 or 200×150 mm. At the corners, the elements are connected “in half a tree”, the bars are securely twisted together and secured to the foundation supports (strip) using pins or anchors, depending on what type of base is chosen and what material it is constructed from.
Additionally, the strapping beams are fastened together with corners or other metal elements, for example, plates. The same parts can be used to attach the strapping to the foundation.
At the end of this work, a rigid strapping belt should be obtained that can support the main structure of the frame. In the case when the timber used does not have the proper cross-sectional size, two, and sometimes three, parts are stacked one on top of the other.
Moreover, the upper frame beam is mounted on the lower beam so that possible butt joints, if any, do not lie one above the other.
If the wooden frame is mounted on a strip foundation, then it may not be too thick, but it is very important that its width coincides with the width of the concrete base.
Basement beams and flooring
Basement beams
The strength qualities of the frame depend to the maximum extent on the quality and cross-section of the frame beams and floor beams. It is clear that they are trying to select first-class material. But the cross-section depends on both the length of the spans and the spacing of the parts. To correctly determine the size, you can use the following table:
Table of cross-sections of floor beams for a frame building:
| Cross-section of 1st grade lumber used | Span length (mm) | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3000 | 3500 | 4000 | 4500 | 5000 | 5500 | 6000 | |
| Attic floor | |||||||
| Board | |||||||
| 160×50 | 1200 | 900 | 650 | 500 | 420 | - | - |
| 200×50 | 1850 | 1350 | 1050 | 800 | 650 | 550 | 450 |
| 180×80 | 2400 | 1750 | 1350 | 1050 | 850 | 700 | 600 |
| timber | Distance between adjacent beams (mm) | ||||||
| 140×180 | - | - | - | 1800 | 1480 | 1200 | 1050 |
| 150×200 | - | - | - | 2400 | 2000 | 1650 | 1400 |
| 160×220 | - | - | - | - | 2500 | 2000 | 1750 |
| Basement and interfloor ceilings | |||||||
| Board | Distance between adjacent beams (mm) | ||||||
| 160×50 | 800 | 600 | 450 | - | - | - | - |
| 200×50 | 1250 | 900 | 700 | 550 | 450 | - | - |
| 180×80 | 1200 | 1200 | 900 | 700 | 650 | 450 | - |
| timber | Distance between adjacent beams (mm) | ||||||
| 140×180 | - | - | 1550 | 1200 | 1300 | 800 | 700 |
| 150×200 | - | - | - | 1650 | 1700 | 1000 | 900 |
| 160×220 | - | - | - | 2000 | 1900 | 1400 | 1100 |
- The next step is securing the basement beams. They, as a rule, have the same cross-sectional size as the strapping bars. The connection of the floor beams with the strapping belt is carried out “in half a tree”, for which cuts are made in both elements.
The beams should give the structure of the future floor rigidity and reliability. Therefore, if the building area is large enough, then often the basement beams are laid on the strapping belt for each room separately.
- After the installation of the basement floor beams is completed, flooring will be required for further work. And this is where many craftsmen prefer to install floors themselves and advise beginners to immediately install floors, both rough and “white” (of course, not counting the finishing decorative covering). However, with this type of work, it is necessary to provide that the entire floor area will need to be covered daily with a solid sheet of thick polyethylene film until the entire structure is protected from precipitation by the roof and walls.
- All parts of the lower belt are covered with antiseptic and water-repellent impregnation - this measure will extend the life of the building.
- At the same stage, it is necessary to raise the sewer pipe above the floor surface by 100 ÷ 150 mm. To do this, in each layer of the covering, it is necessary to make holes through which the sewerage pipe will be passed.
Sub flooring
- To lay the subfloor, skull blocks are screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, onto which boards or plywood sheets will be fixed.
- Next comes laying and securing the boards. For this, it is not at all necessary to purchase first-class material, but it must be well dried. It is recommended to install the boards close to each other - this will add insulation to the floor, since the structure will be less ventilated.
Installation of insulating floor pie
- The next step is to cover the subfloor and floor beams with a waterproofing membrane, which uses dense polyethylene. It is usually secured using staples.
- Next, mats are laid on the waterproofing or expanded clay is poured, which is no less effective than other materials. If you plan to make several layers of insulation, then the first of them is recommended to use fine-grained expanded clay.
- A layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation, and then attached or batten, or sheet material. For this, plywood or OSB is often used.
Recently, instead of plywood, it is often used cement bonded particle boards, which can be used not only for floor coverings, but also for walls and ceilings. The material has good technical and performance characteristics, is not inferior, and in some ways even superior to its “competitors”.
The table below shows comparative estimates indicators of some sheet materials that They will give you a rough idea of them and help you make a choice.
| Characteristics | Rating the material using a 5-point system | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Average score | 2.9 | 3 | 3.3 | 3.6 | 4.1 |
| MDF | Chipboard | Plywood | OSB | DSP | |
| Strength | 2 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| Resistance to external aggressive influences | 1 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 5 |
| Dimensional stability | 2 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 |
| Weight | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 2 |
| Manufacturability of machining | 3 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 |
| Manufacturability of painting | 5 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 4 |
| Defects: knots, delamination, delamination, etc. | 5 | 4 | 3 | 5 | 5 |
Sheets of floor covering material are screwed with self-tapping screws to the floor beams. If insulation is provided in two layers, then logs are nailed on top of the beams, between which the second layer of insulation is laid. Then everything is the same - a vapor barrier is laid, and plywood or other covering is fixed to the joists.
It should be noted that instead of the last vapor barrier layer, roofing felt sheets are often laid with an overlap of 150 ÷ 200 mm, which are fastened together with mastic using a “hot” method.
Construction of the wall frame, top trim
Once the bottom chord is finished, you can proceed to the construction of the wall frame. First of all, you need to install corner posts, which usually have larger size in cross section than intermediate ones.
- The racks should be fixed according to pre-made markings, at a distance of 600 mm from each other - this is the standard width of insulation mats, but if necessary, they can be placed with a different pitch, for example, 400 mm. You can attach intermediate posts, just like corner posts, in different ways:
- The racks can first be secured using metal corners, and then jumpers can be installed between them, which will create rigidity of the structure.
- Another option would be to install the racks on the strapping belt at the time when the floor is already installed, or before its installation.
— If fastening is carried out after the floor has been laid, then grooves are cut out near the floor beams. Racks are installed in them and secured to the beam and frame using self-tapping screws.
— If the racks are attached before installing the floor, then this can be done using an additional part - a piece of timber, which is screwed with self-tapping screws to inside racks and strapping beams.
— The third option is to install racks with diagonal supports (mitters), which are installed on both sides and screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed.
— The fourth method of attaching racks can be complete or incomplete cutting of the rack into a frame or into an additional reinforcing beam nailed perpendicular to the floor beams.
- When installing racks, you cannot forget about window and doorways. They are designated by transverse bars, which for rigidity are supported from above and below by additional reinforcing posts. Spacer bars will give the structure additional rigidity.
- Each of the racks is aligned with the greatest care vertically in two planes using a building level. Then they are all fastened together with temporary jumper slats, which will fix them in the correct position.
- When the racks stand rigidly enough, they must be united with an upper trim, which is nailed to the ends of the racks, and then additionally secured using corners or spacer slopes, secured diagonally.
- The top frame beams should have the same width as the vertical posts. Their reliable fastening is given Special attention, since they will become the basis for the beams attic floor and, therefore, the entire rafter system as a whole.
- To design wall frame was strong, after installing the top trim, it is recommended to immediately cover the outside with plywood or other selected sheet material. The sheets are mounted on self-tapping screws to the vertical posts.
Prices for various types of timber
Video - The biggest mistakes when building a frame house
Attic beams and roof structure
Once the strength and stability of the wall frame is no longer a concern, the attic floor beams can be installed.
- They are fixed exactly above the studs of the wall frame. If boards are prepared as a material for this, then they are installed on the end, having previously made cuts in them to 1/3 of the width of the board, and the depth of the cut should be equal to the width of the beam or board of the top trim.
Fastening is done using metal corner, which is screwed on one side to the harness and the other to the beam. Fasteners are installed on both sides of the beam.
- Next, you can proceed to the installation of the rafter system. True, it is advisable to immediately install at least a temporary flooring on the attic floor beams, on which you can move during the work process.
Prices for different types of tiles
Roof tiles
Video - 11 important rules for the rigidity of a frame house
Insulation and finishing works
After that To Once the roof has been erected over the house, external windows and doors should be installed. This process is carried out before insulation work so that all cracks and gaps that may form during the installation of window and door units can be simultaneously closed. After this, you can move on to insulating the walls, attic floor and roof.
Walls can be insulated both inside and outside. For this purpose they are used thermal insulation materials, which have already been mentioned in our publication.
- If the walls are sheathed on the outside with plywood, then a wall is installed from the inside between the racks, which then must be covered on top with a vapor barrier film.
- For additional insulation thermal insulation materials are installed and outside walls To do this, a sheathing is screwed to them, between the bars of which the selected insulation is laid or applied.
A windproof, vapor barrier film is fixed on top of the insulation.
- Insulation of the attic floor is carried out in approximately the same way as the basement:
— cranial bars are screwed onto the floor beams;
- a subfloor is laid on them;
— the floor is covered with waterproofing;
- then goes insulation material(expanded clay, mineral wool, sawdust, ecowool, expanded polystyrene, etc.);
— the insulation is covered with waterproofing on top;
- boards or plywood of the “white” attic floor are mounted on top of it.
- It is also better to insulate the roof slopes, since most of the heat escapes through the ceilings and the roof. To do this, insulation is laid between the rafters, which is covered with a vapor barrier on the attic side, and then all layers are sheathed with clapboard, plywood, cement-bonded particle boards or moisture-resistant plasterboard.
The sheathing can be secured to the rafters or to an additionally screwed horizontal batten.
- Having completed the insulation work, you can move on to the external cladding of the house. decorative material. It can be chosen to suit every taste - it can be vinyl or metal siding, wooden lining, “block house” or other modern materials.
Siding with insulation is a solution to several problems at once!
The facade of the building acquires reliable thermal insulation, protection from weather conditions, and the house itself acquires completeness, neatness and individuality.
How – read in a special publication on our portal.
- Internal lining can also be done in different ways:
- plasterboard, making it perfect smooth walls for painting or wallpapering;
- wooden lining, making the house cozy and bringing into it natural freshness;
- plywood, which can also be prepared for painting or wallpaper.
Interior decoration frame house - at the request of the owners To complete the finishing work, decorative panels - slopes and trims - are installed around windows and doors.
If a veranda or terrace was not planned in the project, then they can be added after all the work is completed, but it is better, of course, to build it together with the walls.
Electrics can be installed both inside the walls, even at the stage of installing the frame, and after finishing the cladding with decorative material. The latter installation method has recently been used more and more often, since it is safer and allows, if necessary, to carry out repair work without opening decorative finishing. However, modern technologies allow you to use other options.
Electrical wiring in a wooden house - special attention!
Whatever you say, the fire hazard of a wooden house is always higher than that of a stone one. Any “liberties” in electrical installation are simply unacceptable!
How to install it correctly is described in detail in a special article on the portal.
If you decide to start building a frame house, you need to remember that this will require a lot of free time, although incomparably less than with other buildings. The work will certainly go more fun and faster if there is a reliable and knowledgeable assistant nearby, or better yet, several. In this situation, it is quite possible to build a house in one summer season.
The main thing is to act in accordance with the construction process technological instructions When performing all types of work, perform them carefully, harmoniously and consistently.
And finally, to complete the overall picture, here is a video lecture on the main advantages and disadvantages of frame houses.
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
Video: frame house - “pros” and “cons”
The simplest and fastest technology for constructing the walls of a house is frame. Frame walls and buildings are distinguished by excellent thermal insulation characteristics, earthquake resistance, and durability. And of course one cannot fail to note the financial side of the issue. Frame house – economically profitable solution, thanks to the special design and the use of inexpensive materials.
Frame walls are a technically simple but effective design that includes:
The construction of a frame wall may have its own distinctive features, for example the use of metal studs, but the structure itself remains unchanged.
Frame walls and stages of their construction
It is noteworthy that anyone can build a frame wall on their own and this will not cause any special problems. Moreover, to work there is no need to have special education or extensive experience in this field.
So where to start? 
The lower trim and joists must be treated with an antiseptic!
Walls can be erected from piece elements, that is, installing each load-bearing beam alternately or as a prefabricated structure. In other words, fragments of the frame are prepared in advance, which are then attached to the beam of the lower frame. 
Also, one of the types of frame construction is the construction of a house from ready-made panels (panels). They are produced in the workshop according to a pre-agreed project. Such panels are delivered to the site assembled, that is, they have window openings, places for installing doors, etc. All that remains is to fasten the panels to the frame and the walls are ready. This technology can significantly reduce work time, but has limitations on the variability of execution. In addition, the panels can be heavy and may require a crane to install them. 
Wall structure
When the installation of the frame is completed, you can begin constructing a multi-layer wall structure. Here each of constituent elements plays a specific function, so it is necessary to follow a special construction technology.
Exterior finishing options
Of course, the external walls of a frame structure can hardly be called aesthetically attractive. However, after finishing they cannot be distinguished from more expensive wooden or brick counterparts.
Traditionally, walls are decorated in two ways:
Also practiced exterior decoration in the form of masonry decorative brick. This design option will give the frame building elegance, sophistication and a unique appearance.
