How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse: modern materials and work technology. Insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse - choosing the appropriate material Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool

Your own sauna is a great place to take a steam bath in the cold. In order to quickly heat and retain heated air in the bathhouse, you need to properly insulate all its surfaces. Particular attention should be paid to the ceiling, since according to the laws of physics, warm air masses rise up.

Conditions high temperatures and humidity impose special requirements on the choice of insulation. When carrying out thermal insulation with your own hands, you also need to take into account what kind of design the ceiling has. Depending on this, it can be insulated from the inside or outside.

Bath ceiling design

In bathhouses built with your own hands, there is usually a attic space or attic. This provides an additional layer of air and makes the room warmer. However, this will not be enough to keep the heat in the steam room. The ceiling of the bathhouse should be additionally insulated.

This is most conveniently done from inside the attic or attic. Insulation material is placed taking into account the requirements fire safety. It is especially important to properly close the junction with the chimney.

The distance between the pipe and the insulation must be at least 20 cm. To do this, a box of boards is built around it, and the inside is filled with fire-resistant material, such as expanded clay or mineral wool.

Access to the ceiling of the bathhouse from above through the attic provides the opportunity to insulate it different ways using traditional natural materials or modern insulation materials. If there is no attic, thermal insulation is laid from the inside of the bathhouse.

1. The beams are hemmed with ceiling boards.
2. A layer of vapor barrier (preferably foil) is placed on top of them.
3. The space between the beams is filled with insulation: mineral wool, expanded clay, clay with sawdust. Other materials can also be used.
4. The insulation is covered with a waterproofing film.
5. If people will walk on the floor of the attic, a flooring is made of boards, under which there should be a ventilation gap.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

If there is no attic space above the bathhouse, you can insulate it yourself from the inside. For this, basalt wool is used. It is important to ensure that the insulation is protected from moisture penetration.

Advice! For the internal lining of the steam room, low-density wood is chosen. Boards made of alder, linden, cedar or aspen not only create a pleasant aroma, but also provide good thermal insulation. Pine also smells nice, but tends to stick.

Properly carried out insulation of a bathhouse will ensure faster warming up and will allow you to more economically use firewood or electricity for heating. Thermal insulation can be placed from the inside or from the attic side. When building a bathhouse with your own hands, it is better to take care of high-quality insulation in advance.

If you are planning to build or repair a steam room yourself, then most likely you have wondered: what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the inside and how to properly cover it with your own hands, and also looked for examples with videos.

Why is this necessary?

A person in a steam room often encountered such a phenomenon as condensation. It is formed when hot steam rises and drops of water appear in the room. It doesn’t matter whether the steam room is built into the room or is a separate structure, it is necessary to insulate it. The only question is how and to what extent. If it is built into the room, excess heat can go into the house. Therefore a thermal camera is required.

Wooden parts of the structure are most exposed to aggressive influences high temperatures and moisture. Therefore, the coating must be of high quality to ensure an “impeccable” microclimate in the steam room.

To make wood last longer, it is impregnated with various compounds (additives - fire retardants). They increase durability. This safety measure is justified, because the temperature in the steam room reaches 100°C. However, chemical anti-mold coatings will produce toxic fumes at high temperatures.

The main “ally” of wooden coverings is insulation, which should retain hot steam indoors and prevent the development of rot. It protects the wood from condensation, prevents wood from rotting and extends its service life.

Proper insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse or steam room with your own hands involves observing the following points:

1. Steam must accumulate and remain indoors.
2. The inside of the roof must be protected from high humidity.
3. It is necessary to prevent the occurrence and accumulation of condensation both in the steam room itself and in the ceilings under the lining in the walls and ceiling.

Features of insulation

Not all products are used for insulation. Plastic products will deform from high temperatures. If you use plywood or fiberboard, then from the hot air they will begin to expand and change shape, accumulating moisture. These products are definitely not suitable. The best way finishing is considered to be several layers:

1. First you need to use insulating material which prevents water penetration.
2. Place a second layer of insulation (for example, mineral wool).
3. The third level is aluminum foil.

This “multi-layering” holds heat well and does not allow steam to escape for a long time, so heat losses are reduced.

Insulation materials can be divided into the following types:

• fibers;
• plates;
• blocks;
• wall slabs;
• backfill.

And depending on the composition they distinguish:

• Organic such as ecowool.
• Inorganic - mineral wool.
• Expanded polystyrene.
• Other insulation materials are such as technovent and technoblock.

Functions of bath ceiling thermal insulation

High-quality insulation material must be:

• heat-resistant to prevent fire;
• environmentally friendly (should not emit harmful fumes);
• “breathe” so that water does not collect and condensation does not accumulate;
• resistant to moisture.

Types and design features

First you need to find out what kind of roof you have - with or without an attic. Structurally similar options for buildings made of logs and panels. They have:

• steam insulation;
• insulation;
• hemming boards;
• beams
• sheathing

Vapor barrier is applied to the wall and ceiling, then timber, then insulation. You can use basalt wool in the form of mats, then again a layer of vapor barrier, then a block and fastening the lining. As an option, respectively, 40 mm timber and 40 mm insulation. You don't need too much insulation. Overconsumption of materials in in this case inappropriate.

On the ceiling, the structure must be made with a slope to collect condensation. As a result, there remains space under the lining, allowing the bathhouse to dry out. Power modern oven enough to warm up the bath well. Ideally, the steam room is dried by ventilation and a fuel-processing furnace.

If there is no attic, then you need to perform additional steps:

• coat the entire lining with clay with a layer of up to two centimeters to reduce heat loss;
• sprinkle the coating with a mixture of cement and wood chips (you can use slag up to 15 cm - this measure helps eliminate condensation).

If you want to make a properly functioning steam room, then you first need to take care of vapor barrier (not waterproofing with vapor permeability) of the ceiling to create a steam pocket up to the level of the top edge of the door to retain steam and create humidity in the region of 60%.

Vapor barrier of floor beams and the entire ceiling pie is a consequence, not a cause. Ceiling insulation without foil is completely irrelevant, since the steam room will not perform the functions that are assigned to it. If you need a steam bath, and not a sauna, you will have to open the casing and do a vapor barrier on the ceiling. If this is not done on time, then after a season or two you will have to replace damp insulation and rotten beams.

To protect wall structures, regardless of what they are made of, it is necessary to insulate the outside to prevent moisture from entering in the form of condensation at the dew point into the material. For the Russian type of bathhouse, insulating the walls from the inside is not necessary, since it is possible to create a regime of 60° and 60% even with leaky walls, but with a well-waterproofed ceiling and volumetric brick oven with a powerful thermal core inside. Ideally, on top aerated concrete walls put foam glass insulation in 50 mm thick slabs, and then plaster and make decorative wood paneling.

Flat ceiling

He is not seen as often as before. The use of hewn round timber is common. This method was previously considered the most profitable - people only had to go into the forest and chop everything they needed for construction themselves. This is currently the most expensive option.

There are several installation options.

1. Along the crowns of the log house, if small area premises (length no more than 2.5 m). Boards of small thickness (50 mm) are used as flooring, even more economical way– edged tongue-and-groove options (25 mm).
2. Eat interesting option coverings with unedged sanded boards. They are laid in 2 levels. Gaps and irregularities of the first level are covered by the second level.
3. On the floor beams. With this option, the area of ​​the room can be larger. An accent on the beams will add flair and look great.
4. On load-bearing frame from slats. Suitable for small spaces and used less frequently. Make it easier. But if the room has an attic, then it cannot be used. The roof may not be able to handle the heavy load.

The process takes place in several steps.

1. The attic is lined with a vapor barrier film (PIP) with an overlap of 10-15 cm (foil surface down).
2. Mineral wool is placed on top of it (instead, the surface can be covered with expanded clay or covered with a mixture of sawdust and clay).
3. The work is completed by laying a waterproofing film (WIP) - roofing felt or polyethylene.

False ceilings

They have load-bearing capacity, are often used as an attic, and their installation will cost you much less.

To make this coating, you need to install the beams in advance. Then boards or panels of tongue-and-groove boards are evenly laid on them. This structure is insulated with fibrous material. The installation process will take place in stages:

1. The GIP is taken and laid on the beams from the roof side. This is done overlapping.
2. Boards or sheets of plywood are placed on the waterproofing.
3. Mineral wool is laid between the beams. Its thickness varies from 150 to 250 mm (depending on the climate of the area). All joints must be covered with another sheet.
4. We attach a vapor barrier to the bottom of the beams.
5. Then we attach the wood slats.
6. At the last stage, the lining is attached.

After completing all the work, you will receive extra bed for storage - attic or attic.

Panel ceiling

It's difficult to do on your own. To begin with, a special structure is made from panels. Then it needs to be fixed on top of the cross beams or on the top of the wall. How the installation works:

1. Boards are placed closely on the supports (perpendicular).
2. Then we attach narrow boards to the inside of the PP, they will be the sides.
3. The next step will be laying the PIP.
4. We put ecowool (or any other) into the resulting space of the panels.
5. Then you need to put a film of polyethylene or roofing felt.
6. The final stage will be the installation of the boards; they will be the future floor.

Insulation for the ceiling in a bathhouse: which material is best suited

Previously, it was customary to use natural raw materials such as moss, clay, sawdust, straw or earth.

Now people have begun to use the most effective coatings. They make all the work easier, even if you are not a professional builder. For example, it is widely used:

• basalt wool;
• expanded clay;
• penoizol;
• ecowool and others.

You can also use polystyrene foam and glass wool. But when heated, the former emits harmful gases and can ignite. A good protective suit is recommended for working with fiberglass.

The question is whether or not to insulate the entire building only inside or on both sides. There are many opinions on this matter, but the truth is in the middle. There are many additional factors you need to know:

• this is a Russian bath or sauna;
• what material is the bathhouse built from?
• what kind of stove does it cost?

How to insulate outside

To keep the steam inside and not escape outside, you need to achieve a “thermos” effect. Insulation must be both inside and outside the building. To achieve this effect, you will need insulation for the ceiling in the bathhouse. There are different options:

• waterproofing film;
• expanded clay;
• mineral wool or others.

Builders create a “multi-layer cake” from these elements. Blocks are used on the roof side. PIP is placed on top. And the last layer is expanded clay, fibrous and other materials.

How to insulate from the inside

Let's look at some modern views insulation:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• foamed polypropylene;
• penoizol;
• growing aerated concrete.

Mineral wool

It has a fibrous structure that looks like ordinary cotton wool. During the production process, a crushed mixture of various rocks (basalt, dolomite, limestone) is added to it. This cotton wool is very popular due to its properties:

• long service time;
• good hygroscopicity (excellently absorbs water);
• resistant to overheating (fireproof).

The thickness of the wool is from 20 to 25 mm. The efficiency is much higher if it is placed on PIP. To work with it you need a thick suit and rubber gloves.

Foil insulation

It is perfect for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse. Metal spraying retains heat and provides good vapor barrier. This is economically beneficial because little fuel is required to heat the room. This insulation is presented:

• mineral wool with aluminum film (produced in rolls and slabs);
• polymer fabric based on foil (has a small thickness, produced in the form of rolls).

Foil has 2 purposes:

• reflect IR rays;
• protection (waterproofing or vapor barrier) ceiling from moisture and rotting.

This insulation resists high temperatures, is easy to cut, and does not emit toxic fumes. But if the entire steam room is packed in foil, then it is absolutely not vapor-permeable. Therefore, the room turns out to be not comfortable (heavy), like in a greenhouse; therefore, in such a bathhouse it is necessary to do proper ventilation.

Expanded clay

By appearance resembles small clay stones that have pores. Absorbs water abundantly, which is its weak side. It is used in combination with steam and waterproofing materials. Expanded clay also has many advantages:

• environmentally friendly product, without foreign toxic impurities;
• does not ignite;
• has a long service life;
• bacteria and fungi do not form in it;
• cheap product;
• it's easy to use.

Penoizol

It is foam plastic in liquid form and is classified as a thermal insulation material. It fills all areas (even hard-to-reach ones). It has many advantages:

• cheapness;
• excellent quality (does not expand when it dries);
• does not ignite;
• lasts a long time;
• Mold and mildew do not form on it.

Cement and sawdust

This method of insulation is characterized as “old-fashioned”. To do ready mixture, you will need 10 parts of sawdust, one of lime, and one of cement. Then add 1.5 parts of water to get the finished product.

The solution is evenly distributed over the entire surface. This is an economically profitable option, since the cost is very low. In addition, the resulting solution is environmentally friendly. Minuses:

• it is difficult to prepare;
• thermal insulation properties are lower compared to other options;
• no protection against mold;
• When dry, cracks appear that need to be greased.

Ecowool insulation

Quite an effective way to retain heat. Environmentally friendly fibrous mass made from cellulose. Substances that improve its properties are added to it: boric acid, sodium tetraborate. Thanks to them ecowool:

• fire resistant;
• resists the development of bacteria;
• prevents the appearance of insects and rodents.

It is also lightweight and spreads over the entire area, filling the voids. Its main disadvantage is moisture absorption. This reduces thermal insulation.

Features of insulation products

Manufacturers offer various membrane films that protect materials from high humidity. Experienced builders recommend purchasing vapor barrier upholstery with a reflective foil layer that does not allow heat to escape. The following types with a foil layer are distinguished:

• polypropylene;
• kraft paper;
• roofing felt;
• membrane;
• foil;
• coating

This film is installed with a large overlap (10-15 cm), and the joints are taped with foil tape for construction work.

Available in specialized departments of stores wide choose waterproofing products - foil-coated kraft paper, construction membrane and other products. Although you can save money and purchase regular plastic film or roofing felt.

How to insulate concrete floors

If you are completely confused by the wide range and do not understand what material to use, then take the advice of experienced builders. For example, with concrete floors It is recommended to use expanded clay.

No special preliminary preparation is required. For convenience, timber slats can be attached to the base of the roof. This will make it easier to check the uniformity of expanded clay distribution. Although this condition is advisory in nature.

So, pour expanded clay (30 cm thick) over the entire surface. An ordinary garden rake will help distribute the granules evenly. If the attic space will be used in the future and a floor is provided, then expanded clay is laid level.

If all the backfill is leveled, you need to lay the GIP. Quite suitable durable polyethylene. It is distributed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Tape is glued to the joints.

If you want to make a floor, then planks are laid on the beams.

This is a fairly cheap and easy-to-follow method that will help you insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands. But because it is cheap, it does not become less effective.

Installation of thermal insulation

To achieve the main goal - accumulation and “saving” of steam, you need to make 2 layers of PIP and 1 additional layer for thermal insulation. This measure will make the room warmer and more comfortable.

Experts advise placing layers perpendicularly. This arrangement will increase the strength of the entire structure and help avoid severe deformation. If you use mineral wool and clay, the process will take place in several steps:

1. is taken unedged board(5 cm) and is attached to the bottom of the beams;
2. to support the filing, we fix the flooring along all the bases;
3. tongue and groove slats made of aspen are attached to them (taking into account the gap for ventilation);
4. we'll lay the roof outside vapor barrier material;
5. spread mineral wool 15 cm wide over the laid mixture;
6. then we lay polypropylene film;
7. We place boards on top of the resulting structure; this is the future floor of the attic.

If everything is done correctly, the end result should be an excellent steam room. All the steam will remain inside for a long time, and the steam room will not cool down for a long time.

Dry insulation method

Specialists Sosnin Yu.P. and Buharkin E.N. In their book they offer the following method:

1. we take tongue and groove boards (25 mm) and fasten them to the beams, then treat them with drying oil twice so that they become moisture resistant;
2. we sheathe them, maintaining a moisture gap of 3 cm;
3. spread a film on top (polyethylene, roofing felt, or better yet, a foil coating with reinforcement);
4. the next layer can be sand or slag (20 cm thick).

If you properly insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse, following the recommendations and following the technological process, then:

• heat loss will be significantly reduced (up to 35%);
• there will be no fungi or pathogenic bacteria on the surfaces of the steam room;
• less firewood will be required;
• the steam room will last you longer.

Besides these positive points, there are others:

• you with your own hands without large investments can do this work;
• choose all the materials that suit you in terms of price and quality.

And the best part is that you and your loved ones will be able to spend time pleasantly and comfortably in your updated sauna.

The question of how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse is of interest to those who like to take a steam bath, but we will find out how to maintain steam and temperature in a steam room so that the heat does not escape through the walls and ceiling. In the meantime, let's talk about the physics of heat.

There is such a thing as heat transfer. A cup of hot coffee cools down in contact with environment; Although air is a poor conductor of heat, the temperature of the coffee decreases until equilibrium is reached - the law of thermodynamics.

Coffee will not cool below room temperature. How to do this quickly? Speed ​​up heat transfer! Pour coffee into a metal mug. Metal has a higher thermal conductivity than porcelain. And during the transfusion process itself, the liquid comes into direct contact with the air and transfers heat energy to it.

Convection– heat transfer due to the movement of liquid or gas. When bathing in a sauna, you pour water onto hot stones, the water evaporates and conveys a hot feeling to those in the sauna.

What happens to the temperature in the steam room? There will be no significant drop in temperature; a ladle of water will not be able to take away the heat from the stones. But saturated water vapor has a density higher than dry vapor, which will occupy the upper position (that’s why it’s hot on the top shelf); the air will take longer to cool down, the less heat transfer from the walls and ceiling of the steam room.

Radiant Heat, emitted as infrared radiation directly from the stove, differs from the other two methods because no medium is needed to transfer heat between two separate objects.

The ideal protection against these forms of heat transfer is thermos. Essentially, it is a bottle within a bottle, between which the space is divided by a vacuum and a silver screen, a mirror, that reflects radiant waves.

The most vulnerable point of heat loss in this device is the plug. In the case of a bathhouse, this is ceiling and walls. Their heat transfer depends on the material from which they are made and their ability to retain heat in the bath.

You need to create a barrier against heat loss using thermal insulation, like in a thermos. To protect the material from moisture, there is vapor barrier films. There are two known methods of ceiling insulation: from inside the bathhouse And outside. The choice of material depends on which side of the ceiling or wall the bathhouse is insulated on.

The best way to insulate a bathhouse ceiling is external insulation from the attic side. Here are the advantages:

• There is no loss of space in the bathhouse, dressing room, rest room, shower room, and others;
• Larger selection of insulating materials;
• Requirements environmental safety and moisture resistance is not as strict as inside the bathhouse;
• Installation is simplified, it is convenient to lay vapor barrier film and insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the outside?

There are countless options. If the attic floor is made of OSP slabs, then they are laid vapor barrier film, and the ceiling of the bathhouse is insulated on top basalt wool. Lay in two layers to cover the joints, then cover on top vapor barrier film, put scraps of lumber on it and that’s it, if the attic is not used.

The old way is even simpler: insulation of the ceiling with sawdust and clay. Our ancestors added clay to prevent mice from settling in sawdust.

Bathroom ceiling insulation expanded clay They do this: they put reinforced polyethylene film on the substrate, then pour expanded clay on top. In general, they always tried to make do with local materials for insulation; slag was also poured into attics, pre-screened through a large mesh and an excellent insulating material was obtained. But now more often they make floors and use the attic space for household needs, a kind of attic where you can work and relax.

Special requirements for the arrangement and insulation of the roof. The floors are arranged like this: a vapor barrier film is laid on the subfloor, logs from edged boards 20 x 100 or 40 x 100 mm are attached, and insulation is placed between the logs. Instead of basalt wool, it is better to insulate mineral wool "Eco", then they cover the top with chipboard, plywood, OSP - they make the floor.

The construction market is replete with thermal insulation materials. Choosing which insulation for the ceiling in a bathhouse is best suited for internal installation and which one is best suited for external installation is not easy. When choosing, be guided not only by the brand, but also technical characteristics of the material. Not the least important role is played by the flammability class of the material, its characteristics of thermal conductivity, density, environmental friendliness, ease of installation and transportation.

The inside of the bathhouse is insulated if it is made of heat-conducting material: brick, concrete plates, thin boards. Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool can be done with your own hands by anyone who knows how to use a building level and has the skills to do the work. A vapor barrier is attached to the wall and ceiling, and a sheathing is made from timber. First, the timber is screwed vertically to the wall with self-tapping screws. Make stands with a distance of 60 cm around the entire perimeter. Then the same design is made on the ceiling.

Advice. Before laying the mineral wool between the bars, make holes in the ceiling: 1- for ventilation (in the far corner from the door), 2- for the insulation box chimney.

Below we will look at how to do this. The transverse dimensions of the timber depend on the type thermal insulation material, laid between them. Mineral wool is sold in rolls. Before installation, you need to cut the roll in half, you will get a strip of 60 cm. Wait for the strip to take its shape. When unfolded, it will swell with air, which will fill the pores. Attach between the slats as shown in the image. Choose environmentally friendly materials.

Then additional insulation the ceiling of the bathhouse is covered with foil, which has a dense paper base, which plays the role of a heat insulator; the mirror part reflects radiant energy, trapping heat. Begin to attach the rolled foil from the floor to the ceiling with staples to the bars with an overlap of 5-10 cm, the seam is glued with adhesive foil tape.

Advice. Choose the right quality material. Require a safety compliance certificate. Not all materials are suitable for insulating a bathhouse from the inside. Ensure compliance with the rules for installing chimneys. 90% of fires in stove baths occur due to improper cutting of the chimney pipe through the ceiling, attic floor and the roof.

Insulation considered budget option. There are other materials that are more expensive, but effective in their thermal insulation qualities, since they have 3 protection barriers: waterproofing, vapor barrier, thermal insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

Installation of thermal insulation with SPU Sauna-Satu panels does not require preparation. Now that you know how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool, make exactly the same sheathing for the panels if the walls are crooked.

Panel sizes: 1, 2 x 0.6 x 0.03 m and 2.4 x 0.6 x 0.03 m have the same width as the standard one roll insulation. Wooden surfaces in the bath, before installing the panels, it is recommended to soak antiseptic solution.

SPU Sauna-Satu panels have a tongue and groove connection. IN Scandinavian countries These plates are used for insulating saunas, including using steam. Special sealing foam seals the joints; the panels can be installed both horizontally and vertically. Installation instructions:

1. Prepare: knife, fasteners, sealing foam and aluminum tape.

2. Before installing the first panel, cut the tenon along the entire length of the panel.

3. The first panel is placed on the floor with the cut side and applied to the wall. Before installation, a sealant is applied to the joint.

4. The panel is pressed tightly against the seal, holes are drilled and the umbrellas are driven in at the fastening points. Fasteners, tape, seal - everything is included in the kit. Ask the sellers.

5. The panels fit easily into the groove. Each joint is coated with a sealant. Apply to panel edges before installation.

6. The panels are then attached to ceiling beams, seal the corners, carefully cut off excess foam, and additionally seal all joints with tape.

7. Below, if you plan to screed the floor, remove the top layer of the panel 10-15 cm from the floor along the entire perimeter and make waterproofing in the places of the baseboard where the wall meets the floor. Apply several layers of waterproofing paste with a brush, stick on waterproofing tape and apply the paste again. Then they make a sheathing for clapboard covering.

8. Finishing clapboard.

Insulation of the ceiling involves cutting it under an insulating box through which the pipe will pass. This is what the factory version of the box looks like.

The thermodynamic processes occurring in the bathhouse during heating and procedures must remain inside the system (steam room) for as long as possible, and this is only possible with proper thermal insulation ceiling, walls, section of cutting the ceiling in the place of pipes, doors.

Useful video

Benefits from correct selection materials and installation of thermal insulation are obvious - the speed of heating the bath, fuel economy, and most importantly - the pleasure and health that you will experience during the bath procedures. Be careful. Don’t make a mistake in choosing materials, contact those who carry out this work comprehensively: thermal, sound and waterproofing, installation ventilation systems, other jobs.

The operating conditions of bathhouses (especially steam rooms) are not similar to the usual operating conditions of residential premises. The microclimate parameters of high-temperature spa areas are important not only for creating comfort, but also for prolonging the life of the buildings themselves. In addition, the problem of energy saving becomes more and more urgent every year. “What is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse?” — special attention is paid to this issue, since heat losses from upward flows of heated air and steam can amount to up to 30% - 35% of the heat exchange of a steam room.

In addition to the need to significantly reduce energy losses, it is necessary to achieve certain parameters on vapor barrier. At the same time, we must not forget about special requirements to the safety and environmental friendliness of all materials used. When choosing the design of the ceiling lathing for a bathhouse, the types of strength elements, membranes and insulation, one should proceed from compliance with three basic principles:

• quick kindling;
• slow cooling (comfort and heat saving);
• a special microclimate characterized by the accumulation of steam (condensation must be avoided).

The classic approach to arranging the ceiling in a steam room involves sewing up the rough plane (adjacent to load-bearing beams) wide thick boards - “forty”. A thickness of 50 mm is considered excessive. It is known from application experience that such flooring begins to accumulate moisture, which does not have time to evaporate between steam sessions. As a result, the likelihood of getting a ceiling prone to condensation increases.

When equipping a room with a classic “magpie” lathing, the bathhouse ceiling is most often insulated with mineral wool, expanded clay or other proven insulation materials from above - from the roof side.

The current trend is associated with the use of two types of insulation, one of which is reflective, and the second plays the role of the main one. The best way to insulate a bathhouse ceiling in order to implement the functions of infrared reflection and thermal break will be discussed in the following sections of the article.

The role of foil materials and vapor barrier films

There are no ideal insulation materials for baths. It is impossible to equally realize the reflection of heat rays, resistance to heat transfer and vapor barrier with one material. Aluminum foil and foil sandwiches such as folgoizol allow you to select the optimal combination of materials for equipping bathhouses of any design.

For example, foil insulation makes it possible to install non-hygroscopic mineral wool, as it is an ideal vapor barrier.

The reflective layer is located immediately behind the decorative ceiling trim. If the main heat-protective layer is placed further, then an air gap of at least 2 - 3 cm must be provided between it and the reflector.

It is advisable to limit the use of polyethylene films to waterproofing in under-roof areas. Vapor barrier without condensation is much better provided by foil sandwiches and membrane materials with special microvilli.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

Mineral (also known as basalt) wool is used more often than other materials as the main insulating layer. For many specialists involved in the construction of bathhouses, the question of “how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse” has long been resolved in its favor. Main advantage stone wool above all other insulating materials - high heat resistance and fire safety. Unlike glass wool, the fiber structure based on molten basalt is not harmful to the respiratory system. However, insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool also has serious limitations. This is the high hygroscopicity of the material and the presence of hydrophobic impregnations designed to resist the penetration of moisture. Impregnations are made on the basis of waxy, low-melting compounds that are prone to unwanted gas emissions when heated above 70 °C - 80 °C.

Ceiling insulated with mineral wool

Not all mineral wool is suitable for arranging baths. Only non-impregnated brands with a direct indication of their intended use in spa areas should be used: for example, “ISOVER Sauna” or “ROCKWOOL Sauna Butts”. First material - roll type, the second is made in the form of slabs. Both are lined on one side with a vapor barrier based on aluminum foil. The ceiling of the bathhouse should be insulated with mineral wool while providing double-sided hydro- and/or vapor barrier. When installing foil or other types of protective layers, it is necessary to leave an air thermal insulation gap between the cotton wool and the membrane.

Use of expanded polystyrene

In a number of sources you can find statements about the inadmissibility of using foam plastics (PPS) and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) for the equipment of baths and saunas due to the release of harmful substances by these materials when heated. Others claim that the thermal destruction of this insulation begins at 160 °C, and the under-ceiling space of a Russian bath can only warm up to 100 °C - 110 °C. And therefore, they say, restrictions on lining the steam room with foam plastic or EPS do not make sense.

Let's dot the i's in this matter. The fact is that neither the first nor the second position is fully justified. Surface emission of styrene can begin even before thermal degradation (in the range of 90 °C - 130 °C).

Therefore, the material cannot be used as an inner layer of insulation that is in direct contact with the decorative lining of the ceiling in the steam room. But provided that reflective two- and three-layer foil materials are used, it is quite possible to place a heat-protective layer of EPS or EPS behind them, since the temperature on the back surface of the sandwich does not exceed 50 °C.

Expanded polystyrene for a bathhouse ceiling is only possible with a reflective multilayer screen

It is advisable to use expanded polystyrene to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands, working alone. It is especially convenient to use EPS boards if it is necessary to install a layer of insulation on the lower surface draft ceiling. Without assistants, it is extremely difficult to carry out such work with loose materials such as mineral wool.

Expanded clay

Ceiling insulation with expanded clay is used in bathhouses that have under-roof spaces (attics, attics). The properties of expanded clay are in many ways similar to those of mineral wool. The same advantages: environmental friendliness, resistance to high temperatures... and the same disadvantage: the material absorbs moisture too well. From below it must be protected from the penetration of steam, and from above - from the effects of atmospheric and condensation moisture.

In addition, the fired granules of this heat insulator have much lower resistance to heat transfer than mineral wool. For this reason, the required thickness of the effective embankment is at least 30 cm.

This option is suitable for large steam rooms. Since the floor beams above spacious rooms have a significant vertical section, deep natural niches are formed for backfilling required quantity expanded clay.

Self-growing foam concrete and other DIY insulation materials

Ceiling insulation with clay and sawdust, homemade cellular concrete, moss and other exotic materials are advisable if you have access to these relatively cheap or free thermal insulators.

If during the construction process you have a surplus of basic rough materials (for example, cement), then some of them can be used to equip a thermally insulated ceiling in the steam room. The technology of self-growing aerated concrete is based on the interaction of three main components: cement, water and a special gas-forming powder. In addition to the listed materials, density-reducing components such as sawdust and straw can be added to the mixture.

The main advantages of the technology compared to expanded clay backfills are lower thermal conductivity and greater moisture resistance. It is enough to fill the resulting cellular material with a layer of 10 - 12 cm. Expansion under the influence of gas-forming additives, in addition to heat-saving properties, helps to obtain a continuous surface without cracks and gaps. In addition, waterproofing is not necessary with this option.

If you have your own carpentry production, and the under-roof zone of the bathhouse allows for backfilling in large layers, then it is possible to implement insulation of the ceiling with sawdust, combining them with sand, clay and some other construction and natural materials. Clay has good vapor and waterproofing properties. Therefore, before filling the sawdust, first make a clay layer about 2 cm thick. Then the sawdust is filled with a layer of about 10 - 15 cm in height. Sand, dry earth or moss mixed with pine needles are placed on top of the sawdust in a layer of approximately 15 cm. Mixtures of sawdust and clay are also used as masses that have both heat-saving and waterproofing properties.

How long the heat will be retained in the rooms directly depends on how the ceiling in the bathhouse is insulated. Anyone who is at least a little familiar with the laws of physics knows that heated air is always rises up. But if it comes into contact with the cold surface of the ceiling, it will cool down very quickly and begin to sink down. Thus, the steam room will quickly cool down, because the stove will not be able to cope with the heating of the rapidly circulating air. Plus, an uninsulated ceiling in a bathhouse always means unpleasant drops of condensation hanging overhead, ready to fall down at the most inopportune moment.

quite possible using a variety of thermal insulation materials. But in order to achieve the desired effect, this work must be carried out correctly; it is worth noting that insulating the ceiling is only the first stage of internal insulation of the entire bathhouse. However, if available necessary materials, the task seems feasible even for an inexperienced builder if he follows the technological recommendations.

Insulation will become effective if the sequence of stages is followed. Work on insulating a bath ceiling consists of three main stages - vapor barrier, thermal insulation and waterproofing.

You should never trust those manufacturers of insulation materials who claim that their products can “in one fell swoop” replace and vapor barrier membrane and waterproofing film are just an advertising ploy. If you need to get high-quality insulation, you should not deviate from time-tested technologies.

Video: theoretical justification for the need to insulate the bath ceiling

Insulation materials

To choose the right insulation material for the bathhouse ceiling, you need to know what requirements it must meet.

Since the ceiling of the bathhouse will constantly be in special conditions such as high temperature and high humidity, the insulation must have the following qualities:

• Increased resistance to temperature changes and high humidity.
• Not predisposed to the emergence of forms of microbiological life (mold, fungus, bacteria, etc.), to the appearance of nests of insects and small rodents.
• Should fit well with flooring and finishing materials.
• Have a low score moisture absorption.
• What is important is the environmental purity of the material, which does not emit harmful, dangerous fumes or simply unpleasant odors. Bathhouse, after all.
• Low thermal conductivity, that is, the insulation should retain heat inside the room as much as possible and not allow the cold to penetrate from outside.
• Easy to install without losing the quality of the thermal insulator.

In the table are some specifications common insulation materials:

Key performance characteristics	Name of material	Indicators in numerical terms
Density (kg/cu.m.)	Mineral wool	100-120
	Expanded polystyrene	25-40
	Polyurethane foam	45-50
	Expanded clay gravel	250-300
Thermal conductivity coefficient W/(m×°K)	Mineral wool	0,040-0,045
	Expanded polystyrene	0,035-0,040
	Polyurethane foam	0,028 - 0,035
	Expanded clay gravel	0,10-0,16
Moisture absorption%	Mineral wool	up to 4%
	Expanded polystyrene	up to 5%
	Polyurethane foam	to 10 %
	Expanded clay gravel	10-15%

You can take a closer look at some thermal insulation materials that are especially often used in bathhouse conditions.

Izover

Isover is mineral-containing insulation, which can be said to be affordable and very practical to use. It belongs to the group of mineral wools that can have different basis- slag, basalt, dolomite, diabasalt and others.

- one of the most popular insulation materials for ceilings of houses and baths. This material is produced in rolls and slabs, which is very convenient for installation. In addition, there are options on sale that have a foil coating, which creates the effect of reflecting heat into the room, increasing it thermal insulation. Isover is made from fiberglass, that is, it is an improved analogue of glass wool. Has the following technical characteristics:

• Its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.038 W/(m×°K), which is an excellent indicator for insulation.
• Isover is one of the best sound insulators.
• It is not a breeding ground for any form of life.
• It is highly moisture resistant.
• Light in weight, making it easy to climb upper floors and installation of insulation between joists and rafters.
• Sufficiently environmentally friendly pure material, which is ensured by its composition - sand, soda and limestone. At the same time, it is characterized by resistance to chemical influences.
• Elasticity, which ensures a tight fit to the sheathing during installation and ease of transportation - the material is compressed by 25-40% of the total volume.
• Durability of use - the insulation lasts for decades without losing its original qualities.
• The material is not flammable - the packaging is marked “NG”.

The material also has its disadvantages, which are no less important to know about than its advantages. But, by and large, only one significant negative point can be named:

The use of isover is possible only in conditions where the temperature does not exceed 250-300 degrees. But such a temperature regime in a bathhouse is only possible in the event of a fire. The insulation itself is not a flammable material, but it can emit a certain amount of smoke.

Styrofoam

Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is a material familiar to everyone, which has become the basis for a number of other modern insulation materials. These polymer materials Due to their qualities, they are also quite suitable for insulating the ceiling in bath rooms, however, they are not without drawbacks.

Polystyrene foam in a bathhouse is far from the best material

To the advantages thermal insulators based on polystyrene foam include:

• Low thermal conductivity of 0.037–0.040 W/m×° TO — is one of the best indicators among all insulation materials.
• The possibility of use in a wide temperature range, which allows them to insulate not only ceilings, but also the walls of houses built in regions with harsh climates.
• Easy installation of any of these polymer insulation materials.
• The ability to effectively perform the functions assigned to this material for three to four decades.
• Expanded polystyrene treated with fire retardants becomes resistant to fire, and due to this, its scope of application has expanded significantly.
• Very low moisture absorption, which is very important for bathhouse premises.

TO negative qualities expanded polystyrene materials the following can be attributed:

• Insulation on this basis is subject to decomposition and loss of heat-insulating qualities under the influence of ultraviolet rays, therefore, after installation, the material must be immediately covered with finishing material.
• These materials, not treated with fire retardants, melt when burned, emitting very toxic smoke, dangerous not only to respiratory health, but also to human life.
• These insulation materials cannot be called environmentally friendly, since over time they begin to disintegrate and release toxic components. Such processes occur especially quickly when exposed to high temperatures. Therefore, if you look at polystyrene foam insulation from this side, then it is better to refuse to use them in the bathhouse.

For a long time, natural thermal insulation materials have been used to insulate baths. Such insulation materials currently used include:

— expanded clay of different fractions, made from clay;

— ecowool produced on the basis of cellulose;

— wood sawdust mixed with cement, clay or lime.

These materials are “breathable” - they not only retain heat, but also promote moderate air exchange, which is very important from the point of view of preventing the formation of condensation.

Expanded clay

This natural insulation can be called the most suitable for insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse. It has all the qualities that are necessary for this room. This backfill material, consisting of granules of different fractions, is made from clay. It is light and has a porous structure, which gives thermal insulating Effect.

TO positive properties expanded clay include the following:

• The environmental friendliness of the material allows it to be used both open and closed. It absolutely does not emit dangerous or unpleasant fumes, either when filling or after a long time.
• It is durable and does not lose its insulating properties throughout the entire period of its operation.
• Expanded clay is not flammable under any conditions, as it is made in the process of high-temperature firing of clay.
• The moisture resistance of the material protects it from dampness and from the emergence of microbiological life forms between the granules.
• Expanded clay is a good sound insulator.
• The material is frost-resistant and can withstand an unlimited number of freezing and thawing cycles.
• Has low thermal conductivity, which ranges from 0.12 to 0.16 W/m×° TO — This allows you to retain maximum heat in the bathhouse.
• Filling expanded clay is a simple and fairly clean process.
• In fine—and mid-fraction Rodents will never settle in expanded clay, which distinguishes it from other insulation materials.
• The material has a very affordable price.

Ecowool

Ecowool is an environmentally friendly insulation material that consists of 82 ÷ 85% natural cellulose, 5 ÷ 7% sodium tetraborate and 8 ÷ 13% boric acid.

Lignin, which is present in cellulose fibers of insulation, contributes to its adhesiveness when moistened. Boric acid protects fibers from the appearance of fungi, bacteria, and insects AndT. n. - that is, it acts as an antiseptic. Sodium tetraborate helps reduce flammability, and therefore the flammability of the material.

All auxiliary components, as well as cellulose fibers, are environmentally friendly and of natural origin.

Ecowool is an excellent insulation material, but the technology of its spraying is not always available to everyone yet.

Ecowool has its positive and negative qualities. The advantages include:

• Very low thermal conductivity, amounting to 0.035-0.041 W / m×°K.
• The insulation is environmentally friendly - it does not emit harmful fumes.
• If ecowool is applied “wet”, then when sprayed it will clog all the gaps and cracks, making the insulating layer completely continuous.
• The light weight of the material allows it to be laid in a layer of any thickness, which will help improve thermal insulation.
• When properly sprayed, ecowool can last a very long time - 40 ÷ 50 years.
• Both during “wet” and “dry” installation, ecowool does not leave waste.
• The material can be reused, as over time it does not lose its heat-insulating qualities.
• Eco-insulation is self-extinguishing, thanks to the treatment of fibers with fire retardants.
• Since cellulose fibers are treated with boric acid, they do not harbor rodents.

Negative qualities that can become an obstacle to the use of ecowool for insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse include:

• Moisture absorption ecowool accounts for up to 20%. If the attic is arranged high-quality ventilation, then after the insulation dries, its heat-insulating qualities will be restored. If the bathhouse is used constantly, and there is no time left to ventilate and dry the room, then it is better to use another insulation that will be more resistant to moisture.
• Another obstacle to installing insulation may be the need for special equipment. The point is that more effective method Application of ecowool on a surface is “wet”, when the raw material is first moistened in a special apparatus and then applied under pressure through a pipe onto the surface to be insulated.

Sawdust and cement or clay

The folk method of insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse is the distribution of a mixture consisting of sawdust and cement or clay on a prepared base. Sometimes sawdust is replaced with finely chopped straw.

Old traditional way insulation - sawdust with a binder

The thermal conductivity of this insulation material depends on the thickness and density of the laid layer.

In order to prepare such a mixture, you need to take sawdust, lime, cement and water in a ratio of 10: 1: 1: 1.5. All components are mixed well in dry form and only then poured with water and mixed into a homogeneous solution. The mixture should be thick enough - its readiness is checked by squeezing a lump of solution in the palm of your hand: if the lump does not crumble and water is not squeezed out of it, then the composition is ready and can be laid out on the surface and then distributed in an even layer.

After the mixture dries, cracks may appear on it; they must be repaired with the same solution.

The advantages of sawdust-based insulation include the following:

• Affordability. Sawdust is a waste material at woodworking enterprises, so it will cost you little, and sometimes even for nothing.
• Wood shavings, sawdust or straw are environmentally friendly materials.
• Insulation in finished form- non-flammable and can withstand even the highest temperatures.
• It has high moisture resistance and vapor permeability, which allows you to do without the additional purchase of vapor barrier material.
• This insulation is an effective heat and sound insulator, so it has been used for many decades, even although appeared on sale modern materials.

There are not so many negative aspects of this insulation, but they still exist:

• Labor intensity work - material after kneading it turns out to be quite heavy, so it is better to make it directly in the attic of the bathhouse.
• This insulation is a good heat insulator, but sometimes it is clearly not enough to maintain the desired temperature in bath rooms. Therefore, thermal insulation has to be strengthened by laying other materials with lower thermal conductivity on top.

It should be noted that this option is well suited for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse, and this has been proven over decades of operation of such structures.

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Vapor barrier

Vapor barrier in a bathhouse is simply necessary, especially on the ceiling, since all the steam rises there. If there is no protective barrier, then the steam will, if not penetrate, then settle under the sheathing, on the thermal insulation, and moisture will reduce the insulating qualities and contribute to the occurrence of fungus and rot.

The vapor barrier film will protect the thermal insulation from dampness and will not allow moisture to accumulate in the insulation and on the floor beams.

Most often, a special anti-condensation membrane is used to install a vapor barrier, which does not allow steam to pass through to the insulation, but at the same time allows the material to “breathe,” which prevents natural moisture from accumulating in it.

For bath rooms, the most suitable material is foil vapor barrier. This could be a special shiny film. When fixing it to the surface, you need to work extremely carefully, avoiding even the smallest tears, otherwise the process will willcarried out in vain.

More expensive, but also more reliable, are multilayer vapor barrier films made on the basis of kraft paper, which can also have a foil coating. For example, materials such as “Folgoplast”, “Megaizol”, “Izospan” and others are often used.

Vapor barrier sheets are laid overlapping and secured on top using special foil tape, which makes the surface solid.

The vapor barrier film is fixed on top of the laid insulation material. If it is secured to the floor beams with a stapler using staples, then the tape is glued on top of the hammered staples to create an absolutely airtight coating.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing the material separates the insulation from the attic, that is, it is laid on top from the attic side.

It will not allow moisture to penetrate into the insulation from the attic, and thereby protect against all the accompanying negative consequences. Water on this side may appear when the roof leaks or, in the form of drops of condensation, due to temperature changes and insufficient ventilation under-roof space.

The most commonly used waterproofing material is ordinary dense polyethylene film, roofing felt or more modern waterproofing films.

Methods for insulating a bath ceiling

There are several ways to insulate a ceiling. And the list of materials required for this depends on which one is chosen.

false ceiling

The false ceiling has the following design:

Scheme of the “pie” of a false ceiling

• Floor beams laid on the walls, which will become the frame for all other ceiling elements.
• Coming from the attic waterproofing material, which will completely cover the structure from moisture from above.
• Then a wooden or plywood flooring is laid on top of the waterproofing, also from the attic side.
• There is insulation material between the floor beams.
• The insulation on the room side is covered with a vapor barrier membrane.
• The last step is to cover the ceiling with natural wooden paneling.

The sequence of work depends on the selected insulation materials.

1. Expanded clay .

A - floor beams;

B - rough boards;

IN — vapor barrier;

G- insulation material;

D - waterproofing flooring;

E - sheathing made of boards or plywood.

If expanded clay is used to insulate the ceiling, then the work is carried out in the following sequence:

• Rough boards are screwed onto the floor beams from the side of the room; from the attic side, original boxes are formed.
• The gaps between the boards and floor beams are coated with a mixture of clay, lime and sawdust, which will create a vapor barrier layer, or a vapor barrier film is laid inside the boxes and on the floor beams.
• Next, expanded clay is poured into the prepared boxes.

• After backfilling, the expanded clay is covered with a waterproofing film on top.
• A board or plywood flooring is made on top of it.
• On the side of the bathhouse, the boards of the rough ceiling are covered with a vapor barrier film, preferably foil.
• A lining is installed on top of it.

Insulation occurs in the same way with a mixture of sawdust, lime, cement or clay, but such a solution is laid out in boxes after coating the cracks between the boards. After the mixture has hardened, you can lay additional mineral wool insulation on top or fill it with a layer of expanded clay. The remaining steps are carried out in the same sequence as when insulating only with expanded clay.

Video: insulating a bath ceiling with sawdust

2. Mineral wool.

Using mineral wool in mats or rolls, the insulation process is carried out as follows:

• From the attic side, waterproofing is laid and secured onto the floor beams, and then the plank covering is installed.
• On the room side, insulation is placed in the niches between the beams.

• Next, the insulation is tightened with one of the vapor barrier materials.
• Wooden slats are attached to the floor beams on top of it.

• Decorative natural wood is nailed or screwed onto the slats.

Flat ceiling

The floor ceiling is distinguished by the fact that it does not have floor beams, but consists of boards laid on the walls of the bathhouse structure, or on bars nailed along the perimeter of the entire room below the ceiling by 100-120 mm.

This approach is possible if thin insulation is used (no thicker than 5 mm), Necessary conditions In this method of ceiling installation, the width and length of the bathhouse rooms should not be wider than 2500 mm, and the boards covering the room should have a thickness of at least 50 mm.

Insulation of such a ceiling is carried out as follows:

• On wooden flooring flooring a vapor barrier layer is added;
• Insulation is laid on top of it;
• If expanded clay or mineral wool mats with a thickness of 80 ÷ 100 mm are to be used, then the sides will have to be nailed around the perimeter or the flooring will be arranged below the height of the walls, so before laying the boards, you need to immediately decide on the choice of insulation material;
• Next, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing film;
• Boards or plywood sheets are laid on top of all layers.

The advantages of this method of insulation include simplicity and speed of installation, as well as an affordable price, since less materials are required for arranging the ceiling.

The disadvantages are the inconvenience during repair work in case of damage to the insulation, and also the fact that the installation of this type of ceiling is only possible in small rooms.

If the insulation layers are not recessed between the sides, then it is recommended to build above such a ceiling without an attic, in order to avoid damage to the insulation system.

Panel ceiling

This type of ceiling is a structure made of panels, which include all the necessary components - these are panels made of support bars covered with boards, inside of which all layers of steam, heat and waterproofing are mounted. Mineral wool is usually used as insulation in order to reduce the weight of the panel, while the thickness of its layer should be no more than 100 mm.

A - vapor barrier layer.

B - insulation material.

IN — waterproofing.

G - the junction of the panels, which during their installation is also finished with a vapor barrier film and thermally insulated.

D— solid board, which is laid across the entire width of the boards. It connects all the ceiling panels together and is held together with them with using self-tapping screws.

E - short boards that are attached to each of the panels with a length of 1000 ÷ 1200 mm, and then the common board for all panels (G) is laid again. This is repeated every 1000 ÷ 1200 mm.

Z - overhead board that connects adjacent panels.

The knocked down panels with laid materials are lifted ready-made onto the walls of the bathhouse. The installation process is complicated by the fact that all layers of thermal insulation must be laid between the panels. To insulate this area of ​​the ceiling, pieces of mineral wool with foil sides are used.

It should be noted that the panel with all its “contents” has considerable weight, so this approach will be rational either with the use of lifting devices, or in a good team with reliable assistants. But in terms of the speed of ceiling installation, this may be the most advantageous option.

What type of bathhouse ceiling and, accordingly, material for insulation to choose - everyone can decide for themselves, having studied all the nuances of the structure. However, the most affordable and simplest of them is considered to be a false ceiling. Although it will cost a little more in price than the flooring one, it’s still worth choosing it is such a design has proven itself to be reliable, durable and strong.

Having carried out the installation efficiently, following all technological recommendations and not neglecting auxiliary materials, the owner of the bathhouse can be sure that the right warmth the premises will be completely preserved.