Economic advantages of laminated flooring are not only very affordable price. You can also significantly reduce costs by installing it yourself. The developers of the finishing material diligently “polished” its design, trying to alleviate the lot of builders and inexperienced performers, and succeeded in achieving their goal. The technology is extremely simple, but requires home handyman knowledge of a number of nuances. Before you start laying, you should find out how to lay the laminate correctly, so that your handmade work will please you with a presentable appearance and long service life.
Selecting a panel layout
Success at the finish line in the field of finishing will be ensured by an important component of any work - design. We are not talking about a professionally developed floor design with scrupulous calculations, but about a simple drawing with the dimensions of the room being furnished. It will help you present the final picture and choose the optimal layout of planks that imitate expensive walnut, birch or oak boards. We will start from the location of daylight sources, that is, from windows, since this factor is considered the main one.
Towards window openings laminate can be laid:
- perpendicular, due to which the direction of long butt seams between the boards will coincide with the direction of the sun's rays, and the joints will become almost invisible;
- in parallel, emphasizing the presence of seams due to the resulting shadow;
- diagonally or at any priority angle, in the opinion of the owners.
In general, laminated panels can be laid in 50 different ways, if they are edged with universal locks that allow the end sides of the panels to be combined with their longitudinal counterparts and vice versa. However, there are doubts that a novice finisher will immediately take on a coating with an impressive cost and master a rather complex installation method. Therefore, we will consider the most common version of laminated planks with Lock-latches at the ends and Click-locks along the longitudinal lines.
Most buyers of the most popular material prefer the first type of arrangement of laminated panels for obvious reasons. After all, it gives the impression of a monolithic floor without seams. The second type of direction is chosen if there is a desire to visually expand a narrow, elongated room. The third method is used if you want to optically expand small dimensions. Prerequisite diagonal laying It could be a non-standard room configuration or the idea of dividing it into functional sectors.
It's no coincidence that we started with location. The amount of material required for the arrangement depends on it. You need to decide at the start how to lay the laminate in order to purchase:
- for parallel and perpendicular installation of panels, 5-7% more material;
- for the diagonal and angled option, which requires numerous sawings of laminated boards, with a margin of 15%.
On the pack, the manufacturer indicates the square area covered by the strips contained in it. The material must be purchased taking into account the pre-calculated area of the room and with an appropriate margin.
You need to plan the installation of laminate boards in advance for the following reasons:
- Laminated planks will need to be cut, since the length of the panels is in extremely rare cases a multiple of the size of the room. In addition, it is necessary to shift the end joints so that the result is something like brickwork. It is unacceptable that the length of the panel segment used to complement the row be less than 30 cm. However, there are manufacturers who allow the use of 20 cm as an insert.
- We can also safely classify the multiple width of the panels as the size of the room as a pleasant, but rare, accident. The last row in most cases is made up of planks sawn off along the length. According to technological requirements, its width cannot be equal to or narrower than 5 cm. However, if such a situation arises, it will be necessary to increase the width of the last row by reducing the same size of the first strip. That is, both outer strips of the laminate floor will have to be sawed along the long edge. It is advisable to evenly distribute the covered distance for symmetry.
Displacement of end seams – required condition reliable connection. Independent craftsmen and experienced finishers are advised to deviate from the end line of the previous row by at least 1/3 of the length of the board. We managed to find out that in order to get a “brick” or “checkerboard” order in the layout of the panels, the laminated floor boards will have to not only be sawed, but also alternate rows, starting with a full-length panel and with a panel divided into parts.
You can alternate symmetrically and without following these rules of geometry:
- the symmetrical pattern of laying the slabs repeats the “pattern” of the floor, most often through one, less often through two stripes;
- the asymmetrical scheme does not force the master to adhere to any sequence at all; the offset is formed spontaneously by setting the last trim in the first row of the board to the beginning of the second and then by analogy.
Laying without symmetry is considered the most economical and simplest. However, the master must not forget that there should be no inserts smaller than 30 cm in the coating he creates. Therefore, you still need to draw and calculate the priority displacement size. If the drawing reveals a segment that does not meet the technological requirements, it is better to reduce the length of the first strip of the second row.
Note. It is necessary to leave a gap around the perimeter of the floor being laid, allowing the laminate to slightly change dimensions without the formation of heaving bumps or damage to the locks.
When planning, it is necessary to take into account that laminate flooring expands and contracts with temperature changes. It is believed that 1 m² of coating increases by an average temperature movement equal to 1.5 mm. Taking into account the average value, depending on the size of the room, the installers leave a compensation margin, allowing the coating to lengthen and shorten, from 0.8 to 1.5 cm.
Preparing to install a laminate floor
It is necessary to prepare both the material itself and the rough base for its installation. The base needs to be repaired and leveled:
- by grinding;
- pouring cement or polymer screed;
- plywood or GVLV flooring on point supports or joists.
As a result of leveling, differences in height level within a floor area of 2 m² should not exceed 2 mm. Before work, the rough base is carefully vacuumed so that grains of sand and debris accidentally caught in the locking joints prevent the panels from making strained creaking sounds.
Laminate flooring cannot be laid on the day it was purchased; it must be given the opportunity to “get used” to the surrounding conditions. Two days should be allocated for adaptation of the coating. Then we will release the panels from packaging and sort them by shade, if there are some “disagreements” in color. During the construction process, we will distribute slabs that differ in tone evenly so that we do not end up with too large areas of different colors.
Note. The laminated coating should acclimatize at a maximum air humidity of 60%, a minimum limit of 50%. The optimal temperature for addiction is 18º Celsius.
During the adaptation period, the panels should be placed horizontally, in stacks in the center of the room intended for finishing, so that the normal course of adaptation is not affected by the humidity of the walls.
Sequence of actions of the laminate layer
All that remains is to figure out how to properly lay laminate flooring on the prepared floor with your own hands and begin to implement the idea.
General procedure for the flooring process
We will lay the laminate floor as follows:
- We will completely cover the concrete base with strips polyethylene film 200 microns thick. It will protect planks made from moisture-sensitive components from water released by the base. Wooden subfloors do not require waterproofing. We lay the strips with an overlap of about 20 cm, and fasten them pointwise with tape for ease of further work.
- We lay a backing made of EPS, foamed polyethylene or cork. Since the thickness of the substrate is 2 mm or more, it must be laid end-to-end to avoid thickening. Mats or strips of backing are also secured with tape. It is desirable that the components of a multi-layer flooring system be laid “in a cross” with the previous and subsequent layers. It is recommended to place the backing strips perpendicular to the direction of laying the covering panels. This means that the insulating polyethylene for the concrete subfloor is laid perpendicular to the substrate, but in the direction of laying the laminate.
- We assemble the starting row of laminated boards, combining the end grooves with the end tongues in the manner specified by the manufacturer. For a perfect fit, tap the attached panels on the opposite side rubber mallet or with an ordinary hammer, but through a damper block or a piece of laminate so as not to break the locking system.
- Without deviating from the technological course and the selected layout scheme, we form the second row.
- We connect both assembled rows. Together with an assistant, we insert the tongue of the second row into the groove of the first strip at the angle specified by the manufacturer. Gradually lowering it down, pressing until it clicks with a characteristic clicking sound.
- We expose the assembled part of the floor to the wall, placing spacer wedges with a thickness equal to the deformation gap between it and the wall. These remote devices can be purchased or made with your own hands from laminate scraps. We also install wedges at the ends.
- We form and unite the third row with the assembled part of the floor. We proceed in the same way up to the last row, not forgetting about the spacers.
- To form the outer strip, measure each panel separately, placing the part turned upside down at the installation site. Piece measurements will help to avoid deviations associated with the traditional unevenness of walls in domestic construction. Not forgetting about the deformation indentation, draw a line on the inside with a pencil. We'll cut it off.
- To attach and adjust the panels of the outer row, we use a bracket. Craftsmen who are looking for their own ways to lay laminate flooring on the floor with their own hands more conveniently and cheaply use a hammer or a nail puller instead of a clamp.
Installation near pipes, radiators, doors
In the process of installing a laminated floor, there are specific moments, such as laying panels around pipes crossing the ceiling, designing a doorway and placing strips under low-mounted radiators:
- If the heating radiator makes it difficult to snap the board placed under it, cut off part of the ridge and attach the panel with glue.
- To install the coating around the pipes on the panel, we draw out their location with maximum accuracy, then drill holes whose diameter should be larger than the diameter of the pipes. Next, we will cut the drilled strip parallel to the end of the diagonal line and lay the main part of it in the usual way, and place the insert extending behind the pipe with glue. We will mask the remaining gaps with sealant or plastic covers.
- We start arranging the doorway by sawing off the jambs to the thickness of the coating being laid - laminate with a backing. In general, if there is a door frame in the opening, it is recommended to trim the jambs before starting work, so as not to contaminate the floor and the locks of the slats with dust and sawdust. Then you need to accurately measure and draw the actual configuration on the panels laid next to the jambs. We take into account that there should be a gap between the wall and the slabs, but this gap must be closed with a box, that is, the board must be placed almost tightly under the jamb beam.
IN doorway with a threshold, we will align the boundary line to it, without a threshold to the line located under the closed canvas. By the way, the canvas also needs to be “shortened,” but to the height of the coating, add the height of the plastic or aluminum transition profile that masks the seam. Similar end profiles cover expansion joints that divide the laminate floor into segments if the covered area exceeds 10.0 m in length and 8.0 m in width.
Note. The baseboard installed upon completion of the flooring is attached to the walls, and not to the floor.
Despite the presence of some features, complex process Laminate flooring devices cannot be called. All the issues that arise for independent installers are thoroughly thought out by the material manufacturers. All you have to do is put in the effort and be patient.
An inexpensive and relatively young type of flooring attracts not only with the abundance of colorful and textured options with an accurate imitation of the pattern of noble wood, stone and even reptile skin. A compelling argument in favor of purchasing a laminate floor is considered to be technological priorities, thanks to which the owner himself can carry out the arrangement of personal property.
To implement the idea, you do not need any experience in the field of construction or finishing. All that is required is strict adherence to the rules, thanks to which laying laminate flooring with your own hands will be done perfectly, and the material will last longer than the deadline, guaranteed by the manufacturer.
A decent base for laminate floors
Requirements for the base for installation
Laminate is a set of multilayer panels equipped with special locking systems on all four sides. Devices that close with a click speed up and simplify the work, but require special care from installers during the preparation of the room for arrangement.
In case of differences in the height of the “relief” of more than 2 mm on a floor area of 2 m², the locks may become loose and even break during operation. The consequences are quite disappointing: accumulation of dust and dirt under the coating, creaking, large, gradually increasing cracks and similar troubles.
We allow a uniform slope of the subfloor plane within 4 mm per 2 m². However, it is worth noting that it is not advisable to place furniture in areas with a slope.
Furniture items that rest on 4 legs will not have a stable position; in cabinets and chests of drawers, the doors will no longer close due to distortions.
Leveling is a guarantee of long service life
Regardless of the type, it must be aligned in accordance with the building code regulations:
- The old concrete floor needs to be repaired, expanded and cracks filled. cement-sand mortar. If there are large exfoliated pieces, they are removed and the recesses are filled with a self-leveling mixture. After hardening, the floor is either sanded or filled with a finishing screed.
- The newly poured cement screed is primed, for example with Ceresite ST 17 or 15, so that the upper weak concrete layer does not “dust”, so that the sand separated from the concrete body for some reason does not creak under the laminate.
- The old wooden floor is repaired and damaged parts are replaced. If it is possible to reduce the height of the ceilings, level them with plywood.
- Minor irregularities are “cut off” from the new plank flooring and from the plywood leveling with a grinding machine, after first deepening the fastener heads into a countersunk hole.
The listed types of rough foundations, as well as new linoleum without waves or loose areas, evenly laid tiles are thoroughly washed and dusted with a vacuum cleaner before laying laminated panels.
Substrate and insulating layer
Since impregnated paper is used in the production of multilayer material, it is inexpensive coniferous wood or slabs created by pressing wood waste, direct contact with moisture-releasing surfaces is highly undesirable.
Therefore, home craftsmen who want to install laminate flooring with their own hands should know that a vapor barrier layer is required between a fresh and old concrete floor, which can freely absorb moisture and transfer it to its constructive neighbors without much delay. Its function will be perfectly fulfilled by a diffuse membrane or ordinary polyethylene with a thickness of 200 microns.
Insulation is needed only for concrete floors; polyethylene does not need to be laid on a wooden base, plywood, chipboard or parquet.
- cement-sand screeds;
- directly concrete floors other than cement-sand screeds power and presence of gravel or crushed stone in the solution;
- monolithic floors and factory slabs with round voids in the body.
The “age” of the concrete base does not matter. Both new and old concrete floors can absorb and release water. The insulation will stop the attempts of water released by the concrete to penetrate the sensitive laminate, which means that moisture will not warp the panels. The strips are laid with a 20cm overlap on the previous sheet. Upon completion of all manipulations with the structure laminated coating polyethylene is covered with a plinth.
According to the manufacturers' instructions and technological rules When laying laminate, you need a substrate that performs a number of useful functions, such as:
- sound insulation that absorbs the sound of footsteps;
- protection against abrasive abrasion of the lower side in contact with the rough base;
- ensuring the relative static nature of the floating floor;
- leveling minor base defects;
- protection from moisture, which can also be released from wooden floors.
If laminated panels are laid on top of perfectly laid linoleum, then it can successfully fulfill the important role of the substrate.
If there is no previously carefully laid linoleum on the floor, then instead you can use sheet or rolled EPS, 3 mm thick air bubble film and a number of specialized composite materials. Cork is also an option, but builders consider it an expensive overkill for a budget laminate.
The thickness of the substrate determines the similar size of the panels. Since for home improvement it is strongly recommended to buy laminate with a minimum thickness of 9 mm, it is recommended to put 3 mm material under it.
Thicker stamps will require 4 or 5 mm. The manufacturer's instructions, attached to the packages of panels, must contain recommendations regarding the choice of this floor element. You should focus on them.
Laminate floors are installed using floating patterns, that is, they are not attached to the subfloor or to the walls, but are only connected to each other. The layers located under the panels are also not attached to anything, but lie freely in the form of functional carpets, pressed down by the weight of the floor.
Specifics and procedure for installing a laminate floor
Select a layout and make calculations
In order to evenly distribute the load and optimize the reliability of the connections, the laminated dies are shifted in each subsequent row, relative to the panels of the previous row. There should be no cross-shaped joints in the assembled covering.
If you look at it in plan, the picture of the correct laying of the laminate should resemble brickwork with a butt seam strictly above the center of the panels of the previous and subsequent row.
This is what professionals do; in contrast, home craftsmen shift the butt seam to the length of the segment remaining after laying the last die in the previous row. It's smart and economical, but not very pretty and less durable.
However, this method has become very popular among the people, although it allows you to reduce consumption by 2-3 laminated elements. For the most part, home craftsmen carry out installation this way, and manufacturing companies do not advise to philosophize by reinventing the wheel. The main thing is not to forget about the clear rules according to which:
- The length of the strip cut parallel to the end line cannot be shorter than 30 cm.
- The minimum width of the panel cut along the grain line should not be equal to or less than 5 cm.
- The butt seams in the rows are offset by approximately 1/3 of the length of the laminated element.
- When laying laminate flooring on a plank floor, the panels are placed crosswise with the floorboards.
In order to comply with the listed rules, it is wise to draw by hand a small and simple plan with the dimensions of the room being equipped. It is advisable to apply everything to it at once. architectural details, ledges, stoves, openings, etc.
Let's take into account that along the perimeter of the room being finished, it is necessary to leave 1 cm for a damper space, then we will estimate how many whole panels will fit in one row, and how many cm will have to be filled with trim.
We will put the remaining cm from the first trimmed strip in the next row and, by analogy, fill all the space drawn on the paper. The longitudinal ridge of the first row is sawed off flush before laying. This must be taken into account when making calculations.
We invite you to use our calculation calculator - perhaps it will help you:
Tool preparation and preliminary planning
Let's assume that we will lay it according to the simplest economical scheme using a section of the last panel as the initial element of the next row. We will place the longitudinal seams along the flow of natural light entering through the window opening. This makes the seams less noticeable. We'll start laying from the far corner of the left side.
A few pre-planning tricks:
- It is difficult to imagine that the first row will be formed only from whole panels, but since you are so lucky, then from the left end of the first die of the second row you need to saw off a segment, the length of which is equal to the offset value. That is, ½ or 1/3 of the length of a solid panel, depending on the preferred method of laying laminate elements.
- If, as a result of the distribution of whole rows, the width of the last of them turns out to be less than or equal to 5 cm, then not only the ridge will need to be sawed off from the panels of the first row. Calculate so that the two outer rows in the laminate floor are approximately equal in width.
- If there are interesting architectural elements, attracting attention, for example, a large fireplace, or a balcony above a bay window, we will begin to distribute the rows of laminated flooring from their central axis.
You will have to cut the laminate anyway. For practical and aesthetic cutting, you need to stock up on a jigsaw, even better miter saw. You should not use a hacksaw; it will damage the outer decorative layer. To obtain a beautiful cut line when sawing with a hand jigsaw The panel must be covered with tape.
It's just a matter of small things - let's start installation
Before installation, the material must be allowed to rest for 2 days in the room intended for finishing. After the multilayer tiles have become accustomed to the given conditions, the owner can safely begin covering the floor with an adapted laminate with his own hands or with the hands of hired workers.
The method of connecting the elements is indicated on the packaging of the material. The planks can be attached using:
- Lock-locks, for snapping of which the ridge is inserted into the groove of the previous panel strictly horizontally or vertically;
- Double click-locking devices, for joining of which the panel with the ridge is installed at an angle indicated by the manufacturer, then, by applying slight force and moving the element in a horizontal plane, it is brought to a click.
There is also an adhesive method for joining laminated dies, but it is now extremely rarely used. According to the adhesive method, the end and lobe sides of the panels are treated with glue before joining.
Regardless of the type of locking system of the selected floor covering, the laminate installation process can be carried out:
- by row assembly with subsequent attachment of finished rows to a gradually built-up floor;
- by attaching a separate strip through the longitudinal ridge to the previous row and through the end ridge to the previous plank in the row being laid.
Assembling the floor from individual tiles is preferred if there are no helpers and if the considerable length of the fully formed strip does not allow. However, many independent installers believe that it is easier and more convenient to assemble laminate flooring in rows.
You cannot “knock” laminated panels with a hammer to achieve a tight connection. Only through a block or through a piece of the laminate itself.
Have you decided on the most comfortable method? Forward:
- We will cover the entire area of the subfloor with underlayment. We lay the sheets or strips end-to-end and glue them with tape for ease of further work.
- We assemble the first row of panels with a pre-cut ridge. The cut side should be directed towards the wall, the lock of the slats should be towards the performer. To form the first row, it is not necessary to be located close to the wall.
- We assemble and attach a second strip of laminated panels to the first row.
- Then you can attach the initial elements of the future floor to the wall and place spacer wedges or factory spacers around the perimeter. These devices are needed to form a deformation indentation. The distance between the wedges is approximately 25 cm; they must provide a gap of at least 0.8 cm. The deformation gap should be narrower than the width of the plinth.
- By analogy, we follow to the bitter end, until the entire floor is covered with laminate.
- The covering must be placed under the existing door frame so that there is no gap between the jambs and the floor. To do this, we cut both frame posts from the bottom to the thickness of the laminate.
- At the points where the pipeline intersects the floor, you will need to make holes in the board with a pen drill or a jigsaw with a diameter greater than the same pipe size by min 1 cm. In general, it is necessary that the radius be increased by 1 cm, that is, an equivalent centimeter indentation should be left around the entire pipe . However, practice has shown that a centimeter gap is too ugly and large, and even after masking with sealant it noticeably spoils the impression. Moreover, it is left to compensate for thermal movements of the entire floor. Naturally, in a small area around the pipes, the coating will not move so intensively.
Cuttings of panels under radiators, near pipes and parts placed under the box are connected to the floating floor using glue. To join the last row or individual panels a special bracket is used - a clamp.
Usually laminate packages contain detailed instructions on how to install it. The manufacturer's recommendations must be strictly followed. However, there are questions that are not covered in the application or arise even before purchasing the material.
It would be great if, thanks to our article, a prudent owner would understand in advance whether he can arrange the property on his own, delve into the process, and then go to the store to buy laminate and lay it with his own hands.
Do you want to change your flooring, but are you afraid it will be expensive? Self-installation Laminate installation is easy and quick. It will help save time and money. The main thing is to follow the rules, be careful and prepare for the process.
Stages of work
Installation of laminate slabs is carried out in several stages, each of which affects the quality of work and service life of the new floor.
- preparing the base for the coating;
- laying the insulating layer;
- installation of panels;
- installation of skirting boards and thresholds.
The laminate is equipped with special latches that fasten adjacent sections. Anyone can install laminate flooring with their own hands with step-by-step instructions. No special education or skills are required for this.
What tools and materials will be needed
Before laying the laminate, first prepare:
- level;
- jigsaw;
- a hand saw or;
- mallet;
- centimeter wedges;
- ruler/centimeter/square;
- laminate;
- skirting boards, thresholds;
- wedges;
- marker.
To ensure that the work is not done in vain, all rules and sequence of actions should be strictly followed.
Preparing the base
Before laying the laminate correctly, prepare the lower level. If you do not level the bottom surface, the blocks will “walk.” Installation consists of serial connection panels and latching with locks. Not carried out during installation additional fixation floor neither to the baseboards nor to the bottom layer. Therefore, how long the laminate flooring will last depends on the preparation of the subfloor.
Regardless of the material of the subfloor, the surface is leveled, cracks and crevices are sealed. This can be done, just like laying laminate flooring, with your own hands.
When leveling, a difference in surface slope of more than 4 mm is not allowed. The optimal discrepancy in level is 2 mm.
If the slope exceeds 4 mm:
- tile locks become loose and break over time;
- gaps appear between the panels;
- the furniture is warped;
- cabinet doors begin to open or do not close;
- the floors squeak when you walk.
After leveling the surface, the final steps are carried out:
- The concrete floor is poured with a finishing screed or sanded.
- The cement-sand composition is coated with a primer. This prevents the appearance of cement dust and protects against unpleasant creaking when walking.
- align with grinding machine, cutting off irregularities. The cracks are sealed with putty.
Linoleum does not require special preparation for laying laminate. If necessary, level the linoleum surface.
Insulation layer
Before laying laminate flooring, padding material is laid on the concrete subfloor. It performs several functions:
- protects the bottom layer of laminate boards from direct contact with the cement-sand mixture;
- protects slabs from moisture;
- serves as a sound insulator;
- levels out microslope;
- serves as insulation.
Wooden subfloors and old linoleum do not need to be covered with an insulating layer.
The following are used as a layer between the subfloor and the main floor:
- diffuse membrane;
- polyethylene film;
- rolled/sheet EPS;
- special composite materials;
- bubble wrap.
The thickness of the underlay layer depends on the thickness of the panels. The product passport indicates the thickness of the layer between the main and lower levels. For panels 9 mm thick, a 3 mm insulator is used. The insulator layer is not fixed.
What to pay attention to before installation
When laying laminate flooring, cross-shaped seams are not allowed. There must be a gap between the joints. Professionals install panels taking into account that the seams are at the level of the middle of adjacent panels. When doing work by amateurs, this rule is not observed; it is allowed to make seams at the level of 1/3 of the panel. This method saves material.
Installation of laminate flooring on a wooden floor is carried out perpendicular to the location of the bottom layer.
When calculating the amount of material, take into account the cost of trimming panels located near the walls.
To prepare for installation, holes are cut around the pipes with a diameter 1 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe. The junction with the pipe is covered with a special laminate overlay or the hole is sealed with glue/putty. The best option– putty first, overlay on top.
Before laying the laminate, trim the panels correctly. Do not use a hacksaw for this. It breaks the protective layer of the slabs. To cut pieces of panels use a jigsaw or.
When choosing a laminate, take into account that its thickness does not affect the quality. Panels with greater thickness serve the same as thin ones, but are more expensive.
Manufacturers produce some slabs with an insulating coating on the bottom layer. In such cases, an insulating layer is not placed on the floor; they are limited to a film to protect it from moisture.
If installation is carried out in winter time, you cannot use laminate immediately after purchase. The material is given time to lie in the room so that its temperature becomes the same as in the house. This is not necessary for the warm season.
It is better to immediately purchase the required amount of material, taking into account the reserve for trimming. If in the course of work you purchase additional material, its appearance may differ from the main one.
When choosing panels, pay attention to the consumption for the area of the room. Some manufacturers indicate consumption per 2 m², some at 2.7 m².
Step-by-step instructions for laying laminate flooring
There are straight and diagonal laying of panels. Installation in a straight line (parallel to the wall) is the easiest way to lay the floor. The diagonal method requires skills and more material consumption. The popularity of assembling slabs diagonally is explained by the fact that with such a floor the room is visually perceived as larger.
Straight installation
Do-it-yourself straight-line installation of laminate flooring with step-by-step instructions in the video:
Step by step execution:
- The surface of the subfloor is leveled and covered with a primer.
- After the primer has dried, an insulating layer is applied. There are 2 ways to work with insulation. It is placed immediately on the entire surface or in parts as the laminate is laid. The second method is preferable, since in this case the coating remains intact. The layer is placed slightly over the wall, without fixation. If the room is on the ground floor, a polyethylene base is placed under the insulation. It will protect the lower part of the covering from dampness coming from the basement. The film is placed overlapping.
- It is accepted that the seams between individual laminate fragments should be parallel to the lighting. But this rule is not observed and installation is carried out without focusing on lighting.
- Installation of the panels begins after installing the wedges to the end wall.
- Cut off ½ of the whole part of the slab and install the first panel. The first row is formed. The end part is cut to the required size.
- The second row is laid first without fixing with locks. Each slab must be installed taking into account the location of the joining seam. Cross-shaped seams are not allowed in connections. The outer slabs are cut taking into account the connection at the level of ½ or 1/3 of the adjacent slab. After the second row is completely formed, the second row is carefully attached to the locks of the first row. Fix the connections with a smooth movement. The fragments are tapped with a mallet using a special backing.
- After installing 2 rows, check the level. If necessary, the slabs are leveled using a hammer.
- Gradually lay the entire floor.
- To connect to the pipes, use a jigsaw to cut out a hole whose diameter is 1 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe. The open surface is filled with glue or putty.
- The finishing row is laid using wedges located against the wall. If necessary, cut the laminate panels not only across, but also along.
After laying the floor, baseboards and thresholds are installed. For this purpose, special fasteners are used. Skirting boards are not fixed to the floor. Wooden skirting boards fit perfectly smooth walls. For surfaces with small defects use plastic skirting boards. Thresholds are chosen to be one- or two-level.
Diagonal mounting
Initial preparation is similar to that for direct installation. Do-it-yourself diagonal laying of laminate flooring in the video:
After preparation and coating with insulation, installation is carried out, starting from the corner.
Craftsmen advise first laying all the intact fragments, and then installing the trim sections connecting to the walls.
Installing a new floor yourself is not difficult and, if you follow the technique, will provide good result. To install laminate flooring with your own hands, you just need to be patient and do the job efficiently at every stage.
Laying laminate and installing skirting boards - video
Floors covered with laminate are considered one of the most practical, cheap, beautiful and easy to install. And this is true - you can cope with the task of laying them yourself, without even resorting to the help of specialists. The main thing is to have the desire and allocate time for work. But how to lay laminate? Let's look at this question in practice.
Laminate – a finishing floor covering, although considered easy to install and maintain, is quite delicate. It is demanding in terms of operating conditions and the installation process. If you neglect some of the features and rules for working with it, the coating will not last long.
The photo shows the process of laying laminate flooring.
Therefore, before starting work, it is worth ensuring the following conditions in the room:
- temperature range – 15-30 degrees above zero;
- air humidity – about 40-70%;
- level, cleared of debris and dried base;
- the room must be dry. If the humidity is high, you will have to buy more expensive moisture-resistant material;
- heaters and others heating devices cannot be turned on while working with laminate;
- It is recommended to close windows to avoid drafts.
Attention! Laminate flooring cannot be installed on sagging floors or cracked screeds. Otherwise, the material will not last long. The locks connecting the covering elements will break when the material flexes, which will ultimately damage the integrity of the base.
It is also important to remember that laminate flooring can be laid only 2 days after the material was delivered to the work site. It needs this time to “get used” to the new operating conditions - the laminate will absorb the necessary humidity, adapt to the temperature, so that during operation it will not change its size excessively. It reacts sharply to changes in room conditions - the effect of thermal expansion may appear.
It is necessary to leave the purchased laminate in the room where you plan to install the floor. This is necessary for acclimatization. This process takes about 48 hours
When choosing a laminate, you should focus not only on the color, but also on the quality of the material. It is not worth purchasing low-quality products that are too thin or not suitable for operating conditions. Such a coating will last too little and will quickly lose its appearance. Packages with laminate must be sealed, and before installation it is important to inspect all boards for damage or chips. Damaged installation elements cannot be used.
Prices for Tarkett laminate
Tarquette laminate
The process of laying the material may differ depending on what type of lamellas are used. For example, there are three installation methods, each of which uses a different type of material: laminate with joints Click or Lock, as well as the type of coating that is installed using glue.
Installation of laminate flooring with a click lock
When using the adhesive method, the laminate is glued to the rough base using special compounds. The technology is similar to laying parquet. Glue can also be applied to the joints between individual planks, which are then tightly joined to each other. But this method is now practically not used, with the exception of the design of premises with very high traffic or with high humidity air. It will not be possible to disassemble the laminate if necessary.
Installation of cover with type locks Lock involves the connection of individual planks shock method. That is, during operation, the tenon on one side of the lamella is driven into a groove on the other lamella. This coating is already losing popularity due to its disadvantages - labor-intensive work and complex parsing if necessary.
Important! If material with this type of lock is used, the work should be done carefully - control the impact force and use a special rubber or wooden block, placing it at the point of impact.
Nowadays, laminate with joints is most often used for laying this type of flooring. Click. Here the joining occurs due to a tongue and groove, but of a special shape in which the elements are securely joined and connected to each other without the use of impact technology. The panels are joined at a certain angle, after which the lamella is lowered to the floor - at this moment the snapping occurs. This connection allows, if necessary, to easily disassemble the finish and re-install it.
Methods for arranging lamellas
Laminate flooring can be laid in different patterns, according to patterns. Here you can choose any option you like, the main thing is to follow the drawing. There are several most popular layout options. The material consumption will also depend on the choice of method.
Table. Laminate layout options.
| Layout option | Description |
|---|---|
| This is the most economical option, since the amount of trimmings and waste will be minimal. The first row is laid first, and the remaining trim from the last plank can be used to start the second. The main thing is that they are at least 30 cm long. The amount of waste in this case usually does not exceed 5% of the material. |
| If you look at a laminate laid in this way, the joints will form a special pattern, reminiscent chessboard. In this case, the new row always begins with such a cutting length that the panel is shifted to the side by 1/2 from the previously laid one. The amount of waste in this case increases to 15%. |
| It resembles the classic installation option, only it is performed at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the walls of the room. It looks impressive, but the amount of waste becomes even greater - more than 15%. |
To avoid possible errors When creating a drawing, it is better to design the entire work in advance by sketching out a layout diagram on a piece of paper. And take into account that the minimum displacement of the joints should be 20 cm relative to the lamellas laid in the previously installed row.
Important! Regardless of which laminate is laid and according to what pattern, there should always be a compensation gap of about 1.5 cm between it and the wall. Otherwise, the material will be deformed. The area of 1 m2 of laminate under the influence of humidity and temperature can increase by approximately 1.5 mm.
When installing laminate flooring, it is important to consider light sources so that the gaps between the planks are less noticeable. That is, they are laid so that they are located perpendicular to the light source (for example, a window).
Also, pre-planning the installation will ensure that the planks in the last row will have sufficient width (100 mm). If it turns out that they will be smaller, then it is better to narrow the first row a little.
A major renovation of the premises requires updating the flooring. Many people choose laminate as the most modern material, which, when installed well, looks impressive and allows you to transform the interior. Working with this material, we get short time practical and attractive floor. If you have chosen laminate flooring, you should note that you can easily handle its installation yourself. Let's consider all the nuances of laying laminate flooring with your own hands.
Features of laminate flooring
Laminate has its own character and its own operating characteristics. Before deciding to install this material, make sure that this flooring will be ideal for the conditions of your home.
Laminate “loves” warm and dry rooms. The optimal humidity for this coating is 30-60%, and the temperature is 15-35 degrees. In other conditions, if you do not use the material, the service life of the coating is significantly reduced: the appearance deteriorates, the joints diverge, the laminate cracks and collapses from the inside.
To properly install laminate flooring, you need. For laminate, it must be flat, with slopes of no more than 4 mm for every 2 meters and with differences in height of no more than 2 mm for every meter of the base. If the floor has significant defects in the form of cracks, irregularities, protruding floor joints, all this must be eliminated. Level the floor by installing concrete screed or base self-leveling coating.
Remember! Laminate laid on a floor with defects begins to creak, quickly becomes unusable, cracks and collapses.
The base floor can be:
- concrete screed;
- old wooden parquet;
- or fiberboard.
For laminate flooring this is not essential, the main thing is that the base is level.
If you decide to install a “Warm Floor” heating system, you should use a special laminate that can withstand bottom heating up to 27-30 degrees. Alternatively, you can use hydraulic system floor heating. Its design features allow it to maintain an acceptable temperature for the laminate flooring and distribute heat evenly over its entire area.
If the operating conditions are acceptable for the use of laminate, you can purchase material, components and installation tools.
Materials for laying laminate flooring
Technologically, installation of laminate is very simple. It is laid on the prepared floor and, in fact, the laminate itself is laid on top using a floating method, i.e. without attaching panels to the base. depend on the type of base floor. For wooden floors, a foamed polyethylene backing is used. Concrete floor In addition, waterproofing is also needed. As a rule, ordinary polyethylene (200 microns) or a special membrane is used. The waterproofing is laid under a layer of foamed polyethylene. Next, we lay the laminate according to standard technology. As you can see, even a beginner can install laminate flooring with his own hands.
To install the coating we will require the following materials:
- laminate;
- substrate (the most economical - foamed polyethylene);
- waterproofing for concrete floors (polyethylene or membrane);
- primer;
- wedges for technological gaps;
- baseboard;
- baseboard fastenings;
- glue for joints;
- wide tape for fastening the backing.
Laminate needs to be purchased with a reserve, so you should first do this.
Firstly, during the installation process there will be scraps that cannot be used.
Secondly, errors may be made in measuring the area and some design features of the room will require more material consumption.
Thirdly, during the installation process, there is a risk of damaging the coating elements. As a rule, lamellas are damaged in places where pipes exit, complex interior design solutions, corners, etc.
Therefore, when purchasing, you should not neglect a certain amount of spare material.
Different manufacturers may have different standards regarding the number and size of lamellas per package. Typically, in a standard package of lamellas there is enough to cover 2 square meters of floor, but there are boxes with material for 1.9 and 2.4 square meters. m.
We talked in more detail about how to correctly calculate the amount of laminate in the article “Calculating the amount of laminate according to a laying scheme with examples.”
The substrate can be from 2 to 5 mm thick. The choice depends on the quality of the base floor. The smaller the differences in height of the base floor, the thinner the underlay can be used. The most popular thickness is 3 mm.
To maintain the temperature gap from the walls of the room, wedges will be required. They can be purchased at the store along with the laminate. They are not expensive, and their purchase will not have a strong impact on the budget. If you want to save money, you can make your own wedges from pieces of the laminate itself, drywall, or wooden pegs. The main thing is that their thickness varies from 5 to 15 mm. This will allow you to use different wedges to smooth out uneven walls and protrusions of the room during installation.
When working with laminate, glue is used in cases where there is no adhesion between the edges of the panels and for additional sealing of joints. The slats themselves should not be glued to the floor.
In order to install the floor, we will need the following tool:
- hammer;
- a wooden block and bracket for lining the final panels (often sold as a set with wedges);
- jigsaw or hacksaw;
- roulette;
- construction knife;
- construction corner;
- pencil.
After you have purchased everything necessary materials and tools, leave the packages of laminate flooring in the room where you plan to re-floor for two to three days. This is necessary so that the material adapts to climatic conditions and acquires maximum strength specifically for the conditions of further use. This step is required when laying laminate flooring.
After the above time has passed, work can begin. Let's look at how to properly install laminate flooring, taking into account all the nuances of the process.
Laminate floor installation process
Before laying slats into a solid floor, the base floor should be thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris. It’s good if you can use a construction or industrial vacuum cleaner. The surface, regardless of the material, should be carefully primed. Laminate flooring should be laid on a wooden floor only after treating the wooden base with an antiseptic.
Laying laminate flooring on a concrete floor involves the use of waterproofing. Lay a film or membrane on a clean and dry surface. Lay strips of material with an overlap of 20 cm and seal the joints with tape. If the base floor is wooden, this step is skipped and we immediately proceed to the next step.
Lay a polyethylene foam backing. You can immediately cover the entire floor with the underlay, or you can lay it down as you install the laminate. The second method will help keep the substrate intact and clean during operation, which is important when manual installation laminated covering. Lay the backing strips end to end and secure these areas with tape to prevent them from unraveling.
Nuance: If the laminate you purchased is already equipped with a soundproofing layer, you can dispense with the polyethylene foam backing. This type of laminate is laid directly on the base floor and a waterproofing coating is used if the floor is concrete.
The most common laminate laying pattern is straight with panels spaced from 20 to 50 percent of the length. The orientation of the slats is usually chosen along the light source. This allows you to visually reduce the joints between the boards and improves the overall perception of the integrity of the coating. For this method, the laminate begins to be laid from the wall or corner closest to the window. If there is more than one window in the room, you can start working from any one.
Structurally, each covering board has special locks for fastening together. To connect the panels, just insert the tenon into the groove. It looks like this: we lay one lamella, place the next one at an angle to it, insert the tongue of the second panel into the groove of the first and lay it until it clicks. It is necessary to fit the panels tightly, but without force, to avoid damage.
Installation of laminate should begin in the corner of the room near the window. Insert pegs between the wall and the first covering boards to create a temperature gap. Lay solid strips of laminate in a row to the end of the room, remembering to carefully connect them along the short side of the slats. Cut the last lamella taking into account the temperature gap.
The second row should begin with the piece left over from the previous row. If it is shorter than 30 cm, half of the new board should be cut off to maintain the spread and even pattern of the coating.
We lay the laminate boards of the second row without locking the lock with the previous row. First, you should dock all the panels of the row together. Then you need to lift the entire row, insert it into the lock all the way and, lowering it, click the locks. If in some places the two rows are not secured tightly, you need to attach a building block to the outer end of the laminate board and gently tap it (the block) with a hammer so that the locks are firmly engaged and the gap between the rows disappears.
By analogy, the entire floor is assembled.
In each row, the last board will protrude beyond the dimensions of the previous row. To trim it correctly, proceed as follows:
- Turn the laminate panel from right to left (not upside down);
- We rest it against the wall with a peg attached and place it on top of the last laid panel of the assembled row;
- On the top side, use a pencil to mark a line for cutting along the border of the bottom panel;
- Using a jigsaw or hacksaw, cut off a fragment of the board according to the markings;
- We turn the panel back over and mount it to the last panel of the row.
In places where there are bends and communications exit, you need to cut the appropriate holes according to size, having previously made markings.
Laying laminate diagonally
An alternative to simple straight laying is the diagonal pattern. Laying laminate diagonally creates the effect visual increase space. This trick will allow you to use unlimited amount design solutions in the interior. The disadvantage of this method is considered to be the high consumption of material - 8-10% more than with the standard direct flooring scheme.
All stages of floor preparation and the technique of laying the underlay are similar to the direct laying of laminate slabs, but the diagonal laying technology has its own characteristics.
Choose a corner near the window. It is better to start from the side where there are pipes or difficult areas of the interior. This will make it easier for us to cut and install the laminate panels. We extend the fishing line from this corner at an angle of 45 degrees to the opposite wall of the room. During the installation of the lamellas, this fishing line will serve as a guide for you.
We cut the first laminate panel at an angle of 45 degrees and mount it with the cut side to the wall, not forgetting to place wedges.
The diagonal laying angle can be made 35-40 degrees. But we strongly do not recommend making it less than 30 degrees, since the surface will not look beautiful - it creates visual effect crooked floor.
Subsequent rows are laid on the basis that the joints of the panels of the new row will be located near the center or at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edge of the previous row. The assembled laminate strips are laid with the cut edges facing the wall. We lay the entire floor area in this way, using the fishing line and the joints of adjacent rows of laminate as a guide. The technology for collecting rows and connecting them is similar to that described above for direct laying.
Advice! First, lay out whole boards in a row, and then fill in the areas near the walls using the remnants from the previously trimmed panels. This will help avoid the effect of a sloping floor and save you material.
The nuances of laying laminate slabs
There are no perfectly level rooms, so in any case you will have to cut out spaces in the lamellas for communications and other design features of the room. To do this, we will use a pencil (for marking), a construction angle, a construction knife and a jigsaw. Let's consider below how to cut and lay laminate boards on ledges and outlets of communication pipes.
Heating pipes
We turn the laminate board lengthwise and, using a corner, mark the locations of the pipes. We make markings directly at the installation site, placing the lamella on its future location. We install a control peg against the wall, put a lamella on the side of the pipes and rest it against the wall. Using a building level in this position, mark the location of the pipe. We get the marking of the place for the cutout for the pipe.
We drill holes according to the markings using a drill with a crown (can be purchased at the same time as the laminate in the store). We make the hole 1-1.5 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe. This is necessary to maintain temperature gaps between the coating and the pipes. Then there may be two options.
First. Using a jigsaw or saw, we cut an approach to the resulting hole from the end of the laminate board. We install the lamella, leaving a gap around the communication, and close this gap with a special plastic ring, which is sold in stores along with the laminate.
Second. Focusing on the middle of the resulting hole, cut off part of the laminate board across. The result will be two parts of one panel. We place one part in the space between the wall and the pipe, and the second - between the pipe and the rest of the floor. To fasten the cut elements together, we use glue. We apply it to the cut ends and press the parts together.
Wall projections
If the room has wall protrusions, you should cut the lamella directly along the protrusion. If there is an obstacle, in the form of a wall covered with plastic or plasterboard panels, columns, places under the radiator, you should install a lamella with a gap right up to the wall base. You can make the job easier by trimming the bottom of the laminate boards. All work is performed with a construction knife or jigsaw.
To properly install the laminate panel, you need to correct its lock. To do this, cut off the protruding edge at the bottom of the end of the board. Since the connection will be deformed, apply glue to the joints of the laminate and press the lamellas together.
Features of laying laminate flooring in a large room
If your room is more than 8 meters in length or width, then you should additionally make an expansion joint. Special profiles are used for this. They are mounted between two loose sections of laminate boards. The top view of the profile is similar to the threshold in the doorway. Laying an expansion joint is necessary to avoid deformation (swelling) of the surface during temperature fluctuations. It reduces the total movement of the laminate floor during temperature changes in the structure of the material and prevents it from floating or cracking.
The final part of installation
Upon completion of installation of the laminated covering over the entire floor and in all difficult places, the protruding edges of the substrate should be carefully trimmed and all wedges removed around the perimeter of the wall. All that remains is to mount the baseboard and thereby close the temperature gap between the laid covering and the wall.
Installing skirting boards on laminate flooring
When installing skirting boards on top of a laminate floor, take into account one design feature: attaching the skirting board itself directly to the laminate and base floor not provided. The plinth is attached only to the wall. To properly attach the selected plinth, you need to adhere to installation instructions included in the kit by the manufacturer.
Skirting boards always follow the contour of the walls of the room. If not smooth walls It is better to use flexible plastic skirting boards. Wooden skirting boards should only be used if the walls are perfectly level and there is no risk of unsightly cracks forming. Besides, wooden skirting boards a very expensive pleasure.
When laying wires along the baseboard, secure them in grooves specially designed for communications. It is unacceptable for the wire to fall behind the baseboard or into the temperature gap of the floor covering.
After installing the baseboards, collect all debris and wipe the floor with a damp (not wet!) cloth. In the future, follow a number of standard rules for caring for laminate flooring, do not allow it to come into contact with copious amounts of water and monitor temperature conditions premises. Then the coating will serve you for a very long time.
Advice! Don't forget to install special soft pads made of felt or coconut coir on the furniture legs so as not to scratch or deform the coating.
As you can see, laying laminate flooring with your own hands is a fairly simple procedure that does not require specific knowledge and skills. Even a beginner can install modern laminate flooring. Therefore, by observing the simple rules above and following our advice, you can cope with this task yourself without any problems.
