Despite huge selection ready-made finishing materials, various homemade products are always relevant, giving an exclusive interior or facade. Various variations of decorative tiles imitating brickwork, which decorate any room, are consistently popular among home craftsmen. In this article we will look at two methods for producing such an imitation - with completely different raw material bases and technologies, they are united by simplicity and accessibility.
- Decorative tiles from DSP for interior and exterior finishing
- Decorative gypsum brick
Decorative tiles from DSP for interior and exterior decoration
This method was shared in a comment by a member of our portal with the nickname Albeduin.
Albeduin FORUMHOUSE Member
Preparation method decorative stone Without pouring each into molds, such tiles can be made in the simplest way. Price Supplies per 1 m² - within 15-30 rubles.
DIY decorative brick.
The price was relevant three years ago, even taking into account the rise in price, it has not fundamentally increased, especially considering that not only raw materials become more expensive over time, but also a square of finished tiles today costs a lot.
Solution
The solution is prepared from sand, cement, water and acrylic primer(concentrate) - it is the primer that provides the solution with homogeneity and elasticity, and the finished tile with increased strength. The ratio of cement and sand is 1/3, primer is about 100 ml per bucket (half a glass, added after mixing the CSP). The solution is made quite liquid, but holds its shape and does not float thanks to the primer.
Equipment
The process of making tiles consists of several stages and does not require expensive equipment or special materials, but you will have to make a couple of special devices yourself.
Frame– base and sides made of plywood, 6-8 mm thick, ends made of wooden blocks. To ensure high adhesion of the tile to future substrates, the back side is also made textured, with characteristic roughness, by laying a backing under the laminate on the plywood. The dimensions of the frame are arbitrary and are tied only to the result - for what purpose and what size the tile is needed.
Masher– assembled from wood and plastic, designed for cutting the total mass in a mold into tiles. Frame made of wooden slats, on which a plastic cutting part protruding to the thickness of the tile is fixed. Topicstarter suggests using school rulers as knives, but there are a lot of variations.
Albeduin simplified the task as much as possible for everyone interested, accompanying the description of the work procedure with graphics.
Making tiles
The form is placed on a table, workbench or any other flat surface and filled with mortar - it must be laid out from one edge and leveled using a rule or spatula, finishing to the end. To give relief to the front tile surface, after leveling the mortar, they pass over it with a trowel “tack-free”, after which they are again leveled along the edges of the frame. The result is voids and grooves, but with a smooth edge.
After about 15-20 minutes, when the solution begins to harden, the tiles themselves are formed with a press; they do not need to be cut through, a seam of half the thickness is sufficient. The frozen tile will easily break into segments, and less effort will be required during molding. After molding, use a spatula to cut the mortar around the perimeter of the frame - to avoid problems with removing the blanks. The pieces are left in the frame for three days; if a large volume is needed, several frames are made and stacked on top of each other when drying.
After three days, they begin to remove the semi-finished products - remove the frame and pull the workpiece towards you by the backing until the edge of the base coincides with the seam, and carefully break it off. Albeduin advises breaking off four tiles in fragments, this will simplify painting, and then breaking into segments. The tiles are stacked and left for another four days to dry.
The tiles are painted with tinting pastes, but they are added not to the paint, but to the acrylic primer. There are no exact proportions, since there are a lot of manufacturers and different concentration. The approximate ratio is one-eighth of a tube per liter of primer, but pay attention to the recommendations for use; do not exceed the maximum proportion. To obtain a shade close to ceramic brick, three colors are used - yellow, red and black. The paste of each color is mixed separately and applied to the tiles with a brush one at a time.
First comes yellow, this will be the base, it will be completely absorbed into the surface. After it dries, red is applied, since the tile has already absorbed the yellow primer, the permeability has deteriorated, and the red will partially spread into the voids. The black color is diluted thinner, and it will practically not be absorbed and will collect in the voids, giving a light tint.
This layer-by-layer coloring not only gives a more natural color, but also protects the tiles from external influences, and it can be used both indoors and on the facade.
If you wish, you can “play” with any shades, adjusting them to the interior.
Broken-shaped tiles are obtained by cutting segments not with a crusher, but with the edge of a spatula; otherwise, the technology is no different. You can grout the seams with the same mortar from which the tiles are made - DSP with primer. Should not be used ready-made compositions for grouting, since they are designed for smooth surface, and they will get tightly packed into the relief of homemade tiles and ruin the whole look. When grouting with a solution, after drying, an indelible coating also forms, but it is easily removed - after the joint has dried, go over it with a brush dipped in primer.
Corner Tiles
Corner tiles are also made using this production technology; it is more complicated, but also quite doable at home. Depending on the desired angle, the frame is assembled not rectangular, but triangular. For those who know how to work with wood and have electric jigsaw, it will not be possible to assemble a form from plywood and timber special labor. Especially having visual material from Albeduin.
But not only the shape is different, there are also nuances in the manufacturing process.
The substrate is not only placed separately in each cell, but is also positioned so that the grooves on its surface run horizontally. This is done to hold the solution on an inclined base.
The solution is made thicker than for flat tiles and with a double dose of primer, since it should be more elastic, not rise beyond the rule and not fall out of the cells. With a thick mortar, you won’t be able to get the texture with slaps; the relief is pressed arbitrarily with the tip of a trowel or spatula.
Removal - as in the first option, the blanks are pulled out of the mold after three days, carefully prying them off together with the substrate, but for drying they are not stacked, but placed on an edge and the substrate is torn off. If it does not come off (due to an increase in the amount of primer in the solution), leave it for another couple of days.
Division - break the tiles into segments when they lie on the edge, with a pulling movement (you cannot pull) by the short side (up). To simplify breaking, even during the molding process, through notches are made along the ribs, and not just trimming along the perimeter of a large segment.
About such strength facade tiles best told by the fact that on the plinth own home Topixarter, she has been feeling great for seven years now. And on the wall in the unheated utility room, nothing happened to it for several years.
Decorative gypsum brick
And for making imitation brickwork method from a portal member with a nickname Vodnik-k2 even simple devices not required - gypsum “bricks” are made directly on the walls.
Vodnik-k2 Member of FORUMHOUSE
I would like to present to your attention gypsum plaster for antique brickwork with my own hands. Choosing decorative finishing, suitable for the coffered ceiling made in the hallway, we settled on old brickwork. But we decided not to use it ready materials, and make brick plaster.
Vodnik-k2 offers its own solution to the problem, embodied in the corridor - gypsum plaster under antique brickwork, the cost of which is about 70 rubles per m² (the price of plaster, pigment and protective coating).
Although the technology itself is absolutely simple, the monotony of the process is somewhat annoying for “the best thing for knitting lovers.”
DIY gypsum brick. Preparation
Prime the walls, beat off (using chalk strings or draw according to the rule) boundaries on them, observing the dimensions of a real brick (every second row is enough). Make a stencil: four bricks, you can cut it out of 5 mm plexiglass (plexiglass).
Preparation of the mixture - dry bag gypsum plaster(25 kg), dry pigments: ocher (1 l), red (0.5), brown (0.6). All dry components are thoroughly mixed in a large container (for convenience), and the gypsum base is poured out first. The easiest way to measure pigment is with a measuring cup (kitchen utensil). Mix the mixture with water (you can add a little primer, the composition will be more elastic) until the consistency of sculptural clay (thick, but easy to mold). The resulting effect depends on the consistency; the thick solution is under old brick, thinner - under new brick.
Application
The stencil is applied to the wall and the solution is applied, it does not matter what tool is used for installation, even with your hands, if it is more convenient, the main thing is to rub it in properly. The excess is cut off with a spatula, and since the mixture is relatively sticky, it pulls behind the tool to be torn off, resulting in a characteristic relief ceramic bricks. Before removing the stencil, the boundaries of the “masonry” are cut with an awl (spatula, knife) so that the edges do not lift up. After removing the stencil, the surface of the tiles is slightly smoothed with the flat part of the spatula. The process of making decorative bricks is repeated over the entire surface reserved for imitation.
For sealing seams Vodnik-k2 I used homemade grout from a mixture of gypsum mounting adhesive and dry sand (fraction 0.75), taken in equal parts and sealed with a primer. I squeezed the mixture out of the bag (if you don’t mind, a large culinary syringe will do), and, if necessary, trimmed it with a spatula and brush.
After the plaster has completely dried, the walls are covered with protective and decorative compounds. Which one depends on the desired effect. The topic starter was coated with butediene styrene latex diluted 1/6 with water. You can apply the product with a brush, roller or garden sprayer. If the coverage area is small, a nozzle on plastic bottle. Latex increases the adhesion of plaster to the wall and evens out its permeability. To make the plaster moisture-resistant and provide the possibility of wet maintenance, it is coated with a water-repellent agent after latex. You should not overuse latex impregnation - one layer allows you to decorate the product, gives a pleasant, silky shine, after two there will be a gloss, which will not add to the appearance of the brick.
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Facade cladding with tiles successfully competes with painting, so the demand for durable, aesthetic facade tiles is great. Based on demand, manufacturers offer different kinds high-quality cladding, differing in material, format and color, but the material you like is not always affordable. In this situation, it is possible to reduce the cost of finishing the facade by making facade tiles with your own hands.
You don't need large rooms to make tiles
Selecting molds for casting tiles
In an enterprise environment, façade tiles are produced using methods of which only one is suitable for home use – vibration casting. It should be taken into account that the prices for high-quality molds are quite high, the turnover of molds for casting facade tiles is up to 1500 cycles, so buying them for the production of 5-10 square meters finishing doesn't make sense. But, if the amount of cladding work is significant, the cost of purchasing molds or making them yourself from polymer materials will provide significant savings Money.
Use when casting primitive homemade forms made from scrap materials, although it is a less expensive option for performing the work, does not guarantee the aesthetics of the finish.
Silicone molds can withstand a huge number of castings
Molds for casting tiles are divided into 3 types based on the material used:
- silicone;
- plastic;
- polyurethane.
Of the listed types, polyurethane molds are suitable for making facade tiles at home, since silicone molds are fragile, and products from plastic molds due to the glossy surface they do not resemble natural stone.
The process of manufacturing facade tiles using the vibration casting method consists of the following stages:
- Making molds.
- Preparation of the solution.
- Pouring the solution into molds.
- Removing products.
Let's take a closer look at these stages.
Making a mold for tiles from wood is the easiest way
Manufacturing of polyurethane molds for facade tiles
First of all, you need to decide what kind of tile the facade will be finished with, think about its size, format and configuration of the front surface. Rational decision there will be a temporary loan from a professional workshop of several samples of products from natural stone, which it was decided to imitate. These samples will be used as templates when making molds with your own hands.
Molds for making polyurethane tiles
Material for making molds
To make the molds themselves, you need to purchase a two-component polyurethane casting compound, for example, Nomakon-TM KPTD-1, Formosil or Poly. These compositions, prepared in the required proportions with a hardener and poured into the formwork, turn into a durable elastic product that is resistant to mechanical damage, vibration, chemicals, low temperatures and humidity.
Production of formwork for the form and installation of the matrix
As a base for the formwork, use a piece of plexiglass slightly larger than more area stone and place the sample on it face up. The excess of the stone above the base level is measured and the outline of the future formwork is drawn around the sample at a distance of 2-3 cm with a marker.
The stone is removed from the base and a rectangular formwork made by hand from the same plexiglass is attached to the plexiglass along the applied contour using silicone sealant “For aquariums”. The height of the formwork should be 1.5-2 cm greater than the height of the sample. Then the sample is set in place, the joint between the stone and the base is covered with the same silicone and the product is allowed to dry for a day.
Mold for pouring a fence slab
If the sample material has high porosity, then its surface is covered with thin layer a solution of paraffin in kerosene or white spirit in a ratio of 1:2, which will act as an anti-adhesive separator and facilitate the removal of the matrix from the hardened polyurethane mass. The separator needs an hour to dry.
Preparing the filling solution
After the glue has dried, begin preparing the polyurethane mass for pouring.
The required proportions are poured into two separate dry and clean containers. required quantities polymer and hardener. Then pour them into a third dry and clean container and mix thoroughly with your hands, touching the walls of the container.
When working with the components of the compound, you should use protective clothing, gloves and goggles, avoiding direct contact of the polymer with the body. If the solution gets on your skin, wash it off immediately running water With detergent!
Before filling the formwork with the compound, you need to dry brush the matrix with a thin layer of polyurethane to reduce the number of air bubbles that form on the surface of the sample when adding the bulk of the mixture.
One of the corners of the base is raised, and the filling of the formwork with polymer begins from the lower corner, while simultaneously introducing the composition and lowering the raised corner. When the base is in a horizontal position, the thickness of the polyurethane layer above the top point of the matrix should be 2-3 cm.
The compound, depending on the type, hardens in about a day, after which the matrix is removed.
Matrix extraction
A day after pouring, the formwork is dismantled, cutting stationery knife silicone bonding areas. The matrix in polyurethane is turned over with its back side up and the degree of curing of the polymer is assessed, since final hardening may take up to three days. If the compound has not completely hardened, the stone is left in it until the solution is completely set.
Several dies can be made at the same time to produce tiles of different shapes
The frozen polyurethane mold is carefully separated from the surface of the matrix with your own hands, trying not to damage the surface texture, which follows the structure of the stone.
To ensure that the facade decoration is not primitive or monotonous, it is necessary to make at least 5 forms using different matrices.
Preparation of mortar for molding tiles
There are many recipes for preparing mortar, but cement-based compositions are widely used. To produce the main component for pouring into molds, the following technology can be used:
2 parts of sand are mixed with one part of water for 1-2 minutes, after which 4 parts of cement and 2 parts of water are added and mixed for 2-3 minutes. Then 8 parts of sand and one part of water are gradually added to the solution and mixed, after which dye is added to the mixture in an amount of no more than 4-5% of the total volume of the batch. Using white M500 cement instead of the usual gray Portland cement will result in tiles with richer tones.
When making facade tiles with your own hands, they also use fillers made from fine chips of natural stone (granite, marble, limestone), which increase the strength characteristics of the products and the similarity with natural stone finishing. To do this, out of 8 parts of sand, when mixing, 4 parts are replaced with crumbs.
Molding of facade tiles
The forms are placed on a working vibrating table and filled with the finished solution using a trowel - a narrow mason's trowel. If the solution does not include natural crumb fillers and dye, then pigment is first added to the molds with a layer of 1-1.5 cm, after which they are gradually filled flush with the edges with the main composition. This allows you to get a tile with a front surface uniformly painted to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.
Considering the high cost of a vibrating table and the laboriousness of making it yourself, when molding tiles you can do without it. If you install a sheet of steel or chipboard on two supports ( particle board), and place polyurethane forms on it, then compaction of the mixture in the forms can be done by tapping the sheet from below with a hammer.
After compacting the mold, being careful not to deform it, transfer it to a horizontal surface for two days. During this time, the products are not moved or touched.
Exposure of molds and products to direct sunlight and high temperatures is unacceptable, as this reduces the strength of the tiles and the turnover of polyurethane molds.
Removing products from molds
To properly remove the cliche with the product, place it in a container with water at a temperature of 40-60 degrees for several minutes to increase the elasticity of the polymer. The tiles are removed by hand, tapping the polyurethane with a rubber hammer, and until completely cured, they are laid in one layer in a cool place for 7-10 days.
Conclusion
For significant volumes finishing works this technology provides significant savings in money, and the quality of hand-made facing material, although inferior to industrial designs, is quite high.
A tiled house has several advantages - it is beautiful and durable. You can buy exclusive material at individual order or buy the product you like in the store, or you can make it yourself and decorate the walls yourself. Making facade tile shapes with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. This article talks about the most reliable and uncomplicated methods for producing tile material at home.
Many people doubt whether this entire process can be carried out without special equipment and how durable the material will be. Therefore, before you start making facing products yourself, you need to study what tiles are and how they are made in production.
There are several main types of tiles based on the main component:
- concrete - made of cement, sand and plasticizers;
- ceramic - made from special grades of clay and fired in ovens at high temperatures;
- clinker - high-quality types of clay are pressed under high pressure and are fired at a temperature of about 1200 degrees;
- porcelain stoneware - made like clinker, but granite chips are added to the composition;
- terracotta - made from porous clay of the same name.
Brick elements look natural and neat
Each type corresponds to the manufacturing method and the main filler, which gives the material aesthetics and protective properties. Tile products can be divided according to shape:
- finishing facade stone;
- clinker brick;
- imitation of finishing or masonry brick;
- flat tile rectangular shape with a smooth, rough, matte or glossy surface.
Manufacturing processes can be: firing or dry pressing. Conventional ceramics go the following way:
- Extraction of raw materials in quarries.
- Processing of material, its cleaning.
- Formation;
- Drying;
- Burning.
The production of concrete tiles is quite accessible to everyone
For concrete products and for many types of artificial stones, the process is limited to vibration casting and drying.
Let's compare what equipment is used in production and what can be used to replace it at home.
- Crushing and extruding machine can be replaced ready-made mixture from a hardware store.
- A concrete mixer will completely replace a mini concrete mixer or a bucket and a drill with an attachment.
- A vibratory casting press will replace a vibrating table.
- You can make press molds yourself or purchase them in a store.
As you can see, the whole process is easy to repeat at home. Some will ask why this is needed, because the required material can be bought for a suitable amount. But here's an example: you came up with a design, and suitable stone not on sale, or available, but the color is not suitable. And it may also be too expensive. In the end, this type of cladding may not exist at all. That's when they come to the rescue own hands and useful tips.
For wood it is important to choose a relief textured pattern
Mold making
Today it is quite possible to purchase ready-made forms. They come in all types of tiles; if you look hard enough, you’ll be lucky enough to buy exactly what you need. The most important thing is not to purchase cheap plastic matrices. Usually they are enough for no more than one application of the solution, after which the plastic becomes unusable. As already noted, a suitable form may not be on sale, then you will inevitably have to make it yourself. Whatever material you choose for the matrix, you can take an artificial analogue, tile or natural stone as a basis. If you choose the second option, then buy several different samples, remember that nothing is the same in nature. The basis may be wooden beam, log The main thing is to choose a beautiful wood texture. Let's understand the technology of the form.
Let us immediately note that the base can be made for one tile or directly for a group of stones. It is more profitable to do the second one, since the output is several finished products at once, and the speed of work, accordingly, increases. Whatever material you use, you will need formwork. Buy ready-made or make it yourself.
Silicone sealant is cheaper to choose in large packaging
Silicone
Silicone is sold in different packaging. It’s better for you to look in buckets, since in tubes you will overpay for packaging, but you need a lot of it.
Now we lubricate the bottom and walls of the formwork with a special lubricant, and lay tiles or stones on the bottom. The sources also need to be lubricated, since they will have to be freed from silicone.
Important! If gypsum stone or tiles are used as the starting material, then they must be covered with several layers of varnish, only then coated.
The form is filled to the brim
Prepare a soap solution for brushes and spatula. Apply silicone and smooth it with a brush, constantly pressing. This way you will avoid bubbles. Now it is advisable to compact the silicone and level it with a soap spatula. Now the mold must be left until the silicone hardens.
The polymerization process takes a long time. The standard rate is 2mm per day. The thicker the future workpiece, the more time it will take. Don’t rush to pull out the matrix; the stronger it is, the longer it can be used. A poorly polymerized form can be used once or twice. Standard Properties silicone sealant, which should be taken into account when working:
- tensile strength - 01 MPa;
- density - 1200 kg/m3;
- viability - 8 hours;
- durability - 20 years.
Base for stone tiles
After complete hardening, the material is removed, the matrix is washed with soap and can be used.
Compound molding dies
There are special compositions for casting molds. They can be purchased at construction stores or creative departments. There is no need to chase imported compounds; our compounds are of good quality and reasonable cost.
The example shown in the photo has two components. Silagerm -5035 has a tensile strength of about 4 MPa, shrinkage of no more than 1%, and a complete hardening time of 24 hours.
The quality of the composition is better, and accordingly the forms made from it are used longer.
Important! Before pouring plaster or cement, lubricate the mold special composition- Tiprom, then it will last even longer.
Domestic polyurethane compound
Professional production of tile material at home
Do-it-yourself tiles are made using gypsum or cement. Gypsum cladding is usually used indoors, but if its surface is impregnated with hydrophobic substances, it can be used on building facades in dry climates. Nevertheless, many are interested in gypsum products, since they are easier to give the required color, they have better adhesion and are much lighter than cement elements.
Production of gypsum-based facing elements
To work you will need the following tools and materials:
- Plaster, preferably white.
- River purified sand.
- Lemon powder.
- Necessary dyes.
- PVA glue.
- Drill with mixing attachment.
- Matrices for shaping.
- Plastic bucket for solution.
- Brushes and spatula.
Gypsum also comes in different forms.
Before work, prepare a place to dry the material. It must be perfectly even so that the products are of the same thickness. Let's look at the whole process step by step.
Finished elements can be painted white
Video instructions for making tile elements from gypsum mortar
We invite you to watch a detailed video tutorial. After watching it, you will learn how to cast beautiful finish for your home without difficulty.
Cement paste tiles
Cement or concrete tiles and artificial stones are much more in demand, as they can be used on any facades, garden paths and in other forms landscape design. Nothing will happen to them in any weather. This tile is resistant to weathering, chemical and biological influences. It is durable and wear-resistant. Such products can be formed from Portland cement, river sand and water. PVA glue is added as a plasticizer. The following is all familiar:
- After the solution has set a little, a mesh is drawn on it to improve adhesive properties.
- The tile must dry. Then it is carefully removed from the molds and left to dry completely for several weeks. It is then stacked on pallets and stored in a dry, dark place.
Storage of finished products
To avoid mistakes during installation, we will give some recommendations that will help make the cladding process better and faster.
Seamless installation method
Making cladding yourself is a fascinating process; in addition, it is good for the wallet and will satisfy any needs and imagination. Don't rush to buy ready-made finishing material, perhaps you will get exclusive forms of facade tiles as in the photo, and even with your own hands.
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It includes:
- cement;
- sand;
The tiles are attached to concrete surfaces or with dowel nails. Tiles are attached to log and plank walls and frames, as well as those made of timber, using self-tapping wood screws.
If you plan to install the tiles yourself, it is best to choose this method of cladding. Firstly, such cladding can imitate Various types stone and brickwork. However, unlike concrete facade tiles, they will be significantly cheaper, you can fix them quickly and easily, and the coating will look no worse.
- plain;
- iridescent;
Components for the production of concrete tiles
It includes:
- cement;
- sand;
- mineral powder - a cement substitute made from ash, ground slag, stone crushing waste, etc., introduced into concrete in a volume of 5-20% to give the concrete special properties (heat resistance, different colors and etc.);
- plasticizing additives - used to increase the mobility of the concrete mixture;
- stabilizing additives - to prevent separation of the concrete mixture;
- water-retaining additives - to reduce water separation.
Manufacturing technology for concrete façade tiles
The main method for producing facade concrete tiles with low porosity is vibration casting. Cooked concrete mixture placed in plastic molds mounted on a vibrating table and completely compacted under the influence of high frequency vibration. Then the plastic forms are transferred to racks and covered plastic film to prevent moisture loss and are kept for a day. Further ready tiles removed from plastic molds and transported to the warehouse.
Using this technology, it is possible to obtain tiles with both matte and glossy surfaces, without pores or other defects. The use of high-quality coloring pigments makes it possible to obtain tiles painted in rich colors that do not lose their brightness for many years. You can read the material about.
Advantages and disadvantages of concrete facade tiles
All building materials have both advantages and disadvantages.
The advantages of concrete tiles include:
- the mass of facade tiles is relatively light, which not only reduces the load on the structure of the structure, but also makes it possible to implement exterior finishing on your own;
- it is similar to stone, not only visually, but the natural aging process of these materials is also practically indistinguishable in appearance;
- Since the surface of the tile is hard, it can withstand impact well atmospheric precipitation and resistant to mechanical damage, i.e. will serve for a long time if installed correctly and timely maintenance;
- to fasten concrete tiles, you do not need a special spacer layer; they can be mounted on walls made of various materials, adhere well to adhesives.
- concrete facade tiles are cut with a simple chisel (cutter), although less labor costs and best result cutting gives circular saw.
However, concrete tiles also have disadvantages:
- It is better not to use this tile in cold climates, since not all manufacturers guarantee the stability of its properties in the presence of freeze/thaw cycles;
- sometimes, even with normal production process, the edge of the concrete tile turns out to be uneven or an unnecessary edge is formed on its edges. And although they can be easily removed with a circular saw or cutter, installation labor costs increase.
Dry method of installing concrete facade tiles
Important! The dry method is intended for tiling brick, concrete and wooden surfaces without using any adhesives or solutions. Among other things, the work described can be done at any time of the year.
The tiles are attached to concrete or brick facades dowel-nails. Tiles are attached to log and plank walls and frames, as well as those made of timber, using self-tapping wood screws.
If you plan to install the tiles yourself, it is best to choose this method of cladding. Firstly, such cladding can imitate various types of stone and brickwork. However, unlike facing bricks Concrete facade tiles will be significantly cheaper, you can fix them quickly and easily, and the coating will look no worse.
Painting of façade concrete tiles for dry laying is carried out during their manufacture. In this case, the product is painted completely throughout its volume, and not just on the outer surfaces. Therefore, fading of colored concrete tiles under the influence of ultraviolet radiation is excluded.
These tiles can have almost any color:
- plain;
- iridescent;
- imitating the surface of granite, marble, malachite, amber, etc.
Properties of facade tiles (video)
Wet method of installing concrete facade tiles
For achievement good quality cladding façade walls it is necessary that they are even. If there are irregularities, it is recommended to plaster the walls.
The installation process includes the following steps:
- Before installing the tiles, the surfaces of the facade walls and the back sides of the tiles should be moistened with water using a paint brush.
- The façade should be faced starting from the plinth, which is the base of the facade walls of the house and creates a transition to the areas of the earth’s surface adjacent to the house - sidewalk, driveway, lawn. It is better to make the color of the plinth cladding darker than that of the wall cladding, then it will look more monumental. In order to maintain the same level along the entire perimeter of the house when covering the base, a starting strip is nailed at the bottom of the base, which is strictly set according to the level (preferably a laser level). It is on the starting bar that the first row of tiles is laid out. Install the tiles starting from the corners from bottom to top.
- To apply a 0.5 cm layer of tile adhesive to the surface of the walls, use a smooth spatula. Next, level the glue with a notched trowel with teeth 4–6 mm high.
- A 0.4–0.6 cm layer of adhesive is applied to the back of the tiles with a notched trowel.
- Next, using gentle movements and turns, the tiles are pressed against the wall surface until the glue comes out at the joints between the tiles.
Correct and professional execution of wall cladding will significantly extend the life of the house façade. Therefore, before you start installing facade tiles, study the technology of this work, or better yet, watch it with your own eyes or at least on a video on the Internet.
Building or renovating a house is a rather exhausting process in every sense, but at the same time instructive and exciting. When the construction is already coming to an end, one of last stages is laying facade tiles. This finishing touch not only aesthetically transforms appearance buildings, but also provides insulation of facades, while extending their service life.
Nowadays, finishing facades with tiles is a fairly popular activity, making it difficult for beginners in this matter to make a choice or carry out the process itself. We’ll figure out what laying is, what types of tiles there are, and also look at the features of the work and give some recommendations and advice, supporting the material covered with instructive videos.
The concept of facade tiles and factors influencing its price
Facade tiles are construction material, thanks to which the building acquires an attractive and individual appearance, but at the same time it an indispensable tool insulation of the house from external destructive atmospheric phenomena and heat insulation.
IN general concept, facade tiles come from natural and artificial stone. If in the first case the entire installation will require considerable costs, but this will be compensated by the resulting beauty and practicality, then in the second case it will be good analogue natural material at a more attractive price.
The cost of this material depends on the following factors:
- raw materials for production;
- manufacturing technology;
- sizes and shapes;
- color and type of decor;
- manufacturer.
In order to save money, many people resort to making such tiles with their own hands. The desired results can be achieved if you are familiar with the manufacturing process itself, which is presented in video 1. The video will help you not only learn how to make it yourself, but also understand the stages of the procedure.
Types: pros and cons
Let's consider the classification of facade tiles, noting the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
The production of these facade tiles occurs by mixing several types of clay, dyes, sand, feldspar and various mineral additives, after which the product is fired at temperatures up to 1300°C. Variety: plain, interspersed with imitation of natural stone. Pros: water resistance, frost resistance, wear resistance, and it is also environmentally friendly pure material different sizes. Cons: installation becomes more complicated due to the heavy weight of the material.
Concrete
Manufactured from Portland cement, sand, lightweight filler and additives that give it strength and frost resistance. Vibratory pressing produces façade tiles, which are subsequently dried in ovens and covered with sealants. Pros: variety of surface textures, wide palette of colors, light weight, low cost and easy installation. Cons: lower level of frost resistance compared to other types, big sizes, difficulty of care.
Terracotta
It is made from kaolin clay at a temperature of 1000°C and has a porous structure. Subtypes: smooth, coarse-grained and polished; black, dark brown and light brown. Pros: no dyes, imitation natural stone, easy installation due to low weight, temperature resistant, does not fade under exposure sun rays, provides climate control to the premises, does not require maintenance. Cons: mechanical stability is lower compared to other types.
Clinker
It is made from shale clays at a temperature of 1300°C. The variety of the material is ensured by adding dyes during the production process. Externally similar to brick. Pros: contains no calcium carbonate and salts, low level of water absorption, long term operation, frost resistance, variety of colors and textures, does not fade in the sun, is resistant to mold and mildew, does not require special care. Cons: high price.
Advantages and disadvantages of installation
Before you start laying facade tiles, you are advised to familiarize yourself with a number of advantages and disadvantages of this process.
Advantages that laying gives to the building:
- maintainability;
- resistance to mechanical damage;
- resistance to external atmospheric phenomena;
- insulation of facades;
- variety of appearance;
- possible reuse.
Flaws:
- the need to prepare the walls of the building;
- the need for mesh reinforcement;
- high price of work and material;
- physical wear and tear of the glue used;
- labor intensity.
Nuances of the facade finishing process
The process of cladding a building is far from an easy task, requiring certain skills and knowledge. The technology for laying facade tiles can be simplified by taking into account some nuances, which allows you to achieve the desired result.
Experts recommend that tiles be laid in the warm season, and the temperature should, if possible, not go beyond 5-25°C. When increasing the specified temperature limit, it is necessary that warm tiles the back side was a little damp. When working in bad weather, discoloration may occur.
Before laying building materials, the walls need to be prepared, in particular leveled, which means plastering. For this procedure, professionals advise using a reinforcing mesh.
In order to achieve the planned results, we suggest you watch the following video 2. This material will briefly and clearly outline the essence of the work of cladding using the example of a separate section. The video colorfully describes the entire procedure.
Do-it-yourself exterior finishing of the walls of a house can be done using different installation techniques. If specialists carry out the work, the price of the work will be quite high, so if you try, you can create an individual facade yourself, taking into account your requirements. A little desire and hard work - and the result will definitely please you. The video will also show us how houses can be transformed using tiles.
