How to make your own sharpening machine. Tabletop sharpening machine. Sharpening knives for disc knives

Every housewife sooner or later begins to get dull knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or cuts meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. It can fall off the product being cut at any time and cause injury. Therefore, the tool should be periodically sharpened using special device for sharpening knives.

A wide range of such sharpening devices are offered in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of sharpening stones, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - necessary conditions

For efficient and long-term use of the knife the most important factor when sharpening it is angle between blade edges. During the sharpening process, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

Each blade has its own optimal angle:

for a razor and scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10–15 degrees;
knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15–20 degrees;
multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
hunting and camping knives - at an angle of 25–30 degrees;
knives for cutting hard materials - 30–40 degrees.

Without a special tool, sharpen the blade under the right angle difficult. While holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to ensure required tilt angle cutting tool. To facilitate this process there are special devices, which you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the manufacturing itself does not take much time.

There are many types of knife sharpeners, from which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

a block of abrasive material;
stop for attaching the knife.

You can use ready-made special stones as a bar or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

There are several types of stones on sale:

Water tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.

Oil The structure and shape of the stone resembles that of water, but its surface is the most oily.

Natural instruments are made from natural stones, which undergo industrial processing.

Artificial stones are made from non-natural components.

Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working with them is not very convenient.

For self-made abrasive stone, you can use small glass plates rectangular shape and a thickness of 4–5 millimeters. You need to stick different grain sizes onto the surface of the plates using double-sided tape. sandpaper. The cost of such bars will be quite small, and the sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass bar, you should be very careful carefully tighten the nuts, otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used when using it, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, you should avoid rapid movements, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to the loss of the properties of the blade.

Device for sharpening from wooden blocks

It is enough to simply make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

For greater stability of the sharpening device to its lower surface, it is recommended attach a piece of rubber.

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting corners

The basis for this device is a Lansky sharpener, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
standard aluminum corners;
metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
set of nuts and bolts;
grinder with a vice or file;
needle file

Instead of a sharpening machine, you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding off sharp corners and cleaning the metal cutting areas.

Stages of making a sharpener:

According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
The holes are drilled and threaded.
Using a file, all sharp corners and edges are rounded. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
The hole for the spoke support is expanded using a needle file.
The holes for the studs are threaded.
The rods are inserted into the outer holes and secured with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
An M8 bolt is screwed into the wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as support post.
Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is threaded, which is fixed with the help of nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, you can adjust the sharpening angle.
A thin metal rod in the shape of the letter L, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut are used to assemble a device that will hold the sharpening stone. The outermost holder must have a through hole for the knitting needle.

This knife sharpening device has a fairly wide range of pressing angle degrees and is most convenient to use.

Massive sharpener with stand

With your own hands, you can imitate a knife sharpening device from Apex, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet. Such a knife is presented in the form of a stand, on which a platform is installed at an angle, and on the side there is a support for the end of the nozzle in the form of a rod. This is very convenient device, with which you can sharpen any kind of very high quality cutting tools.

Required materials and tools:

Stages of work:

The sharpening angle on such a device adjustable using bar and thumb, which fixes the part at the desired height.

Each of the described devices has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing the appropriate option, you need to proceed from your needs and skills in such work that you will need to do with your own hands.

Almost everyone home handyman cutting tools are available. Over time, the cutting edges lose their former sharpness, and working with such a product becomes unbearable. There are two options for solving this problem: have the tool sharpened and pay a lot of money, or assemble a knife sharpening device yourself and sharpen the products yourself.

Causes of blade dulling

The dulling of the blade can be explained as follows. During cutting, the blade is exposed to the smallest abrasive particles, be it fruits or vegetables. Cutting edge The blade gradually wears off and the knife becomes dull. Another reason is to hold the blade when cutting at a certain angle.

Some areas of the blade are subject to increased stress and increased wear.

There are types of knives that are impossible to sharpen yourself due to the textured blades. Also, knives made from ceramics cannot be sharpened. But, as a rule, the quality of the steel in such products is high, and they rarely become dull. There are a variety of knives of low quality, and they have to be sharpened very often. As practice shows, if the steel is of low quality, then sharpening will solve the problem for a while, and then the blade will become dull again.

To sharpen knives you will need abrasive wheels. If it is not possible to purchase ready-made circles, you can make them yourself using wooden blocks and sandpaper of different grain sizes.

The standard sharpening angle is 20 - 30 degrees. It is quite difficult to maintain the angle during sharpening, and therefore it is necessary to make a simple knife sharpener, in which it is not necessary to maintain the optimal angle. The basic rule in this process is maintaining a precisely specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.

Basic mistakes

As it may seem at first glance, sharpening is simple, but if you delve into the process itself, you will notice quite a large number various nuances. Most people make simple mistakes when sharpening knives, which leads to uneven sharpening or damage to the knife. Common Mistakes when sharpening:

The cutting edge was not sharpened. As a result, small burrs form on the sides, which temporarily give sharpness to the blade, and after working with the knife for a short time, the blade again becomes dull. To prevent this problem, you should carefully sharpen both edges, and then, as you sharpen, use sandpaper or a wheel of different grits.
Presence of paint, oil, dirt on the tip. The bottom line is that during turning, fat, dirt, oil and other components mix with grinding abrasives and lead to scratches and microchips of the blade. After such sharpening, the blade quickly becomes dull.
Pressure plays an important role. You need to remember one simple rule: sharpness does not depend on the force used, but on the duration of sharpening. Excessively strong pressure leads to chipping of microparticles from the blade and poor sharpening.
Incorrect angle selection. The angle may vary depending on the grade of steel and the purpose of the tool. For home kitchen knives it is 20 - 25 degrees. For other types of blades that will have to withstand heavy loads and work with hard materials, the angle will be 40 degrees.

By following simple but at the same time appropriate rules for sharpening, you can not only save time, but also not damage the product.

Sharpener "Domik"

A good tool for sharpening knives. Despite simple design, the sharpener does its job well. This design consists of a rectangular block, the upper edge of which is made in the form gable roof. The angle of inclination of one face is 20 - 25 degrees, which is optimal. The product must be installed with a blade close to one of the roof ridges, then take abrasive wheel or a block of sandpaper and move along a horizontal line. This ensures a constant angle of inclination, which leads to uniform sharpening of the blade.

There are also complex designs homemade sharpening machine. For manufacturing you will need the following materials:

A piece of board measuring 500x150x20 mm.
A metal pin with a thread that will serve as a guide for the bar.
M8 bolts and nuts and wood screws.
Clamp nuts or wing nuts.
Ordinary PCB or plexiglass, which will serve as a substrate for the knife and a kind of movable frame.
To attach the knife, use a neodymium magnet. The usual one will not work, since its downforce is quite low.

The board must be cleaned, processed, and then made into a rectangle. Another board should be made rectangular in shape, which will serve as a stand or support. Its height should be such that the slope of the main board is 20 degrees. You can fasten them together with wood screws. Then attach the resulting structure to the workbench or cut out a tabletop in advance, to which one of the studs will be attached. After securely attaching the pin to the tabletop, you need to take a 200x100 block and make two holes in it: one for the main pin, on which the movable carriage with the sharpener will be attached, and the other for the pin, which is attached to the tabletop.

Now you can begin assembling the carriage with the sharpener holder. For the pin that will hold the carriage, you need to make two clamps from wood, plexiglass or metal. Drill holes in the clamps, put them on the stud and secure them on both sides with nuts. The carriage will rotate freely along its axis.

The next step is to install a neodymium magnet on a previously prepared plate. It is necessary to make a longitudinal groove in it so that the tripod can be moved up and down. Drill a hole in the middle of the frame and insert a bolt with a nut, which, in turn, will press the plate. You can simply glue a neodymium magnet to the end of the plate to hold the knife.

The homemade device is ready for use. It can be used to sharpen chisels and planes.

It should be noted that sharpening is carried out without water, so the abrasive paper or wheel will wear out greatly, but this option is quite suitable for sharpening knives and tools at home.

Homemade knife

If the farm has sharpening machine, it will make the process easier, but there is one circumstance. When sharpening on a machine, it is almost impossible to apply even pressure on the knife. Therefore, it is possible to make a device for sharpening knives, which will serve as a guide for the blade and ensure uniform pressure. The result is a simple but effective electric sharpener. To make it you will need the following components:

Beam.
Four bolts or four studs with M8 thread.
Four lambs.
Self-tapping screws for wood.

Opposite the electric sharpener, a guide is attached along which the slider will move. The guide itself can be attached to the workbench or a pre-made frame can be made. It must be mobile. To do this, you can cut a longitudinal groove in the frame and secure the tripod with two studs. Then take two bars, drill holes on the sides, insert studs and tighten them with screws on both sides. The next step will be the mount on which the cutting product will rest. This can be done using small pieces of timber, which should be attached to the sides of the moving carriage.

After this you can start sharpening. Set the movable carriage to the desired height and squeeze with lamb. Move the tripod itself to the required distance, securely fasten it and sharpen the product by moving the knife along the side guides.

Sharpener LM

If in the future you plan to do professional sharpening of tools in large quantities, then you can make a sharpener called: Lansky-Metabo. Fixture drawings for sharpening knives with your own hands look like this:

If the product is clamped in the clamps with the root part, the sharpening angle will be greatest. A knife with this angle can be used as a “cleaver” and for processing hard wood. You can also easily sharpen knives using a jointer. Knife clamps can be made from angle iron or wood. The disadvantage of this design is the complexity of assembly and the large number of parts.

If it is not possible to assemble a complex tool for sharpening knives, then you can make do with improvised means and make manual knife sharpeners. A simple sharpener can be made from a corner frame in which a whetstone is mounted.

If you add a sliding carriage to the sharpener, you won’t have to hold the knife at a certain angle, which, in turn, will have a good effect on sharpening the blade. To make a movable carriage you will need a triangular block and a magnet. It is best to use a neodymium magnet, which allows you to attract the knife and fix it securely. If such a magnet is not available, then you can take components from the HDD (hard drive).

Before you give a knife or other product for sharpening, you should familiarize yourself with the material, which will help not only in making a sharpener with your own hands, but also save a certain amount. The main aspect is to gain additional experience, which will be useful in the future.

The introduction of the Edge Pro sharpening machines was, without exaggeration, a revolution. The prices are really high, but no one is stopping you from copying the principle and creating a similar device yourself. We offer design simple machine for sharpening knives, chisels and any other blades that you can make with your own hands.

Machine base

Most parts for a sharpening machine can be made from literally anything, following general principle devices. As an example, let's take laminated or polished box plywood 8-12 mm thick, which was widely used in the manufacture of Soviet radio equipment housings.

The base must be heavy - about 3.5-5 kg - otherwise the machine will be unstable and unsuitable for sharpening heavy chopping tools. Therefore, the inclusion of steel elements in the design is welcome, for example, the base of the case can be “forged” with a 20x20 mm angle.

From plywood you need to cut out two parts in the shape of a rectangular trapezoid with a jigsaw with bases of 170 and 60 mm and a height of 230 mm. When cutting, leave an allowance of 0.5-0.7 mm for processing the ends: they must be straight and exactly match the markings.

The third part is an inclined plane made of plywood boards measuring 230x150 mm. It is installed between the inclined sides of the side walls, while the trapezium of the side walls rests on the rectangular side.

In other words, the base of the machine is a kind of wedge, but the inclined plane should protrude 40 mm from the front. At the ends of the side walls, use a surface planer to mark two lines with an indent of half the thickness of the plywood. Drill three holes in each board to fasten the parts with screws. Transfer the drill bit to the ends of the inclined part and temporarily connect the base parts.

In the back side walls They are connected by a 60x60 mm block, which is attached to the end with two screws on each side. You need to make a 10 mm vertical hole in the block with an indentation of 50 mm from the center, that is, 25 mm from the edge. To be sure of verticality, it is better to drill first thin drill on both sides and then expand. Screw two fittings into the hole from the top and bottom with internal thread M10, and in them - a 10 mm pin with a length of 250 mm. Here you may need to slightly adjust the bottom fitting if its threads do not line up with the stud.

Tool support device

Remove the flat inclined part from the base - it needs to be modified by equipping it with a device for fixing and pressing the tool being processed.

First, set aside 40 mm from the front edge and along this line, use a matching hacksaw to file a groove about 2 mm deep. Using a sectioning knife or a shoemaker's knife, chop off the two top layers of veneer from the end of the board to form a recess into which you can insert a 2 mm steel plate flush with the common plane.

The handrail consists of two steel strips 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. They need to be folded together along the long end with even indentations along the edges and make three through holes by 6 mm. The strips along these holes need to be tightened with bolts, placing the caps on the side of the upper, larger plate. Arc welding bake each cap, welding it to the plate, then remove the beads of metal and grind the plate until a perfectly flat plane is obtained.

Attach the narrower striker plate to the notch on the edge and transfer the holes with a drill, then secure the rest with bolts. It can also be magnetized before installation DC, this will help in sharpening small blades.

Locking mechanism

The second part of the tool rest is the clamping bar. It is also made of two parts:

The upper L-shaped bar is 150x180 mm with a shelf width of about 45-50 mm.
The lower strike plate is rectangular 50x100 mm.

The parts need to be folded in the same way as the parts of the tool rest were folded, placing the counter plate at the far edge of the upper clamping area. We make two holes in the center with a distance of 25 mm from the edges of the small part, and through them we tighten the parts with two 8 mm bolts. They need to be wound in opposite directions, with the head of the upper (near) bolt located on the side clamping bar. The bolt heads are also welded to the plates and pre-ground to obtain neat roundings.

On an inclined board with an indentation of 40 mm from the edge, draw a line with a thickness planer and make one 8 mm hole 25 mm from the top and bottom edges. Connect the edges of the holes with markings and use a jigsaw to make a cut with an allowance. Finish the resulting groove with a file to a width of 8.2-8.5 mm.

Fasten the clamping and strike strips through the groove in the board. Tighten the bolt protruding from above with a nut so that the bar maintains minimal movement, then secure the connection with a second nut. To press or release the strip from below (in the niche of the base), screw a wing nut onto the second bolt.

Adjusting the sharpening angle

Throw a wide washer onto the pin screwed into the base bar and tighten the nut so that the rod does not rotate in the fittings.

The adjusting block must be made from a small block of hard material measuring approximately 20x40x80 mm. Take carbolite, textolite or hardwood.

15 mm from the edge of the block, we drill a 20 mm end on both sides, the hole expands to 9 mm, then we cut a thread inside. A second hole is drilled at a distance of 50 mm from the axis of the hole made, but in the flat part of the part, that is, perpendicular to the previous one. This hole should have a diameter of about 14 mm, in addition, it needs to be flared strongly with a round rasp.

The block is screwed onto a pin, so it is possible to relatively accurately adjust the height of the eye without complex system screw clamps as in the original machine, which in practice is a little more difficult to implement. In order for the block to remain motionless during operation, it must be secured on both sides with M10 wing nuts.

Carriage and replacement bars

For the sharpening carriage, you will need to coaxially weld 30 cm sections of an M10 pin and a smooth, even rod 10 mm thick. You also need two solid blocks measuring approximately 50x80 mm and up to 20 mm thick. A 10 mm hole should be made in each bar in the center and at a distance of 20 mm from the top edge.

First, a wing nut is screwed onto the rod, then a wide washer and two bars, again a washer and a nut. You can clamp rectangular sharpening stones between the whetstones, but it is better to make several replacement sharpening stones.

As a basis for them, take a light aluminum profile with a flat part 40-50 mm wide. This could be a profile rectangular pipe or pieces of old cornice profile.

We sand and degrease the flat part, and “Moment” glue strips of sandpaper of different grain sizes from 400 to 1200 grit onto it. Choose a cloth-based sandpaper, and glue a strip of suede leather onto one of the bars for straightening the blades with abrasive paste.

How to sharpen correctly

For correct sharpening make several templates from plywood with angles of 14-20º for cutting edges and 30-37º for chopping edges, the exact angle depends on the grade of steel. Fix the blade parallel to the edge of the tool rest and press it with a bar. Using the template, adjust the angle between the planes of the sharpening block and the inclined board of the table.

Start sharpening with a large (P400) whetstone if the edge does not have correct angle. Make sure that the descent strip takes the form of a straight strip without bends or waves. Reduce the grit and go along both sides of the blade first with a P800 stone, and then with a P1000 or P1200 stone. When sharpening the blade, apply the whetstone with slight force in both directions.

After sharpening, the blade must be corrected with a “leather” block on which a small amount of GOI pastes. When editing blades, the working movement is directed only towards the edge (towards you), but not against it. And finally, little advice: if you sharpen knives with polished blades and engraving, glue them masking tape so that the crumbling abrasive does not leave scratches. It also wouldn’t hurt to cover the surface of the tool rest with vinyl self-adhesive.

Often, ordinary abrasive stones are used to sharpen knives at home. But their use requires special practice, since if the angle for sharpening is incorrect, the result will be disastrous. The blade will not have proper sharpness, which will require additional processing.

Rules for sharpening knives

Before you start making homemade device To sharpen knives, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of specialists. At the first stage, it is necessary to determine the angle between the working part of the blade and the block. This can be done individually for each model.

The knife should be positioned strictly perpendicular to the direction of the block. The angle in this case can be equal to half the sharpening. This is due to the fact that during processing, grooves are formed on the surface of the blade. They appear due to exposure to abrasive components. With minimal tool grit, they will be negligible. But there will also be a small degree of impact on the knife.

In addition to this factor, when sharpening a knife with your own hands, you should consider:

the average sharpening angle is 20-25 degrees;
processing is performed from the beginning of the blade;
To control the sharpening angle, you can paint over part of the blade with a marker. In this way, the actual area of influence can be controlled.

It should be remembered that the deformation along the entire length of the working blade will be non-uniform. Therefore, when sharpening with your own hands, the “point of reference” should be the bluntest part of the knife.

The grooves formed due to the impact of the bar must be strictly perpendicular to the line of the knife. This is the main condition for proper sharpening.

Selecting whetstones for sharpening knives

Main component homemade machine There will be a whetstone for sharpening. This is an abrasive material that, when applied to the blade, thins it, increasing its sharpness. Therefore, before choosing a design, you should choose the right bars.

The main indicator of the bar is the grain size, but the dimensions should also be taken into account. Ideally, the length of the tool should be no less than the length of the knife. This will ensure uniform processing and reduce the likelihood of defects.

To sharpen knives with your own hands, you will need the following types of whetstones:

high grain size. With their help, primary processing occurs, the shape of the blade is corrected;
medium grit. They are designed to remove grooves formed during the first operation;
whetstone or leather belt rubbed with GOM paste. This stage is called polishing or finishing the blade.

The main task of drawing up a design diagram is correct location bars. Therefore, we will consider several options for fixing them relative to the knife blade.

To sharpen ordinary kitchen knives, two types of whetstones will be sufficient - with high and medium grit. In addition to them you will need a touchstone.

A simple version of the machine

The simplest version of the machine design consists of two pairs wooden slats, connected to each other using adjustable screws. A block is attached between these components.

The main condition for the manufacture of this structure is stability. While working, it should not change its location on the desktop. For better fixation of the beam, it is recommended to provide support strips located between the wooden components.

Despite the ease of making it yourself, this machine has a number of disadvantages:

the blade is manually adjusted relative to the stone. At long work it is not always possible to control the sharpening angle;
an additional fixation unit will be required. Since the structure must be stable, it must be firmly fixed on the desktop;
During operation, the ties may loosen, thereby changing the location of the bar.

The main advantage of this scheme is its ease of manufacture. The design is suitable for sharpening kitchen knives at home. Touchstone will be required as additional components.

The thickness of the wooden slats may vary. In fact, to make such a structure yourself, you can use any available materials.

Manual sharpening machine with whetstone adjustment

For achievement best result It is recommended to take drawings of factory tool models as a basis. Their difference from the instructions described above lies in the rigid fixation of the knife, but this will require great effort to manufacture.

The design consists of a support table on which the knife blade is mounted. A screw stand is installed in a vertical position. A bar with a slot is attached to it. The whetstone is mounted on a guide rod. The sharpening angle is changed by moving the slotted bar along the screw post.

Features of operating a machine of this type:

The sharpening angle is set with high accuracy. Its change depends on the thread pitch of the rack;
Instead of a block, you can use sandpaper. For this purpose, a base is made of plexiglass. A hole is made along it for installation on the guide rod. Sandpaper is glued to the surface of the plexiglass;
It is best to make the supporting base wide. This will make it possible to secure it with clamps on any tabletop.

The main problem with using this design is the long adjustment of the sharpening angle. This may affect the speed of work completion if several types of knives are processed. Each of them requires a long setup of the machine.

To increase the quality, you can use water or oil. They are applied to the abrasive surface, thereby reducing the impact of chipped stone particles on the blade.

Sharpening machine with adjustable knife position

An alternative option for manufacturing the machine is to change the position of the knife relative to the stone. In general, the design is in many ways similar to that described above, but much simpler to manufacture.

A movable fastening block for a pin with a stone is installed on the base. Two clamps are mounted on the same plane. One of them will be persistent, and the second will be adjustable. By changing the distances between the clamps you can adjust the sharpening angle.

The main disadvantage of this design is the wear of the bar in one place. To solve this problem, it is recommended to make a long pin to adjust the position of the edge relative to the blade.

In addition to the schemes described above, there are a lot of sharpening machines that you can make yourself. When choosing optimal model should be based on the actual availability of available materials. It is also recommended to analyze factory machines. Often they are the basis for the manufacture of a unique design.

There are two main reasons why buying a factory sharpener is not an option. Firstly, the purchase of an inexpensive device made in China, in further operation, will not provide the product with the required quality.

Branded copies can be a solution to this problem, but a significant drawback is the cost. If you don’t have the opportunity or just the desire to pay a tidy sum for a device, you can make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. There is no need to develop new designs; create your own creation based on already existing models. DIY knife sharpening machine, different types with detailed instructions.

We imitate a sharpener model from Lansky

This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of two metal corners, connected to each other. The sharpening angle is determined by the hole in which the knitting needle with the nozzle at the end will be inserted.

Of the options being considered, this one is the least convenient to use, but not easy to manufacture. We will improve the device and try to make a device for sharpening knives with a wider range of pressing angle degrees.

We take ordinary metal plates,

whose dimensions are 4x11 cm. Or more, all the same, during operation, the parts will be filed and adjusted to the required parameters.

Using a grinder, sharp corners are removed at the ends of the parts (the sides that act as clamps). Using a file, we grind down the edges of the clamps; you should get a smooth bevel from the middle of the base to the edges of the plates.

According to the drawing, we make markings for future holes. We drill them and cut the threads. We round off all sharp edges and corners on the plates with a file (not only for the sake of nobleness appearance, but also for the sake of comfortable use, so that nothing gets into your hands).

We purchase a standard aluminum corner and make holes in it in accordance with the drawing above. We cut threads in the holes intended for the entry of the pin. And the hole that is intended to support the knitting needles must be widened using a needle file.

Next you will need two pieces of metal rod

approximately 15 cm long. We insert them into the outer holes and fix the insertion depth with two nuts of the corresponding diameter. In our case, these elements are equal to size M6. Into a hole of a larger diameter we screw a bolt (length about 14 cm) size M8, onto which a wing nut is already screwed, and on top of it a pair of ordinary ones, but larger in diameter than the bolt itself. It will be used as a support post for the structure. The remaining holes are for bolts that will be used to adjust the clamping force of the blade.

Nuts are threaded onto the ends of the rods, then corners are put on, which are again pressed with the help of nuts. By lowering them up or down, we can adjust the required sharpening angle.

The element that will hold the blade for sharpening is assembled from a thin metal rod (shaped like the letter “L”), two holders (the outer one with a through hole for a knitting needle), a wing nut and a rod with an M6 thread.

We imitate a sharpener model from Spyderco

This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of a plastic horizontal holder with several holes. And each nest has its own angle of inclination.

Of all the options that will be considered, this one has the lowest level of sharpening quality. The problem is that the blade will be pressed manually, unlike the first option, without additional fixation about the support. But despite this, this device for sharpening knives, it is quite suitable for use for domestic purposes, and plus - it is very simple in terms of production.

In the process we will need two wooden bars with dimensions 6x4x30 cm, two bolts and wing nuts of size M6 or M8, two thin knitting needles (curved in the shape of the letter “L”).

The tools you need are a hacksaw blade, a chisel and a hammer, a file with sandpaper, a school protractor and a drill.

Using a regular protractor

We apply markings with the required angle of inclination. We take the canvas and file the first mark on one of the parts. There is no need to go deeper than the width of the canvas itself.

Turn the hacksaw over and insert its blunt side into the cut slot. We place the second part on top and make sure that both the edges of the elements themselves and the markings on them match. Next, we saw through all the remaining lines in the same way.

Apply the chisel to the excess wood that needs to be removed. Lightly tap the top of the chisel with a hammer and knock out small chips. When the bulk of the wood has been removed, we bring the area to the required level using a file.

We drill holes for the bolts and spokes to fit in as shown in the figure. Using fine-grit sandpaper, we smooth the edges of the holes, the corners of the parts and their entire surface.

We thread the bolts through the larger holes, then thread regular nuts and tighten them tighter. The smaller ones contain knitting needles (necessary to prevent the blades from sliding down during operation). We insert the canvases themselves into the grooves and press them against the second half of the product. At the end we fix everything with a pair of wing nuts.

We imitate a sharpener model from Apex

This machine for sharpening knives is presented in the form of a fairly massive device with a stand and a platform placed on it at an angle; a rod is mounted on the side, on which the end of the nozzle rests. This type of sharpening device, despite its dimensions, is the most successful in comparison with the previous ones.

It is easy to use and its sharpening quality is high. In addition, making such a knife sharpener with your own hands is very simple.

To work we will need the following:

(not a whole one, even a quarter is enough);
magnet (with slots for bolts, if it is not possible to drill them yourself);
metal rod M6 or M8;
Not large sizes wooden block;
a small piece of plexiglass;
two bolts and three wing nuts;
10 screws;
4 rubber feet;
saw;
drill;
ceramic clamps (or wood blanks).

First you need to cut three small blanks from a sheet of chipboard. Dimensions of the first: 37x12 cm. Dimensions of the second: 30x8 cm, measuring 6 cm from the edge on the longer side, drill a hole. Dimensions of the third: 7x8 cm. We saw off an 8 cm long element from the block (section 4x2 cm).

We drill two through holes perpendicular to each other in the segment. The first is at a distance of 3 cm from one edge, the second is at the same distance from the other. Starting from the edge of the block and right up to the hole, we cut out a pile of wood 1 cm thick. The plexiglass cut has the following parameters: 6x12 cm. A slot is drilled along the middle of the blade.

We take the first largest workpiece

from chipboard and drill holes in the corners for future legs of the product. At a distance of 4 cm from its edge, we place the smallest workpiece perpendicularly and connect them together using 2 self-tapping screws.

We place the edge of a medium-sized part on the top of the small workpiece and again connect them using 2 self-tapping screws. The hole in the middle piece should be closer to the top of the smaller one. The free edge of a medium-sized workpiece is rigidly attached to the platform great details again using 2 self-tapping screws.

Using a drill, drill a shallow cavity into medium-sized parts. It should be almost at the very edge of it highest point, and the dimensions correspond to the parameters of the magnet.

We mount a magnet inside (so that it does not rise above the level of the surface of the board) and fix it with small self-tapping screws.

We place a piece of plexiglass on a medium-sized board so that its hole and slot coincide with each other. We pass a bolt with a washer on it through them and screw the nut from below.

A hole with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the iron rod is drilled on the free edge of the largest chipboard part. The rod itself is fixed using two nuts: a regular one and a wing nut. To prevent them from cutting into the surface of the board, we separate them using washers.

A blank from a block is screwed onto a fixed rod.

A bolt is inserted into the hole to which the cut was made, screwed on the outside with a nut. By tightening the knob, we fix the part at a certain height of the rod; when we release it, we move it up and down freely. The sharpening angle is adjusted using this bar (raise or lower along the rod).

The element for clamping the sharpening blade is assembled from a cut of a metal rod of two ceramic or wooden blanks and 4 nuts with washers. They are strung in the same order as in the photo. At the very end, rubber feet are screwed on for greater stability of the product.

We looked at three various options sharpening devices. And each of them has its pros and cons. You should choose a specific option based on your needs, as well as your skills in a similar work plan.

Information to note : , .