Fruit trees can be planted in spring and autumn while the plants are leafless and their buds have not yet begun to bloom.
Spring is the best time to plant fruit trees in the north and in middle lane. In the southern regions it is better to plant in the fall. There is no threat of a harsh winter, and spring plantings cannot be affected by the spring drought that is common in areas of the southern zone.
In Siberia and the Urals, in areas with sufficient snow cover, fruit trees are planted in the fall, and in areas with little snow - in the spring. In central regions, with less severe winters and greater snow cover, trees can be planted in the fall, but no later than 20-25 days before the onset of the first stable frost.
It is more convenient to plant together. One person installs the seedling so that the roots extend evenly in all directions from the stem, and the other person covers the roots with prepared soil. It is necessary to ensure that the transition point of the roots into the trunk, called the root collar, is 5-7 cm above the soil surface. It is especially necessary to monitor the grafting site, which must be above the soil level.
When filling the roots, shake the seedling slightly so that the soil fills all the voids between the roots. The buried roots are lightly compacted with feet and, if necessary, more soil is added. A mound of any soil is poured around the trunk along the perimeter of the hole, forming a funnel for irrigation. After planting, watering is required, pouring two or three buckets onto one seedling. After watering, the soil is lightly covered with dry soil or peat to protect the soil from drying out and cracking. When planting a tree, the stake located in the center of the hole should almost touch the trunk of the seedling and cover the tree on the south side. This position of the stake will protect the tree bark from overheating sun rays. The seedling is tied to the stake with twine using a figure of eight pattern.
In areas with steep slope(10-12%) make terraces, the width of which is determined by the projection of the crown of an adult tree and should be at least 2.5-3 m.
Pruning planted trees
Plants planted in the garden have a root system that was greatly shortened when dug up, but their above-ground part has been completely preserved. It is clear that shortened roots are not able to provide nutrition and water to the above-ground part of the plant. To reduce the load on the damaged root system, it is necessary to partially shorten the main branches of the crown, cutting them off by about one-third of the entire length.
When planting in spring, pruning is carried out immediately, and trees planted in autumn are left unpruned until spring. In spring, pruning is done as early as possible, before the plant buds have time to bloom. When pruning, the side branches are shortened by about one-third of their length, while the central shoot, growing straight up, is cut so that it is 20-25 cm higher than the other branches of the tree. The branches need to be trimmed with a sharply sharpened knife above the outer bud. Cherries and plums should not be pruned, as their wounds heal very slowly and often lead to disease.
Protecting plants from damage
At autumn planting after the first slight frost, the trunks of planted trees should be covered with mounds of earth up to 40 cm high. This will protect the plants from freezing. In early spring The trees must be freed from mounds of earth and the soil under them must be loosened.
Autumn plantings for the winter are protected from mice, hares and other rodents by tying the stems along their entire length with spruce branches with the needles facing down. If spruce branches cannot be obtained, the trunks of planted plants can be tied with roofing felt (or other material) and tied with twine so that the roofing felt fits tightly to the tree trunk.
Any novice gardener dreams of white blossoming fruit trees in the spring and a bountiful harvest in the fall. Any experienced gardener who considers his luxurious garden a source of pride Orchard, knows that the basis of success is right choice seedlings, proper landing and care in the early years.
The whole conversation on this topic comes down to answers to 5 questions:
- Where and how to choose the right fruit tree seedlings?
- When is the best time to plant young trees?
- How to choose a place for fruit trees?
- How to plant correctly?
- How to care for young plantings?
Where is the right place to buy young fruit tree seedlings?
Buying tree seedlings with which a summer resident plans to connect his life for several decades from a granny on the road or at a spontaneous market is a big risk. If there is no well-tested, reputable gardener selling planting material, then perfect option– contact the nursery.
Nursery specialists will help you choose a suitable seedling, recommend a variety based on the buyer’s requests, and advise on the specifics of planting and care. But no matter how beautifully a consultant speaks, he is first and foremost a seller. Therefore, a beginner in gardening must be well-versed in order to buy a truly high-quality product.
What should a buyer know when choosing seedlings?
- When choosing a variety fruit trees adaptation to regional conditions must be taken into account;
- When purchasing a seedling with an open root system, you need to carefully examine the roots.
The root system should be densely branched, with many small flexible roots, fresh, not broken off or damaged during digging, at least 20 cm long for one-year-old seedlings, about 30 cm for two-year-old seedlings;
- When carefully examining the roots, you should pay attention to ensure that there are no growths, lumps, or thickenings that could signal cancer;
- When choosing a seedling with a closed root system in a container, you need to check whether the tree actually grew in this container or whether it was inserted into the container before sale. To do this, you need to carefully lift the tree, holding the trunk near the ground. The earthen lump does not crumble, it is taken out along with the roots - such a product can be taken with confidence.
How to choose the right fruit seedlings?
To be more sure, you can check whether there are roots that have escaped from the pot through the bottom drainage holes;
- Preference should be given to younger seedlings: the optimal age is from one to three years. It is a mistaken belief that older trees will bloom faster and begin to bear fruit earlier. The fact is that the older the specimen, the more difficult it is to take root, the more time and effort it needs to adapt to a new place. As a result, such trees even lag behind in development, bringing undeserved disappointment to the gardener who made the wrong choice;
- After examining the roots, you should inspect the trunk no less carefully: the purchase will be successful if the seedling has an even, smooth, well-formed trunk without mechanical damage and obvious signs of fungal diseases. Annual trees may have no side branches, biennial trees usually have three branches of 30-40 cm each. The height of the plant from the root is about a meter, which is typical for annual trees; biennial trees grow up to one and a half meters.
After purchase, seedlings with an open root system can be placed in water for a couple of days if the roots are sufficiently dry. Before planting, the roots should be carefully wrapped in wet material, better burlap. If there are leaves, they should be carefully torn off so that the tree does not lose moisture.
More details about the choice planting material on video:
What is the best time to plant seedlings - spring or autumn?
Fruit trees are planted in both spring and autumn. The choice of planting time depends on the type and variety of tree.
Frost-resistant varieties of apple and pear trees are planted in the fall, when all the main seasonal activities have already been completed, the temperature remains at least 10-15 degrees, and there is still at least a month before the first frost. The root system of the tree has time to strengthen and begins to grow before the onset of cold weather. In the spring, such seedlings begin to grow earlier than those planted at the beginning of the dacha season.
It is preferable to plant heat-loving stone fruits (plums, cherries, apricots) and those varieties of apple and pear trees that are characterized by poor frost resistance. permanent place early spring, before buds open.
Spring planting It is also recommended in cases where the soil on the site is too heavy, dense and wet.Choosing a location for fruit trees
Since fruit trees are planted immediately in a permanent place where they will grow for decades, the choice of planting site must be approached very responsibly. Most trees of this species prefer sunny areas, protected from the winds.
Places with traffic should be avoided groundwater close to the soil surface, since with age the tree will be susceptible to rotting.
Tall and wide apple and pear trees are planted at a distance of at least 5 m, medium-sized varieties need to be spaced 3-4 meters apart, and columnar forms need a meter of soil in diameter. If planting is planned near buildings, the same parameters must be observed so as not to interfere with tree growth in the future.
The main rules for planting fruit seedlings
Fruit trees are planted in holes dug at least two weeks before planting. If you plan to plant a tree in the spring, then it is best to prepare the hole in the fall so that the soil has time to compact: this will reduce the risk of deepening the root collar of the plant. The universal pit size is 80 cm in diameter and depth.
Basic landing rules:
- Place a layer of expanded clay at the bottom of the hole, last year’s leaves on top, then sprinkle well with wood ash;
- Mix a bucket of humus or compost with fertile soil removed from the hole during the digging process, place this mixture at the bottom of the hole;
- Place the seedling on this layer, straighten the roots, then add another bucket of humus or compost, shaking the seedling to fill the entire hole space with soil as much as possible;
- Compact the soil and carefully pour out two buckets of water;
- When the water is completely absorbed, the hole is filled to the top. fertile soil, once again water well and mulch the tree trunk circle with rotted sawdust, wood chips, and leaves.
Mulching will conserve soil moisture and prevent the formation of a hard surface crust.
- When planting, it is extremely important not to deepen the root collar of the plant or expose it by planting the tree at an insufficient depth.
Once again about the root collar of a seedling in the video:
This charge will be enough for the young tree for the first couple of years, during which all its care will be reduced to watering.
How to care for a young, freshly planted tree
Regular, abundant watering is all a seedling needs for good development. Even autumn seedlings need to be watered before the first frost. Watering is the basis for the future health of the tree.Disease prevention and pest protection should not be neglected, because it will be difficult for the seedling to withstand these problems. The first wintering also requires a responsible approach: the bark of young fruit trees is often nibbled by mice and hares, so the trunk must be protected. After whitewashing it is wrapped plastic bottles, lay hoses around or car tires to repel rodents.
Even frost-resistant varieties can freeze slightly in the first years of life, especially in winters with little snow. To avoid this, the trees are covered with spruce branches.
When the fruit tree blooms for the first time, especially if this happens in the first year after planting, you need to muster up the will and remove the long-awaited flowers so that the tree concentrates all its energy on development, on the formation of the root system and crown, and does not spend it on ripening a pair of fruits.
By following all these rules, the gardener will receive his first harvest in a few years, and the garden will become a source of pride and admiration.
A beautiful and well-kept garden that produces a bountiful harvest of berries and fruits is the pride of anyone. personal plot, either Vacation home, cottage or summer hacienda. To achieve good results, you should follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners who use their own experience, collected over the years. First of all, you need to understand that any plant is a living being, which is influenced not only by compliance with certain rules of agricultural technology, but also lunar phases, climatic conditions, soil indicators and even the mood of the gardener involved in planting or care. It is advisable to carry out all work in accordance with life cycles certain types of crops.
How to properly care for seedlings - from selection and planting to fruiting
Selection of seedlings
Of course, the choice of planting material directly affects the qualitative and quantitative characteristics of the future harvest. Buy plants from specialized gardening stores, reputable nurseries, or from familiar gardeners who guarantee their quality.
It is advisable to replant all trees and shrubs, especially stone fruits, before the age of 1 year. Two-year-old plants much more often do not take root in a new place, get sick or bear little fruit. This is due to the fact that younger seedlings have a less developed crown and a short thin trunk, due to which the process of adaptation to a new place of residence is not only faster and easier, but also more painless.
The normal height of annual stone fruit trees is 1.1 to 1.3 meters, and that of pome trees is 0.9 to 1 meter. These recommendations apply to plants with a bare root system (no earthen ball on the roots).
What are the criteria for selecting seedlings?
1. Special attention You should pay attention to the roots: if they are long, but the main rhizomes do not have sufficient small roots (“hairy” roots), then it is better to refrain from purchasing them. It is the small branches that allow the plant to absorb the maximum amount of nutrients from the soil.
2. Seedlings take root better if they are dug up in early autumn. Such plants lack the characteristic immature green top, which is characteristic of seedlings removed from the ground in August or even at the end of July.
Preparing seats
Planting holes are dug in advance. Even if planting is planned in the spring, it is still advisable to prepare the holes in the fall. The top fertile layer of soil (it is darker in color) is deposited separately from the rest of the earth. The depth of the hole is at least 0.6 m, and the diameter is 1 m, since it is necessary to provide space for the root system. Lower (infertile, light color, from sand and clay), a layer of soil is no longer needed - it can be scattered in a thin layer around the site or in the garden. The bottom is lined with drainage made of river sand and fine gravel or pebbles. Spray the seat thoroughly clean water. It is advisable to start planting no earlier than after 1 month.
Planting seedlings:
1. Checked before boarding root system plants: tips are cut off (1-2 cm), broken rhizomes or those with signs of rotting are removed.
2. A soil mixture consisting of 2 parts of fertile soil (set aside in a separate pile), 1 part of rotted manure or garden compost and 1 part of peat is poured onto the bottom of the hole.
3. The seedling is placed in the center of the heap so that the graft (root collar) is 3-4 cm above the surface of the area (burrowing can lead to the plant rotting and dying), while the lower roots are carefully straightened along the slopes of the mound.
4. At a distance of about 10 cm from the trunk, drive in prepared wooden pegs (to support young trees) in an amount from 1 to 3, with a height equal to the height of the seedling.
5. Fill the hole evenly by distributing the fertile soil.
6. Firmly compact the soil with your feet (this stage is carried out to remove air bubbles remaining from the soil during planting, which cause root rotting), then water the plant at the rate of 10 to 12 liters per seedling.
7. The settled soil must be replenished with soil to the previous level.
8. Mulch the tree trunk circle with peat (a covering layer of about 2 cm), then tie the plant well, but not tightly, to the peg(s).
Watering seedlings
Plants need regular watering for at least two years. It is during this period that complete rooting occurs, and the tree becomes strong and hardy. Watering is carried out in all months except cold ones (from the first frost until the snow completely melts). The volume of water for each plant and the frequency of watering depend on the current weather conditions. In the absence of precipitation, trees are watered for 12-14 days until water begins to be absorbed into the soil with a delay. With this method of watering, a soil crust forms over the next day, which is loosened to a shallow depth.
Fruiting
Future productivity directly depends on how strong the tree becomes. Annual apples and peaches will bear their first fruits after 2-3 years, apricots, cherries and plums - 3-4, and pears - about 5 years. If young trees bloom earlier than the agreed date, then all flowers are removed so as not to weaken the plants.
Wishing you abundant harvests in your garden!
Properly and timely planted trees quickly take root and begin to grow. At first, you should monitor their development and correct deficiencies in a timely manner. Now care consists of watering, fertilizing, protection from pests, weed control and loosening the soil. Fertilizing fruit trees is very important.
It is very useful to feed trees in spring nitrogen fertilizers. This ensures the emergence of new branches. The amount of fertilizer depends on the age, crown size and trunk circle of the trees. With a circle diameter of 1 m, 30 g of saltpeter is added, for 2 m - 75 g, for 3 m - 175 g.
Summer feeding is combined with watering so that the fertilizer dissolves in the soil. At the same time, you need to correctly calculate the watering itself so that the fertilizer remains in the root zone. In dry weather, trees are watered with water (5 buckets per tree), then fed.
Fertilizing is effective in liquid form, since liquid is absorbed faster by the roots and affects the growth of the tree. It is better to apply the solution into ditches dug around the circumference of the crown. Five buckets of fertilizer are poured under one tree.
Organic and mineral fertilizers are used for feeding. The best fertilizer- bird droppings. It is placed in a tub, filled with water and left to ferment for 5 days. Water is added to the resulting infusion. Dose of solution - 1 bucket per 1 sq.m.
Many gardeners foliar feeding They use spraying trees with nutrient solutions. In this case, the plant receives substances through the leaves. For this type of feeding you need ammonium, calcium and sodium nitrate, and urea.
The timing of foliar feeding has been established: 1st - 7 days after flowering, 2nd - 30 days after the first, 3rd - 3 weeks before harvest. To feed strawberries, use saltpeter or urea - 30 g per 10 liters of water.
CARE OF SEEDLINGS IN THE FIRST YEAR
It is important to prevent the seedling from rubbing against the peg to which the tree is tied, to ensure that the garter material does not cut into the bark, and, if necessary, to loosen the garter. Damage to the trunk bark and branches is very dangerous for young trees.
Do not allow growth to appear on the trunks and from the roots; it must be cut out at the base. Overgrowth takes away nutrients from the tree and weakens it.
After planting, the tree trunk circles are kept loose and free of weeds. In the first year of growth, there is no need to fertilize the soil, since nutrients added in sufficient quantities to the hole during planting completely ensure the normal functioning of the roots.
At a young age, trees can be damaged by leaf-eating caterpillars, as well as green aphids. Each leaf destroyed by pests affects the growth of the seedling. Regularly and carefully inspecting the plantings, you need to collect and destroy caterpillars, and in case of mass infestation, use chemicals fight them.
CARE OF SEEDLINGS IN SUCCESSFUL YEARS
In the first years after planting, fruit trees do not completely use the entire area provided to them during placement. The development of the root system occurs first in volume landing pit, and only after about two years the roots go beyond its boundaries. The soil is cultivated mainly in the area of the tree trunk circle, which is expanded by about 0.5 m every year.
The remaining area (trunk strips, row spacing) remains free and is used for other crops.
The main tillage with the application of fertilizers is carried out in late autumn, when fruit trees finish growing and leaf fall ends. The soil is dug up with shovels, turning over the layer, without crushing the soil clods. When digging the soil in tree trunk circles, care must be taken: the shovel should not be too deep to avoid damaging the roots of the tree. Near the trunk, they dig no deeper than 7–8 cm; further processing can be done somewhat deeper.
When digging with the formation turnover, weeds are embedded in the soil, fertilizers applied before digging are covered, fallen leaves are filled in, many of which are infected with diseases (scab, spotting, etc.), pests that hibernate in the upper soil layers - beetles, pupae, larvae - are turned out onto the day surface. . In addition, the blocky soil surface in autumn and, especially, spring retains moisture better.
Spring treatment tree trunk circles consists of loosening the soil without turning over the layer, and ends with leveling the soil surface followed by mulching (shading with humus, peat, grass), which protects the soil from drying out, the formation of a surface crust and weeds.
Caring for fruit trees and seedlings
In spring, fruit trees feel the need for fertilizers, especially nitrogen, necessary for the growth of young plants. At this time, feeding trees with saltpeter and synthetic urea is very useful.
In dry times, watering is required.
How to fight aphids?
It must also be said that in addition to hot and dry weather, which does not have a very good effect on the growth and productivity of trees, you can expect other troubles, for example, such as aphids. Every summer resident knows how much these tiny bugs can ruin the harvest of not only fruits, but also berries and vegetables. But you shouldn’t despair, because there are several methods for controlling aphids, so you just need to do necessary instructions. And also do not forget to take good care of your garden so that such “guests” avoid them.
One of the means of preventing and controlling aphids is adding potassium to the soil. No, not in the form of mineral fertilizers containing potassium, but in the form wood ash. Plants under which stove ash has been applied are less damaged by pests. (Last year in the fall, I accidentally, without thinking, poured a decent amount of ash under the roses, I was in a hurry. This year, my neighbors’ roses are covered with aphids, but mine are clean).
Aphids are collected by sparrows and other birds. We feed them in winter, attracting them to the garden. Larvae eat aphids ladybugs, we must take care of them and other beneficial insects that help fight aphids. What to do if aphids do appear in the garden?
Of course, the easiest way is to buy it in a store. chemicals. I will not list them; any seller will advise what will help in the fight against aphids. But chemicals also destroy beneficial insects: ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, and various ichneumon flies. All of them are natural enemies of aphids. Therefore, let’s remember what we use ourselves and look on the Internet what home remedies other gardeners use to combat aphids. Let's choose what suits us.
Fighting aphids using folk remedies.
Almost all aphid control recipes include soap. Moreover, it is most convenient to use liquid soap or dish soap. Soap is used for better adhesion; it has a viscous consistency, envelops insects and does not allow them to breathe, because aphids breathe through the skin.
Spraying with preparations must be carried out several times, at intervals of several days, so that all aphids die. Spray the plants better evening, when beneficial insects that pollinate plants no longer fly, because drugs can destroy them too. It is better to cut off severely damaged shoots completely and burn them.
Caring for fruit trees in the photo
From the time of planting to the end of their life, fruit trees undergo a number of significant changes, different in each age period.
First period- P a period of enhanced development of vegetative (growth) parts. In the process of caring for garden trees in this phase, it should be taken into account that at this time the development of growth organs predominates over fruit ones. The number of the latter increases by the end of the period; Fruit buds are laid on them.
The second period is the period of fruiting. It is characterized by an increase in the number of overgrowing branches and fruit buds to the greatest extent, and a decrease in the growth of vegetative parts. This is the longest period in the life of a tree. It is especially important.
The third period is the period of mass death of skeletal (main) branches. It is characterized by a gradual weakening of fruiting and increased death of individual, mainly peripheral parts of the crown, with new shoots (tops) appearing on the older parts. When caring for fruit trees during this period, one must not forget that the peripheral part of the plant root system at this time begins to die, and new roots appear on the old ones closer to the base of the tree.
These periods are interconnected by a number of transition periods.
Berry plants also go through the same periods, only they proceed faster.
Fruit plants, like perennial woody plants, go through periods of vegetation and dormancy every year. During the growing season it takes place in in a certain order a series of phenophases of growth and fruiting.
Caring for fruit trees as advised experienced gardeners, it is necessary to take into account the main phenophases:
- Spring growing season: a) swelling of buds - growth and fruit; b) bud opening; c) separation of inflorescences and buds; d) the appearance of curled petals in the buds.
- Flowering - beginning, mass flowering, end of flowering.
- Fruiting is a phenophase from the beginning of fruit set until the onset of their removable maturity.
- Shoot growth is a phenophase, covering a period of increased growth and ending with the formation of the apical bud.
- Autumn vegetation - from the end of shoot growth to the end of leaf fall.
Rest period fruit plants continues from the fall of the leaves in the fall until the swelling of the buds in the spring. It is associated with the cold season.
The duration of each period, as well as the passage of individual phenophases of fruit plants depend on the species and varietal characteristics, as well as external conditions and agricultural technology.
The care of trees in the garden in spring, summer and autumn is largely determined by the qualitative changes of plants in individual age periods. Separate techniques, or agricultural complexes, must be applied in accordance with the passage of phenophases and taking into account the breed and varietal characteristics of fruit plants in specific conditions.
Caring for fruit tree seedlings should be aimed at creating favorable conditions during the first period of fruit tree development, ensuring strong vegetative growth, formation of fruiting organs and accelerated entry into fruiting.
As practice shows, it is necessary to care for trees in the garden in such a way that all activities contribute to the timely annual passage of the growth phases of fruit plants during the growing season, their complete completion and sufficient hardening for the winter. This is achieved by using a system of agrotechnical measures for cultivating the soil in the garden and caring for fruit plants.
How to properly care for young fruit tree seedlings in the garden
You need to care for young fruit trees as carefully as possible to ensure complete survival of the planted plants, their good condition and complete growth at the end of the growing season. The soil in the garden in the first year of planting should be kept moist and free from weeds. When caring for young fruit trees in spring and summer, it is necessary to make 4-5 waterings and destroy all weeds by weeding. After each watering of the trees in the garden, the cover of the holes should be adjusted.
The spacing of young plantings can be used for vegetable crops with the obligatory removal of weeds and loosening of the soil at least three times during the summer. Berry crops must be kept especially free of weeds.
During the summer, it is necessary to monitor the development and condition of planted trees. Emerging pests - caterpillars and beetles that eat buds and leaves - must be immediately destroyed by collecting or pollinating and spraying with pesticides, since damaged trees sharply reduce their survival rate and sometimes die.
In the process of caring for fruit trees in the fall, after autumn tillage of the soil in the inter-rows, trunk circles and strips, to protect the plants from frost and rodents, the trunks and crowns should be tied, and to protect the roots from freezing, they should be hilled up with earth.
When caring for garden trees in the spring, the mounds are leveled and the binding is removed.
Here you can watch a video on caring for fruit trees in the garden:
Pruning garden trees in the photo
One of the main works in the general complex of agricultural measures for caring for trees in the first years after planting is the formation of the crown, on which the condition and durability of the fruit tree largely depend.
The formation and pruning of garden trees is aimed at creating a stable crown skeleton, firmly connected to the trunk and capable of supporting a full harvest without support. Also, pruning trees when caring for a garden contributes to the correct and uniform distribution of branches along the trunk and in space, ensuring free access of air and light to the crown, and the possibility of mechanization production processes for the care of plants and crops.
These conditions are most fully satisfied by the formation of the crown when pruning garden trees using a tieless system. With this system, the crown of the apple tree should have at least 6-8 main skeletal branches, the three lower branches should be brought together at a distance of 8-12 cm, and the overlying ones should be distributed 15-20 cm from each other. In plums, all main branches are distributed at equal distances - 5-10 cm.
In order to properly prune trees in the garden, the height of the trunks of apple and pear trees with a medium spreading crown (Anise, Antonovka vulgaris, Borovinka, Alabaster, etc.) should be left at about 40-50 cm, and for varieties with a spreading crown (Skrut, Khoroshavka, etc.) 60 cm. For a grafted cherry, the trunk height should be about 40-50 cm. But in some cases it is better to form trees in a low-trunk and even bush form, especially in the Volga region, as mentioned above.
For trees planted with crowns established in the nursery, in the first year the three main branches and the extension shoot should be cut by 1/3-1/4; the branches between them should be shortened by 4-5 internodes, i.e., left as thickening shoots.
To lay the main (usually two) and side branches of the crown from the second year, and in trees that have given weak growth, from the third year until the crown is fully formed (usually within 3-5 years), you need to continue pruning the conductor by 30-40 cm. Thickening shoots on the trunk and main branches over a distance of 25-30 cm from their base are pinched (in the green state) into 3-5 buds. To regulate the growth of the main branches, the lower ones are cut smaller than the upper ones.
When laying new branches, it is necessary to ensure that they are correctly spaced from each other (15 - 20 cm) and evenly distributed in all directions. After the formation of the last lateral branch, it is necessary to cut out or weaken the continuation shoot by strong pruning.
During the entire period of crown formation, the development of lateral branches should be subordinated to the development of the trunk. Therefore, with all pruning, the continuation shoot is left longer than the main branches, and the latter, in turn, are longer than the thickening shoots.
After the completion of crown formation, thickening shoots between the lower skeletal branches are gradually, over 3-4 years, cut out “into a ring”. At this time, pruning of the ends of branches is usually stopped, and thinning of excess branches is mainly used
The video “Pruning trees in the garden” will help you better imagine how this agricultural technique is performed:
Garden care: how to prune fruit trees correctly
Young orchards in central Russia were usually planted with trees formed according to the type of five-legged or tiered crown. Most of the planting material with this formation is still produced by nurseries.
The formation of the crown is based on the tiered arrangement of branches. When planted in the garden, two-year-old seedlings should have five strong lateral branches (first tier) and a vertically directed continuation shoot. The main branches usually develop from buds located nearby on the trunk, less often through one (whorled crown).
The second tier of branches is laid on the guide in the second or third year after planting in the garden at a distance of 40-50 cm from the first. The side branches of the second tier should be in the spaces between the branches of the first tier. For the second tier, usually three branches are left, thinning them out through one internode.
If desired, the third tier can be laid in the same way. Three-year-old seedlings released from the nursery usually have a second tier of crown already established.
In the next 2-3 years, pruning is done mainly to regulate the strength of development of individual branches. The upper branches are pruned more heavily than the lower ones. The lateral branches between the tiers and skeletal branches are cut short or pinched, and when thickened, they are cut out completely.
Compared to a tiered system, tiered pruning of trees in the garden has a number of disadvantages:
- whorled arrangement of the main branches of the first tier, which does not ensure their strong fusion with the trunk, therefore, under the weight of the harvest, the branches may break (if supports are not placed), which reduces the durability of the tree;
- crowding of branches, creating less favorable conditions for lighting and air access to internal parts crowns, as a result of which the central conductor and main branches develop poorly and some of them often die. In some varieties (Anise, Antonovka vulgaris, etc.) these shortcomings are expressed to a lesser extent.
A five-year-old tree formed according to a five-legged (tiered) system.
A relatively stronger five-legged crown is obtained by thinning the lateral branches on the trunk by cutting them out one or two at a time.
In order to properly prune fruit trees, as experienced gardeners advise, you need to start this activity in early spring before the sap begins to flow, since pruning a tree that has begun to grow can weaken its development.
To avoid thickening of the crown, branches should be cut to the outer bud. In cases where the branch strongly deviates downward or is directed to the side, pruning should be done either on the inner bud or on the lateral one.
Soil care in the garden: processing techniques
Agrotechnical measures for caring for the soil in a young garden should be aimed at increased growth of trees in the first half of the growing season and at the timely completion of growth with full ripening of the wood and its hardening for the winter - in the second half of the growing season. To do this, you need to create from early spring to late summer Better conditions water supply and nutrition of fruit trees.
The soil in a young garden must be kept under black fallow. This soil cultivation technique promotes the accumulation and retention of moisture in the soil, the penetration of air into it, which promotes the accumulation of nutrients and their better absorption by plants. To do this, every year in the fall, the row spacing of the garden, not occupied by perennial crops, should be plowed to a depth of 18-20 cm, leaving the arable land unharrowed; plowing the row spacing should be carried out in the longitudinal and transverse directions, which reduces the area of digging near the tree trunks, or - one year in the longitudinal direction, and the other - in the transverse.
To retain moisture on slopes, plowing is carried out across them.
Unplowed strips and trunk circles are dug up to the same depth.
To avoid damage to the root system, digging near trees should be done to a shallower depth (8-10 cm), and when digging, the shovel should be placed with its edge facing the tree. Garden forks are very convenient for digging.
The diameter of the treated trunk circle should be approximately 1-1.5 m larger than the diameter of the crown; annually when digging, it should be increased by an average of 0.5 m.
In order to preserve moisture in the soil, use it economically and control weeds, several surface loosening is carried out in the spring and summer. In early spring, depending on the degree of readiness of the soil for cultivation, the row spacing is loosened with an ordinary harrow. You can also use a disc harrow for this purpose.
In the case of severe soil compaction after snow melts, which is usually observed on heavy loamy and clay soils, it needs to be loosened with a cultivator or huller, and then harrowed, without leaving large clods.
Simultaneously with loosening the row spacing, tree trunk circles and row strips of both the main planting and compactor crops are hoeed and harrowed with a rake.
In case of strong floating and compaction of the soil, tree trunk circles and row strips need to be dug up again and at the same time the surface should be leveled with a rake. After loosening, the tree trunk circles are mulched with manure, small straw, wood leaves and other materials to a thickness of 6-10 cm. This event is especially useful where it is not possible to carry out systematic watering. Mulching has a beneficial effect not only on preserving moisture in the soil, but also on preserving its structure, and also creates more favorable soil nutrition conditions for fruit plants.
When digging in autumn, mulching materials should be mixed with the soil.
During the spring-summer period, as the soil surface compacts, crust forms after rains and weeds appear, it is necessary to perform another 4-5 loosening of both tree trunk circles and strips, and row spacing, using hoes, horse-drawn or tractor cultivators, hullers and other tools. .
By the end of summer, with significant soil moisture and the observed delay in tree growth, soil loosening should be stopped. In dry summers, when shoot growth has ceased normally, loosening continues until autumn.
Tilling the soil in the garden: what fertilizers to apply to fruit trees
How to fertilize fruit trees in the garden? For improvement physical properties soils that change sharply under the influence of long-term cultivation (strong spraying), as well as improving the nutritional conditions of trees, it is necessary to systematically apply organic fertilizer - manure, compost, peat feces, etc. - to the trunk circles and strips. In the order of alternation with organic fertilizers, complete mineral fertilizer is also applied - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Manure for fertilizer when cultivating soil is used only good quality. Contribute it like others organic fertilizers, for the first 3-5 years it is necessary annually or every other year, and in subsequent years - after two years for the third at a rate of 4-6 kg per meter; apply mineral fertilizers annually, except for the next year of manure application, at the rate of 10-12 g active substance(nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) per sq. meter (approximately 25-30 g of ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of potassium salt).
The best results are obtained by annual joint application of organic and mineral fertilizers for fruit trees (in half doses).
Fertilizing garden trees with liquid nitrogen fertilizer - mineral or organic - has a great effect on the growth of young seedlings. For fertilizing, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate and other mineral fertilizers are used at the rate of 40 - 60 kg of active substance per hectare, or 4 - 6 g per square meter. meter, and from organic ones - cow and bird droppings, slurry.
Manure and other organic, as well as phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for fruit trees should be applied in the fall when digging tree trunks or plowing strips, nitrogen - in early spring and in fertilizing.
How else to fertilize garden trees
Fertilizers applied in liquid form have a faster effect on plants, so fertilizing should be done in relation to a certain phase of tree development.
Knowing how to fertilize garden trees, do not forget about application rates mineral supplements: about 30 g of ammonium sulfate or 25 g of ammonium nitrate per bucket of water - 3-4 buckets per tree, organic - 3-5 buckets. Organic fertilizers are diluted at the following rate: a bucket of bird droppings with 8-10 buckets of water, a bucket of cow droppings with 4-5 buckets, a bucket of slurry with 3-4 buckets of water.
Fertilizers are poured into holes or grooves around the tree (along the periphery of the crown). Fertilizing is usually timed to coincide with rains, and in the absence of them, preliminary watering of the circles is carried out at the rate of 3-7 buckets of water per tree, depending on its age and the size of the trunk circle.
What other fertilizers can be applied to fruit trees to speed up their growth? This could be bird or cow droppings. Such dressings are prepared in advance as follows: pour water to the top into a large tub (tub) or barrel filled 14-1/3 with clean droppings, cover the top, and then leave for 4-5 days to infuse. The resulting infusion is diluted when watering with the specified amount of water.
In irrigated gardens, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is carried out simultaneously with watering. Fertilizers are scattered evenly over the entire irrigated area. After watering the fruit trees, the holes and furrows are leveled.
Watering fruit trees and snow retention when caring for the garden
During the summer, fruit trees in a young garden need to be watered 3-5 times, depending on the properties of the soil and the amount of precipitation. On lighter soils, watering should be done more often than on heavier soils. Watering is especially necessary in the first half of summer (May - June), when trees grow most vigorously.
In young gardens, especially open places, in order to accumulate moisture and warm the soil, it is necessary to carry out snow retention with shields, snow banks and other means for snow retention great importance has a planting of berry bushes in rows of trees - currants or gooseberries with a distance between bushes of 2 m. Berry bushes can be planted either in each row, or after 1-3 rows, depending on the security of the garden and its size.
It is also necessary to apply measures to delay spring melt water by constructing snow dams, embanking individual areas on easy slopes, and on steeper ones - mulching the snow with straw, manure and other materials, under which water from slowly melting snow will not drain, but will be absorbed by the soil.
Caring for garden trees in spring and summer: inter-row crops
The row spacing of young gardens, not occupied by berries and other fruit crops, can be used for sowing and planting vegetables, melons, row crops, herbs and other crops.
The row spacing of apple and pear trees can be occupied by these crops for 10-12 years, cherries and plums - for 4-6 years.
Interrow crops are selected in accordance with planned targets, taking into account natural conditions, the possibility of mechanized or horse-drawn processing.
In order to care for fruit trees correctly, as many years of gardening experience have shown, crops are selected for row spacing that, while developing well, not only do not interfere with the development of the main plantings, but, on the contrary, create relatively favorable conditions for their growth. The best interrow crops in a young garden in the middle zone are row crops - root crops and vegetables and melons (, pumpkin). These crops require deep tillage and fertilization of the soil. Their development mainly takes place in the second half of summer. All this creates favorable conditions for tree growth and its timely completion at the end of the growing season.
Annual legumes (lentils, etc.), which enrich the soil with nitrogen, can also be used when sowing them late in rows as interrow crops. On wetter or irrigated soils, perennial grasses (alfalfa and wheatgrass) can be introduced for a period of no more than two years. They improve the structure of the soil, enrich it with nitrogen and clear it of weeds.
You should not occupy the row spaces with industrial and grain crops, as they greatly deplete the soil. Among berry crops, it should not be used as row spacing (compactor), which strongly dries out the soil and clogs it with offspring.
More efficient use row spacing is possible by establishing correct crop rotation for interrow crops. Mineral fertilizers and manure, as well as soil care between rows, are determined by the requirements of each crop in the crop rotation.
