How to properly install a sewer system in a country house. Country sewerage. How to arrange a toilet drain

You can feel all the benefits of living in a country house if such housing is equipped with all amenities. Whatever they say, sewerage is the same important aspect comfortable life, like electricity, gas or plumbing.

Development of a sewerage scheme

For the owners of a private house who decide to independently equip a new sewer system, it is best to draw its diagram on paper, maintaining the scale and proportions of the house as much as possible, taking into account the location of the rooms and premises in which it is planned to install equipment connected to the sewer.

The diagram should indicate not only main system objects: toilets, bathtubs, sinks, but also their constituent elements: corners, tees, plugs, revisions, etc. This approach will make it possible to accurately calculate the need for materials.

The first step is to determine the location of the final drainage. A pipeline from the house will be laid to it.

The exit location of the pipeline should be carefully considered, since this exit will have to be arranged through the foundation of the building or under it.

Knowing the exit location of the sewer pipe, you can plan the layout of the pipe network indoors. If the house is small in area, then it is enough one boner, to which branch pipelines from the kitchen, bath and toilet will be connected.

If the house is large and it is difficult to make connections to one riser, then it is worth planning two or even more risers with wastewater discharged to one place or to different places.

Choosing the right place

To determine the location of the sewage drainage, you need to be guided not only by the convenience of laying the pipeline, but also sanitary standards, designed specifically for such objects.

The distance from a residential building to a sewer pit should not be less 5 m, and from the fence no less 1m. From sources drinking water sewage pit open type located at a distance no closer 20 m with clay-type soil and no closer 50 m on sandy soil. It is customary not to place wastewater wells closer to 4 m from the roadway and garden trees, and also closer 30 m from the reservoir.

In addition, care must be taken to ensure that the well for collecting wastewater fits into the landscape as organically as possible. personal plot and did not cause any inconvenience when moving. It should also be conveniently located for access by sewage transport.

Tools and materials for sewer installation


To install a sewage system indoors, you will need to install a riser. The diameter of the pipes for it must be larger than the supply pipelines. Typically, pipes with a diameter of 100 mm or 150 mm are selected.

Supply pipes used for distribution from objects of use are selected with a diameter of 50-70 mm. The number of pipes is calculated depending on the location of the objects and their distance from the riser.

In addition to pipes you will need:

  • tees for connecting branches from the main pipe;
  • plugs for closing temporarily unused holes in pipes;
  • adapters for connecting pipes of different diameters;
  • inspections to make it possible to clean the pipe in case of blockages;
  • elbows for changing the angle of pipe connection;
  • various branches;
  • fasteners.

You can get by with a minimal set hand tools, but you may need a hammer drill, drill or grinder. To work with silicone sealant Convenient to use the mounting gun.

The choice of pipes is made taking into account feasibility, cost and technological characteristics. Special attention When choosing pipes, attention is paid to their resistance to deformation, corrosion resistance, ease of installation and maintenance.

The greatest demand currently is for polyvinyl chloride, polypropylene and polyethylene pipes with socket type connection and rubber seal.

Such pipes have good hydraulic characteristics, resistance to external loads, durability with good sealing of connections. They are easy to install, experience little wear during use, and are highly resistant to the build-up of deposits in the pipe lumen.

Pipes made of cast iron, steel, ceramics or asbestos cement are now used less and less. Steel and cast iron are reliable, but expensive materials; in addition, installation of sewerage systems from such pipes is more difficult. Ceramics and asbestos cement are fragile, short-lived and difficult to install and maintain.

Sewerage laying

Drawings for manufacturing

Interior work

Work inside the premises should be carried out taking into account the previously developed sewerage scheme. At this stage, it is important to decide on the type of installation of the system: external with open access to pipelines or hidden.

If the type of hidden arrangement is selected finishing materials(plasterboard, lining, plaster), then inspection windows should be provided in the places where inspections are installed.

Places for connecting bathtubs, sinks, toilets and other objects of use are selected in such a way that the pipeline from the object to the riser is located with a constant slope of 7 - 15 mm for each linear meter pipes.

This arrangement will ensure a constant flow of waste with minimal possibility of clogging. It is necessary to arrange the laying of the pipeline taking into account the possibility of its reliable fastening to the wall without sagging.

Pipelines are fixed to the wall with clips or clamps. The attachment points for the fixing fittings are located in close proximity to the pipe joining points and next to the shut-off elements of the system.

The riser at the point where it passes through the foundation is installed vertically and secured to prevent movement during the final sealing of the hole.

All objects are connected at an angle to the main line through bends or tees. Most suitable option the angle will be 45 or 60 degrees. 90 degree connections are most susceptible to clogging.

If there is no other possibility, in such places it is advisable to connect the system through a tee with a free end plug for possible revision of the joint. To ensure reliability, the joints should be coated with silicone sealant.

Exterior works

External sewerage work involves installing a wastewater receiver and laying a pipeline to it from the riser.

The pit for the wastewater collection tank is equipped manually or mechanized way. It is not advisable to install a sewage tank at a distance of more than 15 meters due to the increased cost of materials and deterioration of drainage.

As the distance to the waste pit increases, the angle of inclination of the pipeline decreases accordingly. If this angle is less than 7 mm per linear meter or less than 2 degrees throughout outdoor system The drainage of household waste will be difficult due to the low speed of its movement.

At the same time, you should not make the angle too steep. In this case, the liquid fraction of the drain will move much faster, and harder particles will settle on the walls, which can lead to clogging. In addition, a large slope of pipes increases their wear inner surface. External pipelines are always laid with a socket facing the flow of liquid.

The depth of the trench for the external pipeline is determined taking into account the depth of soil freezing. If it is not possible to lower the sewer pipes below this mark, the pipeline should be insulated.

The bottom of the trench should be compacted before its final filling to prevent subsidence of the soil and subsequent sagging of the entire system. Sand bedding should be placed at the bottom of the trench to prevent the possibility of mechanical damage to the pipe during compaction.

Construction of a sewer collector

A sewer collector is a pipeline that includes sewer pipes laid in trenches and, in fact, a collection tank of a certain type.

Biological treatment stations

Most effective method wastewater treatment - biological treatment in special aeration-type stations. The peculiarity of this purification method is that the output can be obtained with water purified by 95–98 percent, with the possibility of using it for watering the site.

Such stations can be installed in the immediate vicinity of a residential building on any type of soil. Stations made of polypropylene are completely sealed and tear-resistant. This material is easily soldered, non-toxic, and the thermal conductivity of walls made of foamed polypropylene is comparable to brickwork.

Station biological treatment is a container consisting of several chambers that perform different functions.

The primary purification of sewage from large fractions occurs in the receiving chamber. Slight oxidation of wastewater by activated sludge also occurs there.

More intense oxidation by sludge after removal of large waste fractions occurs in the main purification chamber - the aeration tank.

The next stage is the separation of working sludge from water in a secondary settling tank.

The fat film in this chamber is separated by a grease trap and transferred to an additional circuit in the aeration tank.

Activated sludge accumulates and settles in a separate chamber - stabilizer.

The principle of operation of the station is to destroy organic pollution wastewater by activated sludge formed in the aeration tank. In fact, organic matter is destroyed by aerobic bacteria entering the station with air. Excess activated sludge (1 - 2 buckets) is removed as it accumulates and can be used as fertilizer.

The service life of such systems is 50 years. At the same time, purified water is allowed to be discharged into water bodies, which indicates a high environmental safety such a system. In addition, there is no bad smell, and biomass retains its properties for up to 3 months without active use of the system.

Cesspools in the sewerage system

The simplest sewage system in a country house that you can do with your own hands is the arrangement of a cesspool.
It can be sealed or with the ability to filter the settled liquid through a natural filter at the bottom of the well.

A sealed cesspool does not allow for soil contamination with wastewater. As the container is filled, human waste is transported to the disposal site by sewerage transport. The volume of such a container is calculated taking into account the planned water consumption and the possibility of frequent pumping out of collected waste.

Sealed cesspools they are equipped either with concrete or using ready-made plastic containers of the required volume. For example, a sewer system in a country house, made with your own hands from concrete rings- Very good choice. The second option is a sewer system at the dacha made from Eurocubes, which you can also build with your own hands.

If Vacation home not used for permanent residence, then you can equip a cesspool with a filter bottom. This is possible in places where the depth groundwater located below 2.5 m from the surface, with sandy or sandy loam type soil.

Otherwise, household wastewater filtered in the cesspool will pollute the aquifer, which can lead to contamination of water sources, reservoirs and generally have a negative impact on the ecology of the surrounding areas.

An open cesspool is equipped with concrete rings or bricks. Filtration occurs after settling and clarification of water through the bottom of the well or perforation in the walls of the pit.

To guarantee the reliability of such a system, a capacity of at least 1 cubic meter per family member should be equipped. Over time, silt and insoluble sediment will settle at the bottom of the pit, resulting in a decrease in the quality and speed of filtration. From time to time the cesspool will have to be cleaned.

Construction of a septic tank

In order for the sewage system to work fully, you can also build a septic tank. Detailed instructions And necessary materials you will find in our.

The choice of sewerage system is a personal matter for the owner country house. But only right choice A system option of one type or another will ensure reliable operation of the cleaning system and a comfortable life.

If water is supplied to the house at the dacha, then, naturally, you need to think about the sewage system. You won't bear it wastewater in buckets. But since country houses are usually used only periodically, in spring-summer or on weekends, then the owners are not interested in installing ultra-modern types of sewage systems, for example, biological treatment stations, etc. They are interested in the most simple options with simple installation and minimal costs. The main thing is that the sewage system is reliable, prevents the penetration of wastewater into fertile soil and does not require special maintenance. Let's figure out how to install the simplest sewer system at my dacha.

Before you start construction works, decide how you intend to remove wastewater from the bathroom, kitchen and toilet - to one place or to different ones. The type of container into which the waste will flow will depend on this. If you approach it rationally, then the option of separate containers is more beneficial for the owners, because water from the kitchen, washing machine, soul, etc. can be released through a cesspool without a bottom into the ground. They do not pose a danger to the soil, because the bacteria have time to process the waste water from washing powders, shampoos, etc.

Another thing is sewage with feces. They cannot be allowed into the ground, because you will create a lot of problems for yourself: you will disrupt the ecology of the earth, spoil the soil in the garden, and the worst thing is that this sewage will easily end up in groundwater and return with it back to the house as drinking water. For wastewater from the toilet, it is necessary to create a sealed cesspool or septic tank. In any case, it is not profitable for you if all the wastewater from the house flows into this pit, because the container will begin to fill up quickly, and you will often have to call a sewer truck or pump it out yourself with a special fecal pump and take it away for disposal.

Important! If the main source of drinking water at the dacha is your own well, then installing any sewer system without a bottom is prohibited!

Sewage for drains from the kitchen and washbasin

The simplest option for local sewerage is for drains from the kitchen and washbasin. It is usually installed if the toilet is made on the street, or the owners have installed a dry closet.

Since household wastewater is not considered harmful, it is enough to remove it through a pipe system to the street, where a container without a bottom with filter material will be buried. Let's look at how this can be done.

Option 1 – from a plastic can

If you live at your dacha only in the warm season, then the easiest way is to install a sewer system from a plastic can and plastic pipes.

From materials you will need an unnecessary old can with a lid with a volume of 45-50 liters, ordinary plastic sewer pipes with Ø50 mm and accessories for them (a pair of elbows, seals, etc.)

Let's look at how to make a sewer system like this in a dacha step by step:

  1. Select a place on the street where you will dig the can so that the distance from it to the point where the sewer pipe exits the foundation is no more than 4 m.
  2. Dig a hole one meter deep so that a can can easily fit there, and dig a ditch half a meter deep from it to the foundation.
  3. Fill the bottom of the pit with layers of sand and expanded clay.
  4. Drill holes at least 1 cm in diameter on the bottom and walls of the can (the larger the better).
  5. In the place where the neck of the can ends, drill a hole for the entrance where the pipe will be inserted (exactly in diameter!).
  6. Place the finished can in the hole.
  7. P Lay the pipes around the house so that the sewer begins under the washbasin, with the top of the riser located at a height of 40 cm from the floor. This is necessary to create a pipe slope of 4% for normal water flow.
  8. Secure the riser to the wall behind the washbasin using a clamp.
  9. When leading pipes through the foundation, it is best to drill a hole below ground level by about 20 cm. Then in winter the pipes will not freeze if water stagnates in them.
  10. Make sure that the pipe at the exit from the house is higher than at the entrance to the can. This way you will avoid stagnation of water in the pipes.
  11. If cutting a hole in the underground does not work, you can make it above ground level. But you will need to wrap the pipe (from the foundation to the entrance to the can) thermal insulation material to protect from frost.
  12. Etc Check the created sewer system for the quality of the water flow and the absence of leaks. To do this, turn on the water in the house and let it flow for a couple of minutes, while you inspect all the elbows at this time and make sure that the water has reached the can.
  13. If everything is in order, you can fill up the trench with the pipe. First, add 15 cm of sand, and then fill it with regular soil. Level the surface with a rake.
  14. The perforated can is filled up to the neck with crushed stone, expanded clay or river sand.
  15. Car tires are placed on top of the filter material. The exact number depends on the depth of the hole. They can fit 2-3. Make sure that the last tire is about halfway out of the soil.
  16. Fill the voids between them and the ground with soil and compact them.
  17. Close the can with a lid, and place a sheet of tin, slate or wooden board on the top cover.

Option 2 - from car tires

A sewer system made from car tires is installed in exactly the same way, only the hole is dug a little deeper (about 2 meters) and instead of a can, it is laid from the bottom to the top of the tire. The sewer pipe cuts in at the level of the second tire from the top.

The pipe crashes into the second one from above car tire without sealing the inlet, because the septic tank itself is also unsealed

Note! To use such a sewer all year round, you need to deepen the trench about a meter for the external outlet of the pipes and pack them in some kind of insulation.

Sealed cesspool from a finished container

For fecal sewage at the dacha, they create the most airtight sewage system possible, because the health of the inhabitants of this area primarily depends on this. The easiest way is to find a larger container. They are sometimes written off by chemical processing plants. However, a barrel from a fuel tank, a milk tanker, or a car with the words “ Live fish" If you cannot find such containers, you can buy ready-made sewer well made of plastic.

If you did not purchase ready-made plastic container, but you used an old one from fuel and lubricants, be sure to treat it outside bitumen mastic to improve waterproofing

Advice! It is best to select a barrel with a volume of 3 cubic meters, since the sewer truck will be able to pump it out at a time.

Selecting a location for the container

Fecal sewerage should not be located near the dacha itself. The shortest distance from the house is 9 meters, and from a well or well – 30 meters. It is more profitable to install it near the edge of the site, so that it is easier for transport to pump out without driving around the entire territory of the dacha.

It is advisable to locate the sewer manhole so that it can be easily reached by a sewer truck along the path on the site, or located immediately near the entrance

Digging a pit

Manually digging a hole for a barrel is quite difficult, especially if the groundwater is located high. Then the water will come faster than you dig. Order an excavator for these purposes. The size of the pit should be such that the barrel fits freely, and only the inlet hole of the hatch remains on the surface of the ground. At the same time, a slight slope towards the hatch must be made at the bottom so that solid particles settle in this direction. Then it is easier for the hose of the sewer truck to grab them.

Along with the hole, a trench is dug for laying external sewer pipes. Be sure to dig a trench so that there are no bends, because feces can get stuck in places where there are bends and form plugs. If it doesn’t work without turning, then the bending angle should not be more than 45˚.

Installing the container

They lower the barrel into the hole with the help of a crane, and if there is none, they call on the men they know for help and, like barge haulers on the Volga, tighten it with ropes. The hole for the sewer pipe inlet can be cut at the top while the barrel is not tightened, or after it is installed in the hole.

The container is installed in the pit not directly, but with slight slope towards the hatch to make it easier to pump out solid particles from the bottom

Note. If you are not installing a septic tank, but some kind of barrel, then you need to coat the outside of it with bitumen mastic or any other composition that is usually used to treat the bottoms of cars.

Pipe laying

They begin to lay pipes from the tank to the house, maintaining a slope of 4˚, and then carry out internal sewerage wiring. When the external pipes are installed, the trench is backfilled. The voids around the container are filled with soil, compacting it. A reinforced concrete slab is placed on top, which will prevent the barrel from being pushed out of the frozen soil in winter. Fill the container around the top hole concrete blind area and install a sewer hatch in it.

The entire cesspool is hidden underground, and only the lid remains on the surface sewer hatch, through which wastewater will be pumped

A more complicated option - installing a septic tank

When the local sewage system for the dacha is created, do not be too lazy to make an outdoor toilet with your own hands. If you have large companies in the summer, then it is better to send them there when needed, thereby saving on capacity resources.

As a rule, simply running water into a country house or country house is not enough. Water will definitely need to be disposed of somewhere after use. Carrying it out in buckets is yesterday, it’s hard and pointless. Therefore, it will be necessary to build at least a basic sewer system. This can be done by running a pipe into their home and then draining the water into a small hole. But this option is not suitable for everyone, since it is unaesthetic, and the unpleasant smell from this pit or puddle will scare away anyone. But don’t despair: you can make a decent sewer system with water drainage on your own, and it’s not as difficult as it seems.

Materials for production:

The barrel is old (plastic or metal);
- Sewer pipes (preferably PVC 110 mm, length from 6 m)
- Tee;
- Retraction;
- Crushed stone of medium fraction (0.5 cubic meters);
- Shovel;
- Free time (several hours).

Sewer manufacturing process

First of all, you need to decide on the location where the drainage well will be located. It is desirable that it be located at a distance of at least 5 m from the house, no closer than 20-25 m from a well or well, and below them in terms of groundwater flow. A hole is dug with a diameter that exceeds the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m. The diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height - 0.9 m, volume - 0.2 cubic meters, depth - from 1.5 m.




Next, you will need to make holes in the walls of the barrel. If the barrel is metal, this is done using a grinder; if it is plastic, use a wood saw with fine teeth. Not far from the bottom of the barrel, a hole is made in the wall for the incoming sewer pipe. Having poured at least 20 cm of crushed stone into the bottom of the pit, place the barrel upside down. The hole for the pipe should be directed towards the house.


All that remains is to dig a trench for the sewer pipe and bring it to to the right place. When laying the pipe, the slope towards the barrel must be at least 3 mm per 1 m. The pipe is brought into the house under the foundation or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate it; it will be warmed by the waters flowing through it. A tee is placed not far from the barrel so that a small piece of pipe extends above the surface of the ground. This is necessary so that the air circulates inside the barrel and leaves the house when the sewer is filled, that is, so that it does not go out of the barrel into the house.

The pipe is inserted into the barrel through a special hole. The gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit is completely filled with crushed stone to the height of the barrel. A material that is not subject to rotting, such as a piece of old slate, is placed at the bottom of the barrel. After this, the hole and trench are filled with soil and thoroughly compacted. To finally install sewerage into the house, a hole is made in the floor or wall. A special plastic mushroom is put on a piece of pipe that is brought to the surface of the earth near the buried barrel.

Some nuances

The design is intended exclusively for draining water, and not for fecal waste, since it is not possible to clean it. Sewage of this type - perfect option for bath or kitchen drains. Drainage wells and septic tanks are constructed similarly.

The microclimate of bacteria processing wastewater largely depends on the depth of the pit. The ideal depth is calculated using the following formula: the height of the barrel and crushed stone cushion is added to the freezing depth of the soil. For the Leningrad region, this value is: 1.2 m + 0.9 m + 0.2 m, that is, only 2.3 m. However, digging a hole of such depth is difficult, and it is not necessary. The barrel, like the pipe, is heated by water effluent.

When clay soil where the sewer system is installed, water will leave the barrel more slowly, so the design can be improved. An additional or drainage pipe is laid, capable of discharging water at the border of the site into the drainage ditch. It can also end in a dead end and lead nowhere. The main task of such a pipe is to drain excess water and increase the area of ​​water absorption into the soil.


After laying it on a crushed stone cushion in a trench, the pipe is covered with crushed stone, and then with soil. The trench is somewhat deeper compared to the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. To improve water flow, holes are made in the lower part of the sewer pipe. It turns out to be similar drainage pipe, but if the pipe is discharged into a drainage ditch, this will not be required.

In a word, this sewer - best option, suitable for water drains in any country house.

Galina

Who would refuse country house in the village? Nature, Fresh air, natural products and, if possible, the amenities to which we are so accustomed - water supply and sewerage.

But not in every rural areas there is such a service. Houses that have running water do not always have sewerage installed.

Sewerage at the dacha with your own hands is a labor-intensive task, but necessary. It is feasible for anyone who has experience in construction work.

Before you learn how to make a sewer system in your country house, you should understand the intricacies in order to avoid mistakes.

Preparatory work

Device sewer system is a complex mechanism that consists of separate parts:

  1. Internal sewerage is represented by a system of pipes inside the building. Its function: to remove waste water from plumbing fixtures to the external sewer system.
  2. External sewerage is a system of pipes that drain dirty water away from the building.
  3. A treatment or storage facility where wastewater is treated or stored for subsequent removal.

Sewage installation begins with design detailed diagram. It will help you figure out what materials to buy and how much work needs to be done.

The sewerage diagram at the dacha reflects:

  • Domestic wastewater sources. This includes a bath, shower, sauna, and sink.
  • Method of connecting and laying pipes inside a building: hidden in the wall or under the cladding, brought out.
  • The place in the house where the sewage system is discharged to the street;
  • The trajectory of the external sewerage system;
  • Place of installation of the sewer. The minimum distance from the house is 5 meters, from a source of natural water supply – 30 m, from trees and bushes – 3 m;
  • Collector type (biological treatment plant, drain hole, septic tank).

When drawing up a diagram, you should take into account a number of factors that affect the type and design of the sewer system:

  1. depth of groundwater;
  2. the depth at which the ground freezes in winter;
  3. soil type and condition;
  4. landscape near the house;
  5. water supply on site.

Consult survey documents for soil information. If there are none, ask your neighbors or indigenous people.

The choice of collector depends on the data you receive and the type of soil. If sand predominates in it, then the ground easily allows runoff to pass through. Getting into groundwater, they pollute the environment. Therefore, it is better to use a collector with a bottom.

A cesspool without a bottom is not suitable for soil with a high concentration of clay. The rock does not conduct moisture well, which leads to rapid silting of the sewer.

Installation of sewer pipes is carried out below the freezing level of the soil. Otherwise, they will freeze and lead to breakdown of the drain system.

When developing a sewerage scheme, take into account that the water supply does not intersect with sewer pipes.

Arrangement of internal sewerage

Guided by the developed scheme, buy building material. As for pipes, choose products at your discretion:

  1. PVC pipes. They are resistant to chemicals, do not rust, do not overgrow, and do not create obstacles to the movement of wastewater. Prices for the material are “reasonable”.
  2. Cast iron pipes. They are distinguished by strength and durability. Disadvantages include: weight, complex installation, price.
  3. Ceramic pipes. This the best option For internal sewerage. The only drawback– price.

Installation of sewage system inside the house begins with installation central riser with a radius of 5.5 cm at a distance of 4 meters from the windows. After this, the water supply is laid horizontally.

When installing pipes, try not to make straight turns, as this will complicate the transportation of waste water. If this cannot be avoided, then it is better to use 2 corner elements of 45 degrees.

To connect a sink and bathtub, a pipe with a diameter of 5 cm is sufficient. To connect a toilet, choose a product with a diameter of 10 cm.

Do-it-yourself sewerage in a dacha involves a hole in the foundation of the house, which serves to lead the drainage system to the street.

At the output it is necessary to install check valve, which prevents waste water from returning back.

Which sewer system to choose: common or separate?

At the beginning of construction, it is important to decide where wastewater from the kitchen, bath and toilet will be discharged: into one collector or into different ones.

As practice shows, it is economically profitable to make separate sewers. Waste water from the kitchen and bathroom is not considered hazardous to environment. Therefore, a cesspool without a bottom is suitable for it.

A sealed cesspool or septic tank is made for wastewater from the toilet.

One pit for drainage will be expensive. The fact is that it fills up quickly and requires regular pumping.

Types of sewer system

The classification of sewer systems is based on the type of sewage facility:

  1. simple drainage pit;
  2. septic tank;
  3. local sewage treatment plants.

The choice of sewer type depends on the frequency of use, the number of family members, the possibility of frequent pumping of wastewater, whether there is a toilet in the house or on the street, and other factors.

Simple drainage pit

This type of sewer system is easy to install and does not require regular pumping. It serves to remove wastewater from the kitchen and bath.

These drains are not dangerous to humans and nature, so the sewage system is considered simple: a pipeline and a buried structure without a bottom with a filter.

The principle of operation of such a sewage system is as follows: penetrating with water, large particles are retained by the filter, and the water is absorbed into the soil and again enters our water supply.

Making a cesspool is not difficult. Brickwork or reinforced concrete is used for construction.

Sewage installation is carried out in stages:

  1. Select a location on the site for the pit. Be guided by the fact that the distance from the pit to the house is 4 meters. Considering that the structure is periodically cleaned of dirt and silt, place the pit in a place convenient for these purposes.
  2. Dig a hole on the site for the drainage structure and from it a ditch 0.5 meters deep to the foundation of the house.
  3. Install and route the pipeline so that the pipe at the exit from the house is higher than at the entrance to the drainage structure.
  4. At the bottom of the pit, make a filter in the form of a two-layer embankment of sand and expanded clay.
  5. Check how the sewer works. Turn on the water and watch for 5 minutes to see if there are any leaks.
  6. Fill the trench 150 mm with sand and then with soil. Lay down the turf.
  7. Close the drainage structure with a lid.

This sewer system does not require constant maintenance. But during spring floods, “keep your eyes open.” There is a risk that flooding will occur due to rising groundwater levels. In this case, the system requires immediate pumping.

Septic tank

This device is used to collect and purify waste water. It happens different types depending on the design, cleaning method and material. Wastewater treatment in the facility is carried out through soil filtration and anaerobic bacteria.

You can buy a septic tank in a store building materials or save money and do it yourself. The downside of a drainage facility is the need for regular pumping.

Before laying a pipeline for drains on the site, decide whether it will be brick, reinforced concrete, plastic or metal containers.

Sometimes a sealed container is installed on the site in which wastewater accumulates. Such a system requires regular pumping, which causes a lot of trouble.

To carry out pumping, sewage disposal equipment is called in, which costs a lot of money. More thrifty and practical owners summer cottages special pumps are used for pumping.

Diagram of the components of a sewage disposal machine

Most convenient option A collector with two chambers connected to each other by a pipe is considered. It does not require too frequent pumping, since part of the purified wastewater passes from one chamber to another, where it passes through the filter and is absorbed into the soil.

The service life of the device directly depends on the quality of these cameras. They are subject to the following requirements:

  • Tightness;
  • Resistance to aggressive substances;
  • Resistant to temperature changes and mechanical stress.

DIY septic tank

To build a septic tank, carry out installation according to the instructions:

  1. Dig a pit. If the territory has a natural water supply in the form of a well, then it would be correct to dig a hole at a distance of 30 meters from it.
  2. Make formwork by dividing the pit into 2 unequal parts. ¾ of the structure is located in the settling tank, where wastewater is treated.
  3. Concrete the base of the larger compartment;
  4. Make the bottom of the smaller compartment deeper and fill it with crushed stone;
  5. By using reinforcing mesh concrete the septic tank;
  6. Make 2 holes for the drain overflow pipe between the chambers and for the outlet of the sewer pipe.
  7. Close the septic tank with a lid and install a vent pipe.

When installing a sewer system, it is important to install the pipeline correctly. In demand plastic pipes. To prevent water from stagnating and destroying the septic tank and drainage pipes, lay the pipes at a slight slope towards the drainage structure.

It is recommended to install the sewer line along a flat path, avoiding turns. Otherwise, you should consider installing inspection wells. They will allow you to independently clean the system if blockages occur.

Treatment stations

If you have large sum money, then you don’t have to produce it. On the market you can find models of treatment plants for every taste.

With the purchase of this building you will make your life easier. You will not have a headache about sewerage repairs, pumping out wastewater and other issues. The experts will arrive, install the station, and you can safely use this result.

You can create an autonomous sewer system in your dacha yourself in various ways. The simple cesspool, which our ancestors successfully used, is being replaced by various septic tanks and even special local treatment plants, ready to compete with the efficiency of industrial equipment large cities. Each waste disposal method has certain pros and cons. Let's look at which ones and decide what exactly to build on our site.

What needs to be done before choosing a structure?

In order for the country sewer system to be arranged correctly, you must first draw up a diagram of the location of all its elements. These are three main components:

  • the internal part of the system, which is located in the house and combines all plumbing fixtures;
  • a system of sewer pipes through which wastewater is removed from the house;
  • wastewater treatment plants, where wastewater is accumulated for further removal or processed and released into the soil.

If there is a separate toilet, bathhouse or other structure on the site, from which it is also necessary to remove wastewater, it is necessary to decide whether this building will be connected to the sewer system of the house or not. The first option is considered more preferable, but it is not always possible. Any decision must be reflected on a diagram of the site’s sewer system.

When drafting a diagram there are a number of things to consider: important factors, such as:

  • condition and type of soil;
  • depth of soil freezing in winter;
  • depth of groundwater;
  • location of drinking water sources, etc.

All this information can be obtained from specialized organizations or by seeking advice from your closest neighbors. At the same time, it would not hurt to find out what type of sewage system is organized in the neighboring areas and how effective it turned out to be during operation.

You should definitely pay attention to the type of soil when choosing treatment facilities. Lungs sandy soils quickly absorb moisture, which can lead to groundwater contamination when wastewater enters the soil. But the heavy ones clay soils absorb moisture much more slowly, this often causes silting of treatment facilities, such as a cesspool without a bottom, etc.

The depth of the trench for the pipes should be greater than the freezing depth of the soil. It is necessary to take into account the position of the aquifer when selecting treatment facilities. They must be located at a certain distance from the well or well. The intersection of sewer lines and the water supply system of the house should not be allowed.

If the site provides for the creation of a washbasin on the street, this element does not have to be connected to the general house sewer. It is enough to divert the wastewater from the washbasin into a separate drainage well - a small hole filled with sand, crushed stone, gravel, etc. This will be enough to clean a small amount of soapy water.

Considering these nuances, it is easy to understand that the answer to the question of what type of sewage system is best to equip cannot be unambiguous. The main difference is the choice of type of treatment plant. The most commonly used options are cesspools, septic tanks and local treatment stations.

Option #1 - cesspool

Cesspools are the simplest type local sewerage for the dacha. This method of recycling human waste has been known for a long time, but still remains relevant. Usually a cesspool is arranged with or without a bottom.

The walls of a cesspool for a summer residence can be made from brickwork. It is important to take care of proper waterproofing of the treatment plant.

A structure with a bottom is a pit, the walls and bottom of which are insulated with a monolithic layer of concrete, brickwork, concrete rings and other structures or containers that prevent runoff from entering the ground.

When constructing a cesspool without a bottom, instead of concrete screed a layer of drainage material is laid below: crushed stone, sand, broken brick, etc. In this case, the wastewater is purified and partially enters the ground.

Among the advantages of a cesspool are the ease of creating a structure and the absence of the need to use special equipment. However, the disadvantages of this ancient type of treatment plant make it necessary to look for an acceptable alternative.

Most quick way making a cesspool consists of using ready-made concrete rings. Install on top concrete floor and a specially selected hatch that will protect drains from freezing and the air from unpleasant odors

The fact is that the requirements for creating a cesspool are quite serious. hygienic requirements. For example, the volume of wastewater in a house should not exceed one cubic meter per day. It has important groundwater level, including during spring floods, to avoid flooding of the cesspool and soil contamination. Finally, accumulated waste must be removed regularly, which means additional costs for the services of sewer trucks.

Option #2 - installing a septic tank

Various types of septic tanks in dachas are becoming more and more popular. These are treatment facilities that consist of several interconnected chambers. Preparations of anaerobic bacteria are added to wastewater, which slowly process the waste. Purified water is filtered and released into the soil. As a result, the need for waste removal is minimized or completely eliminated.

The main thing in a septic tank is to choose the right container. It must be completely sealed and resistant to mechanical damage, aggressive substances, seasonal temperature changes and other similar factors. If these conditions are met, you can safely use any suitable size as a container for a septic tank. plastic tank. You can also choose a ready-made industrial model of a septic tank tank. This option will cost a little more, but it is a more reliable and simpler solution in terms of labor costs.

You can also create a country sewer system of this type with your own hands, but you will have to use not one, but two cesspools. The first hole should be made with a concrete bottom, and a drainage layer should be placed in the second. The containers are connected by an inclined pipe - an overflow. The waste flows into the first pit, where solid waste accumulates, and the liquid waste, reaching the overflow, enters the second container. Here they pass through the filter and enter the soil. It is necessary to periodically remove waste from the first section of the septic tank, but this is done much less frequently than when using a conventional cesspool.

Modern septic tanks allow you to minimize the need to remove accumulated wastewater or completely get rid of this problem. It is important to choose the right container for the septic tank

If as a sewer on summer cottage decided to use a septic tank, it should be remembered that anaerobic bacteria that process waste may be sensitive to some chemicals, for example, to chlorine. You'll have to be more careful when choosing household chemicals for the dacha.

Option #3 - local treatment stations

Ready-made cleaning stations offered by manufacturers practically do not cause any problems for the dacha owner. All he has to do is select suitable model station, pay for it and order installation. Unfortunately, you won’t be able to save money on installing the device, since the preparation and launch of the cleaning station should be carried out exclusively by specialists.

Modern local treatment stations are expensive, but different high efficiency when removing and processing even large quantities of wastewater

The main disadvantage of local treatment stations, abbreviated as VOCs, is the high price. This expensive purchase will be justified for a solid, large country cottage. And in a small area, less expensive options for installing a sewer system in the country will be more acceptable.

Maintenance of VOCs is carried out very rarely and requires minimal effort. All operations can be entrusted to employees of the company that installed the structure.

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