On fresh air Not only is your appetite stronger, but food is digested much better. IN warm weather I don’t really want to sit indoors. Preserving for the winter is also easier to do outside. In the article we will tell you how to build a summer kitchen in your country house with your own hands, we will demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photos and video instructions.
Choosing a type
All types of summer kitchens can be classified into two categories:
- open;
- closed.
Enclosed kitchens resemble a small structure, similar to a house, which often does not have much insulation. The advantage of this solution will be protection from insects, best protection from bad weather, as well as from wind. Option open kitchen on one or more sides can be protected with a fabric, wooden or other wall. The advantage of such a solution will be greater unity with nature. Among the open types of buildings there are options:
- With barbecue. In this case, you have the advantage of cooking favorite dish on an open fire. Barbecue will be available in any weather. If you additionally install an oven, then you can please your friends with pizza.
- With a gazebo or pergola. It's nice to sit among the greenery. This is exactly the solution in which the entire structure will eventually be shrouded in grapes, ivy or other climbing plants.
- Shed adjacent to the house. The easiest way to build. Requires the least investment. But there is negative point. When cooking, all the steam and smoke will go towards the house. This can lead to damage to walls or other finishing materials.
Preparation stages
After you have chosen one of possible options, it's time to create a small project.
- We choose a location. It’s good when it is possible to place the kitchen in a cozy garden, where a pleasant atmosphere of tranquility reigns. At this stage, it is necessary to take into account the proximity of various communications. They will definitely be needed. For electrical appliances Wiring will be required. When preparing food, you cannot do without water and you need to put it somewhere afterwards. Do not place the structure close to driveways and roads. Then your meal will not be spoiled unpleasant odors. If there is a toilet outside, it is better to leave it as far away as possible.
- We dwell on the material for construction. If planned closed kitchen, then you can approach it as a frame building, in which case you will need wood. A good option the structure will be made of foam blocks or bricks. The open one will most likely be made of wood, or one or two of its walls will be made of the material that was listed earlier.
- We decide on the roof. Would look great on an open building soft tiles, but this is a rather costly solution, although it cannot be ruled out, because the roof area will be small. A good option would be metal tiles or corrugated sheets. Perhaps, while waiting your turn, you have sheets of slate or ondulin - they will also do.
- The project should also take into account what equipment you plan to purchase for the summer kitchen.
Foundation
Summer cuisine usually thought of as lightweight design. This means that the foundation can immediately act as a floor, and perhaps no pouring will be required at all.
- First you need to clear the selected area of all debris and vegetation.
- A small layer of top soil is removed.
- One of the corners of the future building is marked with a wooden peg or metal rod. Next, three more elements are installed. To position them correctly, it is necessary to measure the diagonals for identity. A fishing line or strong twine is stretched between them, which will serve as a guide.
If the building consists of a canopy, then after these steps you can proceed as follows:
- The entire perimeter of the marked area is excavated to a depth of 30 cm.
- The bottom is leveled and compacted.
- Sand is poured inside in a layer of 10–15 cm. It is also leveled and compacted well.
- The remaining space is filled with screenings and final leveling is performed.
- Next, paving or other tiles intended for the street are laid on our “pie”, which has been prepared. This can be done using dry cement mortar, which, after pouring with water, will fix the entire base well.
- Holes are dug at four corners; their depth should be at least 50 cm. Formwork is installed inside. A sheathing is made from reinforcement, which will serve as the basis reinforced concrete structure. It is placed inside and filled with solution. Using a vibrator, the entire mixture is compacted. While the concrete has not yet hardened, two metal plates are inserted into the middle, to which we can attach wooden poles, which will support the walls and roof.
This base option will be relevant when the soil is quite dense. In cases where groundwater may come very close to the surface or displacement of the top layer is noticed, it is necessary to provide a more solid base. Also, if you plan to add a stove or barbecue to such a foundation, then you will need to lay separate concrete supports for them.
In order to make a foundation slab, we will need to take the first three steps from the previous instructions. Next we proceed to the following:
- We are preparing 8 pieces of reinforcing bars. Four of them should be 10 cm shorter than one of the sides of the future structure, 4 others should be 10 cm shorter than the other. If the building is square, then they will all be the same size.
- We lay four of them in the shape of our future structure and secure them together. Then we tie longitudinal and transverse jumpers every 40 cm. In the same way we prepare the second grid. We connect the two gratings with jumpers to such a height that the future slab rises above the surface by at least 5 cm.
- We lower the entire structure into the middle of the dug hole, install the formwork and fill it with concrete. We ram it using a vibrator. We level it with slats and let it sit for several weeks.
- Metal plates can be placed in fresh concrete along the perimeter in meter increments the width of the future timber for the walls. Or this can be done only in the corners.
It is very important that the floor is higher than the surface of the ground. Thanks to this, it will not numb rainwater. It's also good to do slight slope floor so that precipitation carried by the wind can flow freely into the drainage or simply through the door.
In cases where you plan to build an enclosed kitchen made of brick or foam block, this foundation option may be sufficient. Also for these needs, you can build a shallow strip or columnar foundation. In this case, such large-scale excavation is not carried out.
- A trench is dug to a depth of 50 cm along the entire perimeter of the future kitchen. The width will depend on the thickness of the walls. In any case, the foundation should be 10–15 cm wider.
- A layer of sand is poured onto the bottom, which is leveled and spilled with water.
- A metal lattice base is made according to the principle as in the previous instructions. She fits into the trench.
- The formwork is installed so that the future foundation rises 20–30 cm above the ground surface.
- Fill in cement mortar, tamp and level it. Let it sit for 2-3 weeks.
The supply of all communications must be done in parallel with laying the foundation, so that later you do not have to drill holes in it or dig under it. To prevent the pipes from becoming clogged with solution, they must be closed in advance using fabric and plastic oilcloth.
Open kitchen
This option can be erected most quickly. We have already laid the foundation and support for the supports. If you plan to have the kitchen closed on one or both sides by walls made of brick or other material, then the first thing you need to do is start building these partitions.
- At the corners of future walls we dig metal into the ground square pipe or profile size 50×50 mm. We set it according to level. We do this so that the planks are close to the masonry. They will serve as our guide.
- We stretch the fishing line between them. We raise it to the height of the first row of bricks that will be laid. We set it according to level.
- Cooking cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3. This will be quite sufficient for our purposes.
- We carry out the laying, focusing on the stretched fishing line, and also periodically double-check ourselves with the level.
- As soon as the first row is completed, we raise the line for the next one and so on until the very end.
- To make the structure more stable, reinforcing mesh can be placed in the seams.
If you are not planning on having walls of this nature, then the process will be much easier.
- We screw a beam that will serve as a support to the metal plates that we laid during the manufacture of the foundation. When the entire structure is of great length, then it is necessary to foresee in advance the need to install 3-4 pillars on one side. Their length should be equal to the height of our building, and the dimensions of the sides should be 15x15 cm or 15x10 cm.
- We level them so that they are strictly vertical. The beams of one wall must be longer so that we can organize the roof slope.
- We immediately strengthen our posts using the top strapping. It can be made from the same logs. We fix it using metal corners.
- To give greater stability to the entire structure, you can install two jibs near each post. They can be secured to the support using self-tapping screws, and to the base with an anchor bolt.
- We are installing beams for our future roof. In order for them to hold better in the places where they adjoin the harness, it is better to make cuts. We fix it with metal corners.
- We make the sheathing for the flooring, as recommended by the manufacturer. We lay the roofing material.
- To create more coziness, one side (or more) can be sewn up using wooden lining or house block. On the other, make a wooden lattice. You can arrange supports for climbing green plants.
In the case when it is planned to build a pergola, after laying ceiling beams you don't need to do anything else. They can be coated with stain or varnish. Then the plants will do their job themselves, creating shade when they are fully grown.
Closed kitchen
At the design stage, it may have been decided to build walls from foam blocks or bricks, then this can be done according to the principle of installing vertical landmarks, which was discussed above. The thickness of the walls may not be too large. In some cases, laying half a brick is allowed. But always consider the weight of the future roof. In the future, the outside of the building can be covered with siding or a block house. For interior decoration A block house, lining or other material that will be resistant to frost is also suitable, because it is unlikely that anyone will constantly heat the room on purpose in the winter.
A beam is laid on the walls, which will act as a mauerlat. Its size can be 10x15 cm. It is secured using anchor bolts or studs, which must be walled up during the construction of the walls. It is necessary to lay waterproofing under it in the form of roofing material or bikrost. A rafter system is installed on the logs. It can be for both gable and pitched roof(for this option it will be enough to make one wall higher than the other, then simply install beams between them). The sheathing is mounted on the beams and the roofing is laid. The ceiling is hemmed from the inside.
You can go simpler and stop at frame version. For it we will need beams of the same size as for the vertical posts from the instructions for an open kitchen. From these we make the foundation. We lay them along the perimeter of our foundation on two layers of roofing material or bikrost, which will serve as waterproofing. We make a dressing between them. To do this, at the edge of each log there is a recess half the depth and a width equal to the width of the log. Checking the diagonals. We fix them together using self-tapping screws and internal metal corners. Next, we fix it to pre-prepared plates or anchors to the foundation.
We mount corner support pillars from the same timber. In increments of 60 cm, we install additional vertical supports from boards measuring 10x5 cm. For greater rigidity, we screw the jibs for each main support. We carry out the top trim and install the rafter system for the future roof. We do this by analogy with the open kitchen option.
Finish line
Even if our kitchen is planned to have a barbecue or stove, this does not exclude the presence of gas or electric stove, which are much more convenient to use. It is necessary to take care of the installation of the sink, mixer, as well as a stand for dishes on which they will dry. It would be good if there was a cabinet in which you could hide cutlery and pots. You need to take care of the dining table, as well as comfortable furniture on which you can relax. For greater comfort, it is better to provide basic and decorative lighting.
For an open kitchen project, it is best to ensure that everything lighting, preferably with IP68 protection. In this case, you won’t have to worry about any elements being damaged by rainwater.
Don't approach your outdoor kitchen project in a casual way. Let it be in some sense design solution. After all, it will serve not only as a place to eat, but also as a recreation area with family and friends.
In the warm season, especially during the conservation period, the presence of a summer kitchen greatly simplifies the cooking process and makes it more enjoyable. It is not necessary to hire specialists for construction - all stages can be completed independently. If you choose the right materials, a summer kitchen will not cost too much, which is beneficial for the budget-conscious owner. great importance.
Types of summer kitchens
Summer kitchens can have closed and open design. Both types are widely used in country houses and suburban areas. To decide which type to choose, you should study all the advantages and disadvantages of such buildings.
Closed kitchen
This kitchen has windows, doors and a roof, just like a full-fledged house. There are options combined with a bathhouse or summer shower, cellar, workshop, with attached veranda for eating and resting. Usually, lightweight materials are chosen for construction and the building is not insulated, so the room is not used in winter. At the same time, there are kitchens made of brick and foam blocks, which are more durable and can be insulated if necessary.
Advantages of closed structures:
- a closed kitchen requires more materials and therefore costs more;
- the project will require additional calculations;
- the construction process is more labor-intensive and time-consuming.
This option is more suitable for country houses where the owners live permanently. But in a dacha that is empty in winter, building a closed kitchen is not always justified.
Open kitchens are built according to the principle: a concrete or tiled base, support pillars around the perimeter, and a canopy roof. A stove, a kitchen table, and benches are installed under the canopy. Sometimes the kitchen is made without a canopy if it is used exclusively for cooking on vacation on clear days. Construction material For an open kitchen, wood, brick, and natural stone are most often used.
Summer kitchen - project with barbecue Advantages:
- the room cannot be used during the cold period;
- no protection from wind and insects;
- poor protection from rain and dampness;
- You cannot leave food.
- all furniture that will be there must be hidden for the winter in closed, dry rooms, otherwise it will quickly rot.
Where to build
The location of the kitchen is of great importance. Khozdvor, and cesspools should be as far away as possible, but communications, on the contrary, are closer. You will have to supply water to the kitchen and connect electricity, so it is best if the site for construction is near the house. You cannot choose a place in a low place, otherwise the floor will become damp. A closed kitchen can be attached to the house, but an open kitchen is better placed in the garden or near a pond, away from the road.
Construction of an open kitchen
There are many options for building an open kitchen, but the main stages are always the same: marking and preparing the site, laying out the foundation, installing load-bearing supports, installing the roof and interior design of the room.
To work you will need:
- level;
- shovel;
- pegs and twine;
- tape measure; sand and crushed stone;
- cement mortar;
- pieces of reinforcement;
- timber 150x150 mm;
- Circular Saw;
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- hammer and nails;
- metal squares;
- self-tapping screws;
- boards 25 mm thick;
- primer.
Step 1. Marking
The selected area is cleared of all excess and the turf is removed. They determine one of the corners of the building and drive a peg into the ground, and then measure the width and length of the area for the kitchen from it. Beacon pegs are placed in each corner and string is pulled between them. Check the correctness of the markings along the diagonals - they must be the same length. After this, soil is selected inside the marking to a depth of 15-20 cm, leveled and compacted.
Step 2. Pouring the foundation
The bottom of the pit is filled up even layer sand, level, compact well. If necessary, communication pipes are laid along the bottom and crushed stone is poured on top. A reinforcing mesh is laid, metal rods 20 cm high are inserted into the corners of the site, and formwork made of boards is installed around the perimeter. The height of the formwork above the ground surface should be about 10 cm; using the level on inside the formwork marks the line for pouring the mortar so that the site is level. Knead and pour it into the formwork, following the markings. Communication pipes are closed with plugs, otherwise the solution may get inside. The surface is leveled according to the rule, after which the foundation is left until completely dry.
Also, the foundation for the kitchen can be made of a columnar type using bricks. The marking is carried out similarly to a monolithic foundation, after which they dig out square shape pits up to 50 cm deep. The bottom of the pits is filled with sand and compacted, then a metal rod is inserted, around which brickwork is made. The height of the foundation columns is checked by level. If necessary, the columns are leveled with an additional layer of cement.
A lower frame made of timber will be attached to the reinforcement bars, which is joined using the “claw” method. The timber is laid on roofing felt, previously glued with bitumen to each post. Subfloor logs made of edged boards.
Step 3. Installation of load-bearing supports
At the lower ends of the beam, holes are drilled for reinforcing bars protruding from the foundation. The front posts are made 20 cm higher than the rear ones to make it easier to mount the canopy. The beams are installed at the corners of the site, leveled, and then fixed to the base with metal plates on anchor bolts. Along the upper edge, the pillars are connected with timber strapping, and horizontal jumpers are mounted at a height of 70-80 cm from the floor.
Table. Roof slope depending on covering
| Roof material | Weight sq. m (without base), kg | Approximate durability, years | Roof slope, degrees |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sheet black steel | 3-5 | 20-25 | 16-30 |
| Cink Steel | 3,5-6 | 30-40 | 16-30 |
| Ruberoid | 4-13 | 13-15 | 4-27 |
| Roof tiles | 40-50 | 60 or more | 30-45 |
| Asbestos cement | 14-20 | 40-45 | 27-50 |
Step 4. Installation of the canopy
TO top harness Primed boards are nailed along the width of the structure every 50 cm. The internal joints must be reinforced with metal angles so that the canopy does not fall apart in strong winds. Waterproofing material is laid on top of the boards, thin slats are stuffed and sheets of slate or
Step 5. Floor installation
The most optimal solution There will be tiling. It is not afraid of moisture, is easily cleaned of dirt, and easily tolerates temperature changes. Wood flooring in an open kitchen it quickly becomes unusable under the influence of atmospheric moisture, dries out from the sun, is damaged by insects, and therefore requires regular maintenance. So, take the tiles, tile adhesive, notched trowel and begin tiling the floor. Lay the tiles from the corner: apply a little mortar to the back surface, apply it to the floor and level it.
In the photo - porcelain tiles for the street To make the seams as even as possible, special plastic crosses are used, which are inserted at the joints. Laying is constantly monitored by level, otherwise the coating will be uneven. If you plan to install a barbecue in the kitchen, the floor underneath does not need to be tiled. After completion of the work, the seams are cleaned of dust and mortar residues, and then rubbed with a special mixture.
Step 6. Arranging the kitchen
For greater comfort, the space between the floor and the horizontal lintels can be sheathed with boards or covered with wooden figured bars, leaving it free doorway. A stove, benches and a table are installed, electricity and water are supplied. In conclusion wooden surfaces covered with stain and varnish or painted, protecting the wood from environmental influences.
Prices for various types of construction boards
Construction boards
Construction of a closed kitchen
Indoor kitchens are also very diverse, but the most convenient and easy to implement is frame construction from timber to columnar foundation. For cladding, it is recommended to use lining or OSB boards.
During the work you will need:
- Circular Saw;
- jigsaw;
- drill and screwdriver;
- building level;
- shovel;
- hammer;
- roulette;
- dry planed timber 100x100 mm;
- boards 25 mm thick;
- long cord and pegs for beacons;
- roofing felt;
- cement mortar;
- construction studs;
- working off;
- nails and screws;
- sand.
Step 1. Marking the area
The selected area must be prepared: level the hills, remove tall grass, stones, and debris. Now you need to determine where the facade line will be located and place 2 beacons on it. The distance between the pegs is equal to the length of the facade. Perpendicular to this line, measure the length of the side walls from each beacon and also place marks. A cord is pulled between the beacons, and the diagonals are measured in the resulting rectangle. If they are equal, the marking is done correctly. In the center of each side of the future kitchen and at the intersection of the diagonals, you also need to drive in pegs - these are marks for intermediate posts.
Step 2. Preparing the foundation
Using a shovel, dig holes in places marked with pegs to a depth of 40 cm; The dimensions of the pit should correspond to two cinder blocks laid flat. The walls and bottom of the pits are leveled, a 10 cm layer of sand is filled in and compacted. 2 lower cinder blocks are laid on the sand, covered with mortar, a construction pin is inserted in the center so that it rises above the ground surface by about 25-30 cm. Then the second row of cinder blocks is placed on top across the first, mortar again and the third row. Finished pillars must have the same height and be located on the same level.
Step 3. Installation of the bottom trim
The lower trim consists of two rows of timber, knocked together. All beams are generously coated with waste oil, paying special attention to the cuts, and then dried. In the beams of the bottom row you need to make holes for the studs, and in the top row you need to cut grooves for the floor crossbars. The depth of the grooves corresponds to half the thickness of the beam, and the width is equal to the thickness of the crossbar.
Pieces of roofing felt are placed on top of the pillars, sliding them directly onto the studs. The lower beams are applied to the posts, the location of the studs is marked, and holes of the appropriate diameter are drilled. Next, lay them on the foundation, thread the studs into the holes and tighten the nuts. The ends of the studs should not protrude above the surface of the timber; on the contrary, it is better when they are slightly recessed into the wood. Check the piping with a level along the entire perimeter to avoid distortions. Now you need to lay the top row of beams, nail them, and insert the floor beams into the grooves. For greater reliability, it is better to reinforce internal joints with metal plates with screws.
Step 4. Summer kitchen - log house
This summer kitchen has a beautiful appearance, is environmentally friendly and retains heat well inside the room. However, it is extremely important to treat the material with a fire-retardant impregnation to prevent the wood from being damaged by insects.
It is worth remembering that the log house will shrink over several years, so it is not recommended to additionally sheath the walls of the summer kitchen.
To ensure that the walls inside the room are even, each log along its entire length is hewn with a plane or grinder. At the ends of the logs, grooves are cut for joining (the “paw” method). This method was not chosen by chance. Firstly, the logs will be used without residue, and secondly, even if gusset will have a small gap, this will not affect the functionality and convenience of the summer kitchen in any way.
To build a mortgage crown, we lay two logs opposite each other. We place two more perpendicularly on them. We adjust this square to a single plane so that it lies clearly horizontally on the lower trim of the future summer kitchen. Next, we mark, cut and lay the following logs, between which we lay insulation, for example, moss or felt.
Openings for the doors and windows of the summer kitchen will be cut down in the future. The glass units themselves and Entrance door together with the components will be installed after the roof installation process is completed. We present to your attention a photo report of the construction of a 7x3 m summer kitchen.
Video - Handling
Step 5. Roof installation
Roof trusses are made from boards with a cross-section of 150x50 mm, reinforced inside with spacers and mounted to the top frame. The ends should protrude 10-15 cm beyond the perimeter of the walls. The distance between the trusses is approximately 1.5 m. The roof elements are fastened to the frame using metal plates and bolts. After installing the rafters, a ridge is installed along the trusses, and then the roof frame is sheathed with boards. Corrugated board, slate or other roofing material is laid on the sheathing.
The roof is covered with ondulin 
How windows are installed incorrectly 
| Summer kitchen 7x3 m | Project |
|---|---|
| Kitchen height | Height from floor to ceiling: 2.15 m (+-5 cm). Skate height: 1.5 m (+-5 cm) |
| Support-columnar blocks (one bedside table measuring 400x400x4000 mm consists of four cement blocks measuring 200x200x400, interconnected with a sand-cement mixture). | |
| Base strapping | Unplaned timber with a section of 100x150mm. The binding is laid in 1 row per edge. |
| Sexual lags | Unplaned timber 40x150 mm. with a laying step of 700 mm. |
| Log house | Profiled timber with a section of 90x140 mm, natural humidity |
| Assembling a log house | The log house is assembled using metal dowels (nails 200 mm). |
| Assembling log corners | Assembling the corner into a “warm corner” |
| Inter-crown insulation | Linen jute fabric is laid between the crowns |
| Partitions | Partition beam 90x140 natural humidity. |
| Floor | Double floor: subfloor: 20 mm edged board; finishing floor: tongue and groove batten 36 mm. ( chamber drying). Insulated mineral wool“KNAUF” 50 mm, “ONDUTIS” insulation is laid in 2 layers. |
| Ceiling beams | Unplaned timber 40x100 mm. with a laying step of 700 mm. |
| Ceiling | The ceiling is lined with clapboard coniferous species(chamber drying). The ceiling is insulated with KNAUF mineral wool 50 mm, and ONDUTIS insulation is laid. |
| Rafter structure | Bar 40x100 mm. with a laying step of 1000 mm. |
| Roof sheathing | The sheathing is made from 20 mm edged boards. (via the board). |
| Terrace | |
| According to the kitchen design, it is gable. | |
| Pediments | Covered with softwood clapboard (kiln-drying). Installed in kitchen gables ventilation grates(prevent the formation of condensation). |
| Skylights and eaves (roof overhangs) | They are sewn up with coniferous wood paneling (chamber drying). Overhang width: 350 – 450 mm (4 linings). |
| Roofing material | Ondulin, color to choose from: red, brown, green. |
| Window | Wooden with double glazing, installed according to the project. The size of the window blocks is 1x1.2 m. Casing bars (swarms) are installed in the openings. |
| Doors | Paneled. Casing bars (swarms) are installed in the openings. |
| Room decoration | All corners and joints in the kitchen are sealed with plinth; window and door openings are surrounded by platband. |
| Terrace | Support columns with compensation lifts (jacks) are installed for shrinkage. Terrace finishing: railings - carved, balusters - turned. There are steps at the entrance. |
Step 6. Arranging the kitchen
When the basic processes are completed, you should get serious about interior arrangement kitchens. The walls can be covered with plastic or, since a frame covered with plywood does not look very aesthetically pleasing. Then they install the stove, sink, connect electricity and water, arrange kitchen furniture. At this point, the construction of the closed kitchen can be considered complete.
Prices for drywall and sheet materials
Drywall and sheet materials
Video - DIY summer kitchen
At the dacha you just need a room where in the warm season you can cook dinner or do preserving for the winter. And even if there is a big house, every housewife just dreams about summer option kitchens closed type.
But users will learn how to inexpensively make such a design with their own hands by reading this article.
Features and types of buildings
A closed summer kitchen is a full-fledged separate building with running water and electricity. An excellent place for receiving guests in the warm season, family dinners and friendly get-togethers in the evenings. This is the right solution for regions with rainy summers and early frosts. However, to use such a construction in winter time It’s not worth it unless the owners have taken care of heating in advance.
Such a kitchen can be an independent structure or an extension to the main house, utility room or bathhouse. It can be equipped with a fireplace, barbecue or stove.
An interesting layout option is a kitchen-house with a terrace or veranda. All the necessary kitchen appliances and equipment are compactly placed inside, and a dining area is formed under the canopy.
In villages, preference is given to a type of structure with a cellar and barbecue. But you need to take into account the fact that the walls basement will become the top part of the kitchen foundation, so they should be made of the most durable material possible.
It is important to note that if it is not possible to conduct electricity on the site, then the right decision will be the purchase of a generator running on diesel fuel, which will provide light to both the building and kitchen electrical appliances.
The construction of a closed type structure is a labor-intensive process that requires accurate calculations and drawings of every detail of the building. Developing a project with correct dimensions will speed up construction and help avoid mistakes.
Site selection and structure design
The initial stage of constructing a summer kitchen at a summer cottage is choosing a location, and then designing all its components. And so that the result of the work does not disappoint, you need to remember several features.
The best options for building materials
The choice of building materials directly depends not only on the service life, preferences of the owners, but also on financial capabilities. But today there are many practical examples of successful combinations of cheap materials with more expensive ones.
During construction summer building The most in demand are:
- brick;
- concrete;
- polycarbonate;
- natural stone;
- corrugated sheeting;
- tree;
- lining;
- aluminum.
We must not forget that country cottage area should emphasize the beauty of the future structure, so it would be appropriate to lay paths of gravel or tiles, plant flowers and perennial shrubs. And if you have the financial means, build an artificial pond.
If the area is fenced with a brick fence, it is good to make a kitchen from the same material or using natural stone. Such a structure is not afraid of influence external environment and will last for more than a decade.
It is much easier to make a prefabricated indoor version of the kitchen from timber. Such a project will be less expensive, but every detail of the building will require constant care and treatment. In addition, wood wears out much faster than brick or stone.
To cover the floor use:
- laminate;
- parquet;
- linoleum;
- decorative tiles.
The roof can be covered with:
- corrugated sheets;
- soft roof;
- metal tiles.
Exterior decoration of the building with siding elements will give the kitchen a modern look.
Laying the foundation
Having decided on the location and formed the design of the structure, it is necessary to begin constructing the foundation of the building.
When planning an open version of a summer kitchen, you could simply make a small depression in the ground over the entire area of the future structure and fill it with sand. Allow time to stand a little, and lay out a layer of bricks or boards. But the basis of a closed kitchen should be a durable and strong foundation, requiring phased installation.
If flooring will be made from decorative tiles, work surface it is necessary to first sand or make a smooth cement screed.
Photo: monolithic foundation ready for construction
Construction of walls
If the owners of a summer kitchen plan to use it in late autumn during the first frosts, you need to take care of strong walls so that the room inside does not freeze under the influence of low temperatures. Therefore, in such cases, it is better to build masonry half or a whole brick thick.
Photo: process brickwork using laces
Lovers of wooden house structures will assemble the walls much faster. Their basis will be a frame made of timber. And for fastening elements it is better to use metal corners and self-tapping screws. Outer part walls can be sheathed thin layer boards
Interior finishing is done using plasterboard, plastic, lining or plastering.
Roofing installation
The roof of an enclosed kitchen should be durable and practical. Therefore, when purchasing materials for its installation, you can choose:
The shape of the roof depends on the preferences of the owners. A reliable option would be a gable roof.
Photo: log building with a gable roof
If the building will be used in winter, it is recommended to insulate it with mineral wool or other heat-insulating material.
One wing roofing or it is better to make the visor longer to create additional protection for walls during precipitation, thereby extending the life of the entire building.
Interior decoration and interior design
High-quality interior finishing and well-chosen interior design will create a pleasant atmosphere of home comfort.
When starting the arrangement, it is worth paying attention to such nuances.
When creating an enclosed summer kitchen, it is necessary to accurately calculate every detail of the structure and correctly combine the selected building materials with the overall style of the room, then the resulting structure will not only be a source of pride, but also a favorite place for the family for many years.
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Happy owners of country plots have an excellent opportunity not only to plant potatoes, but also to enjoy relaxation in nature, away from the bustle of the city. Some people cannot imagine their vacation without a noisy company of friends with a barbecue or barbecue to boot; others prefer to spend time in silence or reading a book. The arrangement of a recreation area at the dacha depends, first of all, on the purpose it will serve and on the size of the site itself.
A standard plot of 6 acres significantly limits your imagination. A spacious gazebo or complex architectural forms cannot be built here.
But we will try to create a multifunctional design in combination with a summer kitchen. In this article we will tell you how to build a summer kitchen with your own hands.
Tools for building a summer kitchen in the country
- Woodworking machine with decent power. Dry planed wood costs three times more. If you have time, you can process the wood yourself; if you have extra money, buy something ready-made.
- Chain saw for timber It is better to use a light, electric one.
- Jigsaw. The more powerful the better.
- Screwdriver
- Drill
- Tape Grinder for processing edges.
- Electric planer
- Circular hand saw
- Hacksaw
- Brushes
Materials for the construction of a summer kitchen
- Beam 100×100
- Boards 25 mm thick
- Waste oil
- Ruberoid
- Paint or Pinotex
- Linoleum
- Nails
- Self-tapping screws
- Stapler and staples
Preliminary calculations showed that a building size of 3x4m would be quite sufficient so as not to occupy all the free space of the site.
The basis of our design will be a frame made of 100×100 timber. This is the most optimal, inexpensive and reliable solution. Each element, after cutting to the required length, must be trimmed on a machine and planed using a plane. It is necessary to treat not only the visible parts of the structure, but also all other parts, soaking them generously with waste oil.
This procedure is not performed for the sake of economy - the oil protects the wood from rotting, therefore, the structure itself will last more than one season. The ends, the most vulnerable place, must be coated several times until the oil is absorbed. It is better to take the oil itself relatively light. Before starting work, try on a piece of wood to ensure the desired shade.
I used ordinary sand concrete blocks as the foundation. Under each block you need to dig a small hole and fill it with sand. We also pour sand around the blocks themselves. It makes no sense to make a solid foundation cushion.
We connect the ends of the beam in a simple way- half a tree. To do this, mark 100 mm (a little less after jointing), remove half of the thickness, then connect it using nails. We must fasten the joints from the inside with corners using long self-tapping screws. The corners should be large enough: you can buy special ones, with a stiffening rib, or simply cut them with a grinder from any available metal.
This method ensures sufficient strength and stability of the structure. The frame can be easily lifted around the corner if some part suddenly settles due to the lack of a foundation. In the spring, light buildings often “walk”, sometimes you have to level them a little.
If you want to save money, it’s better to buy regular boards and plan them yourself. The difference in price is colossal. A day of work and the boards are in perfect shape. We impregnate the bottom side and ends with waste oil before laying, but the top of the boards after finishing the work. To speed up drying, you can dilute the oil a little with turpentine.
The frame itself is built from the same timber. At correct calculations it should turn out almost without waste, given the standard length - 6 meters (in reality about 6.2 meters). A height of 2 meters will also be sufficient if calculated individually.
I decided to make the roof a little more complicated. A single-pitch roof would look bad on such a small structure. An ordinary gable with a ridge also doesn’t look very nice. I had to tinker a little, but I managed without a skate. I decided to use metal tiles as a covering.
Roof sheathing. For the sheathing I used 25 mm boards, also planed on a machine. It is better to soak them on the ground in advance, so as not to raise your head later. Impregnation is necessary for the same reason - protection from rotting. In addition, paint adheres to treated boards much better and less is required. But I decided that I would not paint the ceiling additionally. The structure of the tree already looks quite decorative.
The next stage is installation of the sheathing. First of all, ordinary roofing felt is laid on the roof, overlapping, as it should be. It is advisable to immediately waterproof the area in case of rain. It is not so expensive, and besides, when installing metal tiles, there are leaks in the places where the self-tapping screw is screwed in. Considering the small thickness of the boards, I did not use proprietary screws with spacers - the ends would stick out very unesthetically.
We cover the walls with the same boards. Initially there were thoughts about lining, but I had to abandon it for a number of reasons. As you know, it is much thinner, less durable, and the price is much higher. Under the lining you need a more frequent frame; you cannot attach the same shelves to it in selected places, because during construction it is difficult to determine what will have to be placed where.
But boards also have their drawbacks. The board, no matter how tightly it is nailed, dries out over time and cracks form. With heavy slanting rain, some water flows inside. I solved this problem in the following way: I covered the frame with linoleum to match the color of the wood and secured it with staples and a stapler.
It turned out fast and convenient. But this procedure can only be performed next year. Initially, the boards are adjusted almost perfectly on the machine.
The end result was the following:
It is advisable to coat the floor with sanding before winter. This cannot be done in the summer - it takes too long to dry even with turpentine. This method is not suitable indoors - the smell lingers for a long time, and the fumes are not very useful. But in the open air they are not felt at all! Further painting does not take much time, but I decided to leave the floor in this condition for the winter, since the paint may peel off due to snow and rain.
So, our building is ready. Inside there is a summer kitchen with a drain into a buried barrel, several shelves for children's toys and even a computer. Behind folding table During the holiday, more than 10 people can be comfortably accommodated. Everything is under a roof, but at the same time - in the fresh air. There's a barbecue nearby so you don't have to go too far.
In such a country summer kitchen you can have breakfast and lunch until late autumn, because you can stay at home in the city. And here nature is all around, the birds are singing...
Summer kitchens in the country, the projects of which are presented in our photo gallery, are as individual and varied as the traditions of each individual family.
By appearance they may differ from the buildings already existing at the dacha or be harmonious and complement them. And for the price - to demonstrate “chic and brilliance”, to be quite budget option or the golden mean.
Since you are interested in this topic, most likely you already have a rough idea of what a summer kitchen at your dacha will look like. We will help you not to lose sight important details, we’ll share interesting ideas, and a selection of photos will charge you with the enthusiasm necessary to implement them.
Where to start working on own project? To begin with, we would recommend defining a list of tasks that the summer kitchen will perform.
Functions of a summer kitchen
The size, type, layout, content of the summer kitchen in the country, and many other points depend on the purpose of this building.
After all, it is used for cooking, as well as for placing:
- dining room;
- recreation areas;
- areas for washing and storing dishes;
- guest;
- barbecue or grill areas;
- kitchen utensils that you don’t use very often in the main house;
- dryers for clothes, linen, mushrooms, berries, fruits and herbs;
- gardening, fishing or hunting equipment.
You can move the washing or dishwasher, if they have no place in the house.
Considering that not many buildings can fit on a standard 6 acres, it would be rational find a use for the space above or below the kitchen.
The cellar is useful for storing twists and preserves, seeds, frost-resistant tubers, plant rhizomes and garden tools. In the attic you can create a place for drying fruits, mushrooms or fish.
It is better to think about the summer kitchen project at the stage of construction of the dacha itself (if possible). First of all, it is cost-effective and reduces the cost of repairs.
The attic can always be completed, but with the cellar everything can be much more complicated. An insulated and waterproofed cellar is useful for storing a variety of things, including firewood.
Stove selection
Even in ancient times, the construction of a house began with a stove. Today this is not the case, because heating devices there are a lot of them, and their use is often limited only to cooking.
With type kitchen stove you need to decide in advance - since this determines what to do gas pipes or cable.
Most often at the dacha they install an ordinary gas stove. According to the older generation, it is easier to cook with it and costs less. If it is not possible to supply gas, you can use a propane cylinder or opt for an electric stove.
For lovers of barbecue and grilling there are portable kitchens that can be rearranged from open air under the canopy and vice versa.
Fans of multifunctional items will appreciate heating and cooking stoves or stove complexes. After all, a Russian, Swedish or Dutch stove can be not only a fireplace and a means of cooking, but also effective way heating adjacent rooms of the house - for example, a bathhouse, sauna or shower.
By installing a metal tank near such a stove, you will provide a kitchen in the country hot water(which is very convenient when washing dishes and jars).
If purchasing new equipment or building complex structures is not part of your plans, and even more so when you strive for maximum closeness with nature and want to build a fire source with your own hands, make a barbecue.
- do not intend to purchase new technology for a summer residence;
- you do not plan to build complex structures;
- do not trust portable structures;
- if you want to arrange a place for fire yourself -
Build a grill. This useful prop for the dacha can be made with your own hands.
Country life is unimaginable without a barbecue, which you can easily make with your own hands. (the word “construction” appears in other parts of the text).
To lay out the area in contact with fire, you will need a fireproof material - for example, fireclay brick, mortar or clay. The outer layer of the grill can be decorated with river or facing stone.
An alternative eco-fuel to gas and electricity - firewood - will definitely reduce your heating costs, especially if a forest is nearby. But, as with everything, it also has its drawbacks, because cooking with wood requires:
- regular cutting and harvesting;
- storage;
- annual chimney cleaning.
Now we move on to the next step: choosing the type of construction.
Closed summer kitchens
A closed summer kitchen, completely protected from the wind and other weather surprises, will perfectly serve as a guest house. And if you provide good heating, it will be adapted for housing in winter. Examples of closed summer kitchens in the country are in the photo below.
A closed summer kitchen with a sofa and a dining area is a complete, durable home with obvious advantages. Neither rain, nor snow, nor mosquitoes will drive you away from the table, will not disrupt your plans, and even more so, will not damage the furniture and equipment. But more materials are needed for its construction.
The walls are built from brick, stone or foam concrete, and the roof is made from tiles, slate or corrugated sheets. And for all this you need a solid foundation with a depth of at least 50 cm.
A properly designed and built closed kitchen will function all 4 seasons, regardless of the climate zone.
If the guest room is located in the main house or is not included in your project at all, the size of the kitchen can be reduced. Necessary minimum for a kitchen-dining room an area of 8-9 is considered square meters, but who better than you knows the exact figure.
Tip: in order not to suffocate while cooking on hot summer days, consider the possibility of turning a closed kitchen into a semi-open one by opening windows or additional doors.
Outdoor summer kitchens
Open buildings are those in which walls, and sometimes even a roof, are completely or partially absent. These include gazebos, pavilions, canopies, patios or pergolas.
This is a great opportunity to organize a kitchen with a barbecue or other source of fire. An open kitchen won't cost you much. It is quickly erected and does not require exhaust hood, heating, a strong foundation or professional construction skills.
Having dug a pit 15-20 cm deep, you fill it with sand or crushed stone, compact it, and then lay terrace boards, brick, stone or paving slabs- that's the foundation.
Important: the roof in an open structure must extend beyond the boundaries of the building - this way it will save you as much as possible from slanting rain.
The absence of windproof walls and free circulation of air masses is both an advantage and a disadvantage of an open kitchen in the country. On the one hand, the wind saves from the heat and fans the fire. But in the company of rain and cold, it makes your stay in nature uncomfortable, and open structures - short-lived buildings for seasonal purposes.
Often kitchens open type used for arranging cozy outdoor dining areas. The walls will be filled with partitions decorated with curly garden plants or trees.
Clematis, bindweed, grapes, kiwi, vines - select plants so that they bloom one after another, and your kitchen is constantly transformed in color. A beautiful and useful wall substitute for the dining room would be mosquito net with a pattern, long curtains or roller blinds.
To get an idea of the variety of open summer kitchens, take a look at these photos.
Combined
Semi-open summer kitchens combine positive traits closed and open buildings. You are still in the fresh air, but no longer exposed to all four winds.
One of the walls can be adjacent to a house or other building, allowing you to save on materials. Two stone walls provide an opportunity to arrange corner kitchen, convenient in terms of ergonomics and placement of the dining room.
Combined kitchens are also called kitchens made from different materials - for example, stone or brick goes up to the window level, and beams go above, frame technologies or panels.
Having decided on the functions and choosing the degree of “closedness” of the planned building, we proceed to the search best place for its location.
Optimal place
Finding the best place for new construction– This is perhaps one of the most difficult parts of the project. Based on placement, summer kitchens are divided into two types: free-standing structures and extensions to the main house.
But here's what you need to consider. On the one hand, the summer kitchen in the country should be closer to the house, because it will be easier to establish communications. But then smoke and heat can enter the house, causing inconvenience. Therefore, it is important to find out in which direction air masses are most often directed.
Like any place for preparing or eating food, the kitchen should be located away from the toilet, chicken coop, doghouse, roadway, compost pit and other sources of unpleasant odors.
Cooking in the sun is not a pleasant task, so the proximity of a dense tree crown will not hurt.
And, of course, everyone would like to enjoy a magnificent landscape, garden or vegetable garden, and not the wall of a neighboring house. At this point, a compromise is possible - decorated climbing plants, textiles, stained glass or decorative partition that will hide the unsightly appearance.
It is also necessary to take into account that a closed summer kitchen requires a deep foundation.
Economy options
Many people dream of a summer kitchen in their country house, but often the prices for the stone most suitable for its arrangement direct our enthusiasm to something else. But in vain...
After all, a kitchen can be made from scrap materials, you just need to use your wits. For example, old window frames will reduce the cost of building an enclosed kitchen.
True, this will not save you from the need to lay the foundation.
Alternatively, a summer kitchen can be made from a railway container. It is possible that purchasing a ready-made change house that does not require additional finishing will cost much less than construction.
But still, a summer kitchen project in a country house, which falls under the category of economy class, most often involves an open-type construction. And since the concept of “simple summer kitchen” is very individual and flexible, let’s look at several different options.
1. United by an island, the stove, sink and work surfaces are located on a common foundation with the house under open air. Stone, plastic, stainless steel and thoughtful design will protect the island from the influence of moisture, but the awning installed nearby will save you and the prepared dishes.
2. Conversion of a gazebo, veranda or terrace into a summer kitchen.
3. Connection of two existing buildings common roof made of tarpaulin or lighter waterproof materials.
4. Stakes or metal supports, braided grapevine as walls and a thatched roof.
5. Arrangement of a summer kitchen near the fence wall: all that remains is to add an awning or a pitched roof.
6. Open or closed kitchen made of adobe - a mixture of earth, clay, hay and other available materials. True, adobe is suitable for buildings in hot, arid climates.
And here are some more examples interesting projects lastly.
We hope our article inspired you to create the outdoor kitchen of your dreams!
