History of the Minerva sewing machine manufacturing company. Minerva sewing machines. Advantages of Minerva sewing machines

Large Czech company, ANITA S.R.O. produces equipment under the brand name GARUDAN www.anita.cz, previously there was a different name MINERVA.

Lada, produced by the plant in Soběslav, and Minerva in Boskovice. The same models were in production at two factories. But the Minerva plant was focused mainly on the production of industrial sewing machines. Here probable cause, installations on Minerva 233, needles from industrial sewing machines, with a round flask. Needles 1738, these were on our 97 class industrial machines.

In photo 1, Minerva 233, car (without light bulb), under the front cover. This machine is a Craft machine. It is neither household nor industrial. Due to the installation of the device on it, the knee is a lift, it does not hide in the cabinet. On the top of the machine, there are two rods for the coils. But it is not rational to use them in modern conditions. Quite convenient to guide the thread from the bobbin, on the table, install and make an industrial rack. As in photo 2.

Photo 1.

Photo 2 shows the installation principle of the side reel holder.

It can also be telescopic. And with a rod - an axis, under the reel, on plywood. Instead of the lower nuts, there may be a stand. With fastening with screws. All sizes are shown in photo 3.

Photo 2.

In photo 3, a homemade reel holder when working with reels. It is enough to drill one hole in the table and install the lower rod into this hole. The most important size is 400 mm and the alignment of the rod is with the hook. Otherwise, the thread will jump off or get tangled.

Photo 3.

In photo 4, Minerva 233, the numbers show the details of the machine:

  1. Control knob, zigzag width.
  2. Handle for shifting the needle relative to the center of the needle plate.
  3. Stitch length knob.
  4. Regulator and tensioner of the thread fed to the bobbin winder.
  5. Bobbin winder.
  6. Flywheel.
  7. Friction Screw.
  8. Electric motor fastening screw.
  9. Access cover to the zigzag mechanism.

In photo 4. Along the axis of the pulley, a screw with a large head, No. 7, is screwed in, called the Friction Screw.

Photo 4.

If this does not happen when the clutch screw is loosened, we, mechanics, disassemble this unit.

Disassembly and correct installation Clutch screw:

The working stroke and winding of the bobbin is carried out by turning the Friction screw by 1/3 of a turn. There is a screw on the head of the Friction screw - it is without a head,

  1. You need to unscrew it 4 - 5 half turns.
  2. Now you can unscrew the Friction screw completely.
  3. By removing the ring, you can pull the flywheel or pulley off the shaft.
  4. We clean the pulley seat from rust so that it shines, sandpaper. And also, inside the pulley hole. And we lubricate everything with oil, I - 18 A or I - 20 A (spindle).

Assembly:

  1. We put the flywheel in place. It should turn easily.

According to photo 5, put the ring with the inner antennae, up!

  1. We tighten the Friction screw.
  2. We tighten it.
  3. We tighten the small screw on the Friction Clutch screw.

In photo 5, the clutch screw is metal, but the most important thing is the Ring with “antennae and ears”.

Photo 5.

  1. If there is nowhere for it to screw in, we disassemble it again - unscrew the Friction Clutch screw.
  2. We turn the ring 180* - but with the antennae still facing up.

This ring has only one correct position, when when screwed into the clutch screw, a small screw ends up between the outer antennae of the ring, without interfering with tightening the clutch screw more strongly - including the working stroke of the machine, and when unscrewing the clutch screw, appeared idling. That is, the pulley rotates, but the needle is in place. The outer ears on the ring are limiters for turning the Friction screw.

Kinematic diagram.

In photo 6, kinematics of Lada 233 and Minerva 233, locations of car parts, from the passport. I touched them up a little. Here are the main names of the parts located in the sleeve and below the machine platform:

  1. Flywheel.
  2. Seat for flywheel.
  3. Traction with fork.
  4. Rod with clamp.
  5. Small gear.
  6. Big gear.
  7. Main shaft.
  8. Needle bar guide.
  9. Needle bar screw.
  10. Needle bar.
  11. Material transportation shaft.
  12. Material lifting and lowering shaft.
  13. Bracket transmitting movement.
  14. A bracket with a conveyor block installed on it.
  15. A bracket that transmits movement to the movement of material.
  16. Conveyor block.
  17. Installation pin.
  18. The shaft transmitting movement to the shuttle shaft.
  19. Stitch length mechanism.
  20. Eccentric bushing.

Photo 6.

In photo 7, the details of the needle bar mechanism are shown in numbers, here are their names:

  1. Needle.
  2. Screw securing the needle holder to the needle bar.
  3. Needle bar.
  4. Shift frame, needle bar, when zigzag.

The number 4 pointer points to the lower needle bar bushing.

  1. Screw on the needle bar clamp.

Screw on the needle bar clamp. To adjust the needle height!

  1. Needle bar guide.
  2. Screw securing the driver to the crank.
  3. Thread take-up.
  4. Rocker.
  5. Fastening screw, rocker arm, to the machine body.
  6. Upper bushing, needle bar.
  7. Rod - connecting the frame of the needle bar, with a pin - hinge, "channel channel".

This rod transmits movement from a three-center cam mounted on the gear axis.

  1. Screw for fastening the rod to the needle bar frame.
  2. Spring, needle bar frame return. (I don’t remember the exact location!)

Photo 7.

Photo 8 shows a top view of the zigzag mechanism. Machine Minerva 233. The numbers indicate the details of the zigzag mechanism:

  1. Zigzag handle. From 0 - 4 mm.
  2. Screw, brake handles zigzag.
  3. Gear axis mounting screw No. 8.
  4. Bracket "Sickle".
  5. A pin is a hinge responsible for moving the needle to the right and left. See photo 12 no. 8.
  6. The rod, through a hinge pin, is connected to the needle bar frame.
  7. Big gear.
  8. Seat, large gear.
  9. Small gear.
  10. Eccentric bushing screw.
  11. Traction clamp.
  12. Oil can. For oil to fall onto the jumper of the shaft knees.
  13. Belt with staples.
  14. Fastening screw, seat, for belt, with brackets.

Photo 8.

Principle of operation:

  1. Small gear No. 9, mounted on the main shaft. It is twice as small as the large one, No. 7. For one full revolution of the flywheel, the small gear rotates once. That is, the main shaft rotates once. Since the crank is installed on the main shaft, it also makes one full revolution. For one revolution of the crank, the needle bar (it is attached to the crank) drops from the top point zero to the lowest position. To lower zero, (0). And again it rises to the upper zero, (0). The thread take-up does the same.
  2. But the large gear, during this time, turns only half a turn. Therefore, the needle bar offset frame, when zigzag, moves once. One revolution of the flywheel, frame, in one position. At the beginning of the second revolution, the frame with the needle bar moves to a new position. In this new position, the same operation occurs again. The needle bar lowers, the needle punctures the material, comes out of the material, goes to the top point zero, then from the bottom zero, the thread take-up rises, to the top point zero. Drawing thread in the stitching.

In photo 9, Location of parts under the top cover. The way it should be, on an adjusted machine.

Inspection: photo 9:

  1. The screw is tightened to capacity.
  2. The zigzag shift knob has a heavy move.
  3. Bushing, deep set. But, not rested against the sickle.
  4. The “sickle” bracket dangles and has axial play.

Setting: Photo 9.

  1. I took off the white handle and there was a screw on the side.
  1. Zigzag handle.
  2. Leave the needle position knob in the needle plate, left - right, in place.
  1. I took off the decorative plate. Photo 10.
  2. Loosened the screw. Photo 9.
  3. Using a nail, I knocked out the bushing, point-blank to the sickle.
  4. I tightened the screw.
  5. I installed the decorative strip in place. Photo 11.
  6. I replaced the zigzag handle.
  7. I checked the rotation and switching, everything works fine.

Photo 10.

Photo 11 shows a view of the large gear from the back of the car.

  1. Rusk. - Stone.

There is a screw on the cracker. With this screw, the needle is set to a straight line, in the center of the needle hole!

  1. Pin - hinge.
  2. In photo 6, No. 12. The rod transmits the movements of the scenes, the frame of the needle bar, through the pin - the hinge.
  3. Screw with left-hand thread.
  4. Washer.
  5. Three-center cam. Works like a copy disk on a Chaika 3 machine.
  6. Big gear.
  7. Backstage Groove.
  8. A nut, a screw, located on a block, installed in a groove - the “link channel”.
  9. Copier (It is marked in yellow), but this is not a separate part. And the continuation of the scenes.
  10. Pin - hinge.
  11. Sickle.

When the sickle stands vertically, this means the zigzag handle is at zero!

  1. The rod is a copier and goes to the needle bar frame.

Photo 11.

Principle of operation:

  1. For half a turn, large gear No. 7, a three-center cam, presses on the rocker - with a protrusion. The drawstring goes down. Cracker - the stone remains in place. But at the same time, the Traction - transmitting the movements of the scenes No. 3, straightens and moves the needle bar frame.
  2. During the second half-turn of the large gear, the three-center cam rotates along with the gear and does not press. Since a tensioned spring is connected to the needle bar frame, it compresses and returns the needle bar frame to its original position. Thereby lifting the drawstring to the top.

Adjustment for the left and right zigzag injection is made by turning the small gear around the main shaft!

In photo 12, Lada 236 car, view of the shafts from the bottom of the car. They are similar to the Minerva 233 machine. The numbers indicate their location, and below their names:

  1. Belt with staples.

Photo 12.

Photo 13 shows the shafts, exactly the same as in photo 12. But this is a Lada 233 car. They are similar to the Minerva 233 car.

On the Lada 233 car, a knee lift is installed!

  1. Fork pull - Responsible for moving the material.
  2. Shaft - Responsible for promoting the material.
  3. Rod with clamp. Responsible for raising and lowering the conveyor block.
  4. Shaft - Responsible for raising and lowering the conveyor block.
  5. Bracket - a finger is inserted into it. From the finger, traction, to the shift knob, to the height of the conveyor block. Handle on the platform at the top!
  6. Bracket, with conveyor block.
  7. Shaft transmitting movement to the shuttle. Through a belt with staples.
  8. Carter. It transmits motion from shaft No. 7 to the shuttle shaft.
  9. The shuttle is the same as on class 22 vehicles; 322 classes; Veritas 8014/43.
  10. Belt with staples.

For Lada 233 and Minerva 233.

Below the platform, the screw in node No. 5 is released and the conveyor block is lowered accordingly. To return it to working condition, you need to:

  1. Using the flywheel, raise the conveyor block to the highest position.
  2. In this position, loosen the bracket fastening screw, No. 5.
  3. Press down on bracket No. 5. Hold the flywheel with your hand.
  4. The top of the teeth, the conveyor block, should rise above the top of the needle plate by 0.5 - 0.7 mm, for sewing thin and medium-sized fabrics. And by 0.8 - 1.2 for teak leather substitute.
  5. The screw is on the bracket, tighten it in this position.

This is not in the instructions!

Photo 13.

In photo 14, the same mechanism is shown, the Lada 233 car. They are similar to the Minerva 233 car. There is also an addition - a knee lift.

  1. Fork pull - Responsible for moving the material.
  2. Shaft - Responsible for promoting the material.
  3. Rod with clamp. Responsible for raising and lowering the conveyor block.
  4. Shaft - Responsible for raising and lowering the conveyor block.
  5. Photo 13
  6. Photo 13
  7. Shaft transmitting movement to the shuttle. Through a belt with staples.
  8. Photo 13.
  9. Photo 13.
  10. Belt with staples.
  11. Screws fastening a fixed bracket, a lifting elbow, to the machine body.
  12. Screws securing the knee lift to the machine body.
  13. An axis connecting the movable to the fixed brackets.
  14. Tension regulator, upper cable.
  15. The outer sheath of the cable.
  16. Cable going to the bracket, lifting the foot.
  17. End of the top cable.
  18. The beginning of the lower cable.
  19. Clamping screw, end, top cable.
  20. Clamping screw at the end of the lower cable going to the knee lift lever.
  21. Fixed bracket shank. Broken part.

Photo 14.

On photo 15, All parts are marked the same as on photo 14.

Photo 15.

Photo 16 shows a cabinet from which a lever comes out, which is called knee - lift. Cars Lada 233 and Minerva 233.

Photo 16.

In photo 17, the shuttle of a class 22 machine. Its seat is 7.2 mm. Maximum outside diameter- 34.5 mm. Maximum length shuttle 26.5 mm.

The shuttles of industrial machines 1022 and 1022 M also have an outer maximum diameter of 34.5 mm. But the diameter of the seat is 8.2 mm. The maximum length of both shuttles is 26.5 mm.

Photo 17.

In photo 18, seat, shuttle Lada 236.

Photo 18.

Photo 19, Lada 236 shuttle. Seat diameter 7.2 mm. Maximum outer diameter 34.5 mm. Maximum shuttle length 26.5 mm.

Photo 19.

In photo 20, the shuttle is installed on the crankcase and on the shuttle shaft, Lada 236. For the Minerva 233, the same.

Photo 20.

In photo 21, the Shuttle with a seat of 8.2 mm is installed in a Lada 236 car.

A foil sleeve with a thickness of 0.6 mm is put on the shuttle seat. This shuttle also works well. I don’t know which factory produced such shuttles. The numbers indicate the parts involved in installing the shuttle:

  1. Screw, mounting pin.
  2. Installation pin.
  3. Bobbin.
  4. Bobbin thread guide.
  5. Leaf spring, cap.
  6. Crankcase access cover.
  7. The limiting pressure sleeve, with two screws, is designed to eliminate axial play on the shaft on which the gear is mounted in the crankcase.

Photo 21.

In photo 22, seat, shuttle, Veritas 8014/3 machine. The numbers indicate the parts involved in installing the shuttle, for a better understanding of what we are talking about, in the absence of a photo of Minerva 233, I use a photo of the Veritas machine:

  1. Installation pin.
  2. Screw securing the mounting pin.
  3. Shuttle seat.
  4. Crankcase cover mounting screws.
  5. Remote, retaining sleeve, on the shuttle shaft.

Designed to ensure that the shuttle seat does not have axial play.

Photo 22.

Device. Preparing for installation. Installation and exhibition of the shuttle.

Shuttle device.

Photo 23 shows a shuttle, it consists of:

  1. Spring screw, bobbin case.
  2. Second screw, bobbin case springs.
  3. Spring, bobbin case.
  4. Latch, bobbin case.
  5. Landing axis, bobbin case, in the bobbin case.
  6. A seat in the bobbin case for the installation pin.
  7. Bobbin belt.
  8. Technological holes.
  9. Thread fuse screw.
  10. Thread fuse. - I call the plate “Dovetail”.
  11. Seat, bobbin belt.
  12. Seat for thread fuse. "Dovetail".
  13. Cogs, 3 of them, fastening the shuttle to the shuttle shaft.
  14. Screws, 3 of them, fastening the cover plate.
  15. Overlay plate.
  16. Large technological hole in the shuttle.
  17. Shuttle nose.
  18. Thread gripper slot in the bobbin belt.
  19. Installation pin. Photo 6.
  20. Screw securing the mounting pin to the machine body.
  21. Plate body of the mounting pin.
  22. Half-hole, for fixing, latch, bobbin case.
  23. Bobbin thread guide.
  24. Bobbin. Spool.
  25. Hole for removing the lower thread from the cap. But the machine works well without threading it.
  26. Pin axis, bobbin case latches.
  27. Cam, latching handles.
  28. Cover plate, bobbin case.
  29. Locking screw, cover plate. Designed to limit the stroke of the overhead plate.
  30. Lock, cover plate.
  31. Tongue, overlay plate.
  32. Handle - latch.
  33. The spring against which the tongue rests on the cover plate.
  34. A slot for a lock in the bobbin case.
  35. The seat of the spring is in the bobbin case.
  36. Restrictive hole for the cam, latching handles.

Photo 23.

Photo 24 shows the shuttle of the Lada 233. And Minerva 233.

Photo 24.

Preparing for installation.

Sharpening the nose.

Photo 25 shows the shuttle from machine 1022 disassembled.

  1. Pressure plate.
  2. Shuttle body.
  3. Dovetail. Or a thread guide plate.

Similarly, shuttles from cars are disassembled:

  1. 1022 M class.
  2. Minerva 233.
  3. 22 classes;
  4. Lada 236.
  5. Lada 237.
  6. Lada 233.
  7. Lada 132 and so on.
  8. Veritas 8014/3.
  9. Veritas 8014/43 and so on.

Photo 25.

Photo 26 shows sharpening of the nose and shuttle for all machines with this type of shuttle.

Dull nose, these are skipped stitches! Sharpening from the top and outside is not allowed! Otherwise, the shuttle will have to be thrown away! The red lines show the plane that needs to be sharpened! The nose of the shuttle should be as sharp as the point of a needle!

Photo 26.

In photo 27, thread guide plate, shuttle. - " Dovetail". The needle broke - a notch. The shuttle is jammed - a notch.

Red dashes show the places where notches are formed. If there is at least one notch on this edge, the machine will tear the upper thread, even when sewing thin fabric.

Photo 27.

Elimination method.

If even one notch appears, it is necessary to remove a layer of metal along the entire length of this rib, to the depth of the notch. Then go through it with polishing sandpaper, or even better, polish it on a felt wheel.

At the location where the nick appears, an experienced mechanic will immediately tell what happened to the machine. If you experience frequent thread breaks, look here!

Installation and exhibition of the shuttle.

Pay attention in photo 28 to the position of the installation pin! The gap between the bobbin case and the mounting pin must be at least 0.8 mm! If less, there will be breaks top thread! And the finger should rise above the top of the bobbin by 1 mm! If the top of the installation pin is level with the top of the bobbin case, it will loop on the material from below! And the upper thread will not be adjusted using the upper thread regulator. But with strong compression of the plates, it will simply break off. The installation pin can be bent by 1 - 2 mm, up and down!

Here is the procedure for installing the shuttle:

  1. Remove the needle plate.
  2. Remove the conveyor block.
  3. Place the car on the back wall.
  4. Loosen the shuttle fastening screws (Photo 19) so that they do not protrude along the inner diameter of the seat in the shuttle.
  5. Put the shuttle on the landing axle of the shuttle! Photo 22.
  6. Loosen the fastening screw and remove the adjusting pin. Photo 21 No. 1.
  7. Put it on the axle, shuttle.
  8. Referring to photo 21, install the mounting pin.

Tighten the adjusting pin screw, but do not tighten it!(photo 21)

For a better understanding of the material, I use photographs from a Veritas machine with a class 22 shuttle! For lack of photos, from the car Minerva 233.

  1. Photo 28 shows the needle.
  1. The needle goes down.
  2. The needle point is level with the outer diameter of the shuttle.
  3. The screws securing the shuttle are loose.

Photo 28.

  1. In photo 29, the needle remained at the same point as in the previous photo 28. But while holding the flywheel from turning, we turned the shuttle to the right, around the axis. The point of the needle is flush with the imaginary plane of the dovetail. In this position, we need to tighten one of the screws securing the shuttle to the landing axis, photo 22 No. 3.

Photo 29.

  1. In photo 30, we slowly rotate the flywheel towards ourselves. The needle has dropped to the bottom point zero (0). The top of the needle hole is level with the bottom bar of the bobbin case.

From the photo we can say that the flat of the needle is not parallel to the plane of the shuttle. The needle bar is turned this way only when sewing leather. So that there are no skipped stitches. This machine is a seamstress. And this arrangement of the needle will lead to rapid wear of the nose and shuttle. You need to do the following:

  1. Check the needle.
  2. Photo 6, loosen screw number 9.
  3. Rotate the needle bar, with the needle inserted, around its axis. So that the flat of the needle is parallel to the plane of the shuttle. And at the same time, the top of the needle hole was flush with the bottom bar of the bobbin.

Photo 30.

  1. In photo 31, the same as in photo 30, but only with the bobbin bag removed. The needle is turned along with the needle bar.

  1. Photo 32 shows:
  1. By slowly rotating the handwheel, the needle, being in the straight stitch position, rose by 1.5 - 1.8 mm.
  2. And the flat of the needle intersected with the nose of the shuttle. This should happen strictly in the middle of the flat, the needle.

Photo 32.

  1. Photo 33 is the same as photo 26, only a side view.
  1. The gap between the flat of the needle and the nose of the shuttle should be 0.1 mm.
  2. The gap between the bobbin case and the installation pin is 0.8 -1.5 mm.
  3. The top of the spout of the installation pin is 1 mm higher than the bobbin case. in this position we tighten the second screw.

Photo 33.

  1. In photo 34, the needle exits the surface of the shuttle. Plate angle. (Photo 27 second notch). Correct position: The arrow shows the screw behind the needle.

Photo 34.

In photo 35, the setting pin, with red lines, indicated the edges to be chamfered.

Sharp edges contribute to the breakage of the upper thread when the thread is pulled out by the thread take-up from the shuttle.

The installation pin should enter the bobbin bearing no deeper than half the depth of the groove! If it goes deeper, then when installing a thick thread into the needle, problems may arise with tightening the upper thread!

Photo 36 shows the trajectories of the shuttle at the maximum zigzag width.

Photo 36-1

Photo 37 shows the right needle prick. A needle with a slot on the flask. Minerva 233, needle on flask, without slot! Minerva 233 can be configured for both household and industrial needles.

Photo 37.

In photo 37, the needle is in the center of the needle plate. A needle with a slot on the flask.

Photo 37.

If you have skipped stitches, on the right or left stitch, then this means the gaps are broken. Between the flat of the needle and the nose is 0.1 mm! These gaps will also appear on the straight line. On the right injection, the bottom of the nose should be level with the top of the needle hole. Or 1 mm higher. See photo 36 - 1.

Upper thread tension regulator.

In photo 38. the upper thread tension regulator, Minerva 233 is the same as Veritas 8014/3

Photo 38.

In photo 39 - 1, unscrew the nut, it is on the right, loosen the screw on the base by 1-3 half turns. And everything lies unfolded.

  1. Base. Photo 39 - 1
  2. An axial rod is inserted into the base.
  3. On the rod, a compensation spring.
  4. A pusher rod is inserted inside. One edge is flattened. L - 27 mm. Diameter 1.8 - 2 mm. It is inside the axle rod and should move easily, without jamming.
  5. The axial rod is inserted into the base in the place where the slot is made on the base. In case of loss, it can be easily made from a nail of suitable diameter.
  6. Compensation spring is placed on the axial rod. An axial rod is inserted into the base. And then it turns at the base at such an angle that the bottom of the compensation spring does not reach the right stop - 0.5 mm. In this position, tighten the screw on the base! If it hits, the tension on the compensation spring will be strong. And when the nut is loosened, the thread tension will practically not be adjusted.
  7. Now I put a small washer on the axle. It prevents the spring coil from jumping out of the base.
  8. Now, we put the first plate on the axial rod.
  9. Separating washer so that you can sew on the machine with two threads.
  10. Place the second plate, with the curved part, towards the separating washer.
  11. Washer with jumper. The curved jumper, to the side, of the pressure nut. Very often, it is installed backwards to front.
  12. Now a large washer with holes. The concave part towards the base.
  13. Spring with the wide end to the cylindrical washer, bent, narrow end of the spring, into the slot of the axial rod.
  14. We tighten the nut.

Here is a list of parts, from left to right:

  1. Base.
  2. Axial rod, upper thread regulator.
  3. Compensation spring.
  4. Upper thread regulator pusher rod.
  5. Slot for a cone spring.
  6. Restrictive washer.
  7. Plate, concave.
  8. Distributor washer.
  9. Plate, concave.
  10. Washer with jumper.
  11. Washer with holes along the inner diameter.
  12. Cone spring.
  13. Pressure nut.

Photo 39 - 1.

Adjusting the tension of the upper and lower threads.

Photo 39 shows how to correctly install the bobbin into the cap. Regardless of the class of the car and the shape of the cap.

Here's what you need to pay attention to:

  1. A groove in the bobbin case for the thread to enter the cap.
  2. Cap spring.
  3. The adjusting screw, when tightened, tightens the thread and spring more strongly, when unscrewed, the pressure weakens. Twist clockwise, unscrew counterclockwise!
  4. Seat, bobbins.
  5. Bobbin. When pulling the thread from the bobbin, it should rotate clockwise! Put it differently and the thread tension in the stitch will immediately weaken. And in the line, there will be a knot visible on top of the material.
  6. A thread.

Photo 39.

When changing the thread number to another number, it may be necessary to again adjust the thread on the bobbin case. But more often, they resort to adjustment when they sewed thick material, and then began to sew thin material. The Minerva 233 machine is set to X / Paper, bi-fold. But the machine can sew silk, tarpaulin, burlap and teak. At the same time, not only the thread number must be changed, but also the needle number. But no one does this, they call a mechanic.

Photo 40 shows how to adjust the spring screw on the cap:

  1. Let's take the thread.
  2. We take it by the thread, the cap with the bobbin hangs. Photo 40. The thread does not stretch. If it pulls out, tighten the screw 1 - 2 turns.

The bobbin case, with the bobbin placed correctly, must hang on this thread!

  1. Not enough - Tighten the screw on the bobbin case another 0.5 turns, clockwise.
  2. Let's take the thread for a test. Few?
  3. Another 0.5 turn, twist and try.
  4. That's it, it's hanging!

Photo 40.

  1. In photo 41, Now lightly shake the bobbin case.

The threads should move from 5 to 15 cm, depending on the strength of shaking. But the bobbin case should hang in the air again. And the thread from it should not unwind spontaneously!

Photo 41.

The guideline for adjustment is the thread tension in the stitch!

Rules when replacing the upper thread number in the tension regulator

  1. When changing the thickness of the thread, tighten the nut between the plates; if the thread is changed, set it thinner than it was!
  2. If there is a thread, put it thicker, unscrew it!

Imagine that one full turn of the nut is the face of a watch.

Having made a mark on the nut with a felt-tip pen, tighten it for 15 minutes, a little for another 15 minutes, a lot - loosen for 7.5 minutes. Then, loosen another - 3.25 and so on. If there are visible knots at the top of the stitching, the top thread is too tight.

Photo 42 shows two threads passing through the material. The upper one is black, the lower one is striped. By this arrangement, in a line, we can say:

  1. They often say this: The upper thread is not pulled into the material.
  2. Mechanics say - The bottom thread is visible from the top.

Cause:

  1. The bobbin thread is not tensioned in the bobbin case!
  2. Upper thread:
  1. Jumped out of the plates, upper thread regulator!
  2. It jumped out from under the thread guide and upper thread regulator!
  3. The compensation spring is broken!

Remedy:

From Photo 42 and Photo 43.

In photo 42, the lower thread is visible from the top.

Photo 42.

On photo 43, Upper thread, visible from the bottom.

Photo 43.

Pictured 44, Thread tension is adjusted correctly! But in order to see such a stitch, it is necessary to tear off from the stitched piece of fabric the threads coming out of the needle and from the bottom of the shuttle. And try to slightly separate the upper fabric from the lower one, as in photo 45.

Photo 44.

Pictured 45, Thread tension is adjusted correctly! The interweaving of threads occurs strictly along the axis of the materials being sewn.

Photo 45.

Characteristics table, for a household needle, with a round sharpened tip.

For all classes of cars, with this type of shuttle: Lada 236, Lada 233; Lada 237; Minerva 233 and so on!

Photo 46 shows the top of the mounting pin. It is located above the bobbin plane by more than 1 mm. This causes sharpening of the edge, the dovetail thread guide plate. Which will lead to the top thread breaking. And to very rapid wear of the shuttle. And also, heavy driving or jamming of the car.

Photo 46.

For all classes of cars, with this type of shuttle!

Photo 47 shows why it is not possible to adjust the tension of the upper thread. And because of this, the top thread loops strongly at the bottom of the material we are sewing.

  1. Needle. Right!
  2. Shuttle nose. Right!
  3. The top of the mounting pin is lower than the top of the bobbin. Wrong! And it should be 1 mm higher than the top for the bobbin!
  4. The gap between the nose of the mounting pin and vertical plane under the bobbin, must be at least 0.8 - 1 mm. If it is less, there will be breaks and looping, poor adjustment of the upper thread.
  5. The correct gap between the shuttle and the spout is 0.1 mm!

Photo 47.

In photo 48, a rear view of the Minerva 233 car. Under this chrome-plated cover there is a knot for adjusting the stitch length. You can see it in photos 8 - 10. In the article: KOHLER sewing machines - Germany 55 - 60 years.

Photo 48.

Photo 49 shows the frames and the needle bar shifts to the right and left. Pay attention to the needle holder.

  1. Old design - was on the first releases.
  2. New design - subsequent releases.

Computerized sewing machine Minerva MC 90C will be yours an indispensable assistant. The machine performs 8 types of buttonholes and 90 types of stitches (working operations, elastic stitches for knitted fabrics, decorative and overlock stitches, stitches for quilting and scalloped embroidery, darning, blind hem.

It is equipped with all the necessary functions and devices that will make the sewing process quick and convenient. The machine has a convenient LCD display with which you can clearly see and quickly change the machine settings. There is also a function of automatic threading, automatic thread cutting, automatic stitching, quick presser change, and a needle positioning button.

Possibilities:

  • 90 types of stitches: decorative, for blind hemming, zigzag, overcasting (overlock), straight, reinforced straight, reinforced zigzag, elastic for blind hemming.
  • Possibility of sewing with a double needle
  • Automatic threading. An automatic threader is a device with which you can quickly thread the upper thread without straining your eyesight.

  • Sewing the loop automatically in one step. The sewing machine sews a linen buttonhole in one step, the size of the buttonhole is regulated by the settings of the sewing machine.

  • START/STOP button. Possibility to sew without using a pedal. By adjusting the speed on the front pedal and pressing one button, the sewing machine will perform the customized sewing operations.
  • Automatic thread trimming button.
  • Automatic winding of thread on bobbin
  • Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot on the fabric
  • Quick release claw system
  • Removable sleeve platform

Unpacking the Minerva sewing machine:

The main points of working on Minerva computer sewing machines:

Minerva sewing machines were one of the first to appear on the market. They are characterized modern design, affordable price And big amount functions for convenience in sewing clothes, bed linen, curtains and other things.

Types and advantages of Minerva sewing machines

The history of Minerva goes back more than 150 years. The first devices of this brand were released in 1880. The corporation was founded by Emil Rezler and Joseph Koff, naming it in honor of the ancient Greek goddess of art and craft. Over the years, the company's products have improved, and today we have access to modern, technologically advanced Minerva sewing machines.

Depending on the scope of application, the following types of sewing devices are distinguished:

  • Household. They are inexpensive devices that allow you to quickly and efficiently sew a product from cotton or other non-stretch fabric. They are equipped with a minimal set of functions and perform tasks at an average pace. The best option- For home use or application in the studio.
  • Industrial. Powerful, professional devices with automated operation. They are equipped with great functionality and memory that saves the operations used. Metal is used to make professional equipment. It is characterized by resistance to damage and durability. Designed for work in enterprises and for professional tailoring.

Types of Minerva sewing machines according to sewing method:

  • Sleeve. They are highly specialized equipment for performing complex functions. They are used to hem edges, make complex seams on sleeves, work with leather, and repair shoes.
  • Electromechanical. The most common devices used in household sphere. Equipped with electric drive. It is located in the pedal of the device. They perform a large number of different seams, sew on buttons, darn and make buttonholes.
  • Computerized. Technological and modern devices. They operate in automatic mode and perform more than 100 sewing operations. Used for sewing items from any fabric. They perform the task at high speed, cope with stitch selection and automatic threading. They independently count and adjust stitches, embroider and are equipped with a memory with which they save the programs they use. equipped with a display that displays information about the operation.
  • Computer sewing and embroidery machines. Used for embroidery and sewing. With the help of a computer, the user brings into reality any creative ideas: embroidery of photographs, cross stitch designs, satin stitch and much more.
  • Overlock. Designed for sewing cuts and edges of the product. Provide beautiful tailoring without fraying edges. They trim the edge of the fabric and straighten it, creating even seams.
  • Coverlock. Devices with cover stitching and overlocking capabilities. Designed for processing knitwear and elastic textiles, as they do not stretch or damage the fabric.
  • Quilting. They form a chain stitch - elastic and stretchable. Used for processing knitwear.

Minerva sewing machines differ from each other in the way they make buttonholes.

  • Machine. Advanced modifications, where the loop is performed immediately after the user presses the pedal.
  • Semi-automatic The buttonhole is made in several stages: securing the edge, switching and side stitching. Then switching again, fastening and the last thing - overcasting the edge.

Depending on the size they are distinguished universal devices and mini.

  • Universal. They are modifications with standard sizes. They are used mostly in household and industrial areas.
  • Mini. Compact devices with quiet operation and extensive functionality. They perform 11 types of stitches and are equipped with an upper thread tension regulator and a horizontal shuttle.

Advantages of Minerva sewing machines:

  • Design. They are produced in an original and ergonomic design, providing users with comfortable operating conditions.
  • Price. The price of the devices is acceptable for a wide segment of people with different income levels.
  • Quality. Items made using the manufacturer's products are of high quality and last a long time.
  • Functionality. Equipped with a large number of programs and add-ons for wider use.
  • Choice. The manufacturer offers customers a wide the lineup products of various types.

How to choose a Minerva sewing machine?

You can choose and buy a Minerva sewing machine in Ukraine using the ROZETKA online store. The store catalog contains big choice with an official guarantee from the manufacturer. So that you can spend comparative analysis, on the product page posted detailed information O technical specifications, product photos, reviews from other customers and reviews. For the convenience of customers, a purchase service in installments or credit is provided, and to make you want to return to the store again, promotions, discounts and sales are held on a regular basis. Before making a final decision, it is recommended to determine the following parameters for yourself:

  • Type and number of needles. The manufacturer produces models with one, two, three pointed needles. Such needles are considered the most popular, as they quickly pick up fabric. Rounded ones are used for knitted and knitted items because they do not pierce the fibers, but move them apart.
  • Shuttle type. There are devices with a horizontal and vertical shuttle. The latter is used in expensive machines and makes it possible to sew an even seam. Horizontal ensures fast sewing and high-quality stitches.
  • Speed. In budget devices, the speed is controlled by the user using the force of pressing the pedal. Professional devices are equipped with a special button for speed control.
  • Power. If you are buying a Minerva sewing machine to work with thin fabrics, then a model with medium or minimum power. If you need to process dense materials, it is recommended to buy devices with powerful technical characteristics.
  • Material of manufacture. For manufacturing, the manufacturer uses metal and plastic. Plastic is considered lighter and convenient option, but the metal is durable and resistant to falls and impacts. For household use You can purchase plastic products, but for industrial applications it is recommended to give preference to metal ones.
  • Additions and equipment. Minerva sewing machines are equipped with the following standard extras:
    • Needle threader. Needed when you have to change threads frequently.
    • Thread cutter. A useful addition, it can be automatic or manual. In the first option, it automatically cuts the threads at the right time; in the second case, the user cuts them.
    • Different types of needles. For processing different types fabrics.
    • Presser foot. So that the material lies flat and does not slip.
    • Backlight. It is presented in the form of several recessed light bulbs that provide additional lighting workplace.

The history of Minerva sewing machines began back in 1871 in Austria.
Today the brand has wide international recognition; over the past 10 years, Minerva has gained great popularity in Europe and has reached a leading position on popular foreign resources.
The design and construction of Minerva machines were developed in Europe by European Solutions LTD (London, UK). The cars are assembled directly at leading factories in Taiwan and China, under the close supervision of a European company. The choice of foreign partners by the Minerva company was determined precisely by the use of modern innovative technologies, as well as the presence of a powerful technical base at factories of Taiwanese and Chinese manufacturers. Minerva sewing machines have modern elegant design, ergonomic interface, and also easy and convenient to operate. Most models have an extended set of presser feet, a built-in needle threader and other necessary sewing accessories. The range of Minerva models is constantly expanding, focusing on consumer demand. Wherein, great importance give a balance between quality, convenience and price. The big advantage is high quality assembly and 3 years warranty from the manufacturer. Service centers in all major cities of Russia.

Top selling models

Minerva M832B - electromechanical sewing machine

For personal household use

32 types of operations

Semi-automatic loop

Vertical shuttle

Stitch length 4 mm

Stitch width 5 mm


Minerva DecorExpert - computerized sewing machine

For more complex operations at home

197 types of operations

Automatic loop

Horizontal shuttle

Stitch length 4.5 mm

Stitch width 5 mm


Minerva M4000CL is a combined overlock with a flat-stitch machine.

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