The classic tenon joint still remains the main one in the manufacture of wooden doors and furniture. Of course, no one has made tenons by hand for a long time, working with a hacksaw - a reward and a chisel. Simpler and better quality parts are obtained after processing on machines. But this does not mean that such connections cannot be made at home, using the most popular tools.
A tenon joint involves hollowing out a socket on one part and sawing out a tenon on the other. About chiselling is a separate topic; one of the options is in the article.
The spikes can be flat, plug-in flat, or plug-in round (dowels, dowels). Manufacturing in the article.
Here we will limit ourselves to making the main flat tenon using a circular saw.
When making strapping wooden door, you need to make spikes on the horizontal bars. If a tenon cutting machine is not available, then tenons can be cut on any milling machine or circular. Only for the circular saw you will have to make a special stop so that the part is strictly vertical during processing.
First, we mark the part along the length with spikes. To do this, subtract two widths of the vertical bars from the width of the door and add two lengths of the tenon.
In this case, the length of the spikes is 60 mm. , maybe a little less or more, but this length is just right for the door.
With a door width of 700 mm. and blade width 110 mm. , the length of the jumper is 480 mm. . Plus two 60 mm spikes. , total length of the workpiece is 600 mm. .
The thickness may also vary, here the thickness of the parts is 40 mm. .
Spikes on the circular.
We mark and trim the part along a length of 600 mm. . Now we need a circular saw with variable height. The photo shows a regular inexpensive Corvette, but the model doesn't matter. We set the saw height to 12 mm. , and the guide ruler is 60 mm. , according to external divorce.
We saw through the part crosswise from all sides and from each end, so we get the shoulders of the tenon. By the way, this part of the work can be done with a hacksaw.
The most important thing is to accurately cut the tenons according to their thickness. I have a 15.5 mm slotting drill. , gives a socket 16 mm wide. , accordingly, we need spikes with a thickness of 16 mm. .
The router in the photo is homemade, a table with a vertical shaft, no carriage. That's why I cut out the thorns circular saw installed on the router. The saw gives less load than cutters and parts can be processed by holding them with your hands. How to make a device for manual work circular saw, .
What you should pay attention to is that it is desirable that the tenon goes against the stop.
In this case, everything is simple, the tenon rests on the shaft. The width of the saw to the shaft is approximately 58 mm. , which is just right for the job. If there is no stop, then saw through the tenon 3-5 mm short of the shoulders. , then cut with a chisel.
We set the saw at a height of 12 mm. along the upper wire and go through the first thorn, checking it against the socket. The spike should fit tightly into the socket, but be loosened by hand.
When the saw is accurately aligned, we run through all the tenons of the set, immediately sawing out the tenons in thickness and width. If necessary, the tenons are trimmed with a chisel, the planes are leveled, the ends and side edges are rounded. Round tenons - dowels - are also used to assemble joinery products. For hammering out nests at home, a homemade one may be useful.
Spikes with a hand router.
Assembling tables coffee tables, chairs, doors and sides of cabinets, it is also better to do it on spikes.
Furniture spikes can also be made using hand router. First, we mark the part, taking into account the required length of the studs. Then we saw through the shoulders using a circular saw or a hacksaw. Place the part on the workbench and secure it with clamps.
At a short distance, but across the workpiece, we install a block of exactly the same thickness and tighten it with clamps to the work table in the same way.
We put it on a manual router end mill“barrel”, adjust the height and carefully mill the plane of the tenon. The main thing here is to adjust the router so that, after passing the tenon on both sides, you get the exact thickness of the tenon. And after adjustment, we run all the other parts of the same thickness.
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There are many types various connections, which are widely used today in repairs. They are needed for assembling and repairing furniture, for connecting individual parts of some functional elements. But it is the tenon joint that has earned the greatest popularity among all types.
A tenon joint is a connection of wooden parts by tightly fitting the tenons into the holes (grooves).
The connection based on grooves and tenons is mainly used for wooden materials. It provides a fairly strong joining, while preventing the parts from deforming. This is especially good for furniture, when it is necessary to ensure maximum reliability of fasteners.
Anyone can make a tenon joint, but before serious assembly you need to practice properly if you do not have any carpentry skills. As a result, you can get a fairly high-quality fixation. And if you further fasten it metal corners, then the strength of your furniture is at a high level.
Manufacturing of dovetail tenon and mortise.
There are many ways in which a tenon joint can be made. But before considering the main most common ones, it is advisable to take into account some rules and subtleties that will definitely need to be followed while performing the work:
- If you have the opportunity, make the tenon using special precision equipment. This will ensure that the sizes of the tenons and grooves match each other as closely as possible. Such equipment is available in every carpentry shop or industrial labor training room.
- It happens that you are going to make furniture that does not require much precision. Then you can make the connections yourself. To do this, the tenons must be cut exclusively along the grain of the wood. In this case, the width should be approximately 17-20 times the thickness of the main part. This way you will be able to avoid chipping and cracking.
- Things are a little simpler when cutting tenons on plywood. IN in this case The thickness of the spinal sinus can be absolutely any. The width of the main parts does not affect this. But the principle of matching in the direction of the fiber remains the same.
- After the tenons have been cut out and their size has been checked, the wood must be slightly dried. This refers to the usual keeping of the material indoors throughout the day. This way the wood will be able to take a permanent shape, which will help avoid bending of the joint in the future.
Preparation of the instrument and the first part of the measurements
Measuring straight tenon joints.
Now let’s look at the main and most common option for how you can make a high-quality tenon joint with your own hands. It is based on the use of a conventional file or big saw(depending on the required dimensions).
So, the first thing you need to do is choose a tool. It is important to keep in mind that each file has its own cutting width. Therefore, in the end, part of the tenon will become slightly larger. And how much depends directly on this width. That is why, when measuring connection parameters, take into account the width of the cut.
Now start marking. For this you will need a pencil and a ruler. First, measure the parts that need to be connected to each other. After this, the width of the parts is applied at the site of the future cut. In this case, the depth of the cut itself will be exactly equal to the thickness of the main part.
Typically, many furniture designs may require multiple tenons or mortises on one piece. In this case, it is necessary to focus on how similar they will be. If they are identical, then it is enough to take one measurement. At different sizes produced required amount measurements Also remember the rule: it is advisable to make cuts a little smaller in thick parts, and deeper in thin parts.
Marking of the second part
Tenon joint elements.
After this, we move on to marking the second part of the connection. To do this, you need to take the two parts that are supposed to be connected and attach them tightly to each other. In this case, you need to ensure that it matches the lines of the cuts. When the parts are perfectly attached to each other, it is recommended to clamp them in a vice so that they do not move.
Now that the parts are properly fastened, you need to apply marks with a pencil on the second part that has not yet been marked, and then make the initial cuts with a file. These will not be solid lines, but just thin marks, similar to scratches. But it is still necessary to do them, since it will be easier to work later. Only when making marks, try to do it in such a way as to achieve perfect evenness and avoid bending.
After this, it is necessary to release the parts and move them further relative to each other. It is important to take this into account. If you move the parts just a little by the width of the file, the connection will turn out to be quite rigid. And if you make the shifts a little more, it will be freer.
However, it cannot be said that any of the options is bad. It all depends on the nature and size of the parts being connected. And also on the specific type of wood used. If you use plywood, then you can make shifts only along the width of the cut, since in any case it will not be subject to severe deformation.
Final formation of tenon joints
Methods for tenoning wooden parts.
When all this is done, we move on to the thorough formation of the tenons and grooves. In order for everything to go correctly, you need to constantly take measurements during work in order to eliminate, if possible, the risk of error. Be especially careful about the straightness of the lines. For large parts use a building level for control.
So, the main part of the work is finished: the tenon joints are formed. Now you need to finally measure everything to make sure it is correct, after which you can move on to the final design. For this you can use sandpaper or manual jigsaw. It depends on how rough the surface is.
Connection will follow. It is important to consider the type of connection here. They are detachable and non-detachable. Permanent connections should be stronger and more thorough, and detachable connections should be such that they can be disassembled if the need arises. For permanent connections, glue is used, and for detachable connections, the corners must be slightly rounded.
The option of how you can make tenon joints with your own hands has been considered.
There are several more methods, but they are more complex and more suitable for professionals. But if you don’t rush anywhere, you can gradually acquire skills and perform subsequent work simply.
There are a myriad of joints you can use to join wood pieces together. The names and classifications of joinery and carpentry joints, as a rule, vary significantly depending on the country, region and even school of woodworking. The skill lies in the precision of execution to ensure a properly functioning connection that can withstand the loads intended for it.
Initial information
Connection categories
All connections (in carpentry they are called ties) of wooden parts according to their area of application can be divided into three categories (foreign version of the classification):
- box;
- frame (frame);
- for joining/merging.
Box connections are used, for example, in the manufacture drawers and arrangement of cabinets, frames are used in window frames ah and doors, and joining/merging is used to obtain parts of increased width/length.
Many connections can be used in different categories, for example, butt connections are used in all three categories.
Preparation of material
Even planed lumber may need some preparation.
- Cut the material with a margin of width and thickness for further planing. Don't cut the length yet.
- Choose the best quality surface - the front side. Plane it along its entire length. Check with a straight edge.
After final alignment, make a mark for the front side with a pencil. - Plane the front - clean - edge. Check with a straight edge and a square against the front side. Use planing to smooth out any warping. Mark the clean edge.
- Using a thicknesser, mark the required thickness along all edges of the part contour. Plan to this risk. Check with a straight edge.
- Repeat for width.
- Now mark the length and the actual connections. Mark from the front side to the clean edge.
Marking lumber
Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for the width of cuts, planing thickness and connections.
Take all readings from the front side and the clean edge, on which place the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. To make sorting and assembling easier, number the parts on the front side as they are manufactured, to indicate, for example, that side 1 connects to end 1.
When marking identical parts, carefully align them and make markings on all workpieces at once. This will ensure the markup is identical. When marking profile elements, keep in mind that there may be “right” and “left” parts.
Butt joints
These are the simplest of carpentry joints. They can fall into all three categories of compounds.
Assembly
The butt joint can be strengthened with nails driven in at an angle. Drive the nails in randomly.
Trim the ends of the two pieces evenly and connect them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, you can apply glue to the parts to strengthen the fixation. Butt connections frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or corrugated key with outside or with a wooden block secured from the inside.
Pin/dowel connections
Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These insertable round tenons increase shear (shear) strength and, due to the adhesive, secure the assembly more reliably. Dowel joints can be used as frame joints (furniture), box joints (cabinets) or for joining/splicing (panels).
Assembling the dowel connection
1. Carefully cut out all components to the exact dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the post.
2. Mark center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end should be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide crossbar may require more than two dowels.
Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar and use the square to transfer them to the rack.
3. Lay the rack and bar face up. Using the square, transfer the center lines to the stand. Number and label all connections if there is more than one pair of posts and crossbars.
4. Transfer these markings to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.
5. From the front side, use a thicknesser to draw a line in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.
Use a thicknesser to draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the holes for the dowels.
6. Electric drill with twist drill or hand drill With a feather drill, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and scorers. The hole across the fibers should have a depth of approximately 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole in the end should have a depth equal to approximately 3 times the diameter. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm; the dowel should not reach the bottom by this distance.
7. Use a countersink to remove excess fibers from the top of the holes. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the joint.
Nageli
The dowel must have a longitudinal groove (now standard dowels are made with longitudinal ribs), along which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then plan it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.
Using centers to mark dowels
Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel centers into the holes for the dowels. Align the crossbar with the post markings and press the pieces together. The points of the centers will make marks on the stand. Drill holes through them. As an alternative, you can make a template from a wooden block, drill holes in it, fix the template on the part and drill holes for dowels through the holes in it.
Using a conductor for a dowel connection
A metal jig for dowel connections greatly facilitates marking and drilling holes for dowels. In box joints, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the faces of wide panels.
conductor for pin connections
1. Mark center lines on the front side of the material where the dowel holes should be. Select a suitable drill guide and insert it into the jig.
2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the movable support of the guide bushing.
3. Install the jig onto the part. Align the centering notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.
4. Install a drill depth stop on the drill in the required location.
Rally
To get a wider wooden part You can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with their wide sides together, align their ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vice. On the clean edge, draw perpendicular lines to indicate the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, use a thicknesser to score marks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the holes for the dowels.
The nail joint is neat and durable.
Notch / mortise connections
A notch, mortise or groove connection is called a corner or median connection, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. Used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.
Types of jack/punch connections
The main types of notch joints are the t-notch in the dark/semi-dark (often this term is replaced by the term “flush/semi-dark”), which looks like a butt joint, but is stronger, the corner notch (corner connection) in the quarter and the corner notch in the dark/semi-dark. A corner notch into a rebate and a corner notch into a rebate with darkness/semi-darkness are made in the same way, but the rebate is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.
Carrying out cutting
1. Mark a groove on the front side of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines to both edges.
2. Using a thickness gauge, mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste portion of the material.
3. Use a C-shaped clamp to securely fasten the part. Saw the shoulders on the outgoing side of the marking lines to the required depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to make it easier to remove the material with a chisel.
Saw close to the marking line on the waste side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.
4. Using a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check that the bottom is even. You can use a primer to level the bottom.
Use a chisel to remove waste, working from both sides, and level the bottom of the groove.
5. Check the fit; if the part fits too tightly, it may need to be trimmed. Check for squareness.
6. The notch connection can be strengthened in one of the following ways or a combination of them:
- gluing and clamping until the glue sets;
- screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
- nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
- Nailing obliquely across a corner.
The notch connection is quite strong
Groove and side tongue joints
This is a combination of a quarter cut and a rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the installation of slopes for window openings.
Making a connection
1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. Mark the shoulder on one part, measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and the front side.
2. Mark the second shoulder from the end side; it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue on both edges.
3. Using a thickness gauge, mark the depth of the groove (one-third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the shoulder lines.
4. Using a hacksaw, saw through the shoulders to the thickness line. Remove waste with a chisel and check the alignment.
5. Using a thicknesser with the same setting, mark a line on the back side and on the edges of the second part.
Adviсe:
- Mortise and tongue-and-groove joints can be easily made using a router and a suitable guide - either for the groove only, or for both the groove and the tongue. Recommendations for proper operation of the router, see p. 35.
- If the comb fits into the groove too tightly, trim the face (smooth) side of the comb or sand it with sandpaper.
6. From the front side, use a thicknesser to mark the edges towards the end and at the end itself. Saw along the lines of the planer with a hacksaw. Don't cut too deep as this will weaken the joint.
7. Using a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.
Half-tree connections
Half-timber joints are frame joints that are used to join parts together face to face or along an edge. The joint is made by removing the same amount of material from each piece so that they fit flush with each other.
Types of half-tree connections
There are six main types of half-timber joints: transverse, corner, flush, miter, dovetail and splice.
Making a half-tree corner connection
1. Align the ends of both parts. On the top side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.
2. Set the thicknesser to half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one piece and the bottom side of the other piece.
3. Clamp the part in a vice at an angle of 45° (faces vertical). Saw carefully along the grain, close to the thickness line on the waste side, until the saw is diagonal. Turn the piece over and continue cutting carefully, gradually lifting the saw handle until the saw is aligned with the shoulder line on both edges.
4. Remove the part from the vice and place it on the surface. Press it tightly to the tsulaga and clamp it with a clamp.
5. Saw the shoulder to the previously made cut and remove the waste. Use a chisel to smooth out any unevenness in the sample. Check that the cut is neat.
6. Repeat the process on the second piece.
7. Check the fit of the parts and, if necessary, level them with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps or backlash.
8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, and glue.
Miter corner connections
Miter corner joints are made by bevelling the ends and hide the end grain and are aesthetically more consistent with the angular rotation of the decorative trim.
Types of miter corner joints
To bevel the ends in corner connection The angle at which the parts meet is divided in half by an angle. In a traditional connection, this angle is 90°, so each end is cut at 45°, but the angle can be either obtuse or acute. In uneven miter corner joints, parts with different widths are connected.
Performing miter joints
1. Mark the length of the pieces, keeping in mind that it should be measured along the long side, since the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.
2. Having decided on the length, mark a line at 45° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.
3. Using a combination square, transfer the markings to all sides of the part.
4. When manual cutting use a miter box and a hacksaw with an edge or a hand one miter saw. Press the piece firmly against the back of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will be uneven and the joint will not fit well. If you are simply sawing by hand, watch the process so as not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A power miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.
5. Place the two pieces together and check the fit. You can correct it by trimming the bevel surface with a plane. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp plane, setting the knife overhang to a small extent.
6. The connection should be nailed through both parts. To do this, first place the parts on the surface and drive nails into the outer side of the bevel so that their tips slightly appear from the bevels.
Place nails in both parts so that the tips protrude slightly from the surface of the bevel.
7. Apply glue and press the joint tightly so that one part protrudes slightly and overlaps the other. First, drive nails into the protruding part. Under the blows of the hammer when hammering nails, the part will move slightly. The surfaces must be level. Nail the other side of the joint and countersink the nail heads. Check for squareness.
Drive the nails into the protruding part first and the hammer will move the joint into position.
8. If due to unevenness of the workmanship there is a small gap, smooth the connection on both sides with the round blade of a screwdriver. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, you will either have to redo the connection or seal the gap with putty.
9. To strengthen the corner connection, the miter can be glued inside the corner wooden block, if it is not visible. If important appearance, then the connection can be made using a tenon or secured with veneer dowels. Dowels or lamellas (standard flat plug-in tenons) can be used inside flat joints.
Miter splicing and cutting connection
A miter splice connects the ends of parts that are located on the same straight line, and a rip splice is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.
Miter splicing
When miter splicing, the parts are connected with identical bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.
Connection with cutter
A connection with a cut (with a cut, with a fit) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in a corner, for example, two plinths or cornices. If the part moves during the process of fastening it, the gap will be less noticeable than with a miter joint.
1. Secure the first baseboard in place. Move the second plinth located along the wall close to it.
Clamp the first baseboard in place and press the second baseboard against it, lining it up with the wall.
2. Run a small wooden block with a pencil pressed to it along the profile surface of the fixed baseboard. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth being marked.
Using a block with a pencil pressed to it, with the tip pointed at the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the cut line.
3. Cut along the marking line. Check the fit and adjust if necessary.
Complex profiles
Place the first plinth in place and, placing the second plinth in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the required shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.
Lug connections
Lug joints are used when it is necessary to connect intersecting parts located “On the edge”, either in a corner or in a middle version (for example, a corner window sash or where the table leg meets the crossbar).
Types of lug connections
The most common types of eyelet connections are corner and T-shaped (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but it can be strengthened with a dowel.
Making an eyelet connection
1. Mark the same as for, but divide the thickness of the material by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part you will need to select the middle. This groove is called an eye. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a tenon.
2. Saw along the grain to the shoulder line along the marking lines on the waste side. Use a hacksaw to cut out the shoulders, and you will get a tenon.
3. Working from both sides, remove material from the eye with a chisel/mortise chisel or jigsaw.
4. Check the fit and adjust with a chisel if necessary. Apply glue to the joint surfaces. Check for squareness. Using a C-clamp, clamp the joint while the glue hardens.
Tenon to socket connection
Tenon-to-socket joints, or simply tenon joints, are used when two parts are joined at an angle or intersection. It is probably the strongest of all frame joints in joinery and is used in the making of doors, window frames and furniture.
Types of tenon-to-socket connections
The two main types of tenon joints are the usual tenon-to-socket joint and the stepped tenon-to-socket joint (semi-dark). The tenon and socket make up approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The socket is widened on one side of the groove (semi-dark), and a tenon step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. Semi-darkness helps prevent the thorn from being turned out of the socket.
Conventional tenon-to-socket connection
1. Determine the joint position on both pieces and mark all sides of the material. The marking shows the width of the intersecting part. The tenon will be at the end of the crossbar, and the socket will go through the post. The tenon should have a small allowance in length for further stripping of the joint.
2. Select a chisel that is as close in size as possible to a third of the thickness of the material. Set the thicknesser to the size of the chisel and mark the socket in the middle of the post between the previously marked marking lines. Work from the front side. If desired, you can set the thicknesser solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.
H. In the same way, mark the tenon on the end and both sides until you mark the shoulders on the crossbar.
4. In a vice, clamp an auxiliary support in the form of a piece of wood high enough so that you can attach the stand to it, turned “on edge.” Secure the stand to the support, placing the clamp next to the marking of the socket.
5. Cut out a nest with a chisel, making an allowance inwards of about 3 mm from each end so as not to damage the edges when removing waste. Hold the chisel straight, maintaining parallelism
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, placing the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the socket. Repeat from the other end.
6. Make several intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and with the sharpening bevel down. Select a retreat, using the chisel as a lever. Having gone deeper by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue until about halfway thick. Turn the piece over and work the same way on the other side.
7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean out the nest and cut off the previously left allowance to the marking lines on each side.
8. Cut a tenon along the fibers, running a hacksaw along the marking line on the waste side, and cut out the shoulders.
9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the tenon should fit neatly into the post, the connection should be perpendicular and have no play.
10. To secure, you can insert wedges on both sides of the tenon. The gap for this is made in the socket. Working with a chisel from the outside of the socket, widen it to about two-thirds of the depth with a 1:8 slope. The wedges are made with the same bias.
11. Apply glue and squeeze tightly. Check for squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the tenon allowance and remove excess glue.
Other tenon joints
Tenon joints for window frames and doors are somewhat different from tenon joints in semi-darkness, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and/or lining for glass or panel (panel). When making a tenon-to-socket connection on a part with a rebate, make the plane of the tenon in line with the edge of the rebate. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is made shorter so as not to block the fold.
Tenon joints for parts with overlays have a shoulder that is cut to match the profile of the overlay. An alternative is to remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the mating piece.
Other types of tenon-to-socket connections:
- Side tenon - in the manufacture of doors.
- A hidden beveled tenon in semi-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the tenon.
- A tenon in the dark (tenon steps on both sides) - for relatively wide parts, such as the bottom trim (bar) of a door.
All these connections can be through, or they can be blind, when the end of the tenon is not visible from reverse side racks. They can be strengthened with wedges or dowels.
Rally
Wide, high quality timber is becoming increasingly difficult to find and very expensive. Moreover, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes working with them difficult. To join narrow boards along the edges into wide panels for tabletops or workbench covers, they use bonding.
Preparation
Before starting the bonding itself, you must do the following:
- If possible, select radial sawn boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage deformations than tangential sawn timber. If tangentially sawn boards are used, then place their core side alternately in one direction and the other.
- Try not to combine materials with different ways cutting into one panel.
- Do not under any circumstances weld together boards from different breeds wood if they are not dried properly. They will shrink and crack differently.
- If possible, place the boards with the grain in the same direction.
- Be sure to cut the material to size before joining.
- Use only good quality glue.
- If the wood will be polished, select the texture or color.
Rallying on a smooth fugue
1. Lay out all the boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn along the joints at an angle.
2. Plane straight edges and check fit to appropriate adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.
3. Make sure there are no gaps and that the entire surface is flat. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or fill it with putty, the connection will subsequently crack.
4. When planing short pieces, clamp two in a vise, right sides together, and plane both edges at the same time. There is no need to maintain the squareness of the edges, since when joining they will mutually compensate for their possible tilt.
5. Prepare as for a butt joint and apply glue. Using squeezing and rubbing, connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces “suck” to each other.
Other ways to rally
Other bonding connections with different strengths are prepared in the same way. These include:
- with dowels (dowels);
- in tongue and groove;
- at a quarter.
Gluing and fixing with clamps
Gluing and fixing glued parts is important part woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.
Adhesives
The glue strengthens the connection, holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily pulled apart. When working with adhesives, be sure to wear protective gloves and follow the safety instructions on the packaging. Clean the product from excess glue before it sets, as it can dull the plane knife and clog the abrasive sandpaper.
PVA (polyvinyl acetate)
PVA glue is a universal wood glue. In yet wet it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly glues loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong connection and sticks to almost any porous surface. Provides a permanent connection but is not heat or moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, or for large surfaces, dilute with water and apply with a paint roller. Since PVA glue has water base, then shrinks when setting.
Contact glue
Contact glue glues immediately after application and joining of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, press them together. It is used for laminate or veneer to chipboard. No fixation required. Can be cleaned with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Handle it in a well-ventilated area to reduce fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use as it is not moisture or heat resistant.
Epoxy adhesive
Epoxy glue is the strongest of the adhesives used in woodworking, and the most expensive. This is a two-component resin-based adhesive that does not shrink when set and softens when heated and does not creep under load. Waterproof and bonds to almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass ( organic glass). Suitable for outdoor use. In an uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.
Hot melt adhesive
Hot melt, solventless adhesive will stick to almost anything, including many plastics. Typically sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric glue gun. Apply glue, connect the surfaces and compress for 30 seconds. No fixation required. Can be cleaned with solvents.
Fixation clips
Clamps come in a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are needed. Be sure to place a piece of scrap wood between the clamp and the work to avoid indentations from the applied pressure.
Gluing and fixation technique
Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock as necessary to check connections and dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, arranging the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare clamps with jaws/stops set at the required distance.
Frame assembly
Using a brush, spread the glue evenly onto all surfaces to be glued and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess glue and secure the assembly with clamps. Apply even pressure to compress the joints. The clamps must be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.
Place the clamps as close to the connection as possible. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a light but sharp blow to one end of the post can straighten the shape. Adjust the clamps if necessary.
If the frame does not lie flat on a flat surface, tap the protruding areas with a mallet through a block of wood as a spacer. If this does not help, you may need to loosen the clamps or use clamps to secure a block of wood across the frame.
Recommendations from experts on how to make a tenon using a hand router ensure convenient use of this tool in furniture production, load-bearing structures from lumber. Elements of tables and chairs are assembled on spikes of a simple configuration. For the manufacture of cottage frames using half-timbering technology, spikes of complex configurations of increased reliability are used.
Figure 1. Schematic of the root tenon.
To create a tenon with a milling cutter, it is enough to ensure that the workpiece is fixed relative to the guide surface for the sole of the power tool, and to set the required height of the working part - the cutter. Homemade devices made from available materials significantly improve the quality of the tenon, work safety, and are convenient for mass production of identical elements or locking connections on workpieces various sizes, configurations (Fig. 1).
Selection of power tools, cutters
A standard tenon is a double-sided sampling of wood from one edge of the workpiece. Any hand router with a 12 mm or 8 mm collet is suitable for this. Rectangular slot cutter Perfect for processing the two parts used in this connection:
- the side surface and the bottom end are necessary to create a groove;
- the tenon is made by hand milling end edge tool.
Figure 2. Diagram of a device for milling tenons.
Thus, having threaded the cutter once, the master gets rid of the need to reinstall the equipment, which is very convenient during construction and serial production of furniture.
The dovetail tenon is more reliable, durable, and to make it you will need a similar cutter with the same name. However, the adaptation in this case will be completely different. The manual tenon router is a universal tool and therefore does not need to be replaced. This type of power tool has comfortable side handles, a wide sole, and a spindle that is secured against turning when changing equipment. The overhang of the cutter at the moment of cutting cannot be changed due to the side stopper.
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Making a device for picking out a tenon
Unlike professional machine, the working tool is not fixed in space. It is fed onto a stationary workpiece with both hands. Therefore, the manufacture of a device for clamping the part at the first stage is a justified necessity. The simplest device for this is a design (Fig. 2) of fixed guides (upper, lower, side) and a movable bar, which adjusts the length of the sample. To assemble it, you need to perform the following steps:
- fasten the side vertical elements of the same height with the central cutouts to a piece of plywood (along its edges);
- cover them with guides along which the router sole will move;
- install side bars, limiting the movement of the power tool along the upper guides;
- install a movable element on the bottom plywood that regulates the overhang of the edge of the workpiece that is being milled.
Figure 3. Scheme of tenon sampling.
To fix the movable bar, use a standard thumbscrew or special fasteners. The dimensions of all structural elements are selected individually:
- the height of the upper guides is equal to the thickness of the workpiece in which the tenon is made, taking into account a small gap for installing the fixing wedge;
- cutout width in vertical elements depends on the length of the tenon created by a hand router.
To work on this device A manual milling cutter of any modification, manufacturer, is suitable, since most models provide adjustment of the cutting speed, feed, and reach of the working body.
For a dovetail tenon, a device with the opposite principle is used:
- a power tool is fixedly fixed in a sheet of plywood located horizontally;
- its body is located at the bottom, the cutter comes out from the back side of the sheet into a through hole;
- a block of hard wood (beech, birch, oak) is attached to the desktop;
- a 2.5 cm piece of board is fixed on the block, which is consumables(used once with a certain cutter diameter).
Structurally, fixing a hand router in a sheet of multi-layer plywood can be solved with several options - clamps, self-tapping screws. It is important that the fasteners do not protrude working side plywood. The sheet itself can be attached to a workbench, rest on a couple of chairs, or be fixed on several rows of timber, trestles, or scaffolding.
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Tenon selection: straight version, dovetail modification
Video 1 shows in detail how to make a spike at home, making a simple device for a one-time or serial production. The technology for working on the created device for a straight tenon is as follows:
- the part is placed on the lower supporting plane on the side opposite to the movable bar;
- the edge of the workpiece on which the tenon is milled is extended into the cutout of the upper guides until it stops at the movable element at the required distance (tenon length);
- the movable bar is fixed with a thumb or clamp;
- the workpiece is wedged with a special element between its upper plane and the upper guides;
- a manual router is placed on the upper guides;
- the lower end of the equipment removes wood from one side of the tenon;
- the workpiece is turned over, the operation is repeated for the other side of the tenon.
Dovetail connection diagram.
The technology provides high productivity for the same parts. Thanks to the device created once, you can make a tenon on parts of any configuration and size. The router is configured after installing it on the upper guides:
- the cutter is lowered all the way to the bottom plane of the plywood;
- the thickness of the part is measured;
- the equipment is raised to the required height (usually the thickness of the workpiece divided by 4).
Straight tenons for high-quality fixation in reciprocal grooves are usually connected with glue.
This ensures a long connection life and prevents loosening during furniture use. load-bearing frame buildings, structures (Fig. 3).
The choice of cutters for a dovetail connection is arbitrary; experts recommend a groove of approximately half the thickness of the part. A simple method for making a structure with this connection is shown in video 2. The sequence of operations is as follows:
- horizontal placement of a sheet of plywood with a manual router attached to the bottom;
- fixing one side of the guide bar with a screw (the consumable piece of the board is attached to the beam from the side of the cutting tool);
- installing the guide bar at the required distance from the center of the cutter and fixing its second edge to the plywood with a clamp (the width of the workpiece minus the diameter of the dovetail cutter in the wide part, divided in half);
- cutting the groove to the required length (width of the workpiece with a tenon);
- installation of the guide beam at the required distance for removing the tenon (the clamp is removed, the cutter cuts into the consumable piece of the board in such a way that from it vertical plane the distance to the center of the cutter is: the width of the part minus the width of the groove, divided in half);
- fastening the second side of the guide beam with a clamp;
- sampling the side surfaces of the workpiece.
After fitting the tenon into the groove, the thickness of the tenon is adjusted. It should fit into the mating groove without force, with a small gap necessary to accommodate adhesive composition. If necessary, the guide beam is shifted, and milling is repeated until this condition is met.
The tenon-groove connection is the strongest and reliable connection. It is widely used in carpentry workshops in the production of furniture, window frames and other products. Also, many home craftsmen resort to using this method of fastening elements during some kind of repair or construction work at home, in the country or personal plot. But without knowing how to properly make a tongue-and-groove joint with your own hands, you can not only fail to achieve the required quality, but simply waste your time!
So let's look at all the tricks of this matter. First you need to decide on the list of required tools. It includes:
How to make a tongue-and-groove connection
Making a tongue-and-groove joint with your own hands is not that difficult. For the first time, of course, on this work It will take quite a long time for an inexperienced performer. But with experience, creating such a connection will be done quite quickly. And as a result, it will not be difficult for the contractor to independently carry out various carpentry works, including the manufacture of wooden window frames, in which the main thing is the tongue-and-groove connection. 
