Insulation of a wooden house - warm seam. Warm seam technology for insulating wooden houses, description and video. What is the consumption of sealant when sealing a wooden house?

I never thought that the house could be warm without radiators and bottles of hot water. At our dacha stove heating and in winter I had to get up at night to add firewood and fill my hot water bottle so I could put it in bed and stay warm. But after the guys insulated the seams in my house, the outside and inside of the house became warm and cozy. And now I heat the stove three times less - once a day. Thank you for the work done!

Alexey A.

I called, they came, we agreed, they did as promised, on time and with high quality. Well done! They know their business and do not undertake the impossible. I had wishes that, as it turned out, were very difficult to fulfill in practice. Nikolai immediately suggested a suitable alternative and clearly explained why it should be done this way. Now my house looks like new! I also want to update the fence! Will you give me a discount?

Milena A.

I saw friends’ photos of their house with fire and I really liked it. I contacted the guys and now I have a very beautiful bathhouse! Neighbors come by to look and I recommend these wonderful guys to everyone! By the way, in one of the pictures there is also my nice bathhouse) Thank you!

Yuri H.

My son and I decided to seal the seams, did some shopping at the market, and two weeks of my vacation flew by like one day. First, our entire wall was washed away by the rain! It just washed away! I couldn't believe it! I had to do it again. On next year I discovered that the sealant was cracked in some places. I decided to buy a normal and proven one, came to Mytishchi to choose a color, and then it turned out that they know how to apply it properly. They did everything correctly. At the same time I learned that a cord is a must. In general, thank you! It was necessary to contact them immediately. And so I wasted both time and money to no avail.

Development of technology for sealing walls of panel-type houses

The first large-panel housing construction appeared in Europe in the 20s of the last century; the speed and low cost of construction made this type of construction especially widespread in socialist countries by the 60s and 70s. Mass development of Soviet cities and towns with a series of large-panel houses made from materials produced by numerous house-building factories, despite all the shortcomings of this development in aesthetic and architectural plan, allowed me to improve my living conditions millions of families. There are no analogues in the world of such large-scale construction of fairly comfortable and modern housing, from the predominantly agricultural and peasant country of the USSR for short term turned into a power with a significant predominance of urban population. The "Warm seam" technology in Western countries is used mainly in the construction of wooden buildings; in Russia, warm seam is more often a technology for repairing and sealing seams of interpanel joints in panel buildings. A warm seam can significantly improve the performance characteristics of buildings even in the Russian climate. In the Moscow region, it is widely used by the Directorates of the Single Customer (DEZ) as a type of repair sealing during current and major renovation joints.

Causes and consequences of destruction of interpanel seams

During the construction of a building, interpanel joints are sealed and protected, but in the first few years of operation of the structure, inevitable shrinkage occurs wall panels, shift of panels due to uneven settlement of individual parts. The size of these deformations is about 30 - 35% of the deformations that are caused by temperature effects, which also inevitably have an adverse effect on the sealant. Tension-compression from temperature fluctuations and changes in air humidity is not the only unfavorable factor; the sealant at the joint of panels is affected by environmental factors such as icing, acid rain, and UV irradiation. IN middle lane In Russia, the total opening of sealants at panel joints is 4.5 - 5 mm per year. As a result of this natural aging, the average lifespan of polyurethane sealant before complete loss performance characteristics is no more than 15 years.

The main and most serious problem of panel buildings is the destruction of seams and deformation of interpanel joints, which reduces their service life. The consequences of this are expressed in the freezing of external panels in winter, and in the leakage of walls during precipitation. Much more unpleasant consequence violation of the tightness of joints is the complete destruction of the enclosing structures of buildings, reinforcement of panels connected by welding. The metal frame of reinforced concrete, according to research results, shows that it rusts by 0.3 mm per year if it is exposed to direct atmospheric exposure. The danger of spontaneous destruction of any part of the walls, which will lead to an emergency condition of the entire building, is a real threat to the safety of people in the building or near it.

Sealing of interpanel joints using the "Warm seam" technology

Sealing of interpanel joints during repairs takes place mainly with outside design, does not require the resettlement of residents and often does not cause them any inconvenience at all. High-altitude work repairs can be carried out using scaffolding, aerial platforms, and with the help of industrial climbers. The last method is often the most optimal, especially since sealing interpanel seams industrial climbers allows work without a comprehensive renovation of the entire house; the outer walls of one single apartment can be sealed.. An industrial climber has significant freedom in actions at height, not limited by the fencing of a scaffolding site or cabin, therefore the quality of their work is usually higher. Sealing work at height is also used when processing newly installed metal-plastic windows, canopies, balconies, loggias, etc. Industrial mountaineering is a rather dangerous job; an industrial climber must be able to work with climbing equipment, clearly know the methods of belaying and providing first aid in emergency situations. Persons who have undergone the necessary instruction, medical examination and special training are allowed to work, with state-issued certificates from a licensed Ministry of Education educational institution. Retraining of industrial climbers takes place at least once every 2 years.

Repair work to restore the sealing of interpanel joints using the “warm seam” technology starts with processing the joints - they are cleaned by hand from dirt, paint residues, traces of old sealant, and areas peeled off with mortar residues. Then, if necessary, the cracks are repaired and sections of the concrete facade are restored at the points of contact between the outer panels. The procedure for insulating the seams is carried out, since sealing the seams, if quality is paramount, is possible only on a completely dry edge of the joint. The fully and thoroughly cleaned and completely dry joint is filled with polyurethane heat-protective sealant. When it hardens, it expands and fills all the voids. On the uncured sealant along the entire length of the joint, without breaks and slightly lower relative to the surface of the facade, insulation - porous or hollow material - is laid and compressed by 15-50%. The final phase of sealing joints is coating the joint cavity with a special mastic. Mastic will protect the joint from solar radiation. Wide joints may require repeated joint cavity filling procedures. Sealing and thermal insulation is carried out at temperatures from +35 to -15°C. The “warm seam” technology in the construction of wooden buildings is usually limited to only a special sealant, without sealants, but for panel structures, the use of elastic porous sealants is mandatory.

Sealants

Sealants used in the repair of interpanel joints using the “warm seam” method differ in the material of the polymer binder base- either silicone (organosilicon) sealants, or polysulfide (thiokol), acrylic, polyurethane. Silicone sealant hardens when exposed to air and is resistant to temperature changes and harsh climatic conditions. However, it is inelastic, susceptible to deformation and often breaks at the point of stress. It is not universal, contains a solvent, and interacts (sticks) differently to different building materials. Besides silicone sealant cannot be painted, and its cost is quite high. Acrylic sealants are rarely used when sealing joints from the inside, since they are deformed by temperature changes and are afraid of moisture. Polysulfide (thiokol) sealants are used to seal interpanel joints, but they require a special preparation technology, as they are two-component. Polysulfide (thiokol) sealants weakly resist deformation and the seams closed by them “slide” and turn black, which does not decorate the appearance of the building. Thiokol sealant can only be applied at temperatures above -10°C. Polyurethane sealants are universal, durable and elastic, polymerize in air, and do not shrink during vulcanization. The consumption of sealant can be accurately calculated, they stick to any material, and you can work with them under any conditions. Interpanel joints sealed using the "Warm Seam" technology with polyurethane sealant are durable and of high quality.

Mastics

Light-protective mastics are used to protect polymer materials from UV radiation. Typically these are two-component cold-curing polyurethane systems. After connecting the components, the mastic looks like a creamy paste, easily applied to the joint being sealed, and over time the mastic becomes a mass similar to rubber. The adhesion (ability to stick) of polyurethane mastics to concrete, cement-sand mortar, polymer sealants and other metal materials is very high. The mastic sets in a period of 2 to 5 hours, the final elastic (8-9 kg/cm), elastic (600%) and strong structure is formed in up to 14 days. Polymerization of the mastic occurs due to contact with atmospheric moisture, and therefore air humidity and water in the joints greatly affect the quality of sealing. It is advisable to prevent moisture from entering the mastic; this leads to the appearance of bubbles in the structure, since polymerization occurs with the release of gas, which causes the mastic to fill all cavities of the construction joint.

Disadvantages of the "Warm seam" technology

These include the rather high cost of repairs that are performed manually using difficult conditions And hazardous conditions. Porous insulation using “warm seam” technology can absorb moisture, which, in turn, will cause the destruction of the material. Thorough sealing cannot always be guaranteed, since the insulation may be unevenly distributed in the seam groove, and in the future it is impossible to determine the location of the leak.

Sources, standards

Regulatory documents: SNiP 3.03.01-87 “Load-bearing and enclosing structures” (Gosstroy of the USSR 04.12.1987 N 280, amendments dated 22.05.2003). Temporary safety rules in industrial mountaineering dated 06/09/2001, "Interdepartmental Commission for Certification of Emergency Rescue Teams, Rescuers and educational institutions on their preparation"

Links

VSN 54-96 Instructions for the technology of sealing and thermal insulation of joints of panels, window and door units using "Macroflex" in residential buildings during repairs

And everything would be fine, yeah “in a barrel of honey, there is a fly in the ointment” . It is environmentally friendly, beautiful, and even warm. But, here are the seams... Indeed, the seams are the weak point in wooden house. We have already spoken separately. But, recently, warm seam technology has been increasingly used for wooden houses made by hand. What is her role? Here's what experts from one company say:

« Proper insulation of a log house begins with caulking. Sealant is not a replacement, but only a good addition. The insulation must be laid flush, Valiterm must be laid, and then sealed. The goal when insulating is to fill the entire inter-crown space. But it is important to do everything right. The sealant should not come into contact with the insulation. Otherwise, over time it will crack.”

.

So, we had several questions and the first of them: what is Warm Seam technology?

Conventional methods of thermal insulation of seams in a wooden house have 3 significant drawbacks:

  • Allow moisture and insects to enter the room;
  • Requires regular replacement;
  • Being pulled apart by birds.

How to improve the insulation system of the inter-crown space? This is why the “Warm Seam” system has been developed.

Its essence is that a special sealant is applied over the insulation and a special cord at the junction of the logs. It smoothes out beautifully and after painting (even colorless) becomes invisible. However, it protects seams well from blowing and moisture.

Required materials and choice of sealant

How much and what will be needed to carry out such work with your own hands? Taking into account the above quote, we will take into account that the initial insulation of the seams has already been done. And that means we need the following materials:

  • Acrylic sealant for wood;
  • Thermal insulation cord.

From the tools:

  • Gun (manual, but preferably pneumatic);
  • 2 spatulas (small - for the size of the seam and large for ease of removing excess from the first one);
  • Brush (to remove excess);
  • Possible: sponge and spray bottle (water sprayer)

“If you work on large volumes (from 200 meters), use an air gun. Your hand will get tired much less.”

Arkady Krasnov, “Siberian wooden houses.”

Now all that remains is to choose the sealant. First of all, the sealant can be sold in buckets, usually 15-25 kg, and tubes of 600 ml.

As you probably guessed, buying in larger quantities is always cheaper.

Like with Coca-Cola - what bigger bottle, the lower the price per liter.

Although, using buckets is not so convenient during the work process, and, naturally, takes longer.

The sealant also differs in color; you need to choose one that is suitable for painting.

  • Eurotex;
  • Neomid;
  • Remmers.

There are many more options, but most people choose one of the three above. As usual, American or German ones are higher in quality and price than domestic ones.

Price

As already said, the tube is more expensive. One tube of 600 ml is enough for an average of 4-6 linear meters. It depends, of course, on the thickness and unevenness of the seam, as well as the experience of the finisher. The cost of a tube of German Remmers, for example, is 430 rubles. In this case, in the best case scenario, the cost of 1 meter of seam will be 72 rubles. A 25 kg Eurotex bucket costs approximately 7,300 rubles. When using such a sealant, the cost of one meter will be 28 rubles.

By the way, a warm seam for wooden house can be ordered from the contractor. However, the price of such a service will cost 150-170 rubles per linear meter. In a day, a novice specialist can do 50-200 meters. (Much depends on the size/evenness of the seams and personal abilities).

If you decide to apply it yourself or check the craftsmen for lice, the technology for applying the sealant is described below.

Application technology

The technology essentially consists of 6 main stages:

  • Laying insulating cord. Its task is to fill the inter-crown space. It makes no sense to use a more expensive sealant for this, and filling the space with it is quite problematic. It is reasonable to use sealant as a top, fixing layer.

  • Applying sealant using a gun. For this purpose, the tube is inserted into the cavity of the gun (or the sealant is drawn directly from the bucket). After this, the nose is cut off at 45 degrees, to the size of the seam. Next, the sealant is applied as polyurethane foam. Some installers use tape, gluing it as a frame for the borders of the seam. This allows you to avoid staining the timber and collect excess after application. After application, the tape comes off almost immediately. However, after gaining experience, you are unlikely to need such a procedure. Professionals apply the “Warm Seam” without tape to a length of 1.5 to 2 m in one pass and very evenly.

  • If excess sealant gets on the crowns, immediately remove them with a damp rag.
  • Wet a small brush and use it to smooth out the seam layer.

  • If there is a lot of excess, you can use a small spatula to remove it.

  • Now all that remains is to lightly walk along the seam damp cloth for final alignment.

Some people use a sponge and spray for these purposes. In this case, the seam becomes glossy.

Corners and cuts

The difficulty, especially with the first experience, is the corners and cuts. In fact, sealing such areas is carried out in the same way as straight seams.

  • Measure and cut pieces of cord of the required length in advance;
  • Place the cord (you can use a spatula or brush to tuck it in);
  • Apply sealant;
  • Carry out the alignment procedure described above.

It can be noted that in general, the application process is not particularly difficult. Although, making a warm seam for wooden houses is a very tedious job. So be patient and/or the reliable “Russian way”.

Below in a series of photographs you can see the entire process step by step.

And a video with step-by-step instructions:

Technology FAQ

Will the sealant be beneficial if it is applied to already caulked seams?

Certainly. The answer has already been given at the beginning of the article. Proper application of a warm seam involves caulking, laying of Valiterm and cord. However, it is important that the insulation does not come into contact with the sealant.

Should smudges be removed immediately after leveling or after drying?

To avoid leaving traces, it is better to remove it immediately, but carefully so as not to touch the sealant.
Which seal to choose, inside or outside?

The short answer is that both types are needed. External, will protect the house from moisture, insects and blowing. External sealing also serves as waterproofing. However, the seams also need to be protected on the inside. For example, from moisture formed in the room itself.

Can it be applied to winter time?

This depends on the type of sealant. For example, Accent-136 can be used at temperatures from -10 degrees. There are also more “heat-loving” analogues.

Ecologically pure wood has long been considered an excellent material for building a house. Huts or log cabins built from wood are good because you can breathe easily in them. In summer, such buildings do not heat up much like brick or stone houses, and it’s comfortable to be in them even in the heat, and in frosty winters, wooden walls retain heat well, not letting the cold into the room. For these reasons, many people prefer to build their dachas and country houses made of wood.

However, along with the above advantages, wood also has many disadvantages. Thus, under the influence of natural factors it is subject to deformation and damage. Moisture causes wood logs to swell, and in dry weather they dry out. All this leads to the fact that cracks begin to appear between the crowns of the log house, through which winds and cold can penetrate into the house, and rain and dampness are the causes of rotting of the wood and its gradual destruction. But these processes can be prevented if the log house is insulated in a timely manner and the joints of the logs are sealed. The salvation of the home is the high-quality sealing of the seams between the crowns. What materials are best to use for sealing walls and how to properly seal seams in a wooden house?

Is it worth caulking a wooden house?

The most famous inter-crown insulation materials are considered to be moss, hemp and tow. The advantages of these natural materials are resistant to temperature fluctuations, bactericidal and mold fungi, low thermal conductivity, good moisture absorption. But fewer and fewer people who build log houses use these materials to seal seams in a wooden house. Why has the demand for moss, tow and hemp decreased so much?

The process of caulking cracks and spaces between the crowns is quite labor-intensive and lengthy, because you need to carefully and evenly plug them with natural materials using a chisel. The walls cannot be caulked immediately after the construction of the log house, since its shrinkage will take at least a year, and during this time moisture can already begin its destructive work. The disadvantage of caulking tow and moss is the fact that this process will need to be repeated more than once. The thing is that birds love to “steal” materials from people to build nests. By pulling moss and tow out of cracks and joints, they disrupt the integrity of the seal and cause wooden log house a sloppy, disheveled look. Winds also worsen the appearance of walls. As for material such as hemp, it is susceptible to attacks by moths, which, through their activity, harm the seal.

Knowing these shortcomings of natural insulation, manufacturers of building materials produce more advanced sealants to improve the quality of insulation of all cracks and seams of a wooden house. What are they good for? modern insulation materials walls?

Return to contents

How to insulate walls with tape tow and linen rope?

One of the improved sealants is natural tow in rolls. It is made from flax, which is first well combed on carding machines, then the fibers are polarized and turned into a 15 cm wide ribbon. Next, the fibers are cleaned of various impurities. The result is excellent noise and thermal insulation material with good waterproof properties.

Unlike ordinary tow, tape tow is easier and more densely placed between joints; although it is soft, it is not so brittle.

Thanks to the naturalness of the material, the walls of the log house breathe well and do not rot. Tape tow seams are more durable and are not easily pulled out of cracks by birds. Stacked roll material, as usual, along the crowns and along their edges using a chisel or a special caulk spatula, carefully tucking the edges of the tape inside each seam and crack. The result is a reliable seal between the logs, and the appearance of the log house is quite attractive.

A house insulated with linen rope looks even more beautiful. This sealing of seams is called rope sealing. Three-strand flax rope is used as insulation, which is secured to the seam using staples or nails. Needed for work following materials and tools:

  • tape measure or ruler;
  • scissors;
  • linen rope;
  • hammer;
  • short nails;
  • metal staples;
  • brush;
  • wood impregnation.

The purchased linen rope is placed along the line of the inter-beam seam and every 15 cm, after pulling it well, a bracket or nail with a small head is driven into the beam. At the corners of a wooden house, the distance between fasteners may be smaller. To make the rope sealing of seams look aesthetically pleasing, when driving in nails or staples, perform the following action: first, open the strand of rope a little, then hammer in the fasteners, tuck the rope itself to the wall of the log house and tighten it. The strand is closed, and the staple or nail head is hidden underneath from prying eyes.

When sealing the seams with natural linen rope is completed, care should be taken to ensure its safety for a long time. To do this you need to take protective impregnation for wood and carefully treat all rope edges with it. You can perform this procedure by impregnating the log walls themselves at the same time. Despite the fact that the process of sealing all the seams of a wooden house is quite long, it is simple and can be done without the help of other people. Rope insulation of seams in a wooden house is highly reliable, perfectly protects the log house from moisture and gives the structure an unusual but attractive appearance.

Terma Chink- professional acrylic “warm joint” sealant for a wooden house with excellent adhesion to wood, brick, plaster, natural stone, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, PVC, metal (tin, galvanized), etc.

Application area

"Warm joint" for wood is used for long-term sealing of log joints in wooden houses, rounded logs and beams, as well as for sealing end and side cracks in wood and sealing seams and joints various designs made of wood indoors and outdoors of all types of buildings and structures. The sealant is a material completely ready for use. After curing, it forms an elastic, rubber-like material.

Properties and Features

  • has no smell;
  • has high elasticity;
  • provides effective thermal insulation Houses;
  • resistant to atmospheric influences, incl. to ultraviolet radiation;
  • has high vapor permeability;
  • surface painting and tinting of the material are possible;
  • can be applied to damp, but not wet, surfaces;
  • "Warm seam" sealant can be applied to horizontal, vertical, inclined surfaces with positive and negative angles of inclination;
  • long-term sealing of seams in building structures with deformability 25%.

You can buy a “warm seam” for a wooden house in Moscow from the manufacturing plant “OLIVA” by placing an order on the website or by contacting by phone 8-495-651-6574.

Consumption

The approximate mass consumption is calculated using the formula:
Mp=btV (kg/l.m), where: b- seam width (m), t- thickness of the sealant layer (m), V - specific gravity(1350 kg/m 3)

Specifications

Consistency Thixotropic paste (non-flowing)
Compound Aqueous polymer dispersion, modifying additives, pigment, filler.
Drying time, h Surface film formation time - 1 hour
Hardening time, h No more than 24 hours with a thickness of 2 mm
Elongation at break at 20°C, % At least 700%
Density, kg/l 1.35 kg/l
Tensile strength at uniform tearing, kg/cm² At least 10
Projected service life At least 30 years
Recommended application temperature, °C from +5°С to +35°С
Resistance to vapor permeation 0.25-0.3 m2 h.Pa/mg
Dry residue, % At least 72%
Operating temperature, °C from -40°С to +80°С
Technical conditions (TU) 2257-001-13344853-14
Tinting Standard colors: white, gray, larch, pine, golden pine, oak, walnut, rosewood, honey, teak. Can be tinted in other colors.
Guaranteed shelf life, months. 24 months

Surface preparation

Clean surfaces from dirt, dust, grease, loose particles, residues cement mortar, remnants of previously used sealing materials, impregnations, varnishes and glazing compounds, etc.

When working in winter, clear the surface of ice and frost. It is possible to apply the sealant to both dry and wet surfaces. The presence of dripping moisture on the surface is unacceptable!

DO NOT apply sealant during rain or snow! In hot weather with low air humidity, surfaces can strongly absorb moisture; in this case, it is recommended to pre-moisten the surface with water using a sprayer.

Application method

The sealant is applied to the prepared surface using a spatula or special hand or pneumatic guns. Voids and leaks are unacceptable. The recommended thickness of the sealant layer is from 2 to 3.5 mm. The surfaces of the applied sealant are given the required form using special templates. To prevent the sealant from sticking to the tool, use soapy water. For improvement appearance It is recommended to limit the edges of the seam before applying sealant masking tape, after applying the sealant (after 30-40 minutes), remove the tape.

Drying time

The formation time of the surface film is 1 hour (at + 23ºС and 60% humidity). Curing time with a layer thickness of 5 mm 24 hours (at + 23ºС and humidity 60%)

Cleaning the instrument

Washable in non-vulcanized state warm water. In the vulcanized state, it is removed mechanically.

Storage

In a tightly closed container at a temperature from +4°C to +40°C. Can be transported and stored at low temperatures. For frost-resistant sealant, up to 7 cycles of freezing and thawing are allowed (a cycle is no more than 1 day) at temperatures down to -18ºС, or a single freezing down to -18ºС, but for a period of no more than 7 days. Defrosting is carried out without additional heating at temperatures up to +22ºС. Keep out of the reach of children. Shelf life 24 months from the date of manufacture.

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