Roof installation is a multi-stage process. difficult process. To install and assemble the rafter system yourself, you will need to thoroughly study the methods of connecting elements, select necessary materials, calculate the angle of inclination and length of the rafters. Step-by-step instructions will help you make a roof with your own hands.
Roofing device
Having chosen the design for gable roof, move on to design. You can create a project with drawing documentation yourself, if you have computer skills and knowledge of architectural programs (for example, ArchiCAD.) If you don’t have them, it’s better to seek advice and help from a professional. Everything is allowed project work delegate to specialized organizations.
You need to know the structural elements and materials for its construction in order to understand how to make a gable roof with your own hands.
A standard gable roof consists of the following elements:
Choosing a rafter system
When deciding how to make a gable roof, you should choose what the rafter system will be. A hanging rafter system is chosen when the distance between the external walls is no more than 10 m and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle. With this system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle, connecting them with nails. The installation of beam ridges and racks is excluded. From below rafter legs rest on external walls. The absence of racks allows the use attic space for arranging an attic. The function of tie bars is often performed by floor beams. To organize the upper structure, it is recommended to install the tie from the ridge at a distance of 50 cm.
It is more justified to equip a layered rafter system if there is a supporting central wall. Lay a bench on the wall and attach it to it support posts, a ridge beam is nailed to them. This installation method is economical and easy to implement, if indoors ceilings are designed at different levels. The attic is divided into two halves by a brick wall.
The assembly of the rafter system begins with the installation of the Mauerlat strictly horizontally. Before you begin installation, you must carefully check the walls to which it is attached. If necessary, they are leveled with cement mortar. Work can continue when the solution reaches 50% strength.
Depending on the system, the Mauerlat can be a board measuring 50*150mm or a beam with a section of 150*150. It is attached to the top row of the wall masonry. In a wooden structure, its role is played by the upper crown.
If the walls are made of aerated concrete or foam concrete, a reinforced concrete reinforced belt must be made on top of the last row to redistribute the load. Embedded fasteners - pins or wire - are embedded into it. A board or beam is placed on them.
There are several ways to connect the Mauerlat and walls:
The distance between the wires (studs) should be less than 120 cm. It is necessary to place them under the Mauerlat on the wall. cut-off waterproofing: hydrosols lm roofing material rolled in two layers. You can miss bitumen mastic.
Installation of rafters
First, you need to decide on the required cross-section of construction legs. This value is calculated depending on the distance between the rafters and their length. It is important to consider the use of insulation. The distance between the rafters should be such that there is no need to waste time and effort on cutting thermal insulation material.
There are several types rafter systems(more than a dozen). Having chosen the one that suits you best, you should make a template from thin boards for notches, cuts and other details. Often the first mold is made on the roof, then a template is made from it.
The assembly procedure varies depending on the type of rafter system. Sloping rafters are installed gradually. They are assembled from elements on the roof. It is very convenient in this case if the ceiling beams and rough attic flooring have already been laid.
For a hanging rafter system, the truss is assembled on the ground. It consists of a triangle of rafter legs and a tie with all the posts and struts. First you will need to draw up a drawing, calculating the connection angle and the length of the rafters. Typically the roof angle is 35-40 degrees. However, on heavily blown, open areas it is made less - 15−20 degrees. To determine the angle of connection of the rafters, you need to multiply the angle of inclination of the roof by 2.
The length of the rafter legs is calculated based on the connection angle and the length of the run between the external walls. Taking into account the eaves overhang(50−60 cm wide), it is most often 4−6 m.
The upper ends of the rafters are secured in different ways:
- end-to-end;
- overlap;
- with cut grooves.
They are fixed with bolts or metal plates. Next, install the upper and lower ties.
Having collected the required number of trusses, they are lifted onto the roof and attached to the Mauerlat. The outer trusses are attached first. The rafters are aligned vertically using a plumb line, adjusting the length of the overhang. The truss must be strengthened with temporary timber jibs so that it does not move during the installation process.
Having secured all the trusses, a board with a cross-section of 50*150mm, 20-30 cm longer than the cornice, is nailed to the upper edges of the slope. The same work is carried out on the other side of the roof.
Roof insulation
When thinking about how to make a gable roof, you should pay due attention to heat and vapor barrier. Roll out parallel to the ridge run roll material, which is attached to the rafters with inside. The joints are overlapped and sealed with tape.
The space between the rafters is filled with insulation from above- mineral wool.
To protect the thermal insulation from moisture, under-roof waterproofing should be installed. It is nailed to the outside of the rafters or secured with staples.
Manufacturing of sheathing
The final stage in the construction of a gable roof is the construction of the sheathing. To do this, use dry timber without knots and cracks. The sheathing bars are nailed to the bottom of the eaves. Two boards near the ridge are attached without a gap. To check the strength of the lathing, a person weighing 70-80 kg can stand on it. If done well, the grille will not bend.
Boards for sheathing a gable roof are selected depending on the type of roof:
The next stage is covering the rafter system with boards. They are stuffed starting from the roof eaves perpendicular to the slats. The sheathing pitch depends on the angle the slope of the slopes and the view roofing. The larger the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.
Having completed the installation of the sheathing, they begin to sheath the overhangs and gables. The gables are covered with boards, clapboard, plastic panels, corrugated sheets or waterproof plywood. It depends on personal preference and financial capabilities. The sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters using screws and nails as fasteners. The lights are also hemmed different materials from siding to wood.
The roof is complex and responsible architectural element any building. Its construction should be treated with special attention; it must be remembered that installing a rafter system requires considerable experience in performing such work and special tools. Those who are holding carpentry and measuring tool– the results of activities can be very negative.
There are two types of roofs depending on the number and placement of rafter support points, but each developer can, at his own discretion, slightly change the specific design of the rafter system. This takes into account the operating conditions of the building, the purpose of the attic space, the climatic zone of the location, technical specifications lumber and roofing. Of course, the type of rafter system is influenced by the personal experience and preferences of developers.
Before you start making rafters, you should decide on their type, method of fastening and linear dimensions. Only in this case can you be sure of the strength and safety of the structure.
How do they influence various factors on rafter parameters?
| Physical factor | Brief description of the effect on rafter parameters |
|---|---|
| The rafters must withstand snow and wind loads. During calculations you need to take from the tables building codes and the rules are the actual maximum values of snow cover, take into account the strength and wind rose. The data allows you to find out the total load on the roof slope depending on its area and angle of inclination. Next, you can determine the size of the rafters, their number and pitch. In this case, a safety factor must be included. The fact is that lumber does not have stable and uniform strength values; too many unforeseen factors influence these indicators. In most cases, 50×150 mm or 50×200 mm boards are used to make rafter legs. |
| Gable roofs can be layered or hanging. For hanging roofs, you need to make rafters from stronger boards. In this case, the method of fixing the elements to the Mauerlat is taken into account. If a notch is made, then the width of the boards should increase by the amount of the notch. The fact is that the cut in this place automatically reduces the width of the material that takes the load. If you make a cross cut 60 mm long on a 200 mm thick board, then only the remaining width of 140 mm is taken into account. Accordingly, if, when calculating the loads, rafters from 200 mm boards are selected, but during fastening unintended cuts of 60 mm are made, then the width of the blanks for the rafters increases to 260 mm. This remark is made for those who like to abuse various notches and cuts for the persistent areas of the ends of the rafters. Currently there are many special devices, allowing you to firmly fix the rafter in the desired position without filing. |
| For residential buildings, rafters must have a safety margin of at least 1.4 of the design values. For non-residential buildings the coefficient is reduced to 1.2. Conclusion - the size of the rafter boards on houses is larger than on garages and other extensions. |
| Residential attic spaces (attics) must have an insulated roof. The width of the rafters must correspond to the thickness of the insulating layer. At the same time, you need to adjust the step between the rafter legs depending on standard width insulation. If in a given climatic zone the optimal thickness of roof insulation is 200 mm, then it is recommended to choose the same width for the rafters. Various extensions of narrow rafter legs during roof insulation are not considered the right solution. |
This knowledge will help you accept right decisions both during the manufacture of the rafters and during their fixation directly in place. Mistakes in the construction of a rafter system are too expensive; you should not be overly self-confident.
What influences the choicesizes andwaysfasteningsrafters
Very important point. The task of any fixation is to ensure the stability of the connection node, while it can be stationary or have one or more degrees of freedom. This cannot be achieved without knowledge of the loads affecting the rafter legs. Loads can be permanent and temporary, dynamic and static, unidirectional and multidirectional.
- Constant vertical forces. Occur due to exposure to roofing and insulation materials roofs. Due to the fact that the rafter legs are located at an angle to the vertical force, they are subject to bending and expansion loads. The magnitude of the forces is determined after constructing the diagram; based on the specific bending and expansion forces, the thickness and width of the boards for the rafters is selected. The fastenings must prevent the rafter system from spreading.
- Variable vertical forces. Appear in winter, the magnitude depends on the depth of the snow cover.
- Lifting wind forces. As a result of gusts of wind, lifting forces are applied to the roof. The dimensions of the rafter legs are not affected; the forces are taken into account only when choosing the type of fixation; it must provide for and support such loads.
- Lateral forces. The value depends on the windage of the roof. As a result of gusts of wind, lateral forces act on the rafter system. They increase bending and tearing loads. This feature also needs to be taken into account during the manufacture and installation of rafter legs.
There are options for rigid fastenings of roof trusses; for this, metal plates, corners, screws and nails are used.
Sometimes it is necessary to use floating rafter connections to compensate for changes in size wooden houses. For floating connections, special fasteners and bolts are used. The second allows the rafter legs at the top to rotate slightly.
Another example of a loose rafter connection is a sliding one. Used on wooden log houses and makes it possible to compensate for the natural shrinkage of the house.
What elements are used to increase the stability and load-bearing capacity of rafters
As a result the right choice rafter system and methods of fixing its elements, the structure must be stable, compensate for natural fluctuations in linear parameters and withstand various loads arising during operation. To fulfill the conditions during fixation of rafters, they can be used additional elements fixation.
Runs
Most often they are mounted in the ridge part of the system; the upper ends of the rafter legs rest on them. To increase stability, cuts may be provided. The top connection is rigid or floating with bolts. On large roofs, purlins can be installed in the middle of the rafters or in other places with critical loads.
VertikAlinen racks
They are installed to strengthen rafters; through the use of racks, elements can be made from thinner lumber. Vertical racks rest against the rafters with their upper ends, and against the bench or ceiling beams ceilings
CornerOpores
Resists bending and expansion forces, universal use. Corner stops can be placed in any places of the rafter leg that cause concerns about strength. Due to such stops, the resistance of rafters to bending and tearing forces significantly increases.
Puffs(crossbars)
Purpose - to keep rafter legs from spreading, used on hanging rafter systems. Most often they are placed in the upper part of the truss; for manufacturing, you can use boards approximately 20-25mm thick. The fact is that they work in tension, lumber holds such forces well. The boards do not work well under compression, quickly sag and lose their original strength.
Knucklehellish
They are used in the upper ridge part of the rafters; due to the use of puffs, the strength of the joint connection is increased. Pulls can be made of wood, plywood, OSB or metal.
Lugs(stops)
They have many specific names. They are ordinary pieces of boards 30–40 cm long and 40–50 mm thick, fixed at the bottom of the rafters. They rest against the mauerlat and prevent the structure from slipping. The use of bosses allows for a rigid connection of elements without sawing down the rafters. We talked about the problems that arise in connection with sawing in this article above.
Prices for various types of timber
Options for connecting the ridge assembly of rafter legs
The ridge is one of the main and most loaded elements of the rafter system. The unit has several connection options; you should choose a specific one depending on the general parameters of the roof.
If the slopes are long, it is better not to use a ridge beam, but instead install two parallel purlins and tie-down crossbars. This design is easier to make, more stable and safe.
For hanging roof you should choose the most reliable methods of connecting rafter legs; these systems have a minimum number of additional stops.
Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters
Rafter fasteners
Step by stepWithThand of mouthAnew rafters
For the rafter legs, 50×200 mm coniferous boards and first-grade lumber are used. The boards cannot have traces of rot or fungus, significant defects or deep cracks. The use of low-quality lumber for the manufacture of rafter systems is strictly prohibited.
To increase the protection of roof elements from rotting, it is recommended to use fire protection.
Rafter blanks should be impregnated at least twice, and the material should be dry and clean. Processing is done on a level area in dry and clear weather.
You can impregnate with a roller, brush or pneumatic remote control. It is not recommended to use household hand sprayers - they are too time-consuming and difficult. The boards can be raised to the top after the impregnation has completely dried.
Our gable roof has a ridge girder; the vertical supports rest against a beam located on the load-bearing wall in the middle of the building.
Practical advice. If the house is quite high and the boards are heavy, then it is recommended for protection window openings make a basic device to prevent damage. To do this, two boards are knocked together in the form of a square; the length and width are selected taking into account the parameters of the opening. The device is installed on the window sill, and the rafter boards do not damage the foam blocks during lifting.
Prices for fire-bioprotective impregnations
Preparatory operations
The production of rafters begins with preparatory operations.
Step 1. Raise rafter boards into the attic. For convenience, place them evenly along the length of the building, place one end on the mauerlat, and the other on the girder. First you need to install the outer rafters on both sides of the roof of the house, stretch a thread between them and install and align all the remaining ones along it.
Step 2. Check the position of the ridge run again. It should be located exactly in the middle of the roof. Its displacement by 1–2 centimeters will not affect the strength of the roof as a whole, but will somewhat complicate the manufacture of rafters and the laying of roofing materials. In addition, an experienced builder may notice a discrepancy in the sizes of the slopes and, accordingly, the asymmetry of the roof. It is recommended to ensure that the ridge run is located along the line of symmetry, unless this is associated with great difficulties. The final decision is made by the foreman on site and depends on the magnitude of the displacement and the amount of work to correct the error.
How to align a run?
- Attach a sheathing board to the mauerlat; it is lighter and easier to lift and fix. The second end should lie on the purlin. The board is nailed to the mauerlat with an ordinary smooth nail or screwed with a self-tapping screw.
- Climb to the top of the purlin and use a tape measure to check the distance from the edge of the purlin to the mauerlats installed on opposite walls. Work very carefully, it is advisable to use insurance. Unfortunately, in practice, few people follow safety rules, but in vain. Falls from height can cause very serious injuries.
- Center the purlin and secure the board. To increase rigidity, fix the same board on the other side of the purlin.
Now everything is ready, you can begin to manufacture and install the rafters.
Installationrafter legs
If you work alone, then you need to screw a piece of lath to the purlin at the place where the first rafter is fixed. The rafter board will be temporarily fixed to it to prevent it from sliding down.
And at this time, you can carry out work on the manufacture and preparation for connecting the upper part of the rafters.
Step 1. Lift and place the rafter board in place, using a clamp, clamp it to the previously attached batten.
Step 2. Draw lines to cut out the stop pad. This is done in two stages. First, draw a horizontal line. To do this, press the rail, square or other flat object tightly against the horizontal surface of the purlin.
Second, draw a vertical line. Now the ruler or square should be pressed against the side surface of the purlin.
Important. The width of the ruler should be no more than 2–3 cm, there is no need to make deep cuts and significantly reduce the width of the rafter leg, it loses its maximum design strength.
Make the same markings at the bottom of the rafters. Only now the ruler needs to be pressed against the surfaces of the Mauerlat.
Step 3. Remove the board and carefully cut out the seats. You can work with a hacksaw or an electric circular hand saw.
Practical advice. If the cuts are made electrically circular saw, then it is better to cut in two steps. First cut to the mark, then turn the board over reverse side and cut again to the mark. Use a hammer to knock out the cut piece, and remove the remaining protrusion with a chisel or chisel. There is no need to go beyond the line with the saw and try to cut off the lip in one go. This method increases the cut by 3–5 cm, depending on the diameter of the disk, which significantly reduces the load-bearing performance of the rafters.
Step 4. Place the prepared rafter in place and check that it is made correctly. Perform the same operations with the second leg of the truss.
Step 5. Place the rafters with emphasis on the mauerlat and purlin, tighten them with a clamp at the top. Find the middle of the purlin and transfer the line to the rafters, use a level or a construction square (only when the plane of the purlin is strictly horizontal).
Step 6. Saw two rafters along a vertical line at the same time. The boards must be tightly clamped with a clamp. Pay maximum attention to ensure that the saw blade is perpendicular to the plane of the rafters. If you saw it obliquely, the ridge joint will not fit tightly, and this reduces the stability of the rafter system and is considered an obvious construction defect.
Step 7 Remove the clamps, connect both elements in the ridge, check the correct position.
If there is a lack of practical experience in performing such work, the first leg may have a gap in the ridge part; if it is within 1–2 mm, then there is nothing to worry about. If it is more than 4 millimeters, then the element needs to be corrected. Look at which planes of the thrust pads do not allow the top cut to fit tightly. Approximately indicate the size of the additional cut. Remove the rafters and remove any interfering protrusions. Check the connection again, if gaps remain, repeat the operation. As practice shows, experience appears on the second or third rafter and no further corrections need to be made.
Step 8 Securely fasten the rafter legs in the correct places. For this it is recommended to use metal plates and corners, working with them is simple and easy, their strength fully meets the requirements for the rafter system.
For each pair of rafters you will need one large reshaped plate to connect the ridge assembly, two 50x50mm corners for fixing to the purlin and two 60x80mm corners for screwing to the Mauerlat. The thickness of the metal is at least two millimeters.
In the same way, install the outer rafters on the other side of the house, stretch the threads between them. One at the top and bottom and one in the middle. To prevent them from interfering during the manufacture of rafters, make a gap of about one centimeter between the thread and the plane.
Real professionals never make one rafter in the attic of a house. This algorithm of work significantly increases construction time, complicates the process itself and makes it unsafe. Work electric tools Unsuitable sites are very dangerous; injuries from them are severe and often cause disability.
If the house is built with high quality and strictly adheres to the dimensions and rules, then the rafter legs are made according to one template on the ground. Ready elements gather on the roof. This technology increases labor productivity by 3–5 times, while at the same time improving the quality of the rafter system, it is more reliable and durable. Of course, the salaries of builders also increase proportionally. They work from the mine and receive money not for the time spent in the attic, but for the assembled roof.
Prices for popular models of screwdrivers
Screwdrivers
Video - Manufacturing and installation of rafters on a gable roof
You can install a gable roof yourself, but you can’t do it without an assistant.
How to build a roof yourself? Let's find out! I'll give you a simple one step by step instructions assembly of a gable roof, developed from personal installation experience at many sites. You will learn how to install a mauerlat, ledge, pediment, rafters, as well as how to install roofing materials.
What you need to know about gable roofing
There are 3 types of roofing systems widely used:
- single-pitched,
- gable,
- hipped.
| Illustration | Type |
| Single-pitch. Despite the ease of construction, it is not functional enough and cannot be installed on every site. | |
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Gable. Unlike a single-pitched roof, a gable roof can be assembled on any construction site. |
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Four-slope. Unnecessarily complex, both in planning and construction. |
A distinctive characteristic of gable roofs is the rafters, spaced at the same distance from each other. The rafters are connected to each other for stability cross members battens.
In this design, an attic space is created between hanging or layered rafters, which can be used as an attic or as an additional utility room.
In front and behind the slopes there are pediments connected to the facade of the building. The gables are made blank or equipped with glazing and ventilation.
In accordance with design features, gable roofs are divided into symmetrical, asymmetrical and broken.
| Illustration | Type |
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Symmetrical- traditional structures in which the rafters are arranged in the shape of an isosceles triangle. |
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With different slope angles- unconventional solutions that are used due to the complex architecture of the building. |
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Pincer (broken)- complex designs with a characteristic break in the middle of each slope. |
Required elements in the design of gable roofs
The diagram shows commonly used roofing system options. What they all have in common is that the mechanical load from the rafter system is transferred to the Mauerlat and through it to the load-bearing wall.
If construction gable roof carried out on small objects, such as a garage, temporary shed, barn, etc., the tightening can be installed not on the Mauerlat, but through a reinforcing belt - on the walls.
To make everything clear in the rafter system assembly instructions, please read the list structural elements and with their purpose.
| Illustration | Description |
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Mauerlat. A beam rigidly fixed to the load-bearing walls, which serves as a support for the rafter legs. Takes on the weight of the rafter system and transfers the load to the load-bearing walls. To make the Mauerlat, hardwood is used, which is not prone to cracking. |
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Rafter legs. Diagonally located supports, which together with the tightening form trusses. The entire roofing pie is installed on the rafter legs. |
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Puff. A horizontal beam that connects the rafter legs at their bottom. Through the ends of the tightening, the load is transferred to the Mauerlat and to the load-bearing walls. |
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Rigel. A horizontal brace installed at the top of a roof truss. This part fastens adjacent rafter legs and is used as ceiling attics. |
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Rack. A vertical beam that connects the purlin and the tie. To do this, the stand is fastened with one end exactly in the center of the tightening, and with the other - at the center of the purlin. |
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Run. A horizontal beam that is attached below the ridge beam. The purlin in the system is needed to connect the rafter legs in their upper part. |
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Sill. A horizontal beam installed in the same way as a purlin, but in the lower part of the rafter system - tightened. Due to the support, the load from the vertical posts and struts falls not on the inner wall, but on the mauerlat. |
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Strut. A diagonal brace that connects the base of the post and the middle of the rafter leg. The strut provides additional rigidity to the roof truss with large area or with a small slope angle. |
What to consider when calculating the roof
In accordance with SNiP 2.01.07-85, rafter systems for low-rise buildings are calculated taking into account the following loads:
- Weight of the rafter system;
- Weight of thermal insulation materials (if a warm roof is calculated);
- Roofing weight;
The most important parameters to calculate the rafter system, these are snow and wind loads. If the total weight of the roof can be controlled by selecting roofing materials, then one has to adapt to the loads of wind and snow.
A large accumulation of snow on the slopes leads to breakage or collapse of the roof. To compensate for the snow load, it is selected correct angle rafter inclination. But too much slope is the reason for the roof covering to break off in strong winds.
The optimal angle of inclination of a gable roof, taking into account snow and wind loads, is 30-45°. As the slope increases, we will get more intense snow shedding, but at the same time the wind load will increase.
The choice of slope angle also depends on the overlap area and the desired dimensions attic space. How larger area attic floor, the greater the angle of inclination of the roof. The relationship between these parameters is shown in the table.
If you plan to install an attic, you can use broken roof. A sloping gable roof with an attic ensures intensive snow shedding even with a slight slope of the slope
Construction of a roof on a house made of aerated concrete blocks
Step 1: prepare building materials
Let's find out how to make a gable roof using the following instructions as an example.
From lumber you will need:
- Boards 200×50 mm - for rafters;
- Boards 150×25 mm - for sheathing;
- Bars 50×40 mm - for counter-lattice.
Before building the rafter system, we treat the harvested lumber with antiseptic impregnations. We do this in advance, because processing an already finished structure will not be easy.
If the price of special antiseptic impregnations exceeds the planned budget, you can use used motor oil. Mining on the surface of the lumber creates a hydrophobic layer that will prevent the boards from rotting.
Step 2: install the Mauerlat
| Illustration | Description of the stage |
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Alignment load-bearing wall . The end of the wall along which we will lay the Mauerlat is not perfectly smooth. Therefore, we level the surface cement-sand mortar or masonry glue. |
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Laying waterproofing. Lay a strip of roofing material on top of the dried solution. This way we will eliminate direct contact between wood and concrete. If there is no roofing material, the surface of the load-bearing wall can be coated with bitumen mastic or simply melted resin. |
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Laying the Mauerlat. Since the roof area will be small, we use not a beam, but a 200x50 mm board as a mauerlat. We lay the board flush with the outer edge of the wall. |
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Marking the Mauerlat for anchors. We make markings so that the anchor is located at a distance of 15 cm from the place where the rafters are attached. We will use anchors 150 mm long with a diameter of 12 mm. We immediately prepare washers, as shown in the photo, so that the bolt presses down the board. |
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We fasten the Mauerlat. We drill the board through with a 12mm wood drill. We pass through the hole into the wall with a 12mm drill and drill 150mm deep. We drive anchors into the prepared holes. We tighten the anchors so that the nut, through the washer, presses the board. |
Step 3: install the bed
This stage is performed in the same way as laying the Mauerlat, and therefore we use the same Construction Materials, and the same anchors. But there is a difference - if one longitudinal board was used as a mauerlat, then we will use two boards laid on top of each other as a bench.
| Illustration | Description of the stage |
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Leveling the surface interior wall
. For this we use masonry mortar, with which we fill the relief.
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Installation of waterproofing. We lay the roofing felt in strips.
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Laying the bed. We lay the plank boards so that their edge is flush with the edge of the wall. |
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Fastening the bed. Drill a hole through two boards to the concrete. Then we use a drill to drill into the concrete to the depth of the anchor. We drive the anchors into the drilled holes and press the wall to the surface of the wall. |
Step 4: install the pediment
The pediment can be laid after the rafters are assembled. But it is better to lay out the blocks in advance, since the finished rafters will interfere with masonry work.
The laying of a pediment from aerated concrete blocks is carried out with an offset of the next row relative to the previous one. For High Quality We use only special glue for masonry.
To ensure that the pediment is level, after laying each new row, we check the correct installation in the vertical and horizontal planes.
Step 5: install racks and purlins
| Illustration | Description of the stage |
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Making the markings of the bed. According to the project roofing system, mark the location of the rafter legs on the floor. We will install the racks according to the rafter location mark, with an indentation of 50 mm. |
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Installing two end posts. We install the outer posts that will be adjacent to the gables. We make the racks from 200x50 mm boards and attach them to the bed with L-shaped hardware and self-tapping screws. Additionally, we fix the racks on the bed with diagonal spacers. |
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Run setup. We fasten the purlin with L-shaped hardware and self-tapping screws. We check the horizontal position of the purlin with a level. If the level is full, we eliminate the difference by filing one of the racks or adjusting the mounting hardware in height. |
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Installing intermediate racks. We do this in the same way as we installed the outer posts, but according to the corresponding marks on the bed. |
Step 6: Installing the Rafters
| Illustration | Description of the stage |
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We transport the boards to the installation site. We calculate the required number of boards and, one by one, lift them up. We lay the boards brought up with one end onto the mauerlat and the other end onto the bench. As a result, there should be two boards near each rack. |
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Purlin alignment. We measure the distance from the edges of the purlin to the mauerlats. Most likely there will be a slight distortion. To level the purlin, we temporarily attach diagonal spacers, as in the photo. |
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We start the rafters for the run. On the run, close to the mark on which the rafter leg will rest, we attach the block. We pull the rafter beam to the beam with a clamp. |
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We make markings for the purlin and Mauerlat. Using a square, we mark the rafters in the part where they will lie on the purlin and on the mauerlat. To get the same markings for the cutout, you can make a template from thick cardboard. But the template can only be used if the rafters are the same width. |
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Cutouts for purlins and Mauerlat. Using a miter saw, we make cuts according to the markings. We apply the prepared board with one edge to the purlin, and the other edge to the mauerlat. We do the same work with the adjacent beam. |
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We try on and cut adjacent rafters. We bring the prepared rafters together on a line, join them and mark them, as in the photo. According to the markings made, we cut adjacent boards so that there is an even joint between them. |
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Fastening the rafters. We connect the rafters with perforated fastening hardware, and fix them on the mauerlat and on the purlin. We install the rafters on the side of the opposite pediment in the same way. |
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Landmark stretch. We mark the same distance on the rafters, for example, a meter from the ridge. We screw in the screws according to the markings. We stretch a cord between the opposite rafters, which will mark the edge of the rafter system. |
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Installation of intermediate rafters. We carry out installation according to the previously made mark. Be sure to check the verticality of the rafters according to the level. |
After the rafters are assembled, we finish work with the gables. At this stage we will make and install additional panels to give the masonry a finished look.
| Illustration | Description of the stage |
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Pediment marking. Along the rafter line we mark the laying of aerated concrete blocks. |
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Trimming blocks. According to the markings made, we cut down the protruding sections of the pediment. |
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Manufacturing of additional elements. We cut out liners from pieces of aerated concrete blocks to the size of the recesses at the end of the pediment. We try on the manufactured additional elements in place and, if necessary, adjust them. |
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Laying additional elements. We make masonry glue and place additional elements in the corresponding recesses. |
Step 7: strengthening the rafters with ties and braces
To make the roof more stable, we will install reinforcing elements - braces and tie rods. We will make reinforcing elements from 200×50 mm boards and attach them to adjacent rafter legs, passing through the rack.
| Illustration | Description of the stage |
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Installing a template. We cut a piece of board 200x50 mm, which we will use as a template. We attach the template at the junction of the stand and the bed, as in the photo. |
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Fastening the tightening. We place a horizontal board on the template, level. We fasten the leveled board along the edges to the rafters with bolts through through holes. We screw the board in the center with self-tapping screws to the stand. |
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Trimming the tie along the rafter line. From the end of the tightening, we mark the line of passage of the rafters. According to the markings made, we cut the edge of the board. |
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Installing the remaining puffs. Following the example of the first puff, we assemble and fasten the subsequent puffs to the opposite pediment. |
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Installation of crossbars. We make spacers from a 150x25 mm board, which we attach close to the bottom of the purlin. We fasten the crossbars with self-tapping screws on the rafters and on the rack. |
Step 8: trimming (trimming) the rafters
| Illustration | Description of the stage |
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Marking of overhangs. The optimal length of rafter overhangs is 50-60 cm. We measure this length along the bottom of the overhang from the wall. We apply a level to the mark we made and draw a vertical line along it. From the vertical line we draw the shape of the overhang, taking into account the subsequent location of the cornice strip. |
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Trimming of overhangs. Using the markings, we cut the end of the rafter leg with a miter saw. We perform a similar operation on all rafter legs, along the perimeter of the roof. The photo shows the overhang of the rafter system - the front cut should be vertical, and the bottom cut should be horizontal. |
Step 9: installation of the roofing pie
| Illustration | Description of the stage |
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Installation of frontal and cornice boards
. In the front part of the overhang, we lay 100x25 mm boards in specially made cutouts. We fasten the boards laid in the cutouts with two self-tapping screws to each rafter leg. |
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Remove from drip protective film . The thick protective film must be removed before installation. Once the bar is installed, it will be difficult to cope with this task. |
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Installation of drip. We attach the drip strip to the roofing nails. We hammer nails along the upper edge of the drip in increments of 30 cm. When hammering nails, we try not to push through the drip, so as not to damage the protective layer of the paintwork. |
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Installing caps on rafters. We cut out the plugs from 150×25 mm boards and install them in the gap between the rafters. The plugs are needed to prevent the mineral wool insulation from sliding down. |
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Preparing the drip line for membrane installation. Glue along the upper edge of the drip double sided tape. We will then attach the vapor-permeable membrane to this tape. |
| Installation of sheathing. We attach the bars to the rafters through a lined vapor-permeable membrane. We install transverse sheathing boards on the bars in 30 cm increments. | |
| Ridge waterproofing. At the level of the ridge, we push the membrane under the sheathing. After this, we tighten the sheathing bars with self-tapping screws. | |
| Trimming the sheathing at the ends of the slopes. We stretch a cord between the ridge and the front board at a distance of 50 cm from the gable. We make markings along the cord. Miter saw We cut the edges according to the marks. |
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| Reinforcing the edge of the sheathing. Along the entire slope we hem the edge of the sheathing with a block. We attach the block to each board with two self-tapping screws. | |
| Installation of roofing material. Sheets metal corrugated sheeting lay it out and fasten it along the sheathing with self-tapping screws and press washers. |
Conclusion
Now you know how to make a gable roof of a house with your own hands. The instructions provided will be helpful during construction. country house or dachas. To learn even more on the topic, watch the video in this article. If you have any questions about the technology and need clarification, write about it in the comments.
The gable rafter system is chosen by many owners of residential buildings. This is due to its high practicality and ease of creation. If you carefully study the structure of the rafter system of a gable roof, then the process of its formation can be done with your own hands. The resulting structure is highly reliable and durable, and also guarantees excellent protection of the structure from cold and precipitation.
Main elements of the system
The design of the gable roof truss system is considered simple. It consists of a variety of elements made from wooden elements, having different lengths, configurations and cross-sections. The main nodes include:
- Mauerlat. It is represented by a beam with a square-shaped cross-section. To create it, it is usually used coniferous wood. Its dimensions vary from 10 to 15 cm. It is laid along all load-bearing walls of the building. It is fixed to them using anchors or special rods. If you make and attach it correctly, it will evenly distribute the loads from the rafter legs along all the walls of the structure.
- Rafter legs. They are created from timber with cross-sectional dimensions of 15x10 or 15x5 cm. When they are properly connected, a roof contour is formed in the shape of a triangle. It must be durable and reliable to withstand heavy loads from rain and wind. The rafter legs should be fastened at a distance of about 1 m from each other.
- Sill. It is created from a square wooden beam, the cross-section of which is equal to . It is laid horizontally on a load-bearing wall located inside the building. Due to it, the load coming from the roof racks is evenly distributed.
- Puff. This element applies if you select hanging structure. It is installed on top of the resulting triangle of rafter legs, which ensures its stability.
- Racks. To create them, a square beam is used. They are located in a vertical position. They bear the load from the ridge, after which it is transferred to the load-bearing wall located inside the building.
- Struts. The installation of these elements is necessary to obtain a special transmission element located between the rafter legs and various load-bearing parts. Due to their reliable connection with a tightening, the creation of a strong structure is guaranteed.
- Lathing. Assembled from bars or boards. Installed perpendicular to the rafter legs. It ensures the transfer of gravity from the roof of the roof to the legs of the rafters. It is advisable to use edged boards. If you plan to create a roof covering from soft roofing materials, for example, bitumen shingles, then the sheathing must certainly be continuous.
- Horse. It is represented by the topmost element of the entire roof. Due to it, its two slopes are connected. Its assembly is carried out by connecting the legs of the rafters at the top of the roof. It must be located in a horizontal position.
- Eaves. It protrudes from each wall of the building by about 40 cm. Its installation is due to the need to protect the walls from water flows resulting from precipitation.
- Fillies. Provides the ability to create a roof overhang. They are used exclusively in situations where short rafter legs are used, so they are lengthened by fillets.
- rafters are made exclusively from high-quality wood, which is free of any rotten areas, damage, knots or other defects;
- to form the sheathing, edged boards are purchased;
- all wood must be well treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
- Load calculation. Any system is affected by two types of load. Permanents will regularly impact the structure, and this includes weight from the roof covering, sheathing, thermal insulation material, waterproofing, additions and finishing materials used for the attic. Typically this load is 40 kg/m. sq. Variable loads can have different strengths, as they include wind, snow exposure and precipitation intensity. To calculate the load, the wind load of a specific region is multiplied by a special correction factor.
- Determination of the angle of inclination. A roof with two slopes may have a different angle of inclination, and it is determined by the roofing material used. If mounted soft roof, then a slope is selected for it ranging from 5 to 20 degrees, or metal tiles vary from 20 to 45 degrees.
- Calculation of snow load. In winter, a large amount of snow can accumulate on the roof. To avoid any problems with the structure, the frame must withstand these loads. To calculate, you need to multiply the weight of the snow by a correction factor.
- Definition . The gap between these elements is usually selected in the range from 60 to 100 cm, and the final choice depends on the roof and the weight of the roof.
- Definition . To do this, it is recommended to use the standard Pythagorean theorem.
- Determination of the rafter section. This parameter is affected by several important factors: roof loads, type of materials used, length of rafter legs, as well as the pitch between them.
- . Suitable for small buildings. Their installation involves fixing the legs to the load-bearing wall of the structure, as well as to the ridge girder. A peculiarity of the use of these elements is that the rafter legs are subject to a bursting force, and to reduce this influence, puffs are used. They can be made of wood or metal.
- Layered. Suitable for roofs of any shape and size. The layered structure is used in conjunction with racks and beds. The bench is laid parallel to the fixed Mauerlat, so a certain part of the load is transferred to it. This allows you to tilt the legs of the rafters towards each other, which are additionally supported by the stand.
- Combined. They are used when using unusual configurations of gable roofs.
- To the walls of the building. Its installation is carried out along their entire length. If the house is made of logs, then the mauerlat acts as its upper crown. If cellular concrete or brick is chosen for the building, then it is mounted on top of the load-bearing wall along its entire length. It is necessary to splice the mauerlat, for which the beams are sawn at right angles and connected with bolts. It can be mounted offset to the side of the wall or in its center. Laying is done on a layer of waterproofing, for which roofing felt is usually used.
- Creation of roof trusses. To do this, it is allowed to install beams on the roof or form a structure on the ground, after which it is raised to the roof. The second option is often chosen, since it is difficult to carry out work on the roof of a house. But to lift the constructed structure you will have to use special equipment. Before connecting the legs of the rafters, their correct size and location are checked.
- . The formed pairs are lifted to the roof, after which they are laid on the Mauerlat. To do the job correctly, special cuts are made at the bottom of the legs. The process begins with the ends of the roof, located opposite to each other. To obtain an ideal result, temporary fasteners are used when installing elements. A rope is stretched between the fixed pairs, making installation of subsequent elements simplified. All rafter legs are mounted, and the correct pitch between them is checked. Next, a special ridge support is installed. All additional elements used in the rafter system are fixed with cutting and staples. It is allowed to lengthen the rafter legs if necessary.
- Installation of the ridge. It is created using a competent connection on top of all rafter legs. To form it, they use different methods, and it is allowed to use a support beam for this or you can work without it. If timber is used, it is permissible to place a ridge on it or use the cutting method.
- The rafter system is considered completed, but in order for it to be strong and reliable, all elements must be thoroughly secured, so all temporary fasteners are eliminated, in place of which high-quality products are used to fix all parts of the system.
- Installation of sheathing. This design designed for easy movement on the roof, and also serves as a basis for laying the roof. Its type and parameters depend on the chosen roof. A continuous sheathing is created if a soft roof is chosen. has a distance between boards within 35 cm. For slate, this parameter is 44 cm.
Important! The pitch between the legs of the rafters is selected in accordance with the weight of the roof, since the more weighty it is, the smaller this gap should be.
Thus, the design of the gable roof rafter system is considered quite simple, so making this structure with your own hands is not difficult.
Types of structures
The rules and features of the installation of this design depend on the chosen variety.
Types of gable roof rafter system:
All options have their own characteristics, so their characteristics are preliminarily assessed. If you plan to install the rafter system of a gable roof with your own hands, then a simple symmetrical design is chosen.
Important! The basis for obtaining an ideal result is competent calculations, and if they are incorrect, the roof will not be reliable and durable, and it will also be dangerous to live in such a house.
How to choose a material to create a system?
When choosing a material, the following rules are taken into account:
Important! The presence of knots is allowed, but their length cannot be more than 1/3 of the thickness of the timber used. 
Calculation rules
To make the rafter system of a gable roof reliable and of high quality, a lot of attention is first paid to competent calculations. They should affect all elements of the future design:
Important! When calculating loads, the possibility of a storm or tornado is additionally taken into account, since if the house is located in a region where such loads can occur, then a safety margin is made for the roof, read more:. 
Types of rafters
Before the actual work on creating a gable roof with your own hands, you should make a special plan, which will contain a drawing and layout of the entire structure. In this case, it is taken into account which rafters will be used, since the following types can be used:
After determining the basic design parameters, the calculation of the required amount of material begins. Next, you can begin to directly create the rafter system. 
Installation of the structure
A do-it-yourself rafter system for a gable roof is created only after preliminary drawings and plans have been generated. The scheme of future contraction must be clear and correctly calculated. To do this, it is recommended to use special computer programs.
Important! In the presence of Money You can contact specialized construction companies for correct calculations.
Installation of a gable roof truss system is divided into successive stages:
Is it time to install a roof? The very first thing you need to do is install the rafter system. This work is very important and complex, and therefore you need to carefully read our advice.
A little theory - what do you need to know about the rafter system?
First of all, we need to talk about the types of rafter systems and their characteristics. So, this system consists of the following elements:
- rafter legs;
- racks and vertical supports;
- struts;
- puffs - an element that connects the rafter legs.
You should also distinguish between rafters by type. Rafter systems are divided into:
- Layered. They should be used if the building has internal partitions or other supports. In this case, the “legs” of the structure must rest on both the external and internal walls.
- Hanging - in which the “legs” of the structure rest only on the outer walls. Distinctive feature This design is that its construction requires tightening due to high thrust loads.
Several important technical characteristics
When choosing a method for installing rafters, it is necessary to assess the complexity of the work and the weight of the future structure. If the assembled product is lightweight or you can bring special lifting equipment to the site, then it is best to assemble the rafters on the ground, and then lift it to the roof of the building, where you can do all the other work. If the structure is heavy, then it will have to be assembled directly on the roof - this is easier and safer.
It is very important to connect the upper parts of the rafters correctly. This work can be done using several methods. First of all, butt jointing, when cuts are made on the opposite rafter legs at the required angle. Next, the rafters need to be joined along the resulting ends and secured with several nails. For a safer connection, secure the products with a metal pad.
You can attach the rafter legs with an overlap - in this case, the structural elements touch each other with planes. If you are going to make a rafter system in a house with fronts that are made of logs, then the rafters must be installed on the walls using the sliding fastening method. Thanks to this, you will be able to avoid deformation of the roof in the event of shrinkage of the house.
If you decide to use this method, then you need to keep in mind that it is quite difficult to do it yourself. Fastening is done as follows: the “legs” of the rafters must be placed with a gap, fastening them together using a specialized movable metal element. Now we proceed to the actual construction of the rafter system with our own hands.
Mauerlat - what is it and what is it for?
The construction of the rafter system must begin with the installation of the Mauerlat - this is the basis for the future structure. Mauerlat is a log or beam that is attached around the entire perimeter external walls. Undoubtedly, it is possible to make a structure without a Mauerlat, but building such a structure with your own hands will be quite difficult and even risky. It is very important to follow all the recommendations exactly so that the base for the rafter system 100% fulfills the functions assigned to it.
Important Tips:
- Before laying the Mauerlat, you need to insulate the walls using a suitable waterproof material. To save money, you can put several layers of roofing felt.
- Installation of logs is carried out on a reinforced belt with a slight indentation from the edges of the walls.
- It is best to choose logs of antiseptic wood with a cross section of 10*15 cm.
To make it easier to do the work yourself, the beams must first be laid out from one front to the other along the entire length of the wall. After this, you can take measurements: lay out the beams level, making sure the distance between them is even. Next you can attach the beams to the walls. As we have already said, it is preferable to carry out installation on a reinforced belt, using anchor bolts as fastening products - it is better to fasten them when pouring reinforced belt. Also, do not forget to drill holes in the beam itself.
Important: if you want to achieve a perfectly even position of the bolts, before pouring the “belt”, attach the board to the bolts and give the fasteners a vertical position using a square.
We place the base prepared with our own hands on stands consisting of planks, after which we carefully lower the beams onto the bolts, removing a plank each time. Finally, screw the washer onto the bolt. Now it’s time to learn how to make a rafter system with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself rafter system installation
We have already talked about installing the Mauerlat. Now it’s time to move on to the main point of installing the rafter system - the installation of floor beams and ridge beams. But first things first. Floor beams are beams with a cross section of 20*10 or 15*10 cm. The length of the products should be such that when laid on the walls, the beams form a projection that will correspond to the width of the cornice.
If we talk in simple words, the bars must extend beyond the walls at a certain distance. The bars are installed in one direction, leaving an equal distance between them.
To avoid errors while performing work, you should follow a clear sequence of actions:
- We install the boards with our own hands, retreating from the edge of the walls by an average of half a meter.
- We stretch a cord between the beams - it will serve as a kind of “beacon” for installing the next beams.
- The distance between the “legs” of the structure must be selected based on the cross-section of the rafters. So, if you decide to choose “floor” boards measuring 5*15 cm, then the step should be approximately 60 cm. It is worth noting that this will greatly simplify all further work. And all thanks to the fact that the width is most often 60 cm, which means there will be no need to trim anything.
- Let's move on to installation cross beams, which with one part should be in contact with the outer beam, and the second should extend beyond the walls. The gap between such jumpers should be about 1 m.
- We attract the beams to the base (mauerlat) using nails, you can also use self-tapping screws and steel corners (for reliability).
To make your work as convenient as possible during the construction of the rafter system with your own hands, lay ordinary boards on the beams.
Now it's time to talk about installing ridge beams. This stage consists of several steps:
- Installation of auxiliary racks, which are U-shaped struts made of wood. Professional specialists It is recommended that the height of the struts be equal to the height of the first floor.
- We assemble the racks at opposite ends of the structure and install intermediate beams, maintaining a step of 2.5 meters.
- After installing the racks, we lay the ridge beam on top ( wooden plank with a section of 5*20 cm). Secure the structure with self-tapping screws.
Since the rafters must be the same length, it is advisable to make a template in advance to determine the length. To do this, take one board measuring 2.5*15 cm, apply it to the beam and to the ridge, and put marks at the points of contact and saw off the unnecessary part - you can make blanks using this template. However, it is worth noting that not everyone can achieve perfect evenness, so be prepared for the fact that during the installation process you will have to use a saw more than once.
If you neglect this advice, the ridge may bend, which may make the structure not so reliable.
After you have installed the rafter system, you need to waterproof it, create a sheathing and cover the structure with roofing material. Now you know how to assemble the rafter system - the roof is almost ready. We hope our tips will help even you do the job yourself.
