The range of floor coverings is regularly updated with new products. Often this modern materials created using achievements chemical industry, but there are also solutions that can be described as “well forgotten old things.” A striking example- parquet board. In terms of its aesthetic appeal, durability and reliability, it is comparable to parquet, but installation parquet board It is simple and does not require highly qualified workers.
Parquet board, what is it
Parquet board as a type flooring appeared in the early 40s of the last century. It was created as a cheap and practical replacement for expensive parquet that requires skilled craftsmen. These days it is experiencing a rebirth. The main reason for this is the absolute environmental Safety, because the coating is made exclusively from natural wood.
Externally, the parquet board is similar to the usual laminate, but differs from it internal device. If you look at it in section, you can see three layers of planks of different thicknesses, the direction of the fibers of each of which is perpendicular to the previous one. This design ensures the strength and reliability of the material.
Upper layer
The top (front) layer primarily creates the floor pattern. The lamellas from which it is assembled are selected according to pattern, shade and texture, and boards are selected without defects or damage. Some types of boards are covered with valuable wood veneer. In a sense, this is a piece product that allows you to create a luxurious and unique floor without any special investment.
Apart from exclusively decorative function, the surface is resistant to abrasion and insensitive to constant pressure. That is why the top ball is made of hardwood, the layer thickness reaches 4 mm or more.
An additional advantage of the material is that it is completely ready for installation and operation. The front side is polished and impregnated from the factory protective compounds and varnished. All that is required from the consumer is to prepare the subfloor and lay the covering correctly.
Middle layer
The job of the middle layer is to distribute the load evenly. The best material for this is wood. coniferous trees. Longitudinal fibers give the material bending resistance, which ensures the durability and reliability of the coating as a whole.
The middle layer is assembled from planks about 7 mm thick. The width of each of them is up to 30 mm, the package is assembled with glue. Among other things, connection elements are formed in the middle layer, thanks to which the parquet board will be installed.
bottom layer
The entire layer cake rests on the base. Is it one or two solid boards up to 4 mm thick, laid along the long side, which provide stability and prevent the floor from sagging under pressure.
Advantages and disadvantages
There is no ideal material, parquet boards are no exception. When planning to lay this covering, it is worth familiarizing yourself with its main advantages and disadvantages.
You need to start with the obvious advantages:
- absolute environmental cleanliness;
- a skillfully laid board is comparable to parquet in appearance and characteristics;
- the board is much cheaper than parquet;
- easy to install, no experience or knowledge required;
- allows for the possibility of replacing a section of the floor without completely dismantling it;
- does not require subsequent surface treatment, scraping, or varnishing;
- A wide range of textures and colors are on sale.
At good care The service life of the coating is 20–30 years. This can be considered a disadvantage, because the same parquet will last much longer. True, the obvious advantages outweigh this conditional disadvantage. And besides everything, you can lay a parquet board with your own hands, but for parquet you will definitely have to invite specialists.
Preparing the subfloor
Parquet boards are not too picky about the base material. It can be laid with equal success on a leveled screed, on a base made of wood or plywood, moreover, it can be used to renew an old floor made of ceramic tiles. The only condition is that the base must be reliable and necessarily level.
In any case, before laying the tiles, you need to do a number of preparatory work. First, you should visually assess the quality of the floor using a simple building level. Reveal problem areas, take measures to level the surface. High spots are smoothed out, cracks are widened and sealed concrete mortar, they also fill the recesses.
Note! Such “pothole” repairs are only possible if the surface is close to ideal and the height difference does not exceed 2–2.5 mm per square meter. Otherwise, you will have to think about creating a new subfloor.
The easiest way is to prepare the base for parquet boards using self-leveling compounds. They are easy to work with; just dissolve the mixture in water, following the instructions, and pour the solution even layer, of course, not forgetting about waterproofing.
You may also consider using sheet material wood based. Multilayer plywood, chipboard or OSB sheets are excellent for this. Using this material, you can create a new floor on joists or patch up an old one that is quite durable, but with a large difference in height.
The concrete floor must be primed and allowed to dry. It is necessary to lay a backing between the base and the board. The best material For these purposes, a traffic jam appears. It will smooth out possible unevenness in the foundation, help conserve heat in the house and protect from noisy neighbors.
Preparing to lay the coating
The technology for laying parquet boards is not particularly complicated; even a novice master can handle this task, but in any case it is easier to work with an assistant. And yet, before getting down to business, it’s worth preparing the tool. You will need:
- hand or electric saw;
- hammer with rubber striker;
- level and plastic rule;
- spatulas (smooth and serrated);
- tape measure, square, pencil;
- screwdriver;
- bracket for tightening rows.
In addition to the tools, you need to prepare the room itself. It would be a good idea to go over the floor with a vacuum cleaner again. Special attention pay attention to the corners; a stray pebble can ruin the whole job.
Methods for installing parquet boards
Once the tool is assembled and the work front is prepared, you can proceed directly to installation. It’s worth mentioning here that there are three main installation methods:
- floating;
- glue fastening;
- using additional fasteners.
According to the installation method, a distinction is made between the longitudinal and diagonal method. When laying longitudinally, the boards are placed parallel to the wall, moving in the direction of the door, in the second case, diagonally from one of the corners. The longitudinal method is simpler; there is not much waste left during the work, but the diagonal method looks more impressive.
Floating installation
The peculiarity of floating installation is that the boards are not attached to the floor. The rigidity and immobility of the coating is achieved only through reliable locking connections. It is from this that all the pros and cons of such a configuration emerge:
- easy to install;
- it is easy to correct mistakes made during work;
- it’s easy to replace several damaged boards;
- it is possible to dismantle the floor and literally move it to another room;
- the coating is immune to changes in humidity and temperature;
- saving on adhesive composition.
As disadvantages, it is worth noting the need to carefully level the subfloor, the limitation on surface area, you should not use this method if the room is more than 50 square meters. Also, you cannot lay the board in this way in the room where it is intended high load on the floor.
Step-by-step instructions for carrying out the work are as follows.
- First, lay the board along the long wall rooms, from left to right. The part of the castle that will face the wall is cut off from the board. A complete row is assembled, the end board is cut to fit.
- The coating should retreat from the walls by 10–15 mm; to achieve this, spacer wedges are used. Many people recommend completely assembling three rows before installing them, then placing wedges and using a bracket to pull the finished canvas, setting it in the desired position. The boards of each subsequent row are laid with a shift, selecting a pattern if necessary.
- The following rows are assembled sequentially; if necessary, the canvas is tapped with light blows of a rubber hammer. The hardest part to lay is the outermost row. Each board must be precisely adjusted in width, and it is important not to forget to leave a gap along the edge to compensate for thermal expansion.
Once the covering is completely laid, the wedges are removed, baseboards and door thresholds are installed. It is advisable to turn on the floor heating or any heating device to raise the temperature in the room and the board sat in place.
Glue mounting
The essence of this method is reflected in its name - the parquet board is glued to the base using special adhesives. This method is more labor-intensive, but it also has a number of significant advantages:
- there are no restrictions on the area and purpose of the room;
- Can be used in conjunction with water heated floors.
But this is a labor-intensive installation, and in the future it will be problematic to correct the mistakes made and replace the damaged area. The floor will cost more due to the need to purchase glue. You will have to wait until the glue hardens before you start using it.
It is worth noting that you need to buy the right glue, the composition of which is suitable for the specific selected board. In addition, you need to work extremely carefully to prevent glue from getting on the front side of the coating.
As in the first case, installation is carried out along the longest wall. Before applying glue, the board is laid out and the outermost one is cut off to create a full row.
A layer of glue 80–100 mm wider than the width of the board is applied to the prepared surface. The glue is evenly distributed over the area using a notched trowel.
Spacer wedges are placed between the first row and the wall. When laying the boards, they must be joined immediately using locking joints. Each laid plank is pressed for better grip. After laying the entire row, it must be additionally secured with self-tapping screws. They are screwed at an angle into the grooves of the lock.
The operation is repeated. Apply glue and lay the next row with a shift of half or a third of the length. First, the ends of adjacent boards are connected, then they are attached to the previous row. If a gap has formed, you need to get rid of it immediately, move the row using wooden block and a hammer.
The finished coating is left for several days until the glue dries completely. After this, the baseboard and thresholds are installed. It would be a good idea to treat the floor special composition, which will fill the joints and create a perfectly flat surface.
Installation using additional fasteners
The third option is ideal for creating a floor on a wooden base. These could be logs, a base made of plywood or OSB, or old floorboards. A special feature of the method is that each board is attached to the base using screws or staples.
The optimal floor created using this method seems to be a structure on joists. The advantages of this approach are obvious - heat-insulating or sound-insulating materials can be laid in the space between the beams.
The parquet board can be laid directly on the logs, in in this case you need to choose thick (at least 22 mm) material. The logs should lie at a short distance from each other (less than 0.5 m). The board is fastened across the joists, the joints should be located in the middle of the joists.
There is another way to create a floor on joists; it will take more time, but will help save on material. An additional advantage is the fact that owners are not limited to simple longitudinal laying; they can lay the board diagonally, creating complex patterns, for example, a herringbone pattern. In this case, sheets of plywood with a total thickness of about 20 mm are attached directly to the logs, and a parquet board is already attached to it. This significantly simplifies the installation work and removes the limitation on the thickness of the board.
Parquet board is a good choice for a beautiful and practical floor covering. The board is perfect for stylish apartment And country house. It is easy to work with, its installation does not require special equipment and skills, even a beginner can handle it. Parquet boards are not that expensive, and when laid with trowels, they are in no way inferior to noble parquet.
So that your floor serves long years and pleased with the appearance, it is necessary to correctly install the parquet board. To do this, you should be well aware of all the intricacies of the process: from preparing the base to laying the coating.
Preparing the subfloor
Before installing the parquet board, it is necessary to carry out work to prepare the subfloor. It must be strong, smooth, without depressions, cracks or other defects. The maximum permissible height difference is 2 mm per linear meter. It is also important to pay attention to the humidity level in the room.
To protect wooden planks from moisture and temperature changes between the base and the coating, it is necessary to organize a substrate of hydro- and thermal insulation material thickness of at least 2 mm. Laying parquet boards on a substrate will smooth out unevenness, muffle the sounds of footsteps, and maintain the integrity of the floor for many years.
There are many types of substrate. The most affordable is made from foamed propylene. This material provides excellent vapor barrier, increases sound and heat insulation, but is not durable: complete decay occurs after 7-10 years.
Cork underlay is often used when installing heated floors and parquet in children's rooms. It has high strength characteristics and elasticity, good shock-absorbing properties, and can swell with water.
Coniferous substrate is one of the most expensive varieties. It has high strength and wear resistance, environmental friendliness, and moisture resistance. You can install it yourself without any professional skills.
“Tuplex” backing – practical solution if the screed is not dry enough or condensation periodically forms on it due to irregular heating of the room. It consists of several layers: porous and polyethylene film, as well as a ventilated air layer filled with balls to maintain a constant height.
It's important to remember that wood floors expand and contract over time, depending on climate changes. Space for expansion is required - a gap of about 10 mm between the border of the floor covering and the wall. For areas with linear dimensions of more than 6 m, the distance should be 1.5 mm for each meter of length. It is also recommended to leave gaps around pipes, poles, columns and other elements that come into contact with the floor covering.
Modern methods and features of laying wooden parquet boards
Floor installation work is quite simple; you can do it yourself, following a step-by-step procedure. Laying of parquet boards is carried out according to a technology chosen in advance, for example, on a concrete floor with a screed and fastening using locks on the edges or plywood using glue.
The dimensions of the panels allow the use various methods and options for laying parquet boards:
- floating method;
- diagonally;
- non-threshold;
- deck (straight);
- "herringbone";
- squares;
- etc.
Floating laying of parquet boards is especially popular. This method is based on the use of adhesive-free locking connection. It is distinguished by its simplicity, high structural stability and speed of operation, the ability to easily correct errors and replace damaged panels. Suitable for rooms up to 60 square meters. m.
The diagonal method is used for visual expansion space. It is great for small spaces. With this method, the panels are laid at an angle of 30-45 degrees towards the wall. Material consumption with the diagonal method increases significantly.
With the threshold-free method, the panels are laid without joints on the doors of the rooms. This requires professional skills, since the slightest mistake can lead to having to start the work all over again.
The most affordable type of laying parquet boards is straight. The boards are placed along one of the walls parallel to each other. With this method, the floor pattern resembles the deck of a ship.
If you want to get not only a durable floor, but also an independent decorative element, the coating should be laid:
- "herringbone";
- "checker";
- "braid";
- square;
- and etc.
The most common is the herringbone pattern, which creates the impression that the coating has a different texture. Installation with this method is carried out along the walls or diagonally.
Another simple pattern is the “checker”. It consists of squares assembled from parquet staves. They are laid with a rotation of 90 degrees relative to each other.
The “braid” pattern is based on the interlacing of pairs and triplets of parquet floors. To implement the method, covering 2-3 rocks is required.
Rules for laying parquet boards step by step:
Open one or two packages of the flooring to get a general idea of the appearance of the floor. Wood is a natural material that may have variations in texture and color.
Prepare the base. It is necessary to check it for evenness and absence of differences, remove dust and treat it with a synthetic primer.
Measure the length of the planks and calculate the total number of rows of flooring. If the last row turns out to be narrow, it is necessary to trim the boards, leaving a minimum width of 5 cm.
Lay the underlay over the base and secure the joints with tape. It is better to start installing the planks from the corner located along left hand, moving to the right. It is preferable to install boards along the length of the room.
The first board is placed with a gap from the wall, installing clamps. To avoid damaging the wall, insert a thick piece of paper.
The boards are mounted with their ends facing each other, having previously cut off the tenon. For a tighter fit, they are adjusted using a strip and a hammer.
Connect the panels of the first row together into a lock. Check the connections.
Mark the cutting line with a pencil with the required indentation. It must be at least 4 mm from the edge of the penultimate board to create a compensation gap.
To create a durable floor, the panels are laid staggered. In this case, the length of the first panel of the second row should be 2/3 of the standard one.
The planks of the second row are fixed to each other and moved towards the first row. Then the “ridge into the groove” is tightly connected.
To lay the third row, the plank is cut. Its length should be 1/3 of the standard one.
Measure the length of the first board of the fourth row. It should be standard. Connect the planks of the fourth row together.
The remaining rows should be laid in the same order as the first four. Finishing the planks on Right place performed with a hammer through a wide block of wood, last panel finish off through a clamp.
The floor assembly is carried out sequentially in the chosen direction, with the covering being laid from the longest wall and from left to right. The distance between the ends of the planks of adjacent rows should be at least 50 cm.
If the last plank cannot be laid due to lack of space, you can trim its ridge using a chisel. In this case, the part that rises above the upper side surface of the board is removed.
To secure the top side of the plank, apply a thin bead of glue and adjust the plank using a pull block. Insert spacers into the gap between the wall and the floor. After this, you can begin installing skirting boards and joint trims.
If the cover strip abuts the pipe, drill a hole 16 mm larger than its diameter to create an expansion gap. Adjust the board until it fits, then glue the cut piece in place. Cover the cut holes with decorative elements.
One of the main advantages of parquet boards is that they do not require additional processing after installation. The material is sanded, scraped, varnished and other operations are carried out in the factory, so all that remains for the consumer to do after purchase is to correctly lay the boards on the subfloor. Thanks to a convenient locking system, installation technology is noticeably simplified, but in order to create a high-quality and durable floor covering, you need to study all the intricacies of this process.
Parquet boards differ from ordinary wooden boards in their three-layer structure:
- upper layer– wood valuable breed with a pronounced texture. The thickness varies between 1-6 mm, but most often it is 3.5-4 mm. To increase the decorative properties, the material undergoes heat treatment, bleaching and other procedures, and to protect against negative effects - varnishing or impregnation with oil-wax compounds;
- intermediate layer– pine or spruce slats laid perpendicular to the face layer. At the ends of the slats, tongue-and-groove or locking joints are cut, depending on the modification of the parquet board. The thickness of this layer is 8-9 mm;
- bottom layer– solid veneer from coniferous wood, up to 2 mm thick. The direction of the fibers is perpendicular to the previous layer.
This arrangement of layers provides the material with high bending and compressive strength, and increases resistance to changes in humidity and temperature conditions. There are almost no chips on the parquet board, and protective covering Retains an attractive appearance for years. The standard board has the following parameters:
- width 120-200 mm;
- length 1100-2500 mm;
- thickness 10-22 mm.
There are several varieties of parquet boards, depending on the number of tiles in the top layer and the presence of chamfers on the sides.
Table. Types of parquet boards
| Board type | Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Upper layer is a single cut of natural wood. After installation, the material is visually indistinguishable from solid wood flooring, which gives the interior a more presentable look. In addition, the single-strip option is considered the most decorative, due to the integrity of the natural pattern. |
| The front layer consists of a double row of dies, which gives the coating an external resemblance to parquet. The length of the dies varies over a wide range: they can be solid or divided into 2-3 segments. The dies differ slightly from each other in tone and fiber structure |
| The dies are arranged in three parallel rows offset along the length. There are also herringbone and wicker options - a classic parquet pattern. This coating is the most common today, as it is perfect for any type of premises. |
| The top layer consists of small, perfectly fitted dies, differing in shades and fiber structure. The coating pattern is bright and saturated, which is optimal for interiors that are not overloaded with details. |
| The presence of a chamfer increases decorative properties coating, gives it a resemblance to a natural plank floor. In addition, these cutouts along the edges help minimize errors during installation. The chamfer width is 1-3 mm |
Prices for Tarkett parquet boards
Tarkett parquet board
Pros and cons of the material
Despite the abundance of inexpensive and reliable floor coverings, the demand for parquet boards remains consistently high. This popularity is explained by the presence of significant advantages of the material:
- the coating is durable and has a long service life, is resistant to wear and can be restored;
- there is no need for varnishing, sanding or painting after installation is completed;
- thanks to the locking system, the coating can be dismantled and re-installed if necessary, without compromising its performance properties;
- installation does not require special equipment and does not take much time;
- parquet flooring looks impressive and is suitable for different interior styles.
This coating also has disadvantages, although there are not many of them:
- lack of possibility of curly styling;
- relatively high price;
- the need for careful preparation of the rough foundation.
Methods for laying parquet boards
The coating can be laid in three ways - adhesive, floating and using fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws).
Glue method
Laying the coating with adhesive requires a perfectly flat and dry base. If on rough floor There are notches or bumps left, this will lead to uneven abrasion of the finishing layer, the appearance of cracks, and deformations. It is also more difficult to restore such a floor, since more material is removed during sanding in protruding areas than necessary, and in recesses it is not removed at all. And the presence of moisture under the floor contributes to partial peeling of the coating, the appearance of fungus, swelling and heaving. To eliminate such risks, the parquet board is glued not to the screed itself, but to a backing made of plywood or chipboard. There must be waterproofing under the substrate; additionally, you can lay soundproofing material - cork, polyethylene foam and others.
This method is used less and less often because it has more disadvantages than advantages. Firstly, costs increase: in addition to parquet boards and waterproofing, you need to buy backing material, fasteners and special parquet glue, the cost of which is quite high. Secondly, installation takes more time, because you need to cut and fit the plywood, secure it correctly, and apply glue. You cannot walk on the floor until the glue is completely dry. In addition, it will be more difficult to replace accidentally damaged areas, and the dismantled floor is unsuitable for reuse.
Floating method
Laying of the covering is carried out without fixing the parquet board to the rough base. The lamellas are attached to each other using a tongue-and-groove system or a special locking connection. A small gap must be left around the perimeter of the room to prevent the floor from deforming during thermal expansion. There is a layer of waterproofing between the coating and the base; noise-absorbing materials can also be laid.
This method is considered the most convenient and fastest, therefore it is used by most craftsmen, and is also ideal for those who do not yet have construction experience. If the installation technology is followed, the coating can withstand changes in humidity and temperature, which means that the risk of deformation is reduced to zero. If individual slats are damaged, replacing them will not be difficult; the main thing is to choose the right boards based on tone and pattern. Complete dismantling of the coating will also not require much effort; in addition, the material can be reused.
Laying with fasteners
Fixing the parquet board with nails or self-tapping screws can be used in case of laying the covering on joists or solid wooden base, and not on the screed. Slats with a thickness of at least 20 mm are suitable for this, since thin boards can be easily damaged. The logs are laid in increments of no more than 60 cm and strictly in the same plane, since even small differences in height cause squeaks when walking. The space under the flooring must be well ventilated to avoid the accumulation of condensation and dampness.
When laying, the lamellas are positioned so that their ends meet only at the joists. The nails are driven into the grooves at an angle, and the heads are deepened with a hammer so that the fasteners do not interfere with the tight fit of adjacent boards. Such fasteners provide the necessary strength of the connection, but make it difficult to subsequently replace elements during repairs. If complete dismantling becomes necessary, the coating cannot be reused due to damaged edges.
To fasten individual parquet strips, nails are used, the length of which is 40 mm and the thickness is 1.6 - 1.8 mm
Adhesive flooring technology
Preparatory stage
They start by assessing the condition of the subfloor. Its surface should be smooth, dry, without any defects. In order not to miss minor damage, the base must first be cleaned of debris and dust. Be sure to check the screed with a level and, if necessary, level the floor with a leveling mixture. If a new screed is being poured, installation cannot begin until the base is completely dry.
During the installation process you will need:
- primer for concrete;
- moisture-resistant plywood;
- parquet board;
- tape measure and pencil;
- circular saw or jigsaw;
- drill;
- dowel-nails;
- one-component parquet adhesive;
- notched spatula;
- hammer.
Materials should be taken with a small margin, so calculate in advance required quantity by taking measurements of the floor area. As a rule, trimming takes from 5 to 10% of the total amount of flooring, depending on the experience of the specialist and installation options.
Advice. The parquet board must be brought into the room where installation will take place in advance and left for at least a day. In this case, the temperature in the room should be within 18-25 degrees, and the humidity should not exceed 60%.
Laying the covering
Step 1. The dust-free screed is treated with a primer. If the composition is absorbed quickly, it is recommended to apply the primer in two layers, observing the time specified in the instructions for drying between layers.
Step 2. The plywood is laid out on a dry floor and the cut locations are marked. The substrate sheets should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern, with gaps 3-5 mm wide left between them to compensate for temperature expansion. A gap of 10-15 mm wide is left around the perimeter of the room.
Step 3. With help circular saw cut the plywood, clean the cuts from shavings and dust. Dilute the glue and apply it to concrete base, where the first sheet will be located. The glue is quite thick, so it needs to be spread over the surface with a spatula. Lay the plywood, level it, and gently press it with your hands. All other sheets are glued in the same way.
Step 4. For more reliable fixation, the plywood must be fastened to the base with dowel nails. To do this, holes are drilled in each sheet in the corners and in the middle of the sides, 30-40 mm away from the edge. Dowels are inserted into the holes and the fasteners are driven in with a hammer.
Step 5. After fixing the substrate, clean the surface from dust and begin marking the floor covering. Lay the first row from the wall, fastening the boards without glue using locking joints. On the last lamella in the row, mark a cutting line and cut off the excess. Having completely laid the first row, mark its border on the backing with a pencil and remove the boards.
Step 6. Take a new portion of glue and apply it with a spatula to the designated area. Distribute in an even layer over the entire surface, without going beyond the boundaries of the marking. Lay the boards of the first row, carefully adjusting them at the ends and leaving a gap between the wall and the covering of at least 10 mm.
Step 7 The second row should be fastened with the end seams offset by half the length of the lamella. Having cut the material properly, carefully cover the substrate with glue and begin laying. To do this, take the board with both hands along the edges, place it at an angle to the board of the first row, inserting the ridge into the groove along the entire length, then lower it down and lightly knock it so that the lamella is in place. All the others are laid out the same way.
Step 8 When laying the covering near the threshold, around the ledges and in niches, cutouts of the appropriate shape are made in the boards, be sure to leave technological gap along the perimeter. To ensure that the gap is the same along the entire length, it is recommended to insert wooden or plastic wedges 10 mm thick between the wall and the parquet board.
Advice. In the absence of experience in such work, it is necessary to control the time of fitting the boards so that the adhesive layer does not have time to dry. If the room is long, it is better to apply glue up to half the row for the first time.
Step 9 The last row often has to be cut to width. Here, in the same way, the board is applied to the surface, the cut line is marked with a pencil, and the excess is removed. Having completed the work, leave the room for 8-10 hours so that the glue hardens and securely fixes the floor covering.
After the specified time, remove the spacer wedges and close the gaps with plinths. It is not difficult to care for such a floor, the main thing is to avoid excessive moisture. At wet cleaning The rag must be wrung out well so that puddles do not accumulate on the floor. Accidentally spilled liquids should be wiped up immediately, preventing moisture from penetrating the seams between the boards.
Floating installation technology
A floating floor also requires quality basis, therefore, the screed is prepared in the manner described above. Next, prepare everything you need for work:
- parquet board;
- waterproofing film;
- scotch;
- soundproofing substrate;
- spacer wedges;
- tape measure and pencil;
- jigsaw;
- clamps for skirting boards;
- drill and dowels with self-tapping screws.
Step 1. The prepared base is lined with a film for waterproofing, covering the walls to a height of 10 cm. The film strips are laid overlapping to a width of 30 cm and the edge is taped.
Step 2. The next layer is a heat-insulating substrate made of pressed cork or foamed polyethylene. The substrate is laid close to the walls, adjacent strips are laid end-to-end.
Step 3. Begin installation of the coating. Lay the first board in the corner along the wall, with an indent of 10-15 mm on the side and end. For convenience, wedges of appropriate thickness are inserted between the board and the walls.
Advice. The boards of the first row must be laid with the ridge to the wall, but since in this case the technological gap will be wider than required, the ridges are pre-cut.
Step 4. The second board is placed next to it, leveled, its end is brought into the lock of the first and fit tightly. The last lamella in the row is first tried on, the required length is marked with a pencil and the excess is cut off with a saw, after which it is attached like all the others.
Step 5. In the second row, the boards are shifted by at least a third of the length. Laying is done in the same way, only now each board needs to be joined both along the length and at the end.
Step 6. Having reached the opening, mark the thickness of the coating on the door frame and carefully cut out a groove for the parquet board using a hacksaw. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove the resulting dust and shavings.
Step 7 Install the threshold. Attach aluminum rail to the floor, through the mounting holes, mark the places of fixation. Having drilled the holes, clean them of dust, insert dowels and screw the rail with self-tapping screws.
Step 8 When laying the board furthest from the threshold, the connection is additionally strengthened with glue. For this sharp knife Carefully remove the top layer of wood along the ridge, remove the shavings and apply glue in a thin continuous strip. The board is pushed under door frame, level from the end and along the side line, snap the locks. For a tighter joint, hammer the lamellas on the other side with a hammer.
Step 9 Cut out and lay the covering opposite the threshold, and then screw it on top bar metal threshold. The plank should tightly cover the ends of the boards and lie strictly horizontally.
Step 10 From the threshold, the rows are laid in the manner described above, with a mandatory gap around the perimeter of the room. If the last row does not fit in width, the boards are cut with a saw from the groove side.
Step 11 Having laid the covering, on the walls, on top of the film, mark the places for attaching the clamps for the baseboards in increments of 40-50 cm. The distances from the corners should not be more than 20 cm. Drill holes in the wall through the film, insert dowels and screw the clamps with self-tapping screws.
Step 12 Install the baseboards, then take a sharp assembly knife and very carefully cut off the protruding edge of the film so as not to leave scratches on the baseboard and on the wall.
If the technology is followed, the coating is strong and durable, does not swell or squeak underfoot. If you need to replace individual fragments, it will be enough to pry them and lift them to disconnect the lock.
Video - Mistakes when laying parquet boards
When the renovation is nearing completion, you should think about the design of the floor. Despite huge selection floor coverings, lovers of environmentally friendly pure materials choose parquet boards.
Types of parquet boards
Typically, builders classify flooring by the number of stripes. They are noticeable decorative surface boards. According to this criterion, parquet boards come in several types:
Single lane. This manufacturing technology allows the board to be made from a single layer of wood, preserving the natural texture of the material.
Types of parquet boards depending on quantity
strips of lamellas in the top layer
Two-way. The base of this type of board is made of a solid or composite plate. The top decorative layer is made of two dies.
Three-way. This is a telling name. This parquet element consists of three strips, each of which is divided into fragments.
Four-way. The parquet floor element consists of four stripes.
Laying parquet boards: video
Preparing the floor for laying parquet boards
No matter what type of parquet board you choose, the floor for its installation must be prepared according to a number of mandatory requirements. Everything needs to be completed indoors preparatory work, eliminate sources of draft and moisture. It is best to install it on a concrete floor. The base must be clean and without changes. If there are serious defects, holes or bumps, they must be eliminated in any convenient way. The surface should be checked with a building level. Deviation from the horizontal is allowed no more than 2 millimeters per 2 square meters. The base for laying parquet boards must be dry, and any cracks will lead to defects in the finished floor covering.
Before laying parquet boards yourself, you need to keep them for two days in the room where the work will be carried out. Temperature adaptation will increase the flexibility of the boards and enhance their properties.
1. waterproofing film
2. foamed polyethylene or polystyrene
3. plywood sheets
The next step will be the preparation of the cement base: laying waterproofing and thermal insulation materials:
- A special waterproofing film must be laid in strips on the cleaned concrete base. It is laid along the room. Each strip of film should overlap one another by 15-20 centimeters. Waterproofing should be installed on the walls to a height of about 5 centimeters.
- Thermal insulation is laid on the waterproofing film. This can be foamed polyethylene or polystyrene. Thermal insulation is laid flush against the wall, and the elements are glued together with adhesive tape.
- Next, it is possible to lay plywood or chipboard sheets, onto which the parquet board is then glued. If a solid method of fastening the boards is chosen.
Completing these two steps allows you to begin installing your hardwood flooring yourself.
Technologies for laying parquet boards
Professional builders specializing in laying flooring suggest the following main types of work on laying floor boards:
"Floating" method
The so-called “floating” method. For this technology, the preparation of the concrete base is carried out in the manner described above, that is, waterproofing and thermal insulation.
With this method, parquet boards are connected to each other without fastening to the base. The first row of parquet boards self-installation placed along a longer wall, but not the one where there is a doorway. Laying is done towards the window if the window is located on a shorter wall. Previously, parquet boards were glued together with a special compound. It provided strength and at the same time elasticity of the entire future surface.
Nowadays, to save time and convenience, parquet boards are equipped with special locks. They represent a system where one board has a groove, and the other has a ledge under it. This system allows you to lay parquet boards yourself, without the help of specialists. Each board is placed with the top lock against the wall, leaving a gap of approximately 1 centimeter. It is worth remembering that the gap must be less than the width of the baseboard, otherwise it will not close. For convenience, you can insert special construction wedges between the wall and the board. They are removed after the flooring is completely finished.
Lock for connecting parquet boards type “CLIC”
The next row of parquet boards begins with the remaining element of the previous row. It is necessary to tightly connect the boards together until the lock clicks. Sometimes they close tightly. In this case, they can be knocked out. Under no circumstances should a hammer be used. A wooden block or rubberized mallet is suitable for these purposes.
"Floating" technology is used in relatively small spaces with an area of no more than 50 square meters. This method is very practical. In the event of a defect in one or more boards, it will allow you to easily disassemble the floor and replace the necessary elements.
"Non-floating" or solid method
This method involves slightly different preparation of the concrete base. However, it is also cleaned and made smooth. After this, sheets of plywood are laid on the concrete base. Its thickness is at least a centimeter, and a water-repellent coating is also desirable. Sheets of plywood are pre-cut into elements, each side of which should be no more than 1 meter. They are laid with gaps of at least 5 millimeters from each other. After the room is completely covered with plywood, the base should be thoroughly sanded and dust-free.
Attaching parquet boards to the base with nails without a head
The solid method involves carrying out all work in a room with a temperature of about + 20 degrees. The installation technique itself is the same as with the “floating” method, however, each parquet board is independently glued to plywood base. Additionally, the seams between the parquet boards are taped.
Fastening the parquet board to the base with a construction gun
As adhesive composition special material is used. It is also necessary to leave a gap between the wall and the parquet boards, which is subsequently covered with a plinth. Before installing the plinth, and after the work in the room is completed, use a sharp knife to cut off all protruding insulating materials.
Laying parquet boards on a wooden base
This method is in many ways similar to laying boards on joists and is used when the room already has a wooden base. Parquet boards are nailed to it, and a waterproofing underlay is pre-laid. This work can be done when the base is level.
The process of laying parquet boards on a wooden floor
Laying parquet boards on joists
This method can only be used when using thick parquet boards. They are used as lags wooden beams. Using a building level, they are installed across the room, where waterproofing material must be laid in advance.
Dowel nails should be used to attach the joists to the floor. It is necessary to retreat no more than 5 centimeters from the wall and install the first block. The following are installed at a distance of no more than 40 centimeters. The horizontality of the joists must be checked with a level in all directions. To level the lags, special plates are placed under them. Parquet boards are laid on logs traditional way and are attached to them with nails. They are driven at a 45 degree angle into the base of the board. This place is subsequently covered with another board inserted into the groove.
Fastening parquet boards to joists
Diagonal laying
Another type of laying parquet boards is diagonal arrangement. With this method, any fastening method described above is used. Laying begins with the parquet board being marked in the middle. Then an angle of 45 degrees is laid off from it and the same at the end of the board. The corners must be mirrored. After this, the board is cut and fitted to the wall with a tenon with a traditional centimeter gap. If the marking and cutting are done correctly, then work continues according to the usual rules.
Diagonal laying of parquet boards
The final stage should be filling in the corner where the work started. The diagonal flooring method increases the amount required material. Therefore, laying it with your own hands requires careful calculations.
Flooring is important element interior Comfort largely depends on the quality of installation and the properties of the material. interior decoration. Laying parquet boards will provide special comfort in the room.
Features of modern parquet flooring
For many centuries, flooring has been formed from wooden planks, with the help of which the parquet floor is folded. It has sufficient strength, and the appearance of polished wood is much more beautiful and natural than tiles, stone or synthetic materials.
Now you can lay parquet the old fashioned way by gradually laying the floor with wooden slats on top of the screed or on a sheathing of beams. However, the technology of laying parquet boards, as well as the installation process, has undergone significant changes over the past decades.
Parquet boards can be used as a material for parquet flooring. It is a cake made from several layers of wood. This was done to make the flooring more reliable. Three layers of wood are glued together, with the wood fibers of each layer placed at an angle of 90 degrees to the adjacent ones. The two bottom layers are made of cheap and strong wood. The top layer, which will actually be visible, is made from lamellas of expensive wood.
The range of parquet boards provides the buyer with wide choose among the various types of wood used. The finishing layer lamellas themselves can be placed on the parquet in one, two or three rows, representing classic version placement of parquet boards in stripes. There are also variations in the placement of lamellas in the form of Dutch pattern, braid and herringbone.
What installation methods are there?
Methods for laying parquet boards are divided into:
- dry installation or floating method;
- gluing parquet boards together and gluing them to the base of the floor;
- installation using mechanical fasteners;
To facilitate the installation process, the parquet board is equipped with a locking system with adjacent boards. Its three-layer structure in this case gives the locking connection even more reliability. In this case, there is even no need for gluing or fastening to the base of the floor. This method is currently being actively distributed by manufacturers. Using this technology, reliable and high-quality laying of parquet boards with your own hands becomes possible, and the result will come out no worse than under the hands of a professional.
Let's start installation: work order
After purchasing a high-quality parquet board famous manufacturer You will probably see that instructions for laying parquet boards are attached to it, however, this is only general information and descriptions of the mounting method.
Let's take a closer look at the procedure for laying parquet boards step by step:
- To begin, bring the surface of the base into proper shape. Form a screed on the floor that will level the surface and provide a smooth base at one level for subsequent work. The screed can be either wet or dry. This will not affect the quality of parquet installation.
- Thoroughly clean the surface of the screed from dirt and dust.
- Place the first layer of waterproofing film on the screed. Should be used plastic film 200 microns thick, or specialized films for water vapor barrier, commercially available. The film is distributed in strips over the entire surface with the film strips overlapping each other by approximately 20 cm. Along the perimeter of the room, wrap the film onto the wall, approximately 5-6 cm.
- Next lay a layer of thermal insulation. The most commonly used is a roll of polyethylene foam. This is quite enough for thermal insulation and soundproofing of the floor. If the project requires more high-quality insulation, then slabs of polystyrene foam or similar material are laid. Lay strips or slabs of insulation end-to-end against the walls and without gaps between adjacent elements. In the case of polyethylene foam, glue the strips of material together using adhesive tape.
- The base for the parquet floor is ready. Next, the actual laying of the parquet floor begins. Laying should begin along the longer wall and not from the wall with the doorway. Place the first board against the wall in the corner. Place wedges of equal thickness, approximately 7-8 mm, between the wall and the board. This will provide the necessary gap between the entire plane of the flooring and the walls. In different seasons of the year and at different temperatures, thermal deformations of the coating are inevitable, and it is to compensate for this process that a gap is left.
- Lay subsequent boards along the wall. Attach another one to the rest of the wall and mark the cut line. Do not forget about the required gap of 7-8 mm.
- The next row should begin to be laid with the remaining piece of board from the previous row. However, if it is necessary to adhere to the pattern on the floor surface, it may be necessary to cut off excess of the remainder to match the pattern. Apply the boards with a lock to the previously laid ones at an angle of approximately 20-25 degrees. Press forward and down at the same time. You will feel when the lock grooves begin to converge. To speed up the process, use rubber mallet. Gently tap along the joint line until the boards are securely in place at the joint.
- Lay all subsequent boards in the same way until the floor is completely covered. Insert gap wedges into the ends of the outer boards of each row.
- Once the entire flooring has been assembled, remove any wedges that separated the flooring boards from the walls. Next, cut off the strip of polyethylene protruding above the floor from the waterproofing layer.
- The last step is to install skirting boards around the entire perimeter of the room.
What should you consider when laying parquet boards?
As you lay the parquet boards, you will likely encounter obstacles in the form of protrusions in the wall or heating pipes. In such situations, appropriate pieces are cut out of the board to bypass the obstacle. Again, do not forget about the gap. The most convenient way to cut boards or cut them to avoid obstacles is with a jigsaw. When using it, use saw blades with fine teeth. You can replace a jigsaw with a fine-toothed wood saw or a hacksaw.
If you choose other methods of laying parquet boards from the three listed above, only the method of mounting the boards together will change.
If you lay a version of the floor covering without locks (with straight edges) with glue, an adhesive composition is applied to the joints of the boards and the boards are securely pressed against each other. Ultimately, using wedges along the edges of the flooring, the boards will be securely pressed against each other.
Don't forget about proper floor care!
It should be remembered that, like regular parquet, parquet boards have a number of nuances in the method of operation. Clean the parquet floor with a well-wrung out cloth; the floor surface is susceptible to strong moisture. When vacuuming, be sure to position the brush on the nozzle. Although the board has a lot of advantages, both technical and aesthetic, it is a less strong material than others modern coatings. The surface may be scratched or damaged by furniture legs. To maintain perfect appearance For your parquet floor, consider installing special stickers made of soft material on the legs of furniture and especially chairs.
