Planting and caring for blackcurrants require certain knowledge and skills. To get a rich harvest, it is important to follow all recommendations for planting and caring for young blackcurrant seedlings as much as possible.
Blackcurrant bushes are planted in spring or autumn. In spring, the process is carried out before the sap begins to flow in the plant and the buds open. IN autumn period the crop is planted in the ground in September or October. Perfect timing Autumn is considered the best time to plant currants, because a plant planted at this time of year actively grows in the spring.
Soil selection
The culture is considered unpretentious in terms of soil and a certain area in the garden. It will grow well in sun, shade and moist soils (they should not be swampy).
However, it is better to choose an optimally comfortable place for the bush in order to get more harvest.
Choose:
- Fertile lands.
- A place protected from the wind.
- A place with enough space, but maybe a little dark.
- Allowed to plant on a hill.
- Requires soil with an acidity level of 6 - 6.5 pH.
- It is not recommended to choose soils that are too wet, where groundwater pass close to the surface.
- You can plant the crop separately from other plants, or you can allocate a place for it between the rows.
How to choose seedlings?
When purchasing, pay attention to root system. It should be powerful and strong, with two or three main branches, the length of which reaches 25 centimeters.
There should be no dry or diseased roots with damage. High-quality seedlings have fresh, wrinkle-free bark. Pinch off a little bark: if there is a green trunk under it, then the seedling is alive, and if the trunk is colored Brown color, you are offered an already dead plant.
Landing instructions
Preparatory work and the planting process itself include the following steps:
- Dig holes measuring 40 by 40 centimeters at a distance of about a meter from each other.
- Add a bucket of humus, 150 grams of superphosphate, 300 grams of wood ash and limestone to the hole.
- Mix all the fertilizers with the soil and water.
- Lower the seedling into the prepared hole, tilting it at an angle of forty-five degrees.
- Spread out the roots.
- Cover the root system with earthen mixture, making sure that all voids are filled.
- Place regular soil on top of the hole.
- Water and mulch the planting.
Spring care
The awakening of black currants from hibernation occurs very early, so the gardener must catch the time before the buds swell in order to get rid of damaged and diseased branches, as well as remove buds damaged by the bud mite.
In spring, in addition to sanitary pruning, pruning is performed, with the help of which the bush is given the required form. If hilling was carried out before winter, now you need to remove the soil from the tree trunk circle.
The soil is carefully dug up and covered with mulch with a layer of 5 - 10 centimeters. Humus or manure can be used as mulch, which is laid out around the plant while maintaining a distance of 20 centimeters from the branches of the bush. Sprouting weeds are promptly removed.
Black currant is a moisture-loving crop, so it needs to be watered regularly, especially in the case of a snowless winter and a dry spring without precipitation. After watering, it is convenient to immediately weed and loosen the soil. Loosening is carried out about two to three times a week, but mulched soil can be loosened less often.
Since currants wake up early, they are threatened by return spring frosts. Gardeners protect crops from sudden temperature changes with polyethylene film.
After the start of flowering, the bush is carefully inspected for the subsequent removal of branches that were affected by doubleness (the flowers have changed shape: instead of bell-shaped, they have become separate-petaled). Install supports if the bush clearly needs them.
Summer care
Summer care includes timely watering, followed by loosening and weeding. At this time, organic fertilizers are applied at the root.
You can resort to spraying the leaves with special foliar fertilizers: currants respond well to such fertilizing. In different containers, 3 grams of boric acid, 5 grams of potassium permanganate and 40 grams of copper sulfate are diluted in water.
Then all the components are mixed together in 10 liters of water and poured into a bottle with a spray bottle, with which the bushes are thoroughly sprayed. The procedure is carried out in the morning or evening, treating the leaves well on both sides.
If you notice traces of the moth moth on the currant, immediately destroy its nests. Be prepared for an invasion of sawflies, from which you can save yourself by treating them with special preparations, for example, Actellik or Karbofos.
In July and August it is time to harvest a juicy harvest. The technology for harvesting black currants differs from the principles for harvesting red berries.
Blackcurrant fruits do not ripen at the same time, so the crop is harvested selectively and not in whole clusters. Select the container carefully. Wide baskets and boxes with shallow depth are preferable so that the berries do not wrinkle under their own weight. After the harvest is completed, the bushes are watered abundantly, and after the soil dries, they are thoroughly loosened.
Autumn care
In September or October, currants are fed with mineral or organic fertilizers, then watered abundantly, and then dug up so that the fertilizers get into the soil. Autumn time involves sanitary pruning.
Remove branches that thicken the bush. They will serve as excellent planting material that can be rooted in the fall. At this time, layerings dug in in the spring are planted on a permanent plot.
If there is little rainfall in the fall, water thoroughly before the onset of winter so that the plant can stock up on life-giving moisture.
Features of watering
Black currant grows well in loose soil, which acquires this structure with abundant watering combined with loosening. If a shrub does not receive enough moisture, its shoots and branches stop growing, the crop becomes smaller and crumbles.
Watering is of great importance at the beginning of summer, when the bush is actively growing and forming ovaries. During the period of fruit appearance, that is, in June and July, great attention should be paid to watering. The soil should be moistened to approximately 35–45 centimeters, that is, to the entire depth of the root system. On square meter The land uses about 20 - 30 liters of water.
Around the bush, at a distance of 30–40 centimeters from the base, peculiar grooves are dug to a depth of 10–15 centimeters. If currants are planted in rows, you can make furrows located along the row spacing.
Water is poured into these grooves and beards during irrigation. After the soil dries, it is loosened. A mulched area has to be loosened, weeded and watered much less frequently.
Nuances of feeding
During the planting season, if the hole has been prepared according to all the rules, fertilizing will not be required. Starting from the second year of growth, it is necessary to add 40–50 grams of urea to each bush.
You can treat the bushes themselves with a urea solution of seven percent concentration, but only before the juices begin to move through the plant. Mature bushes that are more than four years old are fertilized with less urea. From 25 to 40 grams of urea are added to each bush, distributing this volume into two doses.
In the autumn, they resort to using organic fertilizer, using 10 - 15 kilograms of manure, compost or bird droppings per crop. Of mineral fertilizers, 10–20 grams of potassium sulfate and 50 grams of superphosphate are used for each plant.
If in spring period the area was mulched with organic fertilizer; in the fall, the application of this type of fertilizer can be neglected. In the case when the currants were fed with humus in the fall, nitrogen fertilizer was added in the spring.
How to trim black currants?
Newly planted plants are shortened so that no more than two or three buds remain on each branch. On a crop growing for the second year, there should be from three to five of the strongest and most powerful shoots, which in the future will form the skeleton of the shrub. The remaining small and weak branches are cut off.
In the middle of the growing season, that is, in the summer, pinching is carried out on exactly two buds. This is necessary for new shoots to actively grow and fruit branches to appear. For three-year-old and four-year-old currant bushes, three to six of the strongest branches are left, the rest are removed.
The tips of the shoots that grew last year are pinched off. When the fourth year of life of the currant crop comes to an end, the bush is considered mature and fully formed. After the fifth year, the plant requires anti-aging pruning, which consists of cutting out the oldest shoots.
If in the spring you have carried out all the necessary pruning, in the fall all you have to do is remove damaged and diseased branches, that is, carry out pruning for sanitary and thinning purposes.
If it was not possible to carry out all the activities in the spring, carry out pruning according to the above scheme in the fall, when the currants have lost all their leaves. Dried branches can be removed at any time of the year, but it is recommended to pinch the tops in mid-summer. For pruning, use sterile pruning shears, garden knives or hedge trimmers.
Reproduction
The crop can be propagated in several ways: cuttings, layering and dividing the bush. With the help of seeds you can also grow a new bush, but there is no guarantee that it will inherit everything varietal characteristics parent plant. In addition, this method takes much longer than those listed above.
Cuttings
Cuttings are most often used to obtain a new currant bush. Shoots of the first year of life, growing at the very roots, are suitable for making cuttings. Cut cuttings from 15 to 20 centimeters long, making sure that the thickness of the branches is at least 7 millimeters.
That same fall, the cuttings are placed in the ground. If during this period it is not possible to find a new place for future young plants, planting can be postponed until spring.
The tips of the planting material should be dipped in garden varnish, the cuttings tied together, placed in moistened paper and plastic wrap, and then stored in the refrigerator or buried in the snow.
In spring, cuttings are planted in open ground using the same technology that applies to adult currants. A polyethylene greenhouse is built over them and they wait for rooting. Cuttings that have already developed roots are watered regularly, preventing the soil from drying out. As soon as they have one or two shoots, the cuttings are moved to a permanent place.
Layerings
The propagation method using layering is considered the simplest and most effective, since the gardener is able to obtain seedlings with a strong root system in just a year.
In early spring, dig a hole 10 centimeters deep next to the currant bush. From the side of the bush, select a powerful, healthy branch that is already two years old, lower it to the ground and place the middle of the branch in the hole, making sure that 20 - 30 centimeters of shoot remain above the surface.
To prevent the shoot from crawling out of the ground, secure it with wire and cover it with soil. The cuttings need to be watered regularly, then by autumn it will have a developed root system and two thick branches. Such a strong young plant can be separated from an adult bush and planted in a new place.
Dividing the bush
The division of the bush is done in the spring or autumn, when the adult specimen is about to be replanted. The bush is removed from the ground and, using a sterile ax, divided into several parts. Each division must have a developed and powerful root system and strong shoots.
The cut sites are processed charcoal, young shoots are shortened by 30 centimeters, and diseased and damaged roots are removed. The cuttings are planted in the ground and watered abundantly. The harvest from such young plants can be obtained after a year.
Blackcurrant is considered relatively unpretentious plant therefore, with a minimum amount of effort, you can get a rich harvest of sweet and healthy berries.
Of all the varieties of currants, black currants are considered the most healthy and aromatic. But in order for the plant to flourish and delight you with a good harvest, it is important to follow simple rules of care and know little tricks when planting it. Below we will talk in detail about where, how and when it is best to plant blackcurrant seedlings, as well as about the features of pruning and fertilizing this berry bush.
What to consider when landing?
Planting black currants is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right time and place for planting, as well as prepare the soil. First, let's discuss the features of the soil that is optimal for black currants.
Priming
Loamy soils are ideal for currants. It grows poorly in acidic and swampy areas, so additional preparatory work will be required there. To reduce acidity, you must first add slaked lime or wood ash to the ground when digging in spring or autumn.
Lighting
In order for the bush to bear fruit well and the berries to be ripe and sweet, the plant needs a lot of sun. Therefore, when choosing a place for planting, you should give preference to well-lit areas of the garden.
Distance
Currants tend to grow into large and wide bushes, and this is good, because the larger the bush, the more berries it contains. Large bushes, as a rule, have a well-branched root system, which means they need sufficient distance between plants. It is recommended to plant them in rows, with a distance between them of at least 1.8 meters, and between bushes in a row - at least 70 centimeters. Then the plants will have enough space and nutrients.
Pre-fertilizer
Fertilizer can be applied both in the fall, when preparing the site, and immediately before planting currants. In the second case, it is better to do this one to one and a half weeks in advance, so that the minerals have time to be absorbed into the soil and do not burn the roots of the plant. In the most urgent case, fertilizer can be applied a couple of days before planting and mixed well with the substrate. It is risky to place fertilizer directly into the holes, as it can seriously damage the roots.
Fertilizers can be either organic (humus, manure, chicken droppings) or mineral - complex or containing one of the necessary minerals, such as phosphorus, potassium or nitrogen.
Disembarkation time
The most favorable time for planting is late autumn, about two to three weeks before the onset of cold weather. Usually, black currants are planted in the fall in late October - early November.
When planting in the spring, it is important not to miss the right moment - currants are one of the first to bloom, so they need to be planted as early as possible.
Planting: a step-by-step guide
The first thing we do is form a hole in the selected place in the soil that has been dug up and cleared of weeds. To do this, you need to dig a hole up to half a meter deep and the width corresponding to the size of the root system. If you decide to apply fertilizer to the hole itself, then do it and wait another week. When planting in spring, you need to start preparing the hole in the fall.
Now you can start planting. It is important that the roots of the plant are kept moist before and during planting. It is best to put the roots in water 2-3 hours before planting so that they are saturated with water.
It doesn't matter whether you plant a thin twig or small bush, this must be done at an angle. Place the plant in the hole somewhere at an angle of 60 degrees, so that the three lower buds end up in the ground. This planting will help the bush become wider and produce more shoots.
Having sprinkled the roots with soil, you need to slightly compact (but not compact!) the top layer of soil and water the bush generously. The above-ground part of the shoot must be cut off, leaving only the three lower buds. This pruning will prevent premature aging of the bush.
Above we discussed how blackcurrant seedlings are planted . But there is another way to propagate this plant - by cuttings.
To do this, we will need cuttings with three to four buds, 18-20 cm long. They need to be cut in spring or autumn.
Then they are planted in prepared and weed-free soil, with a distance of 12-15 centimeters between them. Only one bud is left above the ground. Planting blackcurrant cuttings is a common way to propagate the plant.
Currant care
It’s not enough to plant correctly black currant, because without proper care, even the strongest plant can die. That's why it's not only important correct landing, but also care.
Watering
Currants love moisture, so timely watering is the basis for the prosperity of the bush on your site. Watering is especially important when the berries are ripening - then they will be large and juicy. Otherwise, even if abundant flowering you can get shriveled, small and sour berries.
True, it is also important to observe moderation here - too much watering on loamy soils can lead to rotting of the roots.
Loosening and mulching
Loosening is no less important. By keeping the top layer of soil loose, you ensure that the plant's roots receive enough oxygen. It is also good to remove weeds.
Mulching (covering) the top layer of soil will retain as much moisture as possible and prevent weeds from germinating. You can use hay, newspapers, chopped weed tops, tomatoes, fallen leaves, etc. as mulch. Do not use foliage with walnut and pine sawdust, as they can deteriorate the properties of the soil. When using newspapers as mulch, you need to remember that during flowering they need to be removed, because during this period insects beneficial to the plant come to the surface.
Fertilizer
Black currants need to be fed not only in the spring, but also at important stages of the plant’s seasonal life: flowering and berry formation. You can use chicken manure dissolved in water, ash, or complex fertilizer in granules as feed. When using the latter, it is better to cover the granules with a layer of soil or mulch.
Trimming
It is best to prune bushes in late autumn or early spring. This achieves three important goals - thinning the bush, rejuvenation and removal of diseased shoots.
Thinning will allow you to keep the bush not thickened, provide good access to sunlight to all shoots, and therefore better ripening of the berries. To do this, about 20 percent of the shoots are removed from the middle of the bush. The need for thinning can be easily determined visually.
Rejuvenation of the bush is carried out by removing old branches. This frees up space for young shoots and the plant bears fruit longer and more efficiently.
By removing diseased shoots, you prevent infection of nearby healthy ones, and thus improve the health of the bush. Most often, diseased shoots are also easy to identify by their appearance. You can notice them even during flowering and fruiting. If there were almost no flowers and berries on the shoot, then most likely it is sick and you can safely remove it.
Black currant- a popular garden crop, extremely healthy and tasty. Currants are widely used in household: It is eaten fresh, made into preserves, jams, jellies, and canned.
Compotes and juices, various tinctures, liqueurs and wines are prepared from the berries. From the article you will learn when and how to plant currants, care from planting to picking berries, correct pruning bushes, propagation by cuttings, pest control, popular varieties of currants.
A perennial shrub from the gooseberry family. The height of the bushes is up to 2 meters with fluffy pale green shoots that change color with age to brown.
The root system is fibrous, going to a depth of 20-40 cm.
A currant bush consists of branches of different ages located at different levels, thanks to which the currant bears fruit for 12-15 years.
In the spring, at a temperature of +5 degrees, the buds swell, flowering appears at +11 +15 degrees, because of this it is affected by spring frosts.
Most currant varieties do not require pollination and are also frost-resistant. Currant leaves are used in preservation (very fragrant), and tea is also brewed from them.
The berries have a sweet and sour taste, a strong aroma, and are rich in vitamins and microelements. The high content of vitamin C makes currants very healthy, good remedy for the prevention of diseases.
Planting currants
When to plant blackcurrant cuttings
Currants are propagated by cuttings, layering, and dividing the bush. Young green cuttings take root and begin to grow at any time during the growing season of the plant.
How to plant seedlings in autumn
It is best to plant black currants in the fall, in early October. Before the onset of spring, the seedlings will take root and quickly grow.
Suitable for currants fertile soil, light loams with a slightly alkaline reaction are best. It is better to plant seedlings in lighted places; if there is shading, the berries will not be sweet and the amount of harvest will decrease.
Before planting, the soil is dug up to a depth of 20-22 cm and fertilizers are applied: 2-4 kg of organic, 100-150 g of superphosphate, 20-30 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m 2 of land.
The planting hole is 50 cm in diameter and up to 40 cm deep, the distance between the bushes is 1.5 meters. Pour half a bucket of water into the hole, plant the seedling so that the root collar is at a depth of 5 cm, straighten the roots. Sprinkle the roots a little with soil, pour half a bucket of water and fill the hole to the top.
Mulch the top of the soil with humus or peat. Cut the shoots of seedlings at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground, leaving only 4-5 buds.
How to care for black currants
Caring for plants in spring is not difficult and is as follows:
Remove mite-affected buds;
Dig up the bushes and mulch the soil with humus or manure around the bushes;
Provide sufficient watering during the growth and flowering period;
Remove weeds and loosen the soil under the plants to a depth of 6 cm, 2-3 times a week. If the soil around the bush is mulched, loosening is not required;
After winter spend sanitary pruning currants;
In early spring treat bushes from pests and diseases;
Contribute nitrogen fertilizers;
During the flowering period, observe and inspect the flowers. If double inflorescences are detected, remove them to avoid spreading to other bushes.
Caring for currants in summer
Watering plays an important role when caring for currants in the hot summer. Also keep cleanliness between the bushes and remove weeds on time. Fertilize organic fertilizers, together with watering. Inspect the bushes all the time, and if pests or diseases are identified, take action, but do not treat them with chemicals three weeks before the berries ripen; folk remedies. When the berries begin to ripe, they need to be collected individually and selectively - only ripe ones as they ripen.
Caring for currants in autumn
After harvesting, be sure to water the currants, and you also need to loosen the soil. In the second half of September, apply fertilizers: organic and mineral, and also carry out formative pruning of currant bushes. In the fall, you need to start propagating and planting currants. For the winter, preventive treatment is carried out against pests and diseases.
Treatment against pests and diseases
In early spring, even before the buds swell, treat with a 1% solution of karbofos, copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. The soil also needs to be treated. In autumn, remove all fallen leaves from the area with currants; pests will not breed in them. Carry out preventive treatment with the same drugs in the fall.
Watering currants
After a snowy winter, the plant does not need abundant watering. Otherwise, if there was little snow, it is necessary to water regularly. During the period of growth, formation of ovaries and ripening of berries, water the plants warm water every 5 days. Water consumption is approximately 20-30 liters per 1 m2 of area, the soil should be wet to a depth of 40 cm. In case of dry autumn, water the currants generously for the winter.
Currant feeding
New bushes planted this year have enough fertilizer for growth and development, but when they are already 2 or more years old, they need to be fertilized regularly. Apply nitrogen fertilizer in the spring. For two-year-old plants: 40-50 g of urea; for 4-year-old or more plants, 20 g will be enough.
In the fall, apply 4-6 kg of organic fertilizer under each bush - manure, compost, chicken droppings. To organic add 50 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate.
Experts recommend spending it in summer (June-July) foliar feeding three times with the following solution: dilute separately 3 g of boric acid, 35 g of copper sulfate, 5 g of potassium permanganate, mix everything with 10 liters of water. After sunset or a cloudy day, spray the bushes with the mixture.
When and how to prune currants
Pruning currants in spring- carried out to achieve good harvests, remove unnecessary and weak shoots, so the plant does not waste energy on them. Last year's growths on branches 4-5 years old produce the most ovaries. Branches older than 6 years must be pruned. Dried and damaged branches are pruned. In the spring, before the buds open, the shoots of frozen and broken branches are shortened, and the main pruning is carried out in the fall, after the leaves have fallen.
Pruning in autumn- the shoot of the first year is cut at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil level. Two summer bushes free from zero shoots, leaving 3-5 strong branches. 3- and 4-year-old bushes are freed from zero shoots, leaving 3-6 of the most developed ones. Try to cut out underdeveloped and weak shoots in the middle of the bushes. On last year's branches, the tops are cut off, on 2- and 3-year-old branches, 3-4 buds are left on each branch, and the rest is cut off. Branches older than 6 years are removed completely. The cutting diagram is shown.
Proper pruning of currants - video
Black currants are propagated by woody or green cuttings.
Lignified cuttings
This is the most affordable and convenient way - planting material available at any time of the year. You can plant cuttings for rooting from spring to autumn. The length of the cut cuttings is about 20 cm and 8-10 mm thick (the middle of one-year shoots, shoots growing from the root or 3-year-old branches is suitable), it is advisable to cut them from healthy plants.
When cutting cuttings, the top cut is made above the bud at a distance of 1 cm with a sharp pruner, and the bottom cut is made under the lower bud.
Most often, cuttings are planted in the spring, but it is better to plant cuttings in the fall, when the buds enter a dormant period: for black currants this is mid-September - early October.
Cuttings are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm between plants and 40 between rows, this makes it possible to care for currants in the summer and conveniently dig them up for planting in a permanent place. It is better to mulch the soil with 3-5 cm of humus, this will prevent the soil from drying out. Also good option will use a film in which holes have been previously made for the cuttings. Watering is needed moderately, do not allow the soil to dry out. In summer, do not forget to feed the beds with mullein and weed the weeds.
If the bushes have time to form by autumn, they can be transplanted to a permanent place; if not, leave them for another season.
Green cuttings
Green cuttings are rooted only in a greenhouse. The length of the cutting is 5-10 cm with three green leaves. The cuttings are placed in water to form roots and after 2 weeks they are transplanted into a light peat soil mixture. During the first 3 weeks, spray the cuttings with water for better survival. After 1 month, the film can be removed, if the leaves remain green and elastic, the film is removed completely.
Control of diseases and pests of black currant
Currant diseases
List of common currant diseases:
-- septoria- white spotting, angular or round spots on the leaves, first brown, then light with a dark border;
-- anthracnose- small spots with small brown tubercles, leaves dry out and fall off starting from the lower branches;
-- terryness- you can see ugly flowers of a lilac hue, and the leaves on the young shoots have become dark, the currants stop bearing fruit;
-- gray mold
- brown spots on currant leaves;
-- powdery mildew- white loose coating on berries and leaves, which turns into a brown film;
-- striped mosaic- you can notice a yellow pattern on the leaves around the main veins;
-- columnar rust- appears on the leaves: small on the upper side yellow spots, on the underside there are growths with spores yellow color in the form of hairs.
Treatment may not always give results - viral diseases cannot be cured. The best prevention proper care for currants throughout the season and respond to the slightest manifestations of diseases. For prevention, spray the soil and blackcurrant bushes with solutions of Bordeaux mixture, karbofos or copper sulfate in early spring before the buds swell.
Currant pests
Currant pests, species that can often be found:
-- pale-legged sawfly- its caterpillars eat the leaves, leaving only the veins;
-- biennial leaf roller- damage buds and berries;
-- moth- berries that are damaged ripen earlier than expected;
-- shoot aphid
- Causes damage to leaves by feeding on sap. The leaves curl, dry out, the shoots stop growing and become bent;
-- kidney mite- damages the kidneys by climbing into them for the winter and eating them out from the inside;
-- spider mite
- the leaves become marbled in color, dry out and fall off;
-- gall midges- they eat away currant shoots from the inside, which leads to their death. Flower gall midges damage the buds, after which they fall off;
-- fruit sawfly- causes damage to black currant berries, the berries take on a faceted shape.
Each type of pest is combated as it appears on the bushes. Treatment agents can be folk or chemicals - decide for yourself what to choose. But after carrying out prevention in early spring, when all the snow has not yet melted (the buds are still dormant), pour boiling water over the currant bushes from a watering can. This way you will destroy pests on the branches and in the ground under the bushes. After the snow has melted, treat the soil and bushes with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.
Care and pest control without chemicals - video
Winter-hardy varieties are suitable for growing in northern regions - Kent Goliath, Lia is fertile, Neapolitan.
They can also be divided into early, middle and late varieties based on ripening.
The most popular varieties:
-- Belarusian sweet- early, self-fertile variety with large berries, resistant to bud mite and anthracnose;
-- Premiere- an early variety with large berries with a dessert taste. High yield. Resistant to mites;
-- Moscow- early variety, winter-hardy, self-fertile with large berries and average yield;
-- Boskop giant- mid-early variety with large sweet and sour berries;
-- Primorsky champion- an early variety with powerful bushes, wrinkled leaves and large round fruits on long clusters. They have winter hardiness and high yield;
-- Enchantress- medium ripening period of berries, low bush with large shiny fruits. High yield, resistant to pests and diseases;
-- Treasure - medium grade with a low bush and tasty, large berries. High-yielding variety. Moderately resistant to powdery mildew and bud mites;
-- Oryol serenade- average late variety with medium-sized berries, high yield. Resistant to diseases and pests;
-- Gross- late variety with bush height above average. Large berries weighing 5 g, high yield. Resistant to fungal diseases and moderately resistant to mites;
-- Kent- late variety with low-growing spreading bushes and large leaves. The berries are large, sour in taste, high yield.
This is a small part of the listed blackcurrant varieties from the whole variety, you make your choice based on weather conditions your region.
Wishing you high berry harvests!
Currant (lat. Ribes)- a genus of plants in the Gooseberry family, which includes up to two hundred plant species, of which about fifty are common in the Northern Hemisphere. In the 11th century, currants appeared in the monastery gardens of Rus', and only after that they migrated to European countries. Currants are a very popular garden crop in our country. In addition to black and red currants, white and golden currants are also cultivated today, but black currants prevail over other types both as the most delicious berry and as the healthiest.
In addition to the fact that it can be usefully consumed fresh, jam, jellies, compotes are made from it, wines, syrups, liqueurs and liqueurs are prepared. Currants are also in demand in medicine, as a raw material for the pharmaceutical industry.
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Planting and caring for currants
- Landing: It is possible in early spring, but it is better in early autumn.
- Lighting: bright light.
- The soil: non-acidic, well-drained and fertilized soil.
- Watering: regularly, approximately once every five days, spending 20-30 liters of water per 1 m² of plot: the soil should be wet to a depth of 30-40 cm. White and red currants are less moisture-loving.
- Trimming: In the spring, sanitary cleaning is done, and in the fall, during the leaf fall period, the main pruning of black currants is carried out. For white and red currants, spring pruning is sufficient.
- Feeding: if the soil was filled with fertilizers before planting currants, fertilizing begins only in the third year: nitrogen is applied to the site in early spring, three foliar feedings of the bushes are carried out in June-July, in the fall the soil in the root area is dug up with manure, compost or chicken droppings and with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
- Reproduction: arcuate layering, green and woody cuttings and rooting of two-year-old branches.
- Pests: pale-legged, fruit and yellow sawflies, biennial leafrollers, moths, shoot, gall and red gall aphids, moths, spider and kidney mites, glass beetles, gall midges.
- Diseases: anthracnose, septoria, white spot, terry, gray rot, goblet and columnar rust, necrosis of shoots and branches, powdery mildew, striped mosaic, nectria necrosis.
Read more about growing currants below.
Currant bushes - description
Currant - perennial shrubby plant, compact or spreading, one to two meters high with fluffy pale green shoots that turn brown with age. Every year new shoots grow from dormant buds. The currant rhizome is a powerful system, going 60 cm deep. The three- or five-lobed currant leaves have a diameter of three to twelve centimeters, a serrated edge, they are dark green on the upper side of the plate, and pubescent along the veins on the lower side. Bell-shaped light purple or pinkish flowers are collected in drooping racemes.
The fruit is a fragrant berry. The color and size of the berry depends on the type and variety of currant. Currants bloom in May-June and bear fruit in July-August. Fruiting begins already in the second year after planting. Along with such popular crops as strawberries and wild strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries, currants are grown not only in private gardens, but also in industrial scale. Currants are a relative of the ubiquitously grown berry gooseberry.
Planting currants
When to plant currants
Among garden and berry crops, currants are long-lived; they begin to bear fruit the next year after planting, and if currants are cared for at the proper level, then one bush can bear fruit for more than fifteen years. And therefore, our task is to clarify for you such important issues for the longevity of the crop as planting and caring for currants. The most best time The best time to plant currants is the beginning of autumn, although in special cases you can plant currants in the spring.
Two-year-old currant seedlings with three skeletal roots are selected for planting. A store-bought seedling should be carefully inspected so as not to buy a sick or weak specimen.
Currants prefer to grow in a sunny, wind-protected location in well-drained, non-acidic soil. If you need to reduce the acidity of the soil on the site, then before planting currants, add 300-800 g of lime per m² to the soil for digging. In addition to lime, you need to add 2-4 kg of organic fertilizer, as well as 100-150 g of granulated superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium sulfate for each m² of land. Digging depth is 20-22 cm.
Planting currants in autumn
The holes for planting currants should be approximately 55x55 and about 45 cm deep. The distance between them is one and a half to two meters. A bucket of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and 45 g of potassium chloride are added to each hole. To avoid burning the root system of the seedling, fertilizer is sprinkled on top with a layer of soil 7-9 cm thick. You need to dig holes and add fertilizer to them a couple of weeks before planting the seedlings, so that the soil has time to settle.
The seedlings are immersed in holes at an angle of 45º so that the root collar is at a depth of 5 cm. The roots are carefully straightened: this is necessary so that additional roots and shoots begin to form from the buds buried in the soil - this is how powerful currant bushes with a large number of strong branches. Lightly sprinkle the roots with soil, compact it, water the seedlings at the rate of half a bucket of water for each bush and fill the hole to the top with soil. Then make a furrow around the bush and pour water into it.
Mulch the soil under the bush with humus so that a crust does not form after watering. Trim the shoots of the seedling at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground so that there are only 4-5 buds on the short remnants of the shoots, and you can stick the pieces into wet soil, where they will almost certainly take root.
Planting currants in spring
If you need to plant currants in the spring at any cost, do it before the sap begins to flow, until the buds on the seedlings begin to open. All the inconvenience spring planting currants is that at the beginning of the growing season the time period when you can plant currants is too short - they begin to grow too early, and the soil may not yet warm up to the temperature necessary for the seedlings to take root. It’s good if you guessed to dig a hole in the fall, and the soil in it has had time to settle, this will make your task easier.
Currant care
Caring for currants in spring
How to care for currants during the growing season? For convenience, we divided the period into three sections according to the seasons. Growing currants and caring for them in spring is not difficult and consists of the following:
- remove the buds affected by the mite, and if most of the buds are affected, then cut the shoots on the bush almost to the base;
- shallowly dig up the bush and mulch the soil around it with manure or humus;
- provide sufficient watering of currants during the growth and flowering period;
- remove weeds from the area and loosen the soil under the bushes to a depth of 6-8 cm at least 2-3 times a week. Mulch helps to avoid frequent loosening;
- carry out sanitary pruning of currants after winter;
- in early spring, carry out preventive treatment of currants against pests and diseases;
- in May, when currants begin to bloom, inspect the flowers and, if double inflorescences are found, cut them out, and if this phenomenon becomes widespread on some bush, uproot the bush so that the double inflorescence does not spread to other plants;
- fertilize currants with nitrogen fertilizers.
Caring for currants in summer
Watering, which currants really need, becomes especially important in the hot season. Read about how and when to water it in a special section. It is also necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the soil between the bushes and remove weeds in a timely manner. In the summer, you need to feed the currants with organic fertilizers, combining them with watering.
Closely monitor the health of the plants and immediately respond to the slightest changes in their appearance, but do not treat currants with chemicals against diseases or pests later than three weeks before the berries ripen; try to use folk remedies. When the berries begin to ripen, collect them selectively as they ripen: black currants - one berry at a time, red and white - in tassels.
Caring for currants in autumn
After harvesting, currants need watering followed by loosening the soil. At the end of September, currants are fed with organic and mineral fertilizers and carry out sanitary and formative pruning of bushes. At the same time, they are engaged in planting and propagating currants. If the autumn turns out to be dry, carry out abundant pre-winter watering of currants and preventive treatment against pests and pathogens that have settled for the winter in the bark of shoots or in the soil under the bushes.
Currant processing
As is known, healthy plants rarely affected by diseases or pests, but preventive treatment of plants is necessary. How to spray currants so that they survive the season painlessly and produce a bountiful, high-quality harvest, especially since in early spring, along with the awakening of the buds, pathogenic bacteria, fungi, and larvae also wake up harmful insects, overwintered in the cracks of currant bark or in top layer soil.
Before the buds on the bushes swell, treat the currants with a one percent solution of karbofos, Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate. You can spray the currants with nitrafen, not forgetting to treat the soil on the site. When the growing season comes to an end, rake up all the fallen leaves and remove them from the site so that pests do not settle in them for the winter, and carry out autumn prevention by spraying the currant bushes and the soil around them with the preparations already listed.
Watering currants
If the winter was snowy, then the currant bushes will not need frequent watering in the spring, since the soil will be saturated with melt water. If there was no snow and there is little moisture in the ground, then you will have to water the currants regularly. During the period of formation of ovaries and filling of berries, especially if there is dry heat, currants require moistening the soil with warm water approximately once every five days. In order for the soil to get wet to a depth of 30-40 cm, the approximate consumption should be 20-30 liters per m² of area.
It is necessary to pour water under the bush so that drops of moisture do not fall on the fruits and leaves of the currant. It is best to make circular grooves 10-15 cm deep at a distance of 30-40 cm from the crown projection or arrange irrigation areas around the bushes, limiting their circumference with an earthen roller 15 cm high. At the end of the growing season, in case of a dry autumn, carry out pre-winter watering of currants, which will provide its roots with moisture until the end of winter.
Red and white currants are not so demanding on soil moisture.
Currant feeding
Newly planted bushes have received enough fertilizer to last for two years, but then there comes a time when it will be necessary to fertilize regularly. In early spring, currants need nitrogen fertilizers. Young two-year-old bushes will need 40-50 g of urea, and four-year-old and more mature bushes will need two feedings of 15-20 g each. In the fall, it is necessary to add four to six kilograms of organic fertilizer to the soil under each bush - chicken manure, manure or compost, according to 50 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. This is the required minimum.
What else to feed currants with? to strengthen her immunity to diseases and pests and lay the foundation for good harvest? Experts recommend three foliar feedings of currants in June-July: 3 g of boric acid, 5 g of potassium permanganate and 35 g of copper sulfate are diluted separately and mixed with 10 liters of water. Bushes are sprayed with this composition after sunset or on a cloudy, windless day.
Currant pruning
Pruning currants in spring
Currant pruning is necessary so that the plant can bear fruit to its full potential, without wasting energy and nutrition on unnecessary and weak shoots. Large quantity berries are formed on last year's growths of four to five year old branches. Therefore, a currant branch that is more than six years old is a burden for the plant and must be removed. It is also necessary to rid the bush of branches that are dried out and affected by pests or diseases. If you remove unnecessary shoots in time, your currant, if it is black, can bear fruit for up to twenty years, and if it is red, then for fifteen years.
When and how to prune currants? The main pruning is carried out in the fall, after the leaves have fallen, and in the spring, before the buds open, shoots that have frozen over the winter are shortened to healthy tissue, and broken and dead branches are cut out. In summer, you can pinch the ends of young shoots to stimulate their tillering and give the bush the correct shape.
Pruning currants in autumn
For currants in the first year of growth, if you remember, during planting, all shoots are cut off at a height of 10-15 cm from ground level. Bushes of the second year of life are freed from zero shoots, leaving only 3-5 of the strongest of them, which will become skeletal branches in the future. On currant bushes of the third and fourth year, zero shoots are cut out, leaving 3-6 of the most developed ones. Do not allow the bushes to thicken; cut out underdeveloped and weak shoots from the middle of the bush. The tops of last year's shoots are trimmed.
The branches of the second and third years are pruned, leaving two to four buds on each branch. By this age, with proper and timely pruning, the bush is completely formed. At the next stage, branches older than six years appear, which should be cut at the root. All other branches are cut according to the described scheme.
Pruning red and white currants
Red and white currants are pruned in the spring. The principle and pattern of pruning are the same as for black currants, but the tops of the growths are not pinched, and the shoots of the second and third years are not shortened. Simply remove branches older than seven years (for these types of currants, these are considered old), cut out unnecessary new shoots, broken or diseased branches. If the old branch is still bearing fruit, cut it back to the nearest strong fork. This will extend its life and fruiting period.
Currant propagation
How to propagate currants
Most often, currants are propagated vegetatively - by arcuate layering, lignified or green cuttings, and by rooting two-year-old branches from a bush. Red currants reproduce well by layering, but worse by cuttings. Seed propagation of currants is possible only for specialists, and for an amateur gardener this is a long and unreliable method, so we will not describe how to propagate currants by seeds.
Propagation of currants by cuttings
Currant cuttings are carried out by two types of cuttings - green and lignified. Propagation by lignified cuttings- the most affordable way, since you can get planting material at any time of the year. Currant cuttings can be planted for rooting in both autumn and spring. It is better to harvest cuttings at the beginning of winter, before severe frosts, which can destroy currant buds.
It is better to cut cuttings 18-20 cm long and 8-10 mm thick from the middle of one-year-old shoots growing from the root or from three-year-old branches. To preserve them before planting, you need to seal the lower and upper sections with melted garden pitch or paraffin - this way they will not lose moisture during storage. The cuttings are wrapped in lightly wet paper, then in polyethylene and buried in the snow or put in the refrigerator. In early spring, cuttings are planted on training beds at an angle of 45º at a distance of 15 cm from each other with row spacing 20 cm wide. The lower end of the cutting, covered with paraffin, is cut off obliquely; when planting, the cutting is buried so that only two buds remain above the surface.
The beds are watered abundantly and mulched with sawdust, humus or fine peat. Arched supports up to half a meter high are installed above the bed and polyethylene is thrown over them, which is removed only when the first leaves appear on the cuttings. Moderate watering is necessary, but even short-term drying out of the soil should not be allowed. In summer, the garden bed needs to be weeded, watered and fed with mullein. By autumn, the cuttings produce seedlings 30 to 50 cm high with one or two shoots. The most developed of them can be transplanted to a permanent place this fall, while the weaker ones can be grown for another year.
Propagation of currants by green cuttings
Green cuttings can only be rooted in a greenhouse. True, there is another method worthy of attention. Cuttings are taken from well-developed shoots, but the apex is not used for rooting. The length of the cutting with two green leaves should be 5-10 cm. The cuttings are placed in water, after two weeks they form roots 10-12 mm long, and the cuttings are transplanted into bags with soil, in which holes have been previously made to drain excess water. Water the cuttings every 2-3 days so that the soil in the bag has the consistency of sour cream. After 7-10 days, watering is reduced so that the soil reaches its normal density.
Keep the cuttings at home until May; by this time they should grow to 50-60 cm in height. Before planting, the bags are cut, and the cuttings are buried diagonally into the soil 15 cm deeper than they grew in the bag.
Reproduction of currants by layering
The simplest and most reliable way to propagate currants is by layering. This method allows you to obtain strong seedlings with a powerful root system in just one year. A healthy two-year-old currant branch is used as a layer, growing obliquely on the periphery of the bush so that it can be easily bent to the ground.
Dig a furrow 10-12 cm deep under it, bend the branch and lay it along the furrow so that the top of the branch 20-30 cm long protrudes from the furrow. Secure the middle part of the layer in the furrow with a metal bracket or wire hook. Fill the furrow with soil and water regularly throughout the summer. By autumn, it will become a full-fledged seedling with a well-developed root system and several branches, which can be dug up and transplanted to a permanent place.
Currant diseases
Currant varieties
Currant varieties differ not only in the color of the berries, but also in the time of their ripening. According to this criterion, they are divided into early, mid-early, middle, mid-late and late.
TO early varieties relate:
- Pearl– black variety with very large (up to 6 g) sweet berries;
- Venus– black currant with berries weighing up to 5.5 g, sweet and sour, tall bush;
- Black BMW– black sweet berries weighing up to 7 g, vigorous, compact bush;
- Jonker Van Tets– very large red berries with a sweet and sour taste;
- Ural white– white currant, large, sweet, spreading bush.
Mid-early varieties:
- Bashkir giant- black, very large berries sweet and sour taste, high resistance to diseases and pests;
- Belarusian sweet– very large sweet blackcurrants;
- Umka– white currant with large sweet berries, vigorous, erect bush.
Medium varieties:
- Sanyuta– black berries weighing up to 5.5 g, sweet and sour, vigorous, compact bush;
- Osipovskaya sweet– a variety of red currant with large sweet berries, a slightly spreading bush, vigorous;
- Imperial yellow– yellow currant, which is actually high-yielding variety white currants with small berries of sweet and sour taste on medium-sized, medium-spreading bushes;
- Versailles white– a white currant variety with large and medium-sized fruits with a sweet and sour taste.
Mid-late varieties:
- Anniversary Kopanya– black currant with sweet and sour berries, vigorous, compact bush;
- Roland– red currant with a sweet and sour taste, a winter-hardy variety, resistant to fungi.
Late varieties:
- Lazy person– black currant with very large sweet berries, vigorous, compact bush;
- Valentinovka– very large berries for red currants with a sour taste, ideal for making jelly.
Currently, this type of plant is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners. exotic look like golden currants. It arouses interest for its decorative qualities - its flowers of different shades of yellow have a strong, pleasant aroma, and the leaves acquire bright, variegated colors in the fall. The color of the berries is also varied: brown, orange, pink, red, blue-black, yellow - it depends on the variety. However, the taste of golden currant berries is much inferior to the taste of black, red and white.
Currant hybrids
Today, only two currant hybrids are widely known. Yoshta- a hybrid of protruding gooseberry, common gooseberry and black currant, bred in 1970. Breeders worked on it for about forty years. Yoshta grows on powerful spreading bushes about one and a half meters high and of the same diameter. The bush is thornless, berries weighing up to 5 g with dense skin, black with a purple tint, collected in a cluster of 3-5 pieces, have a pleasant nutmeg flavor. The hybrid is resistant to frost and some diseases and pests, lives 20-30 years, and is common in Western Europe.
Kroma- a Swedish hybrid of currants and gooseberries with large, very smooth black berries up to 2 cm in diameter, just like joshta berries, collected in clusters of 3-5 pieces. Krom does not have the aroma of currants; the taste of the berries resembles gooseberries and currants at the same time. In Swedish conditions, the berries ripen by mid-July.
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Currant
Currant berries are extremely tasty and healthy. This plant is a long-lived plant garden crops, the fruits of which appear a year after planting. If you take good care of the bush, you can get fruits from the bush for 15 years.
Currants - optimal timing for planting
The optimal time for planting currants is considered to be the beginning of autumn, although they are occasionally planted in the spring. As a rule, two-year-old seedlings that have three skeletal roots are planted. Before purchasing, seedlings are carefully inspected so as not to purchase diseased or weakened specimens.
The bushes grow and develop well in a place where there is sufficient lighting and protection from the wind; the soil should be non-acidic and sufficiently drained
To get rid of excess soil acidity before planting, up to 800 g of lime is added per square meter of soil, as well as two to four kg of organic fertilizer, 150 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate. After this, the soil is dug up to a depth of 22 cm.
Features of autumn planting currants
The holes for seedlings are formed with dimensions of 55x55 cm, while their depth should reach up to 45 cm, and the distance between holes should be 1.5-2 m. A bucket of humus, 100 g of superphosphate, 45 g of potassium chloride are added to all holes. To prevent fertilizers from burning the roots, fertilizers should be sprinkled with soil to a depth of 7-9 cm. Dig holes and apply fertilizers 14-20 days before planting - the soil will then have time to settle.
The currants are placed in the recesses at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root collar at a depth of five centimeters
Planting currant cuttings The roots are carefully straightened to ensure the growth and development of additional roots and shoots from buds sprinkled with soil - then the bushes will grow powerful with beautiful branches. In addition, the root system is sprinkled with soil, then it is compacted, each bush is watered with 0.5 buckets of water, and the hole is filled with soil. A furrow is formed around the planting and filled with water, and the nearby soil is mulched with humus to prevent the formation of a crust. At the end, it is necessary to trim the shoots at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil, so that four to five buds remain. The cuttings are placed in moist soil to allow them to develop roots.
Features of planting in spring
In the spring, currants are planted before the sap flow begins, so that the buds have not yet opened. The disadvantage of planting in spring is that at the beginning of the growing season there is very little time left for planting - currants begin to grow very early, and the soil at that time may not be warm enough for rooting. If you dig a hole in the fall, this will allow the soil to settle, which will make the task much easier.
Caring for a currant bush Currant care
Spring currant care
Spring care for currants suggests:
- removing the buds that have been affected by the mite or the entire shoot if there are too many mites;
- digging up the bush and mulching the soil using manure or humus;
- periodic bush;
- removing weeds and loosening the soil two to three times a week. When using mulching, you can loosen the soil less often;
- pruning bushes after wintering;
- processing in early spring;
- When the bushes are flowering, the plants are inspected and if double inflorescences are found, they are removed.
Summer currant care
In summer, watering the bush is very important. It is necessary to keep the soil clean between the bushes and fight. Watering the bushes is combined with organic fertilizing. Treating bushes against pests and diseases should be stopped three weeks before the berries ripen.
Autumn care for currants
When the harvest is harvested, it is necessary to water the bushes and loosen the soil. Feeding the bushes with mineral and organic fertilizers is carried out in the last days of September. planted and propagated. If the autumn turns out to be dry, you need to water the bushes generously and treat them to prevent diseases and pest damage.
Treatment of currant bushes from pests and diseases How to treat bushes
Even the most beautiful lush currant bushes can suffer from pests and diseases, so the bushes need to be treated preventively before the buds swell. For this purpose, use a 1% solution of karbofos, copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. They and the soil are also treated with nitrafen. When the growing season ends, you need to remove all fallen leaves from the area to prevent pests from infesting there. Treat the soil and bushes with the indicated preparations.
Watering currants
After a snowy winter in the spring, you will not have to water the bushes often, but after a winter with little snow, you will need to regularly water the currant bushes. When the ovaries are formed and the crop is filling and in dry weather, the soil is watered with warm water once every five days. To penetrate moisture to a depth of 30-40 cm, it is necessary to pour 20-30 liters of water per square meter, pouring it exclusively under the bush, avoiding drops on the leaves and berries. At the end of the growing season during dry autumn, winter watering of the bushes is carried out, providing moisture to the root system of currant bushes until the end of the winter period.
It is worth noting that white and red types of currants are less demanding in terms of constantly maintaining a certain level of moisture in the soil.
Top dressing for currants
When planted, the bushes receive the amount of nutrients that will be sufficient for growth and development for two years, but then the currants need to be fed regularly. Nitrogen fertilizers need to be applied in early spring. For two-year-old bushes, 40-50 g of urea is applied, and for four-year-old bushes, they are fed twice with doses of 15-20 grams. In the autumn season, each bush is fertilized with 4-6 kilograms of organic matter.
Top dressing for currants To improve the bushes' resistance to various diseases and lay the foundation for the future harvest, three foliar feedings of the bushes are carried out in June-July - 3 g of boric acid, 5 g of potassium permanganate and 35 g of copper sulfate are dissolved in separate containers and combined in 10 liters of water. Bushes are treated with this solution. This is done when the sun sets, or on a cloudy day.
Pruning currant bushes
How to prune bushes in spring
Pruning bushes stimulates their fruiting, since the plant's energy is not wasted on unnecessary shoots - weak and poorly developing. It is necessary to prune branches that are older than six years, as well as dried and diseased branches.
How to prune bushes in autumn
In the first year of life, the currant bush needs to cut off all shoots at a distance of 10-15 cm from the ground. On the second step, cut off the zero shoots, leaving the three strongest ones. At 3-4 years of life, zero shoots are cut off, leaving about six of the most developed ones. You also need to cut off weak shoots from the middle of the bush, the top - on last year's shoots, as well as all branches that are more than six years old.
Red And white currants are pruned in the spring, without pinching the tops of the growths, and two- and three-year-old shoots are not shortened. Branches older than seven years, unnecessary young shoots and affected branches are pruned.
The structure of a currant bush Currant propagation
This is usually done vegetatively - with the help of arcuate layering, cuttings, and rooting two-year-old branches. Red - it is better to propagate by layering.
Propagation by cuttings involves the use of two types - green and lignified
Most in an accessible way will be propagated by lignified cuttings. This can be done at any time, but I make preparations at the beginning of winter. Cuttings are cut from the middle of one-year-old shoots or from three-year-old branches, and their length should be up to 20 cm and thickness about 10 mm. Cuttings for the winter placed in the refrigerator and planted in early spring.
Rooting green cuttings are carried out in greenhouse conditions. They are taken from shoots that have developed well. The length of the cuttings is about 10 cm. The cuttings are placed in water, and two weeks later, after the roots have formed, they are planted in bags of soil, where they grow until May. When planting, the bag is cut and planted together with the cuttings in the soil.
Reproduction of currants by layering Reproduction by layering is the most in a simple way, which produces strong seedlings with a well-developed root system. A two-year-old branch is bent to the ground, secured with a hook and covered with soil, constantly watered and a seedling is obtained in the fall.
Currant diseases and pests
To prevent and prevent bushes, it is necessary to monitor their health and treat the bushes and the soil around them with solutions of karbofos, nitrafen, Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate in the spring (before the buds swell) and in the fall.
In addition, culture is sometimes subjected to negative influence from many, including:
- pale-legged sawfly,
- biennial leaf roller,
- fire,
- moth,
- spider mite and others.
They are fought with chemicals and by treating the bushes in autumn and early spring.
