In every country house there are a number necessary tools For various works. To build a house, chop wood or butcher meat, you need an ax. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself. The purchased tool may turn out to be inconvenient or unreliable, and this is unsafe. A handmade tool is particularly convenient and reliable. Before you make an ax handle with your own hands at home, you need to know what an ax looks like, what parts it consists of, and decide on its purpose.
Types of axes
The tool is usually classified according to the type of handle.
In addition to basic axes, there are tools designed for special works. These include: cleaver, carpenter's axe, large carpenter's axe, sculpture axe, as well as a shaped tool and an ax for concave surfaces.
Making your own ax
The components of an ax are: an ax handle, a metal blade and wedges. How easy and convenient it will be to work with the tool depends on the length and shape of its handle, called the axe. Let's look at how to make it correctly and in the right size. To do this, you need to select the material and cut out the workpiece according to the template.
Homemade product impregnate protective agent, this will help protect the ax from rotting. Impregnation is done in several layers of drying oil or linseed oil. Each subsequent layer must be completely saturated. It is not recommended to coat products with varnishes and paints. They will give the handle a sliding effect, and the ax will constantly begin to slip out while working. Sometimes a bright dye is added to the impregnation. The tool handle acquires bright color, and this is good when work is carried out in overgrown areas. The ax will always be visible and will not get lost.
Selecting a metal nozzle
It is impossible to forge metal tightly with your own hands, so they buy it in hardware store. Tips for choosing a piercing part:
- A high-quality blade should be solid, without nicks, chips or dents.
- The metal is marked according to GOST.
- The ends of the butt should be perpendicular to the blade.
- The eyelet should be cone-shaped.
Attaching an ax to an ax handle
The process is carried out in several stages, such as fitting, fitting and wedging.
Cracks that occur when installing a metal sheet can be eliminated using epoxy resin. It is poured into the cuts before driving the wedges. The resin will dry in a day. And only then can you saw off the protruding part.
Blade sharpening and hardening
The performance of the tool depends on the sharp blade. Therefore, you need to know how to sharpen an ax correctly. For each type of work, a different blade processing angle is selected.
Sharpening is done on an electric grinding wheel, smoothly moving the blade along the circle at an angle of 45 degrees. To quality cutting edge has not deteriorated, the blade should not be allowed to overheat. To do this, place a container of water near the grinding machine. The blade is periodically lowered into it for cooling. At the end of the work, the blade is polished. To do this, use a sharpening stone or sandpaper.
Metal sheet made from soft material, will have to be sharpened frequently. To avoid this, you can harden the ax. For this you will need gas-burner, oil and water. The blade is heated on gas until a red color appears. Then it is dipped in oil and cold water. Everything is repeated 3 times.
A universal tool that may be needed at the dacha, on a hike in the forest, or just on vacation near a river, or at home for household purposes, is an ax. Despite his simple design, this device has many uses and varies in manufacturing methods and quality.
Main characteristics
All types of axes are divided into three main groups:
- splitting axes;
- for felling work in the forest;
- universal tools for construction and household purposes.
Within each selected group, there are varieties that are determined by purpose and characteristics components. Accounting the most important parameters will help you decide which ax is best to choose. It is worth noting the fact that you simply cannot do without an ax on a summer cottage!
Weight parameters
The possibility of its use in wood processing depends on how heavy the tool is. The minimum value is considered to be a mass of 0.9 kg. Lighter models are used only for a limited range of household and household purposes when finishing small workpieces, for example, for sharpening wedges.
For standard work with wood, you will need a tool of 0.9-1.7 kg. It will be effective both when chopping medium-thick firewood and when carrying out construction work. Heavier splitting axes weighing 2.2-2.5 kg are used for chopping large firewood. They have a longer ax handle.
Blade shape and sharpening
In practice, axes with three types of butts are used:
- wide, designed for felling timber;
- average, having a universal purpose;
- narrow - used when carrying out neat carpentry work.
Features of the shape of the blade can be assessed from the photo of the ax. Straight sharpening allows you to deliver high-quality chopping blows, but curved sharpening is suitable for both chopping and piercing movements. For example, a rounded blade small sizes focused on greater penetration into the tree and cutting fibers in the transverse direction.
With a sharpening angle of up to 40 degrees, increased penetration into the workpiece is ensured, although the dulling speed will be higher. In cleavers, the degree of sharpening at different edges of the blade will vary.
Blade material
For carpenter's axes, the blade is made by stamping low-carbon steel. Greater strength of the tool for lumberjacks is provided by forging steel U7 and 60G.
It should be remembered that the use of mild steel causes the tool to quickly become dull. Blades made of hard or hardened steel are prone to chipping.
Making an ax
The length of the ax depends on the purpose of the tool. The most comfortable indicator is 50-70 cm. But we must remember that the swing and force of the blow depend on the length. Therefore, for heavier work, a tool larger than 70 cm is required.
The ax handle can be metal, including one with a special rubber lining. It's more robust design, but it has a big drawback - it does not dampen vibration well.
The force of the blow, together with the resistance of the workpiece, is absorbed by the axe. And therefore it is recommended to use wood, in particular birch, for its manufacture. But cheaper and more accessible pine dampens vibration much worse.
A tool with an oak handle is suitable for lumberjacks. The handle itself should be comfortable, without knots or chips. At the end of the ax there is a thickening and a hole for fastening.
Types of axes
Depending on the purpose and purpose of use, you can select optimal design tool. There are various types of axes on sale.
Tourist
This is a lighter and more compact tool that can have a rounded blade shape. It is sharp and can be used as a knife. Handle length up to 50 cm. Supplied with a protective cover.
Such an ax is quite expensive, cannot be used for chopping, and rust often appears. Popular brands include Geter Gator II and Expedition HB-040.
Household and catering
In everyday life or in food establishments, axes are used for chopping meat or bones. The design features a wide blade made of durable steel with an angled sharpening. This is a heavy and durable model.
The big disadvantage is the need to use physical force to work. Also, the wooden ax handle can dry out. The products “Meat Chopper” and “Trud” VACHA S901 are known.
For firewood
Catalog of axes in this category with best quality includes TUTAHI, KRAFTOOL Rhine and Universal products.
For these purposes, models with a blade made of hardened steel with a sharpening of 40-60 degrees and wooden ax. This ensures simplicity and efficiency in operation.
Bilateral
This tool has two identical high-carbon steel blades that provide excellent balancing. The sharpening angle can be different, and the ax handle can be replaceable.
However, this is a traumatic and heavy design, excluding the possibility of use as percussion instrument. Experts recommend models such as SOG F12 and OCHSENKOPF.
For wood cutting
A large ax with a long handle for a strong blow. There is a rounded blade. The instrument has a narrow specialization and is used only for its intended purpose. Lumberjacks may find HULKAFORS, SCANDINAVIAN FOREST AX or WETTERLINGS AMERICAN FOREST AX brands suitable.
Plotnitsky
This is a well balanced instrument sharp blade and a comfortable handle. You cannot use it for chopping, and after purchasing the product you need to select the required sharpening characteristics.
You can choose Gardena 1000A 08714-48.000.00 or Wetterlings Hjartum Carpenter’s Ax for this purpose. The Izhevsky ax is also popular.
Forged
The highest quality, strongest and most durable products. A forged ax is most often made according to individual orders. The Taiga brands and products from the Phoenix workshop are popular.
Cleaver
This ax has an elongated handle, a steel blade with a sharpening of 40-60 degrees. This is a highly specialized instrument that is well balanced. Used for processing thick and dense wood. Experts recommend using VIPUKIRVES or Council Tool Hudson Bay Ax products.
Dachny
Axes “DACHNIK” standart SZAN330, T-03-1 or VOREL 33107 will help solve everyday problems in suburban area. Such models are suitable for chopping firewood and are used when cutting logs.
They are distinguished by their versatility, a blade made of durable steel and a wooden handle, which, however, can dry out after 5 years.
Making an ax with your own hands
If you are interested in the question of how to make an ax, then remember that you will not be able to make a blade from scratch yourself. You can only give a regular blade the required form by processing with a grinder or an emery wheel.
But it’s quite possible to make an ax handle. To do this you need:
- select a workpiece with a diameter of more than 120 mm and a length 200 mm longer than the planned handle;
- dry for several months at a temperature of 22-24 degrees and a humidity of 15%;
- with an ax or big knife remove excess wood in accordance with the outlined contour;
- carry out processing with a chisel and hammer.
Now it is important to learn how to mount an ax correctly. This is done using gauze and epoxy resin. The presence of a wedge provides better strength. After this, grinding is done, and the ax handle is varnished. Sharpening is done on a machine or manually.
The ax is useful assistant both at the dacha, and on a hike and when working in the forest. You just need to choose the right model, focusing on the required characteristics and workmanship of a particular instance.
Photo of an ax
“It’s not the fur coat that warms a man, it’s the axe,” says popular wisdom. An indispensable assistant on the farm, " right hand"for any carpenter - this is all about a very simple tool called an axe.
Whether it's an ax for the garden or for professional use, the demand for this tool will never go away.
A conscientious attitude towards operation, the ability to properly prepare a tool for work will not only help to avoid troubles, but will also serve as a guarantee of the successful completion of the planned work.
Experienced craftsmen know how to make an axe. Having understood the technology and studied practical recommendations, making an ax with your own hands is not difficult even for a non-professional.
Piercing attachment for an ax
When choosing a piercing metal part for a future ax, special attention deserves the quality of the material. Parts manufactured according to GOST are what you need.
You should avoid markings MRTU, OST or TU on the nozzle, because these designations allow for changes in technology during the pouring process of the part (the addition of third-party substances that affect the quality of the material is possible).
When a blade hits another, there should be no marks left on both. Curvature of the material, the presence of any kind of dents, and a curved blade axis are completely eliminated.
The importance of the handle
You can choose the optimal length of the ax based on the height of the master and the force of the blow. Strength, in turn, directly depends on the length, so when working with a large ax, it will be easier to chop logs of firewood.
Before making a choice, you should decide on the desired result:
- heavy version of the tool (total weight 1 kg - 1.4 kg, handle length from 55 to 65 cm);
- lightweight version (weight 0.8 kg-1 kg, with a length from 40 to 60 cm).
The quality of the wood from which the ax handle will be made is of great importance. Not every type of wood is suitable for manufacturing. Often, birch is used for these purposes (parts located near the roots or stem growths).
There are also handles made of oak, acacia, maple and other hardwoods. All selected workpieces require long-term drying.
After the wooden blank has dried well, the contours of the handle are drawn on it, according to a pre-made template. To avoid hand slipping during operation and to increase the convenience of the ax, it is necessary to provide a thickening at the end of the handle.
A knife, chisel, or electric jigsaw will help you cut out the outline.
After trying on the ax head and not finding any signs loose fit details, you can safely continue improving the ax handle. Glass will help you scrape the tool, and sandpaper will be useful for grinding.
Attaching the piercing attachment to the handle
Correctly following the nozzle instructions will lead to excellent results:
The eye of the cutting part must be adjusted to the upper part of the ax handle; the excess wood can be easily removed with a knife.
Make a mark on the ax handle where the piercing part will end. To do this, you need to place the handle lying down to avoid inaccuracies. Divide the resulting segment in half and make a corresponding mark.
Holding the ax handle while standing, you need to make a cut to the second mark. This is done with a hacksaw and used for a wedge.
Plan a wooden wedge similar to a previously purchased metal one. The width is equal to the size of the eye, the thickness of the product is from 5 to 10 mm, and the length is equal to the depth of the cut.
Having placed the board on the table, you need to place the piercing part on it, located upside down. Next, you should put this part on the handle and slowly start tapping it on the board.
From time to time you need to change the method of tapping from the piercing part to tapping with an axe.
As soon as the piercing part enters the eye, you need to place the ax vertically and insert a wooden wedge. A hacksaw for metal will help you cut off everything necessary materials, which as a result of the nozzle will be on top.
At the end, oil is applied to the handle and the product is thoroughly dried. The correct execution can be compared with the photo of the ax for the dacha posted below.
Blade sharpening
To avoid hassles that arise during work, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to sharpening the blade. Standard indicators of compliance with GOST:
- the sharpening angle for construction work is 20-30°;
- for carpentry 35°.
Compliance with the sharpening requirements is very important. The mismatch of the degree leads to the fact that when cutting with an ax, the blade gets stuck in the wood.
During initial sharpening, minor damage, nicks and gouges are eliminated. Afterwards, secondary sharpening is carried out. The end of the process is the grinding process, carried out with a fine-grained stone.
A tool made with your own hands according to instructions is always the best ax you can have in your dacha.
Photos of the best ax options for a summer residence
The taiga ax is special kind a tool that has many differences from ordinary carpentry tools that can be found in every owner’s home. Good tool It is very difficult to find and it is expensive, so we will make the best ax with our own hands from ordinary materials. Next, we will consider the main differences, features, characteristics of the product and step by step instructions its manufacture.
Characteristics of the taiga ax and what it should be like
Since the parameters of the ax and blade are very different from the usual sizes of “household” axes and will seem unusual to many, you first need to decide what problems can be solved with this miracle device:
- Tree cutting. Felling in a sawmill, sanitary felling or preparing firewood for a log house - this is exactly what this ax was made for.
- Rough work with logs (that's right, rough!). Suitable for removing branches, making grooves, removing thick bark and similar works.
- Ax for survival. A lightweight hunting tool, suitable for quickly creating bags and animal traps.
- Construction of huts, decking, wooden houses « instant cooking" A hut will not be built without an axe, but with its help you can do it 4 times faster than when working with a carpenter's ax blade.
- Working with firewood. If accuracy is a secondary concern, then this tool is perfect for the job.
If you would like to make a tool for precision work, then it would be better to consider forged axes with a straight, long blade. They are of little use when cutting down trees, but the accuracy is very high. In addition to the quality of the “cut,” there are many differences between a taiga ax and a regular one.
Shorter rounded blade . The ax is much lighter than a regular one, and small area work surface allows you to bury it much deeper into the wood, suitable for cutting wood across the grain. The tool is much easier to carry (the ax and head together weigh no more than 1400 grams).
Presence of a long beard
. Its main task is to protect the wooden part from breaking under strong impacts. Up to 60% of the impact force is absorbed. But it does not protect against impacts from logs - this is a misconception, because special shape the blades already perform this function. 
Special ax sharpening
. The rear edge of the blade is almost 2 times thinner than the front. This is done for the purpose of using the ax as a cleaver (if struck correctly). In a conventional tool, the edge has the same thickness for high precision works 
Special angle of inclination of the ax
. The head of the taiga ax forms a much smaller angle with the ax handle. This allows you to increase work efficiency, relieve hand fatigue and increase productivity when cutting trees. The blow becomes much stronger than that carpenter's ax, where the head and blade are placed at a 90 degree angle. All taiga axes self made they try to do it with an angle of 75-65 degrees - this is their main difference. 
They use ordinary sharpening wheels, since they can be very diverse. The main thing is to observe the difference in the thickness of the leading and trailing edges, since it is this that affects the productivity of the forester.
Do-it-yourself taiga ax - making the tool head
It won’t be possible to forge or cast a metal part at home, so let’s take the simplest route and in a few steps make a taiga ax out of an ordinary carpenter’s axe.
STEP 1: we take an old metal head from an ax, the weight of which is approximately 1400-1600 grams ( best option) and cut off the front protrusion of the blade flush with the butt. Protrusion of 5-8 degrees is allowed, but it's better to remove it if you need the right axe. 
STEP 2: we make the back of the blade round, we cut off the metal so that the entire touching surface is without corners. This can be done using an ordinary grinder or a medium-grit sanding wheel. 
STEP 3: cut out a semicircle in the inner part of the blade. It is necessary for a comfortable grip of the ax when it is necessary to trim something or for more precise work. With this form of an ax you can pull up small logs or hang the ax on a tree branch. In addition, you can reduce the weight of the head by 150-200 grams. 
STEP 4: cut off the upper corners of the butt. This will reduce weight and increase the maneuverability of the tool. This operation can be omitted if you are satisfied with the axe. 
Now all that remains is to choose how to sharpen the ax. It is very important to use a low-speed tool (a grinder cannot be used!). Sanding machine with large wheel and medium grit - perfect option. The sharpening must be double-sided and have a moderately sharp edge (a very sharp one will die on the first tree).
Making an ax handle with your own hands
You should not neglect the ax handle, since it is this that affects the comfort of work. The holder must be balanced, comfortable, well polished and with correct geometry so as not to injure the worker’s hands.
The first step is to choose the right wood for the ax handle. The first and simplest option is pine. It is very easy to sharpen and polish, but is unreliable due to its high fragility. You can use birch - the best option and very affordable wood that is quite easy to find. Maple and clear - ideal option, but making a handle from such wood is very difficult in some latitudes.
The size of the ax can be at your discretion; a handle with a length of 50 to 70 centimeters (universal size) for the cleaver is recommended. A hiking option is 40 centimeters, but cutting down trees and chopping firewood is quite difficult with it. If working with an ax only involves splitting logs, then the handle can be increased to 120 centimeters - excellent impact power and productivity, but you lose in comfort of use. Next, let's look at step-by-step instructions for making an ax handle.
STEP 1: select wooden blank. The log should be 20 centimeters longer, and its diameter should be at least 12 cm. Without knots, rotten areas, deformations and other defects that may be present on the tree. 
STEP 2: drying wood. First you need to clear all the bark and split the lump in the middle. It is advisable to withstand for a couple of months at +22-25 degrees and 15% humidity. You should not heat it or keep it damp - this will only worsen the properties of the wood after drying, and it may become deformed. 
STEP 3: we shape the ax handle. First, you can remove all excess with a hatchet or a large knife, and all “jewelry work” is done using a chisel and a small hammer. If this is your first hand-made pen and you don’t yet know how to make an ax, then the process will take several hours, you need to check the drawings. A more experienced person will be able to cut an ax handle by eye in 20-30 minutes. You should end up with a handle something like this: 
STEP 4: Now you need to attach the ax handle and secure it. You can use gauze and epoxy resin - a proven option. After 2-3 days the instrument is completely ready for use. To be sure, after mounting the ax you can hammer in a wedge - this will be more reliable. 
STEP 5: sanding and opening with varnish. The ax handle needs to be properly processed sandpaper and open with anti-corrosion mixtures so that the wood is not damaged over time. Now the instrument will also be beautiful! 
Now all you have to do is find out what do-it-yourself sharpening is. You need to sharpen the ax handle on a machine or do it manually and you can go test the tool. True connoisseurs can also make a leather case with their own hands. A piece of leather 30 by 30 centimeters, an awl and nylon threads is all you need. Now the tool will look respectable and you won’t be ashamed to give it as a gift!
Details on how to do it taiga ax You can take a look with your own hands here:
Hello everyone, today we will make one useful thing for the kitchen, like kitchen hatchet. Using this homemade product, you can chop or cut vegetables, meat, bones and other products. The author used an old one as material. saw blade made of thick steel. As a result, the hatchet became weighty, which makes it convenient. The product was also quenched and tempered, which made the steel durable. The handle covers are made of wood, which is impregnated with epoxy resin; as a result, such a handle will not be afraid of water. The only drawback The problem with the chosen steel is that it rusts, but if you use the ax often, over time the steel will become covered with a patina. You can make the patina yourself, using etching and so on. If the homemade product interests you, I suggest you study the project in more detail!
Materials and tools used
List of materials:
- old saw blade (made of good steel);
- wood for overlays;
- brass rods for pins;
- epoxy resin and dye;
- wood oil.
List of tools:
- ;
- drilling machine;
- ;
- files;
- sandpaper;
- oven, oil, oven (for heat treatment);
- marker;
- orbital sander.
The process of making a hatchet:
Step one. Ax profile
Before cutting an axe, it is advisable to check the steel for hardening. Otherwise, it can be very disappointing later when the product suddenly refuses to harden. To save steel, some modern saw blades are made from poor metal; such “steel” cannot be hardened.
The author uses an old thick saw blade as the starting material. First, draw the desired profile of the hatchet on it with a pencil, and then draw it with a marker. That's all, you can start cutting, the author works with a grinder. Our metal is quite thick, so cutting will take quite a long time. Concerning problem areas, which cannot be cut with a grinder, we cut them out in pieces.
As a result, we will get the primary profile of the ax with jagged edges after cutting with a grinder. We eliminate all these sins by grinding, here we need a belt sander. The workpiece will heat up quite strongly, cool it periodically in water. The author makes the final modification of the profile manually, using files.
Step two. Descents
We draw out the slopes on the axe; there will be quite a lot of grinding required here, so we again turn to the help of a belt sander. To make the bevels symmetrical, draw a centering line along the blade. When grinding, steel should not be overheated; under no circumstances should it turn blue.
We also drill all the necessary holes in the axe, since hardening is required next.
Step three. Heat treatment
Let's start hardening the axe; to do this, the steel needs to be heated to a temperature of just over 800°C. The ax should warm up evenly; it will glow in all places with the same red hue. Next, immerse the ax in oil and check whether the hardening was successful. If everything is done correctly and the ax is made of quality steel, it should not be scratched by a file.
Then be sure to temper, otherwise the steel will be very brittle and the blade may chip. For holidays we use the oven, the temperature is classically set at around 200°C. If the steel has been pre-ground, it will turn straw-colored after tempering.
Step four. Grinding
After hardening, the steel will be covered in soot and scale; the whole thing needs to be cleaned off. We arm ourselves with orbital grinder and polish the hatchet well until it shines.
Step five. Overlays
We make linings for the handle, here we need wood, a block or a thick board will do. As a decoration, we drill holes in the workpiece and fill it with epoxy resin and dye. The author used a silicone mold to pour the resin.
When the epoxy resin dries, we need to cut the workpiece lengthwise to create two halves, which will become the overlays. For cutting, the author uses a tape cutting saw, but you can do it with a hacksaw. We grind the workpieces well and you can cut out the primary profile.
Step six. Installation of overlays and completion
We cut brass rods that will be pins, and also mix epoxy glue. We glue the handle, not forgetting to thoroughly coat the pins with glue. We tighten everything well with clamps and let the glue dry.
Well, when the glue dries, we ask desired profile pens, the author carries out this work manually so as not to remove excess. First we work with files, and then we switch to sandpaper and grind the handle until it is perfectly smooth. Finally, coat the handle with oil or varnish, while epoxy resin its former transparency will return, and the pen will look like a masterpiece.
