Repair and construction works Not only are they difficult, but they also leave a lot of dust and debris, which most often you are too lazy to clean up, and ordinary home vacuum cleaners are simply not able to cope with the task. A cyclone for a vacuum cleaner will help, capable of sifting out shavings, sawdust and other debris without clogging the dust collector itself.
Operating principle
Many people know what construction debris is and how difficult it is to remove it, especially in industrial scale. There are special construction vacuum cleaners on the market that have high power, in comparison with household ones, but at the same time they have large dimensions and a considerable price. Therefore, masters of their craft create cyclone-type chip extractors with their own hands, thereby improving their household vacuum cleaners and making their work easier.
The filter is a structure of two compartments: external and internal. Under the influence of centrifugal force, all rubbish entering the dust collector, based on the cyclone principle, sorts into large and small particles.
Large ones settle in the outer chamber, and small ones - in the inner chamber. It is because of this principle of operation of the filter that it was called cyclonic.
DIY making
Before starting work, you need to remember that building such a simple device will not be difficult, so after mastering the principles, you can immediately make your own masterful modifications to the mechanism.
When making a cyclone with your own hands from scrap materials, you need:
To make a vacuum cleaner with your own hands, you need:
- In the lid of the container it is necessary to make a hole for the polypropylene elbow at 90 degrees and in the side of the container itself the same hole for the elbow at 30 degrees.
- A filter is placed inside the container, already connected to a polypropylene elbow.
- All holes should be sealed tightly with sealant.
The hose is tightly fixed with a polypropylene elbow and is directed clearly downwards, thereby setting a stable trajectory. Testing is carried out on hard litter.
Aquafilter from improvised means
If you have problems finding a store-bought aquafilter, you can easily make a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands. For this you just need plastic pipe, the dimensions of which are determined based on the size of the container (a sewer pipe of small diameter is suitable).
To make a filter yourself, you need to cut the pipe into pieces and tightly connect it into a T-shape so that air can easily pass between the chambers, and the side branches need to be plugged with breathable fabric material.
From below, at the base of the wide part, it is necessary to drill holes in a checkerboard pattern (for water intake). Next, you need to connect the cyclone filter to the water filter using a polypropylene elbow so that the water filter, while inside the container, lightly touches the water.
Water is added immediately before using the vacuum cleaner.
Dust bag
When making a vacuum cleaner bag with your own hands, any material is suitable, but it is important that it is dense. In order to make such a bag, you will need only three materials:
- Textolite (the size is selected individually for each vacuum cleaner).
- Any textile dense bag (many people use shoe bags).
- Clamp for debris dump part.
A hole is made in the PCB with a diameter the size of the dust collection valve outlet; the sizes are different for everyone, depending on the model of the vacuum cleaner. Next, the same hole is made in the bag and secured between the PCB and the bag.
A hole is made in the opposite part of the bag to discharge dust and debris, after which the bag is secured with a clamp.
Cyclone was created in 1986 Jameson Dyson and since then has gained its authority in the sales market and maintains its position to this day.
Not a single industrial sector can do without this invention, which has such qualities as speed and reliability.
From the very beginning of working in the workshop I encountered the problem of removing dust after work. The only available way to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a noticeable layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in hair and in the lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop made the problem worse. Some solutions have been to spray water before sweeping and use a respirator. However, these are only half measures. In winter, water freezes in an unheated room and you have to carry it with you; in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and also does not contribute to workplace hygiene. The respirator, firstly, does not block 100% of the dust, some of it is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on the environment. And not all nooks and crannies can be reached with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust.
In such a situation, the most effective solution it would be to vacuum the room.
However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of operation (especially if you work on milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, the suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust greatly exceeding the calculated values will greatly affect the service life of the vacuum cleaner. Something more specialized is needed here.
There are many ready-made solutions for dust removal in the workshop, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 Crisis, does not make them too affordable. Found it on thematic forums interesting solution- use a cyclone filter in conjunction with a regular household vacuum cleaner. All of the listed problems with household vacuum cleaners can be solved by removing dirt and dust from the air to the standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some people assemble cyclone filters from traffic cones, others from sewer pipes, others from plywood and whatever their imagination allows. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.
The principle of operation is simple - the air flow swirls in a cone-shaped filter housing and dust is removed from the air under the influence of centrifugal force. In this case, the dust falls through the lower hole into the container under the filter, and the purified air exits through the upper hole into the vacuum cleaner.
One of the common problems in the operation of cyclones is the so-called “carousel”. This is a situation where dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust collection container, but endlessly swirl inside the filter. This situation arises from too high a flow rate of air created by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. You need to reduce the speed a little and the “carousel” will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage pushes most of the “carousel” into the container and takes its place. And in the second model, plastic cyclones of this carousel practically do not exist. To eliminate air leaks, I coated the junction of the filter with the lid with hot glue.
I decided to get a larger dust collection container so that I would have to take out the trash less often. I bought a 127 liter barrel, apparently made in Samara - just the right size! I'm going to carry the barrel to the trash can like a grandmother carrying a string bag - on a different cart, so as not to strain herself.
Next is the choice of layout. Some install the dust collection unit permanently and lead channels to the machines. Others simply place a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them into Right place. I wanted to make a mobile unit on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one unit.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose a layout in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, occupying a minimum area. It was decided to make the body of the installation from metal. Frame from profile pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.
When installed vertically, there is a risk of tipping over. To reduce this probability, you need to make the base as heavy as possible. For this purpose, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.
The noticeable weight of the cart is compensated by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure was not stable enough, to pour lead shot or sand into the cavity of the frame. But this was not required.
In order to achieve verticality of the rods, I had to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vice came in handy. Thanks to such simple equipment it was possible to achieve precise installation corners
It is convenient to move the cart while holding the vertical bars, so I reinforced their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.
The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame using clamps.
At the top of the rods there is a platform for the vacuum cleaner. Next, holes will be drilled in the corners at the bottom and the wooden planks will be secured using self-tapping screws.
Here, in fact, is the entire frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I didn’t seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage efficiently. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Safety glasses and a welding mask quickly fog up, impairing visibility, and are bulky outerwear hinders movement. But the task is completed. Besides, there are only a couple of weeks left until spring.
I really didn't want to leave the frame like this. I wanted to paint it. But on all the cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at a temperature not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
I read thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in cold weather, as long as the paint is not on water based and there was no condensation on the parts. And if the paint has a hardener, don’t worry about it at all.
I found in the caches an old, slightly thickened can of Hammerite, which I used to paint a horizontal bar at the dacha back in the summer - . The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original solvent, Hammerite added a little regular degreaser to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began painting.
In the summer this paint dried in one hour. It’s difficult to say how long it was drying in the winter, but when I returned to the workshop in the evening next day the paint has dried. True, without the promised hammer effect. It's probably the degreaser that's to blame, not negative temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The coating looks and feels reliable. Perhaps it’s not for nothing that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.
The cyclone body is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But the attachment of the filter to the barrel lid is quite flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into plastic. In this case, significant lateral loads may occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the attachment of the filter to the barrel needs to be strengthened. People have different approaches to solving this problem. Basically, an additional stiffening frame for the filter is assembled. The designs are very varied, but the idea is something like this:
I approached this a little differently. I welded a holder for pipes of a suitable diameter onto one of the rods.
In this holder I clamp the hose, which bears all the twisting and jerking. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any loads. Now you can pull the unit directly behind you by the hose without fear of damaging anything.
I decided to secure the barrel with tightening straps. When I was choosing locks at a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. A five-meter tie-down belt with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and the bare frog-type lock lying next to it cost me 180 rubles. Russian production would have cost me 250 rubles. This is where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technology lies.
Experience has shown that this method of fastening has an important advantage. The fact is that on forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels like mine, when connecting a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during testing, I deliberately blocked the hole in the hose and, under the influence of vacuum, the barrel shrank. But thanks to the very tight grip of the clamps, not the entire barrel was compressed, but only in one place below the hoop a dent appeared. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent straightened itself out with a click.
At the top of the installation there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner
I purchased a bagless, almost two-kilowatt monster as a household vacuum cleaner. I was already thinking that this would be useful for me at home.
While buying a vacuum cleaner from an ad, I encountered some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. People sell used items without a guarantee, with a worn-out part of the resource, defects in appearance at prices lower than store prices by some 15-20 percent. And okay, these would be some popular items, but used vacuum cleaners! Judging by the period of posting of advertisements, this trade sometimes lasts for years. And as soon as you start haggling and name an adequate price, you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days I finally found an excellent option for 800 rubles. Famous brand, 1900 Watt, built-in cyclone filter (the second one in my system) and another fine filter.
To secure it, I couldn’t think of anything more elegant than pressing it with a tightening strap. In principle, it holds securely.
I had to get a little tricky with connecting the hoses. As a result, we have such a setup. And it works!
Usually when you read reviews from the first use of such things, people are choked with delight. I experienced something similar when I first turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone wears street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!
I have never seen this concrete floor, which is impossible to sweep due to the dust stuck in the pores, so clean. Persistent attempts to sweep it up only lead to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me in a couple of easy movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!
We managed to collect what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom into the barrel. When the device is operating, thanks to the transparency of the filter, you can observe streams of dust swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but there was a small amount of it and these were particularly light and volatile fractions.
I'm very pleased with the result. There will be no more dust storms in the workshop. You could say I'm moving into a new era.
Advantages of my design:
1. Occupies a minimum area, determined only by the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be carried and pulled by the hose without fear of tearing out the filter.
3. The barrel is protected from crushing when the inlet pipe is clogged.
After some time of using the installation, I still encountered the problem of a lack of rigidity of the barrel.
I purchased a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but it sucks like a beast - it sucks up stones, nuts, screws, tears off plaster and tears bricks out of masonry))
This vacuum cleaner collapsed a blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! Tightly wrapping the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have my camera with me, it's a shame. But it looks something like this:
On thematic forums they warn about this possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty, he straightened the barrel and sent it, fairly dented, to the dacha to store water. She is not capable of more.
There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy a metal barrel instead of a plastic one. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my installation - diameter 480, height 800. A superficial search on the Internet did not yield any results.
2. Assemble the box yourself the right size from 15 mm plywood. This is more real.
The box was assembled using self-tapping screws. The joints were sealed using double sided tape on a foam basis.
The cart had to be altered a little - the rear clamp had to be modified to fit a square tank.
The new tank, in addition to strength and increased volume due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows you to install a garbage bag in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it much cleaner (I tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). Old barrel didn't allow this.
The lid was sealed with foam insulation for windows
The lid is held in place by four frog locks. They create the necessary tension to seal the cover on the foam gasket. A little higher I wrote about pricing policy on these frog castles. But I had to fork out more.
It worked out well. Cute, functional, reliable. How I love.
Wood has always been considered environmentally friendly and safe material. Fine wood dust generated during processing wooden blank, is not as harmless as it might seem. Inhaling it does not at all contribute to saturating the body with useful microelements. Accumulating in the lungs and upper respiratory tract (and wood dust is not processed by the body), it slowly but effectively destroys the respiratory system. Large chips constantly accumulate near machines and working tools. It is better to remove it immediately, without waiting for insurmountable blockages to appear in the carpentry space.
In order to maintain the required level of cleanliness in your home carpentry, you can buy an expensive exhaust system consisting of powerful fan, cyclone, chip catchers, chip containers and auxiliary elements. But the users of our portal are not those who are used to buying something that they can do with their own hands. Using their experience, anyone can build an exhaust system with the power to meet the needs of a small home workshop.
Vacuum cleaner for collecting sawdust
Chip extraction using a conventional household vacuum cleaner is the most a budget option of all existing solutions. And if you manage to use your old cleaning assistant, who, out of pity, has not yet been thrown into the trash, it means that your inherent frugality has once again served you well.
ADKXXI User FORUMHOUSE
My vacuum cleaner is over fifty years old (brand: “Uralets”). It copes well with the role of a chip sucker. He is only as heavy as my sins, but he can not only suck, but also blow. Sometimes I take advantage of this opportunity.
By itself, a household vacuum cleaner, installed in a place of honor in the workshop as a chip extractor, will be useless. And the main reason for this is that the volume of the bag (container) for collecting dust is too small. That is why there must be an additional unit between the vacuum cleaner and the machine exhaust system, consisting of a cyclone and a volumetric tank for collecting sawdust.
Osya User FORUMHOUSE
Easiest installation–vacuum cleaner and cyclone. Moreover, the vacuum cleaner can be used at home. Instead of a cyclone (cylindrical cone), a separating cap can be used.
DIY sawdust vacuum cleaner
The design of the chip suction device we are considering is extremely simple.
The device consists of two main modules: a cyclone (item 1) and a container for chips (item 2). The principle of its operation is as follows: using a vacuum cleaner, a vacuum is created in the cyclone chamber. Due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the device, sawdust, along with air and dust, enters the internal cavity of the cyclone. Here, under the influence of inertia and gravity forces, mechanical suspensions are separated from the air flow and fall into the lower container.
Let's look at the design of the device in more detail.
Cyclone
The cyclone can be made in the form of a lid that is installed on top of the storage tank, or you can simply combine these two modules. First, let's consider the second option - a cyclone made in the body of a container for chips.
First of all, we should purchase a tank with a suitable volume.
ForceUser FORUMHOUSE user,
Moscow.
Capacity – 65 l. I took it on the principle that I needed volume and convenience when carrying a filled container. This barrel has handles, which is very convenient for cleaning it.
Here is the list additional elements and materials that we will need to assemble the device:
- Screws, washers and nuts - for fastening the inlet pipe;
- Line segment sewer pipe with cuffs;
- Transition coupling (from the sewer pipe to the suction pipe of the vacuum cleaner);
- Gun with assembly glue.
Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner from a barrel: assembly sequence
First of all, a hole is made in the side of the tank for the inlet pipe, which will be located tangentially to the body. The picture shows a view from outside reservoir.
It is advisable to install the pipe in the upper part of the plastic barrel. This will allow you to achieve the maximum degree of cleaning.
From the inside, the inlet pipe looks like this.
The gaps between the pipe and the walls of the tank should be filled with mounting sealant.
At the next stage, we make a hole in the lid, insert the adapter coupling there and carefully seal all the cracks around the pipe. Ultimately, the design of the chip ejector will look like this.
The vacuum cleaner is connected to the upper outlet of the device, and the pipe that removes chips from the machine is threaded into the side pipe.
As you can see, the presented design is not equipped with additional filters, which does not greatly affect the quality of air purification.
day_61 User FORUMHOUSE
I made a chip pump based on the theme. The basis is a 400 W "Rocket" vacuum cleaner and a 100 liter barrel. After assembly of the unit, tests were successfully carried out. Everything works as it should: sawdust is in the barrel, the vacuum cleaner bag is empty. So far, the dust collector is connected only to the router.
Be that as it may, the cyclone still cannot retain a certain percentage of wood dust. And in order to maximize the degree of cleaning, some users of our portal are thinking about the need to install an additional fine filter. Yes, a filter is needed, but not every filter element will be appropriate.
Osya User FORUMHOUSE
I think that installing a fine filter after the cyclone is not entirely correct. Or rather, you need to install it, but you will be tired of cleaning it (you will have to very often). There the filter fabric will just roll around (like a bag in a vacuum cleaner). In my Corvette, the top bag catches the bulk of the fine dust. I see this when I remove the bottom bag to remove sawdust.
A fabric filter can be created by attaching a frame to the top cover of the cyclone and covering it with dense material (can be tarpaulin).
The main task of the cyclone is to remove sawdust and dust from working area(from a machine, etc.). Therefore, the quality of cleaning the air flow from fine suspended matter plays a secondary role in our case. And, taking into account that a standard dust collector installed in a vacuum cleaner will certainly retain the remaining debris (not filtered by the cyclone), we will achieve the required degree of cleaning.
Cyclone cover
As we have already said, the cyclone can be made in the form of a lid that will be placed on the storage tank. Working example A similar device is shown in the photo.
PointLogs User FORUMHOUSE
The design should be clear from the photographs. Plastic soldered regular soldering iron using fine steel mesh. The cyclone is quite effective: when filling a 40-liter barrel, no more than a glass of garbage has accumulated in the vacuum cleaner bag.
Despite the fact that this cyclone is part of a homemade construction vacuum cleaner, it can be successfully integrated into the design of a carpentry chip ejector.
Sawdust pipeline
It is better to purchase hoses connected to the chip ejector from a vacuum cleaner. A plastic pipeline with smooth inner walls can be laid along the wall. It will connect the machine to the suction pipe of the cyclone.
A certain danger is posed by static electricity, which is formed during the movement of sawdust through a plastic pipe: sawdust sticking to the walls of the pipeline, ignition of wood dust, etc. If you want to neutralize this phenomenon, it is better to do this during the construction of the sawdust pipeline.
Not all owners of home workshops pay attention to the phenomenon of static electricity inside the sawdust pipe. But if you design the chip ejector in accordance with the rules fire safety, then a corrugated material with a built-in metal conductor should be used as a sawdust pipe. Connecting such a system to a grounding loop will help avoid problems during operation.
alex_k11 User FORUMHOUSE
Plastic pipes must be grounded. Hoses should be taken with a wire, otherwise static will accumulate very strongly.
But what solution to combat static electricity in plastic pipes is offered by one of FORUMHOUSE users: Wrap a plastic pipe with foil and connect it to the ground loop.
Exhaust devices
The design of devices that remove chips directly from the working parts of carpentry equipment depends on the characteristics of the machines themselves. Therefore, products made of plastic, plywood and other suitable materials can be used as exhaust elements.
To solve this problem, the tank body can be equipped with metal frame, or insert several metal hoops of suitable diameter inside (as suggested by the user alex_k11). The design will be more bulky, but absolutely reliable.
Chip ejector for several machines
A system based on a household vacuum cleaner has low productivity. Therefore, it can only serve one machine at a time. In other words, if there are several machines, the suction pipe will have to be connected to them alternately. It is also possible to install the chip ejector centrally. But to ensure that the suction power does not drop, idle machines should be disconnected from common system using gates (dampers).
A home vacuum cleaner is so commonplace in the household that no one thinks about the principle of its operation. Since the invention of this cleaning assistant, it has been used only possible way separating dust from clean air– filter.
Over the years, the filter element has been improved, from a banal bag made of thick tarpaulin, it has turned into high-tech membranes that retain the smallest particles of debris. However, it was not possible to get rid of the main drawback.
Filter makers are constantly looking for a compromise between cell density and air throughput. In addition, the dirtier the membrane, the worse the air flow through it.
30 years ago, physicist James Dyson made a breakthrough in dust collection technology.
He invented a compact dust separator that works on the principle of centrifugal force. I must say that this idea was not new. Industrial sawmills have been using centrifugal cyclone-type scorch and chip storage for quite a long time.
But no one thought of applying this physical phenomenon in everyday life. In 1986 he registered a patent for the first vacuum cleaner cyclone type, with the name G-Force.
In general, there are three ways to separate dust from clean air:
- Filter membrane. The most widespread and cheap way remove dust. Used in most modern vacuum cleaners;
- Water filter. Air with debris passes through a container of water (like in a hookah), all particles remain in a liquid medium, and a perfectly clean air flow comes out. Such devices have gained popularity, but their use has not become widespread due to their high cost.
- Centrifugal dry cleaning filter of the “cyclone” type. It is a compromise in cost and quality of cleaning compared to a membrane and water filter. Let's look at this model in more detail.
Operating principle of a cyclone
The illustration shows the processes occurring in the chamber of a cyclone-type filter.
Contaminated air enters the cylindrical filter housing (2) through the pipe (1). The pipe is located tangentially to the walls of the housing, due to which the air flow (3) twists into a spiral along the walls of the cylinder.
Under the influence of centrifugal force, dust particles (4) are pressed against the inner walls of the housing, and under the influence of gravity they settle into the dust collector (5). Air with the smallest particles of debris (which are not affected by centrifugal force) enters the chamber (6) with a conventional membrane filter. After final cleaning they exit into the receiving fan (7).
The membrane filter is minimally contaminated and only needs to be cleaned occasionally after cleaning. All dirt is simply poured out of the reservoir, and the vacuum cleaner is ready for use again.
Vacuum cleaners with such a filter are cheaper than water ones, but still more expensive compared to membrane ones. Therefore, many craftsmen make a “cyclone” type filter with their own hands and connect it to the inlet of a regular vacuum cleaner.
In the process of various construction and repair work indoors, there is often a need to remove construction waste. It is not recommended to use a regular vacuum cleaner for this purpose, since there is a high probability of failure of the filter, or even the entire vacuum cleaner. For this purpose, a construction vacuum cleaner is used, which is designed specifically for such work.
Let's look at what a construction (industrial) vacuum cleaner is and its main differences from a household one.
The power of a construction vacuum cleaner is several times greater than that of a household vacuum cleaner and can reach 4 kW. Thanks to this, you can easily remove construction debris, both small and large. With its help, you can easily remove cement dust, fragments of plaster, various fragments and sand, etc. The body of an industrial vacuum cleaner is mainly made of metal.
The vacuum cleaner has a reinforced filtration system. The motor of such a vacuum cleaner can work for a long time and withstand heavy loads, thanks to a special cooling system. The dust collector capacity of a construction vacuum cleaner is much larger than a conventional vacuum cleaner. All construction vacuum cleaners have an outlet for connecting power tools.
Such a vacuum cleaner costs more than a regular one, so many craftsmen try to make a construction vacuum cleaner with their own hands by remaking a household vacuum cleaner, and often encounter certain difficulties.
This article contains the most successful technical solutions How to convert a household vacuum cleaner into a construction vacuum cleaner. If you have a medium-power vacuum cleaner at home, then if you wish, you can turn it into a construction vacuum cleaner. Or you can buy an inexpensive vacuum cleaner and, by improving it, turn it into an industrial one. To do this, you don’t have to remake the vacuum cleaner itself, you just need to make external filter DIY cyclone. Next, we will consider two main options for manufacturing such a filter with and without a cone.
A description of homemade cyclone filters is given in this article mainly to introduce you to general idea and the operating principle of such devices. This means that, having familiarized yourself with the design, you are not obliged to repeat it completely, but can make various changes to it, or using the basic idea, make a cyclone filter of a completely new design.
Operating principle of the cyclone filter
The principle of operation of this filter is based on the passage of contaminated air through an external device, in which large particles settle in its housing, then the air is cleaned of fine dust, passing through the oil filter, and enters the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. Thus, the vacuum cleaner itself receives air that has already been purified from dust and debris.
Cyclone filter option 1 (without cone)
To make a cyclone filter with your own hands, you will need the following parts and materials:
- Oil filter. It filters fine dust.
- Bucket with a tight-fitting lid 20 l.
- Polypropylene elbows, intended for water supply systems, and having an angle of 90 and 45 degrees and a diameter of 40 mm - 1 piece.
- Plumbing pipe, plastic – 1 meter, diameter 40 mm.
- Piece corrugated pipe 2 meters long and 40 mm in diameter. You will need it to log into the device.
Manufacturing process
1. In the lid of the bucket, in the center, you need to cut a hole into which a 90-degree angle is inserted; a vacuum cleaner will be connected to it.
2. Seal the cracks with sealant.
3. Cut a hole in the side wall of the bucket and insert a 45 degree corner.
4. A piece of pipe is used to connect the corrugation to the elbow.
5. For more long service filter, you can pull a piece of nylon tights over it.
6. The filter outlet must be connected to the elbow in the bucket lid.
It may not be possible to fit the filter onto the outlet pipe. For this purpose, you need to come up with some kind of adapter. A piece of corrugation for a plumbing siphon or a rubber hose of a certain diameter may be suitable. It is advisable to coat all connections with sealant. An oil filter can be purchased at a store that sells auto parts.
It must be borne in mind that when closing the inlet, the bucket may crack. Therefore, it is necessary to strengthen the walls of the bucket in some way, or provide something like a valve. The main thing is not to rush in this matter, measure all the connections, and then you will succeed.
Only one of the options is described above. There are many similar designs. Instead of a bucket they use plastic barrels, there are designs where the role of a bucket is played by fan pipe. Many craftsmen make their own containers from tin or thin iron.
Some inventors design a cyclone filter using a cone. This design often uses a traffic cone.
Option 2 (using a traffic cone)
The following parts and materials will be required:
- Road cone (can be purchased at a car store).
- Two meter rods 8 mm.
- Washers, nuts and lock washers 8 mm.
- Corrugated tubes with a diameter of 32 mm and a length of about 2 meters - two pieces.
Manufacturing process
- Cut off the stand at the very base of the cone. The cone is inserted into the bucket from above upside down. A tube is inserted inside the bucket. The space between the cone and the tube should be filled with construction foam.
- Cut a square out of 20 mm thick plywood so that the base of the cone fits into it and still has some space left. 4 holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the corners of the square. A hole is cut in the center for the tube; a corrugated hose will be placed on it, connecting the device to the vacuum cleaner.
- The lid for the bucket is cut out of multi-layer plywood and should fit tightly to the bucket. Glue a rubber gasket along its edges.
- A hole is sawed in the lid with a diameter for the narrow end of the cone.
- After the cone is inserted into the plywood cover, the joint is covered with foam. The cone should be placed upside down on the bucket, and is attached using four threaded rods, 50 cm long and 8 mm in diameter, they hold the plywood square with the cone screwed to it.
- Not far from the base of the cone, in its wide part, a hole is drilled for a tube to connect to a corrugated hose. Various construction waste will be sucked through it.
A fine filter is not used in this version of the cyclone, so fine dust can enter the vacuum cleaner turbine. When constructing such devices, vacuum cleaners with a bag are mainly used. Therefore, fine dust, if it gets inside, settles in the bag.
Homemade options construction vacuum cleaners with an additional filter, the cyclone allows craftsmen to test various options, without fear of ruining the vacuum cleaner itself, since most of the debris is retained by the filter.
When making a cyclone filter with your own hands, do not be afraid to experiment, and in the end you will definitely achieve the desired result.
