If you go into a store and look at the cost of a bench vise with a jaw width of 120mm or more, it becomes kind of sad...
Having looked at the metal that I have available at the dacha, I decided to spend a day on self-production bench vice.
The material I looked for for making a vice:
Iron sheet for the base of a vice, 4mm thick
- profile square pipe 50mm with wall thickness 4mm
- corner 60mm with wall thickness 5mm
- corner 75mm with wall thickness 8mm
- strip 10mm thick
- threaded rod 20mm
- long nut 20mm
The plate for the base of the vice was 200x160mm in size.
I decided to cut the same one and drill evenly holes with a diameter of 8mm in one of the plates spot welding I fastened these two plates together.
Cleaned up the welding areas:
I drew a central line in the center of the plate and along the edges of it I also drew a pair of lines 20mm wide - the thickness of the pin.
I installed the long nut into which the stud will be screwed onto a spacer - a piece of 10mm thick strip to which I welded this nut.
I installed the nut on the spacer in the center of the drawn line and screwed the pin into it and aligned it in the center.
After that, I welded the pad with the nut to the base plate and cleaned it.
A 60mm corner with a wall thickness of 5mm and a length of 200mm will be used as sidewalls.
I installed them to see what it would look like:
Here general form parts for bench vice:
In a 50x50mm profile pipe, I used a grinder to make a longitudinal groove slightly wider than the welded stand with a nut.
At the edge of this pipe I left an unsawed part equal to the width of the future jaws.
The corners surrounding the profile pipe were tacked to the base sheet.
Between these corners I placed a plate 50mm wide and 10mm thick. In order for the profile pipe to move normally, I made a spacer between this plate on top and the profile pipe itself.
As a spacer I used a couple of hacksaw blades for metal.
After that, I welded the plate along its entire length. The result was a kind of box:
Since the gap between the plate and the corners turned out to be quite large, after welding the plate on top, I cut off the tacks and welded the same plate from the inside.
Since the profile pipe has semicircular edges, then the welding seam from the inside goes profile pipe doesn't interfere.
After that, the resulting box was cleaned:
As a base for the jaws of the vice, I used a thicker corner of 75mm and a wall thickness of 8mm. The width of future sponges will be 150mm.
Having installed the corners at the future fastening points, I cut them slightly at a bevel.
A piece of strip 10mm thick will be used as the sponges themselves.
The sponges will have a size of: 150x50x10mm.
Having attached these future jaws to my corners, I secured them with dog-shaped pliers and drilled 4.2mm holes through them.
Then I cut 5mm threads in the corners, and drilled holes in the jaws with a 5.1mm drill and made a countersink for countersunk.
I screwed bolts into the cut threads and screwed two nuts on the back side, which I then scalded by welding. The result was some kind of elongated 5mm thread.
I made holes for attaching the jaws to the corners in the center of the jaws - 25mm from the vertical line and 30mm from the edges.
At the end of the profile pipe, where in the future the knob will be attached to the stud, I initially planned to weld a square pad.
Then I decided to weld a piece of corner along the edges of the pipe, in which I would then cut a thread and not weld this area, but fasten it with screws.
This will allow me to disassemble the vice later if necessary.
Having placed the corner with the future jaws on this part, I made bevels of the corner relative to the protruding welded corners.
In the future, to strengthen the sponges with inside The corners will be welded with braces and the whole thing will be welded with a 4mm thick plate.
To strengthen the upper part of the vice, where there is room for the anvil, I put another plate 8mm thick (like the corner of the jaws) and a width equal to the total width of the box.
Thus, if in the future you have to use the anvil according to direct purpose, then the entire load will be placed on the vertical ribs of the side corners.
Having welded the reinforcing braces, I covered the corners of the jaws with a 4mm thick plate and cleaned everything with a grinder and then with a 40-grit emery wheel.
Yes, for welding...
I cooked with the Forsazh-161 apparatus
Electrode - MR-3S 3mm
Welding current is about 110A.
When scalding the corners with a 4mm plate, I used the same electrodes, only at a current of about 80A.
I cut the slot in the profile pipe in place so that this cut does not interfere with the movement of the pipe relative to the welded area with the nut.
So that nothing sticks.
If to execute certain works You need a compact vice; you don’t have to buy them in a store - you can easily make them yourself from scrap materials. For better and more reliable fixation of parts, pieces of a flat file or hardened steel plates with notches can be welded onto the jaws of the vice.
To make a simple homemade vice you will need following materials: a steel square with sides of 40 mm and a length of 12–15 cm, two pieces of plate, a pin of suitable length, one bearing, as well as a hexagon, strip and nut. Many of necessary materials can be found in every garage or home workshop, so the cost of homemade products is minimal.
Making a homemade vice: progress of work
We apply a piece of strip to the steel square, mark it, and then make a small recess - a “seat” for it. In the strip itself you need to drill two holes for fastening to the table. Then in one of the plates we make a U-shaped cutout according to the thickness of the steel square. We weld the bearing to the same plate in the center.
We grind one end of the stud slightly into a cone, and weld a hexagon to the other. On one side of the square it is necessary to weld a nut into which we screw a pin, and insert its truncated end into the bearing. We weld the second plate to the free edge of the steel square. We clean all welding areas well with a grinder.
Let's sum it up
This is how you can easily make a compact homemade vice from scrap materials that will be useful in the garage and home workshop. Step by step process Watch the production in the video on our website.
One of the main tools in any workshop is a vice. At first glance, this is a fairly simple tool, but in fact, a fairly large number of operations can be performed using a vice. There are a huge number of varieties: carpentry, metalwork, chair, cross. It happens that the vice may become unusable. In this case, you can make a vice yourself.
In any carpentry workshop you can see a vice. It is often necessary to clamp parts in order to turn them or simply glue them together. A homemade vice, which you can make yourself, can handle these tasks, and the price of such a product will be quite low. Often the jaws of a vice are made of soft wood to avoid damage to the part being clamped.
For convenience, the vice can be screwed to the workbench. In the fixed part, it is necessary to secure a furniture nut into which a pin will be screwed, which, in turn, will move the movable mechanism. The washer must be firmly attached to the movable jaw, and the knob itself must be attached to the handle. As for the tips for the sponges, they can be made from pieces of plywood.
If you need to assemble a carpenter's vice with your own hands, then this option is considered optimal.
First, you need to mark all the parts, then cut out three identical bars (the longer the length of the bar, the more dimensionally you can clamp the product). The bed can be made from a thick board or from 3 pieces of plywood. Drill two vertical holes in two fixed bars. Drill a hole in one of the bars for a pin, which will act as a clamping mechanism. The next step is to install the nut into the beam.
At the end of the stud you need to weld a small rectangular patch and drill 4 holes in it for fastening. After this, screw the pin into the fixed jaw and screw its end to the movable jaw, and the structure itself to the workbench.
These vices are also called Moxon vices or bench vices; they cope quite successfully with clamping large boards, plywood, and various panels. The advantage of this type is that they do not take up small area in the workshop, and they are made of wood.
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You need to select the dimensions yourself; you can make a carpenter's vice for a workbench with your own hands using a minimum of tools and material.
The design looks like this:
For production you will need two studs, four nuts, three boards. After the boards are prepared and cut to size, it is necessary to drill two holes in the fixed and moving parts. Then in the stationary part in drilled holes insert the nuts, having previously lubricated them with glue on both sides. A small nuance: The holes in the fixed part should be slightly smaller in diameter than the nuts themselves to prevent the nut from twisting in the hole. First, the studs need to be welded on the knob for convenience or a wooden handle must be made. The bed for the fixed part can be made in the form of a step. Screw the finished structure to the workbench with self-tapping screws or bolts.
If you often work with metal, then for these tasks you need a strong metal vice that you can make yourself.
In order to assemble a bench vise with your own hands, you need the following tools:
- Welding machine.
- Electric drill.
- Grinder with a grinding wheel.
- Square to maintain the required angles.
- Drills of various diameters.
In addition to the tool, you will need:
- Steel channel with a diameter of 6 mm.
- Sheet metal 5-6 mm thick, more possible.
- Corner 70 by 50.
- Twenty bolts and nuts.
If there is a pin with a diameter of 16 mm, then you can use it as a clamping screw that will move the moving part. The two nuts into which the screw will be screwed are quite difficult to make yourself, and besides, the remaining parts are quite non-standard and quite difficult to find, so it makes sense to turn to a turner.
Drill stand: creation drilling machine with your own hands
Then weld the nut to the channel, this must be done coaxially.
The ends of the channel must be closed using a piece sheet metal and cut a hole in the strip for the screw.
Use a grinder to cut out two corners and a plate. Place the corners against the channel on both sides and cover the top with a piece of sheet metal. The result will be a kind of U-shaped design.
The frame can be cut out of 7-10 mm metal and four holes can be drilled on each side, as well as 6 holes in the U-shape.
Weld one nut to the frame, and weld two metal stoppers on the sides of the nut.
From steel you need to cut blanks for two jaws, movable and fixed. A stationary workpiece can be welded immediately.
Then weld the second workpiece onto the moving part. On the sponges themselves you need to make some kind of heels from thick metal. They can be welded or bolted.
If desired, you can reinforce the jaws on both sides with corner gussets made of thick metal.
These vices are no worse than purchased ones, and the material costs required are minimal. Using this principle, you can make another version of yews from a hand jack. The finished product can be painted to give it an aesthetic appearance.
Anyone who uses a drilling machine probably knows how difficult it is to drill and at the same time hold a workpiece, which tends to spin or fly off and injure the master. As a rule, in old machines there is no vice on the bed, which brings certain inconvenience. For more comfortable work, you can purchase a tool, or you can make a vice for a drilling machine with your own hands.
For machine vices you will need:
- Corner 30 by 30.
- Threaded stud.
- Nuts for the stud.
- Small bearing.
- If desired, the product can be painted.
The drawing looks like this:
First you need to saw off two corners. The size is selected depending on the dimensions of the drilling machine bed. Using a grinder, cut out two jaws from thick metal and make markings. Drill holes in them to attach the jaws to the base.
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Take a piece of angle iron and drill a hole for the pin. You can immediately weld the bearing, as shown in the figure.
Opposite the mount with the bearing, weld a similar corner and drill a hole for the shaft.
Opposite the mount where the bearing is located, three nuts must be welded.
To make it convenient to twist the stud, you can weld a nut to its beginning and insert a knob into it. Homemade vice for a drilling machine, the design and quality are in no way inferior to factory ones and are several times cheaper.
Most anglers prefer homemade fly tying vices to commercial ones. The device itself has quite simple design, which allows them to be manufactured in short time and without special tools at home. The most difficult step in making a vice is the jaws themselves. They are made from steel bars rectangular shape. Two holes are drilled in the finished jaws for fastening to the yew and one for the adjusting screw. The holes need to be threaded (M6) with a tap.
The yew support can be made from a T-shaped or L-shaped steel rod. Sponges are welded to the end of one of the workpieces. The rod must be welded to the support, and if you need to make the support adjustable, then a piece of edged pipe is welded to the workpiece, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the workpiece. It is recommended to make the length of the support about 20-50 cm high for more comfortable work.
If the vice has become unusable and there is no way to repair it, then you should not immediately buy new ones, but try to make it yourself. Such a tool will serve for quite a long time and will cost several times less.
Do-it-yourself bench vise at home
Many plumbing jobs require a special vice. Their purpose is to rigidly fix the workpiece being processed. There are quite a lot of them on sale various options executions of metalworking machines, all of them have a rather high cost in common. For a private workshop, you can make a bench vice with your own hands. The created structure will cost much less and is ideal for installation in a private workshop.
Features of the vice
Almost any master who spends a lot of time in his own workshop or garage knows that it is almost impossible to do without the device in question. At machining Great force is applied to the workpiece. Create DIY locksmith tools decide to achieve the following goals:
You can make a strong vice with your own hands at home from a profile pipe. The resulting structure will have compact dimensions and can be rigidly attached to the base. Such a vice is used to work with various workpieces, since the device can exert different pressure on the jaws.
Step-by-step instruction
The work will require relatively a small amount of tools. The entire manufacturing process can be divided into several main stages:
After the structure has been assembled, it is painted. As a rule, the corner used is made using ordinary steel, which becomes corroded during long-term use. The created vice can be attached to the base using bolts.
Universal design for household use
Homemade vices for a drilling machine or workbench do not require complex calculations. As a rule, a steel pipe is used as a base in most cases.
When considering how to make a homemade vice, you should pay attention to the design features:
Such a design can withstand significant impact and last for a long period.
Doing the work yourself
To work with metal you will need a grinder and a welding machine. Machine milling vices of this type are manufactured as follows:
The created vice design is characterized by high reliability and long service life. At the same time, it is easy to repair and inexpensive. That is why it is quite popular among home craftsmen.
Making carpentry vices
For processing wooden blanks Carpenter's vice required. They are used both in the manufacture of new parts and in the repair of existing ones. Working with wood using a bench vice is inconvenient. That is why many people decide to also make carpentry, which have a number of their own characteristics.
The simplest design is represented by a combination of the following elements:
Manufacturing features include the following:
In a similar way, you can make very practical carpentry vices. They are inexpensive and can be used for most carpentry work.
Homemade structures are in no way inferior to industrial ones. They can also be designed to withstand heavy loads. WITH The produced vices can have a wide variety of qualities, since they are created by the master depending on the needs.
Very difficult to hold metal blank hands and at the same time process it, in this case we recommend making DIY machine vise. If you need to rigidly fix a part at an angle, you won’t envy the master at all. For such work, a vice is simply necessary. But most manufacturers do not include accessories, which automatically increases the cost of the equipment. Factory milling vices are relatively inexpensive and, nevertheless, some craftsmen manage to make homemade analogues with their own hands.
Corrugations on jaws reduce the supporting surface area and increase the holding force therefore, it is advisable to have them on a bench vice. But on drilling machines, the force is applied differently, so you can do without corrugations. But if you really want, you can make longitudinal corrugations (along the long side) and a couple of transverse ones to hold round parts. The corrugations are made using an angle grinder and a guide pressed with clamps to the jaws. Good jaws for drilling vices can be made from a coarse file. Pieces of file can be glued to the vice on epoxy resin with the addition of metal dust (aluminum powder). An important addition to the drill vise jaws is a step
Do-it-yourself machine vice video
Making a rotary vice with your own hands
To do it yourself rotary vice, skills in metalworking, welding and related equipment are required. Homemade device made by hand from stainless steel.
- A clamp is made that will hold a homemade vice on the workbench.
- We cut out two steel plates with our own hands, in which we drill 3 holes for the guides. We weld the carriage and assemble the structure: insert a threaded pin into the middle hole, and smooth pins along the edges - guides for the pressure jaw. We attach a handle to the free end of the screw pin for ease of control.
- We screw the fixed jaw onto the bolts with our own hands, we recess the bolt heads into the tangent surface, we place the nuts with outside. To make a holder for the pressure jaw, we use welding. The holder is a corner with three triangular stiffeners. The horizontal part of the holder is bolted to the carriage. We also fix the sponge itself with bolts. This will allow you to change the jaws in the future, for example, you can make additional ones from a corner for fixing pipes.
- We make a hinge with our own hands to change the position of the workpiece. To do this again you will have to use welding machine. The position is secured using a threaded pin and a pair of nuts.
If necessary, it is not difficult to make a suitable vice with your own hands. It’s not just that the tools offered by manufacturers are expensive, bulky and heavy: they often do not meet the needs home handyman. This is especially true when you need high accuracy parts, strict parallelism or perpendicularity of their surfaces, the ability to easily move the vice from one place to another, etc.
Figure 1. Mechanic's vice V. Legostaev.
It is very difficult, and often simply impossible, to accurately drill holes and process workpieces efficiently, holding them with your hands or pliers. Need a bench vise. Convenient work with wooden products; wood carving is impossible without a carpenter's vice. Both of them do not have to be bought in a store - if you have the appropriate skills, they are not difficult to make yourself.
Homemade bench vise
This simple, lightweight, but at the same time very effective design was developed by the famous home craftsman V. Legostaev. The operation of the proposed model is based on the fact that water and gas pipes are produced in such a way that a sample of a given diameter fits tightly into a product of the next standard size.
In Fig. 1 shows its device. Individual elements the structures are indicated there by the following numbers:
- The inner (moving) part of the vice is a section of water pipe.
- The outer (fixed) part of the vice is a piece of pipe of the following standard size.
- Running nut (M16).
- Lead screw (M16).
- Collar.
- Front support.
- Rear support.
- Pressing jaws – pipe sections rectangular section.
- Fixing nut (M16).
A flange with a nut having an M16 thread (3) is welded to the end of the pipe section (2), which is the outer, stationary part of the vice. Same flange with nut bigger size(M18) is welded to the end of a pipe section (1), which is the inner (moving) part of the vice. This nut is on inner surface The flange serves as a kind of bearing for the stud (4) with M16 thread.
Metal vice design elements.
A locking nut (9) is screwed onto the left end of the threaded rod and fixed in this position by welding. Washers are installed between these nuts and the flange to reduce friction. The right, long end of the stud screws into the nut of the large (outer) pipe. A thick washer or nut of suitable size is welded to the left end of the stud, into the hole of which a knob (5) is inserted. With it, you can conveniently rotate the axis to control the vice. As a result, the main working unit of the proposed design will be obtained.
Jaws (8), made from sections of rectangular pipes, are attached to the inner and outer pipes by welding. To obtain a completed design on outer pipe supports are attached (6 and 7). They can be made from metal corner And rectangular pipes. Homemade vice is ready.
In order to inner tube did not rotate, you can make a longitudinal slot in the outer one and screw it into inner part fixing screw. This will not be necessary if you use sections of two similar-sized pipes of square or rectangular cross-section as the outer and inner parts of the main assembly.
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Homemade carpentry vice
In a home workshop for a workbench on which you can process wooden crafts, there is always a place. Doing this by laying the workpieces on a workbench or securing them with clamps is not always convenient, and sometimes even impossible. This is especially true for processing the ends of workpieces, since metal spoils the surface wooden parts, leaving marks on them.
Figure 2. Homemade carpentry vice made from timber.
This means that you can’t do without a carpenter’s vice, and in order not to waste money, you can also make them yourself. An example of such a design is shown in Fig. 2. The body (1) is usually attached to the workbench tabletop, and the movable plate (2) moves along guides (3). The movable plate moves due to the rotation of the screw pin (4), which is screwed into a fixed nut fixed to the back side vice bodies.
A carpenter's vice is attached to the workbench with long screws or bolts and nuts. Overlays - wooden, plastic or metal - can be attached to the jaws of the vice. Without them, workpieces may be damaged during processing. This is especially important when working with soft woods.
One of the main components is a screw pin (4) with an M20 thread. You can order it from a workshop or look for it in a sports store. The longer it is, the wider the sponges can be spread. With a cutting length of 15 cm, they can be separated by a distance of about 8 cm. To attach the handle, a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled at the end of the screw. You can try to find blanks for making guides (3) in a hardware store among the fasteners or at a flea market.
Sponges (1 and 2) are made from two pine boards. A hole is drilled in each of them for a screw and guides. For accuracy, before drilling them, it is better to connect the boards, for example, with nails, which are then carefully removed. For processing long workpieces, you can make a vise with longer jaws and two clamping screws.
Thus, making a bench or carpenter's vice with your own hands at home is really not difficult.
And having become acquainted with the principle of operation and structure of the proposed clamping devices, it is quite possible to develop your own design.
