Tamping is the most affordable and technologically simplest method for preparing foundation foundations and. In addition, tamping is a universal method suitable for any type of soil; it involves applying a series of blows to the soil using a tool, which compact it.
The simplest case is manual tamping. You can make the tool yourself: just nail a handle to a wide beam about 100x100 mm and you're done! We lift the beam vertically by the handle and hit the surface of the soil with its end. A similar tamper can be made from boards or logs, as shown in the pictures below.
Also, a manual rammer can be made of steel, with a wooden or metal handle.
Manual tamping can be used for small volumes of work or when working in cramped conditions when it is impossible to use machinery. For manual compaction large area, for example under slab foundation, it will take too much time and effort; It is more advisable to use a vibrating plate or a pneumatic rammer, which you do not have to buy; you can rent them.
Pneumatic rammer
A pneumatic rammer works on the same principle as a manual rammer, only the engine does all the work. internal combustion working for diesel fuel or gasoline.
The tamper delivers several blows per second, so with its help the work becomes not only easier, but also faster: you just have to point it in the right direction.
Compacting soil with a vibrating plate
Vibrating plate - perhaps the most convenient device for the preparation of . Its engine can be diesel, gasoline or electric; it creates vibration and transmits it to the slab, which in turn presses on the ground. A vibrating plate does not jump like a pneumatic rammer; it has a much higher frequency of impacts on the ground and a smaller amplitude. From the outside it looks like it slowly slides along the surface, leaving behind smooth and compacted soil.
The device of a vibrating plate is quite simple and you can make it yourself, especially if it is based on an electric motor.
On the farm there is often a need to compact soil or crushed stone small area. For example, you need to repair a path, raise the floor in a barn, or straighten fence posts. A hastily put together hand tamper does not last long and is usually sent along with the rest of the construction waste. Don’t waste time and effort every time, take two hours and make a good tool for compacting the soil with your own hands.
Materials used
Suitable material for homemade manual tamper– square beam with a side of 100 or 150 mm. It will be difficult to work with a round log in the corners and will have to be compacted with a significant overlap of the previous impact point.
It is not at all necessary to take new lumber; a used lumber will do. The main thing is that the wood is free from rot and splits. Choose a piece of timber that you can lift. The height of the manual tamper can be waist-high or chest-high, depending on ease of use. If you have no experience working with this tool, take a longer block, try it out and shorten it if necessary.
Drawing of a manual tamper for soil compaction.
You will also need:
- A piece of 2mm steel plate.
- A round birch stick 450 mm long (an old shovel handle will do).
- Wood screws.
- Carpenter's glue.
Prepare the timber
Saw off the ends of the workpiece according to the dimensions exactly at right angles. Using a plane, adjust the plane of the lower end of the beam to a square. Remove 5 mm wide chamfers from sharp edges.
Decide how high-quality a finish you want. Before painting, the block will have to be sharpened and sanded. When beautiful view not needed, just clean the surface a little to avoid splinters.
Make a shoe
Transfer the dimensions of the workpiece from the drawing to the steel sheet.
You can simply align the timber vertically installed on the metal and trace the outline with a pencil.
Depending on the thickness of the plate, cut the workpiece with metal scissors or cut out the excess with a grinder. Remove burrs with a file, holding the part in a vice.
Mark and drill holes for the screws, make recesses for the caps with a countersink or a drill of a larger diameter.
Sand the surfaces with sandpaper.
Bend the wings of the workpiece in a vice, which will be easy to do with the first two opposite sides. When bending the two remaining sides, the vise jaws may turn out to be wider than the shoe, then use a timber prepared for tamping.
Secure the shoe
Check the fit of the steel plate on the beam, if necessary, tap the metal or sharpen the wood. The shoe should fit snugly against the end on all planes.
Drill holes for screws in one wing, pointing the drill at a slight angle into the wood, and tighten the screws.
Turn the beam over to the opposite side and fasten the other wing in the same way. Make sure that the shoe does not move away from the end.
When drilling subsequent holes, guide them past the already screwed in screws.
Set the handle
Mark the drilling center at a distance of 100 mm from the top end. Select a drill bit with a diameter 2 mm smaller than the cross-section of the handle. Do through hole, perpendicular to the surface of the beam.
Even with careful drilling, the outer parts of the hole will be slightly larger than the inner diameter. Sharpen the wood with a file, periodically trying to insert the handle into place.
At the same time, correct any possible misalignment of the hole relative to the plane of the beam. Achieve a tight (but without significant force) fit of the handle, and if necessary, lightly trim the stick. Do not try to hammer into the handle - the wood may split. Place the stick in the beam and make marks.
Apply glue to the sides of the hole.
Place a pen on the marks and wipe off any excess glue. Drill a pilot hole and secure the handle with a long screw.
Photo of a homemade manual soil tamper.
After use, clean the device from dust and store it in a place protected from rain and snow. Over time, the bottom of the tamper wears out; monitor the condition of the metal lining and change it in a timely manner.
Compaction is required when building on the ground, filling a cushion under the foundation (on any soil), installing a sand layer for the floor, laying paving slabs. It is performed either manually (using homemade or factory-made tools), or mechanized using various vibration devices. When working with equipment that operates by transmitting strong mechanical vibrations, it is imperative to use protective equipment for hearing and vision organs, as well as special gloves, shoes and clothing.
The goal is to obtain a dense layer that is not subject to heaving, shrinkage, compression, to create reliable support for the foundation, floor, road surface. According to the technology, several passes are usually made over the entire surface, then the quality of the compaction is visually assessed. Well-compacted material does not collapse when stepped on.
Where is sand compaction needed?
1. Sandy soil.
The main distinguishing feature is that it does not retain water well. Therefore, this type of soil is not susceptible to frost heaving, which means it is suitable for buildings, including residential ones, but only one-story or very light ones. Heaving soils in winter time they begin to push out the foundation. This is because the water they contain freezes and expands. Such soils, unlike sandy ones, are little or completely unsuitable for construction. They, as well as weak soils, are often completely removed and replaced with sand. In any case, in preparation for installation of the foundation, careful compaction is required either manually or using special tools.
During the process, the site is passed through three times. If after the third time it was not possible to achieve the desired result, then make a thinner layer. When compacting sand, including when preparing the soil, it is necessary to wet it, but moderately. Dry bulk material does not stick together, and if it is too wet, it is impossible to compact it properly. It’s easy to check the degree of moisture - if, when you squeeze it in your hand, it doesn’t stick together into a lump or crumble, then you can start working. In the hot season, you will have to constantly wet the surface, as it dries quickly.
2. Sandy foundation pad.
Foundation bedding is used in the construction of light buildings: frame, foam block or one-story buildings made of heavier materials. For installation of bases multi-storey buildings it is not suitable because it does not have a high load-bearing capacity.
Coarse river or washed quarry sand is suitable for constructing a foundation cushion. It’s not worth buying a cheaper (unwashed) one. The difference in price is insignificant, but at the same time, the dirty contains a high content of impurities, primarily clay, which has a bad effect on the strength of the base of the building.
Positive characteristics of the foundation cushion:
- ease of manufacture - simple backfill, without the use of complex equipment;
- accessibility - sand is easy to buy with delivery in any region;
- low price;
- reduces soil load well;
- Easy compaction even by hand.
Use for soils with high level water is not advisable. If this material is the only one possible variant, then geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the trench or pit. The thickness of the layer is selected taking into account the expected load and type of soil. The sand is poured in layers, moistened (but not filled with water) and compacted tightly.
3. Underlayment for the floor.
When installing houses on the ground, a non-rigid underlying layer must be installed. It includes two layers. They are poured on top of gravel or crushed stone, each layer is moistened and compacted. For backfilling, as well as for the foundation, river sand or washed quarry sand is used. To achieve uniform thickness, pegs are installed and then removed.
4. Laying paving slabs.
When paving pedestrian roads, alleys and areas with paving slabs, sand bedding must also be used. The first and final layers of the paving stone cushion are made from it. Crushed stone is used as a layer between them. According to technology requirements, all layers of the cake under the tile are compacted tightly to achieve best result moisturize periodically.
For backfilling, sifted river material is used. The thickness of its layers is determined depending on the depth of the trench and the height of the road surface element. It is often necessary to remove soil to great depths due to heaving and other problems that prevent the soil from becoming reliable basis for installation of paving slabs. In these cases, it is necessary to add a lot of sand and compact it thoroughly. Finishing layer make about 7 cm, often adding dry cement to it.
Tamping accessories
1. Manual.
Made of metal, it weighs from 5 to 10 kg. It consists of a handle and a base (“paw”) - a plate measuring approximately 20 x 25 cm or a channel (the smaller the dimensions of this part of the device, the greater the impact force). The handle of the tool is straight (in the form of a pipe) or T-shaped, with two handles on the sides. If necessary, a manual tamper with a channel can be made heavier by filling it with cement.
If you need to save money, then it’s easy to make the device yourself. Two manufacturing options:
- Make a handle from a heavy wooden beam about 1 m long and nail a “paw” from a strong board to it from below.
- Buy a separate ready-made plate (costs about 1000 rubles) and attach it to a shovel handle or a metal stick.
2. Vibrating rammer.
To compact the soil and bulk materials, including sand, on limited space use a “vibration leg”. The engine of this device runs on gasoline or diesel fuel. At the base of the apparatus there is a “heel” plate with a width of 15 to 30 cm and a length of about 33 cm. Vibratory rammers also differ in power. The operating principle is based on a vertically directed force, like hand tool, but the efficiency is much greater. This type of equipment is used on sites where it is impossible to operate large-sized equipment: vibratory plates and vibratory rollers.
2.1. Vibrating plate.
For work over a large area, subject to the possibility of free movement, tamping using a vibrating plate is suitable. This apparatus consists of a motor, a basket with a central shaft, a “heel” or “shoe” and a guide handle. The unit moves back and forth, transmitting strong mechanical vibration (vibration) to the sand particles, due to which compaction occurs.
Types of equipment for soil and bulk materials with a slab base:
- gasoline;
- diesel;
- hydraulic;
- electrical;
- with remote control.
Vibrating plates vary in weight. The lightest ones are suitable for sand.
2.2. Vibratory roller.
For the largest volumes of work, vibratory rollers are used. Their types:
- With manual control due to the guide handle;
- self-propelled with an operator's cabin, single-drum (wheeled at the rear);
- with a two-roller cabin;
- trench with remote control.
The design of a high-quality vibratory roller allows compaction to be carried out along the edges of the site, that is, the use additional equipment(manual or vibratory rammer) is not required.
Price
Price of services professional builders by compaction sandy soil or sand bedding - from 90 to 600 rubles per m2. If the area that needs to be compacted is large, or we are talking about permanent work, then you need to compare these prices with the cost of the equipment. In many cases, it is advisable to purchase a device or rent one and do everything yourself.
Renting a device for manual compaction costs approximately 500 rubles per week, renting a vibrating plate or vibrating rammer (depending on the model) costs from 700 to 3000 per day.
Depending on the type of equipment, either a vertically directed impact force or vibration transmitted from the roller shaft or the base of the slab acts. In any case, the technology does not include any secrets or complications.
We make a manual roller weighing 100-200 kg. for rolling asphalt or soil under the lawn with your own hands. You can make it with 300 mm. in the diameter of the pipe or, if under a lawn, from a gas cylinder.
We will need the following tool:
Electric welding, grinder.
We will need the following material:
1 meter of pipe 300 mm. or gas cylinder, 50 mm. angle 2 meters, 2 bearings, shaft for bearings 10 cm, 30 mm. pipe 2.5 meters, 2 pieces of 5 mm. metal 30x30 cm, sand or screenings, electrodes, cutting and grinding wheels.
Do-it-yourself manual roller from a pipe:
This roller is suitable for both rolling asphalt and rolling soil under a lawn. We weld 1 piece of metal 30x30 to one side of the pipe, cut off the excess, and the metal should not be larger than the circumference of the pipe, weld it well and grind it. We turn the pipe over and pour sand into it, tamping it well. Here we also weld a piece of metal, cut it and grind it. On one of the sides you can make a plug with a thread, in case the sand in the skating rink compacts better, you can add more. We drive the shaft 5 cm into the bearings and weld it. From the corner we make a PE-shaped frame 0.4x1.1x0.4 and weld the outer parts of the bearings to the edges. We calculate the center of the pipe circle and weld the shaft, which is welded to the bearing. You can, of course, do it without a bearing by drilling holes in the corner and inserting the shaft, but it will be harder to push. Now we weld 30 mm in the middle of the PE-shaped frame. a 2-meter pipe and at its end we weld a half-meter piece of pipe, this will be a handle. You can strengthen the pipe seam by welding spacers from the reinforcement to the frame. Our skating rink is ready. When rolling asphalt, do not forget to lubricate the roller with diesel fuel so that the asphalt does not stick.
Do-it-yourself manual roller from a gas cylinder:
This roller will be lightweight and suitable only for rolling soil under the lawn. In principle, we do everything the same here, we just need to prepare the cylinder. First you need to completely drain the remaining gas and drain the gasoline away from the fire, because... it's explosive. Then unscrew the valve from the cylinder and fill it with water, drain it and fill it again, drain it and leave it for a couple of days to air out. Fill with water to a level of 1 meter and cut off the top that we don’t need. You also need to sand the seam on the cylinder so that it does not leave marks in the future when rolling.
You do not have sufficient rights to add comments.
You may need to register on the site.
It must be said that the problem of how to manually compact crushed stone can be quite relevant in private construction.
No, of course, we are not talking about global projects, such as, for example, compacting a crushed stone cushion under the foundation of a house with an area of over 100 square meters. m. here you will definitely need special means in the form of an asphalt roller or a construction vibrating plate, since the volume of work is too large, and it will resemble “a manual sunset.” Let's talk about small forms: a parking lot in a country house, a path in the garden, or the like. When you can really cope - and this is real and tested by the experience of many - on your own, without resorting to the help of expensive teams!
How to manually compact crushed stone? The problem is not easy: physically, I mean.
Its technical solution has several options, invented by our powerful and savvy people. We’ll talk about them in today’s article, but first, about some general principles tampers.
Why do you need to compact crushed stone?
Frankly speaking, the problem is quite interesting and not entirely clear to some.
And among newcomers to the construction business, this is the most frequently asked question. It would seem that you have covered the surfaces with this durable and strong material, leveled it and that’s it - you can cover it with the final coating, what can happen, because a stone is a stone?
But it's not that simple. As you know, crushed stone is not a simple, natural stone (like gravel), but crushed artificially. It is durable, but has sharp corners due to its production technology.
Thus, additional compaction of the material creates a tighter fit of individual fractional fragments to each other, and excess voids between them disappear or are reduced in volume. This creates an additional margin of safety for the installation.
Let's listen to the opinions of professionals. They confirm that compacting crushed stone during construction is mandatory.
Exceptions may include such options when the natural soils on which the work is being carried out are rocky. Then it will be sufficient to carefully level the crushed stone before subsequently laying concrete, tiles or asphalt on it. In all other cases, the idea is this: crushed stone as a base should not just lie in the ground, but together with it form a mixture compacted by compaction with dense filling of the cracks between the fractional fragments with soil.
The thickness can vary for different purposes from 50 to 250 mm or more (this depends on what load the final coating will subsequently experience). Now that everything is more or less clear with the theory - why tamping is necessary - let's move on, so to speak, to practical exercises.
Manual tamping
When you don’t have a vibrating plate or roller at hand, you can make your own means for tamping.
But we repeat, these mechanisms, driven by human muscular power, invented by folk craftsmen, are relevant only for compacting not too large fragments of surfaces, or those that subsequently will not experience too powerful loads on themselves.
There are quite a lot of options for making a device for manual tamping. The simplest one looks like this. Let's take it wooden beam with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm, and better - 150x150, then you will get a wider coverage of the rammed surface.
The height of the beam should be convenient for work (usually approximately up to the chest of the person performing the compaction).
From timber rounded 50x50 mm we make handles, which we nail to the base with nails and fastenings made of iron or galvanized sheet. The bottom of the device is also sheathed with galvanized sheet to increase strength.
In principle, the simplest device, probably known since the time of the pharaohs, is ready for use. Of course, the surface area for compaction was not too large, but if you have free time and desire, you can even compact a crushed stone cushion under the foundation of, for example, a small outbuilding.
True, this will take more effort and time than when using a gasoline vibrating plate, but as an option, it is actually quite widely used.
Using such a manual mechanism is quite simple, however, it requires a certain physical training, because you really get tired.
Making your own lawn roller
We lift the device by the handles and forcefully lower it, for example, onto a gravel-filled garden path. We repeat the movement many times, moving in a given direction.
Thus, you need to go the whole way several times.
One note: There are many options for such a device. There are more durable ones, made from a metal pipe of approximately the same diameter with a metal “leg” welded to the base.
True, such a design creates too much vibration when used (which, for example, wooden device extinguishes), and then work should be done with special gloves.
DIY skating rink
The same applies to a manual asphalt roller, which is also widely used for compacting small fractions of crushed stone (especially for various path options).
It’s not difficult to make it if you have a grinder and a welding machine, as well as certain materials. Metal pipe with a diameter of at least 30 cm, cut to a length of one meter. Brew on one side metal sheet and cut in a circle with a grinder. There should be a hole exactly in the middle of the sheet for later attaching the handle.
Turn the pipe over with the open end facing up and pour sand inside. We also weld the other end into a sheet and cut it around the circumference.
We put a handle made of a curved pipe on the device for manual tamping. Happened universal device, which, due to its weight, can be used for compacting small crushed stone, and for laying asphalt in the yard, and for sand and soil to make them denser. It is quite easy to use, but it will also require some skill and good physical development on your part.
More options
If, for example, you need to compact a small area for parking your car at your dacha, then you can use the following method, invented by the people and successfully used, since there is nothing particularly complicated in the technology.
So, we scatter the crushed stone over the area measured in advance and marked with pegs (be sure to leave some of it for backfilling).
We level it with a shovel so that the layer is the same thickness everywhere. Then we get behind the wheel of the car and methodically begin to park in the future parking lot in various places - sometimes in the center, sometimes on the left, sometimes on the right, sometimes on the side - trying to cover the space filled with rubble as much as possible. We do the procedure many times (20, 30, 50) until we are sure that the crushed stone is compacted along the entire plane with the weight of the car.
Shallow ruts may appear in some areas. Add pre-prepared crushed stone to them and continue. Here is such a simple but effective method, although it is not done entirely by hand, but using the weight of your machine.
Crushed stone compaction coefficient: how is it calculated, bulk density of granite and gravel
The compaction coefficient of any bulk material shows how much its volume can be reduced with the same mass due to compaction or natural shrinkage. This indicator is used to determine the amount of filler both during purchase and during the construction process itself.
Since the bulk weight of crushed stone of any fraction will increase after compaction, it is necessary to immediately lay down a supply of material. And in order not to purchase too much, a correction factor will come in handy.
- What is the degree of compaction?
- Compaction during transport and on site
- Laboratory tests
- Self-determination of the indicator
What does it affect?
Compaction coefficient (Ku) is an important indicator that is needed not only for correct formation ordering materials.
Knowing this parameter for the selected fraction, it is possible to predict further shrinkage of the gravel layer after loading it building structures, as well as the stability of the objects themselves.
Since the compaction coefficient represents the degree of volume reduction, it varies under the influence of several factors:
Loading method and parameters (for example, from what height is backfilling performed).
2. Features of transport and the duration of the journey - after all, even in a stationary mass, gradual compaction occurs when it sags under its own weight.
3. Fractions of crushed stone and grain contents of smaller size than the lower limit of a specific class.
4. Flakiness - needle-shaped stones do not give as much sediment as cuboid ones.
The strength subsequently depends on how accurately the degree of compaction was determined. concrete structures, building foundations and road surfaces.
However, do not forget that compaction on the site is sometimes performed only on the top layer, and in this case the calculated coefficient does not fully correspond to the actual shrinkage of the pillow.
Home craftsmen and semi-professional construction teams from neighboring countries are especially guilty of this. Although, according to technology requirements, each layer of backfill must be rolled and checked separately.
Another nuance - the degree of compaction is calculated for a mass that is compressed without lateral expansion, that is, it is limited by the walls and cannot spread out.
At the site, such conditions for backfilling any fraction of crushed stone are not always created, so a small error will remain. Take this into account when calculating the settlement of large structures.
Sealing during transport
Finding some standard compressibility value is not so easy - too many factors influence it, as we discussed above. The crushed stone compaction coefficient can be indicated by the supplier in the accompanying documents, although GOST 8267-93 does not directly require this.
But transporting gravel, especially large quantities, reveals a significant difference in volumes when loading and at the final point of delivery of the material. Therefore, an adjustment factor that takes into account its compaction must be included in the contract and monitored at the collection point.
The only mention from the current GOST is that the declared indicator, regardless of the fraction, should not exceed 1.1. Suppliers, of course, know this and try to keep a small supply so that there are no returns.
The measurement method is often used during acceptance, when crushed stone for construction is brought to the site, because it is ordered not in tons, but in cubic meters.
When the transport arrives, the loaded body must be measured from the inside with a tape measure to calculate the volume of gravel delivered, and then multiply it by a factor of 1.1. This will allow you to roughly determine how many cubes were put into the machine before shipping. If the figure obtained taking into account the compaction is less than that indicated in the accompanying documents, it means that the car was underloaded.
Equal or greater - you can command unloading.
Compaction on site
The above figure is taken into account only for transportation.
Under construction site conditions, where crushed stone is compacted artificially and using heavy machines (vibrating plate, roller), this coefficient can increase to 1.52.
How to make a roller for soil compaction
And the performers need to know the shrinkage of the gravel backfill for sure.
Typically the required parameter is specified in project documentation. But when the exact value is not needed, they use average indicators from SNiP 3.06.03-85:
- For durable crushed stone of fraction 40-70, a compaction of 1.25-1.3 is given (if its grade is not lower than M800).
- For rocks with a strength of up to M600 - from 1.3 to 1.5.
For small and medium size classes of 5-20 and 20-40 mm, these indicators are not established, since they are more often used only when decluttering the upper load-bearing layer of grains 40-70.
Laboratory research
The compaction coefficient is calculated based on laboratory test data, where the mass is compacted and tested on various devices.
There are methods here:
1. Substitution of volumes (GOST 28514-90).
2. Standard layer-by-layer compaction of crushed stone (GOST 22733-2002).
Express methods using one of three types of density meters: static, water balloon or dynamic.
Results can be obtained immediately or after 1-4 days, depending on the study chosen.
One sample for a standard test will cost 2,500 rubles, and at least five of them will be needed in total. If data is needed during the day, express methods are used based on the results of selecting at least 10 points (850 rubles each).
for each). Plus you will have to pay for the departure of a laboratory assistant - about 3 thousand more. But during the construction of large projects it is impossible to do without accurate data, and even more so without official documents confirming the contractor’s compliance with the project requirements.
How to find out the degree of compaction yourself?
IN field conditions and for the needs of private construction, it will also be possible to determine the required coefficient for each size: 5-20, 20-40, 40-70.
But to do this, you first need to know them bulk density. It varies depending on the mineralogical composition, although slightly. Crushed stone fractions have a much greater influence on the volumetric weight. For calculations, you can use averaged data:
More accurate density data for a specific fraction is determined in the laboratory.
Or by weighing a known volume construction crushed stone followed by a simple calculation:
- Bulk weight = mass/volume.
After this, the mixture is rolled to the state in which it will be used on site and measured with a tape measure. The calculation is made again using the above formula, and as a result, two different densities are obtained - before and after compaction. By dividing both numbers, we find out the compaction coefficient specifically for this material. If the sample weights are the same, you can simply find the ratio of the two volumes - the result will be the same.
Please note: if the indicator after compaction is divided by the initial density, the answer will be greater than one - in fact, this is the material reserve factor for compaction.
It is used in construction if the final parameters of the gravel bed are known and it is necessary to determine how much crushed stone of the selected fraction to order. When calculated back, the result is a value less than one. But these numbers are equivalent and when making calculations it is only important not to get confused which one to take.
Do-it-yourself manual rammer for soil compaction
On the farm there is often a need to compact soil or crushed stone in a small area. For example, you need to repair a path, raise the floor in a barn, or straighten fence posts.
A hastily put together hand tamper does not last long and is usually sent along with the rest of the construction waste. Don’t waste time and effort every time, take two hours and make a good tool for compacting the soil with your own hands.
Materials used
A suitable material for homemade manual tamping is a square beam with a side of 100 or 150 mm. It will be difficult to work with a round log in the corners and will have to be compacted with a significant overlap of the previous impact point.
It is not at all necessary to take new lumber; a used lumber will do.
The main thing is that the wood is free from rot and splits. Choose a piece of timber that you can lift. The height of the manual tamper can be waist-high or chest-high, depending on ease of use. If you have no experience working with this tool, take a longer block, try it out and shorten it if necessary.
Drawing of a manual tamper for soil compaction.
You will also need:
- A piece of 2mm steel plate.
- A round birch stick 450 mm long (an old shovel handle will do).
- Wood screws.
- Carpenter's glue.
Materials for the manufacture of manual soil compaction.
Prepare the timber
Saw off the ends of the workpiece according to the dimensions exactly at right angles.
Using a plane, adjust the plane of the lower end of the beam to a square. Remove 5 mm wide chamfers from sharp edges.
Preparing timber for tamping.
Decide how high-quality a finish you want.
Before painting, the block will have to be sharpened and sanded. When a beautiful look is not needed, it is enough to clean the surface a little so that there are no splinters.
Make a shoe
Transfer the dimensions of the workpiece from the drawing to the steel sheet.
Cut out the plates for the shoe.
You can simply align the timber vertically installed on the metal and trace the outline with a pencil.
We make a soil compactor shoe.
Depending on the thickness of the plate, cut the workpiece with metal scissors or cut out the excess with a grinder.
Remove burrs with a file, holding the part in a vice.
Mark and drill holes for the screws, make recesses for the caps with a countersink or a drill of a larger diameter.
Sand the surfaces with sandpaper.
Tamping shoe.
Bend the wings of the workpiece in a vice, which will be easy to do with the first two opposite sides.
DIY lawn roller
When bending the two remaining sides, the vise jaws may turn out to be wider than the shoe, then use a timber prepared for tamping.
Secure the shoe
Check the fit of the steel plate on the beam, if necessary, tap the metal or sharpen the wood.
The shoe should fit snugly against the end on all planes.
Drill holes for screws in one wing, pointing the drill at a slight angle into the wood, and tighten the screws.
We attach the shoe to the prepared beam.
Turn the beam over to the opposite side and fasten the other wing in the same way.
Make sure that the shoe does not move away from the end.
When drilling subsequent holes, guide them past the already screwed in screws.
A shoe attached to a manual tamper.
Set the handle
Mark the drilling center at a distance of 100 mm from the top end.
Select a drill bit with a diameter 2 mm smaller than the cross-section of the handle. Make a through hole perpendicular to the surface of the beam.
We make a hole for the handle of the tamper.
Even with careful drilling, the outer parts of the hole will be slightly larger than the inner diameter.
Sharpen the wood with a file, periodically trying to insert the handle into place.
At the same time, correct any possible misalignment of the hole relative to the plane of the beam.
Achieve a tight (but without significant force) fit of the handle, and if necessary, lightly trim the stick. Do not try to hammer into the handle - the wood may split. Place the stick in the beam and make marks.
Installing the handle on the soil tamper.
Apply glue to the sides of the hole.
Place a pen on the marks and wipe off any excess glue.
Drill a pilot hole and secure the handle with a long screw.
Fixing the handle on the tamper.
Photo of a homemade manual soil tamper.
After use, clean the device from dust and store it in a place protected from rain and snow.
Over time, the bottom of the tamper wears out; monitor the condition of the metal lining and change it in a timely manner.
When constructing layers of road pavement from bulk materials such as sand, sand-gravel mixture or crushed stone, it is necessary to carefully compact the layer using road rollers.
A roller is a road-building machine designed to compact soils and layer-by-layer compaction of layers of road pavement made of bulk materials. Rollers are used in road and airfield construction, in the construction of hydraulic structures and railway tracks.
The operating principle of rollers may vary, and depending on this, the principle used to compact one or another type of material also differs.
The compaction can be static, that is, only the weight of the roller itself is used. If the roller is vibrating, the vibration of the working compacting element is also added to the weight of the machine, which increases the efficiency of rolling the material.
There are trailed and self-propelled rollers. The working bodies of rollers - rollers - also come in several types: cam, smooth steel, lattice and pneumatic rubber tires, single-roller, double-roller and three-roller.
But there is one characteristic that is basic for all types of rollers - their weight. But the heavy weight of the roller does not mean it effectively compacts the material.
If the material used in construction is crushed stone, then when compacting it it is necessary to take into account a number of features. Typically, when constructing roads, crushed stone of small fractions is used: 2-10 mm and large fractions - from 40 mm to 70 mm.
A smaller fraction (wedge) is poured over the surface of a large fraction, and during the rolling process, penetration of smaller grains of crushed stone between the larger ones is formed. A so-called spell occurs.
When the roller passes over a layer of crushed stone, due to friction, the upper layer begins to shift and waves or swells may form on the surface of the crushed stone base. Thus, to form an absolutely flat and compacted surface, the cyclic load must be applied repeatedly.
When compacting the crushed stone layer of road pavement, it is important to choose the optimal weight of the roller itself.
If the weight of the road vehicle is too large, the compacted layer may be pushed through and the underlying layers of road pavement may be deformed, which, of course, is unacceptable.
To compact a layer of crushed stone from less durable rocks, such as limestone, it is more effective to use rollers with pneumatic tires or weights that are not too heavy.
Setting up a lawn - is a skating rink really necessary?
Under heavy smooth rollers, weak, fragile crushed stone may begin to crumble. It should be noted that when compacting the crushed stone layer with rollers on pneumatic tires, it is possible to increase the speed of passage of such a roller compared to a smooth roller.
The speed of the roller in operating mode can vary from 2 km/h. up to 12 km/h. The first passes through the crushed stone layer are made on minimum speed, and after preliminary compaction, the operator increases the speed.
Also in the case of a roller with pneumatic tires, the tire pressure on the last passes can be increased.
Before compaction and during compaction of the crushed stone layer, it is necessary to moisten the material with water (from 10 l to 25 l at each stage of rolling).
Compaction of crushed stone with rollers is divided into three stages:
1 – stage: 3 - 6 passes of the skating rink along one track;
2 – stage: 10 – 40 passes;
Stage 3: 10 – 20 passes.
After rolling, the heavy roller should not leave any marks on the surface of the crushed stone layer.
Empirically, summarizing many years of experience in the construction of crushed stone layers, the optimal parameters of rollers (weight, type) that ensure maximum compaction of the layer, as well as their operating modes (static, vibration, high-speed) have been established, depending on the type, strength and grain composition of crushed stone, as well as layer thickness.
It has been established that a sign of complete compaction of the layer is the absence of a trace from the passage of a heavy smooth drum roller in static mode.
Crushed stone thrown under the drum is crushed. The above-described control method is today the only one standardized by relevant technical documents.
It should be noted that this method is qualitative in nature, therefore, over the years, attempts have been made to find a quantitative method for assessing the degree of compaction of the layer.
Previously, the so-called “hole method” was proposed to control the density of the constructed crushed stone layer. The essence of the method is to measure the mass and volume of crushed stone removed from a hole in the constructed layer.
From the measured values, the density is calculated, which can be compared with the density of the first constructed layer section of the same material using the same rollers.
The lack of a standard density, as well as the labor intensity of the method, did not allow it to be used in construction practice.
There are known attempts to equip rollers with various sensors, which were supposed to record the degree of compaction of the rolled layer. To date, such methods have not been found in practical use in the construction of crushed stone layers.
There are proposals for assessing the quality of compaction of the crushed stone layer by determining its bearing capacity.
It should be said that the methods for determining the load-bearing capacity are standardized by BSN 46-83 and described in this instruction and involve two methods: measuring the deflection of the constructed structure under the wheel truck deflection meter or measuring the deflection of a constructed structure loaded through a stamp standard diameter from truck pressure. Based on the measured deflection, the overall modulus of elasticity of the constructed structure is calculated (crushed stone + sand + earth.
canvas). If you ask or also measure the deflection of the underlying sand layer and subgrade, then you can use VSN 46-83 to calculate the actual modulus of elasticity of the crushed stone layer and compare it with the calculated (normative) one. As can be seen from the above, these seal quality control proposals are labor-intensive and pure form do not show the density of the controlled crushed stone layer.
IN last years Dynamic deflection meters have been developed and are increasingly used, which record the deflection of a constructed structure loaded by the impact of a falling weight on a stamp mounted on the structure being tested.
This method is more efficient compared to the above-described methods for determining deflection according to VSN 46-83. However, the device is very expensive, and when calculating the elastic modulus of the tested layer, it has the same disadvantages as those described above. Therefore, its most appropriate area of application is assessing the quality of the entire constructed structure (crushed stone-sand-soil). Analysis of the known proposed methods for assessing the quality of the crushed stone layer made it possible to develop a reliable, simple, lightweight and cheap device for quantitative control of the degree of compaction of the crushed stone layer under construction.
The above mentioned it distinctive features allow us to say about the possibility of its use in all field road construction laboratories. Below are its parameters and test results.
The device was developed by the Federal State Unitary Enterprise Soyuzdor Research Institute in collaboration with JSC Dorstroypribor and is intended to control the density (compaction quality) of crushed stone layers of road pavement.
The operation of the device is based on a loaded and flat stamp installed on the surface of the test layer of material, with impacts from a freely falling load.
The controlled parameter characterizing the degree of compaction of the material layer is taken to be the magnitude of the rebound of the falling load from the surface of the compacted layer.
When working with the device, it is necessary to install the stamp 8 of the device on a crushed stone base.
Having moved the load to its uppermost position, secure it with the load-locking handle 2. Then, using the vertical handle 1, press the stamp to the crushed stone base being tested and release the load-locking handle. The weight falls freely onto the anvil. The weight on the rebound of the load is fixed with a rebound locking tongue.
All the main parameters of the device (diameter of the stamp, weight of the load, lifting height of the load, spring stiffness, system for recording the height of the rebound of the load) were established experimentally.
The criterion for choosing the parameters of the device was to ensure the required sensitivity of the device to the measured parameter (degree of compaction - rigidity of the crushed stone layer), reliability of measurements and the creation of a device with minimal weight and the simplest design.
The diameter of the device stamp, equal to 150 mm, was chosen based on the need to fulfill two conditions: first, the diameter of the stamp exceeds maximum size crushed stones by 2-3 times, which allows us to consider the well-known condition that the device measures the elasticity of the layer, and not of individual crushed stone, to be fulfilled; the second is based on the well-known theoretical principles that the dynamic load is transmitted through the stamp to a depth of 1.5-3.0 diameters, which in our case is 22.5-45 cm and corresponds to the actual thickness of the crushed stone layers being arranged.
The weight of the weight is 2.5 kg, the lifting height is 45 cm and the applied spring stiffness is established experimentally, based on ensuring the conditions for the necessary sensitivity of the device from the dynamic - kinetic energy it creates when the weight hits the stamp through the spring and the elastic characteristics of the measured crushed stone layer.
Several systems for recording the height of a load's rebound have been tested.
The most reliable and simple one was chosen.
The use of the device makes it possible to establish a quantitative assessment of the degree of compaction of the layer and its relationship with the requirements of SNiP 3.06.03-85. The results of assessing the degree of compaction in accordance with the requirements of SNiP are shown in the table.
At each measurement location, five determinations of the height of the rebound of the striker (weight) of the device are made without displacing the device stamp. The first two dimensions in the calculation average size rebound are not applied, because
at the first blows
there is a change in the contact of the lower surface of the device stamp with the tested surface of the crushed stone
grounds. Based on the last three measurements, the arithmetic mean value of the rebound value of the falling load of the device is determined, which characterizes the compaction quality of the tested layer.
Due to the fact that the rebound value of the density meter weight for different materials is not the same, it is necessary to determine the required rebound value of a particular material on the first experimental section of the foundation before starting construction.
Lawn roller - we make it ourselves
This certain rebound value will further characterize the compliance of the compaction of the base sections with the requirements of SNiP 3.06.03-85.
When building foundations for houses, garages, country paths and much more, great attention is paid to the substrate, consisting of gravel and sand. To ensure that the concrete monolith is laid evenly and does not begin to move over time, it is important to carefully level the underlying layer. For these purposes, you can use specialized vibratory tamping machines or rolling equipment, but manual tamping will be much cheaper.
The principle of do-it-yourself processing is that with the help of a homemade tool, blows are applied to the surface, due to which the sand and crushed stone are compacted. In this case, compaction is performed after laying each of these layers.
Features of crushed stone compaction
Any novice builder is sincerely perplexed as to why compact an already strong stone. However, there are several important nuances to consider:
- Since crushed stone is obtained by crushing, its particles are obtained different sizes with free-form edges. Because of this, when laying the underlying layer, the particles of the material are not completely adjacent to each other, forming a large number of air voids, the appearance of which ultimately leads to a decrease in the level of load resistance. If fragments of crushed stone fit tightly together, the volume of material will be reduced, but a stronger base will be formed.
- If crushed stone is laid on rocky soil, then compaction can be dispensed with. In this case, you only need to level the gravel.
- After compacting the gravel, the thickness of the layer can be from 50 to 250 mm, depending on the loads that will be exerted on the base.
In addition, when processing crushed stone, it is recommended to declinch the base. To do this, you need to divide the gravel into fractions. The larger material is laid first and compacted by hand. Then smaller material is backfilled, which is also compacted. The final top layer should consist of the finest material, which must be carefully leveled and re-compacted.
Thanks to this, the finished base will have increased strength. If you perform a similar manual tamping of sand, the effect will be even better.
Features of sand compaction
Tamping sand with your own hands has some nuances that should be taken into account when creating a solid foundation for a concrete slab.
First of all, you should decide on the type of sand that is best suited for these purposes. It is better to use gravelly material, but it is not recommended to use fine sand for compaction. The larger the grains, the greater the compression resistance of the base, which will help avoid shrinkage of the future house or parking area.
If you are planning to build monolithic structure, then it is best to give preference to river or quarry sand middle fraction. However, even in this case, the underlying layer will be influenced groundwater. Therefore, in order to prevent the process of erosion of the base, it is necessary to lay geotextiles at the bottom of the trench, and only after that add sand.
In addition, before adding sand, it must be sifted, since the presence of foreign impurities (especially clay) can affect its properties. Monitor the moisture level of the material; the ideal consistency will be if you can roll the sand into a small ball that will not crumble immediately. Accordingly, the sand moisture level should be in the range of 8-14%.
Accordingly, 50% of the successful laying of a gravel-sand cushion depends on the material itself, the remaining 50% comes from the equipment. As mentioned earlier, specialized machines can be used for these purposes, but it is much cheaper to make a manual rammer yourself.
Making a manual tamper
There are many options for making a rammer with your own hands. Some people make massive structures entirely made of iron, but in this case welding will be required. Others prefer to make do with improvised materials. Let's consider best option production of manual rammers for compacting soil, sand and gravel.
To do this you will need a standard beam square section by 100 - 150 mm. It should not be rotten or flaking.
Healthy! Some use round logs, but with the help of such compactors it is impossible to fully compact the base in the corners.
You will also need to prepare:
- A steel plate with a thickness of at least 2 mm.
- A round stick about 450 mm long (it will serve as the handle of the future tamper). To do this, you can use an unnecessary shovel handle.
- Screws and wood glue.
Making blanks
We will prepare the structure according to the drawing shown below.
After preparing everything you need, saw off the ends of the timber at a right, even angle, according to the dimensions. After this, it is necessary to use a plane to level the plane of the lower end of the block and remove chamfers of about 5 mm from the edges of the workpiece.
To avoid getting numerous splinters during the work, it is recommended to sand and polish the surface of the block.
Making a “shoe”
The next stage of creating a tamping tool with your own hands is making a metal “shoe” from a sheet of steel. To cut the plate we use the following template.
Or, you can simply install the beam with its lower end on a sheet of metal and trace it with a pencil.
After this you need:
- Cut the workpiece, as in the picture, using special metal scissors or using a grinder.
- Remove metal burrs from the shoe. To do this, it is most convenient to clamp the workpiece in a vice and remove the excess with a file.
- Without removing the “shoe” from the vice, drill holes for the screws at the previously marked points.
- Clean the surface with sandpaper.
- Bend the “wings” of the workpiece and install the beam into the “shoe”. If the workpiece is a little wider, you need to knock out the “wings” with a hammer.
- Place the drill bit into the screw holes and drill through the wood at a slight angle.
- Secure the screws on all sides.
Installing the handle
Having retreated 100 mm from the upper edge of the block, it is necessary to mark the center of the future handle. To do this, you must first measure the diameter of the shovel handle. Let's say it is 36 mm. To prevent the handle from dangling, you need to use a drill whose diameter will be several mm smaller than the diameter of the handle. It should be taken into account that outer part the holes in the bar will be slightly larger than the internal diameter, so during the work process it is necessary to periodically insert the handle into the bar and check how tightly it fits.
If the handle does not fit into the hole, you should never try to hammer it in with a hammer. Otherwise, the timber may crack and making a rammer for earth, sand and gravel with your own hands will have to start all over again. It is much easier to slightly plan the cutting to the required diameter.
After the hole is ready, you need to apply glue to its walls and install the handle. Surplus adhesive composition can be removed with a cloth. In order for the handle to hold tightly, you need to fix it with a long screw, which must be screwed into one of the sides of the beam.
When the glue gains strength, you can begin to use the tamper. Keep homemade instrument It’s best to do it in a dry place, or you can pre-paint the workpiece to make it last longer. If necessary, the steel nozzle can be easily replaced with a new one.
In custody
With help hand tools You can compact sand, gravel or soil. However, it is worth considering that in this case human muscle strength is used, so use a similar tool for compaction large areas it will be expensive. Such rammers are recommended for use when constructing foundations for small buildings or when arranging garden areas.
