DIY plinth made of wood. Homemade plinth for the floor. Ceiling plinth or wood fillet

In the Soviet Union, skirting boards were only made of wood; they were installed quite simply - with a hammer and nails. Panel houses had a plinth made of cement mortar. Nowadays, plastic skirting boards have also appeared.

And yet the most ancient and reliable option The floor edging is a wooden plinth. Wood-rich Rus' has long used this material in construction. Today, wooden plinths, so to speak, a classic of Slavic house-building, are in great demand, since, with all positive properties plastic, wood - living, breathing natural material, looks very good and is easy to use.

WHAT WOOD ARE THE SKIRTING BOARDS MADE FROM?

When choosing according to GOST, we will most likely purchase a pine product. After all, pine is an excellent material for construction; it has excellent characteristics. But this is not the only material of its kind from which skirting boards can be made.

Let's start with the fact that the plinth should be perceived visually as a straight line, which, as it were, emphasizes the floor. For this line to be truly smooth, the material from which the product is made must also be smooth. That is, the wood that was used on the baseboards should not have been subject to deformation under the influence high humidity. In other words, it is extremely undesirable for it to “twist”.

Moisture-resistant species are conifers, such as pine, spruce, yew, fir, and larch. They are not subject to deformation if they grow in places high humidity, and also do not crack when dry. Therefore, they are very convenient for installation and easy to process.

Hardwoods, such as walnut, linden, cherry, are very soft, subject to deformation, and therefore are not suitable for construction. Solid deciduous trees- hornbeam, oak, maple are capable of cracking when drying, and they are difficult to process and install due to their increased hardness.

According to the material, all skirting boards are classified as follows:

plastic (thin-walled or foam);
veneered (the outside is thin veneer made of valuable wood, and the base is coniferous wood;
wooden (solid wood of one type of wood is used);
laminated MDF (base - MDF, outside film with a pattern of stone or wood);
others (ceramics, metal, polyurethane, etc.)

Mounting methods:

using clips;
self-tapping screws or finishing nails;
adhesive;
hidden fastener in the cable channel.

By decorative layer:

wood pattern (natural or imitation);
monotonous color;
identical to the floor covering (wood, imitation carpet, etc.)

By degree of flexibility:

hard (metal, wood, ceramics, plastic, polyurethane);
medium (thin-walled plastic, plastic cable channel);
flexible skirting boards (special types).

INSTALLATION OF WOODEN SKIRTING BOARD

Installation of such a plinth is impossible without basic construction skills. After all, wood is not plastic, and working with it is not easy. And yet, if desired, installation wooden skirting boards You may well be able to do it yourself, the main thing is to do everything according to the instructions.

First, let's determine what tools and materials are needed to install a wooden baseboard, and you need quite a lot of them:

miter box;
construction corner;
wood hacksaw;
roulette;
wood hacksaw with a thin blade;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
pencil;
electric drill;
wooden baseboards;
dowels (if we attach them to drywall, then “butterflies”;
countersink;
long nail.

INSTALLING A WOODEN SKIRTING BOARD ON A BRICK WALL

First, very important rule: install skirting boards only at the beginning of the second day after purchase. This time will be needed for the new skirting boards to “get used” to the new room: dry out, adapt to the new temperature conditions, “get to know” the humidity level of a given room. If the new plinth is made from damp wood, if it has not dried well enough, after installation it may “lead” and the whole work will be ruined.

But the day has finally passed, the plinth has adapted, and you can install it. Where to start? As a rule, with internal corner premises. First of all, we take measurements. Let's measure the wall from corner to corner, its length. Next, transfer the dimensions to the wooden plinth and mark the place where you need to cut. We install the construction corner in the desired position and draw a straight line, separating the unnecessary part of the plank. High-quality joining of skirting boards occurs when their ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. To measure and cut very evenly, use a miter box. This simple tool helps to cut the objects we need very evenly. You can also cut the baseboard using a circular saw.

We measured it, now we cut it with a hacksaw. Next is docking. If everything was measured correctly and cut to fit right angle, everything should go well. But sometimes it happens that after measuring and cutting there is still a noticeable gap in the corner, since the corner of the room itself failed - it turned out to be uneven and of poor quality. Yes, the corners of a room are not always 90 degrees; sometimes they are 87 or 93. This happens when the diagonal was broken during the construction of a building - laying a foundation or erecting walls. Don’t throw away the baseboard and don’t be upset: after all, a small gap can be filled with putty. Well, a larger gap can also be removed if you grind down the edges of the plinth to minimum sizes cracks. This adjustment of joints can be done with a simple grinder.

The appearance of the skirting boards directly depends on how correctly they are fixed, as well as the tools that you have available for installation. For example, a tool called a countersink helps to make a recess for the head of a screw, which allows you to hide it completely.

By the way, initially uneven corners of the room are marked somewhat differently than those that do not deviate from universal standards. IN in this case A plinth stick is placed between the wall and the floor at the corner; closer to the joint, we draw a marking line on the floor along the plinth. This operation We do it for each corner separately on both sides. Then we cut off a piece of the required length and make markings at the end of the rail.

The top point can be the top corner of the stick, which is resting against the opposing wall. The lowest point is marking line on the floor, perpendicular to the baseboard that we are marking. We connect these points with a line and cut the plank at an angle of 90 degrees to the floor. A neat cut usually leaves no gaps. In relation to the length of the wall, the length of the plinth that we cut should be maximum. Only in this case will they fit together tightly and beautifully.

If two skirting boards are installed along the entire length of the room, they are also connected at an angle of 45 degrees, so that the smooth joint in the middle is not noticeable. If one plinth is enough for the entire length, then we adjust the other end at the corner to the same size. Let's take a closer look at this.

The length of a plinth alone is not always enough to stretch it from wall to wall. Sometimes two or three segments are used, and a strong and beautiful connection is also needed between them. Corners cut at 90 degrees will not work here. You need to cut them at an angle of 45 degrees, such a joint, if it is made carefully and processed sandpaper, will not be visible at all.

By the way, the quality of both corner and intermediate joining depends largely on the quality of the product itself. The plinth should be the same throughout its entire thickness, there should be no knots or jagged edges at the joints.

Attaching a wooden plinth to the wall

Using a drill, we mark the wall where the mounting dowels will be placed. The procedure is very simple. As a rule, a wooden plinth is attached after about 50 cm - this is if the wall is smooth, and if not very smooth, then it can be attached more often.

Then, using the markings made, we drill holes into which the plastic dowel will be placed - these are the ones that are used if the wall is made of brick. If the wall is made of plasterboard, the baseboard is fastened with self-tapping screws or butterfly dowels.

The mounting process is also quite simple. We take into account only a few points. One of them is that the plank can be fixed only after careful adjustment of the joints. It is very important to observe the correct depth of the holes for the dowels; it should be no more than 1 cm deeper than the length of the dowel itself. For accurate drilling, wrap the drill with electrical tape to the indicated depth of the hole. On the baseboard you also need to drill recesses for the heads of dowel screws and self-tapping screws so that they are not visible on the baseboards later. For such recesses, take a drill whose diameter is slightly larger than the fastening head. Or, for such holes, a tool such as a countersink is used.

Then we fix a well-fitted plinth around the perimeter of the room. All is ready! Proceed to puttying, varnishing or painting the wooden baseboard, having first cleaned the surface of dirt and dust. To prevent the varnish from getting on the floor and wallpaper, you should cover them with something.

We have described a method for attaching a wooden plinth to a brick wall.

How to install a wooden plinth on plasterboard walls.

First, with a pencil, measure out the places on the wall where the screws will be located, which will be used to install the plinth. However, this procedure is not so necessary; it is quite possible to do without it.
We transfer the markings applied to the wall onto a wooden plank.
We drill holes in the plank, for this we definitely use wooden board, which we place under the bar as a support and so as not to spoil flooring. The diameter of the hole cannot exceed the thickness of the nails we will use, so measure the diameter of the drill very carefully.
Next, take a countersink and make small indentations in the holes made. As already written above, such recesses will serve to ensure that the head of the screw is completely immersed in the baseboard.
Having replaced the drill with a suitable bit, carefully secure the baseboard with self-tapping screws.

We attach the wooden plinth to concrete wall.

We drill a hole in the baseboard using the technology indicated above.
Place the baseboard against the wall and insert a long nail into the holes you just made. We hit it several times: you need one strong or several weak blows with a hammer on the nail. The result of this procedure is obvious: a mark remains on the concrete wall. Everything is correct, because the purpose of this action is not to break through the wall, but only to make a nail mark on it.
Focusing on this inconspicuous chip on the wall, we drill a hole required diameter using an electric drill.
We hammer a dowel into the hole made.
We install the wooden plinth and screw it in one by one required quantity self-tapping screws

Fastening floor plinth on internal corners.

We create a layout of the plank by sawing off a couple of centimeters from a wooden baseboard.
We lean the model with its edge against the plinth and trace the outline of its end with a pencil.
Using a wood hacksaw with thin blade, carefully saw the material, repeating all the features of the contour.
Check the accuracy of the cut before installing the plinth by constructing an internal corner from the planks.

How to fix a wooden floor skirting board at the outer corners

We install the plinth in the intended location and reflect external corner walls on planks.
We install the wooden plinth in the miter box and make the cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
Checking the accuracy of the cut.
We finally install the baseboards, securing them with self-tapping screws.

ATTACHING A WOODEN SKIRTING BOARD TO THE FLOOR

You can attach the plinth to the wall, or to the floor. How it's done? Quite simply - with nails. Sometimes it is even easier to nail it to the floor than to the wall, since it is easier to attach wood to wood. You just need to try to avoid gaps between the plinth and the wall (in this case, the gaps between the plinth and the floor are completely eliminated), which can arise from the unevenness of our typical walls and floors.

In this case, the nails are driven into the floor boards through the baseboard strip at approximately an angle of 70-80 degrees to the floor. Well, if it’s impossible to hammer a nail into the floor, if its coating is too hard or too fragile, then, of course, we use the methods described above: we nail a wooden plinth to the wall.

INSTALLING SKIRTING BOARDS ON FINISHING NAILS

You can attach the wooden baseboard with finishing nails. This installation is similar to installation with self-tapping screws, only finishing nails are used instead of the latter, and pieces of wood are used instead of dowels.

This type of fastening has both its advantages over other types and limitations. The advantage, of course, is the almost invisible attachment point. But nails are smooth, and some types of wood can become

crack. If the plinth is installed in a stressed state as a result uneven walls or floor, then there is a high probability that either nails or wooden dowels may not be able to withstand such a load.

There are also restrictions on installation with nails - for example, it is completely excluded if the walls are made of plasterboard or the walls are very loose. In both cases, a wooden dowel will not hold on such a surface.

Wood screws, which are often used today instead of nails, are in many cases more effective than nails. After all, the self-tapping screw is easily hidden in the baseboard, after which the hole is sealed with “liquid wood” type putty.

A LITTLE ABOUT DECORATING CRACKS

Gaps, often formed at the joints of two planks, as well as between the floor and the baseboard, or between the wall and the baseboard, can be decorated using colored putty and sealant to match the wood. How to do it?

Cover the surface that borders the gap (floor or wall) with paper tape, then apply the decorating compound, pressing it into the gap with a spatula. Remove the tape immediately - leaving it on for a few days will make it much harder to remove.

Among the many skirting boards, which differ in their design, color, shape, texture, there is a model with decorative insert in the middle, which serves not only for beauty, but also to hide the fasteners. After installation, a wooden insert is glued to the top of the recess.

The disadvantage of wooden floor plinths is that uneven surface it does not press tightly; a careful, careful adjustment is needed here: measuring, cutting and filing. After all, even if the floor is level, the wall is not always level. Often for this reason it is necessary to abandon wooden products and install plastic. Well, although the plastic fits almost perfectly, it is alien; it does not have the inanimate, life-giving energy that wood has.

AESTHETIC SIDE OF INSTALLATION OF WOODEN SKIRTING BOARDS

Not all wooden plinths and their cutting are subject to certain standards. For example, a wide wooden plinth will give your home more comfort due to the fact that it visually brings the floor closer. A white baseboard will highlight the cleanliness of the room. And it is not at all necessary that the color of the wooden baseboard matches the floor or walls. The play of color always gives a special charm to a room, which in a certain way affects a person, his attitude, energy, and psyche.

I would like to note that conifers wood, which is used to make skirting boards, will have a beneficial effect on our body. In our age of high percentages of allergic, cardiovascular and other diseases that often arise due to pollution environment, it's impossible to really breathe fresh air, because chemistry is present everywhere. All these factors speak in favor of only natural, environmentally friendly products and materials, one of which is wooden plinth.

Well, now we’ve had a rest and it’s time to get down to business again. It's time to take care of the baseboards. Skirting boards are, of course, a small thing, but you can't do without them; they make the interior more harmonious and complete. Nowadays, high painted baseboards are increasingly becoming a trend, so we wanted the same

What we wanted

Having monitored the market, disappointing points emerged: firstly, such a plinth is difficult to buy, and secondly, its price per meter depends on the height and starts from 400 rubles. In my opinion, this is very expensive for such a seemingly simple thing, so we decided to experiment - make it ourselves

It may seem crazy to someone to make a plinth themselves, but on the other hand, it’s just a board required height and width, well decorative element. The inspiration was these pictures from the web:

Another example

Well, it’s really nothing complicated?! Let's try...

...And we tried it almost 2 years ago, when we were doing renovations in the nursery, we were satisfied with the result, so we already knew how to implement this in the kitchen, we’ll tell you too))

We're going to the construction market

To make a high plinth, as mentioned above, you need boards and corners. We will only surround the visible parts of the wall with plinths (we are so lazy, or economical), our “perimeter” was 7.5 meters, in total we get:

Boards 24x120x2000 - 4 pieces, you need to choose carefully, because they are not all perfectly even and smooth;
Corner decorative rail 20x20x2200 - 4 pcs;

You will also need:

White acrylic enamel;
Brush;
Self-tapping screws;
Concealed nails
Plastic dowels;
Saw for miter box
Miter box, Sasha decided to please himself and bought the most expensive model;
Wood putty;
Skin;

Preparatory work

To begin with, all boards should lie indoors and “acclimatize,” ideally for a week. But we conveniently forgot about this rule)))

Fitting

We wanted white skirting boards, for this we need to paint them. You can paint after installation, but I find it more convenient to do it before.

The first layer was a primer - I diluted the paint 1:1

Water in paint raises the wood pile, so we sand it

When the board is smooth, you can start painting. I need to cover up the wood texture as much as possible, but maintain the relief. The basic rule of painting works here - several thin layers instead of one thick one. For the desired result I needed 3 layers.

I start from the ends

At the junction of layers

Next layer

There were difficulties with painting the corners, and they were generally not successful - there were a lot of knots and burrs. When priming, the paint clogged the relief, so after drying it took a long time to pick it out of the recesses. I decided to finish painting them after installation.

Installation

The next day, when the paint was dry, we began installation.

First we decided where the joints would be. Because our wall is 4.2 meters, and the boards are 2m, we decided whole board do it in the center of the wall, and on the sides there are 1.1 m boards.

I really, really regretted this - either the saw felt dull, or the board was very thick, in general it took 15-20 minutes to make one cut. But he did! It’s good that we only have 2 corners))

Angle at 45 0

Fitting to the wall

Sasha attached the boards with self-tapping screws: he marked where to cut 4-5 points on the board, then drilled thin guide holes. Having placed the board against the wall, I marked the holes on the wall through the holes in the board. I drilled holes in the wall with a hammer drill, hammered in dowels and screwed the boards to the wall.

Pilot hole

Hole for dowel

We attach it to the wall

Pinned

Because of the unevenness in the corner, the board did not want to fit against the wall; I had to trim the board a little along the contour of the unevenness. There's still a gap left, but it's okay, we'll fill it up.

Hewn plinth to match the wall relief

The gap is almost invisible

fasten it to the main wall directly with self-tapping screws without dowels

Work mess

When Sasha finished, I puttyed all the cracks, irregularities and screw heads, and then sanded off the excess and irregularities. Now it was the turn of the corners, we attached them to the finishing nails.

The corner is nailed to the board, you cannot nail it to the floor!

Many people around the world have encountered such happiness as repairs))). This word frightens some people to the point of horror, while others, on the contrary, really enjoy doing this work, learning and creating. Renovating an apartment or country house takes a huge amount of time, precious physical labor, and of course not a small amount of money from your family budget. Some people, in order not to deal with this long, tedious, and tedious task, hire a team of builders, and they short term do the work assigned to them. But accordingly, hiring this brigade is again a waste of your Money.

Not every person has the opportunity to hire a team of repairmen to help. So you have to ordinary people do all the hard work, and not light work themselves, without anyone's help. But this circumstance is only for the benefit of a person, his development, and hardening at work. By carrying out repairs on their own, a person learns a lot for himself, develops creatively, and as a creator.

Do-it-yourself repairs will be more valued than those done by a team of hired workers, because you will involuntarily respect your work.

The author conceived a renovation in his country house, decided not to hire a team, and to cope with this problem on my own, in order to save money for the sake of preserving family funds. Because in addition to expenses for repairmen, money is needed, and Construction Materials.

Building materials, on which the author also decided to save money and make some materials himself, using power tools available on our owner’s farm country house. He decides that he will make the skirting boards himself and will not buy this material in the store. If you look into it in detail, it’s not that difficult, and it’s difficult if you have the appropriate tool. He takes the boards he has, 25 mm thick and 2000 mm long, sawing them lengthwise, cutting them into 50 mm wide slats. Then it is passed through with a cutter and a cable machine.

And so now let's look in detail at what the author needed to make a homemade plinth, and how he did it.

Materials: board 2000 mm long and 25 mm thick, paint.
Tools: electric planer, milling cutter, cable machine, Circular Saw, brush.

First, I assembled the tool so that everything was at hand, and I didn’t have to look for anything later.

Gives a drawing of the future plinth.

Next he takes a circular saw.

Use a ruler to set the width for sawing the workpiece, and also set the angle of the saw to 10 degrees to create a bevel.

And he loosens the boards onto slats.

Next, the resulting workpieces are processed with an electric planer.

The edges of the workpieces are passed through with a milling cutter.

And accordingly, he performs the work with a cable machine in order to remove all roughness and unevenness.

And so he came up with such a wonderful plinth.

Next, I painted my product, and this is what happened.

Installation of the plinth is the final stage of finishing the floor. Accordingly, it is worth producing it only after completion Finishing work walls and flooring installation. You can lay the baseboard yourself, without resorting to the help of outside specialists.

To begin with, it should be noted that skirting boards can be made of wood or plastic. Moreover, the latter are slowly replacing environmentally pure wood On the market finishing materials. Since plastic is more popular, we will first consider methods for installing just such products.

The plastic plinth strip consists of two parts. So to speak, lower and upper (front). Before installation begins, these two parts are separated, and preparatory work carried out using only the lower part.

Stage 1: purchasing material

First of all, you need to measure the length of all the walls in the room where you plan to install the baseboard. To the resulting number, you should add one and a half to two meters “in reserve”, and then divide it all by 2.5. This will give you the number of planks you need to buy. They divide by 2.5 because that is exactly how much (in meters) is the standard length of one plinth strip.

In addition, you will need connecting elements, corners and plugs. They (stubs), by the way, come in right and left. This should also be taken into account when calculating the required number.

Stage 2: preparing tools

To work you will need:

Miter box
Fine-tooth hacksaw
Drill or hammer drill
Screws and dowels

Stage 3: cutting the baseboard

In order to cut the baseboard under the right angle you need to use a miter box - special device, greatly facilitating this difficult process. It should be used in the following way: place the plinth panel so that the side that will be in contact with the floor after installation is pressed against the wall of the miter box, and the side that will be in contact with the wall lies on the base of the miter box. After you place the plinth on it in this way, using a hacksaw you need to cut off the desired part, focusing on the slots on the miter box. The next panel is cut in exactly the same way, only in a mirror image.

Stage 4: marking

The plinth should be laid from the corner adjacent to the long wall premises.

We put a corner on the plinth and apply it to the wall. At a distance of 5-7 centimeters from the corner, make a mark (with a pencil) for the first hole. We make the remaining marks every 40 centimeters. If the wall is uneven, then you should make a mark 5-10 centimeters before the place where the baseboard forms a gap with the wall. Thus, you need to mark the entire perimeter of the room.

Stage 5: installation

Next, we take a drill and drill holes in the wall through the lower part of the baseboard with which we are working, according to the pre-made marks. After this, we remove the product from the wall, use a vacuum cleaner to collect the resulting dust (and in the holes too), and insert dowels into the resulting holes.

We apply the baseboard again. And using a drill in screwdriver mode, we fasten its lower part with screws to a previously prepared place. All. All that remains is to install the upper half of the plinth in its rightful place. By the way, you can run one or several cables under it (depending on the model of the baseboard). For this purpose, special cable channels are provided.

Features of laying wooden plinths

The installation of such a plinth has its own peculiarities.

Fit

No corners are used with wooden baseboards. Therefore, the process of adjusting the plinth at the corners becomes more labor-intensive. Since the corners in our apartments quite rarely have perfect 90 degrees, after trimming wooden product on a miter box, you need to manually adjust it to the features of your specific room. It’s still not possible to achieve a perfect fit, so we recommend using colored sealants and putties to match the wood.

Marking and installation

Marking is done in the same way as when working with plastic skirting boards. But then you need to perform slightly different actions.

According to the markings, screw the screws into the baseboard until they appear on the back side. Then press the baseboard tightly against the wall until marks from these same screws appear on it. Next, you need to mark these marks with a pencil and drill holes along them in the wall. After this, all that remains is to insert the dowels into the holes, install the plinth in its rightful place and tighten the screws until the end.
Preference should be given to self-tapping screws with the smallest head diameter and the longest possible length. Since the fasteners will be visible in any case, it is worth making them at the same distance from each other. This way they will at least look harmonious.
You can use finishing nails instead of self-tapping screws. In this case, the dowels must be wooden. Such nails are almost invisible in the fastening areas, but they have limitations in use. In walls made of plasterboard or loose concrete, wooden dowels simply will not hold.

Wood is rightfully classic material for finishing the room. First of all, it is valued for its environmental friendliness and high mechanical strength. Wooden skirting boards perfectly complement the parquet floor, harmonizing with it. There are a large number of purchased wooden skirting boards. Self-production skirting boards will not only save money, but also open up options for choice optimal shape and baseboard colors. We will learn further about how to make a wooden plinth yourself.

Wooden floor plinth: advantages, features and characteristics

White wooden plinth is installed preferably in dry rooms, such as a bedroom, living room, and children's room. They are installed on wooden or parquet floors. Among the advantages of such skirting boards are noted:

environmental safety;

naturalness;

attractive appearance;

high strength.

There are two main options for wooden skirting boards:

massive;

veneered.

The first option is more expensive. For its production, valuable types of wood are used in the form of oak, beech, cherry, and alder. Cheaper models are made from pine or spruce wood. This plinth is suitable for expensive flooring. It is characterized by a long service life, resistance to mechanical damage, labor-intensive installation, and high cost.

Veneered version of the plinth is more cheap option. Pine or spruce wood is used to make it. Valuable breeds trees are placed on top of the base. By appearance The plinth is identical to the massive one, however, the performance characteristics are at a lower level.

Another option for wooden plinths is flexible plinths. The basis for the construction of the plinth is ash, oak, beech and other hard woods. Special technology wood processing allows you to obtain elastic properties. To store such a plinth, special packaging is required; the interaction of the plinth with air leads to its solidification in a certain shape.

The pricing policy for wooden skirting boards is determined by the type of wood used in the process of their manufacture. The cheapest options are pine skirting boards, and the most expensive are oak. The best option- larch, wood has excellent performance characteristics, almost the same as oak, however, the cost of such a plinth is not much higher than that of pine.

After installing wooden skirting boards, they must be coated with varnish that provides additional protection coatings from moisture, temperature changes and other factors.

In addition, there are a huge number of types of skirting boards in relation to their shape. The most popular skirting boards have a triangular cut. With the help of modern woodworking equipment, it is possible to create models of skirting boards with a variety of cutouts and patterns.

Standard plinths have a base height of 1-2.5 cm. The height of the plinths themselves is not limited and ranges from 4 to 30 cm. When choosing the size of the plinth, you need to take into account the height of the ceiling in the room. High skirting boards are suitable for rooms with high ceilings.

The classic solution is to make a plinth from the same type of wood from which the floor is constructed. However, with the help of modern devices it is possible to successfully combine several types of wood.

Coniferous trees are used to make cheap skirting boards. Most often, pine is used as a material. Soft wood is easy to process and cut. Due to the presence of a light texture, the plinth easily accepts any coloring composition. Spruce skirting boards are rare, as this material is difficult to process.

Skirting boards made from larch are the most popular due to their successful combination pricing policy And quality characteristics. This material It resists moisture well, does not rot and is used even in the kitchen and bathroom.

Wooden oak skirting boards - luxury options. They have unique strength and the highest durability. Using plinths made of bleached or artificially aged oak allows you to give the room sophistication and solidity.

Beech has the same performance characteristics as oak, but differs in color. Beech plinth has a pinkish texture, which does not suit every interior.

If you want to have a pleasant Brown color, we recommend making your own plinth from walnut. This type of wood has special elasticity and is suitable for making flexible plinths. It is this type of plinth that will allow you to decorate walls with unusual shapes. The nut contains iodine, which has a beneficial effect on the atmosphere in the room, making it healthier.

The light color of olive can be obtained from ash. This type of wood, like walnut, has high plasticity, the texture of the wood is clear and has veins.

The original coloring of mahogany makes it popular in the manufacture of skirting boards. In addition, the array is durable and lightweight. Although the cost of such wood is quite high compared to all of the above options.

Linden is best suited for making bath skirting boards, as it is characterized by good plasticity and resistance to moisture. Cherries are also very popular. However, its only advantage is the gradual change of color during use.

Please note that when choosing a baseboard without varnish coating, after treating it with a varnish composition, it will change color. This fact should be taken into account. If you are going to open the baseboard with colorless varnish, then in order to find out what color the baseboard will acquire, wet it with water.

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